FR2612396A1 - SKIN REGENERATING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

THESE SKIN REGENERATING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS ARE CHARACTERIZED IN THAT THEY COMPRISE 0.5 TO 40 BY MASS OF ALGAE CONTAINING SELENIUM AND 99.5 TO 60 BY MASS OF UNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS OR DERIVATIVES THEREOF, IN MIXTURE WITH SUPPORTS AND OR ADDITIVES COMMONLY USED IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY AND OPTIONALLY AN ANTIOXIDANT.

Description

The present invention relates to compositions

  cosmetics regenerating the skin and their preparation.

  The skin is one of the most important organs of the living organism, in constant contact with the outside world and exposed to a wide variety of influences. It is known that unsaturated C18-22 fatty acids have advantageous biological properties. Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) are remarkable among them. Dyerberg and coil. [The Lancet 15, 117 (1978)] emphasized the importance and the multiple effects

of both acids.

  The stabilization by glutathione of polyunsaturated fatty acids in compositions used for various food and cosmetic purposes, has been described in the application of

Japanese Patent No. 61.23599.

  The ability of EPA and DHRA to be incorporated into the fibroblasts of human skin has been described by Baherjee and

  coi, [Biochim. and Biophys. Acta 835, 533 (1955)].

  The active components of fish oil, for example EPA and DHR, are precursors of PG-3 series biosynthesis and simultaneously they inhibit the formation of harmful metabolites such as TXA2 and TXB2J from the so-called cascade of arachidonic acid which is a process chain

  complicated biologics from arachidonic acid.

  Another advantage of fish oil is that it contains in a native form, vitamins such as

  vitamins A and D which are very important for the skin.

  Numerous publications and patent specifications have been devoted to the biological effect of polyunsaturated acids, in particular EPA and DHR, such as the effects on aggregation of platelets, tumor cells, arteriosclerotic diseases and stages. redox

several biochemical processes.

  It is also known that algae have been used since time immemorial by humanity for nutrition purposes

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  and feeding. Recently, the field of use of algae has greatly expanded because algae contain innumerable essential bioactive substances, such as essential fatty acids, vitamins, provitamins, mucoproteins and polysaccharides. Since the last decades, seaweeds have been an important raw material in many industrial fields, such as the food industry.

pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

  In the latter case, the possibilities of using marine algae, which are available in large quantities, were mainly reported by De Roeek and Holtzhauer [France and its perfumes 68, 166 (1981)]. A number of cosmetic compositions have been prepared with algae. Such a solution has been described in French Patent Specification Nos. 2,242,990 and 2,426,404, as well as in published Japanese patent applications.

Ho. 52.003835 and 60.013700.

  This last decade, we began to study the biological effects of microelements and trace elements. It has been learned that selenium is one of the most important and indispensable substances in life. The beneficial action of selenium is mainly based on its activation effect directed against the enzyme glutathione peroxidase, since selenium is an indispensable constituent of the prosthetic group of this enzyme, which is the most important endogenous inhibitor of harmful processes. peroxidation. Selenium is not accumulated in the body, so it must be supplied continuously. So far, selenium has been mainly introduced into the body in the form of inorganic compounds, for example selenium dioxide or sodium selenite. A comprehensive report on the biological effects of selenium has been published by Thressa and

  al. [Nutrition Review 35, 7 (1977)], Shamberger [J. of Env. Path.

  and Tox. 4, 305 (1980)], as well as by Masukawa et al.

[Experientia 39, 405 (1983)].

  The present invention aims to provide a new cosmetic composition, which combines the properties

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  of the polysunsaturated fatty acids, in particular

  DHR, EPR, as well as algae and selenium.

  The invention is based on the finding that the above purpose can be fully achieved by the use of algae containing selenium with polyunsaturated fatty acids. The invention is further based on the finding that the selenium content of algae, used with unsaturated fatty acids and applied to the skin, is released so that the aging process of the skin is

inhibited.

  From the above, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition regenerating the skin, which comprises as active components from 0.5 to 40% by weight of selenium-containing alga and from 99.5 to 60 % by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids mixed with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetics industry and optionally

an antioxidant.

  The composition preferably comprises w-3 fatty acids having 18 to 22 carbon atoms, advantageously the acid

  5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and the acid 4,7,10,13,16,19-

  The composition of the present invention is suitably prepared such that the phase of the present invention is suitably prepared such that the phase of the present invention is suitably prepared. The fat and the aqueous phase are separately heated by melting the fat-soluble components, maintaining the water-soluble components in aqueous solution at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes and then combining the two phases. Just before mixing, vitamins R and E are added to the fat phase and Hygroplex (manufacturer: CLR, West Berlin, Friedenau) is mixed with the aqueous phase. Mixing is carried out by pouring the aqueous phase into the fatty phase with vigorous stirring and then mechanically stirring the cooled mixture at 50 ° C. for an additional 1 to 2 minutes. The perfume and the chamomile extract are mixed with the ointment under fast stirring at 40OC, Then, the mass is

  cooled to room temperature with continuous stirring.

  The preparation of algae containing selenium is described in the Applicant's patent application filed at the same time as the present application and corresponding to the

  Hungarian Patent Application No. 575/88.

  As unsaturated fatty acid starting materials, oils obtained from various marine or freshwater fish may be employed, for example mackerel, cod, herring, sardine and squid oil. . In addition, oils obtained from the liver of fish, for example liver oil

  cod, can be used preferably.

  Selenium-rich algae, the preparation of which is described in the application, are used as a source of selenium.

  patent of the plaintiff filed at the time of the present

  The richlyselenium-rich algae arepreparedbythegrowth of algae on a culture medium enriched with selenium compounds, while selenium is added to the salt-rich algae.

  is accumulated in the body of algae developing.

  Among the cosmetic additives used are, inter alia, stearoyl monoglyceride, Chremofor "A" and "O" (the manufacturer of both: BRSF, Ludsigshafen, FRG), cetyl alcohol, octyl stearate, vitamins A and E, glycerol, Hygroplex

  (manufacturer: CLR), perfumes and chamomile extract.

  An antioxidant can preferably be used

  traditional as butylhydroxytoluene.

  The main advantages of the composition according to the present invention can be summarized as follows: a) The preferred properties of EPA and DHA as well as selenium and algae are combined by the components of the composition. (b) It contains selenium as a natural substance enriched in algae; the selenium administered with the alga is better absorbed and has a more favorable effect

advantageous.

  c) The compositions containing a selenium-enriched alga may be very advantageously used to treat the skin and to delay or avoid, respectively, the aging of the skin.

cutaneous tissue.

  d) The composition exerts its effect directly on the skin, without

any internal treatment.

  e) In use, the alga contained in the composition releases its selenium content through human skin and protects the skin against the deleterious effects of malondialdehyde resulting from free radical peroxidation reactions.

drop in the skin.

  The invention is illustrated in detail by the examples

following non-limiting

  The components used as starting materials are prepared according to Examples 1, 2 and 3. The preparation of the compositions according to the invention is described in the other

examples.

Example 1

  20.2 kg of sodium hydroxide are dissolved in 70 liters of 95% ethanol and hot, plus 10 kg of sardine oil. The mixture is refluxed under nitrogen for 2 hours and then cooled to 10 ° C with stirring. The sodium salts of the saturated fatty acids are precipitated. The crystals are filtered and washed with a little ethanol. The ethanolic filtrate is evaporated and then 20 liters of boiling water are added to the residue. Non-hydrolyzable compounds such as cholesterol are completely removed by extraction with 5 liters of hexane. The extracted aqueous phase is acidified to pH 2 by the addition of dilute sulfuric acid and again extracted with 15 liters of hexane. The organic phase is washed with water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulphate and evaporated to give 3.2 kg of concentrated oil with a DHA content of 36.8% and an EPA content of 31.86%. . This oil is brown and smells like fish. It is therefore mixed with fuller's earth,

  heated under nitrogen at 105 ° C. for 10 minutes and filtered while hot.

  The deodorization is completed by steam distillation under vacuum at 170 ° C / 1.3 bar for 3 hours, giving 1.6 kg of a substantially odorless, tasteless, yellow-colored fatty acid mixture.

  clear and virtually unchanged composition.

  EXAMPLE 2 8 kg of 40% sodium hydroxide solution are dropped to 50-60 ° C with stirring in 24 kg.

  of cod liver oil dissolved in 16 liters of methanol at 60 C.

  The mixture is then stirred at 60 ° C. for an additional 45 minutes. 20 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid are added to the solution at about 60 ° C. After separation of the phases, the organic phase is washed with 10 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid and

  then with 160 liters of hot tap water until neutral.

  The phases are again separated, 100 liters of acetone are added to the oily phase which is then heated to about 45 C and added with a solution of 3.8 kg of lithium hydroxide monohydrate in 30 liters of water. After stirring for 30 minutes, the mixture is left to stand overnight, then filtered and the acetone filtrate is evaporated. The residue is acidified by addition of about 8 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid, extracted 3 times with hexane and evaporated. A nitrogen atmosphere is used throughout the purification process. 6.4 kg of purified fish oil with an iodine value of 258 and a

of acid of 160.

  One kg of the cod liver oil purified as described above is added dropwise at 60 ° C. to a solution containing 3 kg of urea in 9 liters of methanol. The mixture is stirred at the same temperature for 2 hours and then cooled. It is left standing at -10 ° C overnight, then filtered and the filtrate is evaporated. 2.5 liters of acid are added

  hydrochloric acid 1: 1 to the residue and stirred the mixture for 15 minutes.

  After extraction with hexane, the hexane phase is washed with water until neutral, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate and evaporated to give 0.34 kg of--3 unsaturated fatty acids.

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  an iodine value of 315, containing 24% EPA and 42% DHA.

Example 3

  mg of sodium selenite are added to 8 liters of milleu of Knop-Pringsheim culture introduced into a glass bottle of algae culture having a volume of 10 liters. The culture system thus obtained is sterilized at 121 ° C. under an overpressure of 1 bar for 30 minutes. The sterile solution is cooled and inoculated with a pure algae culture of Scenedesmus obtisiusculus resistant to selenium. Sterile air containing% by volume of carbon dioxide is bubbled through the culture medium at C, while the system is illuminated with an electric discharge tube working with 4000 lux at a wavelength of 440. at 520 and from 640 to 700 pm. After a 14-day culture period, the algae is separated from the culture medium. The mass of algae thus obtained is decomposed by ultrasound and carefully dried at a temperature below 65 C to give a seaweed powder having

  a selenium content of 1200 μg / g.

Example 4

  g of seaweed powder containing selenium (selenium content: 260 μg / g of seaweed powder) are added to 150 g of a 65% enriched cod liver oil (containing 22% EPR and 43% % of DHA). After homogenization, the mixture is supplemented with 0.5% of vitamin E. The homogenate thus obtained is used as an active component for the preparation of day and night creams, moisturizing and regenerating the skin, as well as for an anti-aging cream. wrinkles for the eyes.

Example 5

  The homogenate prepared according to Example 4 is mixed with the following components: Homogenate of Example 4 2.00 Stearoyl monoglyceride 5.00 Cremophor A (BRSF) 2.00 Cremophor 0 (BRSF) 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 2, 00 Cetyl stearate 10.00 Uitamines A + E 1.00 Water 65.60 Glycerol 4.00 Phenonip (HIP Laboratorien, Berkin West, Schoneberg) 0.20 Hygroplex (CLR) 5.00 Chamomile extract, 60% 1, Perfume 0.30 A cream is prepared from the above components in a known manner according to the following cosmetic practice: a) Preparation of the fatty phase The mixture of stearoyl monoglyceride, Cremophor R, Cremophor O, Rlfol and Cetiol 868 is heated to 76-80 C until complete melting of the components. Vitamins R and E are

  added before mixing the fatty phase with the aqueous phase.

  b) Preparation of the aqueous phase Glycerol is heated with Phenonip, seaweed concentrate and water at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes and Hygroplex is added to the system before mixing the fatty phase with the phase

aqueous.

  c) The aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase with rapid stirring, the mixture is stirred mechanically for 2 hours.

  minutes and then still shaken by hand.

  d) The mixture is again mechanically mixed with

50 C for 1 to 2 minutes.

  e) The perfume and chamomile extract are added to

   C to the mixture which is then subjected to vigorous stirring.

  f) The cream thus obtained is slowly cooled to

  room temperature with stirring.

  EXAMPLE 6 The procedure described in Example 4 is followed except that the homogenate (amounting to 2.0 parts by weight of the final product) is mixed with the following components: C12-14 Ester Blend mono acid,

  di- and tri (alkyl-tetraglycol ether) - -

  o-Phosphonic (Hostaphat KL 340 H, HOECHST, Frankfurt aM, FRG) 4.00 parts by mass Decylate 4.00 parts by weight White oil (Vaseline oil) 6.00 parts by weight Water qs 100,00 parts by weight Sodium salt of a copolymerizate based on acrylic acid / acrylamide (Hostacerin PN 73, HOECHST) 0.60 part by weight Phenonip (Laboratorian NIP) 0.30 parts by weight Perfume 0.30 parts by weight A cosmetic composition of body care is prepared from the above components in a known manner in

  the cosmetic practice and as described in Example 5.

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  Reagents 1. Cosmetic composition regenerating the skin, characterized in that it comprises 0.5 to 40% by weight of algae containing selenium and 99.5 to 60% by weight of unsaturated fatty acids or derivatives thereof. ci, mixed with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the food industry

  and optionally an antioxidant. -

  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises fatty acids -3 C18-22

as unsaturated fatty acids.

  3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises the acid, 8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic and the acid 4,7,10,13,16,19-

  docosahexaenoic as unsaturated fatty acids.

  4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises esters, alkaline earth metal salts or amine salts as fatty acid derivatives. 5. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition regenerating the skin according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises the mixture of 0.5 to 40% by weight of algae containing selenium and 99.5 to 60 % by weight of unsaturated fatty acids or derivatives thereof, with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetics industry and optionally an antioxidant, according to a manner known in the cosmetics industry,