DE10136076A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing creatinine or its derivative, useful e.g. for combating skin aging symptoms or treating inflammatory conditions such as eczema or psoriasis - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations (A) containing creatinine (and/or its derivatives) (I) are new.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of creatinine and / or Creatinine derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment and Prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV and / or ozone induced skin damage and of inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions.

Cosmetic skin care means primarily that the natural Function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural Fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances may increase Substances or for infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also to reduce the fat and fat caused by daily washing Compensate for skin water loss. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist Protect environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and skin aging delay.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

• a) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• b) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• c) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken) und
• d) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

• a) Visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis);
• b) flaccidity and wrinkling;
• c) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and
• d) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention particularly relates to products for the care of the natural Wise aged skin, as well as to treat the consequential damage of light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. B. Retinoids (Vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited in scope. Daüber In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development, the active ingredients in sufficient to stabilize against oxidative decay. The use of vitamin A In addition, acidic products often cause severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for Protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the ingredients cosmetic preparations before harmful oxidation processes.

The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. During rays with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB area, an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight, the narrower range is around 308 nm specified.

Numerous compounds are known for protecting against UVB radiation, in which it are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, Salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole. Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA Area, it is important to have filter substances available because of its rays May cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA Radiation damage the elastic and collagen fibers of the Connective tissue causes what causes the skin to age prematurely and that it is more numerous as a cause phototoxic and photoallergic reactions can be seen. The harmful influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

To protect against UVA rays, certain derivatives of the Dibenzoylmethans used, their photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), is not sufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with skin metabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Even undefined radicals Photo products that are created in the skin itself can, due to their high Reactivity Show uncontrolled follow-up reactions. But also singlet oxygen, A non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can Radiation occur, as do short-lived epoxies and many others. singlet for example, stands out from what is normally present Triplet oxygen (radical ground state) due to increased reactivity. However exist also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that Ionic species are also formed when exposed to UV, which in turn oxidatively enters the able to intervene in biochemical processes.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological Formulations additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated.

It has already been suggested vitamin E, a substance known to be use antioxidant effect in light protection formulations, but still remains here achieved effect far behind the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and to create active pharmaceutical ingredients and preparations and light protection formulations which for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, especially photodermatoses, preferably serve PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca- Acne and a variety of other terms as used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al. Zentralblatt Skin and STDs (1989), 156, p. 2), are specified.

Mainly, antioxidants are used as protective substances against the spoilage of them containing preparations used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in the undesirable oxidation processes can occur in human and animal skin. Such Processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher:

Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), become oxidative Skin damage and its closer causes are listed.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions can be cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. So is already in the U.S. Patents 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and numerous other documents Vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect in Use sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved remains far behind the hoped for.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways to overcome the disadvantages of Avoid state of the art. In particular, the effect of remedying the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

The object of the present invention was to remedy these shortcomings.

It has surprisingly been found that the use of creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV and or ozone induced Skin damage as well as inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions the disadvantages Remedies state of the art.

Creatinine (from Greek: το κρεαζ = "the meat") is characterized by the following structure


and arises in the organism through non-enzymatic conversion from creatine phosphate


and is excreted via the kidney. The amount of creatinine excretion is proportional to the muscle mass and almost constant for the individual. Creatinine is contained in meat extract and bouillon cubes.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Invention 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, of creatinine and / or Creatinine derivatives, based on the total composition of the preparations.

JP 2000/247866 describes skin cosmetics containing creatine and / or creatinine, which can be used as a cream or as a milky lotion, the preparations in question have excellent skin-care properties be attributed. However, this document could not be the path to the present invention pave.

Furthermore, WO 00/33787 describes the use of creatinine as an effective one Part of deodorants. This script also could not find the way to the present one Pave invention.

EP-A 565 010 also describes hair growth and hair dye preparations containing creatinine phosphate. This script also could not find the way to pave the present invention.

Finally in US-A 4,590,067 and EP-A-178 602 the use of Creatine or creatinine for the preparation of preparations with anti-inflammatory Effectiveness described. Even these writings could not find the way to the present one Pave invention.

• - von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden
• - von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z. B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• - von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.
• - von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• - von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• - von Juckreiz,
• - von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• - von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• - von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

möglich. Der erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffes bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäßem Wirkstoff dient aber auch in überraschender Weise

• - zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• - zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• - zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen.
• - zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• - zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine)
• - zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

When using the active ingredient used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis

• - from deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - Of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also serves in a surprising manner

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions.
• - to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration
• - to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention that according to the invention used active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions use.

According to the invention, preparations containing the inventive Contain active ingredient combinations, usual antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfone oximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives ( e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanidic acid, Nordarzydajihihid, nordihydajihihuic acid, nordihydrogihidic acid , Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbene and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

• - von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden
• - von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z. B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• - von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.
• - von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• - von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• - von Juckreiz,
• - von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• - von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• - von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

ermöglichen, aber auch in überraschender Weise

• - zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• - zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• - zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen.
• - zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• - zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine)
• - zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

It has proven to be particularly advantageous to add a content of creatine to preparations according to the invention. It was surprising that a content of creatinine increases the stability of creatine in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Accordingly, combinations of active substances consisting of creatine and creatinine, which in a synergistic manner are an effective treatment but also a prophylaxis, are accordingly also according to the invention

• - from deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - Of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

enable, but also in a surprising way

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions.
• - to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration
• - to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

Creatine (also from Greek: το κρεαζ = "the meat") is characterized by the following structure:

It is found in the vertebrate muscle juice to 0.05-0.4%, in small amounts also in Brain and blood. As a monohydrate, it is a colorless, crystalline powder. In aqueous Solution, creatinine is formed. It arises in the organism through transamidation of L-arginine on glycine to guanidinoacetic acid and its subsequent methylation using S-adenosylmethionine (by guanidinoacetate methyltransferase). You keep creatine for an appetite-promoting component of beef and meat extract. additional creatine with food increases physical performance.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Invention 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, of creatine and / or Creatine derivatives, based on the total composition of the preparations.

It is beneficial to have the weight ratio of creatinine to creatine in the range of 50: 1 to 1:50, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2 to choose.

The preferred derivative is creatine phosphate, which has the following structure:


and which is widespread in fresh muscle and plays an important role there as energy-storing phosphate (phosphagen). In the working muscle there is creatine phosphate with adenosine 5'-diphosphate under the influence of the enzyme creatine kinase adenosine 5'-triphosphate (ATP) and creatine; the reverse reaction takes place in the resting muscle. But also creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols lead to advantageous embodiments of the invention.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the Active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the invention The active ingredient used is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the Active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of used according to the invention Active ingredient is applied to the affected skin.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into usual cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which come in different forms can be present. So you can z. B. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), one Hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol represent.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a Cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, Oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more Emulsifiers commonly used for such a type of formulation become.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention that Active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for Insert cleaning of the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. among them include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, Insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic effective substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding formulation requirements apply medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. The For the sake of simplicity, it becomes a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the statutory provisions the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and Drugs Act).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient used according to the invention as Add an additive to preparations that already have other active ingredients for other purposes contain.

Cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can accordingly used in the sense of the present invention, depending on its structure, for example are used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, daily or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous that compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

If appropriate, such cosmetic and dermatological ones are also favorable Preparations in the form of a sunscreen. Preferably included In addition to the active ingredient used according to the invention, these additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least an inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention to use such cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not the Protection against sunlight is, but which nevertheless contains UV protection substances contain. For example, day creams are usually UV-A or UV-B Filter substances incorporated.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which have UV Absorb radiation in the UVB range, taking the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z. B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher,
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure- (4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2, 2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-Benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2, 2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z. B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze,
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. B. sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of the UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, should of course not be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of an inventive UVA filter with a UVB filter or an inventive cosmetic or dermatological preparation, which also contains a UVB filter.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention to be used, usually in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are included. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of Dibenzoylmethane, especially 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane 1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations, which contain these combinations are the subject of the invention. They can equal amounts of UVA filter substances are used, which for UVB Filter substances were called.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present Invention can also contain inorganic pigments, which are usually used in the Cosmetics can be used to protect the skin from UV rays. It is about for oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents are. Pigments based on titanium dioxide are particularly preferred. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations can be used become.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as usually in such preparations are used, e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, Bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, Pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, Emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological Formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

• - Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C- Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. at alcohol can be another component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageously selected from the group of the esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the saturated and / or triglycerol esters unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention. It can also be advantageous if necessary be waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred besides the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also beneficial in the sense to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, also alcohols low C number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which are advantageously chosen can from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their Derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, especially advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Gels used according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low C number, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or one above named oil in the presence of a thickener, which is used in oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

Fixed pens contain e.g. B. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or Fatty acid ester.

Common raw materials, which are intended for use as cosmetic pencils in the sense of suitable in the present invention are liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, Isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. Beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

As a propellant for cosmetic and / or sprayable from aerosol containers Dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention are the usual known ones volatile, liquefied propellants, e.g. hydrocarbons (propane, Butane, isobutane) are suitable, which are used alone or in a mixture with one another can. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se that basically for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable, but nevertheless because of harmful effects on the environment or other circumstances should be avoided, in particular Fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be used as gels are present in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic Thickeners, e.g. B. gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. Aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in that Gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. 1. PIT emulsions

2. Examples of O / W cream

3. Examples of O / W cream



4. Examples of W / O emulsions



5. Examples of W / O emulsions



6. Examples of hydrodispersions

7th example (gel cream)

Example 8 (W / O cream)

9 example (W / O cream)

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives. 2. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for prophylaxis and / or Treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive determined and dry skin (such as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders, itching, sensitive or irritated skin, light-related skin damage and UV-induced Immunosuppression, changes in desquamation, changes in normal Fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal Fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation deficit sensitive or hypoactive Skin conditions or deficient sensitive or hypoactive conditions of Skin appendages and to reduce skin thickness). 3. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and prophylaxis the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for Treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation the skin. (such as skin degenerative symptoms (such as age spots, wrinkles, Telangiectasia, sagging skin, loss of elasticity, as well as epidermal shrinkage and dermal cell layers, the components of the connective tissue, the rete cones and Capillaries), so-called skin luster and fatigue (sagging skin and / or Skin fatigue), increased activation of proteolytic enzymes in the skin such as B. Metalloproteinases, disorders of normal collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and Glycosaminoglycan homeostasis, changes in normal fibroblast and Keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and Keratinocyte differentiation, deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis (especially with deficient or hypoactive skin conditions), environmental (through Smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals and the like caused) negative changes in the skin and / or skin appendages). 4. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for treatment and / or Prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders. 5. Use of preparations according to claim 1 to increase the Ceramide biosynthesis (such as changes in ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism healthy skin). 6. Use preparations according to claim 1 to strengthen the barrier function of Skin (such as horny barrier disorders, changes in normal Lipid peroxidations, changes in transepidermal water loss and normal moisture content of the skin). 7. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for treatment and / or Prevention of normal skin pH and osmolyte balance disorders. 8. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for treatment and / or Prevention of deviations from normal cell-cell communication in the skin (e.g. intercellular communications via mediators and / or via mechanical / physiological connections). 9. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for treatment and / or Prophylaxis of functional disorders of the skin appendages (e.g. hair loss, improved hair growth, seborrheic symptoms, oily skin, oily hair, Comedones, but also dandruff). 10. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claims 2-9, characterized characterized in that the content of creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations 0.001-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.