JP5479664B2 - Makeup cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  In the present invention, an oil agent having a refractive index of more than 1.47 at 20 ° C. is blended in a powder part containing 50 to 100% by mass of a powder having a refractive index of more than 1.5 and less than 2.0 in the total powder. In addition, regarding makeup cosmetics containing colored pigments and / or glittering powders, it has excellent cosmetic effects such as good color development, high saturation or high gloss, and high transparency. In addition, the present invention relates to a makeup cosmetic that has a good feeling of use such as spreading at the time of application, and further maintains a cosmetic effect.

  In recent years, the preference for cosmetics has changed along with changes in the lifestyles and preferences of women. In particular, in makeup cosmetics, the color tone that women demand from cosmetics is extremely diversified. With the advancement of women into society, there is an increasing demand for sustainability of makeup effects. In addition, there is a high preference for cosmetics containing glittering powder as a visual effect, and cosmetics such as various eye colors and foundations have been developed.

In conventional makeup cosmetics, in order to further enhance the cosmetic effect such as color tone, pearly feeling, in other words, good color development, high saturation or high gloss, Technology using powder treated with organic pigment (for example, refer to Patent Document 1). As glittering powder, the surface layer and inner layer of general-purpose mica titanium are coated with multiple layers of silica and the intensity of interference light. There are known methods for enhancing the above (for example, see Patent Document 2). Also disclosed is a technique (for example, Patent Document 3) that uses synthetic mica such that the color tone of the decorative film is not obscured by the promotion of wetting of the decorative film by sebum over time. In addition, makeup cosmetics having a natural transparency have been proposed by combining a synthetic fluorine phlogopite containing an iron atom in a crystal structure and an iron oxide-coated pearlescent pigment. (For example, refer to Patent Document 4) In addition, a technique for suppressing skin gloss with a fine powder having a refractive index of 2.0 or less (for example, refer to Patent Document 5), an oily component having a specific refractive index and a specific refractive index. By combining powder to make the texture of the skin less noticeable while making use of the texture of the skin (for example, see Patent Document 6) and trimellitic acid ester having a high refractive index, the gloss of the cosmetic itself is increased, Techniques for enhancing the gloss of the skin using the same (for example, see Patent Document 7) and cosmetics containing phenyl silicone for enhancing the gloss (for example, see Patent Document 8) are disclosed.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 08-59434 JP 2002-154928 A JP 2000-247630 A JP 2001-335432 A JP-A-10-87471 JP 2000-26232 A JP 2005-350393 A JP 2002-47129 A

  However, the technique described in Patent Document 1 has a problem such as generation of fading under light irradiation, and there are cases where the container or the like needs to be restricted. The technique described in Patent Document 2 is not a technique that can be widely applied to makeup cosmetics in general due to the problem that glare or the like occurs in the cosmetic film and it looks unnatural. Furthermore, the technology of Patent Documents 3 and 4 can realize a transparent cosmetic film, but it is not sufficient for enhancing the cosmetic effect such as color development / saturation and gloss, and maintaining the cosmetic effect. Since the cohesive strength of the synthetic mica itself is low, there is also a problem that the strength is reduced during press molding. Even the technique described in Patent Document 5 is insufficient in enhancing the makeup effect such as color development / saturation and gloss and sustaining the makeup effect. The technique described in Patent Document 6 is a technique that can be used only in solid cosmetics using wax since it contains a large amount of oily components. When a large amount of oily components is added, sebum, sweat, etc. This is not sufficient in terms of sustaining the makeup effect, such as the occurrence of color sinking or twisting of the cosmetic film. Similarly, the techniques described in Patent Documents 7 and 8 require a large amount of oil agent and have a cosmetic effect such as high gloss and transparency, but not only a cosmetic effect such as high coloring and saturation cannot be produced. In addition, the feeling of use such as spreading and spreading at the time of application is impaired, and further, the durability of the makeup effect is insufficient.

  In addition, it is conceivable to increase the amount of oil added to increase the color and saturation of makeup cosmetics, but if the amount of oil is increased, caking may occur at the time of press molding. There have been problems such as becoming worse, and problems such as the loss of makeup due to sebum secretion and the persistence of the makeup effect.

  Therefore, it has a beautiful cosmetic film, that is, a cosmetic effect that has a high cosmetic effect and gloss with high color development and saturation, can maintain the cosmetic effect over time, and also has an excellent feeling of use such as elongation and spread at the time of application. Development of was desired.

  Therefore, as a result of intensive studies in order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that in a makeup cosmetic containing a color pigment and / or glittering powder, the refractive index is more than 1.5 and less than 2.0. By adding an oil agent having a refractive index of more than 1.47 to the powder part containing 50% by mass or more of the total powder, the cosmetic effect such as good color development, high saturation, or gloss is high. It was found that makeup cosmetics having excellent makeup effect sustainability, without feeling strong oily feeling or stickiness, and having good spread and smooth use feeling at the time of application can be obtained. It came to be completed.

That is, the present invention provides the following components (a) to (c);
(A) Powder having a refractive index of more than 1.5 and less than 2.0 (b) Coloring pigment and / or glittering powder (c) A compound having a refractive index of more than 1.47 at 20 ° C. The present invention relates to a makeup cosmetic characterized in that the content of component (a) in the total powder is 50 to 100% by mass.

  As described above in detail, the makeup cosmetic of the present invention has a high cosmetic effect such as coloring, saturation or luster as compared with conventional makeup cosmetics, and is also excellent in transparency, and it is necessary to add a large amount of oil. It is a makeup cosmetic that is excellent in sustainability of the cosmetic effect because it is not present, has a strong oily feeling, and does not feel sticky, and has a smooth spread when applied.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The powder of component (a) used in the present invention is used as a feel adjustment or an excipient while imparting an appropriate cosmetic effect, and has a refractive index of more than 1.5 and less than 2.0. Is the body. Powders with a refractive index of 1.5 or less cannot give a sufficient cosmetic effect, and powders with a refractive index of 2.0 or more have a too high hiding power, and coloring of colored pigments and glittering powders. Each is not preferable. Such a component (a) is preferably a synthetic powder rather than a natural mineral from the viewpoint of transparency of the decorative film, and examples thereof include aluminum oxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, kaolin, talc, mica, and synthetic mica. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more. These may be blended after surface treatment with a commonly known surface treatment agent such as silicone compound, fluorine compound, metal soap, lecithin, surfactant, higher fatty acid and the like.

  Compared to natural minerals that are known to have a dull effect on the color tone of the cosmetic film due to the iron content contained in trace amounts in the powder from the viewpoint of transparency of the cosmetic film. It is preferable to use a powder. When synthetic mica is selected as the component (a), a makeup cosmetic with particularly good spread at the time of application can be obtained. Such synthetic mica may be obtained by any of the intercalation method, hydrothermal method, solid-solid reaction method, melting method and the like described in JP-A-2-149415. Specifically, fluorine phlogopite, synthetic phlogopite, potassium tetrasilicon mica, teniolite, Na teniolite, fluorine vermiculite, fluorine hectorite, and the like can be used, and one or more of them can be used.

As the synthetic phlogopite, a PDM series (manufactured by Topy Industries Co., Ltd.), a micro mica series (manufactured by Corp Chemical Co., Ltd.) or the like can be used as a commercial product.

Although the average particle diameter of a component (a) is not specifically limited, From a viewpoint of the expansion spread at the time of application | coating, 1-30 micrometers is preferable. In the present invention, the average particle diameter is a value obtained by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer.

  As a method for measuring the refractive index, any known method such as a V-block method using a refractometer, a critical angle method, a prism coupling method, a minimum deflection angle method using a spectrometer, or a Becke method may be used. be able to.

  The blending amount of the component (a) in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 20 to 90% by mass (hereinafter abbreviated as “%”). When blended in this range, a makeup cosmetic with particularly good elongation spread and makeup effect can be obtained.

  The component (b) used in the present invention is a color pigment and / or glittering powder, and is blended for the purpose of controlling the color tone of the makeup cosmetics and the gloss and gloss of the cosmetic film. There are no particular limitations as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, and any particle shape, particle diameter, particle surface state, etc. can be used. Component (b) color pigments include bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, ultramarine, bituminous titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conjugate, ultramarine, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, carbon black, titanium / titanium oxide sintered Colored inorganic powders such as red, 201, red 202, red 205, red 226, red 228, orange 203, orange 204, blue 404, yellow 401 Organic pigment powders such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lake such as Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Green No. 3, Blue No. 1, etc. . Bright powders include bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica titanium, organic pigment coated mica titanium, silicic acid / titanium treated mica, silicon dioxide / bengara treated aluminum, aluminum Examples include inorganic powders such as powder, gold powder, silver powder, and titanium oxide-coated glass powder, and flaky aluminum surfaces coated with an organic resin such as polyethylene terephthalate. These may be used alone or in combination. I can do it. In addition, these powders may be used singly or in combination of two or more with known processing agents such as fluorine compounds, silicone compounds, metal soaps, waxes, surfactants, oils and fats, hydrocarbons and the like. A surface treatment may be applied.

  The blending amount of the component (b) in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention varies greatly depending on the target color tone, but is about 0.1 to 15% for the color pigment and 0.1 to 50% for the glittering powder. The degree is preferred.

  The component (c) oil agent used in the present invention is a component that improves the color development and glitter of the component (b), and is an oil agent having a refractive index of greater than 1.47 at 20 ° C. A refractive index of 1.47 or less is not preferable because the color development and glitter of component (b) cannot be improved. Examples of such component (c) include castor oil, lanolin acetate, heavy liquid isoparaffin, polyisobutylene, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, methylphenyl polysiloxane, pentaphenyltrimethylsiloxane, trimellitic acid ester, and the like. One or more of these can be used. Among these, phenylated silicone and trimellitic acid triester are preferable from the viewpoint of elongation spread, and one or more of them can be used.

  Examples of the phenylated silicone include methylphenyl silicone and pentaphenyltrimethylsilicone. Among these, when the pentaphenyltrimethyl silicone represented by the above general formula is used, a makeup cosmetic with particularly excellent color development and glitter can be obtained. As such a pentaphenyltrimethylsilicone, PH-1555 (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.) or the like can be used as a commercially available product.

Moreover, trimellitic acid ester shows the trimester of trimellitic acid which has three carboxyl groups, and alcohol, As alcohol to esterify, a C6-C15 saturated linear alcohol or saturated branched alcohol is mentioned. . Specific examples include trihexyl trimellitic acid, triheptyl trimellitic acid, trioctyl trimellitic acid, trinonyl trimellitic acid, tridecyl trimellitic acid, triundecyl trimellitic acid, tridodecyl trimellitic acid, tritridecyl trimellitic acid, tritetradecyl trimellitic acid, and the like. Among these, when tridecyl trimellitate is used, a makeup cosmetic with particularly excellent color development and glitter can be obtained. Such tridecyl trimellitate is commercially available as LIPONATE.
TDTM (manufactured by Lipochemicals) or the like can be used.

  The blending amount of the component (c) in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the use, but in the solid powder cosmetic, about 5 to 40 parts, generally about 5 to 20 parts of the whole cosmetic is preferable. If the component (c) is 50 parts by weight or more in the oily component that can be blended, the effect of the present invention is particularly preferable. Moreover, in oily cosmetics, about 30-70 parts in cosmetics are oil-based components, and also in oily cosmetics, it is preferable that 50 weight part or more in compounded oil-based components is (c) component.

  In addition to the above essential components, the makeup cosmetics of the present invention include components such as hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, vegetable oils, water hydrating agents, silicone oils, silicone derivatives and the like (c) ) Other oil components, inorganic pigments, organic pigments and extender pigments (a), powders other than (b) and their silicone-treated products and fluorine compound-treated products, surfactants, water and polyhydric alcohols, Aqueous components such as lower alcohols, water-soluble polymers, moisturizers, saccharides, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, preservatives, enzymes, various drugs such as resorcinol and sulfur, refreshing agents, pigments, fragrances, etc. It can mix | blend in the range which does not prevent an effect.

  Specifically, any powder component other than the components (a) and (b) can be used as long as it is a powder used in ordinary cosmetics, such as a spherical shape, a plate shape, and a needle shape. There are no particular restrictions on the shape, the shape of fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc., and the particle structure such as porous and nonporous, etc., and examples include inorganic powders and composite powders. Specific examples include titanium oxide, iron-doped titanium oxide, titanium oxide iron oxide sintered body, cerium oxide, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, zinc oxide, and the like. Or two types can be used. These powders include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydropolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, alkyl-modified silicone, acrylate silicone and other silicone compounds, perfluoropolyether phosphoric acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid, fluorine-modified silicone. The surface treatment may be performed with a conventionally known compound such as a fluorine compound such as zinc soap, metal soap such as zinc laurate, lecithin, ester oil, and wax.

  The oily component other than the component (c) is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil agent used in normal cosmetics, origin of animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil and the like, solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile Regardless of properties such as oil, oil agents such as hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, lanolin derivatives and the like can be mentioned. Specifically, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, molasses, montan wax, Fischer Trops wax, polyethylene wax, liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum and other hydrocarbons, carnauba wax, beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla Natural products such as glyceryl tribehenate, jojoba oil, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, isopropyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl triisostearate, oils such as olive oil and mink oil, lanolin fatty acid Lanolin derivatives such as isopropyl, dimethylpolysiloxane, silicone wax, silicone oil, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasilo Cyclic silicones such as Sun, perfluorodecane, a fluorine-based oils such as perfluorooctane and the like, can be used on these than one or two.

  The makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention can be applied to cosmetics having color tone, luster and luster such as eye color, eyebrow, foundation, blusher, white powder, and base.

  The form of the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has a color tone, gloss and luster as a cosmetic effect, and any of powder, liquid, paste, emulsion, cream, gel, solid, etc. However, it is preferable to use oily cosmetics, powder cosmetics, and solid powder cosmetics because a dosage form containing a large amount of powder provides a remarkable effect. Accordingly, particularly preferred forms are powder, paste, solid and the like.

  The form of the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be any of powder, liquid, paste, emulsion, cream, gel, solid, etc., but the oily cosmetic powder and solid .

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to test examples.

Test Examples 1-3; Colored mixture
A mixture of powder and oil agent having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared by the following method, and each color tone was measured using a glass cell having an inner diameter of 30 mm (spectral color difference meter SE2000 manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.). And the color development of the mixture was evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 1 to 3 are mixed.
B: Components 4 to 6 are added to [A] and dispersed uniformly.

  As shown in Table 1, Test Example 1 has a color tone of the mixture, particularly bluish b value, as compared with Test Example 2 in comparison with Test Example 2, although the blending amount of the ultramarine which is a color pigment is half. The result is low, and it is clear that the blueness of the mixture is strengthened by the blended oil. In Test Example 2, a large amount of powder having a low refractive index is mixed to cause a significant increase in the L value, that is, the mixture is whitish. From these, it can be seen that the effect that the powder mixture of the present invention has high color development is remarkable.

Test Examples 4 to 6: Pearl composition A mixture of glittering powder and oil agent having the composition shown in Table 2 was prepared by the following method, and the angle was changed using a D65 light source with an incident angle of -45 ° against a blackboard as a background. The color was measured with a spectrophotometer (GSP-1B type, manufactured by Murakami Color Engineering Co., Ltd.), the reflectance at 0 ° and 45 ° was measured, and the gloss of the pearl composition was evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 3.

(Manufacturing method)
Components 1 to 5 were mixed, and this was uniformly dispersed in a lacquer with a desper, and then a uniform film was prepared with a 0.4 mm doctor blade to prepare a standard.

  The pearl compositions of Test Examples 4 and 5 which are compositions according to the present invention have a higher reflectance in the specular reflection (45 °) direction than the pearl composition of Test Example 6 in comparison with the reflectance in the 0 ° direction. It has been proven to have excellent makeup effects such as gloss.

  The following examples further illustrate the present invention. In addition, these do not limit this invention at all.

Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2: Solid powder eye color The solid powder eye color having the composition shown in Tables 3 and 4 was adjusted by the following production method. "(B) Elongation and spreadability when applied", "(C) Smooth feeling of use", "(D) Sustainability of cosmetic effect over time" Evaluation was made based on the judgment criteria, and the results are shown in Table 3.

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 1 to 18 are mixed.
B: Add components 19 to 24 to [A] and uniformly disperse.
C: [B] was press-molded into a metal pan to obtain a solid powder eye color.

[Evaluation methods and criteria]
20 cosmetic panelists used the solid powder eye colors of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and “(I) Cleanness of color of cosmetic film” and “(B) When applied. "Elongation and spread", "(c) Smooth feeling of use" and "(D) Persistence of makeup effect over time" for each eye color according to the following evaluation criteria And the average score of all panels was determined according to the following criteria.

(Evaluation criteria)
Evaluation result: Score
Very good: 5 points
Good: 4 points
Normal: 3 points
Slightly bad: 2 points
Defect: 1 point (criteria)
Average score of all panels: Judgment
4.5 or more: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5 points:: ○
2.0 or more and less than 3.5 points::
Less than 2.0 points: ×

  As shown in Tables 3 and 4, the solid powder eye colors of Examples 1 to 5, which are the products of the present invention, are “(I) Cleanness of coloring of cosmetic film”, “(B) The cosmetics were excellent in all the items of “elongation and spreadability”, “(c) smooth use feeling”, and “(d) persistence of makeup effect over time”. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 which does not contain any oil agent having a refractive index of greater than 1.47 at 20 ° C. has poor color development and low cosmetic effect. Further, Comparative Example 2 with few powders having a refractive index of more than 1.5 and less than 2.0 in the blended powder also had poor color development and low cosmetic effect.

Example 6: Powder foundation (component) (%)
1. The remaining amount of talc Sericite 20
3. Fluorophlogopite 30
4). Titanium oxide 10
5. Titanium oxide / iron oxide sintered product 3
6). Zinc oxide 2
7). Plate-like barium sulfate 5
8). (Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane)
Cross polymer * 11 3
9. Nylon powder 2
10. Bengala 0.3
11. Yellow iron oxide 1
12 Black iron oxide 0.2
13. Silicon dioxide / Bengara treated aluminum 2
14 Trioctyl trimellitate * 12 5
15. Methylphenyl polysiloxane * 13 3
16. Paramethoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl 3
17. Heavy liquid isoparaffin 2
18. Dioctyl succinate 2

* 11 KSP-100 Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
* 12 Kurodamol TOTM made by Croda
* 13 Silicon KF-54 manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 1 to 13 are mixed and dispersed.
B: Add components 14 to 18 dissolved by heating to [A] and mix and disperse.
C: [B] was press-molded into a metal pan to obtain a solid powder powder foundation.
The powder foundation of Example 6, which is an embodiment of the present invention, has “(I) Cleanliness of coloring of cosmetic film”, “(B) Elongation and spreadability when applied”, “(C) Smooth feeling of use” ”And“ (d) Sustainability of makeup effect over time ”.

Example 7: Face powder (ingredient) (%)
1. The remaining amount of talc Sericite 10
3. Fluorophlogopite 50
4). Fluorine phlogopite 10
5. Zinc oxide 2
6). (Diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone /
Silsesquioxane) Crosspolymer 5
7). Silicic anhydride (spherical) 2
8). Red 226 0.3
9. Ultramarine 0.2
10. Bengala coated mica titanium 5
11. Titanium oxide coated glass powder 5
12 Preservative appropriate amount13. Tridecyl trimellitate 1
14 Pentaphenyltrimethyltrisiloxane 3
15. (Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone) Cross Polymer 0.5
16. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 1

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 1 to 12 are mixed and dispersed.
B: The components 13 to 16 which are uniformly mixed are added to [A] and mixed and dispersed.
C: [B] was filled in a container to obtain a powdery face powder.
The face powder of Example 7, which is an embodiment of the present invention, has the following features: “(I) Cleanliness of coloring of cosmetic film”, “(B) Good elongation and spread when applied”, “(C) Smooth feeling of use” ”And“ (d) Sustainability of makeup effect over time ”.

Example 8: Oily eye color (component) (%)
1. Titanium oxide 2
2. Fluorotetrasilicon mica 20
3. Spherical polymethyl methacrylate powder 5
4). Silicic anhydride (spherical) 2
5. Yellow iron oxide 1.5
6). Ultramarine 1.5
7). Black iron oxide 0.2
8). Mica titanium 15
9. Preservative appropriate amount10. 10. remaining tridecyl trimellitate Pentaphenyltrimethyltrisiloxane 10
12 Paramethoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl 3
13. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 3
14 Dimethylpolysiloxane 3
14 Ceresin wax 4
15. Polyethylene wax 5
16. Microcrystalline wax 3

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 10 to 16 are heated to 85 ° C. and mixed and dissolved.
B: Components 1 to 9 are added to [A] and uniformly dispersed.
C: [B] was heated to a saturation of 85 ° C. and filled in a metal pan to obtain an oily eye color.
The oily eye color of Example 8, which is an embodiment of the present invention, is “(I) Cleanness of color of cosmetic film”, “(B) Elongation and spreadability when applied”, “(C) Smooth use. The cosmetics were excellent in all items of “feel” and “(d) persistence of makeup effect over time”.

Claims (4)

The following components (a) to (c);
(A) Powder containing synthetic mica and having a refractive index of more than 1.5 and less than 2.0 (however, it does not include the colored pigment and / or glittering powder of component (b))
(B) Colored pigment and / or glitter powder (c) One or more selected from pentaphenyltrimethylsilicone and / or trimellitic acid triester represented by the following general formula (1), at 20 ° C. In the case where an oil agent having a refractive index exceeding 1.47 is blended, the blending amount of the component (a) in the cosmetic is 20 to 90% by mass, and the blending amount of the component (b) is 0.1. -15% by mass, 0.1 to 50 % by mass in the case of glittering powder, and make-up characterized in that the content of component (c) in the total oil of cosmetics is 50% by mass or more Cosmetics.
  The makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the trimellitic acid triester of component (c) is a triester of trimellitic acid and decyl alcohol.   The makeup cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the blending weight ratio of the total oil agent and the total powder is 5:95 to 40:60.   The makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a solid powder cosmetic.