WO2004089326A1

WO2004089326A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a combination of creatinine, creatine and bioquinones

Info

Publication number: WO2004089326A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/050482
Authority: WO
Inventors: Uwe Schoenrock; Volker Schreiner; Franz Staeb; Inge Kruse; Helga Biergiesser; Holger Lenz; Claudia Mundt; Melanie Schmidt; Thomas Blatt
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2003-04-10
Filing date: 2004-04-07
Publication date: 2004-10-21
Also published as: DE10316666A1; DE10316666B4

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a combination of active ingredients made from creatinine and/or derivatives thereof containing creatine and/or derivatives thereof and bioquinones, in addition to plant and animal extracts containing the latter.

Description

description

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATIONS WITH A COMBINATION OF CREATININE WITH CREATINE AND BIOCHINONES

The present invention relates to the use of combinations of creatinine and / or creatinine derivatives with creatine and / or its derivatives with bioquinones in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV and or ozone-induced skin damage and of inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Chronological skin aging is caused, for example, by endogenous, genetically determined factors. The following structural damage and functional disorders occur in the epidermis and dermis due to aging, which can also fall under the term "senile xerosis": a) dryness, roughness and the formation of wrinkles due to dryness, b) itching and c) reduced regreasing due to sebum glands (eg after washing).

Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants can be cumulative and e.g. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it is particularly caused by exogenous factors, e.g. to the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging: d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited in scope. In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development to sufficiently stabilize the active ingredients against oxidative decay. The use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for protecting cosmetic preparations themselves or for protecting the constituents of cosmetic preparations against harmful oxidation processes.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns. The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against the rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are therefore used, the photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) of which is insufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly free radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen that is normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV, which in turn can then oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes. In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The object of the invention was therefore also to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names, such as those used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Sexually Diseases (1989), 156, p.2), are specified.

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. It has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect. The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways which avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of remedying the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and the prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects. The object of the present invention was to remedy these shortcomings.

It has surprisingly been found that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing an active ingredient combination of creatinine and / or its derivatives with creatine and / or its derivatives and bioquinones and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same, alleviate the disadvantages of the prior art and at the same time the creatinine content increases the stability of creatine in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

The invention also includes the use of such preparations for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive and dry skin (such as, for example, atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, Wound healing disorders, itching, sensitive or irritated skin, light-induced skin damage and UV-induced immunosuppression, changes in desquamation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation, deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions, sensitive, or hypoactive skin conditions, sensitive, or hypoactive skin conditions, sensitive, or hypoactive skin conditions and to reduce skin thickness).

Furthermore, the invention comprises the use of such preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, for. B. degenerative symptoms of the skin (such as age spots, wrinkles, telangiectasias, sagging skin, loss of elasticity, as well as loss of the epidermal and dermal cell layers, the components of the connective tissue, the rete cones and capillary vessels), so-called skin luster and fatigue (skin sagging and / or skin fatigue), increased activation of proteolytic enzymes in the skin such as B. Metalloproteinases, disorders of normal collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and glycosaminoglycan homeostasis and normal skin regeneration, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation. Changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation, deficiency symptoms of the intracellular DNA synthesis (especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions), environmental (caused by smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals and the like) negative changes in the skin and / or the appendages of the skin. Also according to the invention is the use of such preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders, for increasing ceramide biosynthesis (such as changes in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin), for strengthening the barrier function of the skin (such as. B. Horn layer barrier disorders, changes in normal lipid peroxidation, changes in transepidermal water loss and normal moisture content of the skin), for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of disorders of the normal skin pH and the osmolytic balance, for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of deviations from normal cell-cell communication in the skin (e.g. intercellular communication via mediators and / or via mechanical / physiological connections). Also according to the invention is the use of such preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional disorders of the skin appendages (for example hair loss, improved hair growth, improved hair gloss, improved hair structure, seborrheic symptoms, oily skin, oily hair, comedones, but also dandruff).

Preparations and uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that coenzyme Q10 is contained as bioquinone.

Preparations and uses according to the invention are particularly preferably characterized in that coenzyme Q10 and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same are contained in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.001-30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight based on the total weight of the preparations and the content of creatinine and / or its derivatives 0.001-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight and the content of creatine and its derivatives 0.001-50% by weight , preferably 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Creatinine (from Greek: τo Kpε ς = "the meat") is characterized by the following structure

and arises in the organism from non-enzymatic conversion from creatine or

Creatine phosphate according to

and is excreted via the kidney. The amount of creatinine excretion is proportional to the muscle mass and almost constant for the individual. Creatinine is contained in meat extract and bouillon cubes.

Creatine (also from Greek: τo Kpεας = "the meat") is characterized by the following structure:

It is found in the vertebrate muscle juice to 0.05-0.4%, in small amounts also in the brain and blood. As a monohydrate, it is a colorless, crystalline powder. Creatinine is formed in aqueous solution. It arises in the organism through transamidation of L-arginine on glycine to guanidinoacetic acid and its subsequent methylation using S-adenosylmethionine (through guanidinoacetate methyltransferase). Creatine is thought to be an appetite-enhancing component of beef and meat extract. Adding creatine to food increases physical performance.

It is preferably advantageous to choose the weight ratio of creatinine to creatine in the range from 50: 1 to 1:50, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The preferred derivative is creatine phosphate, which has the following structure:

and which is widespread in fresh muscle and plays an important role there as energy-storing phosphate (phosphagen). Creatine phosphate is present in the working muscle Adenosine 5'-diphosphate under the influence of the enzyme creatine kinase adenosine 5'-triphosphate (ATP) and creatine; the reverse reaction takes place in the resting muscle. But also creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols lead to advantageous embodiments of the invention.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and make the most widespread u. thus the best studied bio-quinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C atoms as U-5, U- 10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms u. Yeast with n = 6. Q-10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q-10, for example, is characterized by the following structural formula:

Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they enable the cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle. Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in the cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, whereby they reversibly change into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Cosmetic preparations with coenzyme Q-10 from DE-A-33 09 850 are known which are used for the treatment of skin diseases, for the prophylaxis of dystrophic and dysmabolic conditions of the skin and for use in the case of chemical and physical respiratory damage or in the case of delayed respiration Age and wear are suitable.

The suitability of coenzyme Q-10 for cosmetics is described in Japanese laid-open publication 58, 180, 410. It is said to activate skin cell metabolism and suppress oxidation. As a result, coenzyme Q10 has an important function in the prevention of skin damage from UV rays and the prevention of skin aging.

JP2000 / 247866 describes skin cosmetics with a content of creatine and / or creatinine, which can be used as a cream or as a milky lotion, the preparations in question being attributed excellent skin-care properties. However, this document could not pave the way for the present invention.

Furthermore, WO00 / 33787 describes the use of creatinine as an effective component of deodorants. This document also could not pave the way to the present invention.

Furthermore, EP-A 565 010 describes hair growth and hair dye preparations containing creatine phosphate. This document also could not pave the way to the present invention.

Finally, US-A 4,590,067 and EP-A-178 602 describe the use of creatine and creatinine for the preparation of preparations with anti-inflammatory activity. These writings were also unable to pave the way to the present invention.

When using the active ingredient combination or cosmetic Shear or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient combination according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages from signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, Age spots, telangiectasia) and / or the appendages of the skin, of environmental ones (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-related negative changes of the skin and appendages, of light-related skin damage from pigmentation disorders, itching, dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders , of hair loss and for improved hair growth of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo possible. The combination of active substances according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substance combination according to the invention also serves, surprisingly, to calm sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, in particular with deficient or hypoactive skin conditions. to increase cell renewal and regeneration of the skin to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (for example for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) for pre-treatment and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin. Effects according to the invention lie in the stabilization of the energy metabolism in the sense of a synergism between the components creatine, creatinine and coenzyme Q10 according to the invention in comparison to creatine and creatinine alone. The improved energy level of the skin cells can have a significantly better effect for prophylaxis and Treatment of degenerative skin and hair symptoms (wrinkles, sagging, degeneration, age spots, circulatory disorders, itching, sensitivity to stress, brittleness) can be achieved.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient combination or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combination used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

Preparations which contain the active compound combinations according to the invention and customary antioxidants can be used according to the invention.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), arthioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione , Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, pentathione, hexa-, imine) low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin , EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, taurine and derivatives, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate , Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzenic acid, noredihydroxychloric acid, nor- dihydric acid, trihydroxyhydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrohydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrohydrochloric acid, nor- dihydrochloric acid tri- and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active substance combinations used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substance combination used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active substance used according to the invention or the cosmetic ones or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient combination used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible and advantageous to insert the active ingredient combination used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning and also care of the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products (e.g. cosmetics ordinance, food and drug law).

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient combination used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to add the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

If appropriate, cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active ingredient combination used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, day creams are usually UV-A or UV-B Filter substances incorporated.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA film according to the invention. ters with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention, which also contains a UVB filter.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Pigments based on titanium dioxide are particularly preferred. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations can be used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

Water or aqueous solutions

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably Ri- zinusöl;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably

Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower C- alkanoic acids

Number or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably

Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar

Products.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents. The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the sense of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyluryl, 2-ethylhexyl palylate, Octyldodecyl palmitate, olefin oleate, olefin erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, Palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl advantageous Octyldo- decanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ ι ₅ -alkyl, Ca Pryl-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of Cι _2- i5 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of Cι _2-15 alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Cι _2- i5 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous. Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicon oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols low Riger C number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose , particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Gels used in the present invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels, and is preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Fixed pens contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.

Usual base materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, ceresin and microcrystallines) Waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax)

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons ( CFC). Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used therefor, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations according to the invention are listed below by way of example, all of which generate the described advantages of high and long-lasting skin moisture retention.

1. PIT emulsions

2. Examples of O / W cream

3. Examples of O / W cream

4. Examples of W / O emulsions

5. Examples of W / O emulsions

6. Examples of hydrodispersions

7th example (gel cream)

Example 8 (W / O cream)

Example 9 (W / O / W cream)

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing an active ingredient combination of creatinine and / or its derivatives with creatine and / or its derivatives and bioquinones as well as vegetable and animal extracts containing the same.

2. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined and dry skin, in particular atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders, itching, sensitive or irritated skin , light-related skin damage and UV-induced immunosuppression, changes in desquamation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation deficit, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of the skin appendages to reduce skin attachments.

3. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, for. B. degenerative symptoms of the skin, in particular age spots, wrinkles, telangiectasias, sagging skin, loss of elasticity, as well as loss of the epidermal and dermal cell layers, the components of the connective tissue, the rete cones and capillary vessels), so-called skin luster and fatigue (skin sagging and / or skin fatigue), increased Activation of proteolytic enzymes in the skin (such as metalloproteinases), disorders of normal collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and glycosaminoglycan homeostasis and normal skin regeneration, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation , Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis (especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions), environmental (caused by smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals and the like) negative changes in the skin and / or the skin appendages image).

4. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders, for increasing ceramide biosynthesis (such as changes in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin), for strengthening the barrier function of the skin (such as Horny layer barrier disorders, changes in normal lipid peroxidation, changes in transepider- mal water loss and the normal moisture content of the skin), for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of disorders of the normal skin pH value and the osmolyte balance, for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of deviations from the normal cell-cell communication in the skin (e.g. intercellular communication via mediators and / or via mechanical / physiological connections).

5. Use of preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional disorders of the skin appendages, in particular hair loss, for improving hair growth, for improving hair shine, for improving hair structure, against seborrheic phenomena, against oily skin, against oily hair, against comedones, against dandruff.

6. Preparations according to claim 1 and use according to claims 2 to 5, characterized in that coenzyme Q10 is contained as bioquinone.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 1 and use according to claims 2 to 6, characterized in that coenzyme Q10 and plant and animal extracts containing the same in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.001-30% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 01-1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, and the content of creatinine and / or its derivatives 0.001-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight and the content of creatine and whose derivatives is 0.001-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.