JPH10130973A - Fine spinning and intertwisting yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To impart soft touch feeling without impairing touch feeling and quality of a woven fabric comprising 100% natural fiber by subjecting lamination type polyester multifilament yarns having noncircular and mutually dissimilar cross section of each filament after dissolution treatment to fine spinning, twisting and uniting. SOLUTION: Lamination type polyester yarns having noncircular and mutually substantially dissimilar cross section of each filament after dissolution treatment are fed to a fine spinning front roll in spinning of natural fiber (wool, cotton, linen, silk, etc.) and subjected to fine spinning and intertwisting. After weaving, the fabric is subjected to relax scorching, amount reduction, dyeing, drying, finishing set to provide a fabric fibrillated in each filament and having natural fluff feeling.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a spun twisted yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics made of 100% natural fibers, for example, cotton 10
0% woven fabrics, especially so-called high-density woven fabrics, are often used for coated fabrics and the like. It is disadvantageous in cost. In addition, high-density wool fabrics with a soft texture use high-grade products such as cashmere, and hemp fabrics have to employ weight reduction processing, which is disadvantageous in cost.

On the other hand, a high-density woven fabric composed of natural fibers and nylon multifilament yarns has a slightly soft texture but cannot be said to be sufficient.
The texture and quality of the 00% fabric are impaired.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of cost and hand, and to provide a soft hand without impairing the hand and quality of a 100% natural fiber woven fabric. Things.

[0005]

According to the present invention, there is provided a spinning twisted yarn comprising natural fibers and polyester multifilament yarn, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn is a laminated multifilament yarn, A spinning twisted yarn, wherein the cross-sectional shape of each filament is non-circular, and is substantially unequal to each other,
It is.

In the present invention, the fact that the cross-sectional shapes of each filament after the melting treatment are non-circular and substantially different from each other means that lamination of fiber-forming polymers having different solubilities as schematically shown in FIG. The fiber with a circular cross section was split by dissolving the easily soluble fiber-forming polymer, for example, as if onion, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, etc. were cut vertically from the top to the bottom of the root, and slightly broken. It refers to a shape that is curved into various shapes, such as a cross-section, that has almost no shape.

[0007] Polyester multifilament yarns having a non-circular cross-sectional shape after dissolving each filament used in the present invention and which are substantially different from each other are disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 63-16555
This is a laminated multifilament yarn in which an easily soluble fiber-forming polymer is dissolved by a dissolving treatment represented by alkali weight reduction, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 4 (1994) -208. Laminated multifilament yarns are two types of fiber-forming polymers that have mutual affinity and differ in solubility are individually melted, and then these polymers are passed through a static kneading element having several elements. It is what is spun as a composite state.

The polyester multifilament yarn used in the present invention is disclosed in Japanese Patent Application No. 7-206 proposed by the present applicant.
No. 905, which is a multilayer fiber composed of two polyesters having different alkali solubility, each filament having 2
Laminated multifilament yarn in which five or more kinds of polyesters are laminated, at least a part of the laminated polyester has one opening and is curved, and the center point of the curvature is eccentric from the center of the filament. (Polyester multilayer fiber).

In the polyester multifilament yarn used in the present invention, the weight ratio of the two polyesters in the above-mentioned laminated multifilament yarn is 90:10 to 60: 4.
0, more preferably 90:10
７０70: 30. The laminated multifilament yarn described above has, for example, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 measured at 1% by weight in orthochlorophenol and an alkali-soluble polyester having a molecular weight of 6%.
A biaxial composite comprising two fiber-forming polymers having different alkali solubilities using a block polyetherester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.90 obtained by copolymerizing 25% by weight of polyethylene glycol of 25% by weight. It can be manufactured by weighing with a metering pump using a spinning machine, disposing 8 static kneading elements in the spinneret, mixing and spinning both at a weight ratio of 90/10, and winding and hot-stretching. .

Here, the difference in solubility means that there is a difference in solubility between organic and inorganic solvents or a difference in resistance to a chemical such as caustic soda which acts as a hydrolyzing agent. Say Examples of the fiber-forming polymer include homopolyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene oxybenzoate, polydimethylcyclohexane terephthalate, and polypivalolactone; Isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid are copolymerized as a third component with these polyester components, and polypropylene glycol and polymethylene glycol are copolymerized as a second alcohol component.

The two types of fiber-forming polymers having different solubilities include, in addition to a combination of different fiber-forming polymers, a group of two types of polymers of the same family and having relatively close melting temperatures. In the adjustment, a method of changing the degree of polymerization of the polymer, changing the presence or absence of the copolymer or changing the ratio, or modifying the number of terminal groups to make the dyeing easy or difficult to dye is appropriately selected.

The spinning method of the laminated multifilament yarn is a spin take-up method in which an undrawn yarn is obtained once and then drawn by a draw-twisting machine at a winding speed of 4000 m / min or more. Or a spin draw take-up method. On the other hand, the natural fiber is one or more of cotton, wool, hemp, silk and the like, and other fibers such as cupra, rayon and the like are usually used within a range of not more than 30% within a range that does not impair the object of the present invention. One or more of cellulose fibers, synthetic fibers such as nylon, polyester, and acrylic, and modified fibers having improved pill resistance and the like may be appropriately mixed according to the purpose. Either inch or worsted, non-shrinkable cotton or shrinkable cotton may be used.

In the present invention, the monofilament denier of other fibers which may be appropriately mixed with natural fibers according to the purpose is 0.1%.
It is preferably from 3.0 to 3.0 denier, more preferably from 0.4 to 1.0 denier, and a soft texture is obtained. The count and twist coefficient of the spun twisted yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited. For example, the count is preferably in the range of 1/30 to 1/200, and the twist coefficient is preferably in the range of 40 to 100, and may be appropriately selected. More preferably, the count is 1/40 to 1/100, and the twist coefficient is 40 to 80.

[0014] The spinning and twisting yarn of the present invention may be used 100% or mixed with other fibers when weaving or weaving. For example, weaving is performed by alternately arranging warp and / or weft. You may. As other fibers to be mixed, natural fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers, various synthetic fibers such as regular polyester yarns, thick and thin yarns, different shrinkage mixed yarns and the like can be freely selected and used according to the desired fabric texture. It is also possible.

[0015] In the woven fabric using the spun twisted yarn of the present invention, as a finishing step, the greige fabric is refined and relaxed by a general processing step, and the weight reduction rate is reduced to about 10 to 25%.
Dye, dry and finish set. The method for reducing the weight is preferably a method of reducing the weight in a spread state and then reducing the weight in a rubbing state by a jet dyeing machine or the like. In the finishing step, specifically, the knitted and woven fabric is subjected to scouring and relaxation with a boil of 90 ° C. or more using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and a 10% by weight alkaline aqueous solution of 90 ° C. After reducing the weight with the above boiler and washing with water, dyeing is performed at a high pressure of 130 ° C. by a jet dyeing machine, and then drying set to finish. It is also preferable to raise the hair with an emery or a needle cloth before or after the weight loss, if desired, because the appearance and texture of the suede tone are added.

The spun intertwisted yarn of the present invention is a single yarn but is a twin yarn-like. By reducing the amount of the laminated multifilament yarn, each filament is fibrillated, and a natural fluffiness can be obtained. It has a clear surface feeling and gloss, and has a feature that the pill resistance, which is a drawback of the spun yarn, is greatly improved. The spun twisted yarn of the present invention uses, as a polyester multifilament yarn, a multilayer fiber having a non-circular cross-sectional shape and a non-uniform cross-sectional shape after dissolving a filament, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application No. 7-206905. Therefore, a fabric made of filaments having different cross-sectional shapes and thicknesses can be obtained by subjecting the knitted and woven fabric to an alkali treatment. The average denier of the filaments of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the obtained fabric is 0.3 to 0.8 d and the thickness is 0.2
It is a fabric having a filament content of d or less with a content of 10 to 40%, and has an elegant appearance and texture of excellent silkiness.

[0017]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. As a polyester multifilament yarn having a non-circular cross-sectional shape after dissolving each filament and being substantially unequal to each other, a laminated multifilament yarn manufactured by the following method was used.

As the poorly soluble alkali polyester, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 measured at 1% by weight in orthochlorophenol is used. As the easily soluble alkali polyester, polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 6000 is used. A block polyetherester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.90, which was obtained by copolymerizing 25% by weight of toluene, was used.
A polyester having low solubility in alkali and easily soluble in alkali is metered with a metering pump using a biaxial composite spinning machine, and eight static kneading elements are arranged in the spinning port, and both are mixed and spun at a weight ratio of 90/10. Then, after winding at a speed of 1250 m / min, it was hot-drawn to obtain a 75d / 24f yarn. The resulting laminated multifilament yarn, as schematically shown in FIG. 1, had a non-circular and non-circular cross-sectional shape and a boiling water shrinkage of 7.5 to 8.0% when subjected to dissolution treatment. , Strength 4.5 to 4.7 g / d and elongation 30 to 35%.

The fiber obtained by using the alkali-soluble polyester alone is made of sodium hydroxide (Na) at 90 ° C.
OH) The dissolution rate ratio in a 2% by weight aqueous solution is 300
It was twice.

[0020]

Example 1 When wool 60'S was worsted and spun, a laminated polyester multifilament yarn was supplied to a front roll of spinning, and spinning and spinning was performed.
It was spun at 80 T / m. Using the obtained spun intertwisted yarn for warp and weft, a warp density of 140 yarns / cm and a weft density of 70 yarns /
cm weave fabric, according to a conventional method, with a liquid jet dyeing machine,
Relaxing scouring at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes, followed by continuous weight loss in the spread state using an L box,
Reduce the alkali weight to 20% with an aqueous solution of 00% by weight,
Further, the weight was reduced to 5% with a 10% by weight aqueous solution of NaOH in a rubbing state using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and the total weight reduction was 2%.
5%, and subsequently dyed with a combination of an acid dye and a disperse dye, dried at 120 ° C., set at 140 ° C., and finished.

[0021]

Comparative Example 1 Spinning was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a regular polyester multifilament yarn having the same circular cross-sectional shape of all 75d / 36f filaments was used as the polyester multifilament yarn. Twisted, then woven and dyed.

[0022]

Example 2 When spinning cotton 40'S, short spinning was performed by spinning with a laminated polyester multifilament yarn using a front roll of spinning at a count of 1/50 and a twist number of 450 T / m. Except for using the spun twisted yarn obtained above,
As in Example 1, weaving, relaxing refining, weight loss, dyeing and finishing.

In Example 1, the texture was 100% wool and had a soft texture without deteriorating the quality, whereas the product of Comparative Example 1 lacked softness and had 100% wool texture and fluffiness. The quality was impaired. In Example 2, the texture was 100% cotton, the texture was soft, and the fluffiness was natural without impairing the quality.

[0024]

The spun intertwisted yarn of the present invention has a natural fiber content of 100%.
%, Giving a soft texture and a natural fluffiness compared to conventional ones, without impairing the texture and quality of the fabric.
A new fabric is obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a non-circular cross-sectional shape of a laminated multifilament yarn used in a spinning twisted yarn of the present invention after a melting treatment;
FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing that the two are substantially unequal to each other.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A spinning twisted yarn composed of natural fibers and polyester multifilament yarns, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn is a laminated multifilament yarn, and the cross-sectional shape of each filament after the dissolution treatment is non-linear. A spun twisted yarn having a circular shape and being substantially dissimilar to each other.