JP7101167B2 - 多孔質粉末配合日焼け止め化粧料 - Google Patents
多孔質粉末配合日焼け止め化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP7101167B2 JP7101167B2 JP2019514349A JP2019514349A JP7101167B2 JP 7101167 B2 JP7101167 B2 JP 7101167B2 JP 2019514349 A JP2019514349 A JP 2019514349A JP 2019514349 A JP2019514349 A JP 2019514349A JP 7101167 B2 JP7101167 B2 JP 7101167B2
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Images
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
このような利点から、親油性多孔質粉体は粉末化粧料に高配合されており、その他の系の化粧料についても、高配合が望まれる成分である。親油性ゆえに油相中に配合される場合が多いが、表面に特定のポリマーを付加することで、水相中に分散させる技術も開発されている(特許文献1)。
このことは、紫外線吸収剤に限らず、油溶性の機能性成分全般に共通する問題である。
さらに、油溶性機能性成分として紫外線吸収剤を配合し、粘度100mPa・s以下の油分を配合して多孔質粉体の孔の少なくとも一部に保持させることにより、毛穴補正効果、さらさら感持続効果、紫外線防御効果をすべて備えた日焼け止め化粧料が得られることを見出し、本発明を完成させるに至った。
[1] (A)親油性多孔質粉体、(B)油溶性機能性成分を内包する水中油型乳化粒子、(C)高分子分散剤、(D)水性媒体を含み、
成分(A)の表面に成分(C)が存在し、成分(A)及び成分(B)が、成分(D)中にそれぞれ分散していることを特徴とする化粧料。
[2] (A)親油性多孔質粉体が架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレートを主素材とすることを特徴とする、前記[1]に記載の化粧料。
[3] (C)高分子分散剤がアクリル系ポリマーであることを特徴とする、前記[1]または[2]に記載の化粧料。
[4] (A)親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油可能量が該粉体に対し100質量%以上であることを特徴とする、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
[5] さらに粘度100mPa・s以下の油分を含み、該油分が成分(A)の孔の少なくとも一部に保持されていることを特徴とする、前記[1]~[4]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
[6] 下記の式を満たすことを特徴とする、前記[1]~[5]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
[(化粧料中の油分の含有量(質量%)/(化粧料中の親油性多孔質粉体の含有量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
[7] 25℃における粘度が100000mPa・s以下であることを特徴とする、前記[6]に記載の化粧料。
[8] 成分(B)の油溶性機能性成分が紫外線吸収剤であることを特徴とする、前記[1]~[7]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
[9] さらに乳化剤を含むことを特徴とする、前記[1]~[8]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
[10] 成分(B)を含む上層、成分(A)を含む下層、及びその他の成分からなる中間層の3層に分離していることを特徴とする、前記[1]~[9]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
本発明に好適に用いることができる親油性多孔質粉体としては、例えば、架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート、ナイロン多孔質粉末等が挙げられる。これらの粉末は、数質量%以下の他の成分、例えばシリカ等を含んでいてもよい。また、球状であることが好ましい。球状である場合の平均粒径は、特に限定されないが、0.1~100μm、好ましくは0.5~50μm、より好ましくは1~20μm程度であってよい。
材質そのものが親油性のもの、または、材質が親水性で親油性物質でコーティングされたもののいずれも用いることができるが、コーティングされる場合には孔内まで親油化されていることが好ましい。
本発明に用いることができる油溶性機能性成分としては、例えば、紫外線吸収剤、油溶性抗酸化剤等が挙げられる。なお、本発明における“油溶性”とは、25℃において蒸留水に対する溶解度が10質量%以下である性質を意味する。
カロチノイドとしては、アクチニオエリスロール、アスタキサンチン、ビキシン、カンタキサンチン、カプサンチン、カプソルビン、β-8’-アポ-カロテナール(アポカロテナール)、β-12’-アポ-カロテナール、α-カロテン、β-カロテン、”カロテン”(α-及びβ-カロテン類の混合物)、γ-カロテン、β-クリプトキサンチン、エキネノン、ルテイン、リコピン、ビオラキサンチン、ゼアキサンチン等が挙げられる。
ビタミンEとしては、特に限定されず、例えば、トコフェロール及びその誘導体からなる化合物群、並びにトコトリエノール及びその誘導体からなる化合物群から選ばれるものが挙げられる。これらは単独で用いても、複数併用して用いてもよい。またトコフェロール及びその誘導体からなる化合物群とトコトリエノール及びその誘導体からなる化合物群からそれぞれ選択されたものを組み合わせて使用してもよい。
また、本発明における(B)の油溶性機能性成分の配合量は、化粧料総量に対し、0.01-30質量%、より好ましくは0.03-20質量%であってもよい。
本発明に係る化粧料には、(A)親油性多孔質粉体を(D)水性媒体中に分散させるために、高分子からなる分散剤が配合される。この目的に用いることができる高分子としては、アクリル系ポリマーが好ましく、さらに架橋型アクリル酸コポリマーを好適に用いることができる。
また、架橋型アクリル酸コポリマーとしては、アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体((アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))クロスポリマー等)が挙げられる。
本発明における水性媒体は、水を主成分として含む媒体であって、水単独でもよく、また、低級アルコール及び/または多価アルコールを含んでいてもよい。
低級アルコールとしては、例えば、エタノール、プロパノール、イソプロパノール等が挙げられる。
多価アルコールとしては、例えば、エチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、トリメチレングリコール、1,2-ブチレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、テトラメチレングリコール、2,3-ブチレングリコール等の2価アルコール、グリセリン等の3価アルコールが挙げられる。
なお、上記多価アルコールは、後述するように、保湿剤として配合されたものであってもよい。
当該油分としては、特に制限されず、極性油、非極性油等を用いることができる。なお、油分全体としての粘度が100mPa・sを超えると親油性多孔質粉体中に保持されにくくなり、十分な毛穴補正効果が得られない場合がある。
極性油を用いた場合には、組成物粘度が比較的低く抑えられ、スキンケア組成物、特に美容液、乳液に近似した使用感(みずみずしさ、べたつきがない等)を得ることができる。
非極性油を用いた場合には、比較的高粘度となるため、ジェル状スキンケア組成物に近似した使用感を得ることができる。
[(毛穴補正組成物中の油分の含有量(質量%)/(毛穴補正組成物中の親油性多孔質粉体の含有量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
油分量が上記式を満たさない場合には、毛穴補正効果が得られない場合がある。なお、油分量が0.1倍よりも少ないと、毛穴補正効果が劣ってしまう場合がある。
ただし、高屈折率(屈折率2以上など)の無機粉体を配合する場合には、組成物中5質量%以下、好ましくは1質量%以下とすることが好ましい。
高級脂肪酸としては、例えば、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、オレイン酸、ウンデシレン酸、トール酸、イソステアリン酸、リノール酸、リノレイン酸、エイコサペンタエン酸(EPA)、ドコサヘキサエン酸(DHA)等が挙げられる。
アニオン界面活性剤としては、例えば、脂肪酸セッケン(例えば、ラウリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸ナトリウム等);高級アルキル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸カリウム等);アルキルエーテル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、POE-ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン、POE-ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム等);N-アシルサルコシン酸(例えば、ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム等);高級脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩(例えば、N-ミリストイル-N-メチルタウリンナトリウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸メチルタウリッドナトリウム、ラウリルメチルタウリッドナトリウム等);リン酸エステル塩(POE-オレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、POE-ステアリルエーテルリン酸等);スルホコハク酸塩(例えば、ジ-2-エチルヘキシルスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、モノラウロイルモノエタノールアミドポリオキシエチレンスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、ラウリルポリプロピレングリコールスルホコハク酸ナトリウム等);アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸塩(例えば、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸ナトリウム、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸トリエタノールアミン、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸等);高級脂肪酸エステル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、硬化ヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリン硫酸ナトリウム等);N-アシルグルタミン酸塩(例えば、N-ラウロイルグルタミン酸モノナトリウム、N-ステアロイルグルタミン酸ジナトリウム、N-ミリストイル-L-グルタミン酸モノナトリウム等);硫酸化油(例えば、ロート油等);POE-アルキルエーテルカルボン酸;POE-アルキルアリルエーテルカルボン酸塩;α-オレフィンスルホン酸塩;高級脂肪酸エステルスルホン酸塩;二級アルコール硫酸エステル塩;高級脂肪酸アルキロールアミド硫酸エステル塩;ラウロイルモノエタノールアミドコハク酸ナトリウム;N-パルミトイルアスパラギン酸ジトリエタノールアミン;カゼインナトリウム等が挙げられる。
アミノ酸としては、例えば、中性アミノ酸(例えば、スレオニン、システイン等);塩基性アミノ酸(例えば、ヒドロキシリジン等)等が挙げられる。また、アミノ酸誘導体として、例えば、アシルサルコシンナトリウム(ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム)、アシルグルタミン酸塩、アシルβ-アラニンナトリウム、グルタチオン、ピロリドンカルボン酸等が挙げられる。
なお、当該粘度が100mPa・s以下になると、(A)親油性多孔質粉体が沈降しやすくなり、成分(B)油溶性機能性成分を内包する水中油型乳化粒子を含む上層、成分(A)親油性多孔質粉体を含む下層、及びその他の成分からなる中間層の3層に分離する場合があるが、懸濁して使用すれば本発明の効果が得られるので問題はない。
よって、本発明に係る化粧料は、定常状態で、前記3層に分離していてもよい。
最初に、実施例で使用した化粧料の製造方法及びその評価方法について説明する。
高分子分散剤とその他の成分を添加した水性媒体に多孔質粉体を分散させた後、油分を添加し、さらに、別途製造した油溶性機能性成分を内包する水中油型乳化粒子を添加して化粧料を得た。
(1)紫外線防御効果
測定プレート(Sプレート)(5×5cmのV溝PMMA板、SPFMASTER-PA01)に各試験例の化粧料(サンプル)を2mg/cm2の量で滴下し、60秒間指で塗布し、15分間乾燥させた後、株式会社日立製作所社製U-3500型自記録分光光度計を用いて吸光度を測定した。無塗布プレートをコントロールとして、前記プレート上に形成された塗膜の吸光度(Abs)を以下の式で算出した。
Abs=-log(T/To)
T:サンプルの透過率、To:無塗布の透過率
得られた測定結果の波長310nmのAbsを比較し、下記基準に従って判定を行い、表中に記号で表した。本願では、B以上の場合に効果を有すると判定した。
[判定]
A:Absが0.9以上
B:Absが0.5以上、0.9未満
C:Absが0.5未満
また、同様の手法で、吸収スペクトルも測定した。試験例2及び3の結果を図1に示す。
10名の専門パネルに化粧料を顔に塗布してもらい、4時間後のさらさら感について評価してもらった。下記基準に従って判定を行い、表中に記号で表した。本願では、B以上の場合に効果を有すると判定した。
[判定]
A:10名中8名以上が、さらさら感が持続していると評価した。
B:10名中4~7名が、さらさら感が持続していると評価した。
C:10名中3名以下が、さらさら感が持続していると評価した。
10名の専門パネルに化粧料を顔に塗布してもらい、毛穴補正効果の有無を評価してもらった。下記基準に従って判定を行い、表中に記号で表した。本願では、Aの場合に効果を有すると判定した。
[判定]
A:効果があると答えたパネルが5名以上
B:効果があると答えたパネルが4名以下
下表1の処方の化粧料を前記方法に従って製造し、前記評価項目について評価した結果を表1に示す。なお、定常状態(20℃、1気圧下で1日静置後)において、試験例1と2は1層であったが、試験例3と4は、紫外線吸収剤を内包する水中油型乳化粒子を含む上層、多孔質粉体を含む下層、及びその他の成分からなる中間層の3層に分離していた。そのため、前記官能試験では、試験例3と4の化粧料が入った容器を懸濁して1層状態にしてから、塗布してもらった。
*1:PRESS-AID SP(PRESPERSE社製)
*2:テクポリマー MBP-8HP(球状、積水化成品工業株式会社製)
*3:サンスフェアL-51s(球状、AGC エスアイテック株式会社製)
*4:PEMULEN TR-2(BFGoodrich社製)
*5:SIMULGEL NS(SEPPIC社製)
*6:ケルトロール(ケルコ社製)
*7:PPG-1000(三洋化成工業株式会社製)
*8:ザッハトレーベン RC-402P(SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS OY社製)
成分 配合量(質量%)
トリエチルヘキサノイン 1
パルミチン酸エチルヘキシル 3
イソステアリン酸 0.5
架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質粉体*2 8
レチノール 0.1
キサンタンガム 0.1
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー*4 0.03
PEG-60水添ヒマシ油 1
グリセリン 10
ジプロピレングリコール 5
1,3-ブチレングリコール 8
エチルパラベン 適量
メチルパラベン 適量
フェノキシエタノール 適量
メタリン酸Na 0.01
トリエタノールアミン 2.8
イオン交換水 残余
成分 配合量(質量%)
トリエチルヘキサノイン 1
パルミチン酸エチルヘキシル 3
イソステアリン酸 0.5
架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質粉体*2 8
酢酸トコフェロール 0.1
キサンタンガム 0.1
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー*4 0.03
PEG-60水添ヒマシ油 1
グリセリン 10
ジプロピレングリコール 5
1,3-ブチレングリコール 8
エチルパラベン 適量
メチルパラベン 適量
フェノキシエタノール 適量
メタリン酸Na 0.01
トリエタノールアミン 2.8
イオン交換水 残余
成分 配合量(質量%)
トリエチルヘキサノイン 1
パルミチン酸エチルヘキシル 3
イソステアリン酸 0.5
架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質粉体*2 8
ユビキノン 0.1
キサンタンガム 0.1
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー*4 0.03
PEG-60水添ヒマシ油 1
グリセリン 10
ジプロピレングリコール 5
1,3-ブチレングリコール 8
エチルパラベン 適量
メチルパラベン 適量
フェノキシエタノール 適量
メタリン酸Na 0.01
トリエタノールアミン 2.8
イオン交換水 残余
成分 配合量(質量%)
グリセリン 2
1,3-ブチレングリコール 8
ジプロピレングリコール 4.2
キサンタンガム 0.1
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー*4 0.03
POE(20)POP(8)セチルエーテル 1
トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 1
セバシン酸ジイソプロピル 2
イソステアリン酸 0.2
メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル 7.5
ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノールメトキシフェニルトリアジン
2
フェニルベンズイミダゾールスルホン酸 3
エチルヘキシルトリアゾン 1
PPG-17 1
架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質粉体 8
エチルパラベン 適量
メチルパラベン 適量
フェノキシエタノール 適量
メタリン酸Na 0.01
酸化チタン 1
トリエタノールアミン 2.8
(アクリロイルジメチルタウリンアンモニウム/VP)コポリマー
0.6
合成炭化水素ワックス 2
ポリビニルアルコール 0.05
イオン交換水 残余
成分 配合量(質量%)
グリセリン 2
1,3-ブチレングリコール 8
ジプロピレングリコール 4.2
キサンタンガム 0.1
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー*4 0.03
POE(20)POP(8)セチルエーテル 1
トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 1
セバシン酸ジイソプロピル 2
イソステアリン酸 0.2
メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル 7.5
ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノールメトキシフェニルトリアジン
2
フェニルベンズイミダゾールスルホン酸 3
エチルヘキシルトリアゾン 1
PPG-17 1
架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質粉体 8
エチルパラベン 適量
メチルパラベン 適量
フェノキシエタノール 適量
メタリン酸Na 0.01
酸化チタン 1
トリエタノールアミン 2.8
(ジメチルアクリルアミド/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)
クロスポリマー 0.3
合成炭化水素ワックス 2
ポリビニルアルコール 0.05
イオン交換水 残余
成分 配合量(質量%)
グリセリン 2
1,3-ブチレングリコール 8
ジプロピレングリコール 4.2
キサンタンガム 0.1
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー*4 0.03
POE(20)POP(8)セチルエーテル 1
トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 1
セバシン酸ジイソプロピル 2
イソステアリン酸 0.2
メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル 7.5
ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノールメトキシフェニルトリアジン
2
フェニルベンズイミダゾールスルホン酸 3
エチルヘキシルトリアゾン 1
PPG-17 1
架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質粉体 8
エチルパラベン 適量
メチルパラベン 適量
フェノキシエタノール 適量
メタリン酸Na 0.01
酸化チタン 1
トリエタノールアミン 2.8
結晶セルロース 0.2
合成炭化水素ワックス 2
ポリビニルアルコール 0.05
イオン交換水 残余
Claims (9)
- (A)親油性多孔質粉体
(B)油溶性機能性成分を内包する水中油型乳化粒子
(C)高分子分散剤
(D)水性媒体
を含み、
成分(A)の表面に成分(C)が存在し、
成分(A)及び成分(B)が、成分(D)中にそれぞれ分散し、
成分(B)を含む上層、成分(A)を含む下層、及びその他の成分からなる中間層の3層に分離していること
を特徴とする化粧料。
- (A)親油性多孔質粉体が架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレートを主素材とすることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の化粧料。
- (C)高分子分散剤がアクリル系ポリマーであることを特徴とする、請求項1または2に記載の化粧料。
- (A)親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油可能量が該粉体に対し100質量%以上であることを特徴とする、請求項1~3のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
- さらに粘度100mPa・s以下の油分を含み、該油分が成分(A)の孔の少なくとも一部に保持されていることを特徴とする、請求項1~4のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
- 下記の式を満たすことを特徴とする、請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
[(化粧料中の油分の含有量(質量%)/(化粧料中の親油性多孔質粉体の含有量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
- 25℃における粘度が100000mPa・s以下であることを特徴とする、請求項6に記載の化粧料。
- 成分(B)の油溶性機能性成分が紫外線吸収剤であることを特徴とする、請求項1~7のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
- さらに乳化剤を含むことを特徴とする、請求項1~8のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
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