US3721522A - Method for scouring and dyeing silk in a single operation - Google Patents

Method for scouring and dyeing silk in a single operation Download PDF

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Publication number
US3721522A
US3721522A US00873857A US3721522DA US3721522A US 3721522 A US3721522 A US 3721522A US 00873857 A US00873857 A US 00873857A US 3721522D A US3721522D A US 3721522DA US 3721522 A US3721522 A US 3721522A
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United States
Prior art keywords
bath
silk
degumming
reagent
dyeing
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Expired - Lifetime
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US00873857A
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English (en)
Inventor
J Flechet
M Hugo
E Hugo
R Machon
Muriers A Des
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MURIERS A DES
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MURIERS A DES
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/045—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups dyeing and degumming silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01C—CHEMICAL OR BIOLOGICAL TREATMENT OF NATURAL FILAMENTARY OR FIBROUS MATERIAL TO OBTAIN FILAMENTS OR FIBRES FOR SPINNING; CARBONISING RAGS TO RECOVER ANIMAL FIBRES
    • D01C3/00—Treatment of animal material, e.g. chemical scouring of wool
    • D01C3/02—De-gumming silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/46—Compounds containing quaternary nitrogen atoms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/043—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups using dispersed dyes
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
    • Y10S8/916—Natural fiber dyeing
    • Y10S8/917—Wool or silk

Definitions

  • Our invention has for its object a method for scouring and simultaneously dyeing natural silk.
  • Our invention relates more particularly to the technical treatment and dyeing of such textile material.
  • the chief feature of our invention consists in that the removal of the gum through scouring and the dyeing are executed as a single operation within a single bath of which the pH is controlled very carefully during the different stages of the treatment, said control being obtained through incorporation with the bath of reagents under predetermined conditions governing the transfer and fixing of the dyestuff molecules on the fibroin after removal of the sericine.
  • Said transfer is chiefly furthered by a speedy and sudden modification of the pH and by the relative movement of the bath with reference to the silk material; various modifications may in fact be made in carrying out the method according to whether the natural silk is treated as threads in skein shape or else as wound over perforated tubes or cones or else on sleeves or again as woven, knitted or braided pieces of fabric.
  • the scouring reagents are preferably, but not necessarily constituted by tertiary, quaternary or the like salts of ammonium or else by soaps containing no tannin.
  • FIG. 1 is a graph illustrating the method and showing the modifications in the pH during the treatment with reference to time.
  • FIGS. 2 to 4 are predominantly diagrammatic views illustrating various apparatus adapted for the execution of our improved treatment according to the shape assumed by the natural silk whether a skein, a fabric or a reel carried by a sleeve, cone, tube or the like.
  • FIG. 5 is a cross-section through line 55 of FIG. 4.
  • FIG. 6 is a cross-section of a bayonet fitting for reels or cones.
  • FIG. 2 a machine carrying perforated reels of a known type used for treating according to our improved method skeins E of natural silk.
  • Said machine includes a vat 1, pipes 2 leading upwardly out of the vat towards hollow skein-carrying arms or reels 3 extending over the bath in the vat.
  • Said arms are closed at their free ends and perforated along their upper generating lines as shown at 311 to allow the treating liquid passing out of the bath into said arms to flow out of the latter.
  • a pump 4 controls the circuit of the liquid between the bath in the vat and the arms or reels 3.
  • the machine is furthermore equipped with any conventional means for heating the bath, which means are not illustrated.
  • the silk is treated in the vat by means of a bath the volume of which is approximately in the proportion of 30 litres of the bath for each kg. of silk to be treated.
  • Said bath is constituted chiefly by fresh or softened water incorporating a tensio-active reagent, that is a wetting product of the type usually sold in trade under different registered trademarks. About 0.5 gr. of said tensio-active product should be used for each litre of bath.
  • the bath is heated up to about 35 C. and the natural silk forming skeins E is wetted for about 10' min. during which the pump 4 is operative.
  • the degumming product is fed into the bath, said product being a tertiary, quaternary or the like ammonium salt or else a soap containing no tannin.
  • This product should be used in amounts corresponding very approximately to about 6% by weight of the silk to be treated.
  • the incorporation of said product with the bath is obtained at the origin of times shown in abscissae on the graph of FIG. 1. At said point 0, the pH of the bath is of a magnitude of 9.5 to 10.
  • the pump or pumps being started again, the bath is caused to circulate during about 5 min. at an approximate temperature of 92 C.
  • the pump or pumps are started again so as to cause the bath to circulate with the dyestuffs carried by it at a temperature of about 92 C.
  • the addition of dyestuffs is accompanied by a reduction in the value of the pH approximately as illustrated in the graph of FIG. 1.
  • the action of the dyestuffs and dyeing step continues during 30 min. or thereabouts or even up to about 50 min. as shown on the scale of times of the graph of FIG. 1.
  • the action of the bath is checked through examination of one or more samples of the silk and there is optionally added, if required and in accordance with the observations made, one or more dyestuffs and/or sodium sulfate Na SO whose function is wellknown in the dyeing industry and consists in increasing and marking more strongly the intensity of the color by furthering the setting on the fibroin of the non-fixed dyestuif still remaining in the bath.
  • dyestuffs and/or sodium sulfate Na SO whose function is wellknown in the dyeing industry and consists in increasing and marking more strongly the intensity of the color by furthering the setting on the fibroin of the non-fixed dyestuif still remaining in the bath.
  • the procedure is allowed to continue until the moment elapsed since the beginning of the operation reaches 1 /2 to 2 hours, said procedure being brought to an end in a conventional manner by emptying the vat 1.
  • the dyed skeins E are then rinsed and the usual finishing treatment is executed in accordance with conventional practice.
  • Said machine includes a vat in which an endless chain constituted by transverse bars 7 is caused to progress continuously under the action of any suitable means such as the wheels 6. Means for heating the bath are also provided.
  • the piece P of woven, knitted or braided natural silk wound off a roll R passes through the bath in the vat and is wound again over the roll R1, for instance by means of compressing and driving cylin-' ders 8.
  • the liquid forming the bath is then transferred in accordance with a continuous cycle by means of a pump 9 through a channel 10 starting from the lower section of the vat 5 up to a trough 11 feeding it back into the vat.
  • the trough extends throughout the breadth of the bath 7, of the chain bars 7 and of the fabric P at the very point of introduction of the fabric into the bath.
  • the bath is prepared again as described hereina bove and the treating procedure is the same as in the case described with reference to FIG. 2, the dyestutf being incorporated with the bath slightly after the degumming product.
  • the drop in pH through addition of sulfuric acid or the like is less considerable than in the preceding case and it may pass from about 9 to 9.5 to a value approximating 7.5.
  • the method may also be executed when the natural silk is constituted by threads wound over perforated sleeves, reels, tubes or cones as illustrated at B.
  • Said machine includes a vat 12 which may be closed fluidtightly by a cover 12a. Over the bottom of the vat there is laid a hollow plate 13 out of which tubes 14 rise vertically which tubes are provided with multiple perforations. Said tubes are closed at their upper ends which assume a tapering shape in order to further the fitting of the reels B threaded over the tubes.
  • the plate 13 and tubes 14 may be fitted removably in the vat which furthers and accelerates the fitting and subsequent removal of the reels.
  • a channel 15 connects the bottom of the vat with the inside of the hollow plate 13.
  • One or more pumps 16 provide for the circulation of the liquid of the bath which passes inside the plate 13 and thence into the tubes 14 so as to enter the perforated reels B and the silk wound round said reels, after which the liquid is recycled.
  • a system for heating the bath is provided.
  • perforated tubes 14 it is also possible to resort to a bayonet support over which are fitted reels or cones carrying the silk threads as shown cross-sectionally in FIG. 6.
  • the invention provides means for giving the silk, after the introduction into the bath of the degumming reagent, a physical shock as soon as the swelling of the sericine begins, with a view to removing said sericine.
  • a shock is obtained by stopping the circulating pump or pumps 16 acting on the bath as soon as the vat 12 is filled with the liquid forming the bath, which liquid is brought to a temperature of about C. while the chemical reaction is initiated between the degumming reagent, such as an ammonium salt or a soap without any tannin and the sericine.
  • the circulation of the bath should necessarily be stopped as soon as the vat is full and in any case as soon as the sericine has begun swelling and before the swelling has been brought to completion.
  • the duration of this complete swelling is readily ascertained since it depends on the ratio between the weight of the degumming reagent and the volume of the bath.
  • the pump or pumps 16 are started again after the rest period has lasted about 15 mins. and the physical shock is thus obtained at this moment.
  • the degumming is consequently operated in a homogeneous and uniform manner throughout the silk material. This can be checked by the uniform flow assumed by the liquid forming the bath. Consequently, the dyestuff is fixed in a perfectly homogeneous and uniform manner throughout the silk round the sleeves, tubes or cones.
  • a further operative step is executed so as to bring the degumming to a finish by adding the dyestuff while heating the bath to about 104 C.
  • the further operative steps are those precedingly described including chiefly a speedy and sudden modification of the pH.
  • a method for simultaneously degumming and dyeing natural silk comprising immersing the silk in a bath of pure water containing surface-active agent, adding to said bath a degumming reagent to obtain a pH of from 9 to 10, stirring the bath, adding to said same bath at least one dyestuff, stirring the bath until about 20 minutes has elapsed from the time the degumming agent was added, adding suflicient acid to cause the pH to drop suddenly by at least 1.5 points and removing the silk out of the bath when dyed to the desired shade.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 wherein the degumming reagent is constituted by an ammonium salt.
  • degumming reagent is a tannin-free soap.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 applied to silk skeins according to which the skeins are soaked for about 10 mins. in the bath raised at about 35 C. before the addition of the degumming reagent and the bath is then heated to about 95 C. after stirring before said addition of the degumming reagent, said degumming reagent being added in a proportion of about 6% by Weight with reference to the silk undergoing treatment in the bath and the temperature being maintained at about 92 C. during the addition of the dyestuff.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 applied to silk threads wound over perforated carriers according to which the bath is raised to about 95 C. after addition of the degumming reagent and the bath remains unstirred for about 15 mins., starting from the moment at which the degum ming reagent has begun its action by initiating a swelling of the sericine of the silk, to ensure a uniform degumming.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 applied to silk threads wound over perforated carriers according to which the bath is raised to about 95 C. after addition of the degumming reagent and the bath remains unstirred for about 15 mins. starting from the moment at which the degumming reagent has begun its action by initiating a swelling of the sericine of the silk, to ensure a uniform degumming, the bath being raised to about 104 C. during the dyeing step to ensure a further degumming.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Husbandry (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Zoology (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
US00873857A 1969-06-11 1969-11-04 Method for scouring and dyeing silk in a single operation Expired - Lifetime US3721522A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR6919242A FR2045162A5 (de) 1969-06-11 1969-06-11

Publications (1)

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US3721522A true US3721522A (en) 1973-03-20

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US (1) US3721522A (de)
JP (1) JPS4910635B1 (de)
CH (2) CH538565A (de)
DE (1) DE1956520C3 (de)
FR (1) FR2045162A5 (de)
GB (1) GB1277766A (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT1151601B (it) * 1982-06-08 1986-12-24 Henkel Chimica Spa Prodotto e procedimento per la sgommatura della seta naturale
FR2592407B1 (fr) * 1985-12-30 1988-07-29 Gruzinsky Inst Textilnoi Pro Procede d'assouplissage de tissus de soie naturelle et tissus de soie naturelle obtenus par ledit procede.

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Publication number Publication date
DE1956520B2 (de) 1973-03-29
CH538565A (fr) 1973-02-15
CH1686369A4 (de) 1973-02-15
FR2045162A5 (de) 1971-02-26
GB1277766A (en) 1972-06-14
JPS4910635B1 (de) 1974-03-12
DE1956520C3 (de) 1973-10-31
DE1956520A1 (de) 1970-12-17

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