JP2020079220A - 固形粉末化粧料 - Google Patents
固形粉末化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2020079220A JP2020079220A JP2018213805A JP2018213805A JP2020079220A JP 2020079220 A JP2020079220 A JP 2020079220A JP 2018213805 A JP2018213805 A JP 2018213805A JP 2018213805 A JP2018213805 A JP 2018213805A JP 2020079220 A JP2020079220 A JP 2020079220A
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- Prior art keywords
- powder
- cosmetic
- solid powder
- silicone
- component
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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- CEGOLXSVJUTHNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-K aluminium tristearate Chemical compound [Al+3].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O CEGOLXSVJUTHNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
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- HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon carbide Chemical compound [Si+]#[C-] HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910010271 silicon carbide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004945 silicone rubber Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000020238 sunflower seed Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L terephthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
融点25〜55℃のシリコーンワックスとしては、シリコーン変性アクリルポリマー、アルキル変性シリコーン、脂肪族アルコール変性シリコーンなどを用いることができる。これらのうち、使い切り性の観点から、シリコーン変性アクリルポリマーが好ましい。また、使用感の点から、融点25〜40℃のシリコーンワックスが好ましい。
試料を約10mg秤量し、アルミニウム試料パン中に入れる。このパンにアルミニウムカバーを取り付け、示差走査熱量計「DSC6200」(日立ハイテクサイエンス社製、製品名)中に設置する。窒素ガス流量20mL/minのもと試料及び基準資料を−10℃で1分間保持した後、速度5℃/minで−10℃から100℃まで昇温させることにより、融解吸熱カーブを得る。この融解吸熱カーブのピーク温度を融点(Tm)として採用する。
ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末としては、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを微粉砕して得たポリエチレンテレフタレート微粉砕粉末を用いることができる。
球状弾性粉体としては、通常化粧料に配合されるものを用いることができ、例えば、シリコーン球状弾性粉体、ポリウレタン球状弾性粉末、ポリアクリル酸アルキル球状弾性粉体等が挙げられる。
スポンジで固形粉末化粧料の表面を一定方向に10回転又は一方向に10回なでた。その後、ペーパータオルで塗布具についた化粧料を拭いた。これらの操作を樹脂皿の底面が8割程度見えるようになるまで繰り返したときの固形粉末化粧料の状態を目視にて観察し、下記評価基準に従って4段階評価を行いサンプル毎に評点を付した。
[評価基準]
4点:底面が8割以上見えるまで使用可能、その後も崩壊しない
3点:底面が4〜7割程度見えるまで使用可能だが、その後連続的に崩壊し使用不可
2点:底面が1〜3割程度見えるまで使用可能だが、その後連続的に崩壊し使用不可
1点:底面が見える以前に崩壊し、その後も連続的に崩壊し使用不可
[判定基準(評点の平均点)]
◎:3.5以上
○:3.0以上〜3.5未満
△:2.0以上〜3.0未満
×:2.0未満
各固形粉末化粧料のサンプルを、内容物が上向きとなる向きで、50cmの高さからPタイル上に10回落下させた後の状態を目視にて観察し、下記評価基準に従って4段階評価を行いサンプル毎に評点を付した。
[評価基準]
4点:変化無し
3点:若干浮き、欠け、割れが生じるが問題なし
2点:部分的に浮き、欠け、割れがある
1点:全体的に浮き、欠け、割れがある
[判定基準(評点の平均点)]
◎:3.5以上
○:3.0以上〜3.5未満
△:2.0以上〜3.0未満
×:2.0未満
スポンジで固形粉末化粧料の表面を一定方向に10回転又は一方向に10回なでた。その後、ペーパータオルで塗布具についた化粧料を拭いた。これらの操作を10回繰り返した後、固形粉末化粧料のケーキングの有無を目視にて確認し、下記評価基準に従って4段階評価を行いサンプル毎に評点を付した。
[評価基準]
4点:固形粉末化粧料の表面に異常は認められない
3点:固形粉末化粧料の表面がわずかに固まるが、スポンジで取れる状態である
2点:固形粉末化粧料の表面が多少固まるが、スポンジで取れる状態である
1点:固形粉末化粧料の表面が固まり、化粧料が全く取れない状態である
[判定基準(評点の平均点)]
◎:3.5以上
○:3.0以上〜3.5未満
△:2.0以上〜3.0未満
×:2.0未満
化粧品評価専門パネル20名に、固形粉末化粧料のサンプルをスポンジで使用してもらい、「仕上がりの均一性」及び「肌の凹凸の無さ」について、各自が以下の評価基準に従って5段階評価を行いサンプル毎に評点を付した。
[評価基準]
5:非常に良い
4:良い
3:普通
2:悪い
1:非常に悪い
[判定基準(評点の平均点)]
◎:4以上
○:3以上〜4未満
△:2以上〜3未満
×:2未満
示差走査熱量計(DSC)として日立ハイテクサイエンス社製DSC6200を用い、以下の手順で融点を測定した。まず、試料を約10mg秤量し、アルミニウム試料パン中に入れた。このパンにアルミニウムカバーを取り付け、示差走査熱量計中に設置した。窒素ガス流量20mL/minのもと試料および基準資料を−10℃で1分間保持した後、速度5℃/minで−10℃から100℃まで昇温させることにより融解吸熱カーブを得た。得られた融解吸熱カーブにおけるピーク温度を融点(Tm)とした。
表1〜3に示す組成のファンデーションを以下の製法により調製し、上記の評価を行った。その結果を併せて表1〜3に示す。
成分1〜15の粉体成分をヘンシェルミキサーで均一に分散し、混合物Iを得た。成分16〜25を70℃に加温し均一に分散し、分散物IIを得た。混合物Iをヘンシェルミキサーで撹拌しながら、ここに分散物IIを添加し均一分散した。これをパルペライザーで粉砕し、化粧料基材を得た。この化粧料基材を樹脂皿へ充填し、プレス機で圧縮成形を行い、粉末固形化粧料を作製した。
*2:スノーリーフPF(オーケン社製、製品名、板状ポリエチレンフタレート、平均粒子径20μm)
*3:CS−400(東色ピグメント社製、製品名、平均粒子径15μm)
*4:KSP−300(信越化学工業社製、製品名、平均粒子径5μm)
*5:雲母チタン(平均粒径3.0〜10.0μm)
*6:雲母チタン(平均粒径18.0〜25.0μm)
*7:KP561P(信越化学工業社製、製品名、(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸ステアリル/メタクリル酸ジメチコン)コポリマー、融点25〜35℃)
*8:KP562P(信越化学工業社製、製品名、(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸ベヘニル/メタクリル酸ジメチコン)コポリマー、融点45〜55℃)
*9:BELSIL SDM 5055VP(旭化成ワッカーシリコーン社製、製品名、ステアリルジメチコン、融点30℃)
*10:エコナSP45(花王社製、製品名、ヤシ系硬化油、融点45℃)
*11:Plandool−G(日本精化社製、製品名)
(成分) (配合割合(質量%))
1. タルク 残余
2. マイカ 15
3. 合成金雲母鉄 10
4. PET粉末*1 10
5. 窒化ホウ素 8
6. 微粒子酸化チタン 9
7. 非弾性球状ナイロンパウダー 7
8. 弾性球状ウレタンパウダー*7 2
9. 弾性球状シリコーンパウダー*12 5
10.雲母チタン*5 3
11.フッ素化合物処理酸化チタン 2
12.金属石鹸処理酸化鉄 3
13.トリエチルヘキサノイン 4.5
14.ジメチコン 1
15.ペンタイソステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル 1.7
16.シリコーン変性アクリルポリマー*13 3.5
17.防腐剤 0.3
18.酸化防止剤 0.02
*12:KSP−411(信越化学工業社製、製品名、平均粒子径30μm)
*13:BELSIL SDM 3526VP(旭化成ワッカーシリコーン社製、製品名、ステアリルジメチコン、融点35℃)
成分1〜12の粉体成分をヘンシェルミキサーで均一に分散し、混合物Iを得た。成分13〜18を70℃に加温し均一に分散し、分散物IIを得た。混合物Iをヘンシェルミキサーで撹拌しながら、ここに分散物IIを添加し均一分散した。これをパルペライザーで粉砕し、化粧料基材を得た。この化粧料基材を樹脂皿へ充填し、プレス機で圧縮成形を行い、粉末固形化粧料を作製した。
得られたおしろいのサンプルについて、上記同様の評価を行ったところ、「使いきり試験」が「◎」、「耐衝撃性」が「◎」、「ケーキング試験」が「◎」、「仕上がりの均一性」が「◎」及び「凹凸の無さ」が「◎」であった。
(成分) (配合割合(質量%))
1. タルク 残余
2. マイカ 25
2. PET粉末*1 10
4. 窒化ホウ素 8
5. 非弾性球状ナイロンパウダー 3
6. 弾性球状ウレタンパウダー*14 2
7. 弾性球状シリコーンパウダー*4 5
8. 雲母チタン*6 5
9. 金属石鹸処理酸化鉄 5
10.トリエチルヘキサノイン 4.5
11.ジメチコン 2.5
12.ペンタイソステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル 1.7
13.シリコーン変性アクリルポリマー*8 4.5
14.防腐剤 0.2
15.酸化防止剤 0.02
*14:D−400(東色ピグメント社製、製品名、平均粒子径13μm)
成分1〜9の粉体成分をヘンシェルミキサーで均一に分散し、混合物Iを得た。成分10〜15を70℃に加温し均一に分散し、分散物IIを得た。混合物Iをヘンシェルミキサーで撹拌しながら、ここに分散物IIを添加し均一分散した。これをパルペライザーで粉砕し、化粧料基材を得た。この化粧料基材を樹脂皿へ充填し、プレス機で圧縮成形を行い、粉末固形化粧料を作製した。
得られたチークのサンプルについて、上記同様の評価を行ったところ、「使いきり試験」が「◎」、「耐衝撃性」が「◎」、「ケーキング試験」が「○」、「仕上がりの均一性」が「○」及び「凹凸の無さ」が「◎」であった。
(成分) (配合割合(質量%))
1. タルク 残余
2. マイカ 15
3. 合成金雲母鉄 10
4. PET粉末*1 10
5. 窒化ホウ素 8
6. 微粒子酸化チタン 9
7. 非弾性球状ナイロンパウダー 7
8. 弾性球状ウレタンパウダー*3 2
9. 弾性球状シリコーンパウダー*15 5
10.雲母チタン*5 3
11.フッ素化合物処理酸化チタン 2
12.金属石鹸処理酸化鉄 3
13.トリエチルヘキサノイン 4.5
14.ジメチコン 1
15.ペンタイソステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル 1.7
16.シリコーン変性アクリルポリマー*7 3.5
17.防腐剤 0.3
18.酸化防止剤 0.02
揮発性溶剤として軽質流動イソパラフィンを上記成分1〜18の合計100質量部に対して40質量部用いた。
*15:トレフィルE506S(東レ・ダウコーニング・シリコーン社製、製品名、平均粒子径4μm)
成分1〜12の粉体成分をヘンシェルミキサーで均一に分散し、混合物Iを得た。成分13〜18を70℃に加温し均一に分散し、分散物IIを得た。混合物Iをヘンシェルミキサーで撹拌しながら、ここに分散物IIを添加し均一分散した。この化粧料基材に、上記揮発性溶剤を上記の割合で加え、混練することでスラリー化し、化粧料基材を得た。この化粧料基材を樹脂皿へ充填し、プレス機で圧縮成形を行い、乾燥により溶剤を除去することで粉末固形化粧料を作製した。
得られたファンデーションのサンプルについて、上記同様の評価を行ったところ、「使いきり試験」が「◎」、「耐衝撃性」が「◎」、「ケーキング試験」が「◎」、「仕上がりの均一性」が「○」及び「凹凸の無さ」が「○」であった。
Claims (4)
- 粉体成分及び油性成分を含有する固形粉末化粧料であって、
前記油性成分が、(A)融点25〜55℃のシリコーンワックスを含み、
前記粉体成分が、(B)ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末と、(C)球状弾性粉体と、を含み、
前記(A)シリコーンワックスの含有量が、固形粉末化粧料全量を基準として、0.1〜6.0質量%であり、
前記(B)ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末の含有量が、固形粉末化粧料全量を基準として、5.0〜25.0質量%である、固形粉末化粧料。 - 前記(C)球状弾性粉体の含有量が、固形粉末化粧料全量を基準として、2.0〜15.0質量%である、請求項1に記載の固形粉末化粧料。
- 前記(A)シリコーンワックスとして、シリコーン変性アクリルポリマー、アルキル変性シリコーン及び脂肪族アルコール変性シリコーンからなる群より選択される少なくとも一種を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の固形粉末化粧料。
- 前記(A)シリコーンワックスとして、(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸ステアリル/メタクリル酸ジメチコン)コポリマー及び/又は(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸ベヘニル/メタクリル酸ジメチコン)コポリマーを含む、請求項1〜3のいずれか一項に記載の固形粉末化粧料。
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JP2009256318A (ja) * | 2008-03-27 | 2009-11-05 | Kose Corp | 圧縮成型固形粉末化粧料 |
JP2012211113A (ja) * | 2011-03-31 | 2012-11-01 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
JP2014166965A (ja) * | 2013-02-28 | 2014-09-11 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
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