WO2003011241A1

WO2003011241A1 - Utilization of creatinine and/or creatinine derivatives in cosmetic and dermatological preparations

Info

Publication number: WO2003011241A1
Application number: PCT/EP2002/008124
Authority: WO
Inventors: Helga Biergiesser; Thomas Blatt; Inge Kruse; Melanie Schmidt; Uwe SCHÖNROCK; Franz STÄB
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2001-07-25
Filing date: 2002-07-22
Publication date: 2003-02-13
Also published as: WO2003011241A8; EP1414401A1; JP2004538299A; DE10136076A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a combination of active ingredients consisting of creatinine and creatine.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

USE OF CREATININE AND / OR CREATINE DERIVATIVES IN COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATIONS

The present invention relates to the use of combinations of creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives with creatine and / or its derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV and / or ozone-induced skin damage as well as inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions.

Cosmetic skin care is understood primarily to strengthen or restore the skin's natural function as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g., water, natural fats, electrolytes).

If this function is disturbed, it may lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or the infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily loss of fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient. In addition, skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.

The chronological skin aging is caused eg by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and der is is due to aging, for example, the following structural damage and dysfunction, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis": a) dryness, roughness and development of dryness wrinkles; b) itching; and c) reduced rehydration through sebaceous glands (eg after washing).

Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical noxae can be cumulatively effective and e.g. accelerate or supplement endogenous aging processes. In epidermis and dermis, exogenous factors occur, e.g. on the following structural damage and dysfunction in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging:

d) Visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis); e) slackness and formation of wrinkles; f) local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentation (e.g., age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g., cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin, as well as for the treatment of the consequential damages of photoageing, in particular of the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or derivatives thereof) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on the structural damage, however, is limited in scope. In addition, there are significant difficulties in product development in stabilizing the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative degradation. In addition, the use of vitamin A acid-containing products often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the ingredients of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight, the narrower range around 308 nm is given.

For protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have available filter substances, since its rays can cause reactions in photosensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage of the elastic and collagenous fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be regarded as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

For protection against the rays of the UVA range, therefore, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are used whose photostability (Int J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) is not sufficiently given.

However, the UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism.

Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are free-radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined radical photoproducts, which are formed in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur on UV irradiation, as well as short-lived epoxides and many others. singlet For example, it is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

Furthermore, UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. There is thus the risk that ionic species may also be formed on exposure to UV radiation, which in turn may intervene oxidatively in the biochemical processes.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated in the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with known antioxidant effect in sunscreen formulations, yet here again, the effect achieved far below the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active ingredients and preparations as well as sunscreen formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca- acne and a variety of other names, as in the literature (eg, A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt skin and venereal diseases (1989), 156, p.2), are indicated.

Mainly antioxidants are used as protective substances against spoilage of preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 et seq. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publishers: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley, California), oxidative damage to the skin and its nearer causes are listed. Also, for the purpose of preventing such reactions, antioxidants and / or radical scavengers may additionally be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

Although some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. For example, it has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 as well as numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with known antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved here also remains far behind the hoped-for effect.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways that avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of repairing the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and the prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

To remedy these evils was the object of the present invention.

It has surprisingly been found that the use of creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives with creatine and / or its derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV- and ozone-induced skin damage as well as inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions the disadvantages The prior art helps and at the same time the content of creatinine increases the stability of creatine in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Creatinine (from Greek: τo κpεotς = "the flesh") is characterized by the following structure

and arises in the organism by nonenzymatic transformation from creatine phosphate according to

and is excreted via the kidney. The amount of creatinine excretion is proportional to muscle mass and approximately constant for the individual. Creatinine is included in meat extract and meatballs.

Creatine (also from Greek: τo pεας = "the flesh") is characterized by the following structure:

It is found in the muscle juice of vertebrates to 0.05-0.4%, in small quantities in the brain and blood. As a monohydrate, it is a colorless, crystalline powder. Creatine is formed in aqueous solution. In the organism it is formed by transamidation of L-arginine to glycine to guanidinoacetic acid and their subsequent methylation by means of S-adenosylmethionine (by guanidinoacetate methyltransferase). Creatine is thought to be an appetizing ingredient in beef and meat extract. Creatine supplementation increases physical performance.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably comprise an active ingredient combination of 0.001-50% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1-8% by weight, of creatine and / or creatine derivatives with 0.001-50% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1-8% by weight of creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives, based on the total composition of the preparations. It is advantageous to choose the weight ratio of creatinine to creatine from the range of 50: 1 to 1:50, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2.

Preferred derivative is the creatine phosphate, which has the following structure:

and which is widespread in fresh muscle where it plays an important role as an energy-storing phosphate (Phosphagen). In working muscle, creatine phosphate with adenosine 5'-diphosphate, under the influence of the enzyme creatine kinase, releases adenosine 5'-triphosphate (ATP) and creatine; in the resting muscle the reverse reaction takes place.

But also creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and esterified at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols derivatives lead to advantageous embodiments of the invention.

Although JP2000 / 247866 describes skin cosmetics containing creatine and / or creatinine, which can be used as a cream or as a milky lotion, the preparations in question are said to have excellent skin-care properties. However, this document could not pave the way for the present invention.

Further, WO00 / 33787 describes the use of creatinine as an effective ingredient of deodorants. Even this document could not pave the way to the present invention.

Furthermore, EP-A 565 010 describes hair-growing and hair-dyeing preparations containing creatinine phosphate. Even this document could not pave the way to the present invention.

Finally, US Pat. No. 4,590,067 and EP-A-178 602 describe the use of creatine or creatinine for the preparation of preparations with antiinflammatory activity. These writings could not pave the way to the present invention.

When using the combination of active substances used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations having an effective content of the combination of active substances according to the invention, an effective way is surprisingly achieved Treatment, but also prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive states of skin attachment of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or skin appendages, of environmental (smoking, smog , reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-induced negative changes of the skin and the skin appendages, of light-induced skin damage from pigmentation disorders, itching, dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders, hair loss and for improved hair growth of inflammatory skin conditions and atopic eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, polymorphic Light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo possible. The active ingredient combination according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of inventive

However, combination of active ingredients also surprisingly serves to soothe sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate the collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions. to increase the cell renewal and regeneration of the skin to increase the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (for example for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) for the pre- and post-treatment in topical application of laser and Abschleifbehandlungen z. As the reduction of skin wrinkles and scars serve to counteract the resulting skin irritation and promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention, the active ingredient combination or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient combination used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis. desired skin conditions to use.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention can be used with customary antioxidants.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urotanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), rothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione , Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfo ximin) in very low tolerated dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alaninediacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium). Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), and benzylic resin, benzoic acid, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, norhydrohydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof , Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and de ren derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular particular 1 - 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient combinations used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient combination used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations having an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

Advantageously, the active ingredient combination used according to the invention can be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations which may be in various forms. So they can e.g. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, or a multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or even an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to incorporate the active ingredient combination used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually not conceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient combination used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

If appropriate, cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen agent are also advantageous. In addition to the combination of active substances used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the context of the present inventions to prepare such cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of UV protective substances. Thus, for example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated in day creams. Compositions according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular 1% to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid

(4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

2,4,6-Thanilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or

Triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA film according to the invention ters with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters in formulations according to the invention which are customarily contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations containing these combinations are the subject of the invention. The same quantities of UVA filter substances which have been mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the present invention may also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations may be used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic active substances, auxiliaries and / or additives such as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, colorants, pigments that have coloring properties, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent: Water or aqueous solutions of oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products ,

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2- Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C ₁₂ . _15- alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase can also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate. If appropriate, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, di ethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C number alcohols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and in particular one or more thickening agents, which can be advantageously selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, Polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination ,

Gels used in the present invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an above-mentioned oil in the presence of a thickener which is preferably silica or an aluminosilicate in oily-alcoholic gels, in aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels, preferably a polyacrylate.

Fixed pins contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.

Usual base materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the context of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid constituents (eg petrolatum, lanolin), solid constituents (eg beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline Waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (eg carnauba wax, candelilla wax)

Suitable propellants for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the context of the present invention, the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, such as hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) are suitable, which can be used alone or in mixture with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use. Of course, those skilled in the art will recognize that there are inherently nontoxic propellants which would be useful in the practice of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should be avoided due to adverse environmental effects or other concomitant conditions, especially fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (US Pat. CFC).

Cosmetic preparations for the purposes of the present invention may also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents used for this purpose, preferably water, are also organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. For example, aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickening agent is present in the gel e.g. in an amount of between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

1. PIT emulsions

Claims

Claims:

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing an active ingredient combination of creatinine and / or its derivatives with creatine and / or its derivatives.

2. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive and dry skin (such as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders, itching , sensitive or irritated skin, light-induced skin damage and UV-induced immunosuppression, changes in desquamation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation Reduction in skin thickness).

3. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, (such as, for example, degenerative symptoms of the skin (such as age spots, wrinkles , Telangiectasias, sagging skin, loss of elasticity, as well as loss of the epidermal and dermal cell layers, the components of the connective tissue, the reticles and capillary vessels), so-called skin luster and fatigue (skin slackening and / or skin fatigue), increased activation of proteolytic enzymes in the skin such as e.g. Metalloproteinases, disorders of normal collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and glycosaminoglycan homeostasis and normal skin regeneration, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation. Changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation, deficiency symptoms of intracellular D NS synthesis (especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions), environmental (through smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free Radicals and the like caused negative changes in the skin and / or the appendages of the skin).

4. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

5. Use of preparations according to claim 1 to increase ceramide biosynthesis (such as changes in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin).

6. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for strengthening the barrier function of the skin (such as eg horny layer barrier disorders, changes in normal epidperoxidations, changes in transepidermal water loss and the normal moisture content of the skin).

7. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of disorders of normal skin pH and the osmolytic balance.

8. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of deviations from normal cell-cell communication in the skin (e.g. intercellular communication via mediators and / or via mechanical / physiological connections).

9. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional disorders of the skin appendages (e.g. hair loss, improved hair growth, seborrheic symptoms, oily skin, oily hair, comedones, but also dandruff).

10. Preparations according to claim 1 and use according to claims 2 to 9, characterized in that the content of creatinine and / or its derivatives 0.001 - 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 - 10 wt .-% and the content of creatine and its derivatives is 0.001-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.