JP5770488B2 - Oily stick-like lip cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a stick-shaped lip cosmetic containing rice bran wax, and more particularly to a lip cosmetic capable of obtaining a crumbly light feeling of use, good color development, good adhesion, and uniformity of a cosmetic film.

  Lip cosmetics represented by lipstick and lip gloss have a cosmetic effect of imparting color to the lips and finishing it in a gorgeous impression. In recent years, lip cosmetics have been required to have various effects such as touch and usability in addition to imparting color, and various studies have been made on waxes, oils, and powders that are constituents thereof. I came. For example, a technique for improving shape retention even with a small amount of wax by containing rice bran wax (Patent Document 1), and a long-chain acylamino acid sterol derivative containing a specific hardness range, Technology that satisfies both freshness and sustainability of moisture (Patent Document 2) at the same time, and also contains branched fatty acid and pentaerythritol ester to a specific hardness range, high temperature stability and good releasability and color development And a technique that satisfies both of these requirements (Patent Document 3).

  However, in the technology that improves the shape retention even with a small amount of wax by containing rice bran wax, it is excellent in lightness and gloss, but a sufficient coating amount cannot be obtained, and a cosmetic film that develops color by coating once is obtained. I was not satisfied with the point. In addition, by including a long chain acylamino acid sterol derivative and making it into a specific hardness range, a makeup sustaining effect and a moisturizing feeling can be obtained with respect to a technology that satisfies the durability and moisturizing feeling of a long-lasting makeup and a fresh luster at the same time. However, since the spread becomes heavy, a satisfactory one in terms of usability was not obtained. Furthermore, by containing branched fatty acid and pentaerythritol ester within a specific hardness range, improved color developability can be obtained in technologies that satisfy both high temperature stability, good releasability and good color development. However, no satisfactory product was obtained in that the cosmetic film was sticky and felt uncomfortable during use.

JP 2009-179564 A JP 2009-234991 A JP 2009-234992 A

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an oily stick upper lip cosmetic capable of producing a crumbly light feeling of use, good color development, good adhesion, and uniformity of a cosmetic film. . In addition, when the cosmetic spreads on the lips, the stick-like cosmetic has a proper adhesion between the skin and the crumble so as to collapse. It is a sense of sticking to the skin while having thickness.

  Under such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted extensive research to solve the above problems, and as a result, combined specific waxes, i.e., rice bran wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, and candelilla wax, with long-chain acylamino acid sterol derivatives, When rice bran wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax are included in a specific ratio, it has a shape-retaining property as a stick, and a good feeling of use and good adhesion can be obtained. The amount of the cosmetic applied to the lips is increased, and it has been found that an oily lip cosmetic capable of obtaining sufficient color development and a uniform cosmetic film by coating once is obtained, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention
The following components (A), (B), (C) and (D)
(A) Rice bran wax (B) Fischer-Tropsch wax (C) Candelilla wax (D) A long-chain acylamino acid sterol derivative, wherein component (A) and component (B) are (A) :( B) = 65: 35 The present invention relates to an oily stick-like lip cosmetic having a mass ratio of ˜95: 5 and containing 1 to 10% by mass of component (D).

  The present invention relates to an oily stick-like lip cosmetic capable of producing a crushed and light feeling of use, good color development, good adhesion, and uniformity of a cosmetic film.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The rice bran wax of component (A) used in the oily stick-like lip cosmetic of the present invention has the INCI name (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient labeling name) and is used for dewaxing or wintering when purifying rice bran oil extracted from rice bran. This is a refined crude wax produced in the ring process. The main components are esters of higher fatty acids and higher alcohols, but they also contain unsaponifiable substances, a small amount of free fatty acids and some hydrocarbons. The melting point of component (A) rice bran wax is not particularly limited, but is preferably 70 to 83 ° C. If it is this range, what produces the good adhesion and the uniformity of the decorative film can be obtained. Examples of commercially available products include FLORA BEADS RBW (melting point: 77 ° C., manufactured by Ikeda Bussan Co., Ltd.), refined rice wax S-100 (melting point: 80 ° C., manufactured by Yokoseki Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.), TOWAX-3P3 (melting point: 75 ° C., manufactured by Toa Chemical Industries ) And the like. The component (A) is preferably contained in the cosmetic of the present invention in an amount of 5 to 12% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”). Within this range, satisfactory results can be obtained in terms of good color development and good adhesion.

  The component (B) Fischer-Tropsch wax used in the oily stick-like lip cosmetic of the present invention is a synthetic hydrocarbon wax produced by the Fischer-Tropsch method. The melting point of component (B) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 70 to 120 ° C. If it is this range, the thing which produces the ease of use and the adhesion | attachment with the lightness which will collapse may be obtained. Examples of commercially available products include SASOLWAX C80 (melting point: 83 ° C.), SASOLWAX H1 (melting point: 97 ° C., manufactured by SASOL), CIREBELLE108 (melting point: 81 ° C.), CIREBELLE109L (melting point: 93 ° C., manufactured by CIREBELLE). The component (B) preferably has a content in the cosmetic of the present invention of 0.4 to 4%. Within this range, satisfactory results can be obtained in terms of good color development and good adhesion.

  The component (C) candelilla wax used in the oily stick-like lip cosmetic of the present invention is an ester fraction obtained by fractionating candelilla wax and has a saponification value of 70 to 100. . Although melting | fusing point is not restrict | limited in particular, The thing of 70 to 85 degreeC is preferable. If it is in this range, a satisfactory one can be obtained in terms of producing good color development. Examples of commercially available products include high melting point candelilla wax FR100 (melting point 80 ° C., manufactured by Nippon Natural Products). The content of the component (C) in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 3%. Within this range, satisfactory results can be obtained in terms of good color development and good adhesion.

  In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, commercially available mixtures of the component (B) Fischer-Tropsch wax and the component (C) candelilla wax may be used. As a commercial product of this mixture, Fischer-Tropsch wax (melting point 79-84 ° C.) and candelilla wax (melting point 83 ° C.), SMART WAX 7743S (melting point 78 ° C.-85 ° C., manufactured by Nippon Natural Products Co., Ltd.), etc. Is mentioned.

In the oily stick-like lip cosmetic of the present invention, the component (A) rice bran wax and (B) Fischer-Tropsch wax are contained in a mass ratio of (A) :( B) = 65: 35 to 95: 5. If it is in this range, a satisfactory one can be obtained in terms of producing a light and easy-to-use feel, good adhesion, and uniformity of the decorative film. If the amount of component (A) is too large, the cosmetic becomes hard and the amount applied to the skin decreases, making it difficult to obtain sufficient color. On the other hand, if the amount of the component (B) is too much, the core of the cosmetic will be hardened and will adhere to the skin as if it slips upward, so that it will not be possible to obtain a light and comfortable use feeling that will collapse.

  In the present invention, the total content of the components (A), (B), (C) and other waxes is 7.5 to 12.5% or less, more than 8% and 12.5% or less. It is preferable. Within this range, satisfactory results can be obtained in terms of maintaining the shape of the stick, a light and easy-to-use feel, and the uniformity of the decorative film.

  The long-chain acylamino acid sterol derivative of component (D) used in the oily stick-like lip cosmetic of the present invention is composed of a long-chain acylamino acid such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, sterols such as cholesterol and phytosterol, and behenyl alcohol. And diesters with higher alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol. Specific examples of such a long-chain acylamino acid sterol derivative include N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (octyldodecyl phytosteryl behenyl) or N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl). Examples of commercially available products include Erdeu PS-203 and PS-306 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.). The content of component (D) is preferably 1 to 10%, more preferably 5 to 10%. If it is in this range, there will be no stickiness, and a satisfactory product will be obtained in terms of ease of use, lightness that will collapse, and good color development.

  In addition to the components (A) to (D) described above, the lip cosmetic of the present invention includes components usually used in cosmetics, alkali agents, hydrocarbons, esters, vegetable oils, water-holding oils, silicone oils, and silicone derivatives. Such as oily components such as inorganic pigments, organic pigments and dyes, and those treated with silicone and fluorine compounds, surfactants, fibers, polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble polymers, water-soluble film-forming resins, Aqueous components such as humectants, saccharides, ultraviolet absorbers, anti-fading agents, antioxidants, antifoaming agents, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, fragrances and the like can be contained within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention.

The oil component is a component other than the components (A) to (D) and is a solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile oil, etc. of origin such as animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil and the like generally used in cosmetics Regardless of the properties, hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents, etc. Is mentioned.
The waxes other than the components (A) to (C) are not particularly limited as long as they are usually used in cosmetics. Specifically, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax , Hydrogenated microcrystalline wax, montan wax, polyisobutylene, ceresin wax, ozokerite wax, owl, beeswax, gay wax, carnauba wax and the like.
Other oil components include hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polybutene, oils such as olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil, jojoba oil, glyceryl trioctanoate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, Diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid ester, phytosterol fatty acid ester , Esters of triglyceride, diisostearyl malate, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid Fatty acids, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and other higher alcohols, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, trimethylsiloxy Silicic acid, high degree of polymerization methylphenyl polysiloxane, cross-linked polyether modified methyl polysiloxane, oleyl modified organopolysiloxane, behenyl modified organopolysiloxane, high degree of polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, alkoxy modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine modified organopolysiloxane Fluorine oils such as silicones such as perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, and perfluoropolyether Lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin alcohol, sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, dextrin fatty acid ester, aluminum isostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, etc. One or more of these can be used.

  As a powder component, if it is a powder used as a powder generally used in cosmetics, a spherical shape, a plate shape, a needle-like shape, a haze shape, a fine particle, a particle size such as a pigment class, a porous material, It is not particularly limited by the particle structure such as non-porous, and examples thereof include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, and composite powders. Specifically, white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, barium sulfate, iron oxide, carbon black, titanium / titanium oxide sintered product, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen, ultramarine blue, etc. Colored inorganic pigments, talc, muscovite, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite (sericite), synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, silicic anhydride, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide White body powders such as zirconium oxide, antimony oxide, diatomaceous earth, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, Titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride Iron oxide mica titanium, bituminized mica titanium, carmine-treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polyolefin laminated film powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated film powder, etc. Bright powder, polyamide resin, polyethylene resin, polyacrylic resin, polyester resin, fluorine resin, cellulose resin, polystyrene resin, copolymer resin such as styrene-acrylic copolymer resin, polypropylene resin, urethane Organic polymer resin powders such as resins, organic low molecular weight powders such as zinc stearate and N-acyl lysine, natural organic powders such as silk powder and cellulose powder, red 201, red 202 and red 205 Red No. 226, Red No. 228, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Blue No. 404, Yellow No. 401, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Organic pigment powders such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes such as green No. 3 and blue No. 1, or metal powders such as aluminum powder, gold powder and silver powder, fine titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine zinc oxide coated mica titanium, sulfuric acid Examples thereof include composite powders such as barium-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and fibers such as nylon, polyester, rayon, and cellulose. These may be surface-treated with a fluorine compound, silicone oil, powder, oil agent, gelling agent, emulsion polymer, surfactant or the like. These powders can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and may be further combined.

As the surfactant, any surfactant that is generally used in cosmetics can be used. Nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, etc. Is mentioned.
The aqueous component may be any component that is soluble in water. In addition to water, for example, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, aloe vera, witch. Plant extracts such as hazel, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, rose water and the like can be mentioned.
Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone, PABA, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, and the like.
Examples of the antioxidant include α-tocopherol and ascorbic acid, examples of the cosmetic component include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, herbal medicines, and examples of the preservative include paraoxybenzoic acid ester, phenoxyethanol, and 1,2-pentadiol. Can be mentioned.

Lip cosmetics of the present invention include lipsticks, lip glosses, lipstick base coats, lipstick overcoats, lip balms, lip treatments, etc., but are particularly suitable for lipsticks and lip glosses used for the purpose of coloring the lips. is there.
The oily stick-like lip cosmetic of the present invention has a stick-like shape in which a wax, a semisolid oil agent, or an oily component that is an oil-soluble compound is solidified into a stick shape, and is oily and water-in-oil type. However, it is preferable that the oily component has a water content of 1% or less and is substantially free of water.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.
Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6: Lipsticks Lipsticks were produced by the formulation shown in Table 1 and the production method shown below. For each lipstick obtained, the following evaluation methods were used to evaluate (a) a light and easy-to-use feel, (b) good color development, (c) good adhesion, and (d) uniformity of the cosmetic film. . The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1: TOWAX-3P3 (manufactured by Toa Kasei)
* 2: CIREBELLE108 (CIREBELLE)
* 3: High melting point candelilla wax FR100 (manufactured by Nippon Natural Products)
* 4: PERFORMALENE 500 (melting point: 83-92 ° C, manufactured by New Phase Technology)
* 5: El Dew PS-306 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co.)
* 6: AEROSIL300 (Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.)
* 7: FLAMENCO SPARKLE GOLD220J (manufactured by BASF)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (9) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C to 110 ° C.
B: Components (10) to (16) are added to A and mixed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 100 ° C. and then poured directly into a stick-shaped lipstick container, and after cooling, a lipstick was obtained.

(Evaluation method)
About the item of (a)-(d), the use test by 20 expert panels was done about each sample. Each sample was applied to the lips once, and each panel member evaluated it according to the following absolute evaluation in 6 grades, given a score, calculated the average value from the total score of all the panel members, and judged according to the following 4 criteria. .
In addition, evaluation item (a) evaluated the touch at the time of application, and evaluation items (b) to (d) evaluated the decorative film after application. Evaluation item (b) evaluated whether sufficient coloring was obtained with a decorative film once applied.

<Evaluation items>
(A) Light and easy-to-use feeling that breaks down (b) Good color development (c) Good adhesion (d) Uniformity of cosmetic film <6-step absolute evaluation>
(Score): (Evaluation)
5: Very good 4: Good 3: Somewhat good 2: Normal 1: Somewhat bad 0: Bad <4 step criteria>
◎: 4 points or more: Very good ○: 3 points or more and less than 4 points: Good △: 1.5 points or more and less than 3 points: Slightly poor ×: Less than 1.5 points: Bad

As is clear from Table 1, Examples 1 to 9 of the present invention all have a lighter feeling of use, color development, good adhesion, and uniformity of the cosmetic film than the Comparative Examples 1 to 6. The point was satisfactory.
On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 which does not contain the component (A) rice bran wax, the lipstick becomes soft, the lightness of the crumble is not obtained, the uniform film cannot be obtained, the good adhesion and the uniformity of the decorative film I couldn't get anything that was satisfactory. Further, in Comparative Example 2 which does not contain the component (B) Fischer-Tropsch wax, the lipstick was slightly hardened, so that a satisfactory one was not obtained in terms of a light and easy-to-use feeling that collapsed. Further, in Comparative Example 3 that does not contain the component (C) candelilla wax, the lipstick itself is soft, but it slips up when applied to the lips, and the cosmetic film does not form well, but once applied, the color is developed. The film was not satisfactory. Further, in Comparative Example 4 which does not contain the long-chain acylamino acid sterol derivative of component (D), the cosmetic film has a strong stickiness, which is satisfactory in terms of a light feeling of use and a good color development. There wasn't. Further, in Comparative Example 5 in which the content ratio of the component (A) was too high, the lipstick became very hard and a satisfactory color development was not obtained. Furthermore, in Comparative Example 6 in which the content ratio of the component (B) was too high, a satisfactory lipstick was not obtained in terms of a light and easy-to-use feeling that would harden and collapse.

Example 10: Lip gloss (component) (%)
1. Rice bran * 1 6
2. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 2 2
3. Candelilla wax * 3 0.5
4. Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 10
5. Polybutene 20
6). Heavy liquid isoparaffin * 8 5
7). Lauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) * 5 5
8). Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5
9. Acetic acid liquid lanolin 10
10. 10. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining amount Diisostearyl malate 10
12 Silylated silica anhydride * 9 1
13. Red No. 202 0.05
14 Borosilicate (Ca / Al) * 10 5
15. Polyethylene terephthalate, aluminum,
Epoxy laminated powder * 11 1
16. Mica titanium * 7 5
17. Rosemary extract 0.1
18. Fragrance 0.1
* 8: Pearl Dream 24 (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
* 9: AEROSILR972 (made by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.)
* 10: Metashine 1080RC-Y (Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.)
* 11: Aluminum flake silver 0.15 mm (manufactured by Kakuhachi Fish Foil Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (11) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (12) to (18) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 100 ° C. and then poured directly into a stick-like lipstick container, and after cooling, lip gloss was obtained.
The lip gloss of Example 10 of the present invention was satisfactory in all respects such as a crumbly light feeling of use, good color development, good adhesion, and uniformity of the decorative film.

Example 11: Lip balm (ingredient) (%)
1. Rice bran * 1 5
2. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 2 2
3. Candelilla wax * 3 2
4). Decaisostearate polyglyceryl 1
5. Lauroyl glutamate di
(Phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) * 14 5
6). Vaseline 6
7). α-Olefin oligomer * 15 5
8). 8. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining 9. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
10. Zinc oxide 1
11. Titanium oxide 0.1
12 Yellow No.4 0.1
13. Hyaluronic acid 0.1
* 14: El Dew PS-203 (Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)
* 15: SILKFLO 364NF (manufactured by LIPO CHEMICALS INC)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (9) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (10) to (13) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 100 ° C. and then poured into a stick-shaped lipstick container. After cooling, lip balm was obtained.
The lip balm of Example 11 of the present invention was satisfactory in all respects such as a crumble and light use feeling, good adhesion, and uniformity of the cosmetic film.

Example 12: W / O type lip balm (component) (%)
1. Rice bran * 1 5
2. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 2 2
3. Candelilla wax * 3 2
4). Decaisostearate polyglyceryl 1
5. Lauroyl glutamate di
(Phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) * 14 5
6). Vaseline 6
7). Dimethylpolysiloxane 5
8). 8. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining 9. PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 3
10. Purified water 10
11.1,3-butylene glycol 5
12 Red 226 0.01
13. Tocopherol acetate 0.1
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (9) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (10) to (13) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 100 ° C. and then poured into a stick-shaped lipstick container. After cooling, lip balm was obtained.
The W / O lip balm of Example 12 of the present invention was satisfactory in all respects such as a crumble and light use feeling, good adhesion, and uniformity of the decorative film.

Claims (3)

The following components (A), (B), (C) and (D);
(A) Rice bran;
(B) Fischer-Tropsch wax;
(C) candelilla wax;
(D) a long chain acylamino acid sterol derivative;
The mass ratio of the component (A) to the component (B) is (A) :( B) = 65: 35 to 95: 5, and the component (A) is contained in an amount of 5 to 12% by mass. , oily stick lip cosmetic, characterized in that it contains 1 to 10 wt% of component (D).   The oily stick-like lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the total wax content in the cosmetic is 7.5 to 12.5% by mass. The component (D) is N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (octyldodecyl phytosteryl behenyl) and / or N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl). Or the oily stick-like lip cosmetic described in 2.