RU2677664C2 - Cosmetic method for lightening skin and/or lips - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.SUBSTANCE: group of inventions relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening and/or homogenizing mainly the color of the skin and/or lips. Said method includes applying to the skin or lips, in particular on the face and/or dark circles around the eyes, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition containing (I) at least non-interfering scattering white particles, characterized by a medium volume size (D50), varying from 0.3 mcm to 6 mcm, and having a refractive index (RI) between 1.7 and 2.2, in an amount of from 4 % to 8 % by weight, and (II) from 0 % to 2 % by weight of particles with a refractive index greater or equal, preferably strictly greater than 2.3. Also the composition and its application are disclosed.EFFECT: group of inventions allows to achieve an immediate lightening effect when applied to the skin.12 cl, 1 tbl, 4 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of non-therapeutic cosmetic lightening (also called shining) of the color of the skin and / or lips, in particular to lightening the complexion with a natural and obvious corrective result, without introducing material.

For people with colored skin or those who have age spots, pink acne or eye shadow, a desire to correct skin dyschromia and use cosmetic or dermatological compositions to lighten and even out the complexion is typical for this. To this end, it is a well-known practice to use cosmetic formulations containing whitening components.

The substances most commonly used as the whitening component are hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, arbutin and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (for example, ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl glucoside), individually or in combination with other active substances.

However, to achieve the effect of whitening the skin, these components must be used for extended periods of time and in increased quantities. In addition, when using compositions containing these substances, there is no immediate effect.

It is a well-known practice to use products containing interfering pigments, which, although they can mask skin imperfections, in particular color imperfections, exhibit such a basic drawback as giving the skin a shine and a not-so-natural look. Moreover, these pigments have a distinctive feature of providing a pearlescent appearance and strong coloring to the products in which they are present.

It is also a well-known practice to use cosmetic compositions that can affect the uniformity of complexion and, optionally, give an immediate whiter appearance, these compositions consist of powders dispersed in a binder solution. Powders are usually white pigments (titanium dioxide) or colored pigments (iron oxides), depending on the desired effect, and / or fillers with various shapes (lamellar, spherical), depending on the desired effect.

One of the methods is to introduce a white pigment, usually nanotitanium dioxide, which forms the basis of instant whitening cosmetic products: these products are characterized by ΔL> +1 (lightness).

Another, more recent, method consists in introducing titanium dioxide and iron oxides into the composition, but with an extremely unsaturated tone, as opposed to traditional compositions. In this case, if the product has been applied, the combination of product color and skin color results in a slight decrease in the saturation of the visible color, which leads to the perception of skin lightening. This method is used in products called "BB cream" ("BBCream - Balm Blemish Cream"). These products are characterized by ΔC <-1 (unsaturation).

Thus, the complexion becomes more uniform essentially only on the basis of the coating properties provided by pigments and fillers. The disadvantage of such compositions is that the mitigation of skin defects, especially colored defects, is provided by the coating properties of the compositions. The skin on which makeup is applied in this way loses its natural appearance due to the lack of transparency of these compositions.

Thus, there remains a need for a cosmetic composition that results in a perceived lightening of the color, which is immediate and without significant effect, which is intended for topical application to the skin and / or lips, in particular to the skin of the face and / or eye shadow or eye contour .

Amazingly, we have demonstrated that the use of an effective amount of white particles, as determined according to the results of the invention, very well provides a perception of lightening the color of the skin or lips, while it has a natural effect. The terms used are lightening without significant influence or “transparent white” lightening.

The compositions of the invention are thus characterized by an increase in lightness (ΔL> +1), a decrease in saturation (ΔC <-1), and high transparency, which, according to the applicant company, are not found in existing cosmetic products.

In fact, these particles exhibit a very specific balance between light scattering and opacity, which makes it possible to form forms containing a high amount of traditional white particles, however, without a final unnatural application result.

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for brightening and / or smoothing especially the color of the skin and / or lips, in particular the complexion, including applying to the skin and / or lips, in particular to the skin of the face and / or eye shadow, at least one a layer of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least non-interfering scattering white particles having an average volumetric size (D50) ranging from 0.3 μm to 40 μm and having a refractive index (RI) of between 1.7 and 2.2 , in an amount of more than or equal Mr., preferably strictly more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the specified composition, and containing from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to preferably strictly greater than 2.3 (such as titanium dioxide or iron oxides).

According to the invention, “brightening (or brightening) and / or evening the color of the skin and / or lips” means the effect of the composition mainly on the color of the skin and / or lips, in particular on the color of the skin of the face, while maintaining a natural appearance (transparency ) skin and / or lips.

This effect of the composition on the color and stained skin imperfections (such as acne or eye shadow) is different from the smoothing effect by shading, also called the "soft focus" effect, which does not allow for color modification. In fact, it is expected that the composition according to the invention modifies the color properties of the entire face or parts thereof by lightening the complexion of the face, reducing the color intensity of defects / rashes or eye shadow, and does not have a “shading” effect.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied on its own or before the use of a care product or a cosmetic product.

The invention also relates to the use of an effective amount of such particles in a cosmetic composition as a means for brightening and / or uniformizing the color of the skin and / or lips, especially the complexion, in particular with an immediate effect, for example, by brightening the complexion or reducing the visibility of the color skin defects or eye shadow.

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising said non-interfering scattering white particles and characterized by certain optical properties of transparency and coating of the surface to be coated.

In particular, another object of the invention is a cosmetic composition, especially in the form of a water in oil emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

(i) at least non-interfering scattering white particles, characterized by an average volumetric size (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and a refractive index (RI) of between 1.7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the named composition,

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than 2.3,

showing a translucent of at least 75% and a coating efficiency (contrast ratio / translucent) of at least 0.1, in accordance, for example, with the measurement protocol disclosed hereinafter.

In accordance with a particularly preferred form, it is possible to use boron nitride particles having an average volumetric size D50 of less than 6 μm, preferably in the range of 0.3 to 6 μm, in particular 1.5 to 5 μm, and preferably 1, 5 to 3 microns, such as those sold under the brand name PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics.

In a specific embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

(i) at least non-interfering scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride, characterized by an average volumetric size (D50) of from 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of between 1.7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the named composition,

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than 2.3,

said composition predominantly exhibits a translucency of at least 75% and a coating efficiency (contrast ratio / translucency) of at least 0.1, in accordance, for example, with the measurement protocol disclosed hereinafter.

In a specific embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

(i) at least non-interfering scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride, characterized by an average volumetric size (D50) of from 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of between 1.7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the named composition,

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than 2.3,

said composition after application to the skin and / or lips gives an increase in lightness of color ΔL> +1 and a decrease in color saturation ΔC <-1, in accordance, for example, with the measurement protocol disclosed hereinafter.

The compositions of the invention provide a predominantly high level of transparency (translucency), giving a natural effect in the form of a makeup result without a mask effect.

The effect of the compositions of the invention on skin color can be measured by the following protocol:

100 mg of the composition was applied to half of the face. Subsequently, the measurement was performed by the method and on a Chromasphere device having a resolution of 410 × 410 pixels described in FR 2,829,344. The measurements of L * (luminance) and C * (saturation) in the CIELab76 system were performed in a standardized way at 20 ° C, before and after application with bare fingers, 100 mg of the composition on half the face on a surface of 4 cm × 4 cm, including only the cheek. This operation was performed on both cheeks.

The compositions of the invention exhibit an increase in lightness of color ΔL> +1 and a decrease in color saturation ΔC <-1, and mainly a higher transparency associated with the cosmetic effect of lightening and / or color alignment without a mask effect (natural effect).

The compositions of the invention may be in the form of a gel, serum, direct, reverse and multiple emulsions, molded lipsticks, or loose or compact powders.

The compositions of the invention make it possible to immediately impart to the skin or lips on which they are applied, and in particular to the facial skin, improved qualities in terms of uniformity, uniformity, transparency and whiteness. These formulations may also have masking properties.

Compositions according to the invention can also make it possible to reduce the perception of color defects in the skin, namely, in particular red spots.

Non-interfering scattering white particles

The term "scattering particles" is understood to mean particles detecting scattering of light that does not show any preferred direction. Therefore, particles that exhibit the effect of optical interference, known as "interfering" particles, will be completely excluded from them. In the same way, particles that exhibit a gloss effect, such as metallic particles or any other particles with a metallic effect, such as bismuth oxychloride, will also be excluded.

The term "white" is understood to mean particles having white color and its derivative colors (whitish, alabaster and the like), as opposed to primary colors and their derivatives.

In particular, white particles have a luminosity value L * close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

The scattering white particles of the invention have an average refractive index of between 1.7 and 2.2. This is because if the particle has a refractive index greater than 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high and if this coefficient is less than 1.7, then the brightening effect is insufficient.

White particles according to the invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolution of the eye. Since the aforementioned ability is approximately 40 μm, particles showing an average volumetric size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably less than 25 μm and, better, even less than or equal to 6 μm, will thus be considered. However, it is important to use particles for which the D50 is greater than 0.3 μm, and preferably 0.5 μm, taken to prevent a large loss of opacity, which would be extremely harmful to the desired effect.

Thus, the composition according to the invention includes at least white particles showing an average refractive index between 1.7 and 2.2 and a volume size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably between 0.3 and 25 μm and better still between 0.3 and 6 microns, and even between 0.5 and 3 microns.

These particles may be made of one material or else may be composite. For example, these particles may be boron nitride with an average refractive index of 1.74. They can also be selected from composite particles containing titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from alumina, quartz, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica, poly (methyl methacrylate) particles (PMMA), polytetrafluoroethylene particles (PTFE), or mixtures thereof , with an average refractive index between 1.7 and 2.2.

According to a first embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.

According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and an aluminum substrate.

According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.

The non-interfering scattering white particles are predominantly boron nitride particles, preferably having an average volumetric size of from 0.3 to 6 microns.

Non-interfering scattering white particles can be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and in particular from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The average refractive index is defined as the sum of the refractive indices normalized by the weight of the component in the particle.

As examples of composite particles, for example, mica plates (60%) coated with TiO ₂ (40%) with an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6 × 1.5 + 0.4 × 2.5); incorporation of titanium oxide (40%) into the alumina matrix (60%), with an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6 × 1.6 + 0.4 × 2.5).

The following is a table of refractive indices used:

Table 1
Examples of refractive indices of various materials Mica 1.4-1.7 Bismuth oxychloride (indicator, outside the invention) 2.15 Fe ₃ O ₄ 2,4

TiO ₂ (anatase) 2,5 TiO ₂ (rutile) 2.7 Boron nitride 1.74 Alumina (Amorphous) 1,6

Note: The refractive index of bismuth oxychloride is given here as an indicator. It is known that said bismuth oxychloride in its traditional form does not correspond to particles within the scope of the invention, since it is a particle with reflective properties.

Examples of particles can be mentioned, for example, boron nitride particles such as PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.

The scattering white particles selected according to the invention lead to very specific optical properties in terms of contrast coefficient and transparency (transmission). This is because the particles, when prepared, for example, in a medium, such as the medium in the composition illustrated in the examples, must have a high level of translucency to maintain a natural look, but must also have sufficient “coating properties” on the skin to give noticeable brightening effect.

Translucency or transparency can be determined using Byk Gardner's Haze-gard. This tool characterizes visual perception through objective measurement values.

Films of the composition with a thickness of 25 μm were applied to polyethylene (PE) films with a thickness of 50 μm. The films were subsequently evaluated after drying for one hour at ambient temperature. They were placed in the instrument, and measurements of transparency (transmission) were performed.

In turn, the contrast ratio was estimated by preparing a 50 μm film on a contrast diagram having a white part and a black part. The protocol for distributing the compositions is to obtain a 50 μm application area in a standard contrast chart. Measurements were taken on a white background.

Color measurements were carried out using a Konica Minolta CR-400 Chroma Meter colorimeter. The colorimeter provides numerical data expressing the absolute value and color difference between the control sample and the sample to be examined. Data obtained on a blank diagram without film was used as a control value.

The working conditions are listed below:

- standard CIE 1964 10 ° observation unit,

- CIE light source, type D65,

- measurement geometry d / 0, variant d / 8. The instrument has an optical device that produces scattered light placed in a spherical cavity coated with a white layer that causes multiple reflections of light. A glare-suppressing trap removes the glare effect on the sample surface.

Three measurements of the spectral reflection coefficient were performed on each of the two backgrounds of the contrast diagram, using the measuring head of the spectrocolorimeter, directly on 50 μm films. The resulting values are X, Y, and Z.

The contrast ratio was calculated by calculating the arithmetic average of three Y values on a black background, divided by the average of three Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

For example, when viewed in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as illustrated by Example 1 in this patent application containing 5% by weight of boron nitride, the following behavior may be observed:

Title CR (contrast ratio) T (translucency = transparency) CR / T (surface coating efficiency) Boron Nitride Softouch Boron Nitride Powder
CC6058 Momentive Performance Materials (Mid-Volume Size D50 8 μm) 11.23 89.03 0.13

Boron Nitride PUHP 3008 from Saint Gobain Ceramics, (average volume size D50 15 μm) 9.58 89.33 0.11 Boron Nitride PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics, (average volumetric size D50 3 μm) 19.27 81.03 0.24

Similar results can be obtained for any composition, preferably a liquid, provided that the content of non-interfering scattering particles according to the invention is between 4% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The non-interfering scattering white particles of the invention are thus such that, in a content of 4% to 8% by weight in the composition, they result in a composition having a transmission of at least 75%, in particular at least 80%, and coating efficiency (CR / T) is greater than 0.1, preferably greater than 0.15 according to the measurement protocol disclosed above.

The last parameter reflects the effectiveness of the coating with respect to the unit of transmission.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, boron nitride particles having an average volumetric size D50 of less than 6 μm, such as boron nitride particles sold under the brand name PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics having an average average volumetric size, will be used. D50 3 μm.

These non-interfering scattering white particles according to the invention are contained in the composition in an effective amount to lighten and / or uniformize the skin and / or lips, in other words, in an amount of at least 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular from at least 1 5% by weight and preferably at least 2% by weight.

Preferably, the content of said particles will vary from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, and in particular in an amount of 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. With a content of more than 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the named composition, the effect of the mask becomes too large and this can damage the desired effect, which combines whiteness and transparency.

In addition, it is possible to add color to the composition, both introduced by dyes, and pigments, varnishes, pearlescent components, goniochromatic pigments, and the like.

However, in the case where these composite or non-composite particles show a refractive index greater than 2.3, such as inorganic pigments, for example, care must be taken not to exceed 2%. This is because, above this concentration, the brightening effect can be reduced or indeed even completely suppressed. In addition, the latter phenomenon is accompanied by a mask effect.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously does not include additional white particles (i.e., other particles other than non-interfering scattering white particles according to the invention), and in particular does not include titanium dioxide.

The compositions used according to the invention can in particular serve as the basis for cosmetic compositions. They include, for such use, a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable environment" is understood here as meaning a medium compatible with the skin and / or lips.

FORMULATIONS

The compositions according to the invention are presented in all forms of compositions suitable for application to the skin or lips: suspensions, dispersions, gels, serums, liquid or solid emulsions (in the form of an emulsion "water in oil", "oil in water", multiple emulsions), aqueous , anhydrous or oily lipsticks, solid, liquid or pasty anhydrous products, loose or compact powders, or molded, molded or pressed forms.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of an emulsion “water in oil” or “oil in water”, in particular in the form of an emulsion “water in oil”.

In particular, it is a liquid emulsion.

A product in “solid” form should be understood to mean, according to the invention, a composition showing such hardness that it does not flow under its weight at ambient temperature, in contrast to “liquid” compositions.

The compositions of the invention may be compositions for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips.

In particular, this will be the basis for skin care and / or makeup.

In another embodiment, this will be the basis for lip care or makeup.

The named composition can be applied by itself or in combination with a care product or a cosmetic product; in this case, it is applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, before using the care product or for makeup.

Liquid phase

The composition according to the invention may contain at least one aqueous phase, preferably in a content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, and in more detail from 20% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase usually contains water and, optionally, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The water may be flower water, such as corn starch water and / or water extracted from plants or fruits, and / or thermal or non-thermal mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and / or spring water, sea water, produced water, water from melting glaciers or distilled water, twice distilled or sterilized by any other process.

In the present invention, the term “water soluble solvent” means a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and which is miscible with water (miscibility in water is greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure).

A water-soluble solvent (s) suitable for the invention may be selected from C _1-8 and in particular C _1-5 monoalcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols, as described above, and their mixtures. Ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol, are thus particularly suitable for the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains at least one C ₁ -C ₄ monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

The composition of the invention may further include at least one salt, for example sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride or calcium phosphate, alone or in the form of a buffer mixture.

The aqueous phase may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible substance that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, soluble color molecules or dyes, surfactants and mixtures thereof or water-soluble sunscreens.

Liquid oil phase

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may include at least one liquid oil phase containing at least one oil.

The liquid oil phase may comprise from 1% to 80% of the composition by weight, in particular from 2% to 50% of the composition by weight.

Oils can be volatile or non-volatile, whether or not hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated, or mixtures thereof.

By origin they can be animals, mineral or synthetic.

The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean oil that remains on the skin or on keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil exhibits an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm ² / min.

In order to measure this evaporation coefficient, 15 g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested were placed in a 7 cm diameter crystallizer cup, placed on a scale in a large chamber measuring approximately 0.3 m ³ , the temperature of which can be controlled at 25 ° C, and the humidity in which can be controlled at a relative humidity of 50%. Then the liquids were allowed to freely evaporate, without stirring, while ensuring the air flow using a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotation 2700 rpm), placed in a vertical position above the crystallizer cup with the specified oil or a mixture of oils, the blades were directed to the mold cup, 20 cm from the bottom of the mold cup. The weight of the oil remaining in the mold cup was measured at regular intervals. Evaporation rates were expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit surface area (cm ² ) and per unit time (minute).

The term “volatile oil” is understood to mean any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating upon contact with skin or lips for less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is a liquid at ambient temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil exhibits an evaporation rate of from 0.01 to 200 mg / cm ² / min inclusive.

In the understanding of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si — O group.

The term “fluorinated oil” is understood to mean an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils

Volatile oils can also be selected from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and, in particular, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example, from oils sold under the trademarks Isopar® or Permethyl®.

Volatile oils, volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s), can also be used. and having in particular from 2 to 8 silicon atoms, and especially from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It may also be mentioned that volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention are dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanetoxylmethylethoxyethyl-ethylethyl-ethylethyl-ethylethyl-ethyl-ethyloxy-ethylethyl-ethyloxy-ethylethyl-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl-ethyloxy-ethylethyl-ethyryl-ethylethyl-ethyryl-ethylethoxy-ethane-ethyryl-ethylethoxy-ethane-ethyryl-ethylethoxy-ethane-ethyryl-ethylentoxy-dexyl-ethyryl-ethylentoxy-dexyl-ethylethoxy-methylentrisyl-oxyl-ethyryl-ethylentoxy-dexyltric-siloxane,

Volatile fluoride oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used.

Non-volatile oils

Non-volatile oils can be selected in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorine and / or silicone oils.

In particular, as non-volatile hydrocarbon oils can be listed:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

- vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as phytosteryl esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and octidodecyl / phytosteryl lauroyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed by esters of fatty acids and glycerol, especially in which C to C ₄ fatty acids are ₃₆ , and in particular C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ , these oils may be either linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoid or octanoid triglycerides, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, giant pumpkin oil, millet seed oil, barley seed oil, quinoa seed oil, rye oil, candle tree oil, passionflower oil, shea butter oil , aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach seed oil, peanut butter, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, horned butter, canola oil, carrot seed oil, safflower equal oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, arc foam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoa butter, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, oil apricot kernel, peanut butter, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin seed oil, musky rose oil, ku creepy oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or sold under the trademarks MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818 ® by Dynamit Nobel,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as PaRleam, or squalane,

- synthetic esters having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , where R ₁ is a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ is a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the numbers of carbon atoms in R ₁ and R ₂ chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters can be selected in particular from esters of a fatty acid and an alcohol, such as, for example: cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isoropyl myristate and izoropilpalmitat, etilpalmitat, 2-etiogeksilpalmitat, izoropilstearat, izoropilizostearat, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or oktilgidroksistearat, diizoropiladipat, heptanoate, particularly izostearilgeptanoat, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyloctanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoa t), and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecylneopentanoate, isotearidecylneopentanoate or octyldodecylneopentanoate, such as isonononate acid, isonation, isonation, diisostearyl malate,

- polyol esters or pantaerythritol esters such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

esters of dimeric diols and dimeric diacids such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, which are sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and are described in US 2004/175338,

copolymers of dimer diols and dimeric diacids and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer / dilinolein dimer copolymers and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G,

copolymers of polyols and dimeric diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer,

fatty alcohols, which are liquids at room temperature, containing branched and / or unsaturated chains having from 12 to 26 carbon volumes, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl octanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol ,

higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- dialkyl carbonates, two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicapryl carbonate sold under the trademark Cetiol CC® from Cognis,

oils with a high molar mass, in particular with a molar mass in the range of from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7,500 g / mol, and in particular from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oils with a high molar mass that can be used according to the present invention, for example, oils selected from:

- lipophilic polymers,

- esters of linear fatty acids having a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 35 to 70,

- hydroxylated esters,

- aromatic esters,

- esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids, which are branched and contain from 24 to 28 carbon atoms,

- silicone oils,

- vegetable oils,

- and mixtures thereof,

fluorine-containing oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-modified and / or silicone-modified, such as fluorosilicon oils, fluorinated polyesters or fluorosilicones, such as those described in EP-A-847 752,

silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes containing a side alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl group, or an alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl group at the end of the silicone chain, where the groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicates, and

- mixtures thereof.

In a known manner, the compositions of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are frequently found in cosmetic or dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, lipophilic structure-forming agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, flavorings, surfactants, waxes , fillers, shielding agents, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyes or salts.

Surfactants

The composition of the present invention may include at least one surfactant.

The composition of the present invention may include at least one surfactant (s) selected in particular from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or in mixture.

Surfactants are usually contained in the composition in an amount that is in the range from 3% to 20% by weight, more specifically from 3.5% to 15% by weight, actually even strictly more than 5% by weight, and more specifically within from 5.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In accordance with a specific embodiment, especially in the case where the composition of the invention is an emulsion in the form of a "water in oil" composition may include at least one silicone surfactant.

As an example, the silicone (e) surfactant (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another specific embodiment, the non-silicone (e) surfactant (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 4% to 10% by weight, in particular from 5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the surfactant is chosen in order to effectively stabilize the emulsion, especially considering the type of emulsion, namely in the form of an oil in water, water in oil or oil in water in oil emulsion, according to the invention. This choice comes within the competence of a person skilled in the technical field.

As oil-in-water emulsions, for example, non-ionic surfactants and, in particular, polyol and fatty acid esters having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, can be listed, and, better, from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their hydroxyalkylated derivatives, which are derivatives containing hydroxyalkylated and / or hydroxypropylated units, such as glyceryl esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their hydroxyalkylated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, sorbitan esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their hydroxyalkylated derivatives; ethoxylated esters of fatty acids and sugars (glucose or alkyl glucose); sucrose esters; fatty alcohol esters; sugar esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, for water-in-oil emulsions, carbohydrate or silicone surfactants can be used.

As carbohydrate surfactants, for example, polyester polyols such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the brand name Arlacel P 135 from Uniqema or polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the brand name Dehymuls PGPH from Cognis can be listed.

As silicone surfactants, for example, alkyldimethicone copolyols, such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the trademark Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning, and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the trademark Abil EM 90 from Goldschmidt, or a polyglyceryl 4 mixture, can be listed. -isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate sold under the trade name Abil WE 09 from Goldschmidt.

Also, one or more co-emulsifiers may be added there. The co-emulsifier may preferably be selected from the group consisting of polyolalkyl ethers. As polyolalkyl ethers, for example, glycerol and / or sorbitan esters can be listed, for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the trademark Lameform TGI from Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate sold under the trademark Isolan GI 34 from Goldschmidostor sorbitol sold under the brand name Arlacel 987 from ICI, sorbitol glyceryl isostearate sold under the brand name Arlacel 986 from ICI, and mixtures thereof.

Waxes

The composition of the present invention may include at least one structuring substance for liquid fatty phases selected from waxes.

In particular, a wax which is suitable according to the invention can be selected in particular from waxes of animal, mineral or synthetic origin, or mixtures thereof.

As an example of waxes that can be used according to the invention, one can list:

- waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, or vegetable waxes, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, urikuri wax, Japanese wax, cocoa butter, or cork tree bark wax or sugarcane waxes,

- mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petrolatum paraffin, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

- synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis,

silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes, mention may also be made, for example, of polyester silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or alkyl methicones such as C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ alkylmethicone sold under the trademark AMS C 30 by Dow Corning,

hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C, such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tall oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and fatty esters that are solid at 25 ° C, such as C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate sold under the trademark Kester Wax K82H from Koster Keunen,

- and / or mixtures thereof.

Fillers

The composition in accordance with the invention may also contain at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to provide additional matting and coating properties and / or to improve stability, taking into account exudation and non-spreading after application.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean colorless or white, solid particles of any shape that are present in insoluble form and dispersed in the composition medium. These particles, of organic or inorganic nature, can give the composition a texture or structural rigidity and / or softness, and cosmetic uniformity.

The fillers used in the compositions of this invention may be in lamellar, spherical, or spherical form, in the form of fibers, or in any other intermediate form between these specific forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be coated directionally, and in particular they can be targeted treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorine derivatives or any other substance that enhances the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, mica, quartz, hollow quartz microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and quartz and titanium dioxide compounds such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass

As examples of organic fillers, powders formed from polyamide (Orgasol Nylon® from Atochem), polyethylene, poly (methyl methacrylate), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) or acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres, such such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexillactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl from Toshiba, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps obtained from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 ( Chemdal Corporation) or polyurethane powders, in particular powders formed from a cross-linked polyurethane, including a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylolhexillactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexillactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of these various adjuvants is traditionally used in the art, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into lipid spherules.

As active ingredients, the composition may contain active substances traditionally used in cosmetics and selected, for example, from exfoliating components, moisturizing components, depigmenting components, bleaching components, anti-glycation components, anti-glycation components, NO synthase inhibitors, components that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or which prevent their destruction, components that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or kerati keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, tightening components, components, relaxing muscles, components to combat the effect of contamination or free radicals, components that act on microcirculation, components that affect the energy metabolism of cells, or organic photoprotective components or inorganic photoprotective components, which are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B regions of the spectrum.

The bleaching components that can be included in the composition of the present invention, in order to complement the immediate effect achieved by the scattering particles, include, for example, the following components: kojic acid; ellargic acid; arbutin and its derivatives, such as described in applications EP-895 779 and EP-524 109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, in particular those described in WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, and also its salts and esters; Calcium D-pantetine sulfonate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; and plant extracts, especially licorice, blackberry, scutellaria and Bacopa monnieri, this list is not limiting.

In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions used may contain at least one organic photoprotective component and / or at least one inorganic photoprotective component that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B regions of the spectrum (which are adsorbents) soluble or fat soluble or insoluble in conventional cosmetic solvents.

Photoprotective components are usually contained in the compositions of the invention in a proportion that is in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is in the range of 0.2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions used in accordance with the invention may be more or less liquid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, balm, milk, serum, paste or foam. They can be arbitrarily applied to the skin or lips as an aerosol. They can also be presented in solid form, for example, in the form of lipstick.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for lightening and / or homogenizing the skin or lips, in particular the face and / or eye shadow, comprising topically applying the composition of the invention to the skin or lips as defined above. The cosmetic method will be more specifically intended to immediately lighten and / or immediately give uniformity to the skin and lips.

The composition of the invention can be used alone or as a care and / or cosmetic base applied to the skin before the care product or the makeup product.

The invention also relates to a method of makeup and / or non-therapeutic skin or lip care, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition of the invention as defined above.

Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of non-interfering scattering white particles, as defined above, as a component that brightens and / or gives uniformity to the skin and / or lips, especially on the face, and / or to mitigate skin defects.

The examples that follow are given to illustrate the invention, however, they are not limiting. Compounds, as the case may be, are referred to as chemical names or as CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

Amounts are indicated as percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are shown not as the amount of active material, but as the total amount introduced into the composition.

EXAMPLES

The following compositions were prepared in accordance with conventional methods for preparing cosmetic compositions.

Example 1: Brightening face base: water-in-oil emulsion

Ingredients Content in% Magnesium sulfate 0.6 Boron Nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (s) cetyl PEG / PPG 10/1 dimethicone (s) hexillaurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 1.7 Acetylated Glycerol Stearate (Cetacene 03 1350 from Vevy) 0.5 Nylon 12 6 Hexillaurate 1.7 Cyclopentasiloxane 13 Propylene glycol 4,5 Dimethicone 2.6 Denatured alcohol 0.2 Water q.s. up to 100 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (s) cetyl PEG / PPG 10/1 dimethicone (s) hexillaurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 2,3 Disteardimonium hectoritis 0.9 Preservatives 0.2

100 mg of this composition was applied to half of the face. Subsequently, the measurement was performed by the method and on a Chromasphere device having a resolution of 410 × 410 pixels, described in patent FR 2 829 344. Measurements of L * (luminance) and C * (saturation) in the CIELab76 system were performed in a standardized way at 20 ° C, and after application with bare fingers, 100 mg of the composition on half the face on a surface of 4 cm × 4 cm, including only the cheek. This operation was performed on both cheeks.

The results are shown below:

ΔL * ΔL * Example 1 +1.22 -1.73

On the surface treated with the composition in Example 1, a color-brightening effect without a camouflage effect (natural make-up effect) was achieved in comparison with un-treated skin.

Example 2: Lightening the contour of the eye: an emulsion in the form of "water in oil" with additional dye

Ingredients Content in% Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 0.61 Boron Nitride (98% BN minimum)
Particle Size: 3 microns (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 Smectite: modified magnesium silicate in cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and ethanol (18/77/5) 5.22 Disodium Salt Brilliant Yellow (CI: 15985) 0.006 Preservatives one Powder Nylon 12 6 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 9 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity 10 cSt) 2.6 A mixture of ethoxylated polymethylacetyldimethylmethylsiloxane, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and 5.75

hexylaurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) Microbiologically pure deionized water q.s. up to 100 Isododecane 1.7 Propylene glycol 4,5 Acetylated Ethylene Glycol Stearate 0.46

When applied to the shadows around the eyes or to the incision of the eye, an immediate lightening color effect was achieved without a masking effect (natural make-up effect), in comparison with untreated skin.

Example 3: Base for makeup, applied under a color-giving product (two steps)

Ingredients Content in% Magnesium sulfate 0.6 Boron Nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 Preservatives one Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1.7 Acetylated Glycol Stearate 0.5 Nylon 12 6 Hexillaurate 1.7 Cyclopentasiloxane 13 Propylene glycol 4,5 Dimethicone 2.6 Denatured alcohol 8 Water q.s. up to 100 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 2,3 Isododecane 1.7 Disteardimonium hectocrit 0.9

Applied under the decorative powder, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a clarified and more even complexion as the final result of makeup.

Example 4: Lipstick

Ingredients Content in% Boron Nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 Cold pressed sweet almond oil (from Olvea) 7.33 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 7.33 Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Fatty Glycerides (Softisan 100 from Cremer Oleo) 2.68 Isopropyl isostearate 7 Candellil wax eleven Hybrid Rapeseed Oil (Lipex Preact by AarhusKarlhamn) 6.5 Hydrogenated Myristyl Olives (Phytowax Olive 14L48 from Sophim) 1.94 Hydrogenated Stearyl Olives (Phytowax Olive 18L57 from Sophim) 1.94 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Lipex Shea by AarhusKarlhamn) 18.58 Oryza Sativa (rice) starch (Remy DR I Irradiated by Beneo-Remy) 0.98 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 29.75

This tool is applied to the lips, which leads to a lighter lip color. In this case, another product may be applied as a second action if the product is a non-opaque lip gloss.

Claims (16)

1. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for brightening and / or uniformizing the color of the skin and / or lips, comprising applying to the skin or lips, especially to the skin of the face and / or eye shadow, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition containing (i) at least non-interfering scattering white particles, where the particles have an average volumetric size (D50) of 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, and are present in an amount of 4 % to 8% relative to the total weight of the composition, and (ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to 2.3. 2. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is applied on its own or before applying the care product or cosmetic product. 3. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic composition does not contain additional white particles, in particular particles of titanium dioxide. 4. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that said cosmetic composition further comprises a surfactant. 5. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that said cosmetic composition further comprises wax. 6. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is in the form of an emulsion "water in oil" or "oil in water". 7. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-interfering scattering white particles are selected from boron nitride, composite particles including titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from aluminum oxide, quartz, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica, poly particles (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), particles of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) or mixtures thereof, where the particles are characterized by a refractive index (RI) of from 1.7 to 2.2. 8. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-interfering scattering white particles are boron nitride. 9. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-interfering scattering white particles comprise from 1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and in particular from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total the weight of the specified composition. 10. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that said cosmetic composition further comprises at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from exfoliating components, moisturizing components, depigmenting components, bleaching components, pigmenting components, anti-glycation components, NO- inhibitors synthases, components that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or that prevent their destruction, components that stimulate proliferation fibroblast or keratinocyte formation and / or keratinocyte differentiation, tightening components, components, relaxing muscles, components to combat the effects of contamination or free radicals, components that act on microcirculation, components that affect cell energy metabolism, or organic photoprotective components or inorganic sun protection components that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B regions of the spectrum. 11. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment, (i) at least non-interfering scattering white particles, which are characterized by an average volumetric size (D50) of from 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of from 1.7 to 2.2, in an amount of from 4% to 8 % by weight relative to the total weight of the specified composition, (ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to 2.3. 12. The use of an effective amount of non-interfering scattering white particles, which are characterized by an average volumetric size (D50) of 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, in particular boron nitride particles, in a cosmetic compositions where the particles are present in an amount of from 4% to 8% relative to the total weight of the composition, as a means to brighten and / or uniformize the color of the skin and / or lips, in particular lightening the complexion, in particular with an immediate effect.