NL8800690A - SKIN-REGENERING COSMETIC PREPARATION AND METHOD FOR PREPARING IT. - Google Patents

Description

NL 34.927-Kp / ab i

a

Skin-regenerating cosmetic preparation and method for its preparation

The present invention relates to skin-regenerating cosmetic preparations as well as to their preparation.

The house is one of the most important organs of the living organism, which is in constant contact with the outside world and is exposed to many different influences.

It is known that ω unsaturated fatty acids have favorable biological properties. Of these compounds, eicosapentanoic acid (EPA) and docosahexanoic acid (DHA) are excellent. Dyerberg et al. (The Lancet 15, 117 (1978)) have pointed to the importance and versatile biological action of both acids.

The stabilization of polyunsaturated fatty acids by glutathione in preparations used for various nutritional and cosmetic purposes has been described by Baherjee et al. (Biochim. Et Biophys. Acta 835, 533 (1985)).

The active ingredients of the fish oil, eg EPA

and DHA are precursors of PG-3 series 20 biosynthesis and prevent the formation of harmful metabolites, such as TXA and TXB, arising from the so-called "arachidonic acid stage" 2 2 which is a chain of complex biochemical processes starting from arachidonic acid.

Another advantage of the fish oil is that it contains in a natural form vitamins, such as vitamins A and D, which are very important for the skin.

A particularly large number of publications and patents have been devoted to the biological activity of polyunsaturated acids, especially EPA and DHA, such as the activity of platelet aggregation, tumor cells, arteriosclerotic disorders and oxido-reductive steps of various biochemical processes .

It is also known that algae have been used by humans for food and nutrition purposes for centuries.

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Recently, the scope of the use of algae has increased significantly, as the algae contain numerous essential bioactive substances, such as essential fatty acids, vitamins, provitamins, mucoproteins and polysaccharides. In the last 5 decades, the algae have even become an important basic material in various industrial areas, such as the food industry, the pharmaceutical industry and the cosmetic industry.

The possibilities of using sea algae for the latter purposes, which are available in large quantities therein, have been mainly reported by De Roeek And Holtzhauer £ La France et ses Parfums 68, 166 (1981) 7. A number of cosmetic preparations have been prepared using algae. Such a solution has been described in French Patent Nos. 22424990 and 2426404 as well as in published Japanese Patent Applications Nos. 52003835 and 60013700.

Research into the biological action of microelements and trace elements has started in the last 20 decades. It has therefore become known that selenium is one of the most important and essential substances of the living mechanism. The beneficial effect of selenium is primarily based on its activating action directed at the glutathione peroxidase enzyme, since selenium is an essential component of the prosthetic group of this enzyme, which is the major endogenous inhibitor of the deleterious peroxidation processes. Selenium does not accumulate in the organism, which means that selenium must be continuously supplemented. To this end, selenium was introduced into the organism mainly in the form of inorganic compounds, eg selenium dioxide and sodium selenite. A comprehensive report on the biological action of selenium was published by Thressa et al. Nut Nutrition Review 35, 7 (1977) 7, Shamberger J. J. or Env. Path, and Tox. 354, 305 (1980) 7 as well as Masukawa £ Experientia 39, 405 (1983) 7. The object of the present invention is to provide a new cosmetic composition, in which in the .8800690 -t-3 -vi Λ beneficial effect of ω -3-polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular EPA and DHA are combined, as well as those of algae and selenium.

The invention is based on the recognition that the above object can be fully achieved by using selenium-containing algae together with polyunsaturated fatty acids.

The invention is further based on the recognition that the selenium content of the algae used in conjunction with the unsaturated fatty acids and applied to the skin is released, thereby inhibiting the aging process of the skin.

Based on the above, the invention relates to a skin-regenerating cosmetic preparation, characterized in that it contains 0.5 to 40% by weight of selenium-containing algae as well as 99.5 to 60% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids as active ingredients. with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetic industry, and possibly with antioxidants.

The preparation according to the invention is suitably prepared such that the fat phase and the water phase are prepared separately by heating the fat soluble ingredients to melt, keeping the water soluble ingredients in aqueous solution for 30 minutes.

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minutes at 80 ° C, followed by combining both phases.

Just before mixing, vitamins A and E are added to the fat phase, while Hygroplex (producer CLR, West Berlin, Friedenau) is added to the water phase. Mixing is performed by pouring the aqueous phase into the fat phase with vigorous stirring followed by mechanical stirring

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30 of the mixture for 1-2 minutes, which mixture has cooled to 50 ° C. The fragrance and chamomile extract

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mixed with the ointment with rapid stirring at 40 ° C. The mass is then cooled to room temperature with continuous stirring.

The preparation of selenium-containing algae is described in applicant's co-filed patent application No. ....... (Hungarian patent application No. 575/88).

As starting materials for the unsaturated fat. 8 8 0 0 6 9 0 - 4 - fc acids, one can use oils obtained from various sea fish and freshwater fish, eg the oil of mackerel, cod, herring, sardine and squid. In addition, the oils obtained from the liver of fish, such as cod liver oil, can preferably be used.

Selenium-rich algae are used as the source of selenium, the preparation of which is described in the related patent application No. ............ based on the

Hungarian patent application No. 575/88. The selenium-rich algae are prepared by cultivating algae on a culture medium enriched with selenium compounds, with selenium accumulating in the organism of the growing algae.

As cosmetic additives, stearoyl monoglyceride, Chremofor "A" and "O" (producer of both: BASF, Ludwigshafen, German Federal Republic), cetyl alcohol, octyl stearate, vitamins A and E, glycerol, hygroplex (producer: CLR), fragrances and chamomile extract used.

As an antioxidant, for example, butyl-20 hydroxytoluene can preferably be used.

The main advantages of the preparation according to the invention can be summarized as follows: a) the preferred properties of EPA and DHA as well as of selenium and algae are combined by the components of the preparation.

b) the preparation contains selenium as a natural substance enriched in algae; the selenium administered together with the algae is better absorbed and has a better effect.

C) the algae-containing preparations, enriched with selenium, can preferably be used for skin care and for slowing or avoiding the skin tissue, respectively.

d) the preparation acts directly on the skin without any internal treatment.

e) in use, the algae present in the preparation release a selenium content through human skin and protect the skin from the harmful action of malon. 8 8 0 0 Sël - 5 - dialdehyde, which results from the radical peroxygenation reactions that take place in the skin.

The invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

The ingredients used as base materials are prepared according to Examples I, II and III. The preparation of the preparations according to the invention is described in the remaining examples.

Example I

2 kg of sodium hydroxide were dissolved in 70 l of 95% ethanol, after which 10 kg of sardine oil was added while heating the mixture. The mixture is heated to reflux under nitrogen for 2 hours, after which it

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mixture was cooled to 10 ° C with stirring. The sodium 15 salts of the saturated fatty acids were precipitated. The crystals were filtered and then washed with a little ethanol. The ethanolic filtrate was evaporated and 20 liters of boiled water were added to the residue. The non-hydrolyzable compounds, such as cholesterol, were completely removed by extraction with 5 L of hexane. The water phase was acidified to a pH of 2 by adding dilute sulfuric acid, after which the water phase was extracted again with 15 L of hexane. The organic phase was washed with water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate and then evaporated to give 3.2 g of a concentrated oil with a DHA content of 36.8% and an EPA content of 31.8%. This oil is. brown and smells like fish. Then this oil was mixed with Fuller's soil, under nitrogen

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heated to 105 ° C for 10 min and then filtered hot. Deodorization was accomplished via steam distillation

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under vacuum at 170 C / 1.3 bar for 3 hours to yield 1.6 kg of a pale yellow, tasteless, practically odorless fatty acid mixture with practically unchanged composition. Example II

8 kg of a 40% sodium hydroxide solution

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added dropwise to 24 kg cod liver oil at 50 to 60 ° C, dissolved

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at 60 C in 16 L of methanol with stirring. Then the mixture was added

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stirred an additional 45 min at 60 ° C. 8800690 was added to the solution

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according to 20 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid added at about 60 ° C. After separating the phases, the organic layer was washed with 10 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid, then with 180 l of warm tap water until neutral. The phases were again separated, after which 100 5 l of acetone was added to the oil phase, which was then added to

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about 45 ° C was heated, after which a solution of 3.8 kg of lithium hydroxide monohydrate in 30 l of water was added. After stirring for 30 min, the mixture was left overnight and then the mixture was filtered, then the acetone filtrate was evaporated. The residue was acidified by adding about 8 kg of 15% hydrochloric acid, extracted 3 times with hexane and finally evaporated. The entire purification operation was carried out under a nitrogen atmosphere. 6.4 g of purified fish oil 15 with an iodine value of 258 and an acid number of 160 were obtained.

Purified cod liver oil was described above

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Dropped 1 kg at 60 ° C to a solution of 3 kg of urea in 9 l of methanol. The mixture was stirred at the same temperature for 2 hours and then cooled. Then they left

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Leave the mixture at -10 ° C overnight, after which it is filtered off and the filtrate evaporated. 2.5 L of 1: 1 hydrochloric acid was added to the residue and the mixture was stirred for 15 minutes. After extraction with hexane, the hexane phase was washed with water until neutral, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate and evaporated to yield 0.34 kg ω -3 unsaturated fatty acids with an iodine value of 315, EPA content of 24% and DHA content of 42 %.

Example III

40 mg of sodium selenite was added to 8 L

Bud-Pringsheim's culture medium contained in a 10 L algae culture glass bottle. The culture medium thus obtained was

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sterilized at 121 ° C under an overpressure of 1 bar for 30 min. The sterile solution was inoculated with a pure algae culture of selenium-resistant Scenedesmus obtisius culus. Sterile air containing 5% by volume of carbon dioxide was bubbled into the culture medium, at 25 ° C, while the system was irradiated .8800690 $ - 7 - 4 using an electric discharge tube operating at 4000 lux at a wavelength of 440 - 520 m and 640 - 700 m. After a culture period of 14 days, the algae were separated from the culture medium. The algae mass thus obtained was decomposed by sound waves and carefully dried at a temperature below 65 ° C to yield an algae powder with a selenium content of 1200 µg / g.

Example IV

100 g of a selenium-containing algae powder (selenium content: 260 g / g) was added to 150 g of 65% enriched cod liver oil (containing 22% EPA and 43% DHA). After homogenization, 0.5% vitamin E was added. The homogenate thus obtained was used as an active ingredient for the preparation of moisturizing and skin-regenerating evening and morning ointments as well as an eye wrinkle cream.

Example V

The homogenizate prepared according to Example IV was mixed with the following ingredients: Homogenizate according to Example. IV 2.00

Stearoyl monoglyceride 5.00

Cremophor A (BASF) 2.00

Cremophor 0 (BASF) 2.00

Cetyl alcohol 2.00 25 Cetyl stearate 10.00

Vitamins A + E 1.00

Water 65.60

Glycerol 4.00

Phenonip (NIP Laboratorenm, West Berlin, 30 Schöneberg) 0.20

Hygroplex (CRL) 5.00

Chamomile extract, 60% 1.00

Fragrance 0.30

From the above ingredients, a cream was prepared in a manner known to cosmetic practice as follows: a) Preparation of the fat phase

Mixture of Stearyl Monoglyceride, Cremophor A, .8800690 * - 8 - * \ o

Cremophor 0, Alfol and Cetiol 868 were heated at 76 to 80 ° C until the components were completely melted. Vitamins A and E were added prior to mixing the fat phase with the water phase.

B) Preparation of the water phase

Glycerol was heated together with Phenonip, algae concentrate and water at 80 ° C for 30 minutes while Hygroplex was added to the mixture before. mixing the fat phase with the water phase.

C) The water phase was poured into the fat phase with rapid stirring, after which the mixture was stirred mechanically for 2 min and then further stirred by hand.

d) The mixture was again stirred mechanically at

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50 C for 1 to 2 min.

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E) The fragrance and chamomile extract were extracted at 40 ° C

added to the mixture with vigorous stirring.

f) The cream thus obtained was slowly cooled to room temperature with stirring.

Example VI

The procedure described in Example IV was followed except that the homogenizate (which was about 2 parts by weight of the final product) was mixed with the following ingredients:

Mixture of mono-, di- and tri (alkyl-25-tetraglycoether) -o-phosphonic acid ester C-12-14 (Hostaphat KL 340 N; HOECHST,

Frankfort a.M. FRG) 4.00 wt. parts

Decyl ester of oleic acid 4.00 wt. parts

White oil (Vaseline oil) 6.00 wt. parts 30 Water q.s. ad 100.00 wt. parts

Sodium salt of a copolymer on the basis of acrylic acid / acrylamide (Hostacerin PN 73; HOECHST) 0.60 wt. parts

Phenonip (NIP Laboratories) 0.30 wt. parts 35 Fragrance 0.30 wt. parts

From the above ingredients, a body care cosmetic preparation was prepared in a manner known in cosmetic practice and as described in Example V.

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Claims (5)

Skin regenerating cosmetic preparation, characterized in that this preparation contains 0.5-40% by weight of selenium-containing algae and 99.5-60% by weight of unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives, mixed with carriers and / or additives, usually be used in the cosmetic industry, as well as possibly with antioxidants. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains C 1 -3 fatty acids as unsaturated fatty acids. 18—22 Preparation according to Claim 2, characterized in that this preparation contains unsaturated fatty acids 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentanoic acid (EPA) and 4,7,10,13,16,19-deco-sahexanoic acid (DHA). contains. 4. A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains esters, alkali metal salts or amine salts as fatty acid vessels. Process for the preparation of a skin-regenerating cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that 0.5 to 40% by weight of selenium-containing algae and 99.5 to 60% by weight of unsaturated fatty acids or their derivatives are mixed with carriers and / or additives commonly used in the cosmetic industry, and optionally with an antioxidant, in a manner customary in the cosmetic industry. 25 ___ .8800690