US375219A - Bifurcated garment - Google Patents

Description

(No Moda.)

J. STIEFEL.

BIFURGATBD GARMBNT.

Patented Deo. 20, 1887.

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N. PETERS, FholvLhhcgmphnr, Washington, D4 C.

i UNITED STATES PATENT GEEICE.

JULIUS STIEFEL, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

BAIFURCATED GARNI ENT.

SPECIFICATION forming partei' Letters Patent No. 375,219, dated December 20, 1887.

' Application filed O.tober i, i887. Serial No. 251.443. (Xo model.)

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, J ULIUs STIEFEL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Baltimore, in the State of Maryland, have invented new and useful Improvements in Bifurcated Garments, of which the following is a specilication.

The objectof my improvement is to prevent the tearing of the drawers at `the crotch or end of the front opening. For this purpose reenforcing cross-strips of unyielding material have been applied at the crotch, so that the tearing force is exerted-at this point upon the strip crosswise of its width, which thus forms a stay at the point where the force is exerted. Such resistance, however, is principally upon the vstitching and that dueto the cross-grain and Width of the stay, and while it gives better protection than ordinary fold binding and stitching, yet I have found such crossstay insufficient for the purpose, and it also renders the garment of undesirable thickness and set at this point.

' My improvement while forming an effective stay at the crotch of the garment forms also a neat set at the end of the opening, and its construction is such that the strain at the crotch of the garment is not resisted in a direction crosswise at the end of the opening, but in the line of the edges of the opening, so that when the fronts of the garment are opened the pulling force will be exerted in a line along the edges of both sides and not crosswise at the crotch, and thus absolutely preventthe tearing of the garment at the crotch.

Referring Vto the drawings, Figure I represents in front view a pair of drawers having my improved way of re-enforcing the front opening thereof. Fig. 2 is a View showing the direction of apulling strain at the crotch when the fronts are fully open. Fig. 3 is a detail sectional view of the crotch-stay; and Fig. 4 shows a portion of my improved cord crotchstay as prepared with a cover by whichthe stay-cord is applied tothe drawer-fronts.

The body a and the waistband b of the drawers may be made in the usual way, as shown, or in any other suitable manner. As shown,

the waistband extends around the sides of theV front opening, as re-enforcing fronts c, and are stitched together at the crotch in the usual way.

'My improvement is a separate edge-binder forming a continuous stay around the edges of the front opening of the garment and crossing the seam-joint crotch with a neat set at e. This stay I form as a separate device and apply as follows: A piece of unyielding cord or other' material, m, Fig. 4,0f the desired kind,and of a length sufficient to extend entirely around the edge of the front opening from the waistband corners a, is covered with a cotton strip, so as 'to give it a cord edge, g, and a webbing part,

sew in between the folded front edges, t', of the drawer-fronts, c, and the folded front edges, c,

of the Waistbandfronts are seen at thebrokenseam part in Fig. 1, thus making this sewed part support the covered cord fm outside of the stitching and thus give to each drawer front a cord nish,so that the strain at the crotch is resisted in the length ot' the cord along the edge and it cannot tear. It cannot break,and there is no strain upon the stitching, because the stitching is behind the cord-bound part and is therefore protected by it aty the crotch.

While my improvement gives most effective security against tearing at the crotch of the drawers, it also gives a` neat edge finish; and for this purpose I prefer to extend the cord all around theedge of the front opening.; but it may only extend around the crotch part to protect it, as stated.

I have shown the cord-bound stay as applied to the drawer-fronts; but it may be applied to the back opening and to any garment having an open part liable to tear when stretched.

Iam awarethat reenforcing stay-pieces,pboth corded and folded,have been used for bifurcations in garments, in which the stay has been applied both to the surface of the goods and between the folds or double parts thereof directly across the crotch or end of the opening and secured by stitching in the garment on each side of the crotch in such manner that the spreading strain upon the parts tends to pull the stay away from its stitching and to pull the stay out of its place in the garment and therefore to break its stitching. In my construction the re-enforcing stay forms -an exposed supplemental edge all around the bifnrcation, so that the spreading strain is not yielding cordbound strip,by its web n,I then ICO upon the .stitching nor upon the garment, but upon the supplemental edge of the garment in the direction of the length of such edge, whereby the garment is so stayed all along this edge as to practically transfer the spreading strain from the crotch of the upen parts to the whole length of the open parts. In this particular my improvement gives the advantage of' supplementing the edge of the fly or opening with an external stay crossing the crotch orjunetion of' the parts of the opening, so as to practically isolate the garment parts from the spreading strain at the crotch. In this particular the function of the external edge stay is esseutiall y dilierent from the funetion of a stay loosely crossing the crotch iu the opening, or an interior cross stay reeeiving the spreading strain and transferring it to the garment paris and tending to pull it from its stitching therewith.

l. A pair of drawers or similar garment having the edge of the bifnreated part reeu forced by a cord-bound stay composed of an nnyielding cord and a 'binding fabric strip bound by its web between the garment parts along the edge thereof, and supplementing the edge at the junction of' the stayed parts in a manner to relieve the latterof strain, as herein set forth.

2. As an improved article of manufacturey a pair of drawers having the front edge of the lybpening supplemented by an nnyielding eordbennd stay crossing the croteli of said opening and transferring the spreading strain from the garment to the projecting edge stay thereof, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

' JULIUS STIEFEL. lVitnesses:

A. H. Frsnna, ELI, Orrnnnnnu.

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