Cosmetic composition comprising a cyclic silicone and an alkyltrisiloxane
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of at least one cyclic volatile silicone oil and of at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for making up or caring for human keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition to the keratin materials.
Low molecular weight siloxanes are known for their use as volatile compounds in cosmetic compositions. In this respect, cyclic silicone oils are most particularly used. They are usually designated D4, D5 and D6. They especially allow a pleasant feel to be obtained on contact with the skin.
In the context of the formulation of cosmetic compositions, it would be advantageous to have available silicone oils or silicone-oil mixtures which are capable of exhibiting a broad evaporation-profile range and in which the cyclic silicone oils are at least partly substituted.
WO 03/042221 describes the use of certain volatile linear alkyltrisiloxanes as volatile compounds in a cosmetic composition.
US 6 350 440 discloses a mixture of linear organosiloxanes with a particular evaporation profile. However, none of these documents mentions cosmetic compositions comprising a mixture of a cyclic silicone and of at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil with a particular evaporation profile.
The inventors have discovered that such a composition makes it possible to obtain an advantageous evaporation profile range while at the same time conserving good compatibility of this volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil with the ingredients usually used in cosmetics.
More precisely, a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one cyclic volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I):
in which R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to A carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms, the mixture of said volatile silicone oils having an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile silicone oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 1.7 to 25 mg/cm
2 and the cyclic volatile silicone oil content being greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up or treating keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above. Finally, a subject of the invention is the use of a mixture of volatile silicone oils as defined above for the preparation of a cosmetic composition having a cyclic volatile silicone oil content greater than 5% by weight relative to its total weight.
In the context of the substitutions of the group R, the term "one or more" preferably means "one to four" and even more preferably from "one to two". The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber, and more generally the keratin material, in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from
1.3 Pa to 8000 Pa (0.01 to 60 mmHg).
The term "at least one" means one or more individual compounds and also mixtures thereof. Thus, the expression "the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I)" covers the case in which it is a mixture of several oils of formula (I).
Similarly, the term "cyclic volatile silicone oil" covers the case in which it is a mixture of several cyclic volatile silicone oils.
In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" includes the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, and the term "keratin
fibers" includes the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, especially a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin materials as defined above. According to the present invention, the evaporation profile of the mixture of volatile silicone oils as defined above is such that the mass of volatile silicone oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 1.7 to 25 mg/cm2. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mass of volatile silicone oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 2 to 24.6 mg/cm , in particular from 2 to 9 mg/cm and from 16 to 24.6 mg/cm2.
The rate of evaporation of the oil is measured according to the protocol described below.
Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:
- 3-butyl- 1,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, - 3-ρropyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
- 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and
- mixtures thereof corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of volatile oils of the composition of the invention comprises one or more volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), preferably two of them, and in particular a mixture of
3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and of 3-ethyl-l, 1,1,3, 5,5,5-heptamethyl- trisiloxane. The volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) may be prepared according to known processes for the synthesis of silicone compounds.
The oil of formula (I) for which R is an ethyl group is especially sold under the name Baysilone TP 3886® and the oil for which R is a butyl group is especially sold under the name Baysilone TP 3887® by the company GE Bayer Silicone. According to the invention, the content of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil(s) of general formula (I) ranges from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1% to 65% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of
the composition.
According to another embodiment, the weight ratio between the cyclic volatile silicone oil(s) and the linear alkyltrisiloxane oil(s) of formula (I) may range from 0.01 to 30, preferably from 0.01 to 25 and even more preferably from 0.05 to 20.
CYCLIC VOLATILE SILICONE OILS
Among the "cyclic volatile silicone oils", mention may be made especially of those with a viscosity < 6 centistokes (6xlO"6 m2/s) and especially containing from 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 or 2 carbon atoms.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile silicone oil or oils contains or contain only methyl groups.
In this category of volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethyl- cyclopentasiloxane (D5), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of 3 -butyl- 1,1, 1,3,5, 5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane or 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-hepta- methyltrisiloxane combined with decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane content being greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The mixture of said volatile oils may thus have an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 2 to 9 mg/cm2 or from 16 to 24.6 mg/cm2.
For example, the weight ratios that may be suitable between the cyclic volatile silicone oil and the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil, such that the mixture of oils exhibits an evaporation profile such that the mass of oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 2 to 9 mg/cm2, may vary as follows:
• mixture of 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane: from 0.01 to 19, preferably from 1.5 to 10 and more preferably from 2 to 5,
• mixture of 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and of decamethyl¬ cyclopentasiloxane (D5): from 0.01 to 0.33.
Similarly, the weight ratios that may be suitable between the cyclic volatile silicone oil and the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil, such that the mixture of oils exhibits an evaporation profile such that the mass of oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 16 to 24.6 mg/cm2, are as follows: • mixture of 3-emyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and of decamethyl- cyclopentasiloxane (D5): from 1.38 to 19, preferably from 1.5 to 10, and more preferably from 2 to 5.
VOLATILE NON-SILICONE OILS The composition according to the invention may further comprise a volatile non-silicone oil, chosen in particular from fluoro or hydrocarbon-based volatile oils.
The term hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon- based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes of petroleum origin, for instance isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane (also known as 2,2,4, 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® and Permethyl®, and branched C8-C16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof; isodecane is preferably used.
According to one aspect of the invention, the volatile nonsilicone oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight.
According to another aspect of the invention, the composition is free from volatile non-silicone oil; in other words, it contains less than 0.1% by weight of volatile non-silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
NONVOLATILE OILS
The composition according to the invention may also comprise a nonvolatile
oil which may be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils.
The term "nonvolatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber, and more generally on the keratin material, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10"3 IHmHg (0.13 Pa).
Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - oils of animal origin, for instance mink oil, turtle oil or perhydrosqualene;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydro genated polyisobutene such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;
- fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; - synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched containing from 1 to
40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethyl¬ hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate and isodecyl neopentanoate;
- hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and
- pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate;
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
- C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
- and mixtures thereof.
The nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylsilicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylemyltrimethyl- siloxysilicates.
According to one aspect of the invention, the composition is free of nonvolatile oil, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of nonvolatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another aspect of the invention, the nonvolatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight and more preferably ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
AQUEOUS AND/OR WATER-SOLUBLE PHASE
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water. The water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as eau de Vittel, eau de Lucas or eau de La Roche Posay and/or a spring water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are water-miscible
(at 250C), for instance primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and C1 to C4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol or of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may be an anhydrous composition, i.e. a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
ADDITIVES
The composition may contain other usual cosmetic or dermatological ingredients which may be chosen especially from polymers, especially film-forming polymers and fixing polymers; surfactants; hair conditioning agents, dyestuffs; pearlescent agents; opacifiers; organic solvents; fragrances; thickeners; gelling agents; waxes; pasty products; hair dyes; silicone resins; silicone gums; preserving agents; antioxidants; cosmetic active agents; sunscreens; pH stabilizers; vitamins; moisturizers; antiperspirant agents; deodorants; self-tanning compounds, and mixtures thereof. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
The composition may advantageously contain a dyestuff, which may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 35% and better still from 5% to
25% of the total weight of the composition.
FORMULATION
The composition according to the invention may be in liquid, pasty or solid form or in the form of a mousse or a spray. It may also be an emulsion or an anhydrous composition.
The composition according to the invention may be used for making up, caring for or cleansing human keratin materials such as the skin (of the face or the body, the scalp and the lips), mucous membranes (inner edge of the eyelids), the hair, the nails, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
The composition thus finds a particular application as a body or facial care composition; a body or facial cleansing composition such as a shower gel, a bath gel or a makeup remover; a body or facial makeup composition such as a foundation, a lipstick, a lipcare product, a nail varnish, a nailcare product, a mascara or an eyeliner; a fragrancing composition; a hair composition such as a hair dye composition or a composition for permanently reshaping the hair; an antisun composition; a deodorant composition; a hair cleansing or haircare composition such as a shampoo or a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, a rinse-out composition to be applied before or after dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving or relaxing the hair, or alternatively between the two steps of a permanent- waving or hair- relaxing operation; a hair composition for holding the hairstyle, such as a styling lacquer, gel, mousse or spray.
Measurement of the rate of evaporation of an oil (protocol)
15 g of oil or of the mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystal- lizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance located in a chamber of about 0.3 m3 with a regulated temperature (25°C) and hygrometry (50% relative humidity). The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, ventilation being provided by means of a ventilator (Papst-
Motoren, reference 8550 N, operating at 2700 rpm) arranged vertically above the crystallizing dish containing the solvent, the vanes being directed toward the crystallizing dish and 20 cm away from the base of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed as mg of oil evaporated per unit of surface area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes).
As a guide, the respective profiles of certain volatile oils are given below, as mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes: isododecane: 24 mg/cm2, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4): 18.7 mg/cm2, - decamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D5): 4.1 mg/cm2,
3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl1xisiloxane: 24.6 mg/cm2, and 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane: 8.2 mg/cm2. The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below.
Example 1: Foundation stick
% by weight
Polyethylene wax (Performalene 500, New Phase Technologies) 4.00
Polyethylene wax (Performalene 400, New Phase Technologies) 8.00
Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (D5) 5.00
Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (D6) 20.00
Heptamethylethyltrisiloxane 19.00
Phenyltrimethicone (DC 556, Dow Corning) 19.00
Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 2.24
Brown iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.49
Ultramarine blue coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.31
Titanium oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 6.96
Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles 15.00
Procedure
The pigments are ground with a portion of the phenyl trimethicone (3 treatments in a three-roll mill). The waxes are melted at 100°C, and the ground pigments and the rest of the phenyltrimethicone are then added with stirring.
After about ten minutes at 100°C, the two cyclomethicones are incorporated slowly, followed by the PMMA particles.
The temperature is then reduced slowly to 800C and the heptamethylethyl- trisiloxane (INCI name of 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane) is then added
slowly.
After homogenization for about ten minutes at 80°C, the composition is poured into suitable molds at room temperature.
The molds are then left to cool for 6 minutes at room temperature and then for 20 minutes at -4°C.
The evaporation profile of the mixture of cyclopentadirnethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and heptamethylethyltrisiloxane is such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 20.5 mg/cm2.
Example 2; Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
Cetyldimethicone copolyol (Abil® EM 90 from the company Goldschmidt) 0.80 g
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 0.60 g
Dimethicone copolyol (KF 6017 from Shin-Etsu) 5.00 g
Isostearyl neopentanoate 0.50 g
Isoeicosane 2.00 g
Dimethicone DC 200 Fluid - 5 cSt from Dow Corning 2.30 g
Cyclohexasiloxane 8.00 g Distearyldimethylammonium-modified hectorite (Bentone 38 V® from Elementis) 1.6O g
Cyclopentasiloxane 16.53 g
Heptamethylethyltrisiloxane 12.47 g
Iron oxides 2.13 g
Titanium dioxide 5.87 g
Polymethyl methacrylate 4.00 g
Butylene glycol 10.00 g
Sodium chloride 0.70 g Preserving agents qs
Water qs 100.00 g
The mixture of cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and heptamethyl¬ ethyltrisiloxane has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 10.14 mg/cm2.
Example 3: Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
Abil® WE 09 from Goldschmidt 9.00 g
80/20 mixture of acetylated ethylene glycol stearate and glyceryl tristearate
(Unitwix® from United Guardian) 0.50 g Mixture of polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane and of cyclopentasiloxane (15/85)
(Mirasil C-D PDM® from Rhodia) 6.00 g Mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, of distearyldimethylammonium hectorite and of ethanol (Bentone gel VS-5V® from Elementis) 4.00 g
Cyclopentasiloxane 14.65 g
Heptamethylethyltrisiloxane 5.75 g
Iron oxides 2.11 g
Titanium dioxide 7.89 g
Nylon 12 powder 8.00 g
Magnesium sulfate 0.70 g
Cellulose gum (Blanose 7M8SF® from Aqualon) 0.50 g
Ethanol 5.00 g Preserving agents qs
Water qs 100.00 g
The mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and heptamethylethyltrisiloxane has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 7.96 mg/cm2.
Example 4: Mascaras
Paraffin wax 2.18 g
Carnauba wax 4.52 g
Beeswax 9.90 g
Polyvinyl laurate (Mexomer PP® from Chimex) 0.75 g
Modified hectorite (Bentone 38V® from Elementis) 5.32 g
Propylene carbonate 1.74 g
Polycarboxyl 2.21 g
Heptamethylethyltrisiloxane 57.74 g
Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 g
Pigments 4.60 g
Talc 0.84 g
Preserving agent qs
The mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and heptamethylethyltrisiloxane has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 7.5 mg/cm2.