JP2021084879A - 油中水型乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
油中水型乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2021084879A JP2021084879A JP2019214822A JP2019214822A JP2021084879A JP 2021084879 A JP2021084879 A JP 2021084879A JP 2019214822 A JP2019214822 A JP 2019214822A JP 2019214822 A JP2019214822 A JP 2019214822A JP 2021084879 A JP2021084879 A JP 2021084879A
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- acid
- water
- poe
- cosmetic
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- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 19
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
(A)顔料を含む多層型カプセルと、
(B)分子量1000以下のナトリウム塩と、
(C)極性油と、
を含む油中水型乳化化粧料であって、
(C)極性油以外に非極性油を含む場合には、(C)極性油に対する非極性油の割合が1以下である。
(A)顔料を含む多層型カプセルと、
(B)分子量1000以下のナトリウム塩と、
(C)極性油と、
を含む油中水型乳化化粧料であって、
(C)極性油以外に非極性油を含む場合には、(C)極性油に対する非極性油の割合が1以下であるので、顔料を含む多層型カプセルの潰れを抑制することが可能である。
(A)顔料を含む多層型カプセルと、
(B)分子量1000以下のナトリウム塩と、
(C)極性油と、
を含む油中水型乳化化粧料であって、
(C)極性油以外に非極性油を含む場合には、(C)極性油に対する非極性油の割合が1以下である。
以下、各成分について詳細に説明する。なお、本明細書において、PEGはポリエチレングリコール、PPGはポリプロピレングリコール、EOはエチレンオキサイド、POはプロピレンオキサイド、POEはポリオキシエチレン、POPはポリオキシプロピレン、VPはビニルピロリドンの略である。
顔料を含む多層型カプセル(以下、単に多層型カプセルともいう)は、内部コア若しくは層と1若しくは複数の外部層とを有する構造を有し、種々の顔料が内側部分および外側部分に配置される。多層型カプセルの市販品としては、Biogenics,Inc.によって現在販売されているMAGICOLOR(登録商標)、大東化成工業株式会社によって現在販売されているSugarcapsule Magic SP Series、Tagra Biotechnologyによって現在販売されているTagraCap(商標)、およびSalvona Technologiesによって現在販売されているMicroBeads(商標)が挙げられる。多層型カプセルは、例えば、米国特許出願公開公報US2011/0165208A1(または対応するEP2474299A2、JP2011−529104A、KR10−0978583B1若しくはWO2011/027960A2)(参照によりその内容全体を本明細書中に組み込む)に記載されているように、第1の顔料、可塑剤およびポリマーの溶液を調製し;この溶液を噴霧乾燥して、顔料がポリマーによって被覆されているコア粒子を形成し;これらのコア粒子を、第2の顔料を含む溶液中に分散させ;この分散液を噴霧乾燥して、第2の顔料がポリマーにコーティングされたカプセル粒子を形成することによって製造できる。
分子量1000以下のナトリウム塩(以下、単にナトリウム塩ともいう)としては、食塩、EDTA(エチレンジアミン四酢酸)−3Na等を挙げることができる。汎用性の観点からずれば、食塩、EDTA−3Naが好ましい。なお、ナトリウム塩は、1種を単独で、または2種以上を適宜組み合わせて用いることができる。
(C)極性油は通常、化粧品、医薬品、食品で用いられるものであれば特に限定されるものでない。IOB値は、特に限定されるものではないが、0.05〜0.80であることが好ましい。
なお、IOB値とは、Inorganic/Organic Balance(無機性/有機性比)の略であって、無機性値の有機性値に対する比率を表す値であり、有機化合物の極性の度合いを示す指標となるものである。IOB値は、具体的には、
IOB値=無機性値/有機性値
として表される。ここで、「無機性値」、「有機性値」のそれぞれについては、例えば、分子中の炭素原子1個について「有機性値」が20、同水酸基1個について「無機性値」が100といったように、各種原子または官能基に応じた「無機性値」、「有機性値」が設定されており、有機化合物中の全ての原子および官能基の「無機性値」、「有機性値」を積算することによって、当該有機化合物のIOB値を算出することができる(例えば、藤田著、「化学の領域」第11巻、第10号、第719頁〜第725頁、1957年参照)。
エステル油の具体例としては、ジネオペンタン酸トリプロピレングリコール、イソノナン酸イソノニル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、乳酸セチル、乳酸ミリスチル、酢酸ラノリン、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸コレステリル、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、ジ−2−エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステル、モノイソステアリン酸N−アルキルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリン、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ−2−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリチル、トリエチルヘキサノイン(トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン)、トリオクタン酸グリセリン、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、セチル2−エチルヘキサノエート、2−エチルヘキシルパルミテート、トリミリスチン酸グリセリン、トリ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセライド、ヒマシ油脂肪酸メチルエステル、オレイン酸オレイル、アセトグリセライド、パルミチン酸2−ヘプチルウンデシル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸−2−オクチルドデシルエステル、アジピン酸ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデシル、エチルラウレート、セバシン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、コハク酸2−エチルヘキシル、クエン酸トリエチル等が挙げられる。
ジベンゾイルメタン誘導体としては、4−tert−ブチル−4’ −メトキシジベンゾイルメタン(例えば「パルソール1789」)などが例示される。
ベンゾフェノン誘導体としては、ベンゾフェノン−1(例えば「ユビナール400」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−2(例えば「ユビナールD50」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−3またはオキシベンゾン(例えば「ユビナールM40」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−4(例えば「ユビナールMS40」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−5、ベンゾフェノン−6(例えば「ヘリソーブ(Helisorb)11」;ノルクアイ社)、ベンゾフェノン−8 (例えば「スペクトラ−ソーブ(Spectra-Sorb)UV−24」;アメリカン・シアナミド社)、ベンゾフェノン−9(例えば「ユビナールDS−49」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−12などが例示される。
フェニルベンゾイミダゾール誘導体としては、フェニルベンゾイミダゾールスルホン酸(例えば「ユーソレックス232」;メルク社)、フェニルジベンゾイミダゾールテトラスルホン酸二ナトリウム( 例えば「ネオ・ヘリオパンAP」;ハーマン・アンド・レイマー社)などが例示される。
イミダゾリン誘導体としては、エチルヘキシルジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリンプロピオナートなどが例示される。
4,4−ジアリールブタジエン誘導体としては、1,1−ジカルボキシ(2,2’−ジメチルプロピル)−4,4−ジフェニルブタジエンなどが例示される。
(C)極性油は、1種を単独で使用してもよいし、2種以上を併用してもよい。
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、上記(C)極性油以外の油分、非極性油を含まなくてもよいが、含む場合には、(C)極性油に対する非極性油の割合が1以下である。(C)極性油に対する非極性油の割合は、より好ましくは0.8以下であり、さらには0.6以下であることが好ましい。多層型カプセルは極性を持った油によって安定性が損なわれるが、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料はナトリウム塩を含むので、多層型カプセルが製品中で潰れるという現象を抑制することができるため、(C)極性油に対する非極性油の割合が1以下であっても多層型カプセルを安定に化粧料中に含ませることができる。
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、セチルPEG/PPG10−1ジメチコンをさらに含むことが好ましい。セチルPEG/PPG10−1ジメチコンを含むことで、乳化安定性をより良好なものとすることができる。セチルPEG/PPG10−1ジメチコンは、例えば、市販品として、ABIL EM90、EM180(Evonik Industries AG社)、KF−6038(信越化学工業株式会社)等を用いることができる。
セチルPEG/PPG10−1ジメチコンは、1種を単独で使用してもよいし、2種以上を併用してもよい。
アニオン界面活性剤としては、例えば、脂肪酸セッケン(例えば、ラウリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸ナトリウム等);高級アルキル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸カリウム等);アルキルエーテル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、POE−ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン、POE−ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム等);N−アシルサルコシン酸(例えば、ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム等);高級脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩(例えば、N−ミリストイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸メチルタウリッドナトリウム、ラウリルメチルタウリッドナトリウム等);リン酸エステル塩(POE−オレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、POE−ステアリルエーテルリン酸等);スルホコハク酸塩(例えば、ジ−2−エチルヘキシルスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、モノラウロイルモノエタノールアミドポリオキシエチレンスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、ラウリルポリプロピレングリコールスルホコハク酸ナトリウム等);アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸塩(例えば、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸ナトリウム、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸トリエタノールアミン、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸等);高級脂肪酸エステル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、硬化ヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリン硫酸ナトリウム等);N−アシルグルタミン酸塩(例えば、N−ラウロイルグルタミン酸モノナトリウム、N−ステアロイルグルタミン酸ジナトリウム、N−ミリストイル−L−グルタミン酸モノナトリウム等);硫酸化油(例えば、ロート油等);POE−アルキルエーテルカルボン酸;POE−アルキルアリルエーテルカルボン酸塩;α−オレフィンスルホン酸塩;高級脂肪酸エステルスルホン酸塩;二級アルコール硫酸エステル塩;高級脂肪酸アルキロールアミド硫酸エステル塩;ラウロイルモノエタノールアミドコハク酸ナトリウム;N−パルミトイルアスパラギン酸ジトリエタノールアミン;カゼインナトリウム等が挙げられる。
非極性油を含み、極性油に対する非極性油の割合が1より大きい油中水型乳化化粧料(日焼け止め化粧料、参考例1および2)、また、特許文献1の実施例1(参考例3)と、参考例3の水相を増量した参考例4の化粧料を表1に示す処方で調整した。化粧料の調製は、油および界面活性剤を容器に入れ、組成物が均一になるまでホモジナイザーで混合し、混合後に粉末を加え、組成物を均一になるまでホモジナイザーで混合した。次いで、容器に水相を加え、組成物を再び均一になるまでホモジナイザーで混合し、最後に、層型カプセルを容器に加え、穏やかなサイドスイープによって組成物を混合した。得られた化粧料について、以下に示す基準で、多層型カプセルの潰れの抑制について評価した。
油中水型乳化化粧料である日焼け止め化粧料を表2に示す処方で上記参考例と同様にして調製し、得られた日焼け止め化粧料について、以下に示す基準で、多層型カプセルの潰れの抑制について評価した。
※1:ダックアルギンNSPH(キッコーマンバイオケミファ社製:重量平均分子量30万))
※2:ABIL EM180
※3:ABIL EM90
※4:EP1−CR−50P(大東化成工業社製)
※5:テクポリマー MBP−8HP(積水化成品工業社製)
※6:トスパール 2000B(モメンティブ・パフォーマンス・マテリアルズ・ジャパン社製)
※7:ナイロン SP−500(東レ社製)
※8:シリコーンKF−96A−6T(信越化学社製)
※9:シリコーンKF−96L−1.5CS(信越化学社製)
※10:マジカラー103RP(Biogenics,Inc.:数平均径60μm)
※11:マジカラー103YP(Biogenics,Inc.:数平均径60μm)
※12:マジカラー103BL(Biogenics,Inc.:数平均径60μm)
各例の化粧料を70℃で3日間保管した後、目視で多層型カプセルの潰れの状態を観察し、以下の基準で評価した。
A:多層型カプセルの潰れがほとんどなく、色変化がない
B:多層型カプセルに僅かに潰れが見られ、僅かに色変化が認められる
C:多層型カプセルが潰れ、明確な色変化が起こっている
Claims (10)
- (A)顔料を含む多層型カプセルと、
(B)分子量1000以下のナトリウム塩と、
(C)極性油と、
を含む油中水型乳化化粧料であって、
前記(C)極性油以外に非極性油を含む場合には、前記(C)極性油に対する前記非極性油の割合が1以下である油中水型乳化化粧料。 - 前記(B)ナトリウム塩を化粧料全量に対し0.2〜2質量%含む請求項1記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 前記(C)極性油を化粧料全量に対し6〜40質量%含む請求項1または2記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- セチルPEG/PPG10−1ジメチコンをさらに含む請求項1、2または3記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 前記非極性油が化粧料全量に対し20質量%以下である請求項1〜4いずれか1項記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 前記非極性油中のジメチコンおよび/または環状シリコーン油の含有量が化粧料全量に対し10質量%以下である請求項4または5記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 紫外線散乱剤が化粧料全量に対し10質量%以下である請求項1〜6いずれか1項記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 水相が化粧料全量に対し30質量%以上である請求項1〜7いずれか1項記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 前記(A)顔料を含む多層型カプセルを化粧料全量に対して0.1〜3質量%含む請求項1〜8いずれか1項記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 前記(A)顔料を含む多層型カプセルの数平均径が300μm未満である請求項1〜9いずれか1項記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
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JP2011529104A (ja) * | 2009-09-02 | 2011-12-01 | バイオジェニックス インコーポレイテッド | 化粧品用色調カプセル組成物、この製造方法及びこれを用いた化粧品製剤 |
JP2017515864A (ja) * | 2014-05-19 | 2017-06-15 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 二酸化チタン及び酸化亜鉛による過度の白さが皮膚塗布時に視覚的に隠蔽される日焼け止め製品 |
WO2018117172A1 (ja) * | 2016-12-21 | 2018-06-28 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
JP2018526378A (ja) * | 2015-09-03 | 2018-09-13 | タグラ バイオテクノロジーズ リミテッド | 反射剤を封入したマイクロカプセル |
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JP2017515864A (ja) * | 2014-05-19 | 2017-06-15 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 二酸化チタン及び酸化亜鉛による過度の白さが皮膚塗布時に視覚的に隠蔽される日焼け止め製品 |
JP2018526378A (ja) * | 2015-09-03 | 2018-09-13 | タグラ バイオテクノロジーズ リミテッド | 反射剤を封入したマイクロカプセル |
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