KR820000203B1 - Menufacturing method summer clothes with good ventilation - Google Patents

Menufacturing method summer clothes with good ventilation Download PDF

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Publication number
KR820000203B1
KR820000203B1 KR1019800004528A KR800004528A KR820000203B1 KR 820000203 B1 KR820000203 B1 KR 820000203B1 KR 1019800004528 A KR1019800004528 A KR 1019800004528A KR 800004528 A KR800004528 A KR 800004528A KR 820000203 B1 KR820000203 B1 KR 820000203B1
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South Korea
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yarns
yarn
twisted
polyester
fabric
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KR1019800004528A
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Korean (ko)
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석판근
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제일합섬 주식회사
엄경호
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D7/00—Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

Previously illustrated, T/R Blended spun yarn and polyester stretch yarn are simultaneously hard-twisted, two types of hard-twisted yarns which are hard-twisted by 600TPM-1200TPM in the same direction of the twist of spun yarn are woven one by one and are shrunk 205% in the warp and weft direction by heat treatment resulting in good air-permeable character.

Description

통기성이 우수한 카버링(covering) 하복지 제조 방법Breathable Covering Fabric

본 발명은 실 자체가 신축성을 갖는 원사를 사용하여 직물의 신축성을 부여하는 것이 아니고 방적사와 스트렛치사의 이본 강연사를 이용하여 종 또는 횡방향으로 1본씩 교호로 배열직성한 평직 직포를 열탕처리하여 강연사의 연고정(셋팅)을 규칙적으로 굴곡 고정시켜 직물의 신축성을 부여하게 되며, 통기성이 우수하고, 카버링 효과가 커서 비침성이 없는 하복지의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention does not impart the elasticity of the fabric by using the yarn having elasticity itself, but by heating the plain woven fabric alternately arranged one by one in the longitudinal or transverse direction by using the double-stranded yarn of the yarn of the yarn and stretch yarn It relates to a method of manufacturing a lower garment that is non-invasive because the softening (setting) of the twisted yarn is bent and fixed regularly to give elasticity of the fabric, and the breathability is excellent and the carvering effect is large.

종래의 하복지로써는 실 자체가 신축성을 갖는 신축사를 이용하거나 신축사와 혼방사를 각각 사용하여 교직으로 된 것이 있으나 이 경우 직물의 신축성은 있으나 카버링 효과가 불량하기 때문에 직목사이가 벌어져 비침성이 있어 안으로 접은 직물 부분이 밖에 나타나게 되므로 외관을 해치는 결함이 있다.Conventionally, the lower garment uses a stretch yarn having elasticity in itself, or is made of a teaching cloth by using a stretch yarn and a blended yarn, respectively. In this case, the elasticity of the fabric is weak, but the carburing effect is poor, and thus there is a non-invasiveness between the woods. There is a defect that damages the appearance since the fabric part folded inside appears outside.

더욱이 폴리에스터 강연 스트렛치사와 혼방 방적사를 사용하여 교직하였을 경우에는 신축성은 한쪽에만 있으므로 구김살 발생이 나타나고, 통기성이 좋지 못하여 하복지로써 적합하지 못한 결점이 있었다.In addition, when using the polyester lecture stretch yarns and blended yarns, the elasticity is only on one side, so wrinkles appear, and there is a defect that is not suitable as a lower stomach because of poor breathability.

본 발명은 종래의 그와 같은 결점을 제거하기 위하여 혼방사와 폴리에스터 스트렛치사를 동시에 강연하여 우방향과 좌방향에 강하게 꼬임을 주어 연고정시킨 2종류의 강연사를 종 또는 횡방향으로 1분씩 교호로 배열하여 직성한 평직 직포를 열탕처리하여 강연사를 연고정시킴으로써 카버링 효과를 갖는 신축성 직물을 얻을 수 있으므로 탄력성이 우수하고, 통기성이 우수하며, 표면이 까칠까칠한 맛을 내어 하복지로써 제반 특성을 가질 수 있도록 한 새로운 하복지의 제조 방법을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.In order to eliminate such drawbacks of the prior art, two kinds of twisted yarns, which are softly twisted in the right direction and the left direction by twisting the blended yarns and the polyester stretch yarns at the same time and alternately fixed, are alternated for 1 minute in the longitudinal or transverse direction. It is possible to obtain elastic fabric with carvering effect by heat treating the plain weave woven by arranging woven fabrics to soften the twisted yarns, so it has excellent elasticity, breathability, and a rough surface. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a new lower garment.

본 발명의 제조 방법을 상술하면 다음과 같다.The manufacturing method of the present invention will be described in detail as follows.

가) 제1공정 : 원사 강연 공연A) Stage 1: Yarn lecture performance

75데니어 내지 250데니어 (S꼬임)의 폴리에스터 스트렛치사와 T/R 혼방사(Z꼬임)를 동시에 합연함에 있어 혼방사의 꼬입 방향과 동일한 Z 방향으로 600－1,000TPM의 꼬임수를 주며 강연하여 우방향 강연사를 얻고 같은 방법에 의하여 폴리에스터 스트렛치사와 동일한 S방향으로 좌방향 강연사를 얻은다음 이 강연사를 50°－80℃에서 5분－20분간 예열하고 80°－110℃의 고온에서 10－30분간 스티밍을 한다.In joining 75 to 250 denier (S twist) polyester stretch yarn and T / R blend yarn (Z twist) at the same time, give a twist of 600-1,000 TPM in the same Z direction as the twist direction of the blend yarn. Directional twisted yarn was obtained and left twisted yarn was obtained in the same S direction as the polyester stretch yarn by the same method, and the preheated yarn was preheated at 50 ° -80 ° C. for 5 minutes to 20 minutes, and then heated at 10 ° C. at a high temperature of 80 ° -110 ° C. Steam for 30 minutes.

나) 제 2 공정 : 제직 및 가공 공정B) Second process: weaving and machining process

제 1 공정에서 얻은 강연합사를 1본씩 교호로 배열하여 경사조를 형성하고 위사로써는 강연합사 또는 일반사를 사용하여 제직하고 솝서(Sofcer)에 의한 공지의 단계별 염색을 행한 후 열탕처리 하여 경사방향 수축율 2－5% 위사방향 수축율 2－5% 되게 수축 가공을 행한다.The twisted yarns obtained in the first process are arranged alternately one by one to form warp yarns, and as weft yarns, weaving is performed using twisted yarns or ordinary yarns, and dyeing is performed in a well-known step by soap, followed by boiling water treatment to incline shrinkage. 2-5% Weft shrinkage is performed so that the shrinkage ratio is 2-5%.

종래의 신축성 직물을 제조하는 경우에는 직사 전체를 신축력을 갖는 울리사(Wooly사)나 스판텍스사를 이용하여야 하며, 직사 자체가 신축성을 가질 때는 적은 장력에 의하여서도 신장되므로 장력 관리를 잘하더라도 구김이 없는 균일한 직물을 얻기가 어렵고 피복성이 나쁜 직물을 얻는 것이 통예인 것이다.In the case of manufacturing conventional stretch fabrics, woolly yarns (Wooly) or spantex yarns must be used for the entire weaving yarn. It is difficult to obtain a uniform woven fabric without a coating and it is common practice to obtain a woven fabric having poor coating properties.

본 발명에서는 T/R 혼방사와 그 꼬임방향의 반대방향인 폴리에스터 스트렛치사와를 T/R 혼방사와 동일 꼬임방향으로 강연함으로 강연된 폴리에스터 스트렛치사는 꼬임 방향이 반대이기 때문에 꼬임이 풀어지면서 길이 방향으로 늘어나는 경향이 있고 T/R방적사는 꼬임 방향이 동일하므로 꼬임이 증가되면서 길이 방향으로 줄어드는 경향이 있으므로 자연히 T/R방적사가 심사가 되고 폴리에스터사는 약사(弱事))가 되어 장식사(Fancy yarn)와 같이 특이한 피복효과(Covering effect)를 갖는 신축사를 얻게 됨으로 직물의 피복 효과가 우수하고 비침성이 없는 직물을 얻을 수 있는 것이다.In the present invention, the polyester stretch yarns that are lectured in the same twisting direction as the T / R blended yarns and the polyester stretch yarns opposite to the twisting direction are twisted because the twisting directions are opposite. The T / R spinning yarn tends to stretch in the longitudinal direction and the T / R spinning yarn has the same twisting direction, so the twisting tends to decrease in the longitudinal direction, so the T / R spinning yarn is naturally judged and the polyester yarn becomes a pharmacist. By obtaining a stretch yarn having a unique covering effect (Fancy yarn), such as Fancy yarn is excellent in the coating effect of the fabric can be obtained a non-invasive fabric.

또한 방적사의 종류에 따라 촉감, 흡습성 등 피복성을 조정할 수 있으며 여러 가지 용도로 사용할 수 있는 것이다.In addition, it is possible to adjust the coating properties such as touch, hygroscopicity according to the type of yarn and can be used for various purposes.

제 2 공정에서는 제 1 공정에서 얻은 강연사를 1본씩 교호로 배열하여 직성하였으므로 종방향으로는 좌연의 강연사와 우연히 강연사가 교호로 조밀하게 배열되고 횡방향으로는 보통의 직사가 뜨문뜨문하게 배열 직성되어 있으므로 이를 열탕내에서 충분히 교반하면 강연사조의 연고정이 해제되어 강연사의 복원력이 부활하여 다소 굴곡상태를 형성한채 고정되므로 통기성이 우수하고, 카버링 효과가 우수하며 엷은 하복지의 경우에도 비침성이 전혀 없는 우수한 복지를 제조할 수 있는 것이다.In the second process, the lecturers obtained in the first process were arranged alternately one by one. Therefore, in the longitudinal direction, the lecturers of the left margin and the lecturers were accidentally arranged densely, and in the transverse direction, the regular weaving yarns were arranged loosely. Therefore, if it is sufficiently stirred in the boiling water, the ointment fixation of the lecture yarn is released and the restoring force of the lecturer is revived and fixed while forming a somewhat curved state, so it is excellent in breathability, excellent in carburing effect, and non-invasive even in the case of thin summer welfare. It is possible to manufacture excellent welfare at all.

본 발명 제법의 실시예를 들면 다음과 같다.Examples of the production method of the present invention are as follows.

[실시예]EXAMPLE

가) 제 1 공정 : 원사 강연 공정1) Process 1: Yarn Lecture Process

15D/30/1 폴리에스터 스트렛치사를 S연으로 850TPM 가연하여 80℃에서 30분간 스팀셋팅한 실(絲) 1/61'S 폴리에스텔 65% 레이온 35% 혼방사(꼬임방향Z)를 합연하되 그 연도(撚度)를 Z방향으로 950TPM으로 강연하여 60℃에서 10분간 예열하고 100℃에서 20분간 스티밍한다.15D / 30/1 Polyester Stretch Yarn is twisted with 850TPM in S lead and steamed at 80 ° C for 30 min. 1/61'S Polyester 65% Rayon 35% Blended Yarn (Twisting Direction Z). Lecture at 950 TPM in Z direction, preheat at 60 ° C for 10 minutes and steam at 100 ° C for 20 minutes.

나) 제 2 공정 : 제직 및 가공공정B) Second process: weaving and processing process

상기 제 1 공정에서 얻은 폴리에스터 및 T/R사로 된 강연사를 1본씩 교호로 경사 배열하되 경사밀도 54 본/인치로 하고, 위사로써 상기 강연사로 하여 위사밀도 45본/인치의 생지를 제직하고 공지의 숍서(Sofcer)기에 의한 단계별 염색을 실시하고 180℃에서 20초－30초간 열탕처리하여 수축율 2－5%의 완제품을 얻는다.The twisted yarns made of polyester and T / R yarns obtained in the first step are alternately inclined one by one, but the warp density is 54 bones / inch, and the weft yarns are the twist yarns. The dyeing is carried out step by step with a Socercer machine and hot water treatment at 180 ° C. for 20-30 seconds to obtain a finished product having a shrinkage of 2-5%.

이상과 같이 제조된 본 발명의 직물은 촉감이 까실까실하여 청량감이 있으면서 피복성이 우수하여 종래 폴리에스텔 100%의 신축성 직물이 하복지의 경우와 같은 비침성이 전혀 없고 양모와 같은 우수한 신축성, 탄력성 및 흡습성을 갖게 되는 특성이 있는 것이다.The fabric of the present invention manufactured as described above has a soft feel and excellent coating properties, so that the 100% polyester fabric of conventional polyester has no non-invasiveness as in the case of the lower garment, and has excellent elasticity and elasticity such as wool. And hygroscopic properties.

Claims (1)

본문에 상술한 바와 같이 T/R 혼방 방적사와 폴리에스터 스트렛치사를 동시에 강연하되 방적사의 연방향과 동일방향으로 600TPM－1,200TPM의 연수로 강하게 꼬임을 준 2종의 강연사를 종 또는 횡방향으로 1본씩 교호로 배열하여 직성한 포지를 공지의 열탕처리로 경위사 방향 각각 2－5% 수축시킨 통기성이 우수하고 비침성이 없는 카버링 하복지의 제조방법.As mentioned in the text, the two kinds of twisted yarns that were simultaneously twisted with T / R blended yarns and polyester stretch yarns at the same time as the yarn yarns in the same direction as the yarns were twisted with 600 TPM-1,200 TPM in the longitudinal or transverse direction. A method for producing a well-ventilated, non-invasive carbering lower welfare paper in which the forged fabrics arranged by alternating one by one are shrunk by 2 to 5% in the direction of the warp yarn by a known hot water treatment.
KR1019800004528A 1980-11-27 1980-11-27 Menufacturing method summer clothes with good ventilation KR820000203B1 (en)

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KR1019800004528A KR820000203B1 (en) 1980-11-27 1980-11-27 Menufacturing method summer clothes with good ventilation

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KR1019800004528A KR820000203B1 (en) 1980-11-27 1980-11-27 Menufacturing method summer clothes with good ventilation

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