FI88870B - PREPARATION OF COSMETIC PREPARATION FOR FRUIT FRUIT FRAMSTAELLNING DAERAV - Google Patents

Description

88870

The present invention relates to skin regenerating cosmetic compositions and to their preparation.

The skin is one of the most important organs of the living body, in constant contact with the outside air and exposed to several different influences.

It is known that ω-3-unsaturated Clg.22 fatty waxes have advantageous biological properties. Of these compounds, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexenoic acid (DHA) are significant. Dyerberg et al. (The Lancet 15, 117 (1978)] have shown the importance of both acids and their multiple biological effects.

The stabilization of polyunsaturated fatty acids with glutathione in compositions for various nutritional and cosmetic purposes is disclosed in JP Application Publication No. 61,23599.

Baherjee et al. [Biochim. et Biophys. Acta 835, 533 (1985)] have reported the ability of EPA and DHA to fuse into human skin fibroblasts.

The active ingredients in fish oil, e.g. EPA and DHA, are precursors of PG-3 biosynthesis and inhibit the formation of harmful metabolites, such as TXA2 and TXB2, which result from the so-called "arachidonic acid cascade", which is arachidonic acid. chain of outgoing complex biochemical processes.

Another advantage of fish oil is that it contains vitamins in its natural form, such as vitamins A and D, which are very important for the skin.

• A very large number of publications and patents have 2,88870 devoted to the biological action of polyunsaturated fatty acids, especially EPA and DHA, such as the effect on platelet aggregation, tumor cells, arteriosclerotic diseases and the oxidative reduction of several biochemical processes.

It is still known that mankind has always used algae as food and food. Recently, the range of uses of algae has expanded significantly as algae contain a myriad of essential bioactive substances, such as essential fatty acids, vitamins, provitamins, mucoproteins, and polysaccharides. In recent decades, algae have also formed an important basic material in a number of industries, such as the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

De Roeek and Holtzhauer [La France et ses Parfums 68, 166 (1981)] have suggested the possibility of using seaweed, which is available in large quantities, for the latter purpose. Several cosmetic compositions have been prepared using algae. Such a solution is disclosed in FR patent publications 2,242,990 and 2,426,404 as well as in JP application publications 52.003835 and 60.013700.

Studies on the biological effects of trace elements have been launched in the last decade. Thus, it is known that selenium is one of the most important and necessary substances in life. The beneficial effect of selenium is mainly based on its activating effect on the enzyme glutathione peroxidase, as selenium is an essential part of the prosthetic group of this enzyme, which is the main endogenous inhibitor of harmful peroxidation processes. Selenium does not accumulate in the body, so it should be replenished constantly. Until now, selenium has been introduced into the body mainly in the form of inorganic compounds, e.g. selenium dioxide and sodium selenite. An extensive review of the biological effects of selenium has been made by Thressa 3,88870 et al. [Nutrition Review 35, 7 (1977)], Shamberger [J. of Env. Path, and Tox. 4, 305 (1980)] and Masukawa et al. [Experientia 39, 405 (1983)].

It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel cosmetic composition which combines the advantageous properties of ω-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular EPA and DHA, and algae and selenium.

The invention is based on the finding that the above object can be completely solved by using selenium-containing algae in combination with polyunsaturated fatty acids. The invention is further based on the finding that the selenium content of the algae, when used in combination with unsaturated fatty acids and applied to the skin, is released, thus preventing the aging process of the skin.

In view of the above, the invention relates to a skin regenerating cosmetic composition containing as active ingredients 0.5 to 40% by weight of selenium-containing algae and 99.5 to 60% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids in admixture with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetic industry and possibly with antioxidants. The declared weight% is calculated from the total amount of algae and fatty acids.

The unsaturated fatty acids preferably contain ω-3 fatty acids having from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) or their derivatives, especially esters, alkali metal salts or amine salts.

The composition according to the invention is suitably prepared so that the fat phase and the aqueous phase are prepared separately by heating the fat-soluble components to the melting point, keeping; by dissolving the water-soluble components in aqueous solution at 80 ° C for 30 minutes and then combining these phases. Just 4,88870 at the time of mixing, vitamins A and E are added to the fat phase and Hygroplex (manufacturer: CLR, West Berlin, Friedenau) is mixed into the aqueous phase. Stirring is carried out by pouring the water phase into the fat phase with vigorous stirring, then the mixture, cooled to 50 ° C, is stirred mechanically for a further 1-2 minutes. The fragrance and chamomile extract are mixed into the cream with rapid stirring at 40 ° C. The mass is then cooled to room temperature with stirring without interruption.

As raw materials for unsaturated fatty acids, oils obtained from various marine and lake fish can be used, e.g. mackerel, cod, herring, sardine and squid oil. In addition, oils obtained from fish liver, such as cod liver oil, can be advantageously used.

The source of selenium is selenium-rich algae, which is prepared by culturing algae on a medium enriched with selenium compounds, whereby selenium accumulates in the organism of growing algae.

As cosmetic additives, e.g. stearyl monoglyceride, Chremofor "A" and "O" (manufactured by BASF, Ludwigshafen, Federal Republic of Germany), cetyl alcohol, octyl listearate, vitamins A and E, glycerol, Hygroplex (manufactured by CLR) , fragrances and chamomile extract.

As the antioxidant, for example, butylhydroxytoluene can be preferably used.

The main advantages of the composition according to the invention can be presented as follows: a) The advantageous properties of EPA and DHA as well as selenium and algae are combined with the components of the composition.

(b) It contains selenium as a natural substance enriched in algae. Selenium, co-administered with algae 5,88870, is better absorbed and realizes its beneficial effects.

c) Compositions containing selenium-enriched algae are very preferably used to treat the skin and to slow down or avoid the aging of the skin tissue, respectively.

d) The composition exerts its effects directly on the skin without any internal treatment.

e) During use, the algae contained in the composition releases its selenium content through human skin and protects the skin from the harmful effects of malonium dialdehyde resulting from radical peroxidation reactions in the skin.

The invention is explained in detail by the following non-limiting examples.

The components used in the base materials are prepared according to Examples 1, 2 and 3. The preparation of the compositions of the invention is explained in other examples.

Example 1 2 kg of sodium hydroxide are dissolved in 70 liters of 95% ethanol and 10 kg of sardine oil are added while keeping hot. The mixture is heated to reflux under nitrogen for 2 hours and then cooled to 10 ° C with stirring.

Sodium salts of saturated fatty acids are precipitated. The crystals are filtered and washed with a small amount of ethanol. The ethanol filtrate is evaporated and 20 liters of boiled water are added to the residue. Non-hydrolyzable compounds such as cholesterol are completely removed by extraction with 5 liters of hexane. The aqueous phase is acidified to pH 2 by adding dilute sulfuric acid and then extracted again with 15 liters of hexane. The organic phase is washed with water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate and evaporated to give 3.28870 g of 3.2 kg of a concentrated oil with a DHA content of 36.8% and an EPA content of 31.8%. This oil is brown and smells like fish. It is then mixed with effervescent clay, heated under a nitrogen atmosphere at 105 ° C for 10 minutes and filtered hot. Deodorization is carried out by steam distillation under vacuum at 170 ° C / 1.3 bar for 3 hours to give 1.6 kg of a pale yellow, tasteless, practically odorless oil having a constant composition.

Example 2 8 kg of 40% sodium hydroxide solution are added dropwise at 50-60 ° C to 24 kg of cod liver oil dissolved at 60 ° C in 16 liters of methanol with stirring. The mixture is then stirred at 60 ° C for a further 45 minutes. To the solution is added 20 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid at about 60 ° C. After separation of the phases, the organic layer is washed with 10 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid and then with 180 liters of hot tap water until neutral. The phases are separated again, 100 liters of acetone are added to the oily phase, which is then heated to about 45 [deg.] C. and a solution of 3.8 kg of lithium hydroxide monohydrate in 30 liters of water is added. Stir for 30 minutes, then allow to stand overnight, then filter and evaporate the acetone filtrate. The residue is acidified by adding about 8 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid, extracted 3 times with hexane and evaporated. A nitrogen atmosphere is used throughout the cleaning. This gives 6.4 kg of refined fish oil with an iodine value of 258 and an acid number of 160.

1 kg of cod liver oil purified as described above is added dropwise at 60 ° C to a solution containing 3 kg of urea in 9 liters of methanol. The mixture is stirred at the same temperature for 2 hours and then cooled. It is allowed to stand at -10 ° C overnight, then filtered and the filtrate is evaporated. 2.5 liters of 1: 1-chloro-7,88870 hydrochloric acid are added to the residue and the mixture is stirred for 15 minutes. Extract with hexane, then wash the hexane phase with water until neutral, dry over anhydrous sodium sulfate and evaporate to give 0.34 kg of ω-3-unsaturated fatty acids with an iodine value of 315 and containing 24% EPA and 42% DHA.

Example 3 40 mg of sodium selenite is added to 8 liters of Knop-Pringsheim's medium in a 10 liter glass algae culture flask. The medium thus obtained is sterilized at 121 ° C under an overpressure of 1 bar for 30 minutes. The sterile solution is then inoculated by culturing the selenium-resistant strain of Scenedesmus obtisius-culus. Sterile air containing 5% by volume of carbon dioxide is bubbled through the medium at 25 ° C while illuminating the system with an electric discharge tube operating at 4000 lux at 440 to 520 μ »η and 640 to 700 μιη: η. After culturing for 14 days, the algae are separated from the culture medium. The algae mass thus obtained is sonicated and carefully dried at a temperature below 65 ° C to obtain an algae powder with a selenium content of 1200 ng / g.

Example 4 100 g of selenium-containing algae powder (selenium content 260 Hgg) are added to 150 g of 65% enriched cod-liver oil (containing 22% EPA and 43% DHA). After homogenization, 0.5% vitamin E is added. The 'V homogenate thus obtained is used as an active ingredient in the preparation of a moisturizing and skin regenerating night and day cream as well as an eye cream.

Example 5

The homogenate prepared according to Example 4 is mixed 8,88870 with the following components: the homogenate according to Example 4 2.00 stearyl monoglyceride 5.00

Cremophor A (BASF) 2.00

Cremophor 0 (BASF) 2.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 cetyl stearate 10.00 vitamin A + E 1.00 water 65.60 glycerol 4.00

Phenonip (NIP Laboratories, West Berlin, Schöneberg) 0.20

Hygroplex (CLR) 5.00 chamomile extract, 60% 1.00 fragrance 0.30

From the above components, a cream is prepared in a manner known in the cosmetic field as follows: a) Preparation of the fat phase

A mixture of stearyl monoglyceride, Cremophor A, Cremophor 0, Alfolin and Cetiol 868 is heated at 76-80 ° C until the components are completely melted. Vitamins A and E are added before the fat phase is mixed with the aqueous phase.

b) Preparation of the aqueous phase

Glycerol is heated together with Phenonip, algae concentrate and water at 80 ° C for 30 minutes and Hygroplex is added to the mixture before mixing the fat phase with the aqueous phase.

c) The aqueous phase is poured into the fat phase with rapid stirring, then the mixture is stirred mechanically for 2 hours and then further mixed by hand.

9 88870 d) The mixture is stirred again mechanically at 50 ° C for 1-2 minutes.

e) The fragrance and chamomile extract are added at 40 ° C to the mixture, which is then stirred vigorously.

f) The cream thus obtained is slowly cooled to room temperature with stirring.

Example 6

The procedure of Example 4 is followed, but the homogenate (forming 2.0 parts by mass of the final product) is mixed with the following components: mono-, di- and tri (alkyl tetraglycol ether) -o-phosphonic acid ester C12-14 (Hostaphat KL 340 N, HOECHST, Frankfurt am Main, BRD ) 4,00 parts by mass of oleic acid decyl ester 4,00 parts by mass of white oil (petrolatum oil) 6,00 parts by mass of water qs ad 100.00 parts by weight of sodium salt of acrylic acid / acrylamide-based copolymer (Hostacerin PN 73, HOECHST) 0.60 parts by weight

Phenonip (NIP Laboratories) 0.30 parts by weight of fragrance 0.30 parts by weight

From the above components, a cosmetic composition for treating the body is prepared in a manner known in the cosmetic art and described in Example 5.

Claims (5)

10 88870 Pat entt i requirements: Cosmetic composition for regenerating the skin, characterized in that it contains selenium-containing algae and unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives in admixture with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetic industry and possibly antioxidants, the proportion of selenium-containing algae being 0.5 to 40% by weight and the proportion of unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives is 99.5 to 60% by weight, respectively, of the total amount of algae and unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives included in the composition. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains C 12-22 - ω-3 fatty acids as unsaturated fatty acids. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that it contains 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) as unsaturated fatty acids. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains esters, alkali metal salts or amine salts as fatty acid derivatives. A process for preparing a skin regenerating cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that 0.5 to 40% by weight of selenium-containing algae and 99.5 to 60% by weight of unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives are mixed with carriers commonly used in the cosmetic industry. and / or with additives and optionally with an antioxidant in a manner generally known in the cosmetic industry, the stated percentages by weight being calculated from the total amount of selenium-containing algae and unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives. 11 88870