KR20010105124A - Cosmetic composition for dry skin of atopic dermatitis and recovery of disrupted skin barrier - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for improving the resilience of dry skin and damaged skin barrier of atopic dermatitis and a cosmetic comprising the same. More specifically, it contains soybean extract, trihydroxy palmitic acid of formula (I), and N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine of formula (II). The purpose of this study was to improve skin moisturizing effect, prevent drying effect, and recover skin barrier.

To this end, the present invention contains 400 parts by weight of soybean extract, 100 parts by weight of trihydroxy palmitic acid and 500 parts by weight of N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, which has excellent moisturizing effect and anti-drying effect on skin dryness of atopic dermatitis and skin barrier. It relates to a resilience improving composition of.

Description

{Cosmetic composition for dry skin of atopic dermatitis and recovery of disrupted skin barrier} which improves the dryness of atopic dermatitis and the resilience of damaged skin barriers

The present invention relates to a composition for improving the resilience of dry skin and damaged skin barrier of atopic dermatitis, and a cosmetic comprising the same. More specifically, 400 parts by weight of soybean extract and 100 parts by weight of trihydroxy palmitic acid of formula (I) and N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine of formula (II) The present invention relates to a composition containing 500 parts by weight, which improves the skin moisturizing effect and the anti-drying effect and the resilience of damaged skin barrier, which is excellent for skin dryness of atopic dermatitis.

(1) With atopic dermatitis.

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic relapsing eczema disease, the cause and pathogenesis of which are not clear. It is now understood that atopic dermatitis is mainly caused by a unique genetic predisposition, but its cause is not simple and is caused by a multi-factorial. Several external environmental factors that are involved in exacerbation of atopic dermatitis are well known, and the genetic predispositions present in patients with atopic dermatitis and their families, as well as their clinical and immunological forms, are currently weak. Immunological abnormalities due to genetic predisposition have been understood as the main etiology, and evidences suggest immunological abnormalities such as increased Ig E in blood, increased IL-4 and IL-5, and decreased INF-γ. However, the most clinically characteristic findings of dry skin and eczema are not explained as immunological abnormalities, and it is not clear whether they are genetic or secondary to atopic dermatitis.

(2) Abnormal findings of skin observed in atopic dermatitis.

The size of the stratum corneum cells is reduced.

-The moisture content in the stratum corneum is reduced.

-Water content in epidermis is low.

-The natural moisturizing factor is reduced.

-Transepidermal water loss is increased.

The amount of lipids in the stratum corneum is reduced. In particular, the ceramide amount is reduced due to disorders of ceramide synthesis.

-Abnormalities in lipid metabolism in the epidermis.

Lamellar bodies are increased but secretion is impaired.

(3) why dry skin is a problem in atopic dermatitis

Since atopic dermatitis is chronically dry, eczema is easily induced by various stimuli, severe pruritus, and recurring recurrence. These pruritus and eczema are repeatedly exacerbated by dry skin and, if not properly managed, eventually progress to subacute and chronic lesions such as thyroiditis, pigment change, and erythematosis. Superficial folliculitis, phytillofoscle folliculitis, epidemics, superficial dermatitis, warts, and recurrent herpes simplex are common with immunological abnormalities. Bacterial infections are usually caused by coagulase-positive Staphylococcus aureus, and appear mainly as folliculitis lesions with superficial pruritus on the arms and legs, and are not accompanied by deep tissue abscesses and cellulitis, but are accompanied by severe recurrent annular eczema lesions. The case may cause recurrent cellulitis with systemic symptoms. Therefore, the use of a moisturizer to improve the skin dryness of atopic dermatitis and the increase of resilience of skin barrier function occupy an important position in the treatment of atopic dermatitis.

(4) Why physiological lipid combinations are important for dry skin of atopic dermatitis

As described above, the amount of lipids in the stratum corneum is reduced with abnormalities of lipid metabolism in the epidermis. In particular, ceramide-containing disorders are reduced in the amount of ceramide. Non-physiological lipids, such as waselin and mineral oil, remain in the stratum corneum primarily after skin barrier injuries to act as skin barriers, whereas physiological lipids, such as ceramide, penetrate into the epidermis and enter the keratinocytes through intracellular incorporation. It is known to help the recovery. Therefore, rather than physiological lipid mixtures such as sphingolipids (ceramides) contained in the formulation, rather than non-physiological lipids such as waselin and mineral oil and commercially used simple moisturizing ingredients, dry skin due to increased moisturizing ability in atopic dermatitis As well as improvement, it plays an important role in the recovery of skin barrier function in skin barrier damage diseases.

(5) skin barrier and calcium ion

The skin barrier is present in the stratum corneum of the epidermis, which functions as a barrier that inhibits the loss of moisture and electrolytes out of the skin, thus preventing the epidermis from drying and providing an environment for normal biochemical metabolism of the epidermis. It protects the human body from external physical damage and chemicals and prevents bacteria, fungi and viruses from invading the skin. Irritant dermatitis or allergic dermatitis among skin diseases is known as acute skin barrier damage disease, and diseases such as atopic dermatitis, young glands and psoriasis are known as chronic skin barrier damage diseases. Normally, the epidermis has a calcium gradient, so the concentration of calcium ions is low in the basal layer and the pole layer and increases toward the upper layer, which is highest in the outer granule layer (see FIG. 2). Damage to the skin barrier leads to water loss from the top of the skin, which in turn causes changes in the calcium gradient in the epidermis. This change in calcium gradient causes homeostatic responsiveness in the skin, and then the skin barrier function quickly recovers. After the skin barrier is restored, it forms a normal form of calcium gradient. In other words, the change of calcium ion plays an important role as a signal to start the process of recovery after skin barrier damage.

Until now, alban moisturizers have been used to alleviate dry skin observed in atopic dermatitis, but the effect was temporary due to increased moisture by the applied moisturizing ingredients, and it was not effective in improving the resilience of skin barrier function. .

The present invention further improves the supply and loss prevention effect of skin moisture by the conventional skin moisturizing agent technology under the concept of excellent moisturizing effect and anti-drying effect on skin dryness in atopic dermatitis, and improvement of skin barrier recovery from atopic dermatitis. It is an object of the present invention to provide a mixture of active ingredients that are effective for improving the skin barrier resilience. In order to achieve this purpose, it is reduced in the skin of soybean extract with excellent skin moisturizing ability, trihydroxy palmitic acid with skin barrier strengthening ability, and atopic dermatitis patients and with excellent physiological lipids to prevent water loss. When the stearoyl-phytosphingosine mixture is used in combination, the present invention has been found to enhance the moisturizing effect and prevent drying, as well as to increase the recovery ability of the skin barrier.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a composition having a moisturizing ability and an anti-drying effect and a resilience effect of a damaged skin barrier and a cosmetic comprising the same for skin dryness in atopic dermatitis.

1 is a diagram of the effect of inhibiting hyperkeratosis in hairless mice to determine the embodiment of FIG.

Figure 2 is, after atopic pibuyeomreul cream ointment is applied to the target for people to have real time is it 44 weeks passed, the epidermis calcium ion distribution in order to confirm the improved resilience effect of the damaged skin barrier of atopic dermatitis according to the composition of the invention For electron micrographs.

In order to achieve the above object, the composition for improving the dry skin of atopic dermatitis and the recovery of damaged skin barrier according to the present invention, and a cosmetic comprising the same, soybean extract 400 parts by weight and trihydroxypalmitic acid of the following structural formula (trihydroxypalmitic acid) acid) 100 parts by weight and N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (500 parts by weight) of the following structural formula.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The composition of the present invention contains 400 parts by weight soybean extract. Soybean extract of the present invention, the fruit of legume legumenosa seeds (Leguminosae Seeds), soybeans Glycine max, glycine hispida, glycerin, 1.3- butylene glycol, furophilene glycol Extracted by soybean extract almost eliminated phenolic substances. Soybean extract may be prepared by the following method. Dried soybeans are ground to make a soybean pulp, followed by extracting hydrocarbons and fats together and filtering to obtain defatted soybean pulp. Again, this is dried, acid extracted and centrifuged to obtain a soybean extract. After concentrating by vacuum distillation (ammonium sulfate fractionation) after the concentration (vamonum distillation) to obtain an active fraction (Active fraction). Soybean extract can be obtained by dissolution, dialysis, and filtration.

The composition of the present invention contains 100 parts by weight of trihydroxypalmitic acid represented by the following structural formula.

The molecular weight is 304 and is also referred to as 9,10,16-trihydroxyhexadecanoic acid and aleuritic acid.

The composition of the present invention contains 500 parts by weight of N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine represented by the following structural formula.

Molecular weight is 584.0, N-Octadecanoyl-phytospingosine, N-Stearoyl-4D-hydroxysphinganine or (2S, It is also called 3S, 4R) -2-stearoylamido-1,3,4-octadecanetriol ((2S, 3S, 4R) -2-Stearoylamido-1,3,4-octadecanetriol).

The composition for improving skin dryness of atopic dermatitis of the present invention and for improving skin barrier resilience in damaged skin barrier diseases such as atopic dermatitis, irritant dermatitis or allergic dermatitis, young line, psoriasis is not particularly limited in the formulation. For example, it may be a cosmetic composition having a flexible cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, massage cream, nutrition cream, pack, gel or adhesive type formulation. In addition, in the external composition of each formulation, other than 400 parts by weight of soybean extract, 100 parts by weight of trihydroxy palmitic acid and 100 parts by weight of N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, The components may be appropriately selected and blended by the inventor without difficulty according to the formulation or purpose of use of other cosmetic compositions.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following Examples.

<Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and Examples 1 to 4>

Components 17 and 12, 13, 14 were mixed and the temperature was adjusted to 70 ° C (sample 1). The components 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 were mixed, and the components 10,11 were mixed in Comparative Examples 2-3 and Example of Table 1 to adjust the temperature to 70 ° C (Sample 2 ). Sample 2 was added to Sample 1, emulsified at 3600 rpm / 3 minutes, the temperature was lowered to 50 ° C. with cooling water, and in the case of Comparative Example 4 and Example, only Component 15 was added and stirred well, followed by 30 ° C. Cooled to. The component ratios of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and Examples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 1.

<Test Example 1> Recovery test effect after skin barrier damage in hairless mice

Acetone was applied as a method of skin barrier damage. When transepidermal water loss (TEWL) reaches 4.0 g / m ² / h by dropping acetone into the embryos of 8-12 week old hairless mice, apply the sample containing the composition of Table 1 to an area of 5 cm ² . It was. TEWL is Tewameter, an evaporimeter from CK (Courage + Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) Was measured. After 6 hours of application, TEWL was measured to evaluate the extent to which TEWL was reduced to evaluate the extent to which skin barrier function was restored. Calculation of the recovery rate used for the efficacy evaluation was calculated as in the following equation 1 and the results are shown in Table 2.

[Equation 1]

Br (Barrier Recovery) = (1-(B _{t = 6} -B _{t = 0} ) / (B _{t = d} -B _{t = 0} )) * 100

B _{t = 6} : TEWL measured 6 hours after skin barrier injury

B _{t = 0} : TEWL measurement before skin barrier injury

B _{t = d} : TEWL measured immediately after skin barrier injury

<Experiment Result>

Looking at the results of Table 2, when each component is used as an active ingredient (Comparative Examples 2, 3, 4), when these components are mixed (Examples 1, 2, 3, 4) recovery after skin barrier damage The effect was shown to rise.

Experimental Example 2 Inhibitory Effect of Hyperkeratosis in Hairless Mice

100 μl of oleic acid was applied once a day to induce skin irritation and hyperkeratosis in 8-12 week old hairless mice. The control group was applied only oleic acid for 7 days. After applying the oleic acid for 7 days, the test group applied 100 μl of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and Examples 1 to 4 for 7 days. After 7 days from the start of the test, the outermost stratum corneum was separated by D-squame tape from the embryos of hairless mice. The amount of keratin was quantified to assess the degree of hyperkeratosis. The hyperkeratosis inhibition rate used in the efficacy evaluation was calculated as shown in Equation 2 as a relative amount with the amount of keratin produced by oleic acid as 100 after calculating each keratin amount and the results are shown in FIGS. 1 and 3.

[Equation 2]

Stratum Corneum = Sn * Sa

Sn: number of keratin per unit area

Sa: average area of individual keratin

Hyperkeratosis inhibition rate = (1-(Si / So)) * 100

Si: keratin amount of each test group

So: keratin amount by applying oleic acid

<Experiment Result>

Looking at the results of Table 3, the effect of inhibiting hyperkeratosis is increased when these components are mixed (Examples 1, 2, 3, 4) than when each component is used as an active ingredient (Comparative Examples 2, 3, 4). Appeared to be.

Test Example 3 Measurement of Skin Moisturizing Power by Human Experiment

The skin moisturizing power was compared with respect to the cosmetic prepared by Table 1 above. Skin moisturizing ability was measured in 10 normal 20 to 30 adults. The test method is as follows. The skin conductivity was measured by using a corneometer (CM820 Courage + Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) under constant temperature and humidity conditions (24 ℃, 40% humidity) before starting the application using the forearm part of the subject as the test site. 9 sites were arbitrarily selected, and after application of uncoated sites, Comparative Examples 1 to 4, and Examples 1 to 4, the change in skin conductivity after 2, 4, and 8 hours was measured to determine the skin moisturizing effect. The moisture content changed from the initial value was calculated as shown in Equation 3, and the results are shown in Table 4.

[Equation 3]

Moisture growth rate M (Moisturization) = ((M _{t = i} -M _{t = 0} ) / M _{t = 0} ) * 100

M _{t = i} : Moisture content measured at t = i hours

M _{t = 0} : Moisture measured immediately before the start of the test at the unapplied area (t = 0)

<Experiment Result>

As shown in Table 4, in the case of the mixed composition of Example 4 in increasing skin moisture, the effect was found to increase most.

Experimental Example 4 Determination of Arid Dermatitis Improvement of Skin Dryness and Damage to Damaged Skin Barrier

For the cosmetics prepared in Example 4 and Comparative Example 1 of Table 1, 20 test subjects with atopic dermatitis were measured to improve skin dryness and recovery of damaged skin barrier. The test method is as follows.

Subjects were randomly divided into two sets, each of which was given Example 4 and Comparative Example 4, and applied to dry areas (limbs or face) twice a day for one month. The skin conductivity was measured at the test site before and after 4 weeks of application, and 5 sites were selected before and after application to measure the change in skin conductivity, and the effect of improving the dry skin of the sample was evaluated and the results are shown in Table 5. The effect of improving skin dryness was calculated using the moisture content change of Equation 4. In addition, the biopsy was performed before the start of the test and 4 weeks after application, and the change in the distribution of calcium ions was observed by electron microscopy. In addition, the outermost stratum corneum was separated by D-squame tape from the dry area before and after the test start, and the D-squame was saved with a CCD camera, and the amount of keratin on the tape was quantified by BMI's Image analyzer program BMI. The efficacy was evaluated by comparing the amount of keratin before and after use. The hyperkeratosis inhibition rate used for the evaluation is shown in Equation 5 and Table 6.

[Equation 4]

Skin dryness improvement effect = ((M _a -M _n ) / M _n ) * 100

M _a : Moisture content measured at the application site after 4 weeks of material application

M _n : Moisture content measured at the uncoated area after 4 weeks of material application

2

[Equation 5]

Stratum Corneum = Sn * Sa

Sn: number of keratin per unit area

Sa: average area of individual keratin

Hyperkeratosis Inhibition Rate = (1-(Ai / Ao)) * 100

Ai: keratin quantity of each test group

Ao: Initial keratin volume when no material is applied

<Experiment Result>

In Table 5, it can be seen that the application of the mixed composition of Example 4 is excellent in the effect of improving dry skin in dry skin of atopic dermatitis. In FIG. 2, abnormalities can be observed in the distribution of calcium ions in the dry skin of atopic dermatitis, and the distribution of calcium ions is restored to the normal calcium gradient by application of the mixed composition of Example 4. It can be seen that the mixed composition is excellent in improving skin barrier recovery ability. In addition, in Table 6, the mixed composition of Example 4 was found to have an excellent inhibitory effect on the hyperkeratosis in skin dryness.

As described above, the cosmetic composition provided by the present invention is mixed soy extract, trihydroxy palmitic acid (formula I) and N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (formula II) by weight 4: 1: 5 It can be seen that the synergistic effect is used to improve the dry skin of atopic dermatitis and to recover the damage of the damaged skin barrier than when used alone or two other compounds.

Claims (1)

Atopic dermatitis containing soy extract, trihydroxypalmitic acid of formula (I) and N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (Structural Formula (II)) in a weight part 4: 1: 5 A composition showing a synergistic effect in improving the dry skin of the skin and promoting the resilience of damaged skin barriers.