KR20020047180A - Use of a vegetable oil product as agent for increasing skin lipid synthesis - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of vegetable oil product(s) (I) selected from oleo-distillates, unsaponifiables and/or furan lipids is claimed in the preparation of a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition (A) for promoting the synthesis of cutaneous lipids, specifically lipids of the epidermal cutaneous barrier, especially one or more of cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and ceramides 1 and 2. An independent claim is included for the use of (I) as a food or feed additive for promoting the synthesis of cutaneous lipids. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; vulnerary; antiinflammatory; antipruritic; antiseborrheic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Cutaneous lipid synthesis promoter.

Description

USE OF A VEGETABLE OIL PRODUCT AS AGENT FOR INCREASING SKIN LIPID SYNTHESIS

The skin is largely composed of three layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous fat tissue.

The outermost epidermis is keratinous from the basement layer to the stratum corneum, which is contained in the cementum between keratinocytes, a multilamellar extracellular lipid structure in which nucleus-free elements (keratocytes) are responsible for protecting the skin against water and external attack. It is characterized in that the layer is formed according to the increased state of differentiation of the site.

The lamellar or Oddland body secreted from the granular layer, the intermediate layer between the base layer and the stratum corneum, contain cholesterol, phospholipids and glucosyl ceramides, and optional hydrolases. These enzymes convert phospholipids and glucosyl ceramides into free fatty acids and ceramides, which together with cholesterol and cholesteryl sulfate form the intercellular lamellar bilayer of the stratum corneum. Ceramide is primarily involved in the formation of a protective layer formed by the stratum corneum and the regulation of moisture flow by incorporation of lamellae. Large decreases in ceramide content and types are observed, especially in atopic dermatitis (or atopic eczema) or acne (ceramide 1) and dry skin and pruritus in the elderly. Through certain sulfatase, cholesteryl sulfate is in equilibrium with cholesterol (leaflet glidant). They play an important role in keratinocyte binding, thus eliminating the epidermis of the skin and also the comfort of the skin.

These skin barriers caused by external attacks (UV irradiation, wind, cold, cleansers, etc.), natural and irresistible phenomena of aging and / or pathological or nonpathological dysfunction (sensitive, irritated or reactive skin). Damage to is evident in the destruction of epidermal homeostasis, which is desirable if it can be prevented and / or treated both cosmetically and pharmacologically, in particular dermatologically.

See, for example, Ruby Ghadially et al., "Decreased Epidermal Lipid Synthesis Accounts for Altered Barrier Function in Aged Mice", The Journal of Investigate Dermatology, vol. 106, no. 5, May 1996 teaches that abnormal lipid content in damaged skin barriers, and also in aged mouse epidermis, can be explained by synthetic damage of epidermal lipids.

Thus, the need to stimulate skin lipids, in particular the lipid synthesis of the epidermal skin barrier, to restore the skin barrier function of the epidermis, in particular, and / or to combat various skin diseases associated with the reduction of skin lipids, in particular the lipid synthesis of the epidermal skin barrier. This exists.

It has now been found that a very surprising and unexpected fact that certain vegetable oil products can be used to advantageously synthesize skin lipids, in particular the lipids of the epidermal skin barrier.

The present invention relates to the use of vegetable oil products as a medicament to increase the synthesis of skin lipids, in particular the lipid synthesis of the epidermal skin barrier, during or for the manufacture of cosmetic, pharmaceutical or skin compositions. The present invention also relates to methods of cosmetic treatment using cosmetic, pharmaceutical or skin compositions to increase skin lipids, in particular lipid synthesis of the epidermal skin barrier, and the use of plant products as food additives.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a skin lipid synthesis increasing agent, in particular a cosmetic, comprising at least one vegetable oil product selected from the group consisting of oil distillates of vegetable oils, non-saponifiable substances from vegetable oils, furan lipids of vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. Or as a lipid synthesis increasing agent of the epidermal skin barrier well known to those skilled in the art as described above or in the preparation of a composition containing or as a dermatologically acceptable medium.

In particular, the use according to the invention is characterized in that, in particular, the skin lipids are selected from epidermal lipids of the group consisting of cholesterol, cholesteryl sulfate, ceramides 1 and 2, and mixtures thereof.

Among the vegetable oils that can be used, in particular sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, black mustard oil, poppyseed oil, carrot butter oil, sweet almond oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, peanuts, cottonseed oil , Sesame oil, olive oil, corn oil, cocoa bean oil, castor oil, behen oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, hazelnut oil and turnip oil.

According to the invention, the term "oil distillate of vegetable oil" means a vegetable oil which has been subjected to a concentration step of a non-saponifiable substance (of vegetable oil).

Non-saponifiable substances are fractions of fatty substances that remain insoluble in water after prolonged alkaline basic action and can be extracted with organic solvents. The five main groups of substances are present in most of the non-saponifiable substances of vegetable oils (saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, aliphatic or terpineic alcohols, sterols, phytosterols, tocopherols and carotenoids and xanthophyll pigments).

Vegetable oils rich in tocopherols and / or phytosterols in non-saponifiable substances and / or oil distillates are particularly preferred for use according to the invention. One skilled in the art can readily appreciate that the term "rich" refers to all vegetable oils known to those skilled in the art, in particular tocopherol and phytosterol contents, which are each above the average content obtained in light of the foregoing.

Various methods can be used to concentrate the non-saponifiable substances of vegetable oils: crystallization under low temperature conditions, liquid-liquid extraction, molecular distillation.

Particular preference is given to molecular distillation, which is preferably carried out at pressures of from about 10 ⁻³ to about 10 ⁻² mmHg, preferably from 10 ⁻³ mmHg. The concentration of non-saponifiable material in the distillate can be up to 60%.

This molecular distillation as well as any other molecular distillation for the production of the vegetable oils used according to the invention are carried out using a device selected from a centrifugal molecular distillation unit and a scraped-film molecular unit as described below. It is preferable.

Centrifugal molecular distillation apparatuses are well known to those skilled in the art. For example, patent application EP-0 493 144 discloses a molecular distillation apparatus of this type. Generally, the material to be distilled is spread in the form of a thin film on the heated surface (hot surface) of the conical rotor rotating at high speed. The distillation chamber is placed under vacuum. Under these conditions, evaporation rather than boiling of the non-saponifiable material component occurs from the hot surface, the advantage of which is that the oil and the non-saponifiable material (these products are known to be brittle) do not decompose upon evaporation.

The piece-film molecular distillation apparatus known to those skilled in the art includes a distillation chamber with a rotating scraper, allowing the product to evaporate continuously on an evaporation surface (hot surface). The vapor of this product is concentrated by a cold finger located in the center of the distillation chamber. End feed and vacuum systems are very similar to those of centrifugal distillation apparatus (feed pumps, vane vacuum pumps and oil diffusion pumps, etc.). This residue and distillate are recovered in a round bottom flask made of glass by gravity flow.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, oil distillates of sunflower oil are used.

Oil distillates of sunflower oil are obtained by molecular distillation of food-grade sunflower oil. Preferred distillation conditions are as follows:

A temperature of 230 to 250 ° C .;

A pressure of 10 ⁻³ to 10 ⁻² mmHg;

A distillation of about 5 to 10 mass%.

The degree of distillation can be defined as follows: This is the mass ratio of distillate mass to 100% of the total (mass of distillate + mass of residue).

The distillate thus obtained, ie the oil distillate of sunflower oil, has an unsaponifiable substance content of about 6 to about 10% by weight, with the remainder consisting of sunflower oil triglycerides.

The non-saponifiable material of vegetable oil which can be used according to the present invention is preferably selected from the group consisting of non-saponifiable materials of avocado oil and non-saponifiable materials of soybean oil and mixtures thereof.

A comparison of the non-saponifiable content of various vegetable oils-soybean, cotton, coconut, olive and avocado-revealed that there was a very large amount of non-saponifiable material in the avocado oil obtained by extraction according to various known methods. Typically, a content of 2-7% non-saponifiable material in avocado oil was obtained compared to 0.5% in coconut oil, 1% in soybean oil and 1% in olive oil.

The higher amounts of non-saponifiable materials in avocado oils as compared to other vegetable oils as described above, particularly among non-saponifiable substances of avocado oils, such as furan compounds and polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols, This is explained by the presence of a component that is not generally found and represents at least 50% of a non-saponifiable substance per se. Products specific to these non-saponifiable substances of avocado oil can be divided into two chemical fractions, so-called "fraction I" and "fraction H". Active compounds suitable for use according to the invention are present in the H fraction and precursors thereof. The H fraction first appears on gas chromatography of non-saponifiable materials of avocado oil.

Regarding the non-saponifiable material of soybean oil, this non-saponifiable material is mainly composed of sterols (40 to 65%) and tocopherols (≧ 10%). Main sterols are β-sitosterol (40-70% of total sterol), campestrol (15-30% of total sterol) and stigmasterol (15-25% of total sterol). Tocopherol is present in the form of a mixture of α-tocopherol (5-35% of total tocopherol), γ-tocopherol (45-70% of total tocopherol) and δ-tocopherol (10-43% of total tocopherol).

Several methods for extracting non-saponifiable substances from vegetable oils have been described in the prior art literature.

Particular mention may be made of processes for the preparation of non-saponifiable materials of avocado oils described and claimed in patent FR-2 678 632 in the name of the Lavoratwar Farmachamps. This method is capable of obtaining non-saponifiable materials of avocado oil rich in H fractions as compared to conventional methods for preparing non-saponifiable materials of avocados.

Thus, the non-saponifiable material of the avocado oil used according to the invention can be obtained from fresh fruit, but the non-saponifiable material of avocado may be preheated before extracting the oil and saponifying it as described in patent FR-2 678 632. It is preferable to prepare from fruit.

This heat treatment is for at least 4 hours, preferably for at least 10 hours, preferably for about 24 hours to about 48 hours, preferably for at least about 80 ° C., more preferably for about 80 to 4 hours, of fresh fruit, preferably fresh fruit. Controlled drying at a temperature of about 120 ° C.

Mention may also be made of processes for the preparation of non-saponifiable materials of soybean oil obtained from concentrates of non-saponifiable materials of soybean oil. The concentrate of the non-saponifiable material is prepared by molecular distillation according to the same method as described for lupine oil in patent application FR-A 762 512, but suitable only for soybean oil. In this process, soybean oil is distilled in a centrifugal or flake-film molecular distillation apparatus at a temperature of about 210 ° C. to 250 ° C. under high vacuum of 0.01 to 0.001 millimeters of mercury (ie 0.13 to 1.3 Pa). The distillate thus obtained has a content of non-saponifiable material of 5 to 30% by weight, making up a concentrate of soybean oil non-saponifiable material. This concentrate is then saponified in the presence of ethanol potassium hydroxide according to conventional saponification techniques. The resulting mixture is extracted with dichloroethane in a countercurrent column. Finally, the solvent is removed from the solvent phase by passing the solvent through a drop-film evaporator to recover the non-saponifiable material of the soybean.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the non-saponifiable material of vegetable oil is a mixture of non-saponifiable materials of avocado oil and soybean oil, and the weight ratio of the non-saponifiable material of avocado oil to the non-saponifiable material of soybean oil is about 0.1 to about 9, Preferably from about 0.25 to about 0.6.

In particular, Lavora, consisting of a mixture of 33.3% by weight non-saponifiable material of avocado and about 66.6% by weight of non-saponifiable material of soybean oil, based on the total weight of the mixture, the remaining 0.1% consisting of colloidal silica and butylhydroxytoluene It is advantageous to use a non-saponifiable mixture of avocado oil and soybean oil, marketed under the tradename "Piaccledine 300 ^R " in Towar-Hormachamps.

According to the present invention, the expression “furan lipid of vegetable oil” comprises a 2-furyl group and at least one ethylenic or acetylene-based unsaturated compound at one end, or contains a saturated linear C ₁₁ -C ₁₉ hydrocarbon-based backbone Meaning a compound. Of the furan lipids of vegetable oils which can be used according to the invention, the most preferred are the furan lipids of avocados. This is because avocados contain certain lipids of furan type, the main component of which is linoleine furan.

Furan Compound H7

Furan derivatives of avocado oils are described in particular in Farines, M. et al, 1995, J. of Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 72, 473. It is currently well understood that the presence of these furan compounds in fruit or leaves depends not only on the varieties Hass and Fuerte being richest in furan compounds, but also on the way of obtaining the oil or other plant extracts of avocado (hexene or ethanol extract of avocado leaves). It is established.

Specifically, these furan lipids are metabolites of compounds originally present in fruits and leaves, dehydrated and cyclized by heat to produce furan derivatives.

For example, linoleine furan is derived from the thermal conversion of the following precursors:

Precursor P1H7

According to the invention, "furan lipid of avocado" means in particular the components corresponding to the formula:

Wherein R is at least one ethylenic or acetylene unsaturated, or is a saturated linear C ₁₁ -C ₁₉ , preferably C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon backbone.

Known methods of obtaining these specific compounds from avocado fruit or avocado fruit oil result in industrial methods or preparative chromatography, which obtain these furan lipids as a mixture of other non-saponifiable compounds of avocado, wherein the maximum content of furan containing lipids is only up to 50 To about 65 weight percent.

The novel preparation of these furan lipids of avocados was a challenge of a recently filed patent application. It consists mainly of a method of selectively extracting the furan lipid of avocado, and after the preparation of the non-saponifiable material of avocado, the pressure means controlled at a pressure of 10 ^-3 mmHg to 5 x 10 ^-2 mmHg to the avocado non-saponifiable material And undergoing a molecular distillation step using a temperature means controlled at a temperature of 100 to 160 ° C.

This molecular distillation step, using specific temperature and pressure conditions, together with the previous step of preparing the non-saponifiable material as described above, is an essential feature of this process.

According to the invention, the vegetable oil product as described above is used in a proportion of about 0.01 to 100% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetically, pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable media which can be used according to the invention can be any medium suitable for topical, oral, enteral or parenteral administration known to those skilled in the art. .

Specifically, the medium may be an oily solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an oily gel, an anhydrous gel, or a dispersion of a vehicle, microcapsules or microparticles.

The composition according to the invention is preferably suitable for administration by topical application.

The beneficial effect of increasing skin synthesis, in particular lipid synthesis of the epidermal skin barrier, may enable the prevention and / or treatment, ie the treatment, of skin barrier damage, which is formed primarily of the epidermal layer of the stratum corneum and granule layer, as described above.

Thus, the use according to the invention is characterized in that the composition is for treating dry skin and UV irradiated skin such as actinic radiation, in particular solar irradiation or UV lamp irradiation, for example during artificial tanning.

The use according to the invention also relates to the use of the composition in skin, skin diseases associated with the reduction of the lipid content of skin, acne, dryness, atopic dermatitis (or atopic eczema), skin lipids, in particular the epidermal skin barrier, and keratinocyte binding and the epidermis of the skin. For treating dropout disease, sensitive, irritated, reactive skin and pruritus.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for a disease associated with aging of the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or skin, wherein the composition containing one or more vegetable oils in a cosmetically acceptable medium as described above is applied to the skin, adjacent mucous membranes. And / or to the shell.

A subject of the present invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of a disease associated with the drying of the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or skin, wherein the composition containing one or more vegetable oil products in a cosmetically acceptable medium, as described above, comprises It is characterized in that it is applied to the mucous membrane and / or the outer shell.

The object of the present invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of skin, adjacent mucosal and / or dermal diseases caused by exposure to actinic radiation, in particular UV radiation, in which one or more vegetable oils are contained in a cosmetically acceptable medium as described above. It is characterized by applying the containing composition to the skin and / or the skin.

According to a preferred embodiment of these cosmetic treatment methods, the vegetable oil product is present in the composition in a proportion of about 0.01 to 100% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The object of the present invention is also a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or skin composition for increasing the lipid synthesis of the skin lipids, in particular the epidermal skin barrier, which is described above in cosmetically, pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable media. At least one vegetable oil product.

In this composition, it is preferred that the vegetable oil product is present in the composition at a ratio of about 0.01 to about 100 weight percent, preferably about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition.

Finally, another task of the present invention is to use one or more vegetable oil products as described above as additives in human and / or animal foods.

Such food uses preferably include vegetable oil products present in the food at a ratio of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the food.

The examples which follow are intended to illustrate the invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention in any way.

Unless otherwise noted, the percentages described in the examples refer to weight percentages.

Example 1

Preparation of oil-in-water emulsion type vegetable oil products according to the present invention and uses thereof

The following compositions 1.1 to 1.3 and placebo compositions were prepared in the following manner:

The components of the aqueous phase (water and glycerol) are placed in a 75 ° C. water bath. The components of the fat phase except for Cepigel 305, Silicoun SF 1202 and vegetable oil products (prepared as described below under the names of "Sunflower Oil Distillate 1", "Unsaponsible Substance 1" and "Lipid 1" respectively) at 75 ° C. Placed in the tank. Immediately before emulsification, silicoun 1202 and each vegetable oil product are added to the fat phase. The emulsion is then prepared by incorporating the fatty phase into the aqueous phase and turbomixing at low speed. When the formulation reaches a temperature of 60 ° C., Sepigel 305 is added with high speed turbomixing. Next, the composition is left to cool to room temperature before use in the test described below.

1.1) Composition 1.1: Use of Oil Distillate of Sunflower Oil

Sunflower oil distillate is prepared by molecular distillation of commercially available food grade sunflower oil in a centrifugal molecular still. Distillation conditions are as follows:

Temperature 220 ° C .;

Pressure 10 ⁻³ mmHg;

Distillation degree: 6/7 mass%;

Feed rate: 18 kg / h.

The resulting distillate, sunflower oil distillate, has an unsaponifiable content of about 6.2% by weight, with the remainder consisting of sunflower oil triglycerides. Thus, the oil distillate is called "sunflower oil distillate 1".

Composition 1.1 (INCI Composition) %(weight) Aqueous phase water 67.3 Glycerol 4 Fat statue Sorbitan tristearate 1.85 PEG-40 Stearate 3.15 Silicon Co. SF 1202 3 Cetiol Oe One Petroleum Jelly Codex 2.5 Glyceryl Stearate 6 Decyl pentanoate 3 Sunflower oil distillate 1 2 beeswax 3 PEG-2 stearate One C12-15 alcohol benzoate One Phenonib 0.7 Sepigel 305 0.3 Sum 100%

1.2) Composition 1.2: Use of a mixture of non-saponifiable materials obtained from avocados and soybeans

A mixture of avocado oil and non-saponifiable material from soybean oil sold under the trade name "Piaccledine 300 ^R " in Lavoratwar Farmachamps (33.3% by weight of non-saponifiable material of avocados, based on the total weight of the mixture and 66.6% of non-saponifiable material from soybean, the remaining 0.1% consisting of colloidal silica and butyl-hydroxytoluene). This mixture is hereinafter referred to as "non-saponifiable substance 1".

Composition 1.2 (INCI Name) %(weight) Aqueous phase water 67.3 Glycerol 4 Fat statue Sorbitan tristearate 1.85 PEG-40 Stearate 3.15 Silicon Co. SF 1202 3 Cetiol Oe One Petroleum Jelly Codex 2.5 Glyceryl Stearate 6 Decyl pentanoate 3 Non-saponifiable substances 1 2 beeswax 3 PEG-2 stearate One C12-15 alcohol benzoate One Phenonib 0.7 Sepigel 305 0.5 Sum 100%

1.3) Composition 1.3: Use of Avocado Lipids Containing Furan

Non-saponifiable materials from avocados are prepared as described in patent FR-2 678 632. Its composition is as follows:

Polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols (24.3%)

Furan-containing lipids 55.5%

Sterol 3.1%

-Squalene 1.4%

-15.7% (1)

(1) free fatty acids, hydrocarbons, tocopherols, fatty ketones and heavy pigments

This non-saponifiable material is molecularly distilled using a piece-film molecular distiller sold by Raybold under the trade name "KDL4". Distillation conditions are as follows:

-High temperature surface temperature: 108 ℃

Pressure: 10 ^-3 mmHg

-Rotation speed of shaft: 240 rpm

-Flow rate of non-saponifiable material from avocado: 400 ml / h

Yield of distillate: 48.6%

Composition of Distillate:

Polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols: n.m.

Furan-containing lipids: 99.1%

Sterol n.m.

-Squalene n.m.

-Other 0.9% (1)

(1) free fatty acids, hydrocarbons and fatty ketones

("n.m.": not measurable, ie less than 0.05% content)

Thus, this is a distillate which is very rich in furan-containing lipids since the content of furan-containing lipids exceeds 99%. This distillate is referred to below as "lipid 1".

Composition 1.3 (INCI Name) %(weight) Aqueous phase water 69 Glycerol 4 Fat statue Sorbitan tristearate 1.85 PEG-40 Stearate 3.15 Silicon Co. SF 1202 3 Cetiol Oe One Petroleum Jelly Codex 2.5 Glyceryl Stearate 6 Decyl pentanoate 3 Geology 1 0.3 beeswax 3 PEG-2 stearate One C12-15 alcohol benzoate One Phenonib 0.7 Sepigel 305 0.5 Sum 100%

1.4) Placebo Composition

Placebo Composition (INCI Name) %(weight) Aqueous phase water 69.3 Glycerol 4 Fat statue Sorbitan tristearate 1.85 PEG-40 Stearate 3.15 Silicon Co. SF 1202 3 Cetiol Oe One Petroleum Jelly Codex 2.5 Glyceryl Stearate 6 Decyl pentanoate 3 beeswax 3 PEG-2 stearate One C12-15 alcohol benzoate One Phenonib 0.7 Sepigel 305 0.5 Sum 100%

Example 2 In Vitro Evaluation of the Effects of Compositions 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and Placebo on Metabolism of Epidermal Lipids in an Organotypical Model of Whole Human Skin in Culture

The following abbreviations are used herein later:

EGF: epidermal growth factor;

TLC: thin layer chromatography;

MCF: culture medium for human skin disks;

MIF: incubation medium for human skin disc

PBS: Phosphate Buffered Saline

The purpose of this study is to study the effects of the four compositions 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and placebo described above on the metabolism of epidermal lipids.

This study is performed in vitro in an organic characterization model of whole human skin in culture. Two techniques are used in succession:

Measurement of carbon 14 radiolabeled acetate incorporation into all of the synthesized epidermal lipids;

Analysis separating the major class of radiolabeled epidermal lipids synthesized by thin layer chromatography.

The effect of the test product is compared to that observed in the presence of epidermal growth factor (EGF) diluted in culture medium on human skin discs and in the presence of commercial cosmetic compositions containing lactic acid. Both EGF and lactic acid stimulate the ceramide synthesis by keratinocytes in a known manner [Ponec M. Gibbs S., Weerheim A., Kempenaar J., Mulder A. and Mommaas A.M. -Epidermal growth factor and temperature regulated Keratinocytes differentiation-Arch. Dermatol. Res., 1997, 289, 317-326; and Rawlings AV, Davies A., Carlomusto M., Pillai S. Ahang K., Kosturbo R., Verdejo P., Feinberg C., Nguyen L. and Chandar P. -Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier fuction-Arch. Dermatol. Res., 1996, 288, 383-390].

1) Materials and Methods

1.1) Test Products, Reference Products and Reagents

Compositions 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and placebo were prepared as described above. EGF was obtained from R & D Systems. Cosmetic compositions containing lactic acid, hereinafter referred to as "lactic acid", were purchased from a supermarket marketing network.

The washing solution of the human skin disc after incubation is PBS buffer: 8 g / l NaCl; 1.15 g / l Na ₂ HPO ₄ ; 0.2 g / l KH ₂ PO ₄ ; 0.2 g / l KCl; 0.1 g / l CaCl ₂ ; 0.1 g / l MgCl ₂ ; pH 7.4.

Other reagents of analytical grade are obtained from Carlo Eva, Gibco and Sigma, unless otherwise noted.

1.2) test system

Human skin fragments were collected after abdominal plastic surgery. This was done for a 24 year old woman (Subject I0129). A skin disc 8 mm in diameter was cut using a sample punch.

Place the skin disk in the gondola. MEM / M199 medium (3) supplemented with gondola with penicillin (50 IU / ml), streptomycin (50 μg / ml), sodium bicarbonate (0.2%, w / v%) and FCS (2%, v / v) / 4, 1/4; v / v) in culture wells containing MCF medium.

1.3) Incubation of test and reference products with a test system

The test product is tested undiluted. They are placed at the rate of 10 mg / cm ² in the center of each human skin disc. Incubated medium for human skin discs (MIF medium) consists of MCF medium containing 1 μCi / ml of acetate labeled with carbon 14 (Amersham, specific activity: 57 mCi / mmol).

EGF is tested at 10 ng / ml in MIF medium. Lactic acid is used for topical application (10 mg / cm ² ).

Human skin discs are incubated for 18 hours at 37 ° C. in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO _{2 in} the presence of test and reference products.

Control skin discs are incubated simultaneously in the presence of test and reference products.

Each experimental condition is performed four times.

The following time scales are used:

: Topical application of dilutions of EGF and test and reference products in incubation media for skin discs

Δ: addition of carbon 14 labeled acetate into the culture medium

□: dermal / epidermal separation and evaluation

1.4) Evaluation of the Effect

1.4.1) Synthesis of Total Epidermal Lipids

At the end of incubation, the human skin discs are thoroughly washed with PBS buffer. The epidermis of each skin disc is separated from the dermis by controlled heat shock (MilliQ water, 2 minutes, 62 ° C.). The epidermis thus separated is digested (cut) overnight at 37 ° C. with trypsin (ICN, 1%, w / v). Cell separation is facilitated by the action of ultrasound. Synthetic lipids labeled with carbon 14 are extracted by partitioning between the organic phase (1/4 methanol / chloroform, v / v) and the aqueous phase (0.25 M potassium chloride). The organic phase is evaporated under nitrogen and the residue is taken up in a 2/1 chloroform / methanol mixture (v / v).

The radioactivity of each sample corresponding to the amount of acetate incorporated into the synthetic lipid is measured by lipid scintillation.

Results are expressed in cpm / mg (epidermal).

1.4.2) Characteristics of Synthetic Epidermal Lipids

Starting with a sample of extracted lipids, a 20 μl aliquot corresponding to 3 700 cpm is placed on a silica 60 (Merck) chromatography plate. These plates are developed in three successive solvents:

38/2/10 chloroform / acetone / methanol (v / v / v),

40/5/5 chloroform / acetone / methanol (v / v / v),

36/10/3/1 chloroform / ethyl acetate / ether / methanol (v / v / v / v /).

This system allows for the separation of cholesteryl sulfate, cerebroside, ceramide, cholesterol and tri-diglycerides. The largest polar lipid, hereinafter referred to as "polar lipid", remains on the baseline.

Subsequently, the silica plate is left exposed to the film for 15 days for self-spinning (Amersham, Hyperfilm beta max).

The location of various classes of lipids—polar lipids, cholesteryl sulfate, cerebroside, ceramides 1 and 2, cholesterol and tri- + diglycerides—is measured using appropriate standards.

Radioactivity isolated and known by magnetic radiation is counted using a thin film argon-methane radioactivity analyzer (Berthold). This result is expressed as a percentage of total synthesized lipid radioactivity and is shown on TLC.

1.5) Processing of Data

Data groups (control and treatment) are compared by Dunnett test after 1-factor analysis of change (Anova 1, p <0.05).

2) results

After overnight incubation in the presence of human skin discs, the test and reference compositions do not have a significant effect on the synthesis of total epidermal lipids (Table 3.1). On the other hand, they significantly change the proportion of various epidermal lipids throughout:

At 10 ng / ml EGF reduced cholesteryl sulphate up to 46% and increased ceramide 2 up to 55% (Table 3.2);

Lactic acid increases the synthesis of cerebromide by factor 1.59 (Table 3.2);

Composition 1.1 increases the synthesis of ceramides 1 and 2 by factors 2.26 and 4.61 and the synthesis of cholesterol by factor 5.04, respectively. This reduces the synthesis of tri- and diglycerides by 73% (Table 3.3);

Composition 1.2 increases the synthesis of cholesteryl sulfate by factor 1.32 and the synthesis of ceramide 1 and 2 by factor 2.47 and 2.51, respectively. This reduces the synthesis of tri- and diglycerides by 77% (Table 3.2);

Composition 1.3 increases the synthesis of cholesteryl sulfate by factor 1.24, the synthesis of ceramides 1 and 2 by factor 1.59 and 3.66 respectively, and the synthesis of cholesterol by factor 4.14. This reduces the synthesis of tri- and diglycerides by 84% (Table 3.2);

The placebo composition reduces the synthesis of tri- and diglycerides by 59% without causing a significant increase in the various epidermal lipids to be analyzed (Table 3.3).

In conclusion, under the experimental conditions used, compositions 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and placebo do not have any significant effect on the synthesis of total epidermal lipids.

On the other hand, they significantly change the proportion of the various classes of epidermal lipids separated by thin layer chromatography as a whole.

They reduce the synthesis of tri- and diglycerides for other epidermal lipids.

Composition 1.1 increases the synthesis of cholesterol and the synthesis of ceramide (without changing the synthesis of cholesteryl sulfate).

Compositions 1.2 and 1.3 increase the synthesis of cholesteryl sulfate and cholesterol and increase the synthesis of ceramide.

The placebo composition does not cause a significant increase in the various epidermal lipids to be analyzed.

3) Result Table

Table 3.1

Effect of Cosmetic Compositions Containing Compositions 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and Placebo, and also EGF and Lactic Acid on Synthesis of Total Epidermal Lipids in Whole Human Skin Discs After 18 Hour Incubation

Results are expressed in cpm / mg (epidermal).

Bold: mean and standard deviation

Italics: percentage of control

*: Mean (p <0.05) significantly different from control

Table 3.2

Cosmetic compositions containing polar lipids, cholesteryl sulfate, cerebromide, ceramides 1 and 2, cholesterol and tri- + diglyceride syntheses in whole human skin discs after 18 hours of incubation, 1.2 and 1.3, EGF and lactic acid Effect

Results are expressed as percentage of total radiolabeled lipid, applied on TLC.

Bold: mean and standard deviation

Italics: percentage of control

+: Mean significantly different from control (p <0.05)

Table 3.3

Effect of Composition 1.1 and Placebo on Polar Lipids, Cholesteryl Sulfate, Cerebroside, Ceramides 1 and 2, Cholesterol and Tri- + Diglyceride Synthesis in Whole Human Skin Discs After 18 Hour Culture

The results are expressed as percentage of total radiolabeled lipids applied on TLC.

Bold: mean and standard deviation

Italics: percentage of control

+: Mean significantly different from control (p <0.05)

Example 3 Cream Composition for Atopic Skin

INCI Composition%

Water qs100

Glycerol15

Petrolatum 2

Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil 5

Capryl / Capri Triglycerides 5

Cyclomethicone1

Sucrose Distearate 4

Dextrin 3

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Seed Oil

Non-saponifiable substances (1) 1

Squalane 2

Candelilla wax (1)

Sucrose Stearate 2

Out Mill1

Dimethicone 0.2

Methylparaben0.4

Propylparaben0.3

Xanthan Gum 0.2

Ceramide 30.2

Sum : 100%

(1) Sunflower oil distillate 1 of Example 1

Example 4 Bath Oil Composition for Atopic Skin

INCI Composition%

Sunflower (Helianthus anuluus) seed oil qs100

Octyl Cocoate15

Sweet Almond (Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis) Oil 15

Mineral oils1

PEG-6 isostearate 5

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Seed Oil

Non-saponifiable substances(One) 60

Chamomile Oil (Artemis Nobilis) Oil 5

Propylene glycol dipellagonate1

Lecithin1

Lauret-20.5

Tocopherol0.5

Ascorbyl Palmitate0.06

Sum : 100%

(1) Sunflower oil distillate of Example 1

Example 5

Clinical studies to evaluate the management effect of Composition 1.1 of Example 1 on “Atopy” adult volunteers once per week and after repeated application under dermatological control and examination of satisfactory topical skin tolerance

1) Materials and Methods

1.1 Purpose of the study

This study was conducted firstly in "Atopy" adult volunteers with very dry and flat body skin, once every four weeks and after repeated application of skin. First, the management of cosmetic products by various biometric measurements with clinical evaluation ( care effects are assessed and, secondly, their satisfactory local skin tolerance is examined.

1.2 Test Issues

"Double blind" assessment based on:

The well-known principle of electrical conductivity of the skin for measuring the state of moisturization of the epidermal top layer (Tagami H. et al., 1980; Korstanje et al., 1992);

The principle of photometry (detailed measurement) to assess the effect of relipidizing on cosmetic products;

Analysis by optical microscopy of the surface “biopsy” performed by exfoliation with a cyanoacrylate adhesive, which makes it possible to measure the effect of the cosmetic product on the “microdepression network (MDN)”;

Clinical evaluation by the supervisor, self-assessment by the panelist

1.3 Inclusion Criteria

“Atopy” volunteers with dry to very dry and some flat body skin (dry score ≧ 5 on 1-9 scale).

1.4 Study Population

Eighteen "atopy" adult female volunteers (or 20 for kinetics) with dry to very dry skin aged 20 to 28 years (two in the study dropout, irrespective of application).

1.5 Application Method

One application: Randomly, on the skin of the right or left leg, a limit of 0.07 ml of product, ie 2 μl / cm ^2, was applied to one or two sites of about 35 cm ² . Control sites were delimited for each measurement form (Corneometry and DetailMetro).

Repeat use: Twice a day, under normal use conditions, the applicant himself / herself is used for 4 weeks in a bust at home.

1.6 method

One application: Before application of the product, at about 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours and 24 hours after application, the site treated with the test product (moisturizing kinetics only) and also the untreated control site (one control site per measurement form). Measurement of electrical capacitance using Corneometry ^TM (Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Germany) and measurement of the initial level of surface skin lipids using Cebumetry ^TM SM 810 PC (Curage and Khazaka).

Repeat use:

Measurement of electrical capacitance using Corneometry ^TM (Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Germany) on the site treated with the test product before use and after 4 weeks of use;

Optical microscopy on a semistructured linear scale of 12 cm after the surface “biopsy” was produced by exfoliation, taking into account the surface appearance and cleanliness and surface appearance of the Microdepression Network before application and after 4 weeks of application. Analysis by;

Self-assessment of “dry”, “roughness”, and “epidermal exfoliation” of the skin by panelists and clinical evaluation by study inspectors based on similar visual scales or clinical scores at the same time as described above;

Evaluation of the topical skin tolerance of the product by a dermatologist after 4 weeks of use;

Temperature and relative humidity adjusted and tested at each test time (T ° = 22 ± 2 ° C. and RH = 50 ± 5%).

1.7 Statistics

Instrumental experiments (Corneometry and Detail): ANOVA and multiple comparison tests for absolute values and differences (Δ Tx-T0) (p <0.05).

MDN, similar scale and clinical score: paired Wilcoxon test ("two tails", p <0.05).

Calculation of percentage change in parameters evaluated in the study.

2) results

2.1 Effects on Epidermal Skin Lipid Levels After Single Application (Sebumetre ^TM )

At about 1 hour, 2 hours and 3 hours after the first application, a statistically significant increase in the level of surface skin lipids is observed compared to the values and initial measurements recorded on the control site, which is immediate and marked relipidation. Although reflecting the effect, it does not appear about 24 hours after application (there is no oily film remaining on the skin surface, which reflects the total absorption of composition 1.1).

2.2 Effect on the degree of moisturizing of the epidermal top layer after single or repeated application (Corneometre ^TM )

After 1 application (n = 20)

About 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours and 24 hours after one application of composition 1.1, a statistically significant increase in electrical capacitance is found compared to the measurements recorded in the initial measurement and control areas.

After 4 weeks of repeated use (n = 18)

A statistically significant increase in electrical capacitance is observed compared to the initial measurement.

Table 5.1

Moisturizing increase Control site Composition 1.1 (Example 1) T 1 hour + 0.0% + 48.6% ° T 2 hours + 1.0% + 58.7% ° T 3 hours + 0.5% + 64.4% ° T 24 hours + 2.9% + 34.2% ° T 4 weeks + 22.4% °

°: statistically significant increase compared to untreated control site

2.3 Effects on Microdepression Networks

(Optical microscopic analysis of surface “biopsy”: 12 cm semistructured linear scale)

After 4 weeks of application, statistically significant restructuring is found in the microdepression network.

Table 5.2

Composition 1.1 (Example 1) Micro relief + 10% Surface appearance + 52%

2.4 Clinical Evaluation by the Research Supervisor

(clinical score in g-points)

After 4 weeks of application, a statistically significant change is observed in the following criteria.

Table 5.3

Composition 1.1 (Example 1) Dry skin -54% (p = 0.0002) Skin roughness -52% (p = 0.0002) Epidermis dropout -54% (p = 0.0004)

2.5 Self Assessment by Applicants

(10-point pseudo visual scale)

After 4 weeks of application, statistically significant changes were observed in the following criteria.

Table 5.4

Composition 1.1 (Example 1) Dry skin -60% (p = 0.0002) Skin roughness -55% (p = 0.0002) Epidermis dropout -60% (p = 0.0004)

3) Conclusion

In conclusion, the results of a single application of composition 1.1 to 20 “atopy” female adult volunteers with dry to very dry skin compared to the untreated control site (under double blind conditions):

Significant and immediate relipidation effect, which is significant in terms of the content of surface skin lipids (photometric) compared to the untreated control site, reflects a remarkable and immediate relipidation effect, which does not appear at 24 hours after application and no residual oily film on the skin surface. Reflects the total absorption of the product;

Significant effect on the degree of moisturization of the epidermal top layer at about 1, 2, 3 and 24 hours after application (measurement of electrostatic capacitance), reflecting good residual magnetism.

The results of repeated application twice daily for four consecutive weeks under normal use by a panel of 18 female adults are as follows:

-Statistically significant effect on the degree of moisturizing of the epidermal top layer;

-Statistically significant restructuring of microdepression network

-Statistically significant improvement in the appearance of the skin (dryness, roughness and epidermis dropout).

In addition, the majority of panelists made a positive judgment about the effect of composition 1.1 and its cosmetic quality as a "dry skin care cream".

In addition, the application of the studied composition 1.1 proved to be very well tolerated.

Thus, these results may justify the following properties for composition 1.1:

Immediate relipidation effect,

-Immediate and long lasting moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the epidermis,

-Improvement of skin appearance, and

Limits and efficacy tested under dermatological monitoring.

Claims (31)

1 type selected from the group consisting of oil distillates of vegetable oils, non-saponifiable substances obtained from vegetable oils, furan lipids of vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof for the production of cosmetic compositions for the preparation of a composition containing a pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable medium. Uses of more vegetable oil products. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the skin lipid is selected from epidermal lipids of the group consisting of cholesterol, cholesteryl sulfate, ceramides 1 and 2 and mixtures thereof. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the oil distillates and non-saponifiable substances of the vegetable oil are selected from the group consisting of oil distillates and non-saponifiable substances rich in tocopherols and / or phytosterols. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil distillate of vegetable oil is an oil distillate of sunflower oil. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-saponifiable material obtained from the vegetable oil is an unsaponifiable material obtained from avocado or soybean or a mixture thereof. The non-saponifiable material obtained from vegetable oil is a mixture of saponifiable material obtained from avocado oil and non-saponifiable material obtained from soybean oil, and from non-saponifiable material obtained from avocado oil from soybean oil. The weight ratio of the non-saponifiable material obtained is from about 0.1 to about 9. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the furan lipid of the vegetable oil is furan lipid of avocado. 8. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil product is used in a proportion of about 0.01% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains a cosmetically, pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable medium. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetically or pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable medium is an oily solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an oily gel, an anhydrous gel, Use as a vehicle dispersion, microcapsules or microparticles. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for topical application. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for the treatment of dry skin. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating actinic radiation, in particular UV irradiated skin. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating young children. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating acne. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating dryness. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating atopic dermatitis. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating skin diseases associated with a decrease in the content of skin lipids, in particular epidermal skin barrier lipids. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating sensitive skin. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating irritated skin. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating reactive skin. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating a disease of keratinocyte binding. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for treating epidermal detachment of the skin. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is for the treatment of pruritus. Skin lipids, in particular epidermal skin barrier lipids, are applied to the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or skin by a composition containing at least one vegetable oil product as defined in claim 1 in a cosmetically acceptable medium. A method of cosmetic treatment of a disease associated with aging of the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or the skin, characterized by increasing the synthesis of. Skin lipids, in particular epidermal skin barrier lipids, are applied to the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or skin by a composition containing at least one vegetable oil product as defined in claim 1 in a cosmetically acceptable medium. A method of cosmetic treatment of a disease associated with the drying of the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or skin, characterized by increasing the synthesis of. Skin lipids, in particular epidermal skin barrier lipids, comprising a composition containing at least one vegetable oil product as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 in a cosmetically acceptable medium, applied to the skin, adjacent mucosa and / or skin. A method for the cosmetic treatment of diseases of the skin, adjacent mucous membranes and / or integuments due to exposure to actinic radiation, in particular UV radiation, characterized in that it increases the synthesis of. 28. The method of any one of claims 25-27, wherein the vegetable oil product is present in the composition at a rate of about 0.01% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 29. The method of any one of claims 25-28, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is the same as defined in claim 10. Use of at least one vegetable oil product as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 as an additive which acts to increase the synthesis of skin lipids, in particular epidermal skin barrier lipids, in human and / or animal foods. 31. The use of claim 30, wherein the vegetable oil product is present in the food at a ratio of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the food.