CN112251883A - Production method of washable fabric of pure wool suede elastic machine - Google Patents
Production method of washable fabric of pure wool suede elastic machine Download PDFInfo
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- CN112251883A CN112251883A CN202011110373.6A CN202011110373A CN112251883A CN 112251883 A CN112251883 A CN 112251883A CN 202011110373 A CN202011110373 A CN 202011110373A CN 112251883 A CN112251883 A CN 112251883A
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- fabric
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C17/00—Fulling
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for producing washable fabric of a pure wool suede elastic machine, which comprises the working procedures of spinning, weaving and dyeing and finishing, wherein the content of high count wool in the woven yarn is not less than 95 percent; dyeing and finishing comprises sequential continuous boiling, fulling, drying, brushing and shearing, softening, first decating, scale stripping, washing, heat setting, shrinkage prevention, baking and second decating; the milling is washing and milling combined milling. According to the production method of the pure wool suede elastic machine washable fabric, the pure wool suede fabric with thick suede is obtained through a washing and shrinking combined milling process, and the pure wool suede fabric is endowed with good machine washable stability through scale stripping, shrinkage prevention and repeated decating setting in post-treatment; the finished fabric product has excellent quality, stable style and rich velvet feeling, reaches the machine washable standard and meets the market demand.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a production method of washable fabric of a pure wool suede elastic machine.
Background
With the continuous development of textile industry, consumers pay more and more attention to comfort, functionality, easy care and the like of products in addition to paying attention to factors such as color, style, price and the like when choosing and purchasing clothes. The surface of the wool fiber is covered with a layer of scale structure, so that the wool fiber has felting property, and pure wool fabric can generate felting deformation when being washed by a machine, thereby affecting the appearance and the size of the fabric and shortening the service life of clothes. The pile fibers of the pure wool fabric with the heavy pile surface are easy to tangle and felt in the machine washing process, so that the pure wool fabric is not suitable for machine washing. In the prior art, in order to achieve the effect of machine washing, three modes of reducing the wool content of the fabric, destroying the scale layer or coating the scale layer with resin finishing wool are generally adopted, but the machine-washing index of the fabric after the scale layer is simply destroyed is unstable.
How to make pure wool fabric have machine washable stability, stable elasticity and a heavy suede surface is a technical problem to be solved by technical personnel in the field of wool spinning.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provides a production method of washable fabric of a pure wool suede elastic machine.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a production method of washable fabric of a pure wool suede elastic machine is characterized by comprising the working procedures of spinning, weaving and dyeing and finishing, wherein the content of high count wool in the woven yarns is not less than 95 percent;
the dyeing and finishing comprises the steps of continuous boiling, fulling, drying, brushing and shearing, softening, first decating, scale stripping, washing, heat setting, shrinkage prevention, baking and second decating in sequence;
the milling is washing and milling combined milling.
The high-count wool refers to wool with the fineness of not more than 20 mu m, and comprises fine-count wool with the fineness of 16.5-18.5 mu m. Furthermore, warp fibers of the weaving yarns consist of 100% of high-count wool, weft fibers mainly consist of the high-count wool and elastic fibers, and the elastic fibers account for not more than 5% of the raw material fibers of the fabric in percentage by mass. The elastic fiber such as MS elastic fiber has the stress close to spandex, the elastic dimensional stability and the chemical stability are good, the chlorine resistance is excellent, the low-temperature shaping effect of the MS elastic fiber Australian wool fabric is good, and the pure wool fabric with weft-direction stable elasticity is formed. Or the warp and weft fibers of the weaving yarn are composed of 100% high-count wool, and the aim of weft elasticity is fulfilled through the cooperation of fabric texture, the yarn and the after-finishing process.
The preferable technical scheme is that the yarn count of warp yarns and weft yarns used for weaving is N/2Nm, and N is 45-72; the twist of the warp and the weft is 600-1000 twists/m, the warp density of the woven fabric is 210-375 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 210-334 pieces/10 cm. The high-count wool is spun into low-count yarn, so that the hand feeling quality of the fabric is improved. The finished width of worsted spinning is generally 150 cm.
The preferable technical scheme is that the consumption of the fulling agent in the fulling agent solution in the fulling process is 4.2-5.6% owf, the pressure of a compression roller is 0.94-1.05 bar, the vehicle speed is 140-160 m/min, the necking is 15.5-16.3 cm, the pressure of a box board is 1.75-1.85 bar, and the fulling time is 45-100 min. The milling process is suitable for elastic yarns containing elastic fibers and all-wool yarns, and machine-washable fabrics with a suede surface are obtained. Furthermore, the yarn count of the warp yarns and the weft yarns used for weaving is N/2Nm, and N is 45-72; the twist of the warp and the weft is 600-1000 twists/m, the warp density of the woven fabric is 210-270 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the woven fabric is 210-270 pieces/10 cm, the warp and the weft are all wool yarns, and the time for extending the fulling is 80-100 min. The weaving process breaks through the convention, the lower warp density and weft density are determined based on the all-wool yarns, the upper tightness of the grey cloth is relaxed as much as possible, the upper machine width is widened, enough space is reserved among the yarns of the fabric, the high-twist yarn spinning process is matched with the fulling process, the long fulling time is included, the natural elasticity of wool is obtained, and the weft direction of the fabric has good elasticity.
In order to make the fabric after fulling constant, the preferable technical scheme is that the drying process has the following process parameters: the temperature is 135-145 ℃, the vehicle speed is 11.5-12.2 m/min, the overfeeding is 4.8-5.1%, and the ratio of the drying open width to the finished product width is (1.022-1.031): 1.
the preferable technical scheme is that the scaling comprises the step of spraying a chlorination solution to treat the fabric, wherein the chlorine content in the chlorination solution is 5.5-6.3 g/L, and the speed of the fabric is 11.4-12.5 m/min. The scale layer on the surface of the wool fiber is damaged, so that the hand feeling of the wool surface tends to be more smooth, and the basic requirement of machine washing is met.
The machine washable index after scale stripping is unstable, and the preferable technical scheme is that the shrinkproof treatment agent is used for padding the fabric, and the concentration of the main components in the shrinkproof treatment agent is as follows: 20-50 g/l of USV cross-linking agent, 20-50 g/l of BAP shrink-proof agent, 1.35-1.6 g/l of penetrating agent and 7-9.5 g/l of baking soda, wherein the pH value of the shrink-proof treatment agent is 6-8;
the drying temperature of the fabric subjected to mangling is 127-133 ℃, the vehicle speed is 9.7-10.4 m/min, the overfeeding is 7.6-8.3%, and the shrink-proof open width is equal to the drying open width. The shrink-proof treatment can improve the machine washable stability of the fabric.
The preferable technical scheme is that the baking temperature is 171-182 ℃, the vehicle speed is 100-130 m/min, the overfeeding is 9.5-10.3%, and the baking open width is equal to the width of a finished product. The shrink-proof agent and the cross-linking agent are further cross-linked with the fabric in the baking process, and the dimensional stability and the machine washable index stability of the fabric are further improved.
The preferable technical scheme is that the technological parameters of the first decating are as follows: the decating temperature is 125-135 ℃, and the steam pressure is 1.4-1.55 kgf/cm2Decating for 6-8 min; the second decating is in an in-tank sealed decating, the decating temperature is 100-103 ℃, and decating is carried out at the time of decatingThe time interval is 4-6 min. The first decating has the effect of enabling the fabric to feel tighter, more compact, more stiff and smoother; the secondary decating has the function of can-steaming and shaping, and the change of the color light of the fabric can be reduced.
The preferable technical proposal is that a water falling and a third decating are also included between the heat setting and shrink prevention working procedures; in the water falling step, a softening agent solution is adopted to pad the fabric, and the fabric is dried at the temperature of 90-100 ℃; the technological parameters of the third decating are as follows: and (3) decating at normal pressure for 7-9 min. The third decating further endows the fabric with soft and elastic handfeel and good drapability.
The preferable technical scheme is that the heat setting temperature is 175-183 ℃, and the ratio of the heat setting open width to the finished product width is (1.06-1.072): 1. the process aims to achieve the shaping effect, so that the fabric is stable in size and stable in shrinkage.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that:
according to the production method of the pure wool suede elastic machine washable fabric, the pure wool suede fabric with thick suede is obtained through a washing and shrinking combined milling process, and the pure wool suede fabric is endowed with good machine washable stability through scale stripping, shrinkage prevention and repeated decating setting in post-treatment;
the finished fabric product has excellent quality, stable style and rich velvet feeling, reaches the machine washable standard and meets the market demand.
Detailed Description
The following further describes embodiments of the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.
Example 1
Fiber composition of the face fabric 18.5 μm au wool 97% MS 3303%, yarn count (Nm): 72/2 × 72/2, warp twist (twist/m): 730/810, warp yarn is 100% Australian wool doubled yarn, weft yarn twist (twist/m): 900, made by doubling Australian wool singles yarn with MS 330. And (3) the gram weight of the finished fabric product: 335G/M, and the width of the finished product is 150 cm; warp and weft density (root/10 cm) of the finished product: 366 × 324, weave: 2/2 twill.
The dyeing and finishing process of the fabric in the embodiment 1 comprises the following steps: continuous boiling → CIMI fulling → drying → middle inspecting → ripe trimming → brush shearing → soft → decating → scaling → washing → heat setting → shearing → water dropping drying → decating → shrink proofing → baking → pot steaming → finished product.
The technological parameters of each procedure are as follows:
continuous boiling: MAT continuous boiling equipment, clear water at 90 ℃ is about 20 seconds, so that the surface fluff ash is cleaned, the fiber damage is avoided, the fabric is preliminarily shaped, the subsequent procedure finishing is facilitated, and the efficiency is improved;
and (3) wool milling: the method adopts a CIMI washing and shrinking combination machine, single-ring milling, a milling process with steam bubbles and an auxiliary agent formula: FXC fulling agent 5% owf; the compression roller pressure is 1bar, the vehicle speed is 150m/min, the necking is 16cm, the compression box plate pressure is 1.8bar, and the milling time is 60 min;
drying: and determining the width of the drying woolen cloth according to the specification requirement of the product and the shrinkage degree of the width of the woolen cloth blank in the finishing process, so that the fabric is constant in width. The temperature is 140 ℃, the vehicle speed is 12m/min, the open width is 154cm, and the overfeeding is 5 percent;
intermediate inspection and well-repairing: and (4) checking possible problems in the wet process, and facilitating timely adjustment of the process scheme and understanding of the state of the machine. Thoroughly trimming, namely picking out the grass scraps on the cloth surface to repair a small amount of front defects and wool surface hair grains;
brushing and shearing: the fluff on the surface of the fabric is uneven in length, which affects the beauty. According to the product style and quality requirements, the fluff is cut to be flush, so that the woolen surface is smooth, the appearance is improved, and pilling is reduced. The distance between two pieces of kraft paper is 2, and the speed is 20 m/min;
softening: softening agent 40g/l, compression roller pressure 2.5kg/m2Dipping and rolling, wherein the temperature is 150 ℃, the open width is set to be 154cm, the overfeeding is 10 percent, and the vehicle speed is 30m/min, so that the fabric has smooth hand feeling and static electricity is removed;
decating: steaming at normal pressure with single roller, and saturated steam penetration, T ═ 130 deg.C, effective action time 7min, steam pressure 1.5kgf/cm2；
Scale stripping: speed V12 m/min, chlorine CL2Soaking cloth, spraying, neutralizing, passing through clear water and dropping cloth, wherein the weight of the cloth is 6 g/l;
washing with water: treating and washing the wool for 20min by using clear water, removing chlorine residues on the wool, and adding 0.5g/l of softening agent to improve fluffy feeling of the suede of the fabric;
heat setting: at 180 ℃, the time is half a minute, the open width is set to be 160cm, and the overfeeding is 5 percent;
water falling: padding by using a baking and fixing combination machine through 5% of a softening agent, drying at the temperature of 95 ℃, and avoiding the color change problem of protein fibers (Australian wool) in the dyeing and finishing process at the operation speed of 30 m/min;
decating: after padding the auxiliary agent, adopting common normal pressure decating, and keeping the pressure in the tank constant and the air inlet time for 8 minutes;
shrink prevention: by using NAHCO3Adjusting the pH value to 7.0 +/-1, 30g/l of TANATEX brand USV cross-linking agent, 30g/l of TANATEX brand BAP shrink-proof agent, 1.5g/l of penetrating agent, 8g/l of baking soda, 130 ℃ of drying temperature, 10m/min of vehicle speed, 154cm of open width, 8% of overfeeding, and adopting a padding mode: one step of dipping and one step of rolling;
baking: the temperature is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 125m/min, the open width is 150cm, and the overfeeding is 10 percent;
steaming in a pot: steaming in a low-temperature tank, and steaming at 100 ℃ for 5 minutes in the tank in a closed manner.
Example 2
Example 2 is based on example 1 with the difference that the fiber composition, yarn gauge and fabric gauge of example 2 are as follows: 17.5 μm Australian wool 100%, count (Nm): 50/2 × 50/2, warp and weft yarn twist (twist/m): 610/970, the warp and weft are all 100% Australian wool doubled yarn. And (3) the gram weight of the finished fabric product: 335G/M, finished product warp and weft density (root/10 cm): 248/213, weave: 2/2 twill, and the width of the finished product is 150 cm.
The dyeing and finishing process of the fabric in the embodiment 2 comprises the following steps: continuous boiling → CIMI fulling → drying → middle inspecting → ripe trimming → brush and shear → soft → decating → scaling → washing → heat setting → shearing → shrink proofing → pot steaming → product.
The milling time of example 2 was 90min, and the USV crosslinking agent and BAP shrink-proofing agent were 40g/l and 40g/l, respectively, in the composition of shrink-proofing agent.
The fabrics of the embodiment 1 and the embodiment 2 are detected according to GB/T26382-2011 combed wool fabric and GB18401-2010 national basic safety technical Specification for textile products, wherein the warp and weft technical requirements of the relaxed size change rate (machine washable class) and the total size change rate (machine washable class) of the embodiment 1 and the embodiment 2 are both ≧ 3 ", and the detection results are as follows:
the fiber composition of the fabric in example 1 contains MS330 elastic fibers, the warp and weft density (root/10 cm) of the finished product is 366 × 324, the fiber composition of the fabric in example 2 does not contain elastic fibers, and the warp and weft density (root/10 cm) of the finished product is: 248/213, the width of the product is the same in examples 1 and 2. The upper tightness of example 2 is looser than that of example 1; after fulling process treatment, both the example 1 and the example 2 have a suede surface, and the natural elasticity of wool is provided in the example 2 by prolonging the fulling time of the example 2, and the weft elastic elongation of the example 2 in the table is slightly worse than that of the example 1.
The high-count wool fabric prepared in the examples 1 and 2 has high content of high-count wool, plump texture, good weft elasticity and machine-washable stability, and is a novel fabric in the textile field.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A production method of washable fabric of a pure wool suede elastic machine is characterized by comprising the working procedures of spinning, weaving and dyeing and finishing, wherein the content of high count wool in the woven yarns is not less than 95 percent;
the dyeing and finishing comprises the steps of continuous boiling, fulling, drying, brushing and shearing, softening, first decating, scale stripping, washing, heat setting, shrinkage prevention, baking and second decating in sequence;
the milling is washing and milling combined milling.
2. The method for producing the washable fabric of the pure wool suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1, wherein the yarn count of warp yarns and weft yarns used for weaving is N/2Nm, and N is 45-72; the twist of the warp and the weft is 600-1000 twists/m, the warp density of the woven fabric is 210-375 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 210-334 pieces/10 cm.
3. The method for producing the washable fabric of the pure wool suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the consumption of the fulling agent in the fulling agent solution in the fulling process is 4.2-5.6% owf, the pressure of a compression roller is 0.94-1.05 bar, the speed of the vehicle is 140-160 m/min, the necking is 15.5-16.3 cm, the pressure of a box board is 1.75-1.85 bar, and the fulling time is 45-100 min.
4. The method for producing the washable fabric of the pure wool suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1, wherein the process parameters of the drying process are as follows: the temperature is 135-145 ℃, the vehicle speed is 11.5-12.2 m/min, the overfeeding is 4.8-5.1%, and the ratio of the drying open width to the finished product width is (1.022-1.031): 1.
5. the method for producing the washable fabric of the suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1, wherein the scaling comprises spraying the fabric with a chlorinated solution, wherein the content of chlorine in the chlorinated solution is 5.5-6.3 g/L, and the speed of the fabric is 11.4-12.5 m/min.
6. The method for producing the washable fabric of the pure wool suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1, wherein the shrinkproof treatment agent is used for padding the fabric, and the concentration of the main components in the shrinkproof treatment agent is as follows: 20-50 g/l of USV cross-linking agent, 20-50 g/l of BAP shrink-proof agent, 1.35-1.6 g/l of penetrating agent and 7-9.5 g/l of baking soda, wherein the pH value of the shrink-proof treatment agent is 6-8;
the drying temperature of the fabric subjected to mangling is 127-133 ℃, the vehicle speed is 9.7-10.4 m/min, the overfeeding is 7.6-8.3%, and the shrink-proof open width is equal to the drying open width.
7. The method for producing the washable fabric of the pure wool suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 6, wherein the baking temperature is 171-182 ℃, the vehicle speed is 100-130 m/min, the overfeed is 9.5-10.3%, and the baking open width is equal to the width of a finished product.
8. The method for producing the washable fabric of the pure wool suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1, wherein the process parameters of the first decating are as follows: the decating temperature is 125-135 ℃, and the steam pressure is 1.4-1.55 kgf/cm2Decating for 6-8 min; the second decating is in an in-tank sealed decating, the decating temperature is 100-103 ℃, and the decating time is 4-6 min.
9. The method for producing a washable fabric of a suede elastic machine as claimed in claim 1, wherein a water fall and a third decating are further included between the heat setting and shrink-proofing processes; in the water falling step, a softening agent solution is adopted to pad the fabric, and the fabric is dried at the temperature of 90-100 ℃; the technological parameters of the third decating are as follows: and (3) decating at normal pressure for 7-9 min.
10. The method for producing pure wool pile face stretch machine washable fabric according to claim 1, wherein the heat setting temperature is 175-183 ℃, and the ratio of the heat setting open width to the finished product width is (1.06-1.072): 1.
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| CN202011110373.6A CN112251883A (en) | 2020-10-16 | 2020-10-16 | Production method of washable fabric of pure wool suede elastic machine |
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| CN202011110373.6A CN112251883A (en) | 2020-10-16 | 2020-10-16 | Production method of washable fabric of pure wool suede elastic machine |
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Application publication date: 20210122 |