WO2014012230A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising scattering filler and nacres - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising scattering filler and nacres Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014012230A1
WO2014012230A1 PCT/CN2012/078824 CN2012078824W WO2014012230A1 WO 2014012230 A1 WO2014012230 A1 WO 2014012230A1 CN 2012078824 W CN2012078824 W CN 2012078824W WO 2014012230 A1 WO2014012230 A1 WO 2014012230A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
cosmetic composition
nacre
oil
red
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2012/078824
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Xuedong Liu
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2012/078824 priority Critical patent/WO2014012230A1/en
Priority to CN201280074785.6A priority patent/CN104470489B/en
Publication of WO2014012230A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014012230A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651The particulate/core comprising inorganic material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin, which is especially intended to impart luminosity and healthy glow effect.
  • the terms "luminosity”' and “light effect” are understood according to the invention to mean the characteristic of light reflection, diffuse and continuous reflection over the skin. Indeed, the skin naturally reflects a portion of the incident light. The “light effect” according to the invention makes it possible to increase this reflection, which gives the makeup a more luminous and more radiant look.
  • the compositions according to the invention may also impart a healthy glow effect.
  • the expression “healthy glow effect” is understood to mean a natural coloration of the skin, with an improvement in the dull appearance of the complexion (desaturating or chromatic and anti- dull complexion effect).
  • composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials is understood to mean compositions different from rinse-off cleansing compositions. In particular, they will be compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin of the face and/or of the body, especially facial skin.
  • the inventors have found that scattering fillers, especially Bismuth compounds, combining with nacres, exhibit a very good light refection and making up effect, which meet the purpose of the current invention.
  • the hydrophilic properties of the scattering compounds helps the composition of the current invention affinitive to the skin, and enhances the adherence of the composition of the current invention.
  • a cluster crystal structure scattering filler is used in the current invention.
  • the composition as such becomes adherent and less transparent due to the structure of the scattering filler. Consequently, the composition brings to the skin a light scattering effect so as to give a glow but not shiny look, and at the same time covers the imperfection of the skin.
  • the composition of the current invention can absorb sebum on the skin after application.
  • the current invention provides a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • the current invention provides a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one bismuth oxychloride, preferably in a cluster crystal form, having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably between 1 1 pm and 17 pm,
  • the current invention as described above provides a good balance between the at least one scattering filler and thenacres, so as to enable the composition of the current invention to bring a coverage to the imperfection of the skin, as well as luminous and glow effect to the skin, especially to the facial skin.
  • the composition may be in various forms, in particular in the form of an anhydrous composition, dispersion or emulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple emulsion.
  • a composition of the current invention is preferably an emulsion, in particular a direct or inverse emulsion, or an anhydrous composition.
  • the composition is an emulsion.
  • An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
  • Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).
  • composition of the current invention further comprises at least one additional colorant selected from the group consisting of goniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • additional colorant selected from the group consisting of goniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the current invention further comprises at least one additional filler.
  • composition of the current invention further comprises at least one organic UV sunscreen ingredient being an organic and/or an inorganic UV sunscreen ingredient.
  • the invention relates to a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin, of a composition according to the invention, for example in the form of a coat of composition or several layers of composition applied to facial skin, used alone or in combination with another composition (two-step application), said composition according to the invention being applied before and/or after the application of a care composition or of a makeup composition such as a foundation.
  • the application of said composition to the skin, especially facial skin provides the latter with a luminous and healthy glow effect.
  • the invention also targets the use of an association comprising at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably between 11 pm and 17 pm, at least a red or pink nacre, and at least a blue nacre as defined according to the invention, in a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, as an agent for improving luminous effect to the complexion.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a least one scattering filler with a particle size less than 35pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, and more preferably between 1 1 pm and 17 pm.
  • the particle size is expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5]).
  • the scattering filler has a refractive index between 1.6 to 2.5, preferably from 1.7 to 2.3, and more preferably from 1.7 to 2.2.
  • the scattering filler is selected from the group consisting of boron nitride, barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride, alumina and composite powders based on titanium oxide and substrate like talc, mica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, and mixtures thereof.
  • the scattering filler is a bismuth oxychloride.
  • the scattering filler is a cluster crystal bismuth oxycloride having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2pm and 35pm, and more preferably between 1 1 pm and 17pm.
  • the cluster crystal bismuth oxychloride as mentioned in the current invention can scatter the light and therefore help to further deliver a luminous and glow effect to the skin, without shiny look
  • the at least one scattering filler as mentioned above is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10% and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • Nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the composition comprises at least a red or pink nacre and a blue nacre.
  • a red or pink nacre is a nacre having a red or pink reflection color.
  • the blue nacre is a nacre having a blue reflection color.
  • the nacres may be selected from nacreous pigments such as mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, , mica coated with Titanium oxide or dioxide, mica coated with chromium oxide, mica coated with tin oxide, mica coated with Sn0 2 , mica coated by BaS0 4 , mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • the nacres are white in their appearance, and they are formed preferably from mica coated with at least titanium dioxide. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres we use mica coated with titanium oxide or dioxide, and mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide.
  • the commercially available nacres mention may be made of the Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica-based) nacres sold by the company BASF, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, the following nacres based on natural mica: Sunpearl from the company Sun Chemical, KTZ from the company Kobo and Sunprizma from the company Sun Chemical, the Sunshine and Sunprizma nacres based on synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical, and the Timiron Synwhite nacres based on synthetic mica sold by the company MERCK.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a pink, red, bronze, orange, blue, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of pink-coloured nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the red nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco); the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Silk Blue (
  • red or pink nacres we may use the pink-colored nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the red nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the red-tinted nacres with a golden tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); and mixtures thereof.
  • red or pink nacres we use the red nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco).
  • blue nacres we may use the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Silk Blue (Timiron); the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); and mixtures thereof.
  • the nacres are generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 8% and more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the red or pink nacre is present is generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 8% and more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the blue nacre is present is generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1 %, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one scattering filler and the at least a red or pink nacre is from about 20:1 to about 1 :20, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1 :5.
  • the weight ratio of the at least a red or pink nacre and the at least a blue nacre is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10, preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1 :3 .
  • the scaterring fillers and the nacres represent more than 80% by weight of the total amount of colored particles of the composition, in particular more than 90%, more than 95%, more than 98% by weight of the total amount of colored particles of the composition.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, especially of emulsion type, which may be in the form of a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, or else in the form of a sun protection composition.
  • It may then be in a colourless or low colour form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents. It may then be used as a care or makeup base for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • a composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured product for making up keratin materials, in particular for making up skin, such as a foundation in particular to be applied to the face or the neck, a concealer, a complexion corrector, a tinted cream or a body makeup composition.
  • composition of the invention is low colour form, preferably a make-up base.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of an anhydrous composition, dispersion or emulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple emulsion.
  • a composition of the invention is preferably an emulsion, in particular a direct or inverse emulsion, or an anhydrous composition.
  • a dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.
  • An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
  • Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).
  • W/O/W direct
  • O/W multiple emulsion
  • the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion, preferably a oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
  • the composition according to the invention may form a base composition, or a care and/or makeup composition, or a composition to be applied under or on top of another makeup and/or care composition, in small touches in order to unify the complexion.
  • composition according to the invention is a care and/or makeup base
  • this care and/or makeup base may be applied to the whole of the face, before the application of a care composition and/or of a makeup composition.
  • said care and/or makeup base will be used as touches of makeup before (underneath) of after (on top of) the application of a layer of a care or makeup composition (foundation).
  • said composition is applied in touches to the areas of the face exhibiting skin defects; this application may take place before the subsequent application of a foundation or afterwards.
  • it may be applied around the eyes in order to illuminate the eye area or above the lips, on the cupid's bow, to give a curved shape.
  • said composition is applied to people with skin that has visible and/or tactile unevenness and/or a heterogeneity of the complexion.
  • said composition is applied to people with oily skin.
  • said composition is applied to people with aged skin or mature skin.
  • said composition is applied to people with Asiatic skin.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.
  • a composition of the invention may be dispersion or an emulsion.
  • Dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.
  • An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
  • Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O).
  • Aqueous phase may comprise an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water.
  • a water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as g lycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1 -C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1 -C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50% and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 90%, in particular from 5% to 80%, in particular from 10% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • Volatile oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10- 6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10- 6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1 % to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36 and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhe
  • C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis, oils of high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol.
  • oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention , mention may especially be made of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters,
  • silicone oils for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates,
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from water, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one colorant .
  • a cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one colorant selected from organic or inorganic colorants, in particular such as pigments conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, which may be fat-soluble or water-soluble, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional inorganic colorant is a titanium dioxide for improving coverage on the skin.
  • the additional organic pigment is used to give a better appearance to the product.
  • the additional colorant(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 5 %, preferably from 0.01 to 2%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2%.
  • pigments should be understood to mean white or coloured, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resulting film.
  • inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides or dioxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • inorganic pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic pigment is a titanium dioxide.
  • the titanium dioxide can be, for example, surface treated titanium dioxide.
  • surface treated titanium dioxide that are suitable for the current invention can be titanium dioxide surface treated by C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate, and/or further treated with metal oxides.
  • titanium oxide surface treated by C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate sold under the trade name PF-5 Ti02 CR-50 by Daito Kasei Kogyo
  • titanium dioxide surface treated by C9-15 floroalcohol phosphate sold under the trade name PFX-5 Ti02 CR-50 by Daito Kasei Kogyo.
  • organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537.
  • DPPs diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • organic pigments that may especially be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1 , D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11 , D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21 , D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31 , D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No.
  • D&C Yellow No. 10 D&C Yellow No. 11
  • FD&C Blue No. 1 FD&C Green No. 3
  • FD&C Red No. 40 FD&C Yellow No. 5
  • FD&C Yellow No. 6 D&C Black 2 (carbon black) and phthalocyanine blue, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat- soluble dyes.
  • the fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ - carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one particular colorant selected from the group consisting of goniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler of organic or mineral nature.
  • the fillers are generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the fillers are present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, preferably of less than 3% by weight of the composition.
  • filler should be understood to mean colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are mineral or organic in nature and make it possible to confer softness and mattness on the composition and a uniform makeup result.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200 or Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33 and Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.
  • a filler suitable for the invention may preferentially be talc, silica, or a mixture thereof
  • organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly- -alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ® ) powders, lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexy
  • the screening compositions in accordance with the invention comprise organic and/or inorganic UV sunscreen ingredients active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region which are hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the hydrophilic and/or lipophilic organic UV sunscreen ingredients are selected in particular from dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; and their mixtures.
  • the preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected in the group consisting of cinnamic derivatives, ⁇ , ⁇ diphenylacrylates derivatives, salicylic derivatives, and their mixtures.
  • the preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are especially selected in the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene and ethylhexyl salicylate, and their mixtures.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, for example from 1 to 15% by weight, and for example at least 1 % by weight, of UV sunscreen ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • Example 1 Emulsion O/W with combination of the invention After investigations, a good example, which is in whitish pinkish appearance, can deliver a very healthy glowing optical effect.
  • Phase A is heated to approximately 75°C and various ingredients are incorporated therein;
  • Phase B is prepared and heated to approximately 75°C;
  • composition of the current invention of example 1 is applied on 30 the skin of Asian women.
  • the result after application is evaluated by 3 experts immediately after application of the composition.
  • Example 1 significantly lighten a skin tone immediately after application.
  • Phase A is heated to approximately 75°C and various ingredients are incorporated therein;
  • Phase B is prepared and heated to approximately 75°C; Mixing phase A and B, and stirring the mixture with Rayneri until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained;
  • compositions of example 1 , comparative example 1 , 2 and 3 are applied to the skin of 6 Asian women, The result of after application is evaluated by 2 experts.
  • the luminous and healthy glow effect brought by the current invention is a total effect of brightening, anti-yellowish, and whitening effect to the skin.
  • the test results are presented in the table below.

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face is disclosed, which comprises: in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 um, preferably between 2 um and 35 um, more preferably between 11 um and 17 um, (b) at least a red or pink nacre, and (c) at least one blue nacre.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SCATTERING FILLER AND NACRES
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin, which is especially intended to impart luminosity and healthy glow effect. The terms "luminosity"' and "light effect" are understood according to the invention to mean the characteristic of light reflection, diffuse and continuous reflection over the skin. Indeed, the skin naturally reflects a portion of the incident light. The "light effect" according to the invention makes it possible to increase this reflection, which gives the makeup a more luminous and more radiant look. The compositions according to the invention may also impart a healthy glow effect. The expression "healthy glow effect" is understood to mean a natural coloration of the skin, with an improvement in the dull appearance of the complexion (desaturating or chromatic and anti- dull complexion effect).
The expression "composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials" according to the invention is understood to mean compositions different from rinse-off cleansing compositions. In particular, they will be compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin of the face and/or of the body, especially facial skin.
BACKGROUND ART
For centuries, consumers around the world, especially in Asia, are in search of novel cosmetic products for improving the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particular the surface appearance (visible and/or tactile unevenness) and/or the skin complexion, an external sign of a healthy glow, health and youth.
Moreover, to bring the keratin materials, especially the skin a luminous and healthy glow effect, it is necessary to hide the imperfection on skin, and at the same time scatter the light so as to bring to the skin a glow and at the same time non-shiny look. It is well known in the prior art to use pigments in a cosmetic composition to hide skin imperfection and brighten the skin. However, the pigment particles which have strong light scattering and absorption tend to accumulate inside the pores and enhance their visibility. US2005163730 from Unilever describes the association of silicon elastomer, ZnO nanopigment and scattering filler such as Ti02 coated mica or bismuth oxychloride. Therefore there remains the need to find novel care and/or makeup products, especially for the complexion, which give a luminous effect, without being shiny, which do not mark the relief while covering the defects (dyschromia, marks) or which give a unified colour to the face, in particular a natural and unified colour to the face, advantageously a healthy glow effect.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
The inventors have found that scattering fillers, especially Bismuth compounds, combining with nacres, exhibit a very good light refection and making up effect, which meet the purpose of the current invention.
The hydrophilic properties of the scattering compounds helps the composition of the current invention affinitive to the skin, and enhances the adherence of the composition of the current invention.
According to one specific embodiment, a cluster crystal structure scattering filler is used in the current invention. The composition as such becomes adherent and less transparent due to the structure of the scattering filler. Consequently, the composition brings to the skin a light scattering effect so as to give a glow but not shiny look, and at the same time covers the imperfection of the skin.
Furthermore, thanks to the structure of the scattering filler mentioned above, the composition of the current invention can absorb sebum on the skin after application.
In one aspect, the current invention provides a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(a) at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably between 11 pm and 17 pm,
(b) at least a red or pink nacre, and
(c) at least a blue nacre.
According to a preferred embodiment, the current invention provides a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one bismuth oxychloride, preferably in a cluster crystal form, having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably between 1 1 pm and 17 pm,
(b) at least a red or pink nacre, and
(c) at least a blue nacre.
The current invention as described above provides a good balance between the at least one scattering filler and thenacres, so as to enable the composition of the current invention to bring a coverage to the imperfection of the skin, as well as luminous and glow effect to the skin, especially to the facial skin.
According to the current invention, the composition may be in various forms, in particular in the form of an anhydrous composition, dispersion or emulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple emulsion.
A composition of the current invention is preferably an emulsion, in particular a direct or inverse emulsion, or an anhydrous composition.
Preferably, the composition is an emulsion.
An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).
According to another embodiment, the composition of the current invention further comprises at least one additional colorant selected from the group consisting of goniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
According to yet another specific embodiment, the composition of the current invention further comprises at least one additional filler. According to yet another embodiment, the composition of the current invention further comprises at least one organic UV sunscreen ingredient being an organic and/or an inorganic UV sunscreen ingredient.
In yet another aspect, the invention relates to a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin, of a composition according to the invention, for example in the form of a coat of composition or several layers of composition applied to facial skin, used alone or in combination with another composition (two-step application), said composition according to the invention being applied before and/or after the application of a care composition or of a makeup composition such as a foundation.
In particular, the application of said composition to the skin, especially facial skin, provides the latter with a luminous and healthy glow effect.
The invention also targets the use of an association comprising at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably between 11 pm and 17 pm, at least a red or pink nacre, and at least a blue nacre as defined according to the invention, in a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, as an agent for improving luminous effect to the complexion.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Scattering filler
The composition according to the invention comprises a least one scattering filler with a particle size less than 35pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, and more preferably between 1 1 pm and 17 pm.
The particle size is expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5]).
In particular, the scattering filler has a refractive index between 1.6 to 2.5, preferably from 1.7 to 2.3, and more preferably from 1.7 to 2.2.
In particular, the scattering filler is selected from the group consisting of boron nitride, barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride, alumina and composite powders based on titanium oxide and substrate like talc, mica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment, the scattering filler is a bismuth oxychloride.
In a preferred embodiment, the scattering filler is a cluster crystal bismuth oxycloride having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2pm and 35pm, and more preferably between 1 1 pm and 17pm. The cluster crystal bismuth oxychloride as mentioned in the current invention can scatter the light and therefore help to further deliver a luminous and glow effect to the skin, without shiny look
As examples of commercial products of bismuth oxycloride, we may use the following products: Ronaflair™ ESQ from Merck, Ronaflair LF™-2000 from Merck, Mearlite GLS and Mearlite LBU from BASF Corporation, POL LO from George Uhe Company, Inc., Pearl I and II, and Pearl Supreme UVS from Presperse LLC, Pearl-Glo 1085, Pearl-Glo M 1098, Pearl-Glo SF 1099, and Pearl-Glo SF UVR 1060 from BASF Corporation.
As a preferreed bismuth oxycloride, we use the following products Ronaflair™ ESQ from Merck, Ronaflair LF™-2000 from Merck, and more preferably the Ronaflair™ ESQ from Merck.
The at least one scattering filler as mentioned above is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10% and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Nacres The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
The composition comprises at least a red or pink nacre and a blue nacre.
A red or pink nacre is a nacre having a red or pink reflection color. The blue nacre is a nacre having a blue reflection color.
The nacres may be selected from nacreous pigments such as mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, , mica coated with Titanium oxide or dioxide, mica coated with chromium oxide, mica coated with tin oxide, mica coated with Sn02, mica coated by BaS04, mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants. Preferably, the nacres are white in their appearance, and they are formed preferably from mica coated with at least titanium dioxide. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
As preferred nacres, we use mica coated with titanium oxide or dioxide, and mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide. Among the commercially available nacres, mention may be made of the Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica-based) nacres sold by the company BASF, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, the following nacres based on natural mica: Sunpearl from the company Sun Chemical, KTZ from the company Kobo and Sunprizma from the company Sun Chemical, the Sunshine and Sunprizma nacres based on synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical, and the Timiron Synwhite nacres based on synthetic mica sold by the company MERCK.
The nacres may more particularly have a pink, red, bronze, orange, blue, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of pink-coloured nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the red nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco); the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Silk Blue (Timiron); the brown-tinted nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the names Nuantique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the red-tinted nacres with a golden tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a golden tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the golden-green pinkish-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
As examples of red or pink nacres, we may use the pink-colored nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the red nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the red-tinted nacres with a golden tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); and mixtures thereof.
As preferred red or pink nacres, we use the red nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco).
As examples of blue nacres, we may use the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Silk Blue (Timiron); the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); and mixtures thereof.
As preferred blue nacres, we use the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Silk Blue (Timiron).
The nacres are generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 8% and more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
The red or pink nacre is present is generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 8% and more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The blue nacre is present is generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1 %, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
To achieve the purpose of the current invention, the weight ratio of the at least one scattering filler and the at least a red or pink nacre is from about 20:1 to about 1 :20, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1 :5. The weight ratio of the at least a red or pink nacre and the at least a blue nacre is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10, preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1 :3 .
In a particular embodiment, the scaterring fillers and the nacres represent more than 80% by weight of the total amount of colored particles of the composition, in particular more than 90%, more than 95%, more than 98% by weight of the total amount of colored particles of the composition.
Galenic form
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, especially of emulsion type, which may be in the form of a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, or else in the form of a sun protection composition.
It may then be in a colourless or low colour form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents. It may then be used as a care or makeup base for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
A composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured product for making up keratin materials, in particular for making up skin, such as a foundation in particular to be applied to the face or the neck, a concealer, a complexion corrector, a tinted cream or a body makeup composition.
In particular, the composition of the invention is low colour form, preferably a make-up base.
The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of an anhydrous composition, dispersion or emulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple emulsion.
A composition of the invention is preferably an emulsion, in particular a direct or inverse emulsion, or an anhydrous composition.
Preferably, it is an emulsion. A dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.
An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O). In the case of emulsions, direct (O/W) emulsions are preferred.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion, preferably a oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. The composition according to the invention may form a base composition, or a care and/or makeup composition, or a composition to be applied under or on top of another makeup and/or care composition, in small touches in order to unify the complexion.
In the case where the composition according to the invention is a care and/or makeup base, it will advantageously be unpigmented or very low pigmented, allowing the use in said base of the combination of the scattering filler and nacres according to the invention . This care and/or makeup base may be applied to the whole of the face, before the application of a care composition and/or of a makeup composition. According to another embodiment, said care and/or makeup base will be used as touches of makeup before (underneath) of after (on top of) the application of a layer of a care or makeup composition (foundation). According to one particular embodiment, said composition is applied in touches to the areas of the face exhibiting skin defects; this application may take place before the subsequent application of a foundation or afterwards. According to another particu lar embodiment, it may be applied around the eyes in order to illuminate the eye area or above the lips, on the cupid's bow, to give a curved shape. According to one particular embodiment, said composition is applied to people with skin that has visible and/or tactile unevenness and/or a heterogeneity of the complexion.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to people with oily skin.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to people with aged skin or mature skin.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to people with Asiatic skin.
Physiologically acceptable medium Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.
A composition of the invention may be dispersion or an emulsion.
Dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase. An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O).
In the case of emulsions, direct (O/W) emulsions are preferred. Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as g lycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1 -C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1 -C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate. The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50% and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty phase
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.
In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 90%, in particular from 5% to 80%, in particular from 10% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes).
The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Volatile oils
The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®. Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 χ 10- 6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1 % to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non-volatile oils
The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36 and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane; synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R1 COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the chains R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetra isostearate, esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD- DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecyl- pentadecanol;
C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis, oils of high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention , mention may especially be made of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters,
C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, silicone oils, oils of plant origin, and mixtures thereof; optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A- 847 752; silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can contain only volatile compounds.
Additives
In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from water, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.
A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected. Additional colorants
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one colorant .A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one colorant selected from organic or inorganic colorants, in particular such as pigments conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, which may be fat-soluble or water-soluble, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the additional inorganic colorant is a titanium dioxide for improving coverage on the skin.
In particular, the additional organic pigment is used to give a better appearance to the product. The additional colorant(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 5 %, preferably from 0.01 to 2%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2%.
The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or coloured, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resulting film.
As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides or dioxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. As preferred inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the inorganic pigment is a titanium dioxide.
The titanium dioxide can be, for example, surface treated titanium dioxide. Non-limiting examples of surface treated titanium dioxide that are suitable for the current invention can be titanium dioxide surface treated by C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate, and/or further treated with metal oxides.
Preferably, mentions can be made of titanium oxide surface treated by C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate sold under the trade name PF-5 Ti02 CR-50 by Daito Kasei Kogyo, or titanium dioxide surface treated by C9-15 floroalcohol phosphate sold under the trade name PFX-5 Ti02 CR-50 by Daito Kasei Kogyo. Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537. [
Among the organic pigments that may especially be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1 , D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11 , D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21 , D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31 , D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11 , FD&C Blue No. 1 , FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Black 2 (carbon black) and phthalocyanine blue, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat- soluble dyes. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β- carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one particular colorant selected from the group consisting of goniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
Fillers
A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler of organic or mineral nature.
The fillers are generally present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the fillers are present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, preferably of less than 3% by weight of the composition.
The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are mineral or organic in nature and make it possible to confer softness and mattness on the composition and a uniform makeup result.
The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200 or Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33 and Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.
A filler suitable for the invention may preferentially be talc, silica, or a mixture thereof
Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly- -alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ® ) powders, lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki, carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders; and mixtutres thereof.
UV sunscreen ingredient The screening compositions in accordance with the invention comprise organic and/or inorganic UV sunscreen ingredients active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region which are hydrophilic and/or lipophilic. The hydrophilic and/or lipophilic organic UV sunscreen ingredients are selected in particular from dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, as examples of organic UV sunscreen ingredients, of those denoted below under their INCI names:
- para-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
- PABA,
- Ethyl PABA,
- Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
- Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP,
- Glyceryl PABA,
- Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives:
- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,
- Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane,
- Salicylic Derivatives:
- Homosalate, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM
Industries,
- Ethylhexyl Salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by
Haarmann and Reimer,
- Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher,
- TEA Salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
- Cinnamic Derivatives:
- Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark
"Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,
- Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,
- Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E
1000" by Haarmann and Reimer, - Cinoxate,
- DEA Methoxycinnamate,
- Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
- Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate,
- β,β-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives:
- Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF,
- Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF, - Benzophenone Derivatives:
- Benzophenone-1 , marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF, - Benzophenone-2, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-4, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-5,
- Benzophenone-6, marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 1 1 " by Norquay, and their mixtures.
The preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected in the group consisting of cinnamic derivatives, β,β diphenylacrylates derivatives, salicylic derivatives, and their mixtures.
The preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are especially selected in the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene and ethylhexyl salicylate, and their mixtures.
Mention may be made especially of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold under the tradename UVINUL MC 80® by the company BASF, of ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the tradename NEO HELIOPAN OS® by the company SYMRISE and of octocrylene sold under the tradename NEO HELIOPAN 303® by the company SYMRISE. The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, for example from 1 to 15% by weight, and for example at least 1 % by weight, of UV sunscreen ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition .
EXAMPLES
Example 1 : Emulsion O/W with combination of the invention After investigations, a good example, which is in whitish pinkish appearance, can deliver a very healthy glowing optical effect.
Figure imgf000023_0001
(Simulsof 165 from Seppic)
CETYL ALCOHOL
0.7
(Ecorol 16/98 from Ecogreen Oleochemicals)
DIMETHICONE
(Viscosity 350 cSt, Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicon Fluid 0.5 350CS from Dow Corning®)
OCTYLDODECANOL
4 (Eutanol® G from Cognis (BASF))
ETHYL HEXYL M ET H OXYC I N NAM AT E
7.5 (Parsol® MCX from DSM Nutritional Products)
TRIETHANOLAMINE
0.4
(Tirethanolamine 99% (TEA 99) from Dow Chemical)
PHENOXYETHANOL
0.7 (Sepicide LD from Seppic)
CYCLOHEXASILOXANE
(Xiameter® PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane from Dow 1 Corning®)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) C9-15
FLUOROALCOHOL PHOSPHATE (and)
ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1
(PFX-5 Ti02 CR-50 from Daito Kasei Kogyo)
MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE
4 (Flamenco® Summit Red R30D from BASF)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA
0.3 (Timiron® Silk Blue from Merck)
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
2.7 (RonaFlair ESQ from Merck) TALC
0.5
(Luzenac® Pharma M from Luzenac)
SILICA
0.5
(Solesphere® H-51 from AGC SI-TECH)
RED 4
(Unicert red 07004-J from Sensient Cosmetic 0.005
Technologies)
D
YELLOW 5
(Unicert yellow 08005-J from Sensient Cosmetic 0.0038 Technologies)
E FRAGRANCE 0.25
Preparation method
Phase A is heated to approximately 75°C and various ingredients are incorporated therein; Phase B is prepared and heated to approximately 75°C;
Mixing phase A and B, and stirring the mixture with Rayneri until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained;
The remaining phases are incorporated into the emulsion and stirring the mixture until it cools down.
Evaluation method and results
The composition of the current invention of example 1 is applied on 30 the skin of Asian women. The result after application is evaluated by 3 experts immediately after application of the composition.
Figure imgf000025_0001
- A significant improvement in the Transparency +8.5% (p<0.01 );
- A significant reduction in Olive component -7.1 % (p<0.01 )
- A significant decrease in Yellow component -18.9% (p<0.01 );
- A significant increase in Pink component +16.9% (p<0.01 ).
Other color components which mainly represent the skin tone were varied as follows:
- A significant variation in Brown component -1 1.0% (p<0.01 );
- A significant variation in Light brown component -10.6% (p<0.01 );
- A significant variation in Beige component -10.4% (p<0.01 );
These variations indicated that the composition of Example 1 , significantly lighten a skin tone immediately after application.
All these data have shown a significant improvement of the skin radiance immediately after application of the composition of Example 1.
All the investigated descriptors (L, B, T, Olive, Yellow, and Pink) went to the expected direction.
Example 2: Effect of the combination of the invention
Three comparative examples are prepared to evaluate the effect in comparison with the current invention of example 1.
Figure imgf000026_0001
PRESERVATIVES 0.8 0.8 0.8
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
(Propylene Glycol USP/EP from Dow 8 8 8 Chemical)
DISODIUM EDTA
(Versene Na2 Crystals from Dow 0.05 0.05 0.05 Chemical)
POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE
(Amphisol® K from DSM Nutritional 1 1 1 Products, Inc.)
CARBOMER
0.3 0.3 0.3
(Carbopol®980 Polymer from Lubrizol)
XANTHAN GUM
0.1 0.1 0.1
(Keltrol® CG from CG-T Kelco)
CYCLOHEXASILOXANE
(Xiameter® PMX-0246 6 6 6 Cyclohexasiloxane from Dow
Corning®)
TRIETHANOLAMINE
(Tirethanolamine 99% (TEA 99) from 0.3 0.3 0.3 Dow Chemical)
STEARIC ACID
2 2 2
(Palmera® B1802CG from Klk Oleo)
GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG- 100 STEARATE
1.5 1.5 1.5
(Simulsof 165 from Seppic)
CETYL ALCOHOL
(Ecorol 16/98 from Ecogreen 0.7 0.7 0.7 Oleochemicals) DIMETHICONE
(Viscosity 350 cSt, Xiameter® PMX- 0.5 0.5 0.5 200 Silicon Fluid 350CS from Dow
Corning®)
OCTYLDODECANOL
4 4 4 (Eutanol® G from Cognis (BASF))
ETHYL HEXYL
M ET H OXYC 1 N NAM AT E
7.5 7.5 7.5
(Parsol® MCX from DSM Nutritional
Products)
TRIETHANOLAMINE
(Tirethanolamine 99% (TEA 99) from 0.4 0.4 0.4 Dow Chemical)
PHENOXYETHANOL
0.7 0.7 0.7 (Sepicide LD from Seppic)
CYCLOHEXASILOXANE
(Xiameter® PMX-0246 1 1 1 Cyclohexasiloxane from Dow
Corning®)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) C9-15
FLUOROALCOHOL PHOSPHATE
(and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE
6.993 1 1
(PFX-5 Ti02 CR-50 from Daito Kasei
Kogyo)
IRON OXIDES (and) C9-15
FLUOROALCOHOL PHOSPHATE
0.805 0 0
(PFX-5 Sunpuro Yellow C33-9001
from Daito Kasei Kogyo)
IRON OXIDES (and) C9-15
0.042 0 0 FLUOROALCOHOL PHOSPHATE (PFX-5 Sunpuro Black C33-7001 from
Daito Kasei Kogyo)
IRON OXIDES (and) C9-15
FLUOROALCOHOL PHOSPHATE
0.16 0 0
(PFX-5 Sunpuro Red C33-8001 from
Daito Kasei Kogyo)
MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE
(Flamenco® Summit Red R30D from 0 0 4 BASF)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA
0 0 0 (Timiron® Silk Blue from Merck)
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
c 0 2.7 2.7 (RonaFlair ESQ from Merck)
TALC
0.5 0.5 0.5
(Luzenac® Pharma M from Luzenac)
SILICA
(Solesphere® H-51 from AGC SI- 0.5 0.5 0.5 TECH)
RED 4
(Unicert red 07004-J from Sensient 0.005 0.005 0.005 Cosmetic Technologies)
D
YELLOW 5
(Unicert yellow 08005-J from Sensient 0.0038 0.0038 0.0038 Cosmetic Technologies)
E FRAGRANCE 0.25 0.25 0.25
Preparation method
Phase A is heated to approximately 75°C and various ingredients are incorporated therein; Phase B is prepared and heated to approximately 75°C; Mixing phase A and B, and stirring the mixture with Rayneri until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained;
The remaining phases are incorporated into the emulsion and stirring the mixture until it cools down. Evaluation methods and results
The compositions of example 1 , comparative example 1 , 2 and 3 are applied to the skin of 6 Asian women, The result of after application is evaluated by 2 experts.
The luminous and healthy glow effect brought by the current invention is a total effect of brightening, anti-yellowish, and whitening effect to the skin. The test results are presented in the table below.
5: very high effect;
4: high effect;
3: medium effect;
2: low effect; 1 : no effect.
Figure imgf000030_0001

Claims

What is claimed is:
1. Cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(a) at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably between 11 pm and 17 pm,
(b) at least a red or pink nacre, and
(c) at least one blue nacre.
2. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the scattering filler has a refractive index between 1 .6 and 2.5, preferably between 1.7 and 2..3, more preferably between 1.7 and 2.2.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least on scattering filler is selected from the group consisting of boron nitride, barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride, alumina and composite powders based on titanium oxide and substrate like talc, mica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one scattering filler is a bismuth oxychloride, preferably in a cluster crystal form.
5. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one red nacre or blue nacre is selected, respectively, from the group consisting of mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with chromium oxide, mica coated with Sn02, mica coated by BaS04, mica coated with titanium oxide or titanium dioxide, mica coated with an organic dye and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, mica particle at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants, and a mixture thereof.
6. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one scattering filler is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15%, preferably from 1 % to 10%, more preferably from 2% to 5%, based on the total amount of the composition.
7. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least a red or pink nacre is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 8%, more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.
8. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least a blue nacre is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 1 % preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.
9. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one scattering filler and the at least a red nacre is from about 20:1 to about 1 :20, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1 :5.
10. Cosmetic composition of anyone of preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of the at least a red nacre and the at least a blue nacre is from about 10: 1 to about 1 :10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1 :3.
1 1. Cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, or a multiple emulsion, more preferably a oil-in-water emulsion.
12. Cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims further comprises at least one additional colorant.
13. Cosmetic composition of claim 12, wherein the at least one additional colorant is selected from the group consisting of goniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
14. Cosmetic composition of claim 12 or 13, wherein the at least one colorant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 5 %, preferably from 0.01 to 2%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2%.
15. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims further comprises at least one additional filler.
16. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprises at least one UV sunscreen ingredient.
17. Method for caring for and/or making up of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular to the skin, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16.
18. Use of association comprising at least a scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 pm, preferably between 2 pm and 35 pm, more preferably from 7 pm to 1 1 pm, at least a red nacre, and at least a blue nacre in a cosmetic composition for improving luminous and glow effect to the complexion.
PCT/CN2012/078824 2012-07-18 2012-07-18 Cosmetic composition comprising scattering filler and nacres WO2014012230A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

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PCT/CN2012/078824 WO2014012230A1 (en) 2012-07-18 2012-07-18 Cosmetic composition comprising scattering filler and nacres
CN201280074785.6A CN104470489B (en) 2012-07-18 2012-07-18 Cosmetic composition including scattering filler and mother-of-pearl

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JP2014189514A (en) * 2013-03-27 2014-10-06 Pola Chem Ind Inc Dullness amelioration cosmetic preparation
FR3042706A1 (en) * 2015-10-26 2017-04-28 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONFERRING A NATURAL TINT AND A GOOD MINE EFFECT
WO2017101106A1 (en) * 2015-12-18 2017-06-22 L'oreal Composition with improved radiance effect
WO2018079455A1 (en) * 2016-10-31 2018-05-03 L'oreal Composition for natural skin brightening effect
WO2020160236A1 (en) * 2019-02-01 2020-08-06 Beiersdorf Ag Sunscreen compositions

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JP7242256B2 (en) * 2018-11-06 2023-03-20 ロレアル Makeup powder composition containing goniochromatic pigment and white pigment

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US20050019285A1 (en) * 2002-12-24 2005-01-27 L'oreal Cosmetic composition of foundation type for making up dark skins
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Cited By (13)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2014189514A (en) * 2013-03-27 2014-10-06 Pola Chem Ind Inc Dullness amelioration cosmetic preparation
FR3042706A1 (en) * 2015-10-26 2017-04-28 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONFERRING A NATURAL TINT AND A GOOD MINE EFFECT
WO2017072129A1 (en) * 2015-10-26 2017-05-04 L'oreal Cosmetic composition imparting a natural complexion and a healthy-looking appearance effect
WO2017101106A1 (en) * 2015-12-18 2017-06-22 L'oreal Composition with improved radiance effect
CN109890351A (en) * 2016-10-31 2019-06-14 莱雅公司 Composition for natural skin brightening effect
JP2018070514A (en) * 2016-10-31 2018-05-10 ロレアル Composition for natural skin lightening effect
WO2018079455A1 (en) * 2016-10-31 2018-05-03 L'oreal Composition for natural skin brightening effect
KR20190067865A (en) * 2016-10-31 2019-06-17 로레알 Composition for natural skin radiance effect
KR102280388B1 (en) * 2016-10-31 2021-07-21 로레알 Compositions, cosmetic methods and uses for keratinous substances
JP6995472B2 (en) 2016-10-31 2022-01-14 ロレアル Composition for natural skin lightening effect
CN109890351B (en) * 2016-10-31 2022-04-08 莱雅公司 Composition for natural skin lightening effect
US11786445B2 (en) 2016-10-31 2023-10-17 L'oreal Composition for natural skin brightening effect
WO2020160236A1 (en) * 2019-02-01 2020-08-06 Beiersdorf Ag Sunscreen compositions

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