Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/32—Burseraceae (Frankincense family)
  • A61K36/324—Boswellia, e.g. frankincense
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
  • A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Definitions

• the invention relates to cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to topical compositions that are useful in enhancing the function of the skin's natural lipid barrier.
• Skin is typically characterized as consisting of three distinct layers, namely the stratum corneum, the epidermis and the dermis.
• the stratum corneum the outermost layer, is made up of keratinized, cells, surrounded by intercellular space filled with lipids.
• the stratum corneum provides a substantial physical barrier to penetration of most substances to the lower layers of the skin.
• this harrier also aids in prevention of water loss from the skin. Both functions are primarily attributable to the presence of the lipids in the stratum corneum.
• the skin surface lipids are a diverse group of compounds, comprising triglycerides, diglycerides, ceramides, free fatty acids, wax esters, cholesterol and cholesterol esters, and squalene.
• the quantity and composition of the skin surface lipids differ from place to place on the body, and may to some extent be related, to the number of sebaceous glands in a given area of the skin.
• the condition of the skin surface lipids may also he affected by an essential fatty acid deficiency.
• the lipid barrier is easily diminished by exposure to harsh detergents or soaps, it is apparent, then, that the quality of the skin lipid barrier can vary widely, depending on a number of different factors, and therefore, may not always be adequate to perform its protective function optimally.
• cosmetic compositions frequently incorporate components which compensate for water loss.
• hygroscopic humectants e.g., urea or propylene glycol, which hold water on the skin
• emollients e.g., oleyl alcohol or caprylic/capric triglycerides.
• Certain cosmetic components may be occlusive skin conditioners, which are used to provide an “artificial” barrier; such compounds are frequently lipids which remain on the skin surface, and include various hydrogenated oils, waxes and butters.
• the invention relates to cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions comprising lipid barrier-enhancing effective amounts of at least one protease inhibitor and at least one cellular differentiation enhancer.
• the composition can also comprise, in a preferred embodiment, effective amounts of a sterol sulfate, an at least one naturally occurring skin, lipid component.
• the composition of the invention can be used in a method for strengthening the natural lipid barrier of the skin, as well as other methods of skin treatment that are made possible by the strengthening of the barrier.
• compositions of the invention can strengthen the lipid barrier at least about 40%, relative to a placebo control, as measured by a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after a barrier challenge, a standard measurement of barrier function.
• TEWL transepidermal water loss
• the compositions are capable of reducing TEWL at least about 50%, more preferably at least about 60%, and most preferably at least about 70%.
• the invention incorporates as essential elements a protease inhibitor and a cellular differentiation enhancer.
• Protease inhibitors are compounds, usually naturally occurring, which inhibit the action of proteases in the skin. Skin proteases also occur, naturally, and, among other effects, are involved in the breaking down of the collagen and elastin that is required to maintain the healthy appearance of skin, in the present case, the protease inhibitors used in the invention are thought to act by preventing the breakage of the desmosome bond between corneocytes at the skin surface, thereby keeping the outer layer of skin cells intact, in essence delaying desquamation. This skin layer provides a barrier to water loss, and the enhanced retention of the barrier by the delay of desquamation provides reinforces this barrier to the loss of water further. A variety of protease inhibitors are known.
• protease inhibitors include, but are not limited to, triterpenoid-containing extracts and refined compounds, for example,, white birch bark extract, silver birch bark extract, Boswellia extract, bearberry extract, Centella asiatica extract, or Pygeum (Prunus) africanum extract and individual protease inhibitor compounds that may foe present in these extracts, including betulinol (betulin), foetulinic acid, boswellic acid, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanol, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madagassic acid; phenolic-containing extracts, such as green tea extracts and apple extracts, and compounds contained therein, such as EGCG, EGG, cacechins, phenylpropanoids, and phloretin; protein-based extracts, such as soy protein, or egg protease inhibitors, or cholesterol sulfate and phytosterol sulfates.
• the amount of active material used will vary depending upon the whether an extract or isolated compound is used, the concentration of active material in a given extract, and the known potency of the active material. However, the concentration of active protease inhibitor in the final product should generally be between about 0.001 to about 10%, preferably about 0.05 to about 5%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 1%, by weight of the total composition.
• the second component is a cellular differentiation enhancer.
• Such compounds act in the present invention to increase the ability of the relevant epidermal cells to synthesize the lipids that constitute the primary component of the barrier.
• the epidermal cells that produce lipids do not do so during their entire life cycle, however, but do so only at the point of differentiation. If this differentiation is delayed to the point, at which the epidermal cells reach their terminal point in migration, to the skin surface, the production of lipids is concurrently delayed, and therefore, their effect, if any, is diminished.
• the differentiation enhancers used in the invention stimulate the earlier production of lipids from epidermal cells, thereby increasing the length of time, over which the lipids are being produced, and presumably concurrently increasing the lipid content of the barrier.
• cellular differentiation inhibitors include, but are not limited to sclareolide, forskolin, 7-dehydrocholesterol, and Vitamin D3analogs.
• the differentiation enhancer also will be used in amount consistent with its known activity, 0.001 to 10%, preferably about 0.0025 to about 5%, more preferably about 0.05 to about 1%, by weight of the total composition.
• the combination of the protease inhibitor and the differentiation enhancer is shown to have a strong effect on barrier repair when compared with control vehicles and with other compounds commonly used in skin enhancement. Specifically, on skin that had been challenged with tape stripping, it was found that combination of these two components exhibits about a 50% increase in barrier repair, as measurable by transepidermal water loss, in comparison with the placebo, after a period of three days. Thus, this combination on its own is shown to be able to increase barrier function substantially.
• the noted combination is highly effective on its own, it has been further shown that the combination achieves even further enhancement of barrier function by its combination with, certain other skin enhancement compounds. More specifically, the combination with one or more of certain specific skin enhancers.
• the barrier repair combination is further combined with cholesterol sulfate, which in the present specification and claims is intended to refer to the corresponding plant-derived material, phytosterol sulfate.
• Cholesterol sulfate as described in Applicants' copending application Ser. No. 09/246,607, incorporated herein by reference, also has an effect on the skin, by increasing the cohesion of the stratum corneum.
• the amount of cholesterol sulfate employed is preferably about 0.05 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5%, most preferably about 1 to about 3%, by weight of the total composition.
• the composition also contain other components of the naturally occurring lipid barrier.
• the cholesterol sulfate is combined with at least, one of each of fatty acids, ceramides, and a sterol, preferably cholesterol or phytosterol.
• Fatty acids may be up to 24 carbon atoms in length. Examples of preferred fatty acids include butyric acid, caproic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid. Particularly preferred are fatty acids with a C 12 to C 20 chain length.
• the ceramides to be employed in the compositions of the invention are sphingolipids, having a sphingesine or related molecule backbone with fatty acids or ⁇ -esterified fatty acids linked to an amino group on the sphingosine, and in some cases, with saccharide moieties linked to the terminal hydroxyl of the sphingesine.
• the compositions may contain ⁇ -esterified ceramides or acylceramides, cereforosides, ⁇ -esterified cerebrosides, or acylglycosyl sphingolipids.
• Particularly preferred types of ceramides for the present compositions are ceramide III and cerehrosides.
• the lipid components each can be used in an amount of from about 0.05 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to about 5%, most preferably about 1 to about 3%, all by weight of the total composition.
• the cholesterol sulfate and the lipid components are present in substantially equal amounts in the composition. It will be understood from the foregoing that the lipid component need not be pure lipid, but rather may be natural extracts containing one or more desirable lipids, and used in amounts consistent with attaining the concentrations recommended above.
• compositions in effecting barrier repair or maintaining the integrity of the skin's outer layer can be applied to a number of different uses.
• the compositions can be used to treat any condition in which a deficient or faulty barrier is a factor.
• the compositions can foe used to improve the long term moisture retention of the skin, or in prevention or treatment of dry skin conditions generally, or specific dry skin conditions, such as result from regular exposure to detergents, soaps and hot water; seasonal exposure to harsh weather conditions, e.g., cold, wind and/or sun; occupational exposure to harsh chemicals or other drying or damaging agents; or pathological conditions such as eczematous dermatides, psoriasis, ichthyoses, xerosis and the like.
• compositions can be used in prevention of further damage to aging skin, or treatment and/or reversal of already present damage, including the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which, are frequently associated with dry skin and the thinning of the stratum corneum that occurs with age.
• the compositions can also be used in the treatment of a defective skin barrier, such, as occurs on the soles of the feet, and palms of the hands, where the stratum corneum is very thick, but the lipid barrier is poor.
• defective skin barriers frequently occur in association with burns, wounds, blisters, stasis ulcers and bedsores; such injuries can be expected to benefit from application of the compositions.
• compositions of the invention are in reduction of the skin's response to irritants and sensitizers.
• a significant percentage of the population considers itself to have sensitive skin, in that they perceive a frequent, stinging or painful response to various elements to which the skin may be exposed, be it through makeup or skin care products, environmental stimuli such as smoke or pollution, or occupational exposure to chemicals.
• environmental stimuli such as smoke or pollution
• occupational exposure to chemicals even normal skin can have a reaction to exposure to known irritants, such as acids.
• the application of the compositions of the invention by increasing the integrity of the barrier, can reduce the reactivity of the skin of both normal and sensitive individuals to irritants and sensitizers, in one embodiment, for example, the compositions can be used to reduce the reaction of the skin to the irritation caused by therapeutic acids such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinoic acid, and the like, or to reduce the irritation caused by insect bites or stings, or alleviate the irritation experienced with contact dermatitis.
• therapeutic acids such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinoic acid, and the like
• the increased cohesion of the stratum corneum brought about by the compositions of the invention also provides other benefits.
• the stratum corneum represents an important physical barrier between the environment and the deeper skin layers as well as the internal organs. The presence of this thicker layer thus will provide a greater level of protection than is possible with weaker barrier. Perhaps the most important aspect of this effect is the enhanced self-protection from UV rays.
• the thicker stratum corneum means an increase in the Minimal Erythemal Dose of UV which will result in sunburn or more serious skin damage.
• the components of the invention may foe beneficially combined with one or more sunscreens for an enhanced UV protective composition which provides both short- and long-term protection.
• the invention provides sunscreen compositions comprising effective amounts of the components of the composition of the invention, and one or more sunscreens.
• sunscreens include, but are not limited to, inorganic sunscreens such as titanium dioxide, sine oxide, and iron oxide; and organic sunscreens, such as camphor derivatives, cinnamates, salicylates, benaophenones, triazines, PABA derivatives, diphenylacrylate derivatives, and dibenzoylmethane derivatives.
• the components of the invention are present in the amounts described above, and the respective sunscreens are present in the amounts normally used for UV protection.
• compositions of the invention are in the enhancement and prolongation of self-tanning products.
• DHA dihydroxyacetone
• DHA dihydroxyacetone
• the invention provides a self-tanning composition comprising a protease inhibitor, a cell-differentiation enhancer, and an effective amount of a self-tanning agent, optionally containing cholesterol sulfate and the lipid component.
• the self-tanner is DHA, which is usually applied in an amount of from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight of the formulation.
• the self-tanner may also be imidazole, preferably in combination with. DHA, in an amount of about 1-10%, preferably about 1.5-7.5%.
• compositions of the invention are employed in a manner appropriate to the intended final use of the product.
• the compositions can he used on an as-needed basis until the condition is relieved.
• a more permanent condition for example, a condition associated with a defective or deficient lipid barrier, particularly sensitive skin, dry skin associated with any type of aging, or the wrinkling or fine lines associated with a thinning of the stratum corneum with aging, the composition, is preferably applied chronically, to prevent recurrence of the condition.
• topical application of the composition in an amount of from about 0.1 mg/cm 2 to 2 mg/cm 2 of skin, be performed, from about once per week to about 4 or 5 times daily, preferably from about 3 times a week to about 3 times daily, most preferably about once or twice per day.
• chronic it is meant, herein that the period of topical application may be over the lifetime of the user, preferably for a period of at least about one month, more preferably from about three months to about twenty years, more preferably from about six months to about ten years, more preferably still from about one year to about five years, thereby resulting in the treatment or prevention of the condition in question.
• composition When used in conjunction with a sunscreen, it is applied in the same amounts as specified above, on an as-needed basis, to mitigate the effects of exposure to the sun. When used in combination with a self-tanner, the composition is also applied in similar amounts, on the portion of the skin to be tanned, with repetition, again, on an as-needed basis.
• the subjects are acclimated in an environmental room at 40% relative humidity and 70° C. for 15-20minutes.
• a 5 cm by 1 cm area is marked on the lower right cheek near the jaw line and initial water evaporation measurements are taken in three separate spots approximately 1 cm apart in a row.
• Five cm of cello-tape is placed on the skin in the outlined area, starting from the top of the cheek and after one firm stroke in each direction it is removed by gently pulling in a downward direction parallel to the skin.
• the procedure is repeated and water evaporation is measured after every five strips until the barrier is disrupted as indicated by a minimum of 18 g/sq.m hr on one of the three spots. Both sides of the face are stripped in the same way.
• the subjects returned for TEWL evaluation 1, 2 and 3 days after tape stripping of the skin to monitor the repair,
• Barrier repair is evaluated by first challenging the skin as described above. One side is product-treated 2 times a day, and the other is the untreated control. Repair is measured in the increase in the recovery of the skin on the stripped and treated site compared to the stripped untreated site. From this, total repair is calculated over three days by calculating the change in the area parameter, The smaller the area, the taster the repair.
• Treatment products are (1) a composition containing 0.1% sclareolide and 0.2% white birch extract; (2) a composition containing 0.1% sclareolide and 0.2% boswellic acid; (3) a composition containing 0.2% each of phytocohesine (phytosterol sulfate), ceramides (wheat-derived ceramides), boswellic acid, cholesterol, and linoleic acid, and 0.1% sclareolide.
• the results obtained indicate for composition (1), barrier repair is 50% over placebo; for composition (2), repair is 59% over placebo, and composition (3) is shows barrier repair at 78% over the placebo, each composition therefore showing substantial efficacy in barrier repair.

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• 2000
  • 2000-04-04 DE DE60014180T patent/DE60014180T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
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  • 2000-04-04 KR KR1020017015406A patent/KR100596595B1/ko active IP Right Grant
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