KR20130134532A - Multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for relieving skin irritation and for recovering skin barrier, and cosmetic composition comprising the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a multi-layered liquid crystal vesicle for relieving skin irritation and recovering a skin barrier, and a cosmetic composition comprising the same, and more particularly, to: a composite for relieving skin irritation including panthenol, an essential fatty acid ester composite, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate; a multi-layered liquid crystal water unit including an amphipathic lipid composite, polyol and water; a multi-layered liquid crystal vesicle for relieving skin irritation and recovering a skin barrier including phospholipid, oil, higher fatty acid, and lactic acid; and a cosmetic composition comprising the same. The multi-layered liquid crystal vesicle has a stable state by including a composite showing high effects for relieving skin irritation and recovering a skin barrier, and not only increses the amount of skin absorption and by liquid crystal and penetrating force but also prevents skin irritation relieving material from being oxidezed, and thereby, is applied to diverse cosmetic compositions. [Reference numerals] (AA) Skin barrier recovering rate (%);(BB) Dosage form example 1;(CC) Example 1;(DD) Untreated group;(EE) 1 day;(FF) 2 days;(GG) 3 days

Description

Multilayer Liquid Crystal Vesicle for relieving skin irritation and for recovering skin barrier, and cosmetic composition comprising the same}

The present invention is a multi-layer that can be applied to a variety of cosmetic compositions by enveloping a substance having excellent skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery effect in a high content, and not only increase the skin absorption and penetration by the liquid crystal, but also prevent oxidation of the skin irritant substances. It relates to a liquid crystal vesicle and a cosmetic composition comprising the same.

The skin is a part directly exposed to the external environment, and when exposed to excessive ultraviolet rays or contaminants, skin irritation and inflammatory reactions such as erythema, edema, rash, tingling, and itching are induced. In addition, fatty acids, higher alcohols, and proteins in sebum, sweat, and external skin components that are released from the body are decomposed into highly toxic substances by skin floras present on the skin, thereby causing skin inflammation. May be

Skin problems caused by skin irritation stress are not only aesthetic problems, but the troubles caused by inflammation are caused by inflammation if the irritant that stimulates inflammation is not eliminated or made continuously, even after the initial condition is restored to normal function. Cells and connective tissue caused by the proteolytic enzymes are damaged. The damage of the connective tissue decreases the elasticity of the skin and causes wrinkles as well as adversely affects the regeneration and proliferation of cells, resulting in rapid skin aging.

Inflammation-mediating agents in human keratinocytes and langerhans cells, prostaglandin (PG), cytokines (cytokine), chemokines (chemokine), bradykinin, nitric oxide, histamine ) Is known. Among these, prostaglandins are involved in physiological or pathological changes such as inflammation, platelet aggregation, and neurotransmitter release. PGE2 promotes Th2 type immune responses, inhibits Th1 type immune responses, and induces TNF-α IL-1β IL- in macrophages, as well as known mediators of inflammatory responses such as vasodilation, edema and fever. 8, it has been shown to act as a regulator of the immune response that inhibits the production of inflammatory cytokines such as IL-12 and promotes the production of anti-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-10. In addition, histamine, which accounts for one third of the itch, is used as an index for suppressing the inflammatory response as a representative inflammatory mediator.

Currently, in order to evaluate the skin irritation relief effect, the subjects themselves may feel irritating feelings such as stinging or burning sensation in a site where only the irritant-inducing substance is treated, and the irritant-inducing substance and the irritating agent are treated simultaneously. The sensory irritation test method, which scores and evaluates, is mainly used.

Among the cosmetic ingredients, retinoids, kojic acid, and fruit acid, which are functional ingredients used for the purpose of exfoliating skin, whitening effect, and improving wrinkles, are representative substances causing troubles on the skin. Due to the intrinsic stimulus factors, there were many limitations on their use at concentrations capable of exhibiting maximum efficacy. Therefore, in order to reduce skin irritation and inflammation caused by various stress sources, and to reduce skin side effects due to the use of cosmetics and active ingredients that exhibit efficacy, there is an urgent need to develop substances having skin stimulating efficacy.

Skin diseases and atopic dermatitis due to skin inflammatory reactions are known to be due to abnormal changes in lipid composition constituting the lipid protective film of the stratum corneum. Therefore, many studies have been conducted in the field of dermatology and cosmetics for the development of a product combining ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acids, which are important components of intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum, which acts as a skin barrier.

These intercellular lipids consist in principle of 50% ceramide, 20-25% cholesterol, 20-25% free fatty acids, 10% cholesterol esters and 1-2% cholesterol sulfate and the like. These intercellular lipids form a "BRICS & MOTAR MODEL" structure that contains a small amount of phytosphingosine and phospholipids to form a lipid membrane (Lipid Lamella Barrier) that inhibits water evaporation. Healthy skin constantly creates new skin barriers to maintain skin homeostasis.

On the other hand, as a method for including a large amount of the bioactive material in the cosmetics, a method of encapsulating the bioactive material into a liquid crystal film has been considered.

Korean Patent Registration No. 10-022200 proposes a cosmetic composition using an oil phase portion of a liposome-ized multi-liquid crystal composed of a liquid crystal forming emulsifier, a liquid crystal liposome reinforcing agent, and other additives, and Korean Patent Registration No. 10-0279073 discloses a liquid crystal film. By suggesting a multi-liquid crystal film capsule for cosmetics containing a forming agent, a surfactant, an oily base, a moisturizer, and water, it has been disclosed that the stabilization of the bioactive substance is greatly improved.

The liposomes and liquid crystals based on the existing ceramides have low solubility and are easily crystallized due to the hydrophobicity of ceramides and phytosphingosins, resulting in poor product stability, limited usage, and inadequate application of inappropriate intercellular lipid components and anti-inflammatory active ingredients. As a result, it was difficult to obtain high expected effects to alleviate or improve various inflammatory reactions.

Republic of Korea Patent Registration No. 10-022200 Republic of Korea Patent Registration No. 10-0279073

The present invention is a new skin irritation complex is obtained by combining a variety of substances with different stimulation mechanisms while conducting research on substances that have already been proved to be safe for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, which are multi-layer liquid crystal vesicles. By enveloping, the present invention has been completed by revealing an excellent stimulating effect and reducing skin irritation sensitivity as well as restoring a skin barrier.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle for reducing skin irritation and repairing skin barrier for a long time at high temperature, including a complex of skin irritation complex and a new composition.

In addition, another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition capable of increasing skin absorption and skin penetration, including the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for relieving skin irritation and restoring skin barrier.

In order to achieve the above object,

A skin irritation relief complex comprising panthenol, an essential fatty acid ester complex and dipotassium glycyrizeate, and a multilayer liquid crystal phase comprising an amphipathic lipid complex, polyol and water,

Provided is a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier repair comprising a multilayer liquid crystal oil phase comprising phospholipids, oils, higher fatty acids, and lactic acid.

In addition, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for the skin irritation relief and skin barrier repair.

The multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle according to the present invention contains a high content of a substance having excellent skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery effect, and maintains a stable dispersion state at a high temperature for a long time.

In addition, it can be applied to various cosmetic compositions by increasing the skin absorption and penetration by the liquid crystal as well as preventing oxidation of the skin irritation-reducing substance.

1 is a cold field emission scanning microscope (Cryo-FE-SEM, HITACHI S-4700) image of the particles of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle prepared in Example 1. FIG.
FIG. 2 is a polarized light microscope image of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle prepared in Example 1, wherein (a) shows the image after preparation and (b) after 4 weeks storage at 45 degrees.
3 is a graph showing the change of the percutaneous moisture loss in the lotion composition of Formulation Example 1, the treatment group treated with the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of Example 1, and the untreated group.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention provides a new skin irritation relief complex composition by screening materials that have already been proven to be stable for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery to mix different materials with different stimulation relief mechanisms. To increase the multilayered liquid crystal vesicles prepared using amphipathic lipid complexes are presented.

6 known anti-irritants in - vitro Among the components of the mechanism study results, anti-stimulating agents that exhibit anti-stimulatory effects by being involved in COX pathway, NF-κB pathway, and histamine pathway were selected. The secretion inhibitory effect test and the histamine secretion inhibitory effect test confirmed that the best effect was obtained when a mixture of panthenol, an essential fatty acid ester complex, and dipotassium glycyrizate was used.

Specifically, skin irritation complexes according to the present invention include panthenol, essential fatty acid ester complexes, and dipotassium glycyrizate.

Panthenol is another name for pantothenic acid (provitamin B5), and the provitamin of pantothenic acid (vitamin B) is converted to vitamins in the body. It acts as a humectant, emollient, moisturizer, improves skin's moisturizing function, stimulates skin regeneration, has excellent skin penetration, normalizes keratinous shape of skin, heals wounds, protects, supplies moisture, anti-inflammatory effect, prevents inflammation and It is often used to prevent itching.

The essential fatty acid ester complex is a mixture of PEG-4 proline linolenate: PEG-4 proline linoleate in a weight ratio of 50-70%: 30-50%. Use it. The essential fatty acid ester complex inhibits ulcer production by physical stimulation and treats skin inflammation.

Di-potassium glycinate series J. teuneun known as anti-inflammatory and soothing agents, in addition to the mast cell histamine release inhibition (in in vitro or peritoneal cell PGE2 secretion inhibition ( in in vitro ) effects are also known.

Each composition of the skin irritation complex according to the present invention can evaluate the cytotoxicity through experiments at various concentrations of Experimental Example 1, and ensure the optimum effect by confirming the inhibitory effect of IL-8, PGE2 and histamine secretion respectively The content was limited so that. Preferably the skin irritation complex is blended to comprise 20-50% by weight of panthenol, 20-50% by weight of essential fatty acid ester complex, and 10-30% by weight of dipotassium glycyrizate to satisfy 100% by weight. .

In particular, as a result of clinical evaluation of dipotassium glycyrizate, it was confirmed that at a certain concentration or less, the ability to inhibit erythema formation is more than one condition, that is, it acts as a factor of stimulation at high content. Therefore, the skin stimulation alleviation complex is preferably limited to less than half of other constituents in the total content ratio.

The skin irritation complex is formulated in a variety of forms can be applied in a variety of formulations, preferably when formulated in the form of a multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle proposed in the present invention the skin irritation complex complex more effectively stimulates the skin Not only can it be delivered without, but it can be stored and used in a stabilized form for a long time. In addition, it is possible to increase the amount of skin absorption by inclusion of more skin irritation complex.

The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle includes an aqueous phase and an oil phase portion, and for its stability, in particular, the present invention uses an amphipathic lipid complex in which a ratio of glycosyl cerebroside, phospholipid, and cholesterol is mixed.

Lecithin, widely used as a phospholipid, is an amphoteric ionic emulsifier and consists of three kinds of phospholipids: phosphatidylcholine (PC; Phosphatidylethanolamine (PE; Phosphatidylethanolamine) and phosphatidyl inositol (PI; Phosphotidylinositol), a combination of phospholipids. In contrast, the amphipathic lipid complex used in the present invention is composed of glycosyl cerebromide, phospholipid, and cholesterol, and glycosyl cerebromide is generally a form in which glucose or galactose is bound by glycosidic bond to ceramide. Unlike common neutral ceramides, which are sparingly soluble, are water-soluble lipids soluble in water phases. Thus, amphiphilic lipid complexes can enhance emulsification stabilization by tightening the multilayer vesicle membrane with glycosyl cerebromide and cholesterol in the self-associative structure of the phospholipid, and stably enclose the skin irritation-releasing complex inside.

Preferably, the amphipathic lipid complex is used in a mixture of 65 to 98.9% by weight of glycosyl cerebromide, 0.1 to 30% by weight of phospholipid, and 1.0 to 10.0% by weight of cholesterol so that the total content is 100% by weight. In the form of a lipid capsule having a number average size of 1 to 5 µm. The use of these amphipathic lipid complexes can increase dispersion stability over the long term when preparing emulsions, and the structural properties of the multilayer vesicles help to more easily absorb and penetrate the skin barrier, thereby doubling the intended cosmetic function. Giving functions.

In the amphiphilic lipid complex, glycosyl cerebroside is contained in excess of other phospholipids or cholesterol, and when used below the above range, lipid capsule particle size is increased and problems such as agglomeration of particles with each other during long-term storage occur. Stability is lowered. On the contrary, if the amount is used in excess of the above range, the content of the relatively different composition is reduced, which also increases the size of the multilayer vesicle, and therefore, it is appropriately used in the content range.

These glycosyl cerebrosides, phospholipids, and cholesterol can be used by purchasing and mixing commercially available products or commercially available products made of these.

The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle comprising the amphipathic lipid complex as described above consists of an aqueous phase comprising polyol and water and an oil phase comprising phospholipids, oils, higher fatty acids, and lactic acid.

Preferably, the multilayer liquid crystal-containing vesicle according to the present invention is such that the sum of the total compositions satisfies 100% by weight,

a) i) skin irritation relief complex 1.0-10.0 wt%,

Ii) 1.0 to 20.0% by weight of an amphipathic lipid complex,

(Iii) 1.0 to 40.0 weight percent of a polyol, and

Iii) an aqueous phase comprising water as remainder;

b) i) 0.1-10.0 wt% of phospholipids,

Ii) 0.1 to 30.0% by weight of oil,

V) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of higher fatty acids, and

Iii) an oil phase comprising from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of lactic acid.

The composition of the skin irritant complex is as described above, and is used in an amount of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 8.0% by weight, in the entire multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content is less than the above range, it is difficult to expect a skin irritation-reducing effect, on the contrary, if the content exceeds the above range, inclusions in the liquid crystal are not easily achieved.

The amphipathic lipid complex is used in an amount of 1.0 to 20.0 wt%, preferably 2.0 to 10.0 wt%, in the whole multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content of the amphiphilic lipid complex is less than the above range, the skin irritation-reducing complex may not be sufficiently encapsulated, resulting in poor formulation stability, and if the content exceeds the above range, a high-hardness cream formulation may be produced by excessive use of the lipid component. It is not easy and it is difficult to take advantage of the appearance and usability of the present invention.

The polyol may be one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, methyl propanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and combinations thereof, and preferably glycerin is used. do.

The polyol content is used in an amount of 1.0 to 40.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 20.0% by weight in the whole multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content is less than the above range, a sufficient moisturizing effect cannot be imparted. On the contrary, if the content exceeds the above range, the content of the other composition is relatively reduced, so that the effect thereof cannot be secured.

The water is distilled water, preferably deionized distilled water is used.

Phospholipids also include naturally occurring saturated lecithins extracted from soybean or egg yolk; Unsaturated choline compounds including phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidyl isocitol, and phosphatidic acid; Serine; Ethanolamine compounds; Derivatives including their hydrogenated forms; And a combination thereof may be used, and lecithin is preferably used.

The content of phospholipid is used in an amount of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 5.0% by weight in the whole multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content is less than the above range, the stability at room temperature and high temperature cannot be sufficiently secured. On the contrary, if the content exceeds the above range, it is not easy to prepare the emulsion by forming high hardness, so that it is suitably used within the above range.

Preferably, the oil may be a mixture of ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, and caprylic / capric triglycerides. In particular, the ceramide is a kind of sphingolipid, the amide derivative of sphingosine has high permeability to the skin, and cholesterol also has the effect of improving skin permeability and relieving irritation.

The oil is used in an amount of 0.1 to 30.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 20.0% by weight in the whole multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content is less than the above range, the oil content is so small that the dispersion stability is lowered. On the contrary, if the content exceeds the above range, it is difficult to effectively encapsulate the lipid components, so that the long-term stability of the formulation is sharply deteriorated. do.

The higher fatty acid may be one selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably stearic acid.

The higher fatty acid is used in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight in the whole multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content is less than the above range, it is difficult to formulate. On the contrary, if the content exceeds the above range, the content of other composition decreases, so that its effect cannot be secured. Therefore, it is appropriately used within the above range.

The lactic acid component in the multilayer liquid crystal is a natural moisturizng factor (NMF) of the skin, which may increase the solubility of ceramide and phytosphingosine to further increase the stability of the composition. That is, the ceramide and phytosphingosine have low solubility due to hydrophobicity and are easy to crystallize, and thus, the safety of the product is lowered and the use amount thereof is limited. The use of lactic acid as in the present invention solves this problem.

The lactic acid is used in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight in the whole multilayer liquid crystal vesicle. If the content is less than the above range, the product stability is lowered. On the contrary, if the content exceeds the above range, the content of the other composition is relatively reduced, so that its effect cannot be obtained. Therefore, it is appropriately used within the above range.

In addition, if necessary, it may further include a solvent or additive as known in the art. The solvent is used to dissolve the oil-soluble component, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixed solvents thereof may be used. In addition, the additives may be preservatives, pH adjusters, surfactants, antioxidants, sunscreens, pigments, dyes, fragrances and the like, and may be appropriately selected by those skilled in the art.

The production method of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and an emulsification method that is commonly used may be used.

Preferably, the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles

(S1) dissolving skin irritation complex, polyol, and amphipathic lipid complex in water to prepare a water phase of the multilayer liquid crystal,

(S2) dissolving phospholipid, stearic acid, lactic acid, ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine in caprylic / capric triglyceride to prepare an oil phase part of a multilayer liquid crystal,

(S3) The oil phase part of the said multilayer liquid crystal is added to the water phase part manufactured by said (S1), and is manufactured.

The mixing process of S1), S2), and S3) is performed in a vacuum emulsification tank capable of temperature control and stirring by a conventional method, and stirring and heating are performed as necessary.

For example, the water phase is heated to 50 to 80 캜, preferably 65 to 75 캜, and the oil phase is heated to 50 to 80 캜, preferably 65 to 75 캜 to sufficiently dissolve other components in the oil .

The stirring is carried out in a vacuum emulsification tank at a speed of 2000 to 4000 rpm, preferably 3000 rpm for 3 to 10 minutes using a homomixer.

The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle produced by the above steps has a structure in which the liquid crystal is formed of at least two, preferably 3 to 20, more preferably 5 to 20, most preferably 10 to 20 layers It is preferable to have.

Further, such multilayer liquid crystal vesicles have an average diameter of 1 to 10 mu m, preferably 2 to 5 mu m. If the size is less than the above range, the number of double layers of the liquid crystal on the multilayered layer is small, and the collection rate of the skin irritation complex is very low. On the contrary, if the size exceeds the above range, problems of improvement of skin penetration and formulation stability are caused.

As described above, the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles have an effect of relieving skin irritation and restoring the skin barrier, such as oil-in-water-oil-in-oil emulsion compositions composed of various water phases and oil phases. oils, water-in-oil, or water-in-oil-in water emulsions, aqueous formulations or anhydrous formulations and can be applied to various cosmetic compositions.

At this time, the water phase part comprises a moisturizer, a water-soluble physiologically active ingredient and water, and the oil phase part comprises an oil, an emulsifier, and an oil-soluble physiologically active ingredient.

Their composition may vary depending on the formulation, preferably to satisfy 100% by weight of the total cosmetic composition,

a) 0.1-5.0 wt% of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles;

b) 0-10.0% by weight of i) a water-soluble bioactive component,

Ii) 0.5 to 15.0 wt% of a humectant, and

Iii) an aqueous phase comprising the remainder of water;

c) i) 0 to 10.0% by weight of oil soluble active ingredient

Ii) 0.5 to 20.0% by weight of oil, and

V) consisting of an oil phase portion containing from 2.0 to 10.0% by weight of an emulsifier.

The water-soluble and oil-soluble physiologically active ingredients are not particularly limited in the present invention, and all physiologically active ingredients used in cosmetic compositions such as whitening agents, collagen synthesis promoters, wrinkle removers, skin barrier enhancers, aging inhibitors, and moisturizing agents are known. Can be. In one example, as the physiologically active component having a whitening effect, oil soluble components including oil soluble licorice, ethyl ascorbyl ether, α-bisabolol, and the like are possible. In addition, active ingredients having an anti-wrinkle effect may be oil-soluble ingredients such as retinol and derivatives thereof (eg, retinyl palmitate), adenosine and the like. Such water-soluble and oil-soluble physiologically active ingredients are preferably used in the range of 0.001 to 10.0% by weight .

Moisturizing agents which can be used include polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, erythritol, xylitol, maltitol glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, and isoprene glycol; Ingredients such as amino acids, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, xyloglucan, quince seed, carrageenan, pectin, met, cranlan, galactan, delmantan sulfate, glycoken, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoy Tin Sulfate, Keratosulfate, Chondroitin, Mucoitin Sulfate, Keratosulfate, Locust Bean Gum, Succinoglucan, Caronym Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Heparan Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen, Mucopolysaccharide, Chondroitin Water-soluble high molecular materials which are sulfuric acid; Silicones which are dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylsiloxane; Culture supernatant of lactic acid bacteria and bifidobacteria; And a combination of these.

The water is distilled water, preferably deionized distilled water is used.

The oil may be an oil commonly used in the art to sufficiently dissolve the physiologically active ingredient and the emulsifier. Typically, hydrocarbon-based oils such as polydecene and paraffin oil; Ester synthetic oils; Silicone oil; Animal oil; Vegetable oils such as mango butter, shea butter, copoa seed seed butter and macadamia seed oil; Ethoxylated alkyl ester oils; cholesterol; Cholesteryl sulfate; Phytosphingosine; Sphingoidoid lipids; One selected from the group consisting of C10 to C40 fatty alcohols such as batyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, ceramide and mixtures thereof can be used. .

Emulsifiers include sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, glycerol monooleate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monostearate, polyoxy Ethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol beeswax derivative, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol beeswax derivative, PEG 100 stearate / glyceryl stearate, PEG 200 dilaurate, sorbitan monopalmitate, polyoxy Ethylene (3.5) nonyl phenol, PEG200 monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, PEG 400 dioleate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitol lanolin derivatives, polyoxyethylene (12) Uryl ether, PEG 1500 dioleate, polyoxyethyl Include laurate is possible.

In addition, hydrocarbons in addition to oils; And one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In addition, if necessary, it may further include a solvent or additive as known in the art. The solvent is used to dissolve the oil-soluble component, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixed solvents thereof may be used. In addition, the additives may be preservatives, pH adjusters, surfactants, antioxidants, sunscreens, pigments, dyes, flavorings, stabilizers, thickeners and the like, and may be appropriately selected by those skilled in the art.

The cosmetic composition prepared through these steps can be used as a cosmetic product having various formulations.

When used as a cosmetic composition, the content of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles is used in an amount of 0.001 to 99.9% by weight, based on the total weight of the total cosmetic composition, and the content is appropriately adjusted according to the formulation of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in any formulation as is known and may be formulated as a solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, and the like.

For example, it may be used as a basic cosmetic composition selected from softening cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, lotions, creams, packs, gels, patches, or sprays (mist), color cosmetic compositions selected from lipsticks, makeup bases, or foundations.

In addition, the compositions of each formulation may contain various bases and additives necessary and appropriate for the formulation of the formulation, and nonionic surfactants, silicone polymers, extender pigments, fragrances, preservatives, Fungicides, oxidation stabilizers, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, free radical destroyers, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, α-hydroxy acids, antifoams, humectants, It is prepared by including known compounds such as vitamins, insect repellents, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, anti-inflammatory agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, basicizing or acidifying agents, or coloring agents.

[Example]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples. However, the embodiments according to the present invention can be modified into various other forms, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the embodiments described below. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more fully describe the present invention to those skilled in the art.

< Experimental Example  1>

(1) Cytotoxicity Assessment

Dipotassium glycyrizeate, panthenol, essential fatty acid ester complex, gut extract, fruit extract and madecassoside, which are used as anti-irritants, were selected. Toxicity was evaluated. At this time, the essential fatty acid ester complex was used as: PEG-4 proline linolenate: PEG-4 proline linoleate = 50%: 50%. At this time, the test concentration was performed to 0.0005 to 0.05%, and the obtained results are shown in Table 1 below.

Test substance Test concentration (%) Relative Cell level (%) Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.0005 97.6 0.001 107.2 0.01 96.8 0.05 85.6 Panthenol
0.0005 98.2 0.001 100.4 0.01 103.5 0.05 74 Essential Fatty Acid Ester Complex 0.0005 97.5 0.001 65.6 0.01 45.2 0.05 58.6 Marchia extract 0.0005 95.9 0.001 92.6 0.05 96.5 0.01 94.4 Fruit Extract
0.0005 94.7 0.001 99.8 0.01 97 0.05 75.1 Madecasso Side 0.0005 95.3 0.001 97.3 0.01 103.4 0.05 80.7 Untreated group - 100

From the data in Table 1, the essential fatty acid ester complex was tested at 0.0005% and the remaining five raw materials at 0.01%.

(2) IL -8, PGE2 , And histamine secretion inhibitory effect

IL-8 secretion inhibitory effect test was performed using the composition of Table 1, and the results obtained are shown in Table 2.

The inhibitory effect of IL-8 secretion was cultured by applying a test substance to THP-1 cells, and then cultured to obtain a culture solution and quantitated the amount of IL-8 by ELISA kit.

Prastaglandin E2 (PGE2) secretion inhibitory effect was measured by applying a test substance to THP-1 cells, and then culture was obtained by quantifying the amount of PGE2 by ELISA kit.

The inhibitory effect of histamine secretion was measured by applying a test substance to RBL-2H3 cells, and then obtaining a culture solution to quantify histamine content using an ELISA kit.

IL-8 secretion inhibition rate Furtherance Relative cell level (%) IL-8 secretion inhibition rate (%) Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 100.1 - Panthenol 101.2 9.6 Essential Fatty Acid Ester Complex 96.8 87.9 Marchia extract 88.7 2.7 Ginseng extract 99.2 9.2 Madecasso Side 110.7 9.3 Untreated group 100.0 - Lipopolysaccharide (LPS) 95.3 -

PGE2 secretion inhibition rate Furtherance Relative cell level (%) PGE2 secretion inhibition rate (%) Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 89.5 19.9 Panthenol 90.5 9.1 Essential Fatty Acid Ester Complex 85.9 34.5 Marchia extract 91.3 12.2 Ginseng extract 92.7 - Madecasso Side 90.3 - Untreated group 100.0 - Lipopolysaccharide (LPS) 96.7 -

Histamine release rate Furtherance Relative cell level (%) Histamine secretion inhibition rate (%) Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 91.0 100.0 Panthenol 95.5 44.0 Essential Fatty Acid Ester Complex 88.4 45.3 Marchia extract 98.2 23.4 Ginseng extract 99.4 19.2 Madecasso Side 95.3 - Untreated group 100.0 - COMPOUND 48/80 * 95.1 -

* Condensation products of N-methyl-p-methoxyphenethylamine and formaldehyde

Referring to Tables 2 to 4, LPS-induced (Lipopolysaccharide) IL-8 secretion inhibitory effect test results, the essential fatty acid ester complex was the most excellent effect, PGE2 secretion inhibitory effect test results dipotassium glycyrizate panthenol, Machihyeon The extract and essential fatty acid ester complexes were excellent, and the results of histamine secretion inhibition test showed that the results of dipotassium glycyrizate, panthenol, gut extract and essential fatty acid ester complex were excellent.

In sum, the effects of the essential fatty acid ester complex, dipotassium glycyrizate, and panthenol were the most excellent, and this was introduced into a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle to confirm the potential as a stimulation reducing agent.

< Experimental Example  2> Multilayer  Liquid crystal Vesicle  Produce

A vesicle was prepared according to the method given below with the composition of Table 5 below.

First, a multi-layer oil phase was prepared by mixing ceramide, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, stearic acid and caprylic / capric triglyceride in the reactor.

Next, the purified water was warmed to 70 ℃ and added to the skin irritation complex with glycerin to prepare an aqueous phase. At this time, the skin irritation relief complex was used in a weight ratio of panthenol: essential fatty acid ester complex: dipotassium glycyrizate = 40%: 40%: 20%.

Subsequently, the oil phase part prepared above was added to the water phase part and stirred at 3000 rpm for 5 minutes using a homomixer, and then it was repeated three times at 1300 bar using a high pressure type emulsifier to prepare a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle.

Composition (% by weight) Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Water top
Amphiphilic Lipid Complex 5.0 - - 5.0 Stimulus relaxation complex 5.0 5.0 5.0 - glycerin 30 30 30 30 Floating Ceramide - - 5 - Hydrogenated lecithin 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 cholesterol 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Phytosphingosine 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10 10 10 10 Stearic acid 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 antiseptic 1,2-hexanediol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Metal Ion Blocker Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Purified water Balance Balance Balance Balance

< Experimental Example  3> particle observation

(One) Cold field emission  Scanning Microscope

In order to confirm the particles of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles prepared in Example 1, measurements were performed using a cold field emission scanning microscope (Cryo-FE-SEM, HITACHI S-4700), and the results are shown in FIG. 1. .

Referring to FIG. 1, it can be seen that the diameter of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle is measured to be 1 to 2 μm and has lipid capsule particles of the composition of the multilayer liquid crystal.

(2) polarized light observation

In order to confirm the stability of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles prepared in Example 1, the multilayer liquid crystal vesicles were stored in an opaque glass container in a thermostat kept at 45 ° C. for 4 weeks, and then stored in a polarizing microscope. Observed and shown in FIG.

(A) of FIG. 2 is a polarization microscope image of a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle after (4) weeks after manufacture. 2, it was confirmed that the liquid crystal is maintained well even at high temperature conditions after 4 weeks, it was confirmed that the liquid crystal is formed stably.

< Experimental Example  4> lotion manufacturer

Using a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle prepared in Example 1, to prepare a lotion composition comprising a composition of Table 6. At this time, lotion preparation was used by a conventional method.

First, in the composition of Table 6, the oil phase part and the preservative were mixed and completely dissolved at 80 ° C. to prepare the oil phase part.

The purified water was then warmed to 80 ° C. and glycerin and the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of Example 1 were added thereto to prepare an aqueous phase.

The oil phase part was added to the water phase part, and the mixture was emulsified with a homo mixer for 2500 rpm for 3 minutes to prepare a lotion composition.

Composition (% by weight) Comparative Formulation Example 1 Formulation Example 1 Formulation Example 2 additive The vesicle of Example 1 - 5.0 10 Stimulus relaxation complex - - - Water top glycerin 6.0 6.0 6.0 Floating
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 1.0 1.0 1.0 Glyceryl stearate, phage-100 stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glyceryl stearate SE 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Meadowfoam Seed Oil 2.0 2.0 2.0 Hydrogenated polydecene 3.0 3.0 3.0 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate Dicaprate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Caprylic Capric Triglyceride 3.5 3.5 3.5 Thickener Carbomer 0.13 0.13 0.13 corrector Triethanolamine Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount antiseptic Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Metal Ion Blocker Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Purified water Balance Balance Balance

< Experimental Example  5> stability test

The stability test of the vesicle and lotion composition obtained above was performed as follows.

The vesicles of Example 1, Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and the lotion compositions of Comparative Formulations 1, 1 and 2 were stored in an opaque glass container in a thermostat kept at 45 ° C. for 12 weeks, In addition, after storing for 12 weeks in an opaque glass container in a completely shaded refrigerator kept at 4 ℃ constant, the degree of separation and discoloration, gelation was measured and compared, and the results obtained are shown in Table 7 below.

The product separation and discoloration were evaluated by classifying into the following six grades:

0: no change

1: very little separation (discoloration, gelation)

2: a little separation (discoloration, gelation)

3: Slightly separated (discoloration, gelation)

4: severely separated (discolored, gelled)

5: Extremely severe separation (discoloration, gelation).

Temperature Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Formulation Example 1 Formulation Example 1 Formulation Example 2 45 ° C 0 3.1 2.6 0 0 0 4 ℃ 0 0 0 0 0 0

Referring to Table 7, the vesicle of Example 1 using the amphiphilic lipid complex according to the present invention was stable without discoloration or separation at 45 ℃, the composition of Formulation Examples 1 and 2 comprising the same also the same result Seemed.

However, the vesicles of Comparative Example 1, which did not use amphiphilic lipid complexes, and the vesicles of Comparative Example 2, which used ceramide instead of amphiphilic lipid complexes, were slightly unstable, discolored, and gelled at 45 ° C. It can be seen that.

< Experimental Example  6> stimulation Abatement  Efficacy evaluation

In order to evaluate the stimulation reduction effect of the vesicle and lotion composition obtained as described above was performed as follows.

The test composition was used alone with the vesicles of Example 1, Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and the lotion compositions of Comparative Formulation Example 1, Formulation Example 1, and Formulation Example 2, alone as a stimulant alleviator used in Experimental Example 1. A total of five subjects were recruited from the trial and five completed the clinical trial. The age was 36.6 years and the age distribution was 35 to 39 years.

Each test composition was treated three times at 1 hour intervals with the sample at the forearm or back area of the subject, and the skin irritation appeared by attaching a patch applied with 20% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) for 3 hours. It was. The patch was removed and the resulting skin irritation was visually read on the day and after 24 and 48 hours.

<Reading Criteria and Score> Reaction aspect sign division Score Unresponsive - voice 0 Faint erythema ± Uijinseong 0.5 Pronounced erythema + positivity One edema ++ Neutrality 2 Vesicles, necrosis +++ Kang Yangsung 4

<Stimulation rate>

sample Score Stimulation rate (%) Erythema production inhibition rate (%) Control (SDS) 18.0 30.0 - The vesicle of Example 1 10.5 17.5 41.6 Vesicle of Comparative Example 3 11.5 19.2 36.0 Essential Fatty Acid Ester Complex Sole 14.5 24.2 19.3 Dipotassium Glycirizate Only 17.5 29.2 0.0 Panthenol alone 15.5 25.8 14.0 Stimulus relaxation complex 14.0 23.3 22.3 Comparative Formulation Example 1 15.0 25.0 16.7 Formulation Example 1 13.0 21.7 27.6 Formulation Example 2 12.0 20.0 33.3

Referring to Table 9 above, stimulation-reducing efficacy was shown in vesicles and compositions with stimulation-reducing agents.

Dipotassium glycyrizeate was excellent at inhibiting erythema production below a certain concentration, but appeared to be a stimulus factor above, but essential fatty acid ester complex and panthenol showed similar results. In addition, the skin irritation reduction composites using a mixture of them than the case of using each alone showed a greater effect of reducing the stimulation. These results suggest that anti-irritant combinations with different stimulation-reducing mechanisms are preferred rather than individual raw materials, and it can be seen that stimulation-induced effects can be further improved through formulations having skin barrier improvement and anti-inflammatory effects.

And in the case of the vesicle of Example 1 showed a high irritation reduction effect with Formulation Examples 1 and 2.

< Experimental Example  7> Evaluation of Barrier Improvement Effectiveness

In order to evaluate the stimulation reduction effect of the vesicle and lotion composition obtained as described above was performed as follows.

The test composition used the vesicle of Example 1 and the lotion composition of Formulation Example 1. A total of 5 subjects were recruited from the trial and 5 completed the clinical trial. The age distribution was 36 to 41 years old (mean 38.0 ± 2.4 years) with healthy skin.

Subjects were selected for the purpose of this test, and each treatment material and untreated control site were set at the forearm area, and 2 µl / cm 2 was applied twice a day. Trans-epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) was measured at each time point after tape stripping, 1, 3 and 7 days before application of the test material. The results obtained are shown in Table 10 and FIG. 3. 3 is a graph showing the change of the percutaneous moisture loss in the lotion composition of Formulation Example 1, the treatment group treated with the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of Example 1, and the untreated group.

Result of transdermal moisture loss (TEWL) evaluation after sample treatment (test number = 5) sample term Inspection Average ¹ Standard Deviation
(SD) Standard error
(SEM) No treatment
Barrier Recovery Rate (%) Formulation Example 1 Before processing 5 6.50 1.75 1.01 - tape
After stripping 5 105.13 8.87 5.12 - Day 1 elapsed (D1) 5 81.07 4.70 2.72 6.26 ▲ Three days pass (D3) 5 32.47 12.88 7.43 4.82 ▲ Day 7 pass (D7) 5 21.73 8.56 4.94 6.65 ▲ Example 1 Before processing 5 6.67 2.17 1.25 - tape
After stripping 5 104.63 10.44 6.03 - Day 1 elapsed (D1) 5 79.13 3.56 2.06 34.23 ▲ Three days pass (D3) 5 28.80 8.49 4.90 9.66 ▲ Day 7 pass (D7) 5 15.90 5.71 3.30 10.22 ▲ No treatment Before processing 5 6.70 1.93 1.12 - tape
After stripping 5 102.30 3.93 2.27 - Day 1 elapsed (D1) 5 66.83 12.01 6.93 - Three days pass (D3) 5 24.33 5.65 3.26 - Day 7 pass (D7) 5 12.27 4.28 2.47 -

¹ Average decrease in transdermal moisture loss (TEWL)

Delta value † = measure after erythema induction-measure before erythema induction

*

Referring to Table 10 and Figure 3, Formulation Example 1 was observed about 7% higher barrier recovery rate compared to the untreated group at 7 days after application, Example 1 was about 10% higher than the untreated group The barrier recovery rate was shown. Therefore, it was confirmed that the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle and the composition including the same according to the present invention help to restore the skin barrier.

The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle according to the present invention can be applied to various cosmetics for reducing skin irritation and restoring skin barrier.

Claims (15)

A skin irritation relief complex comprising panthenol, an essential fatty acid ester complex and dipotassium glycyrizeate, and a multilayer liquid crystal phase comprising an amphipathic lipid complex, polyol and water,
A multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier repair comprising a multilayer liquid crystal oil phase comprising phospholipids, oils, higher fatty acids, and lactic acid. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin irritation complex is 20 to 50% by weight of panthenol, 20 to 50% by weight of essential fatty acid ester complex, and 10 to 30% by weight of dipotassium glycyrizeate to satisfy the total 100% by weight. Multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery, comprising. According to claim 2, wherein the essential fatty acid ester complex is PEG-4 proline linolenate (PEG-4 proline linolenate): PEG-4 Proline linoleate (PEG-4 Proline linoleate) 50 to 70%: 30 to 30 A multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery characterized in that it is mixed in a weight ratio of 50%. The method of claim 1, wherein the amphiphilic lipid complex comprises 65 to 98.9% by weight glycosyl cerebromide, 0.1 to 30% by weight phospholipid, and 1.0 to 10.0% by weight to satisfy 100% by weight of the total Multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery, characterized in that. The method of claim 1, wherein the total composition of the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle satisfies 100% by weight,
a) i) skin irritation relief complex 1.0-10.0 wt%,
Ii) 1.0 to 20.0% by weight of an amphipathic lipid complex,
(Iii) 1.0 to 40.0 weight percent of a polyol, and
Iii) an aqueous phase comprising water as remainder;
b) i) 0.1-10.0 wt% of phospholipids,
Ii) 0.1 to 30.0% by weight of oil,
V) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of higher fatty acids, and
V) a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery comprising an oil phase comprising 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of lactic acid. The polyol of claim 1, wherein the polyol includes one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof and combinations thereof. Multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery, characterized in that. The method of claim 1, wherein the phospholipids are naturally derived saturated lecithin extracted from soybean or egg yolk; Unsaturated choline compounds including phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidyl isocitol, and phosphatidic acid; Serine; Ethanolamine compounds; Derivatives including their hydrogenated forms; And a combination selected from the group consisting of a multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery. The method of claim 1, wherein the oil comprises ceramide, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and combinations thereof. Multilayer liquid crystal vesicles. The method of claim 1, wherein the higher fatty acid includes one or more selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof. Multi-layer liquid crystal vesicle for skin barrier repair. The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of claim 1, wherein the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle comprises at least two liquid crystal layers. 2. The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of claim 1, wherein the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle comprises 3 to 20 liquid crystal layers. The multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of claim 1, wherein the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle has an average diameter of 1 to 5 μm. (S1) dissolving skin irritation complex, polyol, and amphipathic lipid complex in water to prepare a water phase of the multilayer liquid crystal,
(S2) mixing the phospholipid, oil, higher fatty acid and lactic acid to prepare an oil phase part of the multilayer liquid crystal,
(S3) A method for producing a multilayer liquid crystal vesicle for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery by adding an oil phase portion of the multilayer liquid crystal to a water phase portion prepared in the above (S1) to produce a multilayer liquid crystal. A cosmetic composition for alleviating skin irritation and restoring a skin barrier comprising the multilayer liquid crystal vesicle of claim 1. 15. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein the cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition selected from soft cosmetics, nutrient cosmetics, lotions, creams, packs, gels, patches or sprays (mist), lipsticks, makeup bases, or foundations. Cosmetic composition for skin irritation relief and skin barrier recovery, characterized in that.

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