JPWO2017057676A1 - 日焼け止め化粧料 - Google Patents
日焼け止め化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JPWO2017057676A1 JPWO2017057676A1 JP2017543615A JP2017543615A JPWO2017057676A1 JP WO2017057676 A1 JPWO2017057676 A1 JP WO2017057676A1 JP 2017543615 A JP2017543615 A JP 2017543615A JP 2017543615 A JP2017543615 A JP 2017543615A JP WO2017057676 A1 JPWO2017057676 A1 JP WO2017057676A1
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- derivatives
- sunscreen
- oil
- butyl
- methoxydibenzoylmethane
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 67
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 48
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 48
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- XNEFYCZVKIDDMS-UHFFFAOYSA-N avobenzone Chemical compound C1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)CC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(C)(C)C)C=C1 XNEFYCZVKIDDMS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 229960001679 octinoxate Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 238000001782 photodegradation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl(dioctadecyl)azanium Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001983 dialkylethers Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N (2z)-2-benzylidene-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-3-one Chemical class CC1(C)C2CCC1(C)C(=O)\C2=C/C1=CC=CC=C1 OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- DWYHDSLIWMUSOO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenyl-1h-benzimidazole Chemical class C1=CC=CC=C1C1=NC2=CC=CC=C2N1 DWYHDSLIWMUSOO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminobenzoic acid Chemical class NC1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BVNWQSXXRMNYKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-phenyl-2h-benzotriazole Chemical class C1=CC=CC=C1C1=CC=CC2=C1NN=N2 BVNWQSXXRMNYKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000005427 anthranyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000008366 benzophenones Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004305 biphenyl Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002462 imidazolines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000005702 oxyalkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000006353 oxyethylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940083254 peripheral vasodilators imidazoline derivative Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
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- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 17
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- NZZIMKJIVMHWJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibenzoylmethane Chemical class C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)CC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 NZZIMKJIVMHWJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2,3-difluorophenyl)ethanone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=CC(F)=C1F PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 229940047670 sodium acrylate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- GYDJEQRTZSCIOI-LJGSYFOKSA-N tranexamic acid Chemical compound NC[C@H]1CC[C@H](C(O)=O)CC1 GYDJEQRTZSCIOI-LJGSYFOKSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
Description
特許文献2には、トリス(ポリプロピレングリコール−3ベンジルエーテル)クエン酸を配合することにより4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン及びメトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシルの光劣化が抑制されたことが開示されているが、両方の紫外線吸収剤を含む日焼け止め化粧料における効果は確認されていない。
(a)0.5〜5.0質量%の4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン;
(b)3〜10質量%のメトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシル;
(c)5.0質量%以上の両親媒性物質;及び
(d)IOB=0.05〜0.60のエステル油を含有する油分、
を含み、
前記成分(a)、(b)及び(c)の配合量が以下の関係:
[(a)+(b)]/(c)=0.5〜3.5
を満たすことを特徴とする日焼け止め化粧料を提供する。
4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタンは、UVA領域に最大吸収波長を持つベンゾフェノン系紫外線吸収剤の一種であり、従来から化粧料等に広く用いられている。
本発明で用いられる4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタンは市販品でもよく、例えば、「パルソール1789」の名称でDSMニュートリションジャパン株式会社から市販されているものを例示することができる。
メトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシルはUVB領域に最大吸収波長を持つケイ皮酸系紫外線吸収剤の一種である。本発明で用いられるメトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシルは市販品でもよく、例えば、「パルソールMCX」の名称でDSMニュートリションジャパン株式会社から市販されているものを例示することができる。
本発明で用いられる両親媒性物質(成分(c))は、アルキレンオキシド誘導体及び多価アルコール誘導体から選択される1種又は2種以上である。
R1O−[(AO)m(EO)n]−R2 (I)
上記式(I)中、AOは炭素原子数3〜4のオキシアルキレン基を示す。具体的にはオキシプロピレン基、オキシブチレン基、オキシイソブチレン基、オキシトリメチレン基、オキシテトラメチン基等が挙げられる。好ましくはオキシプロピレン基、オキシブチレン基が挙げられる。EOはオキシエチレン基を示す。
mはAOの平均付加モル数であり、1≦m≦70、好ましくは2≦m≦20である。nはEOの平均付加モル数であり、1≦n≦70、好ましくは2≦n≦20である。
前記式(I)で表されるポリオキシアルキレン・ポリオキシエチレン共重合体ジアルキルエーテルの分子量は、約500〜5000のものが好ましく用いられる。一分子中のAOとEOの合計に対するEOの割合[EO/(AO+EO)]は、20〜80質量%であることが好ましい。
一分子中のR1及びR2は、それぞれ同一の1種の炭化水素基であってもよく、炭化水素基と水素原子とが混在してもよく、炭素原子数が異なる複数の炭化水素基が混在していてもよい。ただし、R1及びR2の各々について、炭化水素基と水素原子との存在割合は、炭化水素基の数(X)に対する水素原子の数(Y)の割合(Y/X)が0.15以下であるのが好ましく、より好ましくは0.06以下である。
POP(2)POE(9)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(4)POE(17)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(7)POE(14)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(9)POE(11)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(28)POE(55)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(41)POE(36)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(6)POE(3)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(3)POE(6)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(4)POE(8)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(11)POE(6)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
POP(27)POE(14)ジメチルエーテル(ランダム共重合体)
本発明の日焼け止め化粧料においては、前記(a)4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン、(b)メトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシル、及び(c)両親媒性物質の配合量が次の関係:[(a)+(b)]/(c)=0.5〜3.5を満たしていることを特徴とする。配合量比率([(a)+(b)]/(c))は、好ましくは1.0〜3.0、より好ましくは1.0〜2.5である。この比率が3.5を超えると、紫外線吸収剤の光劣化を十分に抑制できない場合があり、0.5未満であると化粧料の乳化安定性もしくは保存性が劣化する傾向がある。
本発明の日焼け止め化粧料に配合される液状油分(成分(d))は、IOB=0.05〜0.60のエステル油を含有する常温で液状の油分である。当該エステル油のIOB値は、好ましくは0.07〜0.55、より好ましくは0.1〜0.5の範囲内である。
なお、本発明における「エステル油のIOB値(Inorganic/Organic Balance Value)」は、化粧料に配合されている各エステル油のIOB値に、全てのエステル油の合計配合量に対する各エステル油の配合量の比率を乗じた値を、全てのエステル油について合算した値と定義する。従って、化粧料が1種類のエステル油のみを含有する場合、当該化粧料におけるエステル油のIOB値は当該エステル油固有のIOB値に一致することになる。
エステル油は、一種又は二種以上を組み合わせて配合することが可能である。例えば、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル(IOB=0.4)と2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル(IOB=0.13)とを1:1の比率で組み合わせたエステル油を用いる場合、当該エステル油のIOB値は、[0.4×1/2]+[0.13×1/2]=0.265となり、本発明の条件を満たす。
本発明で用いられる紫外線散乱剤は、化粧料の分野で紫外線散乱剤として用いられている粉体であれば特に限定されない。具体例としては、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、硫酸バリウム、酸化鉄、タルク、マイカ、セリサイト、カオリン、雲母チタン、紺青、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、シリカ、酸化セリウム等から選択される1種又は2種以上が挙げられる。特に、1.5以上の屈折率を有する粉体、例えば酸化亜鉛、酸化チタンを用いるのが光学的特性から好ましい。
表面処理の方法としては、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン、メチルポリシロキサン等のシリコーン処理;アルキルシラン処理;パーフルオロアルキルリン酸エステル、パーフルオロアルコール等によるフッ素処理;N−アシルグルタミン酸等によるアミノ酸処理;その他、レシチン処理;金属石鹸処理;脂肪酸処理;アルキルリン酸エステル処理等が挙げられる。
なお、本発明における平均一次粒子径とは、例えば、透過電子顕微鏡写真から、粒子の長軸の長さと短軸の長さの相加平均として求められる値である。
紫外線散乱剤の粒子形状は特に限定されるものでなく、一次粒子の状態であっても、凝集した二次集合体を形成したものでもよい。また球状、楕円形状、破砕状等の形状の別も特に限定されるものでない。
他の任意成分としては、水溶性高分子、油溶性高分子、ロウ類等の固形油分、低級アルコール、保湿成分、界面活性剤、粉末成分、薬剤等が挙げられるが、これらの例示に限定されるものではない。
保湿成分としては、エチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ポリブチレングリコールなどの多価アルコール等が例示される。
粉末成分としては、ナイロンやアクリル系のポリマー球状粉末、シリカ粉末、シリコーン粉末、金属を含まない表面処理剤で表面処理された金属酸化物粉末等が例示される。
(1−1)下記表1及び表2に示す組成で油中水型乳化日焼け止め化粧料の試料を調製した。具体的には、油性成分を混合し、粘土鉱物(ジメチルジステアルアンモニウムヘクトライト)を分散させ、別途混合した水性成分を添加してホモミキサーで乳化処理を行った。
各例の試料をPMMA基板にサンプルを塗布し、500−280nmの吸光度を測定した。その基板にサンテスト試験機でUVを2時間照射した後、同様に吸光度を測定し、照射前後の前記波長領域における吸光度積算値の変化(光照射後の紫外線吸収能の残存率)を次式に従って算出した。
光照射後の残存率(%)=(光照射後の吸光度積算値)/(光照射前の吸光度積算値)×100
各例における光照射後の残存率(%)の値を表2に併せて示す。
下記表8及び表9に示す組成で水中油型乳化日焼け止め化粧料の試料を調製した。具体的には、水性成分に増粘剤(カルボマー等)を溶解し、別途混合・溶解した油性成分を添加してホモミキサーで乳化処理を行った。
得られた各例の化粧料について、(1−1)と同様の評価を行った。評価結果を表8及び9に併せて示す。
Claims (4)
- (a)0.5〜5.0質量%の4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン;
(b)3.0〜10質量%のメトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシル;
(c)5.0質量%以上の両親媒性物質;及び
(d)IOB=0.05〜0.60のエステル油を含有する液状油分、
を含み、
前記成分(a)、(b)及び(c)の配合量が以下の関係:
[(a)+(b)]/(c)=0.5〜3.5
を満たすことを特徴とする日焼け止め化粧料。 - 前記(c)両親媒性物質が、下記式(I):
R1O−[(AO)m(EO)n]−R2 (I)
(式(I)において、AOは炭素原子数3〜4のオキシアルキレン基を示し、EOはオキシエチレン基を示し、1≦m≦70、1≦n≦70である)で表されるポリオキシアルキレン・ポリオキシエチレン共重合体ジアルキルエーテルである、請求項1に記載の化粧料。 - パラ−アミノ安息香酸誘導体、サリチル酸誘導体、β,β−ジフェニルアクリラート誘導体、ベンゾフェノン誘導体、ベンジリデンショウノウ誘導体、フェニルベンゾイミダゾール誘導体、トリアジン誘導体、フェニルベンゾトリアゾール誘導体、アントラニル誘導体、イミダゾリン誘導体、ベンザルマロナート誘導体、4,4−ジアリールブタジエン誘導体等から選択される1種又は2種以上の他の紫外線吸収剤を更に含む、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。
- (a)4−tert−ブチル−4‘−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン及び(b)メトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシルを含む日焼け止め化粧料に、(c)5.0質量%以上の両親媒性物質及び(d)IOB=0.05〜0.60のエステル油を含有する液状油分を配合することを含む、日焼け止め化粧料の光劣化を防止する方法。
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