JPH0641836A - Polyester conjugate yarn and fibrillated polyester - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain polyester fabric having fibril on the whole face of the fabric, bulkiness of silk, natural appearance not found in the conventional fabric for clothing and handle of downy touch. CONSTITUTION:Conjugate yarn consisting of at least two kinds of polyester filaments yarns wherein the difference between alkali dissolution rate constants k1 and k2 is (2,5-6.0)X10<-8>cm/sec, the smaller alkali dissolution rate is >=3.0X10<-8>cm/sec, the k1 yarn is yarn having high shrinkage and has >=8% shrinkage percentage in boiling water, the difference in shrinkage percentage in boiling water between the k1 yarn and the k2 yarn is >=5% and the k2 yarn is yarn subjected to relaxation heat treatment, containing a small amount of polyoxyethylene glycol is woven or knitted and the k2 yarn is mainly fibrillated by alkali treatment in a dyeing and processing process to give fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to polyester composite yarns and fibrillated polyester fabrics for clothing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, the fibrillation phenomenon of polyester for clothing has been regarded as a defect in quality, and it has been generally recognized that it should not be made.

On the other hand, silk is originally the "king of fibrils"
As it is called, a fiber is made up of fibril aggregates of several hundred Å units, and the micro structure of fibrils has a "gloss" unique to silk through light scattering, reflection and refraction.
And produces a "sharpness" effect. Further, in recent years, silk has been actively produced to give new sensitivities by providing a downy hair touch and a soft feeling, which are not present in conventional silk.

With respect to polyesters, material inventions having various characteristics have been made due to the progress of spinning technology in recent years, but inventions that add value to microscale material design such as fibrils and conventional defects are added. Not done.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a polyester fabric having fibrils on the entire surface of the fabric and having the bulkiness of silk and the natural appearance and texture of fluff that are not present in conventional clothing fabrics. To aim.

[0006]

The present invention provides a polyester composite yarn comprising at least two kinds of polyester filament yarns having different alkali dissolution rate constant k and boiling water shrinkage, and an alkali dissolution rate constant k ₁ between the yarns, The difference in k ₂ is 2.5 × 10 ^{−8 to} 6.0 × 10 ⁻⁸
In cm / sec, the value of k _{1 having} a small velocity constant is 3.0.
The present invention provides a polyester composite yarn, characterized in that the yarn having a value of ^{x10 -8} cm / sec or less and having k ₁ is a high shrinkage yarn.

According to the present invention, the polyester composite yarn is woven or knitted and then subjected to an alkali hydrolysis treatment in a dyeing process to produce fibrils mainly in filaments having an alkali dissolution rate constant k _2. The resulting fibrillated polyester fabric is provided.

In the present invention, the alkali dissolution rate constant k
Is an index of alkaline hydrolysis rate characteristics and is represented by the following formula (1). √R =-(10 / r ₀ ) kt + 10 (1) where R is the insoluble weight fraction (%), r ₀ is the radius per unit length of the filament, and t is the alkali dissolution. Represents time (minutes).

From the equation (1), k can be obtained from the following equation (2) by obtaining the time t ₀ at R = 0 (completely dissolved state). k = r ₀ / t ₀ ... (2)

The polyester composite yarn of the present invention comprises two types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali dissolution rate constants k. The polyester filament yarn having a k ₁ having a small alkali dissolution rate constant (hereinafter referred to as “k ₁ yarn”) is a filament yarn obtained by spinning and stretching heat treatment of a normal polyester polymer or after being stretched and then subjected to a heat treatment. Mention may be made of filament yarns which are not.

On the other hand, k _{2 having} a large alkali dissolution rate constant
Polyester filament yarn (hereinafter “k ₂
"As a" thread "), polyoxyalkylene glycol such as polyoxyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 4,000 or more described in JP-A-56-13421, the above-mentioned publication or JP-A-56-144237. A compound represented by the general formula RSO ₃ M described, a pentavalent phosphorus compound such as orthophosphoric acid or an ester thereof described in JP-A-58-36280,
At least one of calcium compounds such as calcium acetate
A filament yarn made of polyester, in which seeds are added and mixed to suppress the crystallinity and whose fiber surface structure is easily changed by alkali hydrolysis, can be mentioned.

In the above general formula RSO ₃ M, R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and 7 to 4 carbon atoms.
0 represents an aryl group or an alkylaryl group, and M represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or an alkaline earth metal.

Among these compounds, a polyester filament yarn containing polyoxyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 4,000 or more is excellent in its fibrillating effect, and when this compound is used in combination with the compound represented by the general formula RSO ₃ M, Great effect. That is,
Polyoxyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 4,000 or more bleeds out to the outer peripheral portion of the fiber cross section when the polyester filament yarn containing it is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, and facilitates fibrillation of the polyester filament in the alkaline hydrolysis treatment.

In the polyester composite yarn of the present invention, the k ₁ yarn and the k ₂ yarn have different boiling water shrinkage ratios, and it is necessary that the k ₁ yarn has a large boiling water shrinkage ratio. By using such a yarn, the k ₂ yarn in the sheath is mainly fibrillated in the alkali treatment during the dyeing process of the obtained fabric, and a heat treatment causes a difference in yarn length between the yarns, resulting in silky bulkiness. It is possible to obtain a polyester fabric having a natural appearance and a touch of downy hair.

In the polyester composite yarn of the present invention, k
_The weight ratio of ₁ yarn to k ₂ yarn is 30:70 to 7
It is preferably 0:30. If the k ₁ yarn is less than 30%, the tenacity retention is lowered, and if it exceeds 70%, it becomes difficult to obtain a sufficient fibril appearance effect.

The k ₁ and k ₂ yarns as described above can be made into a composite yarn by a mixed fiber or Taslan processing method. These methods can be carried out by ordinary draw-entanglement or Taslan processing, but preferably the k ₂ yarn is set by a relaxation heat set, for example, 5 to 15% overfeed.
Examples include a method in which treatment is carried out at 80 to 230 ° C., and k ₁ yarn is used as a core yarn for 2-feed entanglement or Taslan processing. This allows the k ₂ yarn of the sheath yarn to cover the outer layer due to the self-stretching behavior and facilitate fibrillation.

In the present invention, such a composite yarn is used as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, is woven or knitted, and is then subjected to an alkali hydrolysis treatment in a dyeing process step to have a large alkali dissolution rate constant. A fibril is generated in the k ₂ yarn, and the k ₁ yarn of the core yarn is contracted by heat treatment to cause a gap between the _two yarns, and the k ₂ yarn of the sheath yarn is entangled with a void around the yarn to make it silky. It gives a touch of downy hair that is rich in bulkiness and natural appearance.

The fibrillation phenomenon usually means that the fibrils are exposed on the fiber surface and are ruptured by an external force or friction.
It is a phenomenon in which a bleached state is exhibited by standing up. As a method for attaining such a state, there is an alkali hydrolysis treatment, and such a state usually causes a remarkable deterioration in strength and cannot be put to practical use.

In the alkaline hydrolysis treatment in the dyeing process, the k ₂ yarn is in a completely fibrillated state by performing a weight reduction treatment of 10% or more, preferably 15 to 25%. The alkaline hydrolysis treatment is carried out, for example, in a caustic soda solution having a concentration of 20 to 45 g / l in an amount of 80 to 100.
The treatment is carried out at a temperature of 20 to 60 minutes. The weight reduction rate can be changed according to the warp or weft usage ratio of the composite yarn of the present invention.

The dyeing method is preferably a dyeing method in which fibrillated polyester cloth is laid between the cloths or the filament is ruptured by contact with a wall surface, for example, a high-temperature high-speed processing method using a circular rapid dyeing machine. Can be mentioned.

[0021]

In the fibrillated polyester cloth of the present invention, the alkali dissolution rate constant and the boiling water shrinkage ratio are different, and the difference between the constants k ₁ and k ₂ is 2.5 × 10 ^{-8 to} 6.01.
A composite yarn composed of at least two types of polyester filaments in which a yarn having a k ₁ of a small constant at 0 ⁻⁸ cm / sec (hereinafter referred to as “k ₁ yarn”) is a high shrinkage yarn is woven or knitted and then alkali-hydrated. By subjecting to a decomposition treatment, the k ₂ yarn of the sheath yarn having a large alkali dissolution rate constant easily becomes a fibril structure yarn by alkali hydrolysis,
These yarns rupture due to cloth-to-cloth scratches, momares, cloth-to-wall surface scratches, and the like in the dyeing process, and are fluffy and whitened to give a very natural appearance and a downy touch.

The difference Δ (k ₂ between the two alkali dissolution rate constants
When -k ₁ ) is less than 2.5 × 10 ^-8 cm / sec, the k ₂ yarn does not have a sufficient fibrillation phenomenon, and rather has a dirty appearance due to a halfway mottled fibrillation. On the other hand, when Δ (k ₂ −k ₁ ) exceeds 6.0 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec, the k ₂ yarn is completely melted, and the k ₁ yarn remains, resulting in a thin fabric structure. I will end up. Δ (k ₂
-K ₁ ) is preferably 2.5 × 10 ^{−8 to} 5.0 × 10.
^-8 cm / sec.

At this time, the k ₁ yarn of the core yarn is preferably at a level capable of withstanding the clothing function in terms of strength, and thus the value of k ₁ is preferably 3.0 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec or less, Is 2.0 × 10 ^{−8 to} 2.5 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec. Therefore, the value of k ₂ is preferably 5.5 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec or more.

In the composite yarn of the present invention, since the k ₁ yarn has a small alkali dissolution rate constant, the weight loss rate due to alkaline hydrolysis is smaller than that of the k ₂ yarn, the waist and the repulsion property are maintained, and the k ₁ yarn is applied to the fabric. Gives sufficient tear strength.

In the present invention, the alkali dissolution rate constant k
₁ and k ₂ are values measured by separating each yarn after the composite processing.

Further, in the present invention, the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the k ₁ yarn and the k ₂ yarn is set to 5% or more, so that the heat treatment in the dyeing process causes a sufficient difference between the two yarns. The k ₂ yarn of the sheath yarn is entangled around the k ₁ yarn with a void, and silky bulkiness can be expressed.
The thread difference is preferably 5 to 25%. difference k ₁ yarn and k ₂ yarn boiling water shrinkage percentage of, preferably 7-15%.

Further, the boiling water shrinkage of the k ₁ yarn is preferably 8% or more, particularly preferably 10 to 25%, so that a fibrillated cloth having an appropriate bulge can be obtained.

By expressing such a difference in yarn length, it is possible to obtain a dry texture of a downy hair having a large inter-fiber void, which is different from the slimy feeling of the mixed yarn. The diameter of the downed hair is about 1 μm, which is extremely small, and is usually about 1/10 of the ultrafine thread. However, the fluffy shape is only at the tip and is well cut off. A fluffy touch with no remaining slimy feel is obtained.

The fibrillated polyester fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned Δ (k ₂ −k ₁ ) and k ₁ , and k ₁
By using a polyester filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 5% or more between the yarn and the k ₂ yarn and having a boiling water shrinkage of 8% or more as the k ₁ yarn,
With ₂ yarn is fibril structures yarn by alkaline hydrolysis, becomes a shape which covers the surface of the fabric for a low shrinkage yarn, the fabric shows the entire fibril form of k ₂ yarns, these yarns ruptured in dyeing process And then whiten again k
₁ and k ₂ are preferable because they can give a very natural appearance and hair-falling touch due to the difference in yarn length between the yarns.

Since the fibrillated polyester cloth of the present invention is sufficiently contained in the dyeing machine and set in the finishing process, the appearance of the fibril is hardly changed by washing or the like. It has the easy care function of.

The fluffed fabric of the fibrillated fabric of the present invention has a hair-producing touch different from that obtained by subjecting a conventional extra fine yarn to a raising process, and is obtained by an ordinary dyeing process due to the characteristics of the composite yarn of the present invention. There is no "sticky touch" caused by brushing or "fluffing" caused by washing.

[0032]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. Example 1 (a) Manufacture of polyester composite yarn Raw material yarn As a core yarn, k ₁ yarn, boiling water shrinkage (BWS) 15
% And k ₁ of 2.0 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec polyester drawn yarn (non-heat treatment) B30-12 [Teijin Co., Ltd.
As a sheath yarn for k ₂ yarn having a BWS of 8% and a k ₂ value of 5.8 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec, Lapier V [manufactured by Teijin Limited, PEG # 200.8% by weight] And 0.4 wt% blend of sodium alkylsulfonate having an average carbon number of 12] BB30 / 12 was used.

The processing conditions k ₁ yarn and k ₂ yarns Upon be commingled with an air nozzle, k
₂ Heat-set with a contact heater at 180 ° C with a supply amount of 12% that does not cause slack, and set the value of k ₂ to 7.2 × 10 ^-8
It was improved to cm / sec. After that, air processing was performed while passing through the same supply roller and slackening at a supply rate of 2.0% in a uniform state to obtain a polyester composite yarn.

(B) Manufacture of fibrillated fabric Textile conversion The polyester composite yarn obtained as described above is treated with 300T.
/ M twisted and used as a plain weave fabric with a greige CF = 1900 strands / inch.

Using the raw material obtained by the fibrillation process, ordinary scouring and relaxing processes were carried out, and after presetting, alkali hydrolysis was carried out for about 30 minutes in a boil bath having an alkali concentration of 40 g / l for about 2 minutes.
A weight reduction treatment of 0 to 22% was performed. After that, the flow velocity is 350m
The k ₂ yarn is fibrillated (whitened) by performing dyeing processing at 130 ° C. for 50 minutes with a high-speed rapid dyeing machine of 1 / min.
_A fibrillated fabric with a natural appearance was obtained, in which _one yarn was strongly retained as a core yarn.

Evaluation of fibrillated woven fabric The woven fabric had a natural appearance due to fibrillation of the sheath yarn and an increase in inter-fiber voids due to fibrillation, and thus was a fabric having a very dry, silky, thin, brushed and raised touch. The tear strength of the woven fabric is 800 in both the warp and weft directions.
It was more than g and showed physical properties suitable for a thin ladies' fabric.

Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 Polyester filament yarn of 50 denier for both k ₁ and k ₂ yarns (however, the constituent polymer of k ₂ yarns of Examples 2 to 4 is the same as that of Example 1). Interlaced mixed fiber,
300T / M twisted yarn, which was used for the process, CF =
Habutae fabric is made with 1,800 yarns / inch, N = 20
% Alkali hydrolysis treatment, and fibrillated fabric was obtained by high pressure rapid dyeing and finishing. Table 1 shows the properties of the k ₁ and k ₂ yarns that compose the composite yarn obtained by the interlaced mixed fiber, and the appearance, texture and tear strength of the fibrillated woven fabric.

[0038]

[Table 1]

As shown in Table 1, the fibrillated woven fabrics obtained in Examples 2 to 4 all exhibited a silky bulge and a fibril appearance rich in natural feeling, and had sufficient tear strength.

On the other hand, in the fibril woven fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the k ₁ yarn is a normal polyester filament stretched yarn (non-heat-treated) yarn, and the k ₂ yarn is a normal dyeable polymer such as a cationic dyeable polymer. It corresponds to a material that is said to be easily weight-reduced, but Δ (k ₂ −k ₁ ) is too small to cause sufficient fibrillation, and as the weight-reduction treatment progresses, a fibril-like woven fabric with many spots Became,
It couldn't be put to practical use.

Further, Comparative Examples 4 to 7 are examples outside the scope of the present invention, and none of the fabrics having a fibril appearance and a silky bulge could be obtained.

In the examples, the fibrillated fabric was evaluated as follows. Fibril appearance ◯: Non-uniform but exhibits a natural appearance due to fibrils over the entire surface of the fabric. Δ: Generation of fibrils is recognized, but mottled appearance is exhibited. X: Almost no fibril formation was observed. Texture ◯: Shows a fine downy hair touch and dry bulkiness. Δ: No touch of downing is felt due to only silky bulkiness. X: Neither bulkiness nor touch of downing hair is felt. Tear strength ○: 600 g or more for both warp and weft △: 600 g or less for any of the warp and weft ×: 600 g or less for both warp and weft

[0043]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION When the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is used, the yarn having a large rate constant is fibrillated mainly by the alkaline hydrolysis treatment, which is ruptured or whitened in the dyeing process to have an extremely natural appearance and a dry downy hair touch. The fibrils have a silky bulky texture, and the heat treatment during dyeing causes a difference in yarn length between the two types of yarn, and the sheath yarn with a low boiling water shrinkage entangles with voids around the core yarn. A chemical fabric can be obtained.

Further, since the fibrillated polyester cloth of the present invention uses the above-mentioned composite yarn, it has a silky and bulky natural appearance and a touch of fluff, which is a drawback of the conventional cloth for clothes. It is a value-added new cloth with a high sensitivity and can be suitably used as a thin cloth for women.

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Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A polyester composite yarn comprising at least two kinds of polyester filament yarns having different alkali dissolution rate constant k and boiling water shrinkage, and the difference in alkali dissolution rate constants k ₁ and k ₂ between the yarns is 2.
5 × 10 ^{−8 to} 6.0 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec, the value of k _{1 having} a small rate constant is 3.0 × 10 ⁻⁸ cm / sec or less, and a yarn having the k ₁ is A polyester composite yarn characterized by being a high shrinkage yarn. 2. The polyester composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein a difference in boiling water shrinkage between at least two polyester filament yarns is 5% or more, and a yarn having a high shrinkage has a boiling water shrinkage of 8% or more. 3. The polyester composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester filament yarn having an alkali dissolution rate constant k ₂ is made of polyester containing polyoxyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 4,000 or more. 4. The polyester composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester filament yarn having an alkali dissolution rate constant k ₂ is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. 5. The value of the alkali dissolution rate constant k ₂ is 5.5.
The polyester composite yarn according to claim 1, which has a density of × 10 ^-8 cm / sec or more. 6. The polyester composite yarn according to claim 1 is woven or knitted, and then subjected to an alkali hydrolysis treatment in a dyeing process to produce fibrils mainly in filaments having an alkali dissolution rate constant k _2. The resulting fibrillated polyester fabric.