CN110644115B - Wool worsted super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Wool worsted super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110644115B
CN110644115B CN201910975585.1A CN201910975585A CN110644115B CN 110644115 B CN110644115 B CN 110644115B CN 201910975585 A CN201910975585 A CN 201910975585A CN 110644115 B CN110644115 B CN 110644115B
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wool
yarn
washing
fibers
fabric
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CN110644115A (en
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陶建忠
杨磊
朱磊
黄利芳
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Jiangsu Aoyang Textile Industry Co ltd
Jiangsu Yongkun Wool Textile Co ltd
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Jiangsu Aoyang Textile Industry Co ltd
Jiangsu Yongkun Wool Textile Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/10Inorganic fibres based on non-oxides other than metals
    • D10B2101/12Carbon; Pitch
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/16Physical properties antistatic; conductive
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a wool worsted super crease-resistant non-ironing fabric and a production method thereof, the fabric is woven by blended warp yarns and weft yarns, the warp yarns are made by doubling and plying 2 spun yarns 1 and double twisting, and the twisting coefficient of the warp yarns is 200-240; the weft yarn is formed by doubling, plying and double twisting spun yarns 1 and 2, and the twist coefficient of the weft yarn is 140-180, wherein the spun yarn 1 is formed by blending wool and other fibers, and the spun yarn 2 is formed by blending wool, elastic fibers and other fibers. The fabric is formed by weaving the high-twist warps and the elastic wefts in a matching mode, namely the 'reinforcing steel bars' (namely the warps) and the 'rubber bands' (namely the wefts) are added in the fabric, and the 'reinforcing steel bars' and the 'rubber bands' are interacted to enable the fabric to be soft and elastic (rigid elasticity and flexible elasticity) through rigid and flexible forward and backward movement and make up for each other, so that the super crease-resistant and non-ironing effect is achieved.

Description

Wool worsted super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and production method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of wool spinning and spinning, and particularly relates to a wool spinning super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and a production method thereof.
Background
The worsted western-style clothes are the first-selected high-grade clothes for high-grade white, professional, fashion and the like, the majority of fabrics selected for the clothes are high-grade worsted fabrics, the fabrics are pure wool, wool and other fiber blended fabrics, the fabrics are strong in wool feeling, soft, stiff, high-grade and large, good in drapability and good in heat retention, the production design of the fabrics is completed under the technical condition of wool worsted equipment, and the whole production system comprises 60-80 processes (different process routes are selected according to the clothes requirements of the fabrics).
Although the worsted fabric is the preferred fabric of the high-grade professional suit, the defects which are difficult to overcome in the process of taking by consumers for a long time are as follows: firstly, clothes are easy to wrinkle, wrinkles generated in the process of taking the clothes cannot be restored to be smooth in time, and the wrinkles can be solved only by ironing, so that the long-term taking effect is influenced; secondly, after washing, the clothes need to be ironed and flattened, and wrinkles are not easy to remove without ironing.
At present, two methods are mainly adopted for solving the problems domestically and internationally:
the first method is to twist the warp and weft yarns (woven worsted fabric is done on a loom using both warp and weft system yarns) in the same direction, so called hard twist. For example, the production method of the high-grade wool heavy-twist crease-resistant fabric disclosed in chinese patent CN104397910A is that the fabric is made by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and the warp yarns and the weft yarns are made by selecting 2 single yarns with 90S yarn count, plying and twisting according to the twisting direction Z and the twist number of 1300 twist/m.
The yarn with the structure has enhanced rigidity and elasticity, improves the anti-wrinkle performance of the fabric, is equivalent to adding reinforcing steel bars to the fabric when being used in the fabric, achieves the anti-wrinkle effect by using the rigidity of the reinforcing steel bars, and has good results. The following disadvantages still remain: firstly, the strength of the yarn is reduced by more than 30 percent, the wool fibers in the yarn are distorted and deformed, the natural crimping property of the wool fibers is lost, the yarn is uneven, the yarn breaking rate of spinning and weaving is high, the consumption is large, the efficiency is low, and the surface defects of the fabric are more; secondly, the fabric has hard hand feeling and rough, dry and uneven surface; yarn density in the fabric is low, yarn gaps on the surface of the fabric are large, the appearance is not fine and smooth, and dust is easy to invade.
The second method is to adopt resin to carry out crease-resistant finishing on the fabric, the processing method is simple, chemical auxiliary agents are adopted to carry out padding on the fabric, and then the fabric is baked at high temperature, the principle of the method is also to make the fabric stiff, which is equivalent to coating a layer of film on the surface of the fabric, and the processed fabric has the following defects: firstly, the color of the fabric is changed, and the anti-wrinkle effect is not lasting; secondly, the fabric has stiff hand feeling, the wool feeling is lost, and the drapability and the elegant feeling of the fabric are greatly lost; thirdly, the natural characteristics of the wool fiber are destroyed, and the treatment process is not environment-friendly.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide the wool worsted anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric which is soft and elastic, thereby achieving the super anti-wrinkle non-ironing effect and the production method thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
the wool worsted anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric is woven by blended warp yarns and weft yarns, the raw materials of the fabric comprise wool, elastic fibers and other fibers, the warp yarns are formed by doubling and plying 2 spun yarns 1 and twisting for two times, the twist coefficient of the warp yarns is 200-240, and the twist number is 1400-1600 turns/m; the weft yarn is formed by doubling and plying the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2 and twisting the spun yarn for two times, the twist coefficient of the weft yarn is 140-180, and the twist number is 1000-1200 turns/m, wherein the spun yarn 1 is formed by blending the wool and other fibers, and the spun yarn 2 is formed by blending the wool, the elastic fibers and other fibers.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the spun yarn 1 has a yarn count of 80 to 110Nm, a twist multiplier of 80 to 120, a twist number of 800 to 950 turns/m, a twist direction Z; the spun yarn 2 has a yarn count of 90-120 Nm, a twist coefficient of 80-120, a twist number of 800-950 turns/m, and a twisting direction Z, and the twisting direction of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is S.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the spun yarn 2 is a core spun yarn, and the core yarn is the elastic fiber.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the elastic fiber is lycra or spandex.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the total tightness of the fabric is 115-120, and the ratio of weft density to warp density is 0.8-1.0.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the wool comprises 65 to 80% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, and the elastic fibers comprise 1 to 10% of the total mass of the wool, elastic fibers and other fibers.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the other fibers are mulberry silk, polyester, bamboo charcoal fiber and conductive fiber, wherein the polyester accounts for 10-20% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, the mulberry silk accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, the bamboo charcoal fiber accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, and the conductive fiber accounts for 0.1-1% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers.
The invention adopts another technical scheme that: the production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) making the wool and other fibers into wool tops;
(2) spinning the wool tops and the elastic fibers to prepare yarns, and weaving to prepare grey cloth;
(3) carrying out post-treatment on the grey cloth to obtain a finished fabric product,
in the step (2), the spinning process comprises the steps of mixing strips → head needle → two needles → three needles → four needles → roving → spun yarn → yarn steaming → automatic winding → doubling → two-for-one twisting → yarn steaming,
wherein the spun yarn comprises the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2;
the yarn steaming after the spinning process is to perform yarn steaming treatment on the spun yarn 2;
the yarn steaming after the double twisting process comprises the steps of respectively steaming the warp yarns and the weft yarns;
and the warp yarns and the weft yarns after the yarn steaming treatment are used for weaving the grey cloth.
According to some embodiments of the present invention in some aspects,
the post-finishing process of the grey cloth comprises the following steps: raw trimming → singeing → high-temperature shaping → one-time open washing and continuous boiling → high-speed washing → relaxation broad width → drying → intermediate inspection → ripe trimming → secondary singeing → washing and shrinkage combined washing → secondary open washing and continuous boiling → high-temperature shaping and drying and soft finishing → shearing → decatizing → wetting → intermittence → hot polishing → intermittence → pot steaming → finished product,
wherein the high-speed washing process adopts a detergent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the speed of 200-400 m/min, the washing time of 40-80 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%;
the washing and shrinking combined washing process adopts a softening agent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the vehicle speed of 150-300 m/min, the washing time of 20-50 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%.
According to some embodiments of the invention, in the post-finishing process of the blank,
the singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;
the high-temperature setting process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min and the breadth of 160-180 cm;
the primary open washing and continuous boiling is imported open washing and continuous boiling, the water temperature is 80-95 ℃, and an angora sizing agent is added;
the secondary singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;
the water temperature of the secondary open washing and continuous boiling is 75-85 ℃;
the high-temperature setting, drying and softening finishing process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min, the softening agent of 1-5% and the broad width of 140-160 cm;
the hot finishing process adopts a compression roller with the pressure of 40-50 kg, the temperature of 120-130 ℃, the speed of 15-25 m/min and the front face hot finishing.
According to some embodiments of the invention, in step (1),
the process for making the wool tops comprises the following steps: dyeing → color bar rewashing → mixed bar → gill comb → combing → gill comb → finished bar.
According to some embodiments of the invention, in step (2),
the weaving process comprises the following steps: warping of warp → beaming of warp → warp drawing-in → weaving on warp and weft,
wherein, the woven texture adopts 2/2 twill serge texture.
Due to the application of the technical scheme, compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
the warp yarn of the fabric is formed by doubling and plying spun yarns 1 without elastic fibers and twisting the spun yarns for two times to form warp yarn with the twist coefficient of 200-240, the weft yarn is formed by doubling and plying the spun yarns 1 without elastic fibers and spun yarns 2 with elastic fibers, the fabric is woven by matching the high-twist warp yarn and the elastic weft yarn, a reinforcing steel bar (namely the warp yarn) and a rubber band (namely the weft yarn) are added in the fabric, the reinforcing steel bar and the rubber band interact with each other, and the fabric is soft and elastic (rigid elasticity and elastic elasticity) through rigid-flexible doubling and mutual compensation, so that the super crease-resistant and non-ironing effect is achieved.
The fabric also solves the great problem which puzzles the professional garments for a long time, namely that the elastic fabric is not suitable for being made into the professional garments, and the elastic fatigue of the professional garments made of the elastic fabric is not recovered after the professional garments are taken for a long time, so that the phenomenon that knees, elbows and buttocks are wrapped is caused.
The final physical and chemical indexes of the fabric product produced by the production method of the invention reach or exceed the ministerial first-class product requirements, the mechanical crease resistance in crease resistance non-ironing performance reaches 5 grades through detection, and the water washing non-ironing performance reaches 4 grades.
Detailed Description
In the aspect of wool worsted crease-resistant non-ironing fabric, the application of mature technology in the aspect is not available at home, the mature process introduction in the aspect is not seen at abroad, the process applied at home is only known, the two aspects of 'strong twisting and auxiliary finishing' mentioned in the background technology are only available, and the fabrics created by the technology have the problems (such as weak wool feeling, loss of the characteristics of wool fabrics, rough appearance, multiple production defects, low production efficiency, high wool use requirement, hard handfeel, non-lasting crease resistance, fabric color change and the like), are not recognized by people, are not popularized and applied, and only meet the requirements of customers and are generated and exist in a nearly trace manner.
The fabric is a completely innovative product, is based on the consideration that a large number of professional garment consumers are worried during the process of taking worsted professional garments, and solves a plurality of problems listed above by using a new process under the premise of not changing the characteristics of the fabric. The invention also solves a big problem puzzling the professional garments for a long time, namely that the elastic fabric is not suitable for being made into the professional garments, and the elastic fatigue of the professional garments made of the elastic fabric is not recovered after the professional garments are taken for a long time, so that the phenomenon of the knee, the elbow and the hip being wrapped is caused, and the invention is mainly embodied in the following aspects:
firstly, the method breaks through the traditional spinning process parameter design technology, does not need strong twisting yarns (same-direction twisting) and uses high twisting yarns (opposite-direction twisting), thereby solving the spinning performance of spinning, solving the natural elastic release of wool fibers, remarkably improving the yarn strength and solving the smooth surface of the yarn.
Secondly, the elastic fiber-lycra is fully utilized, the spinning and package combining technology is utilized, the core-spun yarn and the plied yarn technology are not independently adopted, the rigidity performance of the elastic yarn is greatly improved, and the problems of stable elasticity and no exposure of lycra are solved.
Thirdly, through a product design method, matching with fabric lines, and adopting proper tightness and warp-weft proportion, the rigid yarns and the flexible yarns are organically combined together, and the two groups of yarns are mutually contradictory and restricted to mutually compensate and achieve the best appearance effect and the internal anti-wrinkle effect. In this respect, through the orthogonal proportion of rigid and flexible yarns, the most suitable parameters are found out, the performance of all aspects is considered to be very critical, the rigid yarns are used in too much proportion, although the anti-wrinkle effect is enhanced, the fabric is stiff, the rigid yarns are too small in proportion, although the fabric is soft, the anti-wrinkle performance is reduced, the compactness is too high, the fabric is stiff, the elasticity is reduced, the compactness is too low, the fabric is soft, and the inherent and appearance effects such as strength and fine and smooth degree of lines are reduced.
Fourthly, the design idea is completely shown through a special after-finishing process. The after-finishing process design is a guarantee for realizing the design idea, and the supplement and the improvement are carried out on the basis of the traditional process, so that the expected effect is finally realized.
The production method of the invention combines the new process with the traditional process, and has the following advantages:
comparison of the advantages of the first, high twist and co-twist yarns: A. the appearance of the high-twist yarn shows the smooth and round tight characteristic, the surface of the yarn is smooth, the cross section of the yarn is more similar to a circle, the fiber arrangement is more compact, and the same-direction twisting cannot be compared; B. the production efficiency and consumption of high-twist yarns are more dominant than those of same-direction twist yarns, in the aspect of the end breakage rate of a two-for-one twisting process, the high-twist ratio is reduced by 80%, in the weaving process, the end breakage rate of high-twist warp yarns is reduced by 70% than that of same-direction twist warp yarns, and the weaving efficiency reaches 90% (the same-direction twist is only 60%); C. the high twist and the same direction twist yarn have different strength, the same direction twist strength is improved by more than 30 percent than the high twist yarn strength, and the elongation at break is almost the same.
And secondly, the high-twist yarns and the same-direction twist yarns have different twists, so that different requirements on the aspect of using raw materials are met, the shrinkage of the high-twist yarns from single yarns to strand yarns is 94-95.5%, the high-twist yarns are increased and decreased according to the size of twist coefficient selection, the larger the twist coefficient is, the larger the twist is, and the smaller the twist is, the smaller the same-direction twist is, the larger the twist is, and the 91-94% of twist in the same direction is, so that according to the statistical data, if two varieties of yarns with the same yarn count are needed, the larger the twist needs to be thinner single yarns, the difference is 2-4Nm, according to a product design theory, one-grade wool needs to be improved, and the cost of the fabric is increased.
And thirdly, designing parameters of the total tightness and the weft-warp ratio of the product, wherein the two parameters of the total tightness and the weft-warp ratio of the product are always the core of the product design, and the two parameters generally define a certain range in the fabric. The weft-warp ratio parameters are centrally embodied in the configuration of rubber bands and reinforcing steel bars, and directly influence the micro data change of the crease resistance and the hand feeling elasticity of the fabric.
Fourthly, a double-wet finishing process is adopted for the post-finishing of the grey cloth so as to ensure the soft hand feeling and the dimensional stability of the fabric.
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific examples. It is to be understood that these embodiments are provided to illustrate the general principles, major features and advantages of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited in scope by the following embodiments. The implementation conditions used in the examples can be further adjusted according to specific requirements, and the implementation conditions not indicated are generally the conditions in routine experiments.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a production method of wool worsted super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric, which is prepared by the following steps:
1. selection of raw materials
The raw materials comprise a first raw material and a second raw material, wherein the first raw material comprises 73% of wool, 16.5% of terylene, 5% of mulberry silk, 5% of bamboo charcoal fiber and 0.5% of conductive fiber; the second raw material is 40D black lycra, the drafting multiple is 2.75, and the second raw material accounts for 3% of the total mass of the first raw material and the second raw material.
In this example, the conductive fiber is made of black conductive fiber eight colors made in China.
2. Wool top production
The specific process comprises the following steps: dyeing → color bar rewashing → mixed bar → gill comb → combing → gill comb → finished bar,
wherein, the dyeing process comprises the following steps: separately dyeing wool and mulberry silk by adopting a 100 ℃ reactive imported dye lanner element; the bamboo charcoal fiber and the terylene are dyed separately at the high temperature and the high pressure of 130 ℃.
The color bar backwashing process comprises the following steps: the first tank is washed with clean water at 50 ℃, the second tank is washed with crude oil at 50 ℃, the third tank is washed with silicone oil at 85 ℃, 3% of antistatic agent, wool, terylene, bamboo charcoal fiber and mulberry silk again.
A strip mixing process: mixing the washed wool, terylene, bamboo charcoal fiber, mulberry silk and conductive fiber together and adding oil.
The gilling process after sliver mixing comprises the following steps: the fibers are mixed evenly and straightened.
Combing process: short fibers of 30mm or less are removed.
3. Spinning the wool tops and the lycra prepared in the step (2) to prepare yarns, and weaving to obtain grey cloth
The spinning process comprises the following steps: mixed sliver → head needle → two needles → three needles → four needles → roving → spun yarn → steamed yarn → automatic spooling → doubling → two-for-one twisting → steamed yarn,
wherein, the strip mixing process comprises the following steps: and (3) storing the wool tops prepared in the step (2) in an oiling agent and other auxiliary agents (1% of an antistatic agent and 3% of crude oil) for 24 hours.
The technology of the first needle, the second needle, the third needle and the fourth needle comprises the following steps: the color bars were tapered from 18g/m to 2g/m by 4 needle combs.
The roving process comprises the following steps: the spun roving is 0.18-0.2 g/m.
The spinning process comprises the following steps: the spun yarn comprises a spun yarn 1 and a spun yarn 2, wherein the spun yarn 1 is made of a first raw material (not containing lycra), the yarn count is 99.5Nm, the twist factor is 90, the twist direction Z is, and the twist number is 898 turns/m; the spun yarn 2 adopts the first raw material and lycra, and adopts core-spun yarn, the core yarn is lycra, the yarn count of the spun yarn 2 is 108Nm, the twist coefficient is 91.7, the twist direction is Z, and the twist number is 880 turns/m.
The yarn steaming process before automatic spooling comprises the following steps: and vacuumizing the spun yarn 2 for 30min at the temperature of 90 ℃.
Doubling and two-for-one twisting process: doubling and plying 2 spun yarns 1 in a twisting direction S to prepare warp yarns, twisting the warp yarns on a two-for-one twister to prepare the warp yarns with a twisting coefficient of 220 and a twist number 1508 of twist/meter; 1 spun yarn 1 and 1 spun yarn 2 are selected and doubled according to the twisting direction S to form weft yarns, the weft yarns are twisted on a two-for-one twister to form the weft yarns with the twist coefficient 165 and the twist number 1107 twist/meter.
The yarn steaming process after double twisting comprises the following steps: and (3) steaming the warps and the wefts after double twisting respectively, vacuumizing the warps for 30min at 90 ℃, vacuumizing the wefts for 40min at 90 ℃, and warehousing the warps and the wefts after steaming respectively.
The weaving process comprises the following steps: warping of warp → beaming of warp → warp drawing-in → manufacturing on warp and weft.
The warp warping process comprises the following steps: the warp yarns are arranged on the roller according to the designed density.
Warp yarn rewinding process: the warp on the warper was poured onto a beam and the drum was chilled.
And a warp drawing-in process: the warp yarns are threaded one by one onto each of the sheets according to the weave pattern of the fabric.
The weaving adopts 2/2 twill serge texture lines, the total tightness of the designed weaving fabric is 118, and the ratio of weft density to warp density is 0.9.
4. After finishing of grey cloth
The post-finishing process of the grey cloth comprises the following steps: raw trimming → singeing → high-temperature shaping → one-time open washing and continuous boiling → high-speed washing → relaxation broad width → drying → intermediate inspection → ripe trimming → secondary singeing → washing and shrinkage combined washing → secondary open washing and continuous boiling → high-temperature shaping and drying and soft finishing → shearing → decatizing → wetting → intermittence → hot polishing → intermittence → pot steaming → finished product,
wherein the raw repair process comprises the following steps: various defects are manually repaired.
The singeing process adopts a fire hole on the front side and a fire hole on the back side respectively, the flame temperature is 1000 ℃, and the speed is 110 m/min.
The high-temperature shaping process adopts the temperature of 190 ℃, the vehicle speed of 18m/min and the broad width of 170 cm.
The one-time open washing and continuous boiling is imported open washing and continuous boiling, the water temperature is 90 ℃, and an angora sizing agent is added.
The high-speed washing process adopts a 3% detergent with the temperature of 45 ℃, the speed of 300m/min, the washing time of 60min, and the washing time of 20 min.
And (3) drying process: the temperature is 150 ℃ and the speed is 40 m/min.
Intermediate checking: check if the previous finish caused a defect.
Curing: repairing the missed defects and repairing the defects generated by finishing.
And (3) secondary singeing process: the front and back of the flame are respectively provided with a fire hole, the flame temperature is 1000 ℃, and the speed is 110 m/min.
The washing and shrinking combined washing process adopts 3% soft washing agent with the temperature of 45 ℃, the speed of 200m/min, the washing time of 30min, and the washing time of 20 min.
The water temperature for the secondary open washing and continuous boiling is 80 ℃, and no auxiliary agent is added.
The high-temperature shaping, drying and softening finishing process adopts the temperature of 190 ℃, the vehicle speed of 18m/min, 3 percent of softening agent and 156cm wide width.
Decating process: 100 ℃ for 2 min.
A wetting process: 10 micron atomized water at normal temperature.
And (3) a lustre finishing process: the pressure of a press roll is 45kg, the temperature is 125 ℃, the speed is 20m/min, and the front side and the back side are ironed.
The two intervals are respectively 8 h.
The pot steaming process comprises the following steps: the pressure is 1.2bar, the time is 1.5min, the temperature is 130 ℃, and internal and external circulation is carried out.
The overall tightness of the fabric produced by the above process was 118 and the filling density 377 428/10 cm.
Performance testing
The fabric of the embodiment is subjected to performance test, and the test method and the result are as follows:
the final physical and chemical indexes of the product reach or exceed the first-class product requirements issued by the ministry, the mechanical crease resistance in the crease-resistant non-ironing performance reaches grade 5 (the ISO standard requirement is not less than 3.5 grade and is qualified, the highest grade 5 is good, the higher grade is good) through Shanghai Tianxiang quality technology service Limited company (ITS), and the water-washing (machine-washing for 3 times) non-ironing reaches grade 4 (the ISO standard requirement is not less than 3.5 grade and is qualified, the highest grade 5 is good).
And (3) reference of anti-wrinkle performance: ISO 9867 + 2009, appearance method.
Washing and ironing-free reference: ISO 7768-.
In other embodiments, dyed strips may be purchased from each stock.
The above embodiments are merely illustrative of the technical ideas and features of the present invention, and the purpose thereof is to enable those skilled in the art to understand the contents of the present invention and implement the present invention, and not to limit the protection scope of the present invention. All equivalent changes and modifications made according to the spirit of the present invention should be covered within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (6)

1. The utility model provides a crease-resistant easy-care surface fabric of wool spinning, adopts warp and woof to form through weaving, the raw materials of surface fabric include wool, elastic fiber and other fibre, its characterized in that: the warp is made by doubling and plying 2 spun yarns 1 and twisting for two times, and the twist coefficient of the warp is 220-240, and the twist number is 1400-1600 turns/m; the weft yarn is formed by doubling and plying the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2 and twisting the spun yarn for two times, the twist coefficient of the weft yarn is 140-165, and the twist number is 1000-1200 turns/m, wherein the spun yarn 1 is formed by blending the wool and other fibers, and the spun yarn 2 is formed by blending the wool, the elastic fibers and other fibers;
the spun yarn 1 has the yarn count of 80-110 Nm, the twist coefficient of 80-120, the twist number of 800-950 turns/m and the twist direction Z; the spun yarn 2 has the yarn count of 90-120 Nm, the twist coefficient of 80-120, the twist number of 800-950 turns/m and the twisting direction Z, and the twisting direction of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is S; the spun yarn 2 is core-spun yarn, and the core yarn is the elastic fiber;
in the spun yarn 1, the wool accounts for 65-80% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers; in the spun yarn 2, the elastic fiber accounts for 1-10% of the total mass of the wool, the elastic fiber and other fibers;
the other fibers comprise mulberry silk, terylene, bamboo charcoal fiber and conductive fiber;
the total tightness of the fabric is 115-120, and the ratio of weft density to warp density is 0.8-1.0.
2. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the elastic fiber is spandex.
3. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the polyester fiber accounts for 10-20% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, the mulberry silk accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, the bamboo charcoal fiber accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, and the conductive fiber accounts for 0.1-1% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers.
4. A production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the production method comprises the following steps:
(1) making the wool and other fibers into wool tops;
(2) spinning the wool tops and the elastic fibers to prepare yarns, and weaving to prepare grey cloth;
(3) carrying out post-treatment on the grey cloth to obtain a finished fabric product,
in the step (2), the spinning process comprises the following steps: mixed sliver → head needle → two needles → three needles → four needles → roving → spun yarn → steamed yarn → automatic spooling → doubling → two-for-one twisting → steamed yarn,
wherein the spun yarn comprises the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2;
the yarn steaming after the spinning process is to perform yarn steaming treatment on the spun yarn 2;
the yarn steaming after the double twisting process comprises the steps of respectively steaming the warp yarns and the weft yarns;
and the warp yarns and the weft yarns after the yarn steaming treatment are used for weaving the grey cloth.
5. The production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that:
the post-finishing process of the grey cloth comprises the following steps: raw trimming → singeing → high-temperature shaping → one-time open washing and continuous boiling → high-speed washing → relaxation broad width → drying → intermediate inspection → ripe trimming → secondary singeing → washing and shrinkage combined washing → secondary open washing and continuous boiling → high-temperature shaping and drying and soft finishing → shearing → decatizing → wetting → intermittence → hot polishing → intermittence → pot steaming → finished product,
wherein the high-speed washing process adopts a detergent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the speed of 200-400 m/min, the washing time of 40-80 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%;
the washing and shrinking combined washing process adopts a softening agent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the vehicle speed of 150-300 m/min, the washing time of 20-50 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%.
6. The production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: in the post-finishing process of the grey cloth,
the singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;
the high-temperature setting process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min and the breadth of 160-180 cm;
adding an angora sizing agent when the water temperature of the primary open washing and continuous boiling is 80-95 ℃;
the secondary singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;
the water temperature of the secondary open washing and continuous boiling is 75-85 ℃;
the high-temperature setting, drying and softening finishing process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min, the softening agent of 1-5% and the broad width of 140-160 cm;
the hot finishing process adopts a compression roller with the pressure of 40-50 kg, the temperature of 120-130 ℃, the speed of 15-25 m/min and the front face hot finishing.
CN201910975585.1A 2019-10-15 2019-10-15 Wool worsted super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and production method thereof Active CN110644115B (en)

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