Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/51—Chelating agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
  • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

• the present disclosure relates to an agent in two parts, for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibers, including human keratin fibers such as the hair.
• one aspect of the present disclosure is an agent for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibers, formed from a first composition (A) containing at least one basifying agent and optionally at least one dye, and a second composition (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent, at least one of the compositions (A) and (B) comprising at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups, and at least one specific sequestrant.
• the present disclosure also relates to a multi-compartment device or kit containing the dyeing and/or bleaching agent according to the disclosure.
• Another aspect of the present disclosure is a process for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibers, using the agent according to the disclosure.
• the first type of dyeing is “permanent” or oxidation dyeing, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
• the second type of dyeing is “semi-permanent” dyeing or direct dyeing.
• the process includes applying to keratin fibers direct dyes, which are colored and coloring molecules having affinity to the fibers, leaving them on for a period of time, and then rinsing said dyes off.
• the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes.
• This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent to develop the coloration. However, it is possible to use such an agent in order to obtain a lightening effect with the coloration. This is then referred to as direct or semi-permanent dyeing under lightening conditions.
• Permanent or semi-permanent dyeing processes under lightening conditions using the dye composition usually include, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions.
• the conventional processes for bleaching human keratin fibers include using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent under generally alkaline pH conditions.
• the role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of the hair, which can lead to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present.
• the oxidizing agent can be hydrogen peroxide.
• peroxygenated salts for instance persulfates, can be used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.
• One aspect of the present disclosure is thus an agent for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibers, consisting of:
• compositions (A) and (B) comprising at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups, the total amount of the at least one fatty substance in the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) representing at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, and
• compositions (A) and (B) comprising at least one sequestrant of formula (I):
• composition (A) also comprises at least one oxidation dye and/or at least one direct dye.
• compositions (A) and (B) do not comprise any direct dyes or any oxidation dyes (bases and couplers), or if any direct dyes or oxidation dyes are present, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of each composition. At such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i.e. no coloring effect would be observed on the keratin fibers.
• the dyeing and/or bleaching agent according to the present disclosure does not change or changes little over time during the mixing of the compositions (A) and (B), or during the sequential application of these two compositions to the keratin fibers. It thus demonstrates the ease of application, good efficacy, and the quality and homogeneity of the dyeing and/or bleaching.
• the agent according to the disclosure when intended for dyeing, it also may be efficient in at least one of the resulting dyeing capacity, the capacity of the chromaticity, and the selectivity of dyeing of the same fiber or between differently sensitized fibers.
• the agent according to the disclosure when intended for bleaching, it can demonstrate lightening capacity greater than or equivalent to those obtained with the existing compositions, for example, those based on ammonium hydroxide.
• the agent according to the disclosure may also have the benefit of limiting the aggressive odors during the preparation thereof or the application thereof to the fibers.
• the human keratin fibers treated via the process according to the disclosure are, for example, hair.
• composition (A) comprises at least one basifying agent.
• basic agent means any compound which, via its presence in composition (A), increases the pH of this composition by at least 0.05 pH unit, such as at least 0.1 pH unit.
• the basifying agent can be, for example, be a mineral or organic base.
• the basifying agent can be chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula (II):
• W is a C 1 -C 6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical;
• Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 6 aminoalkyl radical.
• Examples of compounds of formula (II) that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
• the basifying agents can be alkanolamines, for example, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, such as monoethanolamine.
• composition (A) comprises a basifying agent chosen from at least one organic amine, such as at least one alkanolamine.
• composition (A) contains several basifying agents, such as an alkanolamine and aqueous ammonia or a salt thereof, wherein the organic amine(s) are, for example, in weight majority relative to the amount of ammonia present in composition (A).
• composition (A) does not contain any aqueous ammonia.
• composition (A) comprises aqueous ammonia or a salt thereof, and at least one alkanolamine, wherein the weight amount of alkanolamine(s) in composition (A) is greater than the weight amount of ammonia in this same composition.
• Composition (A) has a content of basifying agent(s) ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, for example, from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of this composition.
• composition (A) has a pH greater than or equal to 8, for example, a pH ranging from 8.5 to 11.5.
• This pH may also be adjusted to the desired value by using, for example, in addition to the basifying agent, at least one acidifying agent.
• examples include, but are not limited to mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
• composition (B) comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
• the at least one oxidizing agent may be chosen from the oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, and peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium, potassium or magnesium.
• At least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase), optionally in the presence of the respective donor or cofactor thereof, may also be used as oxidizing agent.
• the at least one oxidizing agent can be hydrogen peroxide. It may be for example, used as an aqueous solution (aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution) of which the concentration may vary from 0.1% to 50% by weight, for example, from 0.5% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
• aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution of which the concentration may vary from 0.1% to 50% by weight, for example, from 0.5% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
• the oxidizing agent may also comprise at least one compound, such as peroxygenated salts.
• the pH of composition (B) is less than 7.
• This pH may be adjusted to the desired value by using at least one acidifying agent, which may be chosen from those described previously.
• compositions (A) and (B) comprise at least one sequestrant of formula (I) as defined above.
• M1, M2, M3 and M4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a cation derived from an alkali metal or from an alkaline-earth metal, a cation derived from an optionally hydroxylated organic amine, or an ammonium cation.
• alkali metal cations include, but are not limited to, sodium (Na + ) and potassium (K + );
• alkaline-earth metal cations include, but are not limited to, calcium (Ca 2+ ) and magnesium (Mg 2+ ).
• Examples of the cations of organic amines include, but are not limited to, the cations of primary, secondary or tertiary amines, or alkanolamines.
• the amines can contain at least one radical, which may be identical or different, of linear or branched C 1 to C 20 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl type.
• M1, M2, M3 and M4 are identical, and denote a sodium cation or a potassium cation.
• the sequestrants are, for example,
• the salts of these two compounds are, for example, the salts of alkali metals, such as the sodium or potassium salts.
• the at least one sequestrant may be present in composition (A) or in composition (B), or in both these compositions.
• composition (A) comprises at least one sequestrant.
• the at least one sequestrant is present only in composition (A).
• the total amount of the at least one sequestrant of formula (I) in acid form in the mixture of these compositions ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, for example, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, such as from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B). These weight percentages are expressed relative to the acid form of the compound(s) of formula (I).
• At least one of the compositions (A) and (B) comprises at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups, the total amount of such fatty substances in the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) representing at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of these two compositions (A) and (B).
• the at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups may be present in composition (A) or composition (B), or in both the compositions, provided that the total amount of the at least one fatty substance in the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) is at least equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B).
• the total amount of the at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups in the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) represents at least 25% by weight, such as at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.
• the total amount of fatty substances not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups in the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) is, for example, less than or equal to 90% by weight, such as less than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B).
• composition (A) comprises at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups.
• the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. which has a weight solubility in water of less than 5%, for example, less than 1%, such as less than 0.1%.
• the fatty substances contain in their structure at least one sequence of at least two siloxane groups or a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
• the fatty substances can be soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
• the at least one fatty substance containing at least one terminal carboxylic acid functional group such as fatty acids, which exhibits a certain level of solubility in water, for example, in alkaline medium, are excluded.
• the term “fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups” means a fatty substance not containing any groups —COOH or any groups —COO ⁇ .
• the at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, for example, liquid compounds.
• the at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups are, for example, chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of mineral, plant, animal and synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, and non-silicone waxes and silicones.
• the fatty alcohols and fatty acids contain, for example, at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted with, for example, at least one hydroxyl group (for example, 1 to 4 hydroxyl group). If the fatty alcohols and fatty acids are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
• C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes they are linear or branched, or possibly cyclic. Examples include, but are not limited to, hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
• oils of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin that may be used in the composition of the disclosure, examples include, but are not limited to:
• the fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the disclosure are, for example, chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• Examples include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.
• esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol they can be different from the triglycerides mentioned above; for example, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, wherein the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
• example include, but are not limited to, dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl
• Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
• the esters include, but are not limited to, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; g
• the esters can be ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
• composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and for example C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
• sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and for example C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
• sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and for example C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
• sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
• suitable sugars include, but are not limited to, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, for example, alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
• the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and for example C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
• esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
• esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
• monoesters and diesters for example, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
• the product sold under the name GLUCATE® by the company Amerchol is a methylglucose dioleate.
• esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid include, but are not limited to:
• the non-silicone wax(es) are chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the disclosure are, for example, marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins in general.
• the silicones that may be used as fatty substances are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25° C., for example, from 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
• the silicones that may be used in accordance with the disclosure may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
• the silicone can be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
• organopolysiloxanes are described in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
• the silicones are, for example, chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60° C. to 260° C., for example:
• cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and such as 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
• cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and such as 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
• octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by Union Carbide or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by Rhodia
• decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by Union Carbide
• SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by Rhodia
• cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type include, but are not limited to, VOLATILE SILICONE® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
• mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds include, but are not limited to, the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
• linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s at 25° C.
• An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in Todd & Byers “ Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .” Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32,
• non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof can be used.
• silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
• the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
• CFA dimethiconol
• polydialkylsiloxanes In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C 1 -C 20 )dialkylsiloxanes.
• the silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the disclosure are, for example, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular masses ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, or mixtures thereof in a solvent.
• This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, poly-phenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
• organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the disclosure are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R 2 SiO 2/2 ,R 3 SiO 1/2 ,RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2
• R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms, for example, a C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl radical, such as methyl.
• examples include, the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.
• Examples also include, but are not limited to, the trimethyl siloxysilicate type resins sold, for example, under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
• organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the disclosure are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure at least one organofunctional group attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
• the organomodified silicones can be, but not limited to, polydiarylsiloxanes, for example, polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
• the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 5 to 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 2 m 2 /s at 25° C.
• organomodified silicones examples include polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
• the at least one fatty substance does not comprise any oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.
• the at least one fatty substance not containing any carboxylic acid functional groups can be chosen, for example, from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters and silicones.
• the at least one fatty substance of the composition according to the disclosure is non-silicone.
• the at least one fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and liquid esters of fatty acids and liquid esters of fatty alcohols, for example, liquid petroleum jelly.
• compositions (A) and/or (B) according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one surfactant.
• the at least one surfactant can be chosen from, for example, nonionic surfactants and from anionic surfactants.
• the anionic surfactants can be chosen from the salts (for example, alkali metal salts, such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts) of the following compounds:
• the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds can contain from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical denotes, for example, a phenyl or benzyl group.
• the nonionic surfactants can be chosen from, for example, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants different from the abovementioned nonionic surfactants, or from monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
• the oxyalkylene units are, for example, oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, such as oxyethylene units.
• oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
• surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ranging from 1 to 100, for example, from 2 to 50. In at least one embodiment, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
• the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols, and polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acids and of sorbitol.
• monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, monoglycerolated and polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols.
• the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols can be chosen from those of the following formula: RO—[CH 2 —CH(CH 2 OH)—O] m —H,
• R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 , such as, C 8 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, such as from 1 to 10.
• lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
• the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same respect that the value of m represents a statistical value. It means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
• Non-limiting examples of the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols are the C 8 /C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C 10 /C 12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
• the agent comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
• composition (A) comprises at least one surfactant.
• the surfactant(s) may be present in proportions ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, for example, from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition in which they are contained.
• Compositions (A) and/or (B) according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one mineral thickener chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof.
• the organophilic clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof, for example, a bentonite or a hectorite.
• These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
• Organophilic clays that may be mentioned, for example, include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names BENTONE 3, BENTONE 38 and BENTONE 38V by the company Rheox, TIXOGEL VP by the company United Catalyst, CLAYTONE 34, CLAYTONE 40 and CLAYTONE XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names BENTONE 27 by the company Rheox, TIXOGEL LG by the company United Catalyst and CLAYTONE AF and CLAYTONE APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names CLAYTONE HT and CLAYTONE PS by the company Southern Clay.
• quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names BENTONE 3, BENTONE 38 and BENTONE 38V by the company Rheox, TIXOGEL VP by the company United Catalyst, CLAYTONE
• the fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxhydric flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible to, for example, obtain hydrophilic silicas having a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
• hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names AEROSIL 130®, AEROSIL 200®, AEROSIL 255®, AEROSIL 300® and AEROSIL 380® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL HS-5®, CAB-O-SIL EH-5®, CAB-O-SIL LM-130®, CAB-O-SIL MS-55® and CAB-O-SIL M-5® by the company Cabot.
• silanol groups it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the said silica, via a chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups.
• a chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups.
• hydrophobic groups can be:
• the fumed silica may have, for example a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
• the mineral thickeners are chosen from hectorites, organomodified bentonites and optionally modified fumed silicas.
• the mineral thickener represents from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition in which it is present.
• compositions (A) and/or (B) according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one organic thickener.
• thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ether), polymeric thickeners such as cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic regions and fatty-chain hydrophobic regions (alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 10 carbon atoms) that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules).
• fatty acid amides coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ether
• the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers, for example, cellulose-based thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose.
• cellulose-based thickeners hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose
• guar gum and derivatives thereof hydroxypropyl guar
• gums of microbial origin xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum
• acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers for example, cellulose-based thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose.
• the content of organic thickener(s), if present, can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, for example, from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of each composition in which they are present.
• composition (A) is in the form of a gel or a cream.
• composition (B) is in the form of a solution, an emulsion or a gel.
• composition (A) also comprises at least one oxidation dye.
• the agent according to the disclosure can be used for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers.
• composition (A) may also comprise at least one direct dye.
• composition (A) also comprises at least one direct dye.
• composition (A) does not comprise any oxidation dyes
• the agent according to the disclosure can be used for the lightening direct dyeing of keratin fibers.
• the at least one oxidation dye that may be used in the present disclosure can be chosen from oxidation bases, optionally combined with at least one coupler.
• the oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
• para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylene-diamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)
• para-phenylenediamine para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2- ⁇ -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, may be further mentioned.
• bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N′-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N′-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)-tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diamino-phenoxy
• para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
• para-aminophenol 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( ⁇ -hydroxyethyla
• ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
• heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
• pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
• pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present disclosure are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
• Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyr
• pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2 359 399; JP 2526099; JP 05-63124; EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, for instance 2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
• pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3 843 892 and DE 4 133 957, and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for example, 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-dia
• 4,5-Diamino-1-( ⁇ -methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used, for example, in at least one embodiment, 4,5-diaminopyrazole, such as 4,5-diamino-1-( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof is used.
• Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include, but are not limited to, diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones, for example, those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di
• heterocyclic bases include, but are not limited to, 4,5-Diamino-1-( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof.
• the couplers that may be used in the present disclosure may be chosen from those used for the dyeing of keratin fibers.
• Example of such include, but are not limited to, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diamino-phenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, ⁇ -naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino
• addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that may be used in the context of the disclosure can be chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
• an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
• the at least one oxidation base may each represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), such as from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
• the at least one coupler may each represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), such as from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the agent.
• the at least one direct dye that may be used in composition (A) can be chosen from ionic and nonionic species, such as cationic or nonionic species.
• direct dyes suitable for use include, but are not limited to, azo, methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro (hetero)aryl; tri(hetero)arylmethane, porphyrin, phthalocyanin direct dyes, and natural direct dyes, or mixtures thereof.
• the azo dyes comprise an —N ⁇ N— function, the two nitrogen atoms of which are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded for one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence —N ⁇ N— to be engaged in a ring.
• the dyes of the methine family can be compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C ⁇ C ⁇ and —N ⁇ C ⁇ , the two atoms of which are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences may be engaged in a ring.
• the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as methines, azomethines, mono- and diarylmethanes, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanins, azacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanins and hemicyanins.
• dyes of the carbonyl family examples include, but are not limited to, dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.
• dyes chosen from acridone benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthro
• dyes of the cyclic azine family non-limiting mention may be made of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine and pyronin.
• nitro (hetero)aromatic dyes examples include, but are not limited to, nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
• examples include, but are not limited to, cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising at least one metal or metal ion, such as alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
• Suitable direct dyes include, but are not limited to, nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes, azomethine direct dyes, methine direct dyes, azacarbocyanin direct dyes such as tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines), quinone such as anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes, azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indoamine, indigoid, phthalocyanin direct dyes, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, or mixtures thereof.
• nitrobenzene dyes azo direct dyes, azomethine direct dyes, methine direct dyes, azacarbocyanin direct dyes such as tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines), quinone such as anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone
• dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (i.e. comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric such as di- or trichromophoric; the chromophores possibly being identical or different, and from the same chemical family or otherwise.
• a polychromophoric dye comprises several radicals each derived from a molecule that absorbs in the visible region between 400 and 800 nm. Furthermore, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or combination with any other chemical species.
• the chromophores are connected together via at least one linker, which may be cationic or non-cationic.
• the linker is a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen or oxygen) and/or with at least one group comprising such an atom (CO, SO 2 ), optionally interrupted with at least one heterocycle that may or may not be fused to a phenyl nucleus and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted with at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C 1 -C 15 alkyl groups; the linker not comprising any nitro, nitroso or peroxy groups.
• the linker not comprising any nitro, nitroso or peroxy groups.
• heterocycles or aromatic nuclei are substituted, for example, with at least one C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino, or amino group substituted with one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, or the two radicals possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different than nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C 1 -C 2 alkoxy radical; a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.
• benzenic direct dyes that may be used according to the disclosure, mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of the following compounds:
• azo, azomethine, methine and tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the disclosure
• dyes of formulae (I) to (IV), for example, the compounds of formulae (I) and (III), are used:
• D represents a nitrogen atom or a —CH group
• R 1 and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted with a —CN, —OH or —NH 2 radical, or form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, a heterocycle optionally containing oxygen or nitrogen, which may be substituted with at least one C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; a 4′-aminophenyl radical,
• R 3 and R′ 3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, or a cyano, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or acetyloxy radical,
• X ⁇ represents an anion for example chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
• A represents a group chosen from structures A1 to A18, for example, A1, A4, A7, A13 and A18, below:
• R 4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted with a hydroxyl radical and R 5 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical;
• R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
• R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which may be substituted with a —CN radical or with an amino group, a 4′-aminophenyl radical, or forms with R 6 a heterocycle optionally containing oxygen and/or nitrogen, which may be substituted with a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
• R 8 and R 9 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or a —CN radical,
• X ⁇ represents an anion for example chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
• B represents a group chosen from structures B1 to B6 below:
• R 10 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
• R 11 and R 12 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
• R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, or an amino radical,
• R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, a heterocycle optionally containing oxygen and/or substituted with at least one C 1 -C 4 alkyl group,
• R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
• R 16 and R 17 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
• D 1 and D 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a —CH group
• X ⁇ represents an anion for example chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
• E represents a group chosen from structures E1 to E8, for example, E1, E2 and E7, below:
• R′ represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
• E may also denote a group of structure E9 below:
• G represents a group chosen from the structures G 1 to G 3 below:
• R 18 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical which may be substituted with a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine;
• R 19 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical
• R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical, or form together in G 1 a benzene ring substituted with at least one C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or NO 2 radical, or form together in G 2 a benzene ring optionally substituted with at least one C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or NO 2 radical;
• R 20 may also denote a hydrogen atom
• Z represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group —NR 19 ;
• M represents a group —CH, —CR (R denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl) or —NR 22 (X ⁇ ) r ;
• K represents a group —CH, —CR (R denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl) or —NR 22 (X ⁇ ) r ;
• P represents a group —CH, —CR (R denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl) or —NR 22 (X ⁇ ) r ;
• r denotes 0 or 1
• R 22 represents an O ⁇ atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
• R 23 and R 24 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or an —NO 2 radical;
• X ⁇ represents an anion for example chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate;
• R 23 or R 24 is for example different than a hydrogen atom
• R 20 is other than a hydrogen atom
• At least one of the radicals R 18 , R 20 or R 21 of the group of structure G 2 is other than a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;
• R 25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, an —OH, —NO 2 , —NHR 28 , —NR 29 R 30 or C 1 -C 4 —NHCOalkyl radical, or forms with R 26 a 5- or 6-membered ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom chosen from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur;
• R 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or forms with R 27 or R 28 a 5- or 6-membered ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom chosen from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur;
• R 27 represents a hydrogen atom, an —OH radical, a radical —NHR 28 or a radical —NR 29 R 30 ;
• R 28 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical or a phenyl radical;
• R 29 and R 30 which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 monohydroxyalkyl or C 2 -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical;
• R 31 and R 32 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical;
• Y denotes a —CO— radical or a
• n 0 or 1
• U denoting a —CO— radical
• the structures of dyes (I) to (IV) defined above are such that the C 1 -C 4 alkyl or alkoxy group denotes methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy or ethoxy.
• azo direct dyes that may also be mentioned are the following dyes described in the Color Index International, 3rd edition:
• the disclosure is directed to 1-(4′-amino-diphenylazo)-2-methyl-4-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene.
• quinone direct dyes examples include, but are not limited to:
• azine dyes include, but are not limited to, the following compounds:
• triarylmethane dyes include, but are not limited to, the following compounds:
• indoamine dyes include, but are not limited to, the following compounds:
• dyes of tetraazapentamethine type include, but are not limited to, the compounds in the table below:
• X ⁇ represents an anion for example chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate.
• polychromophoric dyes include, but are not limited to, symmetrical or non-symmetrical azo and/or azomethine (hydrazone) di- or trichromophoric dyes comprising, (I) at least one optionally fused 5- or 6-membered aromatic heterocycle, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur or oxygen), and, (II) at least one optionally substituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally bearing at least one group OR with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, an optionally substituted phenyl nucleus, or at least one group N(R′) 2 with R′, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical or an optionally substituted phenyl nucleus; the radicals R′ possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom to
• aromatic cationic heterocycles include, but are not limited to, 5- or 6-membered rings containing 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms such as 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle moreover being optionally fused to a benzene nucleus.
• the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom other than nitrogen, for instance sulfur or oxygen.
• heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, for example, with at least one C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group substituted with one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, or the two radicals possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different than nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C 1 -C 2 alkoxy radical; a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.
• polychromophores can be connected together via at least one linker optionally comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom that may or may not be engaged in a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic heterocycle.
• the linker can be a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen or oxygen) and/or with at least one group comprising such a heteroatom (CO or SO 2 ), optionally interrupted with at least one heterocycle that may or may not be fused to a phenyl nucleus and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted with at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C 1 -C 15 alkyl groups; the linker not comprising any nitro, nitroso or peroxy groups.
• the linker not comprising any nitro, nitroso or peroxy groups.
• the bonding between the linker and each chromophore can take place via a heteroatom substituent on the phenyl or naphthyl nucleus or via the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.
• the dye may comprise identical or different chromophores.
• non-limiting reference may be made to patent applications EP 1 637 566, EP 1 619 221, EP 1 634 926, EP 1 619 220, EP 1 672 033, EP 1 671 954, EP 1 671 955, EP 1 679 312, EP 1 671 951, EP 167 952, EP 167 971, WO 06/063 866, WO 06/063 867, WO 06/063 868, WO 06/063 869, EP 1 408 919, EP 1 377 264, EP 1 377 262, EP 1 377 261, EP 1 377 263, EP 1 399 425, EP 1 399 117, EP 1 416 909, EP 1 399 116 and EP 1 671 560.
• EP 1 006 153 which describes dyes comprising two chromophores of anthraquinone type connected via a linker of cationic type
• EP 1 433 472, EP 1 433 474, EP 1 433 471 and EP 1 433 473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected via a cationic or non-cationic linker
• EP 6 291 333 which describes dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore, to which are attached two chromophores of azo or diazacarbocyanin type or an isomer thereof.
• natural direct dyes examples include, but are not limited to, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, such as henna-based poultices or extracts.
• the direct dye(s) represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, for example, from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
• compositions (A) and (B) do not comprise any direct dyes or any oxidation dyes (bases and couplers), or if the direct dyes or oxidation dyes are present, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
• the agent according to the disclosure is used for bleaching keratin fibers.
• composition (A) may comprise at least one solid or pasty adjuvant, which is pulverulent.
• the adjuvant may then be chosen from clays, salts other than ammonium salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, optionally modified starch, glass beads, silica, Nylon, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, monosaccharides or disaccharides, for instance glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, silica beads, talc, borosilicates, for example, of calcium, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and derivatives thereof, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, sawdust, fucus
• compositions (A) and (B) are formulated in a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising water and/or at least one organic solvent.
• organic solvents include, but are not limited to, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
• linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
• glycerol polyols and polyol ethers
• 2-butoxyethanol propylene glycol
• dipropylene glycol propylene glycol monomethyl ether
• diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether
• aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxy
• Such organic solvent(s) may be present in proportions ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, for example, from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition in which they are contained.
• compositions (A) and (B) comprise water.
• each of the compositions (A) and (B) comprises at least 5% by weight of water, such as at least 10% by weight of water, or at least 20% by weight of water relative to its total weight.
• compositions (A) and/or (B) according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one adjuvant, chosen from those conventionally used in compositions for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibers, such as conditioning polymers, for example, cationic conditioning polymers; mineral thickeners, and fillers such as clays or talc; organic thickeners, anionic, cationic and nonionic polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants other than those of formula (I) above; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; or opacifiers.
• conditioning polymers for example, cationic conditioning polymers
• organic thickeners, anionic, cationic and nonionic polymeric associative thickeners such as clays or talc
• organic thickeners, anionic, cationic and nonionic polymeric associative thickeners such as clays or talc
• the adjuvant(s) may be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
• composition (A) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (known as a direct emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (known as an inverse emulsion).
• the present disclosure also relates to a process for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising applying to the fibers the agent as described above.
• the agent applied to the keratin fibers results from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B), this mixing being performed either before application to the keratin fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on the keratin fibers (successive application to the fibers of compositions (A) and (B) without intermediate rinsing).
• the process according to the disclosure comprises applying compositions (A), and then (B) successively and without intermediate rinsing to wet or dry fibers.
• the process according to the disclosure comprises, mixing extemporaneously compositions (A) and (B) to form an agent, and applying the agent to wet or dry keratin fibers.
• the time between the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) and the application of the mixture to the hair does not exceed, for example, 30 minutes, such as 10 minutes, or 5 minutes.
• the weight ratio of the amount of composition (A) used to the amount of composition (B) used may range from 0.2 to 3 and for example from 0.3 to 1.
• compositions (A) and (B), or from the successive application of these compositions is left in place for a period of time, for example, ranging from about 1 minute to 1 hour, such as from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
• the temperature during the process can range from room temperature (e.g. from 15 to 25° C.) to 80° C., for example, from room temperature to 60° C.
• the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
• An aspect of the disclosure is directed to a multi-compartment dyeing and/or bleaching device or “kit”, formed from a first compartment containing composition (A) and a second compartment containing composition (B), compositions (A) and (B) being as described above.
• This device or kit may be equipped with an applicator for dispensing the desired mixture on the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR 2 586 913.
• This device may be accompanied by at least one composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, which is intended to be applied before or after the dyeing and/or bleaching treatment according to the disclosure.
• Composition A1 Liquid petroleum jelly 55 55 Octyldodecanol 10 10 Distearyldimethylammonium-modified hectorite 1.5 1.5 Propylene carbonate 0.5 0.5 Oleyl alcohol 10 OE 5 5 Propylene glycol 2 2 Ethanol 2.5 2.5 Hexylene glycol 1 1 Dipropylene glycol 1 1 Monoethanolamine 4.5 4.5 POE/POP/POE (Poloxamer 184) 9 9 Ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25 Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, penta- — 1.0 sodium salt, as an aqueous 40% solution para-Phenylenediamine 0.03 0.03 Resorcinol 0.04 0.04 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.002 0.002 1- ⁇ -Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 0.0003 0.0003 dihydrochloride N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine 0.000
• composition A2 corresponds to a composition (A) in accordance with the present disclosure, whereas composition A1 is a comparative composition not containing any compound of formula (I).
• Composition B Aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide at 50% by 12 weight Sodium stannate 0.04 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.03 Liquid petroleum jelly 20 Aqueous solution at 40% by weight of 0.1 tetramethylhexamethylenediamine/1,3-dichloro- propylene or Hexadimethrine chloride Non-stabilized aqueous solution at 40% by weight of 0.2 polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride or Polyquaternium-6 Glycerol 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 8 Oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol (33 OE) 3 Oxyethylenated rapeseed acid amide (4 OE) 1.2 Vitamin E: DL- ⁇ -tocopherol 0.1 Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2 Water qs 100
• compositions described above were mixed at the time of use in the following manner:
• compositions A2 and B did not show any untimely swelling over time, unlike the mixture of compositions A1 and B.
• compositions A2 and B When applied to the hair, the mixture resulting from compositions A2 and B also gave very uniform dyeing results.

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• 2009
  • 2009-12-22 FR FR0959433A patent/FR2954127B1/fr active Active
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