Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
  • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/86—Polyethers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition, especially cosmetic composition for caring for/making up the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, and more particularly a cosmetic composition of emulsion type, exhibiting optimized water washability effect, and meanwhile maintaining good make up effect.
• Cosmetic compositions for caring for/making up keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, more especially the skin also known as foundations, concealers, or tinted creams, are commonly used to give an aesthetic color to the skin, for example, to the face, in order to conceal skin imperfections such as redness and spots.
• US2005/0008592 discloses a foundation in the formula of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase, at least one surfactant chosen from C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols, at least one other surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols and a mixture of volatile oils in a large amount (more than 6%).
• US2005/0002890 also discloses a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a liquid fatty phase, an aqueous phase, a dimethicone copolyol and a C 8 -C 22 alkyldimethicone copolyol, characterized in that it comprises solid particles of polymethyl methacrylate and in that the liquid fatty phase comprises volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the said composition being free of cyclotetrasiloxane.
• the conventional products as such raise concerns of the consumers in the following aspects: firstly, pigments containing in the foundation may cause clogging issue to the skin pores; secondly, removing of the foundation is time consuming and a cause of skin keratinization; thirdly, residues remain on skin even after using makeup removal.
• Such a composition can be obtained using at least one first surfactant chosen from alkyl dimethicone copolyols, at least one second surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols, which is different from the first surfactant, at least one third surfactant which is different from the first or the second surfactant, having a HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, and at least one hydrophilic pigment.
• the subject of the present invention is a composition in form of an emulsion, comprising at least one fatty phase, and at least one aqueous phase, and:
• the composition of the present invention is in form of a multiple emulsion, such as water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.
• the present invention comprises at least one filler, organic or mineral, chosen from modified or unmodified starch, preferably modified starch, such as acetylated oxidized starch.
• the present invention comprises at least one thickener, polymeric or mineral, preferably chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners, or a mixture thereof. More preferably the thickener is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers, lipophilic clays, hydrophobic silicas, or a mixture thereof, more preferably the thickener is chosen xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate, or a mixture thereof.
• the present invention is also directed towards a process for caring for/making up the skin, in particular the face, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of at least one composition in accordance with the invention.
• the current invention as described above is stable over time at room temperature (25° C.), for example, after storage for 2 months, and further, for example, for 4 months.
• the present invention provides good make up effect to the skin, such as homogeneous make up effect on the skin, and long lasting make up effect on the skin.
• the present invention possesses an optimized water washability property.
• water washability it intends to mean the washable ability of the present composition when using water for rinsing off from the skin.
• composition in form of an emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase, and:
• composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty phase containing at least one oil.
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least two fatty phases.
• oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the fatty phase(s) that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
• the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
• the ratio between volatile oil and non-volatile oil is greater than or equal to 1:3, more preferably greater than or equal to 1:1. They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
• non-volatile oil means oil that remains on the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips at room temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More specifically, non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
• volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
• silicon oil means oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si—O group.
• fluoro oil means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
• hydrocarbon-based oil means oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• hydrocarbon-based oils mention may be made of:
• hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, C 12 -C 22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
• Mentions maybe made of the hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, for example Squalane which is available under the trademark Pripure 3759-LQ-(GD) sold by Croda.
• hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, for example Squalane which is available under the trademark Pripure 3759-LQ-(GD) sold by Croda.
• the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
• composition of the present invention further comprises silicone oils.
• silicone oils mention may be made of:
• cyclohexasiloxane which is available under the trademark, for example, KF-996 sold by the company Shin Etsu, or Xiameter® PMX-0246 sold by the company Dow Corning, or dimethicones which is available under the trademark Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone fluid 5cs, Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone fluid 350cs, or Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone fluid 10cs sold by the company Dow Corning.
• the composition may comprise a fatty phase presenting in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 50%, preferably from 2% to 40%, and more preferably from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase comprises water.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25° C.), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
• monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isoprop
• the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
• a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, especially from 5% to 80% and more particularly from 10% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols present in the composition according to the invention is an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C 8 -C 22 )alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
• the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (I):
• cetyl dimethicone copolyols for example, copolyols of cetyl dimethicones and alkoxylated derivative of dimethicones, more preferably for example cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, such as the product marketed under the name Abil® EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
• the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the dimethicone copolyols which is different from C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols mentioned above, present in the composition according to the invention is an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane.
• R 1 , R 2 , R 3 independently of each other, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical or a radical —(CH 2 ) x —(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y —(OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) z —OR 4 , at least one radical R 1 , R 2 or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; R 4 being hydrogen, a C 1 -C 3 alkyl radical or a C 2 -C 4 acyl radical;
• A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
• B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time;
• x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
• y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
• z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
• x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
• y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
• R 4 is in particular hydrogen.
• A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
• B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
• y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
• A′ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
• dimethicone copolyol those sold under the names DC® 5329, DC® 7439-146, DC® 2-5695, Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.
• the compounds DC® 5329, DC® 7439-146, DC® 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) where respectively A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
• dimethicone copolyol PEG-10 dimethicone under the trademark KF-6017 that is sold by the company Shin-Etsu.
• the dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least one third surfactant.
• the third surfactant is different from the first or second surfactant aforementioned.
• the third surfactant has a HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25° C.
• HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Ploughshare. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
• the third surfactant has a HLB value between 8 and 20 according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25° C., more preferably between 10 and 15 according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25° C.
• the third surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof.
• Non-ionic surfactants that are suitable to the present composition may be chosen from:
• anionic surfactants of:
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of:
• the third surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants.
• the third surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkylpholyglucosides, or a mixture thereof.
• the third surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acides and glycerol or polyglycerol of C 6 -C 30 , more preferably C 6 -C 16 , fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkylpolyglucosides containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glycoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 sugar units, or a mixture thereof.
• the third surfactant of the present invention is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, decyl glucoside, or a mixture thereof.
• the at least one third surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic pigment, surface treated or untreated.
• the hydrophilic pigments can be hydrophilic pigments in an untreated state, or can be pigments which have been surface-treated for hydrophilization, or a mixture thereof.
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least one treated hydrophilic pigment.
• the hydrophilic pigments may be any type which has conventionally been used or is usable in the fields of cosmetics, examples of which include inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments.
• pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
• mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred mode, titanium oxides and dioxides and iron oxides (especially yellow, black or red iron oxide), and mixtures thereof, will be used.
• DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
• the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
• pearlescent pigments or “nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
• the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
• nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
• the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
• nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite),
• the pigment is chosen so as to have a relatively large average particle size, preferably having an average particle size of 0.1 to 50 ⁇ m, more preferably 0.1 to 30 ⁇ m, and even more preferably 0.1 to 20 ⁇ m.
• the hydrophilic pigment is an untreated inorganic pigment, preferably an untreated metal oxide, such as titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.
• Mentions may be made of, for example, the products sold under the trade name HOMBITAN FF PHARMA from SACHTLEBEN, the products sold under the trade name SunpuroTM red iron oxide C33-8001 (INCI name iron oxides R), SunpuroTM black iron oxide C33-7001 (INCI name iron oxides B), or SunpuroTM yellow iron oxide C33-9001 (INCI name iron oxides Y) by the company SUN.
• the hydrophilic pigment is a treated hydrophilic pigment, ie a pigment which has been surface-treated for hydrophilization with any treatment agent which has been conventionally used to confer a hydrophilic property to pigments.
• a hydrophilic organic agent for surface-treating a material in order to optimize its dispersion in aqueous medium is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates and polyethylene glycol derivatives. The materials thus treated may, in the absence of being soluble in a solvent medium, such as water, be dispersible therein.
• biological polymers for coating the dyestuffs to be dissolved according to the invention mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of carbohydrate type.
• biosaccharide gum chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.
• chitins and derivatives thereof such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and derivatives thereof such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
• pigments which have been surface-treated by surface treating agents such as in a silica treatment, alumina treatment, silica alumina treatment or a titani
• a silica and silica (and) alumina treatment treatment are especially preferable for selection, and the treatment itself is conventional in the present technical field.
• Mentions may be made of such pigments, for example, the products sold under the trade name Sympholight WW (INCI name titanium dioxide and silica and alumina), Sympholight RW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica), Sympholight BW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica), Sympholight YW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica), by the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least one treated hydrophilic pigment chosen from silica and alumina treated titanium dioxide, silica treated iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.
• a composition of the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic pigment in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one filler of organic or mineral nature.
• filler should be understood to mean colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are mineral or organic in nature and make it possible to confer softness and mattness on the composition and a uniform makeup result.
• the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
• the fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
• mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.
• a filler suitable for the invention may preferentially be talc, or a mixture thereof.
• organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon® from DuPont) powders, lauroyllysine, starch, modified or unmodified, specially oxidized ester modified starch, such as acetylated oxidized starch sold under the tradename GF-A390 by the company Suzhou Gaofeng, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospe
• the filler suitable for the composition of the present invention is chosen from starch, modified or unmodified, more preferably acetylated oxidized starch.
• the at least one filler is present in the composition of the present invention from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickener chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners, or a mixture thereof.
• hydrophilic thickener is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
• hydrophilic thickeners may be used alone or in combination. These thickeners may in particular be chosen from cellulosic polymers and gums.
• hydrophilic thickeners mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:
• lipophilic thickener is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase of the composition.
• the lipophilic thickener is chosen from mineral lipophilic thickeners.
• lipophilic clays for instance optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
• Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
• clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites or saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite family. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
• the clay may be chosen from montmorrillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
• the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
• Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
• organophilic clays mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, disteardimonium hectorite such as those sold under the name Bentone 38 VCG by the company ELEMENTIS, and a mixturethereof.
• Bentone 3 Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis
• Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst
• Claytone 34 Claytone 34
• the lipophilic thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, such as disteardimonium hectorite.
• hydrophobic silicas for instance fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
• the hydrophobic groups may be:
• the hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
• the thickener if present is chosen from xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate, or a mixture thereof, more preferably, the thickener is disteardimonium hectorite.
• the at least one thickener may be present in the composition according to the invention from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of dispersion or emulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple emulsions.
• Dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.
• An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
• Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).
• emulsions In the case of emulsions, a multiple emulsion, especially oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion is preferred.
• the composition is prepared following the steps of:
• phase B 1) adding at least one third surfactant and at least one hydrophilic pigment as defined in the present invention to water, mixing until homogeneous under room temperature (25° C.), obtaining a phase B;
• emulsion 1 which is a oil-in-water emulsion
• step 4 adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty phase A obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by stirring, to form a oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.
• a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils, and mixtures thereof.
• a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
• any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
• composition of the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a process for caring for/making up the skin, in particular the face, comprising the application to the skin of the composition according to the present invention.
• the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in cosmetic product for making up/caring for/cleansing/make up removing products for the skin, especially for the face and the lips.
• compositions were prepared (inv comp stands for invention compositions, compa comp stands for comparative compositions):
• composition 1 comprises hydrophilic treated pigments
• composition 2 comprises hydrophilic untreated pigments
• Comparative composition 1 comprises hydrophobic treated pigments
• Comparative composition 2 does not comprise the said third surfactant
• Comparative composition 3 comprises polyglyceryl isostearate with HLB value less than 8.
• compositions as listed above were prepared following the steps of:
• phase B 1) adding the third surfactants and pigments to the aqueous phase, mixing the mixture until homogeneous under room temperature (25° C.), obtaining a phase B;
• emulsion 1 which is a 02/W emulsion
• step 4 adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty phase A obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by stirring.
• the measurements were taken in a standardized manner at 20° C., before and after application with the bare fingers (for makeup effect evaluation), or washing with lukewarm water after application (for water washability effect evaluation), of the composition onto the skin of a model.
• a colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after making up was carried out by measuring the means for the planes of 10 women models, C* (chroma, the distance out from the neutral axis ⁇ saturationv), H* (hue, the angle/direction in the 360 degree range), and L* (lightness), respectively.
• C* chroma
• H* chroma
• H* chroma
• H* chroma
• L* lightness
• deltaE 94 The homogeneity and long lasting were calculated by the variation of these variables after 3 hours of makeup.
• the deltaE, dE or else ⁇ E 94 is defined as a measurement of difference between two colors.
• the formula was published in 1995 by a technical committee of the CIE (TC 1-29), as shown below:
• ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ E 94 * ( ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ L * K L ) 2 + ( ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ C ab * 1 + K 1 ⁇ C 1 * ) 2 + ( ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ H ab * 1 + K 2 ⁇ C 1 * ) 2
• K L , K 1 and K 2 are weighting factors
• L 1 *, C 1 * and H 1 * are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and L 2 *, C 2 * and H 2 * those of the second.
• T 0 measurement on naked skin freed of makeup, before application of the test composition
• T imm measurement after application and drying (10 minutes) of the test composition
• T 3h measurement 3 hours after application of the composition
• the measurements were performed on a panel of 10 women models who were kept in an air-conditioned (22° C.+/ ⁇ 2° C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of the test. They removed their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks was acquired using the Chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels. This image made it possible to measure the color at T 0 before applying makeup. Approximately 100 mg of the invention compositions 1 and 2, and the comparative compositions 1, 2, and 3 formulated in the formulation example were then weighed out into a watch glass and were applied with the bare fingers, respectively, to the half of the face on which the measurement was carried out at T 0 .
• an image of the made-up cheek was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color immediately after applying the compositions (T imm ). The women models then returned to the air-conditioned room for 3 hours. Finally, an image of the made-up cheek after waiting for 3 hours was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color after wearing the compositions for 3 h (T 3h ).
• T 10min measurement 10 minutes after application of the composition
• T 20min measurement 20 minutes after washing the skin where the composition is applied on by the lukewarm water
• the measurements were performed on a panel of 10 women models who were kept in an air-conditioned (22° C.+/ ⁇ 2° C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of the test. They removed their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks was acquired using the Chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels. This image made it possible to measure the color at T 0 before applying makeup. Approximately 10 mg of the invention compositions 1 and 2, and the comparative compositions 1, 2, and 3 were then weighed out into a watch glass and were applied with the bare fingers, respectively, to the face skin of a 12.56 cm 2 area on which the T 0 measurement was carried out.
• an image of the made-up cheek area was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color immediately after applying makeup (T 10min ). Then the made-up cheek was washed by lukewarm water. Finally, an image of the cleaned cheek area after waiting for 20 minutes after washing of the made-up cheek area was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color after washing of the made-up cheek area (T 20min ).
• the inventors discovered that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical issues existing in the prior art, and provides a stable cosmetic composition with optimized water washability effect, and meanwhile maintaining good make up effect.

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