DE10355717A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological formulation for treatment and prophylaxis of e.g. ultraviolet and ozone-damaged, inflamed and dry skin, has aqueous phase containing creatine, creatinine and/or derivative in given ratio to water activity - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological formulation has aqueous phase containing creatine and/or creatinine and/or creatine derivative(s) selected from the phosphate, sulfate, acetate, ascorbate and derivatives in which the carboxyl group is esterified with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols. The ratio Q of [water concentration times water activity] to the total concentration of creatine, creatinine and derivatives (measured in same units, e.g. wt.%) is 40 or more.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing creatine and / or creatine derivatives for treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV and ozone induced skin damage, by inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions as well as dry skin.

Under Cosmetic skincare is first and foremost to understand that natural Function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (for example dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g. natural Fats, electrolytes) or restored.

Becomes this function disturbed, it can be overpowered Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or infestation of Microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

aim It is also the skin care that is caused by daily washing To compensate for fat and water loss of the skin. This is straight then important if the natural regenerative capacity not enough. Furthermore should skin care products against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, protect and delay skin aging.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z.B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is caused eg by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis, aging causes, for example, the following structural damage and dysfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) diminished fatty tissue suppression through sebaceous glands (eg after washing).

• d) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• e) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• f) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z.B. Altersflecken) und
• g) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Streß (z.B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can be cumulatively effective and, for example, accelerate or supplement endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, the following structural and functional disorders in the skin occur, in particular due to exogenous factors, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging:

• d) Visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);
• e) slackness and formation of wrinkles;
• f) local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentation (eg age spots) and
• g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

The The present invention particularly relates to care products the natural one Way of aging skin, as well as to treat the sequelae of Photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products For the care of aged skin are known. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or their derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on the structural damage is but limited in scope. Daüber There are also significant difficulties in product development, the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative decay to stabilize. The use of vitamin A acid-containing products conditioned about that In addition, often strong erythematous Skin irritation. Retinoids are therefore only in low concentrations used.

Especially The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful Oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic Preparations themselves or to protect the ingredients of cosmetic Preparations against harmful Oxidation processes.

The damaging Effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While Beams with one wavelength, which is less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), from the Ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere be absorbed, causing rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple Sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

When a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the tighter Range indicated around 308 nm.

To the Protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, the cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the Range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important Filter substances available to have since its rays cause reactions in photosensitive skin can. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads, causing the skin prematurely age, and that they are the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic Reactions can be seen. The injurious Influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

To the Protection against the rays of the UVA range therefore become certain Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane used whose photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), is not given sufficiently is.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, wherein then the photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism intervention.

mainly are such photochemical reaction products to radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Also undefined radical photoproducts which are present in the skin itself can arise because of their high reactivity uncontrolled follow-up reactions to the day. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur in UV irradiation, as are short-lived epoxides and many other. Singlet oxygen, for example, stands out over the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity out. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

Further counts UV radiation to ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that too ionic species are formed on exposure to UV, which then in turn oxidative in the biochemical processes are able to intervene.

Around to prevent these reactions the cosmetic or dermatological formulations additional Antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

Mainly Antioxidants as protective substances against the spoilage of preparations containing them uses. Nevertheless, it is known that in human and also animal skin unwanted Oxidation processes can occur. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

in the Essay "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury "in" Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", p. 323 et seq. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jür gen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), become oxidative damage the skin and its closer Causes listed.

Also For the reason, to prevent such reactions can be cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

Though Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. That's already in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, as well as numerous others other documents have been proposed, vitamin E, a substance with known antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations nevertheless, the effect achieved here remains wide behind the hoped-for back.

The beneficial prophylactic and therapeutic effect of creatine in cosmetic and medical skin care is known per se. Creatine (from Greek: τo κρες = "the flesh") is characterized by the following structure:

It is found in muscle tissue of vertebrates to 0.05-0.4%, in low Quantities also in the brain and blood. As a monohydrate, it turns a colorless, crystalline powder. In aqueous solution Creatinine is formed in an intramolecular cyclization. In the organism it is formed by transamidination of L-arginine Glycine to guanidinoacetic acid and their subsequent Methylation by S-adenosylmethionine (by guanidinoacetate methyltransferase). Man holds Creatine for an appetite-enhancing Ingredient of beef and meat extract. Creatine supplement to Strengthened food the physical Performance.

extensive is the state of the art to the cosmetic and dermatological Uses of creatine.

That's how it describes DE 100 32 964 the use of creatine and / or creatine derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of UV- and / or ozone-induced skin damage as well as inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions.

The JP2000 / 247866 describes skin cosmetics containing creatine and / or creatinine, which as a cream or as a milky lotion can be used wherein the preparations in question excellent skin care properties be attributed.

Further WO 00/33787 describes the use of creatinine as effective Component of deodorants.

Farther EP-A 565 010 describes hair-growing and hair-dyeing preparations with a Content of creatinine phosphate.

Finally in US-A 4,590,067 and EP-A-178 602 the use of creatine or creatinine for the preparation of preparations with anti-inflammatory Effectiveness described.

adversely is, however, that creatine crystallizes easily in hydrous products, whereby crystals with uncosmetic appearance and the effectiveness of the product is reduced. An additional risk concerns the physical stability the emulsion, which tends to phase separate in the presence of crystals.

task The present invention thus seeks to find ways that the Avoid disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, should Effect of remedying the endogenous, chronological and exogenous Skin aging related damage and the prophylaxis lasting, sustainable and without the risk of Be side effects.

A Another task was a dosage form for creatine to find, characterized by diminished tendency to the formation of Kreatinkristallen distinguished.

The water activity represents a parameter to aqueous solutions and solids, especially food, in terms of availability of the water for to compare chemical, biochemical and microbial reactions.

The water activity is given as the a _w value and is defined as the quotient of the concentration of water in the vapor phase in the airspace above the material and the water concentration in the airspace above pure water at a certain temperature.

The water activity equals 1/100 of relative equilibrium moisture (RGF). The relationship between water content and water activity of a Systems is represented by its sorption isotherm.

p = Wasserdampfpartialdruck im Lebensmittel bei der Temperatur T
p₀ = Sättigungsdampfdruck des reinen Wassers bei der gegebenen Temperatur
RGF = relative Gleichgewichtsfeuchtigkeit bei gegebener Temperatur.The latter is defined by the following relationship:

p = partial pressure of water vapor in the food at the temperature T
p ₀ = saturation vapor pressure of pure water at the given temperature
RGF = relative equilibrium moisture at a given temperature.

Out The course of the sorption isotherm results in three areas of the Water binding: In the adsorption, the first covers the dry, inner surface monomolecular with water. Thereafter, this layer continues to coordinate Water molecules until a hydrate shell arises, which is not yet mobile and therefore not freeze can. At higher water activities condenses water increasingly in the capillaries.

Since the water requirement of the different organisms is well known, it is possible to derive an estimate of the shelf-life of food from the a _w value of a product (rule of thumb): foods with an a _w over 0.95 a few days, a _w around 0.85 up to two weeks, less than 0.75 one to two months, less than 0.65 one to two years and less than 0.60 indefinitely - although these values are for microbial spoilage only, and not for chemical or physicochemical changes.

Further An object of the present invention was to provide preparations which significantly improve the condition of the skin, in particular reduce the skin roughness.

• (a) Kreatin und/oder Kreatinin und/oder ein oder mehrere Kreatinderivate, gewählt aus der Gruppe Kreatinphosphat, Kreatinsulfat, Kreatinacetat, Kreatinascorbat und der an der Carboxylgruppe mit mono- oder polyfunktionalen Alkoholen veresterten Kreatinderivate,
• (b) wobei der Quotient Q
  
• (c) Σ [Kreatin, Kreatinin] die Summe der Konzentrationen aus Kreatin und/oder Kreatinin und/oder einem oder mehreren Kreatinderivaten, gewählt aus der Gruppe Kreatinphosphat, Kreatinsulfat, Kreatinacetat, Kreatinascorbat und der an der Carboxylgruppe mit mono- oder polyfunktionalen Alkoholen veresterten Kreatinderivate, in der Gesamtzubereitung,
• (d) [Wasser] die Konzentration des Wassers in der Gesamtzubereitung in gleichen Einheiten wie Σ [Kreatin, Kreatinin] (beispielsweise Massen-%)
• (e) und a_w die Aktivität des Wassers darstellt,

den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhilft.It has surprisingly been found, and therein is the solution of these objects that a cosmetic or dermatological preparation with at least one aqueous phase containing

• (a) creatine and / or creatinine and / or one or more creatine derivatives selected from the group consisting of creatine phosphate, creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the creatine derivatives esterified at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols,
• (b) where the quotient Q
  
• (c) Σ [creatine, creatinine] the sum of creatine and / or creatinine and / or one or more creatine derivatives selected from the group of creatine phosphate, creatine sulphate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the esterified at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Creatine derivatives, in the overall preparation,
• (d) [water] the concentration of water in the total preparation in equal units as Σ [creatine, creatinine] (for example mass%)
• (e) and a _{w represents} the activity of the water,

remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.

• – besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,
• – besser die Hautglättung fördern,
• – sich durch bessere Pflegewirkung auszeichnen,
• – besser den Anzeichen der Hautalterung entgegenwirken
• – besser gegen Hautfalten wirken
• – besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen
• – höhere Stabilität gegenüber Zerfall in Öl- und Wasserphasen aufweisen und
• – höhere Stabilität gegenüber Auskristallisieren des Kreatins aufweisen und
• – sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.It was therefore not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - better promote skin smoothing,
• - are characterized by a better care effect,
• - better counteract the signs of aging
• - work better against skin folds
• - better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and dermatological agents
• Have higher stability to decomposition in oil and water phases and
• - have higher stability towards crystallization of creatine and
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility

as the preparations of the prior art.

Prefers contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention 0,0001 - 10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, of creatine and / or Creatine derivatives, based on the total composition of the preparations.

Prefers contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention 0,0001 - 10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, of creatinine and / or Kreatininderivaten, based on the total composition of the preparations.

It is both advantageous to use creatine without the presence of creatinine and creatinine without the presence of creatine. It is particularly advantageous, however, both substances gleichzei in the active ingredient combinations and preparations according to the invention, in particular when the weight ratio of creatinine to creatine is in the range from 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 4: 1 to 3 to 7, very particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1 : 2 is selected.

It is advantageous, the water activity of the emulsion according to the invention in such a way that the quotient Q values are greater than 40, preferably greater than 80, more preferably between 100 and 300 or between 500 and 1000.

herangezogen werden. Hier steht

für die Stoffmenge (in mol) der in der Wasserphase vorliegenden Wassermoleküle und n_{gelöste Teilchen} für die Summe der Stoffmengen der in Wasser gelöst vorliegenden Substanzen wie Elektrolyte, wasserlösliche Polyole, Säuren, Basen usw...The adjustment of water activity is due to simple stoichiometric calculations known to those skilled in the art. For example, after EP 755674 to estimate the water activity during formulation planning the relationship

be used. It says

for the amount of substance (in moles) of the water molecules present in the water phase and n _{dissolved particles} for the sum of the quantities of substances dissolved in water such as electrolytes, water-soluble polyols, acids, bases, etc ...

Although the describes EP 755 674 in that a preparation containing polyols, which influences the water activity of the preparation, may increase the stability of ascorbic acid in this preparation. However, this document could not point the way to the present invention.

Advantageous may be used according to the invention Active ingredient to be incorporated into usual cosmetic and dermatological Preparations which may be in various forms. So can they e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid Pen or even an aerosol pose.

Inventive emulsions in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, of a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty bodies, and water and one or more emulsifiers, as is customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

It is possible, too and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the invention used Active ingredient in aqueous Systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and the Insert hair.

It is natural to the expert known that sophisticated cosmetic compositions mostly not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, Perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, Alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic effective substances, etc.

mutatis Mutandis are subject to appropriate formulation requirements medical preparations.

medical containing topical compositions within the meaning of the present invention usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Drug Act).

It is also advantageous, the inventively used Add active ingredient as an additive to preparations already other agents for contain other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible Lich and advantageous to use the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

Corresponding can cosmetic and / or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example be used as a skin care product, skin protection product, cleansing product, Sunscreen product, hair conditioner, body cleansing product, for the Day or night care, the care of certain skin areas such as hands, face, Feet etc.

Also is the use of the preparations according to the invention for prophylaxis and treatment of the symptoms of aging skin, to prevent and Reduction in the development and spread of wrinkles and Wrinkles and for the treatment and care of aged skin according to the invention.

Furthermore, the use of the preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and treatment of the symptoms of dry skin is preferred. Suitable active ingredients for this purpose are: natural oils (sunflower, evening primrose seed, jojoba, macadamia oil, castor oil), ceramides, in particular ceramide I, III and VI, cholesterol, phytosterols, fatty acids with a chain length of C _16-26 , carnitine and its derivatives, urea, polyols such as glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, pseudoceramides; Electrolytes such as sodium chloride and taurine, fatty alcohols and waxes.

Besides that is the use of the preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and treatment of the symptoms of sensitive or inflamed skin advantageous.

Besides that is the use of the preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and treatment of the symptoms of the mispigmented Skin beneficial. Preferred active ingredients for this purpose are: Tyrosinase inhibitors, hydroquinone derivatives, dioic acid, lipoic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid as well as kojic acid.

Not Last is the use of the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis, treatment and cleansing of oily skin as well as for Prophylaxis and treatment of impure skin and cellulite according to the invention.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

It is particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form that is superficial are treated water-repellent. This surface treatment can consist of that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic Layer be provided.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer according to a reaction according to n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface) is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

The cosmetic according to the invention and / or dermatological sunscreen formulations may be compounded as usual and cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

to Application are the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations in the for Cosmetics usual Applied to the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.

Especially preferred are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in the form of a sunscreen. Advantageous can this in addition at least one further UVA filter and / or at least one other UVB filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment, preferred an inorganic micropigment.

The cosmetic according to the invention and dermatological preparations may be cosmetic adjuncts contain as they usually do used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, Bactericides, perfumes, Substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the one coloring Have effect, thickener, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual ones Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

One additional Content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention may as cheap antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa). , Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, Bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), as well as benzoic acid coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, Ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and their derivatives, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable for this purpose (salts, Esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said active substances.

The Amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001 to 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Provided Vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the one or more antioxidants are advantageous, their respective Concentrations in the range of 0.001 - 10 wt.%, Based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – organische Carbonate (Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen)
• – Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, but preferably castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols len with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - organic carbonates (esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols)
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of Emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then chosen advantageous are from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Further can the oil phase chosen favorably are from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, Almond oil, Palm oil, Coconut oil, Palm kernel oil and more.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense of the present Use invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component the oil phase use.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

From The hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, squalane and squalene advantageous to be used in the sense of the present invention.

Advantageous can the oil phase also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or Completely from such oils although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

Advantageous Cyclomethicone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) is used as a silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But also other silicone oils are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use for example, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

• • der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• • der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• • der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• • der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• • der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• • der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• • der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• • der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• • der Cholesterinethoxylate
• • der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• • der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• • der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• • der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• • der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• • der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• • der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• • der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• • der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• • der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• • der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• • der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• • der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• • der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• • der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• • der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• • der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• • der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• • der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• • der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H,.

Preparations present as emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers. For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:

• • the fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• The ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• • the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• • the polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester
• • the ethoxylated sorbitan ester
• • the cholesterol ethoxylates
• • the ethoxylated triglycerides
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH nd n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• • the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• • the polypropylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester
• • the propoxylated sorbitan ester
• • cholesterol propoxylates
• • the propoxylated triglycerides
• • the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids based on these sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• • etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X -Y _m -R _'n,
• • the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

Particularly according to the invention The polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated used are advantageous or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values from 11 to 18, especially advantageous with HLB values of 14.5 to 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers saturated Radicals R and R 'have. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated Radicals R and / or R ', or are Isoalkylderivate, so the preferred HLB value such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether ( Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-17), Polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group: polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate

When ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt can be advantageously used the sodium laureth-11-carboxylate become.

When Alkyl ether sulfate can be advantageously used sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate become.

When Ethoxylated cholesterol derivative may advantageously be polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether be used. Also, polyethylene glycol (25) sojasterol has become proven.

When ethoxylated triglycerides can Advantageously, the Polyethylene Glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides is used become (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

Farther is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate to choose.

It is also cheap the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate; Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Select polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

When advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Monoglycerol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerol esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 - 18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms and saturated sorbitan esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms.

Especially advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, Glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, Sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid and its salts, formaldehyde donors (such as. For example, diazolidinyl urea (trade name Germall II (from ISP), imidazolidinyl urea trade name Germall 115), or DMDM hydantoin, which, for example, under the trade name Glydant ^® from available from the company Lonza), methylisothiazolinone and corresponding derivatives (trade name Kathon CG), iodopropylbutylcarbamates (eg those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from the company Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker) , Parabens (ie, p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, triclosan, benzoic acid, and the like. Usually this includes Preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preservatives, such as hexanediol, pentanediol, butylene glycol and methylpropanediol.

If appropriate, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or -monoethyl ether and analogous products, also low C-number alcohols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and in particular one or more gelling agents. Advantageous gelling agents for such formulations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 -alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen ^® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from. Goodrich (Noveon).

Also Carbopols are advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Advantageous Carbopols are for example the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Also the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide. Further advantageous gelling agent for such preparations are xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Cellulose derivatives, in particular cellulose ethers such as, for example Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, starch and Starch derivatives, hyaluronic acid Locust bean gum, silica, aluminum silicates.

The cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations advantageously inorganic pigments, in particular micropigments, e.g. in amounts of 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 1% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Accordingly contain the preparations for the purposes of the present invention preferably at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations can, although not necessary, optionally also one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which in the water and / or the oil phase may be present.

The preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously also in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological There are emulsions which have a water phase and at least one liquid at room temperature UV filter substance as another phase included.

Especially advantageous at room temperature liquid UV filter substances in For the purposes of the present invention, homomenthylsalicylate (INCI: Homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate (Isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (for example Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and also the barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ).

The Pigments can advantageous in the context of the present invention also in the form of a commercial available oily or aqueous Predispersions are used. These predispersions can be beneficial Dispersing aids and / or solubilization promoters added be.

The Pigments can According to the invention advantageous superficial be treated ("coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character formed should be or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The different surface coatings can be used in the According to the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silica (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

organic surface coatings For the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic Coating materials occur.

Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020th

• • Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• • 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol- 1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, from Trade name Eusolex 232 available from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo) bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene benzo-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic acid (CAS No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are further so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances containing both UV-A as well as absorb UV-B radiation.

• • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• • Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• • 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-Carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine), which available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH;
• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• • 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [ anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name Uvinul ^® T 150th

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Advantageous broadband filter according to the present invention is further the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisilo ^xan e, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl XL ^® from the company. Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water soluble be.

• • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• • sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.
• • 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan – Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol^® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the context of the present invention are, for. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• • as well as UV-bound polymers.
• • 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are z. B .:
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

Especially advantageous preparations according to the present invention, characterized by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection characterized, contain in addition to the or the filter substances according to the invention) further preferred further UV-A and / or Broadband filter, in particular Dibenzoylmethanderivate [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane), Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

The List of said UV filters, for the purposes of the present invention can be used Of course not limiting.

Advantageously, the preparations of the invention contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, before preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which provide the hair or the skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without restricting it. All Quantities, percentages and percentages are, unless otherwise stated indicated on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight the preparations.

Examples of O / W emulsions

Example 6: Hydrodispersion / gel cream

Examples W / O emulsions

Claims (11)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation with at least one aqueous phase containing (a) creatine and / or creatinine and / or one or more creatine derivatives selected from the group consisting of creatine phosphate, creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the creatine derivatives esterified at the carboxyl group with monofunctional or polyfunctional alcohols (b) where the quotient Q

(c) Σ [creatine, creatinine] the sum of the concentrations of creatine and / or creatinine and / or one or more creatine derivatives selected from the group consisting of creatine phosphate, creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the esterified at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Creatine derivatives, in the overall preparation is, (d) [water] the concentration of water in the total preparation in equal units such as Σ [creatine, creatinine] (for example mass%), (e) and a _{w represents} the activity of the water. A preparation according to claim 1, containing creatine and creatinine, the weight ratio of creatinine to creatine being in the range from 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 4: 1 to 3 to 7, very particular ders preferred 2: 1 to 1: 2 is selected. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that the quotient Q assumes values between 100 and 300. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that the quotient Q assumes values between 500 and 1000. A preparation according to claim 2, containing 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1 Wt .-%, of creatine and / or Kreatinderivaten, based on the total composition the preparation. A preparation according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 0.001 - 10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, of creatinine and / or Kreatininderivaten, based on the total composition of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that to adjust the water activity ethanol, Polyols (selected from glycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and Butylene glycol), mono- and polysaccharides, polyethylene glycols, water-soluble organic Sulfonic acids, carboxylic acids and phosphoric or their salts, inorganic salts and mixtures thereof become. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized that the preparation contains creatine or equivalent Contains derivatives in a concentration of 0.001-5%. Preparation according to claim 7, characterized the creatine content exceeds 0.001% by weight, based on the total preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the water content is 30% by weight based on the Total preparation exceeds. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water activity a _w at least one aqueous phase and / or the total preparation is between 0.8 and 0.98.