JP5873617B2 - 油中水型乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
油中水型乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP5873617B2 JP5873617B2 JP2009099474A JP2009099474A JP5873617B2 JP 5873617 B2 JP5873617 B2 JP 5873617B2 JP 2009099474 A JP2009099474 A JP 2009099474A JP 2009099474 A JP2009099474 A JP 2009099474A JP 5873617 B2 JP5873617 B2 JP 5873617B2
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- Prior art keywords
- water
- oil
- extract
- emulsified cosmetic
- viscosity
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
しかしながら、さらに、カバー力に優れ、紫外線吸収剤を使用しなくても高い紫外線遮蔽効果を有する低粘度の油中水型乳化化粧料の技術が求められている。
2.油中水型乳化化粧料がファンデーション及び/又は化粧下地であることを特徴とする1.に記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
本発明では、25℃で測定したときの粘度が7,000mPa・s以下であり、肌への塗布時の延びの使用性に優れ、ファンデーション及び/又は化粧下地に適した化粧料を提供することができる。
また、メチルトリメチコン、トレハロースイソステアリン酸エステル及び不溶性粉体を配合することにより、紫外線吸収剤を用いずに、紫外線遮蔽効果が高く、カバー力に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料を実現した。本発明は、耐皮脂性を備えており、乳液状のファンデーション又は化粧下地に適している。紫外線吸収剤を用いずに、高い紫外線遮蔽効果を実現できるので、低皮膚刺激であり、安全性に優れている。
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、紫外線遮蔽効果を有する乳液状のファンデーションや化粧下地等に適する。高含有の不溶性粉体を用いて、高い紫外線遮蔽効果を実現するとともに、高いカバー力を発揮する。
メチルトリメチコンの配合量は5〜30質量%が好ましい。メチルトリメチコンの配合量が5質量%未満であると、粘度の低減効果が得られ難く、30質量%を超えて配合しても、粘度の低減効果はあまり変わらない。
トレハロースイソステアリン酸エステルの配合量は0.1〜5質量%が好ましく、0.3〜2質量%が特に好ましい。トレハロースイソステアリン酸エステルの配合量が0.1質量%未満の場合は、紫外線遮蔽効果を高める効果を発揮させ難く、5質量%を超えて配合すると粘度が高くなりすぎることがある。
不溶性粉体として、シリコーン処理やフッ素処理等を施した表面処理粉体を用いてもよい。また、複数種の不溶性粉体を付着させた複合粉体を用いてもよい。
不溶性粉体として微粒子酸化チタン、微粒子酸化亜鉛等の紫外線遮蔽効果の高い不溶性粉体を用いることが、紫外線遮蔽効果を高めるために好ましい。
不溶性粉体の配合量は、17〜45質量%配合することが好ましく、特に25〜40質量%が好ましい。24質量%以下では、十分な紫外線遮蔽効果並びにメークアップのカバー力を得ることが難しく、40質量%以上では、低粘度の乳液状の剤型を得ることが困難である。
油脂類として、例えば、ツバキ油、月見草油、マカデミアナッツ油、オリーブ油、ナタネ油、トウモロコシ油、ゴマ油、ホホバ油、胚芽油、小麦胚芽油、等の液体油脂、カカオ脂、ヤシ油、硬化ヤシ油、パーム油、パーム核油、モクロウ、モクロウ核油、硬化油、硬化ヒマシ油等の固体油脂、ミツロウ、キャンデリラロウ、綿ロウ、ヌカロウ、ラノリン、酢酸ラノリン、液状ラノリン、サトウキビロウ等のロウ類が挙げられる。
炭化水素類として、例えば、流動パラフィン、スクワレン、スクワラン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス等が挙げられる。
高級脂肪酸として、例えば、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、オレイン酸、リノール酸、リノレン酸、ドコサヘキサエン酸(DHA)、エイコサペンタエン酸(EPA)等が挙げられる。
シリコン油として、例えば、鎖状ポリシロキサンのジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン等、環状ポリシロキサンのデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン等が挙げられる。
カチオン界面活性剤として、例えば、塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム等のアルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩、塩化ベンザルコニウム、塩化ベンゼトニウム等が挙げられる。
両性界面活性剤として、例えば、アルキルベタイン、アミドベタイン等のベタイン系界面活性剤等が挙げられる。
非イオン界面活性剤として、例えば、ソルビタンモノオレエート等のソルビタン脂肪酸エステル類、硬化ヒマシ油誘導体が挙げられる。
糖類、糖アルコール類として、例えば、グルコース、フルクトース、ソルビトール、マルチトール、エリスリトール、トレハロース、スクロース、キシリトール、マルトース、ラクトース等が挙げられる。
増粘剤として、例えば、ベヘン酸エイコサン二酸グリセリル、ステアリン酸デキストリン、イソステアリン酸デキストリン等を挙げることができる。
金属イオン封鎖剤として、例えば、エチレンジアミン四酢酸二ナトリウム、エデト酸、エデト酸ナトリウム塩等のエデト酸塩を挙げることができる。
さらに、カミツレエキス、パセリエキス、ワイン酵母エキス、グレープフルーツエキス、スイカズラエキス、コメエキス、ブドウエキス、ホップエキス、コメヌカエキス、ビワエキス、オウバクエキス、ヨクイニンエキス、センブリエキス、メリロートエキス、バーチエキス、カンゾウエキス、シャクヤクエキス、サボンソウエキス、ヘチマエキス、トウガラシエキス、レモンエキス、ゲンチアナエキス、シソエキス、アロエエキス、ローズマリーエキス、セージエキス、タイムエキス、茶エキス、海藻エキス、キューカンバーエキス、チョウジエキス、ニンジンエキス、マロニエエキス、ハマメリスエキス、クワエキス等の各種抽出物を挙げることができる。
リキッドファンデーション調製翌日にB型粘度計を用いて、ローターNo.3、回転数12rpm、回転時間30秒の条件にて粘度を測定した。
専門パネラーがリキッドファンデーションを顔面に塗布し、延びを以下の基準で評価した。
軽い :リキッドファンデーションとして延びがよく、適切である。
やや軽い:リキッドファンデーションとして延びがややよく、許容できる。
重い :リキッドファンデーションとして延びが重く、許容できない。
リキッドファンデーションを石英板に厚さ25μmで均一に塗布し5分乾燥させた後、人工皮脂(組成:スクワラン、マカデミアナッツ油、コレステロール、オレイン酸)を滴下して状態を観察した。以下の基準により評価した。
○:人工皮脂が濁らない。
×:人工皮脂にリキッドファンデーションが一部溶解し濁る。
International SPF test method published by COLIPA / CTFA SA / JCIA /CTFA (May 2006)の試験法(紫外線源としてキセノン アーク ソーラー シミュレーターを用いたin vivo SPF紫外線防止効果テスト)に従って、実施例2のリキッドファンデーションのSPF値を求めた。実施例1、3、4、比較例1〜5のSPF値は、in vivoテストで求めた実施例2のSPF値を基準として、Labsphere社製UV-1000Sを用いて測定したin vitroテストのSPF値を換算して求めた。
リキッドファンデーションを石英板に厚さ25μmで均一に塗布し乾燥させた後、以下の基準にてカバー力を目視評価した。
○:光を透過せず、十分なカバー力がある。
×:光が透過し、カバー力が不十分である。
実施例4は、比較例4あるいは比較例5と対比すると、A成分のメチルトリメチコンとB成分のトレハロースイソステアリン酸エステルに2つの成分を含有することにより、SPFを大きくすることができ、耐皮脂性を向上させることができることを示している。
Claims (2)
- メチルトリメチコン、トレハロースイソステアリン酸エステル及び不溶性粉体を含有する油中水型乳化化粧料であって、メチルトリメチコンの含有量が5〜30質量%、トレハロースイソステアリン酸エステルの含有量が0.1〜5質量%で、不溶性粉体の含有量が、25〜45質量%、25℃で測定したときの粘度が7,000mPa・s以下であり、SPFが28.3〜33.5であり、紫外線吸収剤を含まないことを特徴とする油中水型乳化化粧料。
- 油中水型乳化化粧料がファンデーション及び/又は化粧下地であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の油中水型乳化化粧料。
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