LU87171A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS REGENERATING THE SKIN AND THEIR PREPARATION METHOD - Google Patents

Description

L-3224 *

* Λ. 4 τΓ | 4 GRAND-DUCHY OF LUXEMBOURG

Patent N ° O / 1 / Ί fffe 'Minister of ...! § March 1988 r ^ rSzi' Economy and the Middle Classes ......, 3¼¾¾ Intellectual Property Service

LUXEMBOURG

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Island Patent Application ^^ »tÎoii ...............------------------------- ------------------------------.................... .... The 2 '0 ^ LrA (î) I. Request \

Caola ...... Kozmetikai ...... es ...... Hàztartàsvegyipari Vàllalai ^ '^ ur ^ Bocskai (2) ut, H-Budapest, represented by Monsieur Jean Waxweiler, 55 ..... ....

rue des Bruyères, Howaïd, acting as agent ....................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .......... (3) deposit) this eighteenth of March one thousand nine hundred and eighty-eight ____________________________ (4) at --... / .. 9.9 ......... ... hours, at the Ministry of the Economy and the Middle Classes, in Luxembourg: 1. this request for obtaining a patent for an invention concerning: C.ômpo.s..itiQna .... ..cQ..smé.tique..s ....... regenerating ....... the skin and. their process (5) of ...... preparation ..................................... .................................................. .................................................. .............................................

2. description in French ................ language ........................... ...................... of the invention in triplicate; 3 ......................... / ....................... ................... drawing boards, in triplicate; 4. the receipt of the taxes paid to the Luxembourg Registration Office on .1.? .... ΐ..9..3,, · 1.9.8..8 ______; 5. the delegation of power, dated ......................................... ................................................ the___________________________________________________; 6. the successor document (authorization); declare (s) assuming responsibility for this declaration, that the inventor (s) is (are): (6) see annex ___________________ claims (s) for the above patent application the priority of one (of ) request (s) for (7) ............................ patent ............ .................................................. ............................... filed in (8) „Hungary_____________________ on (9) ..... .... 1.8 ...... March ....... 19.8.1 __________________________________________________________________________________ under N ° (10) ... 1.1.7.,. 5 ,, /. 8.7 ____________________________________________________________________________________________ in the name of (11 ).? a9..1.a Kozmetikai és Hàztartàsvegyipari Vàllalat _ ____ elect (elect) domicile for him / her and, if appointed, for his / her representative, in Luxembourg_______ .... 5.5. ,Street of. Bruyères ..., ..- HowaleL .._________________________ (12) requests) the issuance of an invention patent for the subject described and represented in the abovementioned appendices, with postponement of this issuance to _______ _jl ________ 1..8 .. ./0------------------------------------- month. (13)

The representative: _____________________________________ ^ _______________________________________________ (14) \ Π. Deposit Minutes

The above application for a patent for invention has been filed with the Ministry of the Economy and the Middle Classes, Intellectual Property Service ^ M àiLp ^ embourg, dated: 18.03.1988 • / * / ¾¾¾¾¾. \ "S» Pr. The Minister of Economy and the Middle Classes, at Î - .. f..9.9 _______ hours f «· '' Έ) pd * \\ / jf s The head of the intellectual property department, A 68007_X. _

EXPLANATION OF THE DEPOSIT FORM

λ (1) if applicable "Application for certificate of addition to the main patent, to the main patent application No ............ of ......... ... ”- (2) enter the surname, first name, profession, it t A / jî address of the applicant, when the latter is an individual or corporate name, legal form, address of the head office, when the applicant is a legal person - (3) enter jrf 0> 7 f \ the surname, first name, address of the professional representative, industrial property attorney, with special powers, if applicable; "represented by ..... ....... acting as agent ”il î * '- (4) date of filing in full - (5) title of the invention - (6) enter the names, first names, addresses of the inventors or the indication "(see) separate designation (will follow)", when the desi- anitinn this fa · * rut CA tara étM un ΜαληΜΑΜ c £ tVk * 4 AU AfirnTA t'inftîratînn "fl A me M» ntï Ann Mn lAKnn » l'ÎmMntmir <Îon · nll «ίβπΑη HA Hnmtmpn, Λλ nnn.m.nlinn & inïnA ·«? » a lUfiamfinn * *

List of inventors

György BAKTAY, 10, Eötvös u., H-1153 Budapest

Dr. Péter LITERÂTI-NAGY, 38, VII u., H-1172 Budapest Gâbor SÛZOKI, € 8 / b. Vàci ut, H-1133 Budapest

Dr. György BLASKÖ, 32-34, Zöldlomb u., H-1025 Budapest

Julia JENEY, 19, Châzdr u.,. H-1146 Budapest Gâbor NEMETH, 48, Ssôkavar u., H-1147-Budapest

Dr. Mâria BOROSS, 4, Pauler u., H-1013 Budapest

Dr. Miklôs FABIAN, 17, Lukàcs Gy. U., H-1039 Budapest

Erzsébet PAKO, 16, Népezinhàz u., H-1081 Budapest

Dr. Làszlô BOGDANY, 36, Kerék u., H-1035 Budapest "λ [PRIORITY REUENDICfiTIQN Filing of the patent application in Hungary (Jul 18 March 1987 UNDER number 1175/87

DESCRIPTIVE MEMORY FILED IN SUPPORT OF A PATENT INVENTION APPLICATION TO THE GRAND DUCHY OF LUXEMBOURG

by; Caola Kozmetikai és Hàztartàsvegyipari Vàllalat 90, Bocskai ut Budapest Hungary

Cosmetic compositions regenerating the skin and their preparation process.

*

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions regenerating the skin as well as to their preparation.

The skin is one of the most important organs of the living organism, it is in permanent contact with the outside world and it is exposed to a wide variety of influences.

We know that ω-3 unsaturated fatty acids in £ \ $ - 22 have advantageous biological properties. Eicosapentaenolic acid (EPfl) and docosahexaenolic acid (DHfl) are remarkable among these. Dgerberg et al 1. [The Lancet 15, 117 10 ¢ 1978)] emphasized the importance and the multiple biological effects of the two acids.

The stabilization by glutathione of polyunsaturated fatty acids in compositions used for various food and cosmetic purposes, has been described in Japanese patent application Ho. 61.23599.

The ability of EPR and DHR to be incorporated into human skin fibroblasts has been described by Baherjee et al. [Biochim. and Biophys. Rcta 835, 533 ¢ 1985)].

The active components of fish oil, for example EPR and DHR, are precursors of biosynthesis of the PG-3 series and simultaneously inhibit the formation of harmful metabolites like TXFfc and originating from the so-called " cascade of arachidonic acid "which is a chain of complex processes starting from arach i don i que acid.

Another advantage of fish oil is that it contains in a native form vitamins such as vitamins f1 and D which are very important for the skin.

Numerous publications and patent specifications have been devoted to the biological effect of polyunsaturated acids, in particular EPR and DHR, such as the effects on the aggregation of platelets, tumor cells, arteriosis diseases and redox stages of several biochemical processes.

It is further known that algae have been used since time immemorial by mankind for the purposes of nutrition t 2 and feeding. Recently, the field of use of algae has greatly expanded because algae contain innumerable essential bioactive substances! like essential fatty acids! vitamins! prouita »inés, mucoprotélnes and polysaccharides. Algae have even been an important raw material in several industrial fields, such as the food industries, for the past decades. pharmaceutical and cosmetic.

fl this latter point, the possibilities of using seaweeds which are available in large quantities, were mainly reported by De Roeek and Holtzhauer [France and its perfumes 68 * 166 (1981)]. A number of cosmetic compositions have been prepared with algae. Such a solution has been described in the French patent specifications Ho. 2,212,990 and 2,426,404, as well as in the published Japanese patent applications Ho. 52.003835 and 60.013700.

In the last decade, we began to study the biological effects of microelements and trace elements. It has thus been learned that selenium is one of the most important and essential substances for life. The beneficial action of selenium is mainly based on its activation effect directed against the enzyme glutathione peroxidase, insofar as selenium is an essential constituent of the prosthetic group of this enzyme which is the most important endogenous inhibitor of the processes. harmful of peroxidation. Selenium is not accumulated in the body, so it must be supplied continuously. Until now, selenium has mainly been introduced into the body in the form of inorganic compounds, for example selenium dioxide or sodium selenite. A full report 30 on the biological effects of selenium has been published by Thressa et al. [Nutrition Revie * 35, 7 (1977)], Shamberger [J. of Approx. Path. and Tox. 4, 305 (1980)], as well as by Hasukawa et al.

[Experientia 39, 405 (1983)].

The object of the present invention is to provide a new cosmetic composition which combines the properties 3

Quantitative polyunsaturated ω-3 fatty acids, especially OHR, EPH, as well as acute and selenium.

The invention is based on the observation that the above object can be perfectly achieved by the use of algae containing selenium with polyunsaturated fatty acids.

The invention is further based on the finding that the selenium content of algae, used with unsaturated fatty acids and applied to the skin, is released such that the skin aging process is inhibited.

From the above, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for regenerating the skin, which comprises, as active components, from 0.5 to 4% by weight of algae containing selenium as well as from 99.5 to 60% by weight. mass of polyunsaturated fatty acids in admixture with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetic industry and optionally an antioxidant.

The composition preferably comprises ω-3 fatty acids having 18 to 22 carbon atoms, advantageously the 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid (EPR) and the acid 4,7,10,13, 16,19-docosahexaenoic (DHR) or their derivatives, preferably esters, lino-earth metal salts or amine salts, as unsaturated fatty acids.

The composition according to the present invention is suitably prepared in such a way that the fatty phase and the aqueous phase are made separately by heating until the fat-soluble components are melted, the water-soluble components are kept in aqueous solution at 80 ° C for 30 minutes and then combination of the two phases. Just before mixing, 30 R and E uitamines are added to the fatty phase and Hygroplex (manufacturer: CLR, West Berlin, Friedenau) is mixed with the aqueous phase. The mixing is carried out by pouring the aqueous phase into the fatty phase with vigorous stirring, then by mechanically stirring the cooled mixture at 50 ° C. for 1 to 2 additional minutes. The perfume and the chamomile extract are mixed k 4 with the ponaade with rapid stirring at 10 ° C. Then, the basket is cooled to the ambient temperature with continuous stirring.

The preparation of algae containing seiéniu · is described in the deaande patent of the Deianderesse filed 5 at the same time as the present application and corresponding to the Hungarian patent application No. 575/88.

Unsaturated fatty acids can be used as starting materials, oils obtained from various sea or freshwater fish, for example mackerel, cod, herring, sardine and squid oil . In addition, oils obtained from fish liver, for example cod liver oil, can be used preferably.

As a source of selenium, selenium-rich algae are used, the preparation of which is described in patent application 15 of the Applicant filed at the same time as the present: application corresponding to Hungarian patent application No. 575/88 .The algae rich in selenium are prepared by the cultivation of algae on a culture medium enriched with selenium compounds, while the selenium is accumulated in the organism of the developing algae. 20 The cosmetic additives used are, inter alia, stearoyl monoglyceride, Chremofor "fi · and" 0 "(manufacturer of both: BfiSF, Ludvigshafen, fiFfi), cetyl alcohol, octyl stearate, vitamins fi and E, glycerol, Hygropiex (manufacturer: CLR), perfumes and chamomile extract.

Preferably, a traditional antioxidant such as butylhydroxytoluene can be used.

The main advantages of the composition according to the present invention can be summarized as follows: a) The preferred properties of ΓΕΡΑ and DHfl as well as selenium and algae are combined by the components of the composition.

b) It contains selenium as a natural substance enriched in algae; the selenium administered with the alga is better absorbed and has more favorable effects.

C) The compositions containing an acute selenium-enriched can be very advantageously used for treating the skin and delaying or preventing, respectively, the aging of the skin tissue.

5 (j) iq composition exerts its effect directly on the skin, without any internal treatment.

e) In use, the alga contained in the composition releases its selenium content through the human skin and protects the skin against the harmful effects of malondialdehyde 10 which arises from radical peroxidation reactions taking place in the skin.

The invention is illustrated in detail by the following nonlimiting examples.

The components used as starting materials are prepared according to Examples 1, 2 and 3. The preparation of the compositions according to the invention is described in the other examples.

Example i 2 kg of sodium hydroxide are dissolved in litres liters of 95% ethanol and hot, supplemented with 10 kg of sardine oil. The mixture is heated at reflux under nitrogen for 2 hours and then cooled to 10 ° C. with stirring. The sodium salts of saturated fatty acids are precipitated. The crystals are filtered and washed with a little ethanol. The ethanolic filtrate is evaporated and then 20 liters of boiling water are added to the residue. Non-hydrolyzable compounds such as cholesterol are completely eliminated by extraction with 5 liters of hexane. The aqueous phase extracted is acidified to pH 2 by addition of dilute sulfuric acid and again extracted with 15 liters of hexane. The organic phase is washed with water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate and evaporated to give 3.2 kg of concentrated oil having a DHfl content of 36.8 * and an EPR content of 31.8%. This oil is brown and smells like fish. It is therefore mixed with fuller's earth, heated under nitrogen at 105 ° C for 10 minutes and filtered hot.

6

The deodorization is completed by vacuum steam distillation at 170 ° C / 1.3 bar for 3 hours, which gives 1.6 kg of a mixture of fatty acids practically odorless, tasteless, light yellow and of composition practically unchanged.

5

Example 2

8 kg of 40X sodium hydroxide solution is dropped dropwise at 50-60 ° C with stirring, into 24 kg of cod liver oil dissolved in 16 liters of methane at 60 ° C. The mixture is then stirred at 60 ° C for an additional 45 minutes. 20 kg of 15X hydrochloric acid are added to the solution at approximately 60 ° C. After phase separation, the organic phase is washed with 10 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid and then with 100 liters of hot tap water until neutral. The phases are again separated, 100 liters of acetone are added to the oily phase which is then heated to approximately 45 ° C. and added with a solution of 3.8 kg of lithium hydroxide monohydrate in 30 liters of water. After 30 minutes of stirring, the mixture is left to stand overnight, then filtered and the acetone filtrate is evaporated. The residue is acidified by adding approximately 8 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid, extracted 3 times with hexane and evaporated. A nitrogen atmosphere is used during the whole purification operation. 6.4 kg of purified fish oil are thus obtained having an iodine number of 258 and an acid number of 160.

One kg of cod liver oil purified as described above is added dropwise at 60 ° C. to a solution containing 3 kg of urea in 9 liters of methane. The mixture is stirred at the same temperature for 2 hours and then cooled. It is left to stand at -10 ° C overnight, then filtered and the filtrate is evaporated. 2.5 liters of 1: 1 hydrochloric acid are added to the residue and the mixture is stirred for 15 minutes. After extraction with hexane, the hexane phase is washed with water until neutral, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate 35 and evaporated to give 0.34 kg of d'ac-3 unsaturated fatty acids having a number 7 iodine of 315, containing 243! from EPfl and 123! of DHfl.

Exeiple 3 40 mg of sodium selenite are added to 8 liters of 5 liters of Knop-Pringshe11 syrup. Introdu11 in a glass vial of seaweed culture with a used volume of 10 liters. The culture system thus obtained is sterilized at 121 ° C under an overpressure of 1 bar for 30 minutes. The sterile solution is cooled and inoculated with a culture of pure algae of Scenedesmus obtisiusculus 10 resistant to selenium. Sterile air containing 53 is bubbled! in a volume of carbon dioxide through the culture medium at 25% while the system is illuminated with an electric discharge tube working with 4000 lux at a wavelength of 440 to 520 and from 640 to 700 pm. After a culture period of 14 days, the alga is separated from the culture medium. The algae bass thus obtained is decomposed by ultrasound and dried carefully at a temperature below 65 ° C. to give an algae powder having a selenium content of 1200 pg / g.

Example 4 100 g of seaweed powder containing selenium (selenium content: 260 pg / g of seaweed powder) are added to 150 g of a cod liver oil enriched with 65% (containing 223! D 'EPR and 43% DHR). After homogenization, 0.5% of vitamin E is added to the mixture. The homogenate thus obtained is used as an active component for the preparation of day and night creams, moisturizing and regenerating the skin, as well as for an anti cream. - wrinkles for the eyes.

Example 5 The homogenate prepared according to Example 4 is mixed with the following components:

Komogenate from Example 4 2.00 35 stearoyl ilonoglyceride 5.00 (8

Creaophor fl (BASF) 2.00

Creaophor 0 (BASF) 2.00 fl Cetyl alcohol 2.00

Cetety stearate 10.00 5 Uitaaines fl + E 1.00

Water 65.60

Giycerol 4.00

Phenonip (HIP Laboratorien, Berkin Ouest, Schöneberg) 0.20 Hygroplex (CLR) 5.00 10 Caaoaille extract, 60X 1.00

ParfuB 0.30

A creae is prepared from the above coaposants in a known manner according to the following cosmetics practice: a) Preparation of the fatty phase

The mixture of stearoyie aonoglyceride, Creaophor R, Creaophor 0, d * RI fol and Cet 1 868 is heated to 76-80 ° C until coaplete fusion of the coaposants. The layers R and E are added before mixing the fatty phase with the aqueous phase.

b) Preparation of the aqueous phase

The glycerol is heated with Phenonip, the algae concentrate and water at 80 ° C for 30 minutes and the Hygroplex is added to the system before mixing from the fatty phase to the aqueous phase.

c) The aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase with rapid stirring, the mixture is stirred mechanically for 2 minutes and then further stirred.

d) The mixture is again mechanically mixed at 30 ° C. for 1 to 2 minutes.

e) The perfume and the cocoa extract are added at 40 ° C to the mixture which is then subjected to vigorous stirring.

f) The cream thus obtained is slowly cooled to the ambient temperature with stirring.

»9

Example 6

The process described in Example 4 is followed, except that the homogenate (amounting to 2.0 parts by mass of the final product) is mixed with the following components: 5 mixture of esters of C 2 H acid mono-, di- and tri (alkyl tetraglycolether) -o-phosphonic (Hostaphat KL 340 Hj HOECHST, Frankfurt a.fl., FRG) 4.00 parts by mass 10 Decyl oleate 4.00 parts by mass

White oil (petrolatum oil) 6.00 parts by mass

Water qs 100.00 parts by mass

Sodium salt of a copolymer based on acrylic acid / acrylonamide 15 (Hostacerin PH 73; HOECHST) 0.60 parts by mass

Phenonip (HIP Laboratorien) 0.30 part by mass

Perfume 0.30 part by mass

A cosmetic body care composition is prepared from the above components in a manner known in cosmetic practice and as described in Example 5.

Claims (5)

1. Cosmetic co-position regenerating the skin, characterized in that it comprises 0.5 to 4QX in Acute bass containing selenium · and 99.5 to 60X in Bass of unsaturated fatty acids or derivatives thereof , in Bélange with supports and / or additives couraBBent used in the food industry and possibly an antioxidant. 2. CoBposition according to claim 1, characterized in that it coaprends fatty acids a> -3 in Cjg-22 10 as unsaturated fatty acids. 3. CoBposition according to claim 2, characterized in that it co-takes 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid as unsaturated fatty acids. 4. Coaposition according to claim 1, characterized in that it coaprend esters, salts of al calino-earthly metals or groin salts as derivatives of fatty acids. 5. Process for the preparation of a cosaetic co-position regenerating the skin according to claim 1, characterized in that it co-takes the Bélange from 0.5 to 40X in a cup of acute containing selenium and from 99.5 to 60 Low% of unsaturated fatty acids or derivatives thereof, with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosaetic industry and optionally an antioxidant, according to a known den common in the cosaetic industry.