DE102004008440A1 - Cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for increasing the endogenous lipid content of the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of at least one active substance selected from the water-soluble groups DOLLAR A a.) Allantoin, DOLLAR A b.) Salts and / or esters of gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid, DOLLAR A c.) Precursors of creatine, creatine and creatinine and their Derivatives, DOLLAR A d.) Glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and / or esters, DOLLAR A e.) D-panthenol DOLLAR A and / or at least one active substance selected from the oil-soluble groups DOLLAR A f.) Vitamin E acetate DOLLAR A g.) Cholesterol DOLLAR A h.) Derivatives of glycyrrhetinic acid, as far as they are soluble in the oils and fats commonly used in cosmetics, DOLLAR A i.) vegetable oils and fats, DOLLAR A j.) unsaponifiable fractions of vegetable fats, DOLLAR A is selected either alone or in combination with one or more active compounds from groups a) to j) for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for stimulating the endogenous synthesis of barrier substances, in particular Increasing the endogenous lipid content of the skin.

Description

The The invention relates to the use of at least one water and / or oil soluble Active ingredient - alone or in combination with one or more other active ingredients - for production a cosmetic and / or dermatological stimulant the endogenous synthesis of barrier substances or for stimulation the endogenous lipid synthesis.

The skin, with a surface area of about 1.5 to 2.0 m ^{2, is} the largest organ in the human body that performs vital functions for the body. For this purpose, the skin contains blood and lymph vessels, through the walls of the exchange of lymph fluid, gases, nutrients and waste can take place, for example, to ensure nutrition and metabolism. Further functions of the skin are the regulation of the body temperature, the protection of the body against dehydration and against external mechanical, chemical and bacterial influences. Thus, the secretions of sebaceous glands keep the skin supple and help to regulate the hydration of the skin. In addition, the skin mediates eg via free nerve endings the organism tactile, heat and cold and pain stimuli and thus has the function of a sensory organ.

The skin can be subdivided into three clearly distinguishable layers, namely
Epidermis
Dermis (corium, dermis)
Subcutis (subcutis).

The Epidermis is a vascular, in the outermost layer consisting of keratinised squamous epithelium the body skin, the inside out from the layers stratum basale (basal cell layer), stratum spinosum (Spiny cell layer), stratum granulosum (body cell layer), stratum lucidum (gloss layer) and stratum corneum (horny layer) constructed is. As the outermost layer the epidermis, the horny layer has an outer loose, always physiological abschilfernde location horny dead cells on (Stratum disjunctum) and an underlying cell layer (stratum compactum), their function is the aggravation or the prevention of penetration of substances from the outside into the skin. Stratum basale and stratum spinosum will also be as the germ layer (stratum germinativum), since here by Cell division predominantly formed in the stratum basal continually new cells which then go back to the horny layer, thereby decomposing die off and finally repelled or on the epidermis surface be shaken off so that one permanent Renewal of the entire epidermis takes place.

main function the epidermis, in particular of stratum corneum is thus the training a barrier that dehydrates the skin and the entire organism prevented and beyond also hinders the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside.

The Cornea (stratum corneum) consists of corneocytes, which by means of Corneodesmosoemen linked are. In the intervals There are lipids that hold the corneocytes together like a kind of mortar. This lipid mortar consists of a mixture of fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol and its derivatives. This skin model recognized in the professional world (Bricks and mortar model) is from P.M. Elias "Structure and Function of the Corneum Permeability Barrier ", in Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) Service. According to Rawlings A.V., International Journal of Cosmetic Science 25: 63-95, In 2003, the stratum corneum lipids are predominant Ceramides (47% by weight), cholesterol (24% by weight), free fatty acids (11% by weight) and cholesterol ester (18% by weight) together. Here are 8 different Ceramide subclasses can be distinguished.

Especially the ceramides seem for the barrier function of the skin to be evident, as in the literature Ceramide 1 and 3 repeatedly as the main barrier lipids to be discribed.

By external influences, such as e.g. Skin cleansing or contact with degreasing substances will be the Integrity of the lipid mortar impaired causing a barrier failure is caused. However, the skin is able to get through this barrier disorder the new synthesis of lipids or by release of lipids / Lipidprecursor to balance in the intercellular space.

With regard to this regeneration of the skin barrier, it should be mentioned that the precursors of the lipid components needed for the lipid mortar are formed in the living layers of the epidermis or that in particular the lamellar bodies are filled with these precursors. Between stratum granulosum and stratum corneum, these precursors are then released and rebuilt into barrier lipids, the lowest layers of the cornea (stratum compactum) being packed most densely and therefore being the cause of the barrier effect.

As has also been shown in numerous publications, is after an acute barrier disorder stimulated the synthesis of barrier lipids (Elias, P.M. and K.R. Fine gold (2001). "Coordinate Regulation of Epidermal Differentiation and Barrier Homeostasis. "Skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology 14: 28-34). In particular, after a barrier damage first Lipids of existing lamellar bodies (Odland Bodies or also Lamellar granular). In the following 0.5 to 4 hours then become new lamellar bodies formed, which accelerate their content. During this period the epidermal lipid synthesis also increases (Feingold, K.R. (1997). Permeability Barrier Homeostasis: Its Biochemical Basis and Regulation. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 112: 49-59). As relevant signals are in the literature, especially the calcium and Potassium homeostasis as well as the formation of epidermal cytokines such as interleukin 1-α (Elias, P.M. and K.R. Feingold (2001). "Coordinate Regulation of Epidermal Differentiation and Barrier Homeostasis. "Skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology 14: 28-34). DNA microarrays of skin models prove that too Here a multi-phased answer takes place. After a short-term damage be with acetone first Genes for Upregulated signal transduction, stress, proliferation and inflammation. Later be enzymes for lipid synthesis are more pronounced, more expressed (Koria, P., Brazeau D., et al. (2003). "Gene expression profile of tissue engineered skin subject to acute barrier disruption. "Journal of Investigative Dermatology 121: 368-382).

A other barrier disorder lies in the case of skin diseases and in the case of aging skin in front. Here is - simplified expressed - the composition of the lipid mortar changed and it comes to an impairment the skin barrier. In addition, in the case of aging skin or repeated damage healthy skin slows the recovery of the barrier function.

Around the barrier damages was tried to administer individual lipid components from the outside. The WO 99/47114, for example, reports on experiments in which natural or synthetic ceramides have been applied to the skin. Even though such attempts showed a certain effectiveness of treatment, However, this effectiveness was only of short duration, because - in accordance with various references to it - just one of the skin ingredients identical composition the desired effect of a barrier repair can cause. In addition, it is questionable how effective such preparations are because these components also penetrate deep into the stratum corneum have to. Furthermore, it is disadvantageous that in particular the skin-identical ceramides are very expensive raw materials.

The DE 102 04 526 describes cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, in particular leave-on products, which are characterized by a content of Eucalyptusöl, one or more electrolytes and a polyol or urea, inter alia, as a means for stimulating the endogenous Ceramidstoffwechsels, in particular for stimulating the biosynthesis of the transport , the delivery and availability of ceramides to achieve an improved endogenous ceramide supply to the corneal skin layers should be used.

The WO 02/092044 relates generally to the use of electrolytes, in particular in the form of inorganic salts and of salts of naturally in the skin occurring acids for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment and prevention dry skin and to strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

Niacin or nicotinic acid and nicotinamide have been reported in the literature to stimulate endogenous lipid synthesis (Rawlings AV, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 25: 63-95, 2003, Markowetz A, SÖFW Journal 3: 18-21 , 2003 Markowetz 2003). For example, WO 99/47114 also describes skin moisturizing agents which have natural or synthetic vitamin B ₃ compounds, for example niacinamide, nicotinic acid or nicotinyl alcohol and their derivatives, which are intended to stimulate and improve ceramide synthesis in combinations with lipid precursors.

Also for avocado oil, the unsaponifiable portion of avocado oil, ie avocado) and for linoleic acid, such effects are described (Rawlings AV, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 25: 63-95,). Also for L-arginine and L-arginine salts are used in the JP 200 290 135 described cosmetic compositions containing these agents and which are intended to restore the skin barrier.

Next the aforementioned Examples stand for today the treatment of irritated or damaged skin is still a variety of cosmetic raw materials or active substances known to be that she a regenerative, healing or soothing effect on the skin have. Nonetheless, even with many standard raw materials but until today it is not known if this is also an improvement the barrier function e.g. above an influence the lipid content of the stratum corneum.

• – Die Lamellarkörper können mehr Lipidvorstufen enthalten, so daß mehr Hautlipidtypen gebildet werden können, die für die Hautbarriere wichtig sind.
• – Der Abbau der Lipide wird verhindert.
• – Es werden mehr Lamellarkörper gebildet.
• – Die Lipidvorstufen werden schneller gebildet und schneller freigesetzt.

The following mechanisms are possible, which can lead to an increase of the skin lipid content:

• The lamellar bodies may contain more lipid precursors so that more skin lipid types can be formed which are important for the skin barrier.
• - The degradation of lipids is prevented.
• - More lamellar bodies are formed.
• - The lipid precursors are formed faster and released faster.

It Therefore, there is still a big one desire according to cosmetic and / or dermatological means, in particular by increasing the endogenous lipid content of the skin a more effective Protection and care effect compared to the currently available Cosmetics and dermatics due to the improved barrier effect the skin or the immediate regeneration in case of barrier damage.

task The present invention was therefore water and / or oil-soluble active ingredients to provide a stimulation of the endogenous synthesis of Barrier substances, in particular an increase in the endogenous lipid content or their use for producing a cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for stimulating these endogenous Syntheses.

• a.) Allantoin,
• b.) Salze und/oder Ester der Gluconsäure und/oder der Asparaginsäure,
• c.) Vorstufen des Kreatin, Kreatin und Kreatinin sowie deren Derivate
• d.) Glycyrrhetinsäure, deren Salze und/oder Ester
• e.) D-Panthenol

und/oder mindestens einem Wirkstoff, der aus den öllöslichen Gruppen

• f.) Vitamin-E-Acetat
• g.) Cholesterol
• h.) Derivate der Glycyrrhetinsäure, soweit sie in den in der Kosmetik üblicherweise verwendeten Ölen und Fetten löslich sind
• i.) pflanzliche Öle und Fette
• j.) nicht verseifbare Fraktionen pflanzlicher Fette

entweder allein oder in Kombination mit einem oder mehreren Wirkstoffen aus den Gruppen a.) bis j.) ausgewählt ist zur Herstellung eines kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Mittels zur Stimulation der endogenen Synthese von Barrieresubstanzen, insbesondere zur Steigerung des endogenen Lipidgehaltes.This object was achieved according to the invention by the use of at least one active substance selected from the water-soluble groups

• a.) Allantoin,
• b.) salts and / or esters of gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid,
• c.) precursors of creatine, creatine and creatinine and their derivatives
• d.) Glycyrrhetinsäure, their salts and / or esters
• e.) D-panthenol

and / or at least one active ingredient selected from oil-soluble groups

• f.) Vitamin E acetate
• g.) cholesterol
• h.) derivatives of glycyrrhetinic acid, as far as they are soluble in the oils and fats commonly used in cosmetics
• i.) vegetable oils and fats
• j.) unsaponifiable fractions of vegetable fats

either alone or in combination with one or more active substances from groups a) to j) is selected for the production of a cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for stimulating the endogenous synthesis of barrier substances, in particular for increasing the endogenous lipid content.

It was surprisingly found that the Active substances of water or oil soluble Groups a.) To j.) Individually or in combinations with each other for the manufacture of a cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for stimulating the endogenous synthesis of barrier substances, in particular the increase of the endogenous lipid content are suitable. So could be shown that the according to the invention and / or oil-soluble Active ingredients improve the lipid content of the skin and thereby the Barrier properties of the skin preserved or that damaged skin barriers restored can be.

Of the water-soluble Active ingredient, which is made of the water-soluble Group a.) Can be selected according to the invention can, is allantoin. It is known that allantoin is keratolytic, epithelizing and thus wound healing acts and is used in a variety of cosmetic products. (see Römpp Lexicon CHEMIE, 10th edition, p. 119). However, the literature is no Note to find that allantoin positively influences the endogenous lipid synthesis of keratinocytes.

Active substances of the water-soluble group b.) Are the salts and / or esters of gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid, in particular the ammonium, alkali and alkaline earth metal salts of gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid, such as calcium gluconate, iron gluconate and titanium gluconate, as well as alkaline earth metal algiates, especially magnesium aspartate. Preferred salts of gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid are the salts which form gluconic acid or aspartic acid with trace elements. By way of example, the trace elements chromium, iron, cobalt, copper, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, vanadium, zinc, tin, etc. are mentioned here. Preferably, zinc, copper gluconate and magnesium aspartate, either alone or in combination, are used to prepare an agent of the invention for stimulating the endogenous synthesis of barrier substances, particularly the enhancement of the endogenous lipid content. According to the invention particularly preferred is the use of water-soluble active ingredient combination of zinc and copper gluconate and magnesium aspartate, which are available from the company SEPPIC under the name ^® Sepitonic M3, for preparing the compositions according to the invention.

As the active ingredient of the water-soluble group c.) Precursors of creatine, creatine and creatinine and their derivatives, in particular creatine phosphate, creatine sulfate, creatine acetate or creatine ascorbate can be selected. Particularly preferred keratins can be selected for use in the invention, which are sold by the company Goldschmidt, under the name COSMOCAIR ^® C 100th

Water-soluble active substances of group d.) Which can be selected for the use according to the invention are glycyrrhetinic acid, its water-soluble salts and / or its esters. Especially preferred are the glycosides of glycyrrhetinic acid, preferably the glycyrrhizin. The ammonium, alkali and / or alkaline earth salts of glycyrrhizin, preferably the ammonium, potassium and calcium salt of glycyrrhizin are advantageously used, the dipotassium glycyrrhizin, which is available from Cognis under the name Planaktiv ^® PGL, particularly preferred is.

Of the Active ingredient, which is made of the water-soluble Group e.) Selected is D-panthenol.

Out the oil-soluble Group f.) Vitamin E acetate can be selected.

According to the invention is off the oil-soluble Group g.) Cholesterol used.

Out the oil-soluble Group h.) Derivatives of glycyrrhic acid selected As far as they are in the oils commonly used in cosmetics and Fat soluble are. For example, you can the esterification products obtained by esterification of the hydroxyl group at the 3-position glycyrrhic acid with organic acids to be obtained. Such organic acids can be aliphatically saturated, unbranched fatty acids such as. Acetic acid, Lauric acid, palmitic and stearic acid, i.e. 3-acetoxy glycyrrhetinate, 3-lauroxy glycyrrhetinate, 3-palmitoxy-glycyrrhetinate and Stearoyloxy glycyrrhetinate. Furthermore, the esterification products glycyrrhetinic acid saturated with branched, but also mono- or polyunsaturated unbranched fatty acids are selected according to the invention. Preferred derivatives of glycyrrhic acid are the esterification products, by esterification of the carboxyl group at the 20-position of Glycyrrhetinsäure with fatty alcohols, i. linear, saturated or unsaturated primary Alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, e.g. Lauryl alcohol (lauryl glycyrrhetinate), cetyl alcohol (cetyl glycyrrhetinate) and stearyl alcohol (stearyl glycyrrhetinate). Particularly according to the invention Stearyl Glycyrrhetinat from the oil-soluble group h.) Is selectable.

From the oil-soluble group i.) Selectable vegetable oils and fats, pulp fats and seed fats can be selected. Fruit fat fats include palm and olive oil and avocado oil. The seed fats which can be selected according to the invention are usually subdivided according to their characteristic fatty acids (see Ullmanns Encyklopadie der technischen Chemie, 4th Edition, Vol. 11, page 500 et seq.)
Laurine and myristic fats
Palmitic and stearin rich fats
Palmitic acid rich oils
Low-Palmitic Acid, oils rich in oil and linoleic acid
Leguminosenöle
Cruciferenöle
Oils with conjugated fatty acids
Oils with substituted fatty acids

As laurin and myristinreiche fats are especially coconut, palm kernel, and Babassufett as well as other palm seed fats, such as Cohunefett, Murumurufett, Ouricurifett or Tucumfett to call. Furthermore, the seed fat of laurel tree (Laurus nobilis) and the seed fats of various myristica species, for example Myristica officinalis (nutmeg butter), Myristica otoba (Otobafett), Virola surinamensis (Ucuhuba fat) or Irvingia gabonensis / Irvingia barteri (Dikafett).

palmitic and stearin-rich fats are, for example, cocoa butter, shea butter (Shea butter), Borneo tallow ("green butter "), Illipe butter, Mowrah butter, Katiaufett, Fulwatalg etc.

Palmitinrich oils are cottonseed or cottonseed oil, kapok oil, Okra and Kenaf oil, Pumpkin seed oil, corn oil as well the grain oils Wheat germ oil and rice germ oil.

Palmitinsäurearme, oil and linoleic oils are Sunflower oil, Sesame oil, Linseed oil, Perilla oil, hemp oil, tea seed oil, safflower oil, niger oil, grape seed oil, poppy seed oil, beech oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, evening primrose oil, etc.

When Leguminosenöle can for example, peanut oil or soybean oil as well as crucifer oils, Rape oil, mustard oil or camelina (Camelia sativa) selected become.

Oils with substituted ones fatty acids can Castor oil, Chaulmoogra oil (Taractogenus kurzii) according to the invention, Hydnocarpusöl (Hydnocarpus whigtiana) or Gorliöl (Oncoba echinata).

preferred from the oil-soluble Group i.) Selectable vegetable oils and fats are avocado oil, grapeseed oil as well Evening primrose oil.

From the oil-soluble group j.) Unsaponifiable fractions of vegetable fats can be selected, which are described for example in DE-OS 2,019,226, in particular locust bean oil, palm oil, dwarf palm oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, black mustard oil, avocado oil, Peanut oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil, olive oil, corn oil, cocoa butter, castor oil, bay oil (moringa oil), linseed oil, rapeseed oil, oregano tree oil, wheat germ oil, kartham oil, nut oil, hazelnut oil and beet oil. Preferably, the unsaponifiable fractions of sunflower oil and / or avocado oil are selected according to the invention, the non-saponifiable fraction of the sunflower oil, which is available under the name SOLINE ^® by the company. LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE, is particularly preferred.

• – Eine Steigerung des Hautlipidgehaltes konnte erreicht werden, wodurch die Hautbarriere schneller repariert werden kann.
• – Entzündungsreaktionen der Haut, die u.a. die Barrierewirkung beeinträchtigen können, werden verringert.

By the use according to the invention of the water- and oil-soluble active compounds, the following advantages could be achieved, as detailed in the following Experimental Part, in which, in order to analyze the influence of active ingredients on the lipid content of the skin, using a 3-dimensional skin model Using SDS as a model irritant (SDS = sodium dodecyl sulfate) to characterize the condition of the skin models by analyzing the inflammatory parameters and the LDH content:

• - An increase in the skin lipid content could be achieved, whereby the skin barrier can be repaired faster.
• - Inflammatory reactions of the skin, which may affect, inter alia, the barrier effect are reduced.

It should be emphasized in this connection that it was surprising that the tested water-soluble active substances which can be selected according to the invention lead to an increase in the content of barrier lipids. Has also been shown that allantoin, Sepitonic M3 ^®, Cosmocair ^® C100 and plan Activ ^® PGL and niacinamide have greatly increased the amount of lipid skin models.

moreover showed the active compounds according to the invention an anti-inflammatory Effect, whereby some active substances also positively on the Zellvialibilität of the skin models impacted.

in the Following, the invention will be explained by way of examples. These Explanations are merely exemplary and limit the general inventive concept not a.

experimental part

3 dimensional skin models have an analogous structure like the Human skin. You can Also used as test models to repair the barrier after injury with model irritants (see A. zur Mühlen et al, CT Journal 2004 in press).

To analyze the effect of drugs on the lipid content of the skin, using such a 3-dimensional skin model with SDS as a model irritant (SDS = sodium dodecylsul fat) characterizes the condition of the skin models via the analysis of the inflammatory parameters and the LDH content. Only if there is damage in the subtoxic region, ie no massive cell damage is caused by SDS, a regeneration of the skin barrier can take place. In addition, the influence of the active ingredients on the inflammatory and cell damage processes can be characterized.

Of the Influence of Active ingredients and the formulations on the lipid synthesis was through the determination of skin lipids in the 3-dimensional skin models characterized. The analyzed lipid levels were related with the untreated or treated only with the SDS samples set.

Around to exclude an interaction between drug / formulation were the water-soluble Active ingredients in PBS buffer (a phosphate buffer) and the oil-soluble Active ingredients dissolved in paraffin - see tables 1 and 2 below.

Table 1:

Table 2:

For this purpose, using the test substances listed in Table 3, which were freshly prepared on the day of the experiment, the following method was used: Table 3:

The skin models (EpiDerm-200-HCF from MatTek Corporation, Ashland, MA, USA) were stored overnight at 4 ° C. The next day, the EPI-100-ASY medium (lot 10689A) was preheated, the skin models were removed from the cargo box and the transport agar was removed. The skin models were transferred into 6-well cell culture plates each with 900 ul EPI-100-ASY medium. The cultures were incubated at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ for one hour. After this time the medium was removed. The EPI-100-ASY medium was replaced with 0.9 ml of EPI-100-MM medium (Maintenance Medium Lot. 10689A).

Subsequently was on the corresponding samples 30 ul 0.35% sodium dodecyl sulfate (Merck, Darmstadt, Germany) in PBS (PBS with Ca and Mg, Biochrom, Berlin, Germany) pipetted. On the controls were given to the vehicle only. After another 40 min All samples were taken 3 times 500 μl PBS washed. Thereafter, another change of medium took place. The skin models were placed on stands with 5 ml of EPI-100-MM medium. It followed the order of the test substances solved in the vehicle 30 μl each, just enough that the surface the cultures was weakly covered.

To 24 hours a complete medium change took place. The medium was for the Determination of the IL-1α content aliquoted. After 28 hours, the skin models were then used for lipid analysis and for the determination of the protein content is frozen in liquid nitrogen.

Determination of the IL-1α content

The Quantification of the above parameters has been done commercially available Test kits (Interleukin 1α, R & D Systems GmbH, Wiesbaden-Norderstedt, Germany) and took place according to manufacturer's instructions instead of.

There the medium was frozen to determine the IL-1α content, was a proteolytic degradation of interleukin by the addition of 40 μl Complete (Protease inhibitors cocktail, Complete, Roche Diagnostics, Mannheim, Germany) to 1 ml of cell culture supernatant prevented.

lipid analysis

For the analysis of Ceramide I (Cosmoferm, Delft, Netherlands) Ceramide III (Cosmoferm, Delft, Netherlands) Ceramide VI (Cosmoferm, Delft, Netherlands) cholesterol (Sigma, Deisenhofen, Germany) Cholesterol 3-sulfate (Sigma, Deisenhofen, Germany) phosphatidylcholine (Sigma, Deisenhofen, Germany) The skin models were thawed and extracted according to the method of Ponec and Weerheim (Ponec M., Weerheim A, Methods in Enzymology Vol. 190: 31-41, 1990). The lipid extracts were then subjected to TLC analysis.

Abb. 1: Induktion der Interleukin 1α-Freisetzung bei SDS und/oder Prüfsubstanzbehandelten Proben (Kontrollen n = 4, Prüfsubstanzen n = 2). Interleukin 1α release

Fig. 1: Induction of interleukin 1α release in SDS and / or test substance treated samples (controls n = 4, test substances n = 2).

Abb. 2: Induktion der Interleukin 1α-Freisetzung bei SDS und/oder Prüfsubstanz-behandelten Proben (Kontrollen n = 4, Prüfsubstanzen n = 2).

Fig. 2: Induction of interleukin 1α release in SDS and / or test substance-treated samples (controls n = 4, test substances n = 2).

This results in the following efficacy of the tested oil-soluble cosmetic raw materials with regard to anti-inflammatory properties (inhibition of IL-1α formation) after damage with SDS:
Vitamin E acetate = cholesterol = avocadol = soline ^® = grape seed oil> evening primrose oil> bisabolol

Tabelle 6: Übersicht über die Wirksamkeit verschiedener Kosmetikrohstoffe auf den Lipidgehalt von 3D-Hautmodellen im Vergleich zur nur mit SDS-behandelten Kontrollen.

The result is the following effectiveness of the tested water-soluble cosmetic raw materials with regard to anti-inflammatory properties (inhibition of the release of prostaglandins) after damage with SDS:
(Folic Acid>) Sepitonic ^® »Arginine>Panthenol>Allantoin>Niacinamide> CosmoCair ^® = Plantaktiv ^® PGL Lipid content of the skin models, taking into account the protein content Table 5:

Table 6: Overview of the effectiveness of various cosmetic raw materials on the lipid content of 3D skin models compared to SDS-treated controls only.

The Results show that the tested active ingredients to an increase of the barrier lipids in the Skin lead. This will increase the resilience the skin increases against noxious and thus restored the barrier function of the skin.

summary of results

In The literature discusses that an increase in lipid content by endogenous processes in the skin is possible. This principle of action can be applied to skin protection and skin care products as shown below become.

Examples of preferred skin protection and skin care formulations (all figures in% by weight):

Claims (14)

Use of at least one active substance selected from the water-soluble groups a.) Allantoin, b.) Salts and / or esters of gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid, c.) Precursors of creatine, creatine and creatinine and derivatives thereof d.) Glycyrrhetinic acid, their salts and / or esters e.) D-panthenol and / or at least one active substance derived from the oil-soluble groups f.) Vitamin E acetate g.) Cholesterol h.) Derivatives of glycyrrhetinic acid, as far as contained in cosmetics i) vegetable oils and fats j.) unsaponifiable fractions of vegetable fats either alone or in combination with one or more active substances from groups a.) to j.) is selected for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for stimulating the endogenous synthesis of barrier substances, in particular for increasing the endogenous lipid content of the skin. Use according to claim 1, characterized that as Active substances of the water-soluble Group b.) Ammonium, alkali and alkaline earth metal salts the gluconic acid and / or aspartic acid for the manufacture of a cosmetic and / or dermatological agent selected become. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized that as Salts of gluconic acid and / or of aspartic acid Salts selected Be made of gluconic acid or aspartic acid are formed with trace elements. Use according to claims 1 to 3, characterized that as water Active substance of group b.) Zinc or copper gluconate for the production of the cosmetic and / or dermatological agent. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized that as water Active ingredient of group b.) Magnesium aspartate is selected. Use according to claims 1 to 3, characterized that as water-soluble Agents of group b.) A combination of zinc and copper gluconate and magnesium aspartate is used. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized that as water Active ingredient of group d.) The ammonium, alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of glycyrrhizin selected become. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized that as water Active ingredient of group d.) The dipotassium salt of glycyrrhizin is selected. Use according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized that as Active ingredients of the oil-soluble Group h.) Derivatives of glycyrrhynic acid are selected by esterification the hydroxyl group at the 3-position glycyrrhinic acid with organic acids and / or by esterification of the carboxyl group at the 20-position glycyrrhetinic acid to be obtained. Use according to claim 9, characterized that derivatives glycyrrhic acid to be selected, by esterification of the hydroxyl group at the 3-position of Glycyrrhinsäure with aliphatically saturated, unbranched or branched fatty acids and / or mono- or polyunsaturated, unbranched fatty acids become. Use according to claim 9, characterized that as Active ingredients of the oil-soluble Group h.) Derivatives of glycyrrhynic acid are selected by esterification the carboxyl group at the 20-position of Glycyrrhetinsäure with Fatty alcohols are obtained. Use according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized that as Active substance of oil-soluble Group h.) Stearyl Glycyrrhetinat is selected. Use according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized that as Active substance of oil-soluble Group i.) Avocado oil, Grapeseed oil or evening primrose oil selected become. Use according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized that as Active substance of oil-soluble Group j.) The non-saponifiable fraction of the avocado oil and / or of sunflower oil is selected.