JP2018131409A - 化粧料 - Google Patents
化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2018131409A JP2018131409A JP2017026298A JP2017026298A JP2018131409A JP 2018131409 A JP2018131409 A JP 2018131409A JP 2017026298 A JP2017026298 A JP 2017026298A JP 2017026298 A JP2017026298 A JP 2017026298A JP 2018131409 A JP2018131409 A JP 2018131409A
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 38
- ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N N-oleoylphytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 229940044176 ceramide 3 Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-VKHMYHEASA-N (+)-propylene glycol Chemical compound C[C@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-propanediol Substances OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229920000166 polytrimethylene carbonate Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 229940075507 glyceryl monostearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000001788 mono and diglycerides of fatty acids Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- WODOUQLMOIMKAL-FJSYBICCSA-L disodium;(2s)-2-(octadecanoylamino)pentanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@H](C([O-])=O)CCC([O-])=O WODOUQLMOIMKAL-FJSYBICCSA-L 0.000 claims description 7
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- LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylparaben Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 229920001214 Polysorbate 60 Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 4
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 description 3
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 3
- XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl acetate Chemical compound CCOC(C)=O XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 3
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- AUNGANRZJHBGPY-SCRDCRAPSA-N Riboflavin Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)CN1C=2C=C(C)C(C)=CC=2N=C2C1=NC(=O)NC2=O AUNGANRZJHBGPY-SCRDCRAPSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 3
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- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
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- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
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- PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N nicotinic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 3
- YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N (+)-Biotin Chemical compound N1C(=O)N[C@@H]2[C@H](CCCCC(=O)O)SC[C@@H]21 YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
(b)ステアリルアルコール
(c)ステアリン酸
(d)25℃で液状の油
(e)N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム
(f)セラミド3
ト、スクワラン、等の炭化水素油、アボカド油、ツバキ油、月見草油、マカデミアナッツ油、トウモロコシ油、ミンク油、オリーブ油、ナタネ油、卵黄油、ゴマ油、パーシック油、小麦胚芽油、サザンカ油、ヒマシ油、アマニ油、サフラワー油、綿実油、エノ油、大豆油、落花生油、茶実油、カヤ油、コメヌカ油、シナギリ油、日本キリ油、ホホバ油、胚芽油、トリグリセリド、トリオクタン酸グリセリン、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリン等の液体油脂、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、乳酸セチル、乳酸ミリスチル、酢酸ラノリン、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、ジ−2−エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステル、モノイソステアリン酸N−アルキルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリル、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ−2−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタンエリスリトール、トリー2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、セチル2−エチルヘキサノエート、2−エチルヘキシルパルミテート、トリミリスチン酸グリセリル、トリ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリル、ヒマシ油脂肪酸メチルエステル、オレイン酸オレイル、酢酸グリセリル、パルミチン酸2−ヘプチルウンデシル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、アジピン酸ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデシル、エチルラウレート、セバチン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、セバチン酸ジイソプロピル、コハク酸2−エチルヘキシル、酢酸エチル、酢酸ブチル、酢酸アミル、クエン酸トリエチル、シクロヘキサン−1,4−ジカルボン酸ビスエトキシジグリコール等の合成エステル油などが例示される。
5質量%未満ではセラミド3の安定化効果が充分ではなく、また30質量%以上では塗布時にポリオール自体のべたつきを感じる。
(成分(a)+成分(b)+成分(c))/成分(f)の値は、特に限定されないが、経日安定性と使用感の観点から10〜25が望ましい。10未満ではセラミド3の安定化効果が充分ではなく、使用感もきしみ感が出やすくなり、こく感も少なくなる。また25%以上では使用感としてなめらかさが少なくなり、べたつきも出やすくなる。
、ジョジョバロウ、硬質ラノリン、セラックロウ、POEラノリンアルコールエーテル、POEラノリンアルコールアセテート、POEコレステロールエーテル、ラノリン脂肪酸ポリエチレングリコール、POE水素添加ラノリンアルコールエーテルなどが例示される。
リンモノイソステアレート、POE−グリセリントリイソステアレート等のPOEグリセリン脂肪酸エステル類、POEモノオレエート、POEジステアレート、POEジオレエート、ジステアリン酸エチレングリコール等のPOE脂肪酸エステル類、POEラウリルエーテル、POEオレイルエーテル、POEステアリルエーテル、POEベヘニルエーテル、POE2−オクチルドデシルエーテル、POEコレスタノールエーテル等のPOEアルキルエーテル類、POEオクチルフェニルエーテル、POEノニルフェニルエーテル、POEジノニルフェニルエーテル等のPOEアルキルフェニルエーテル類、POE・POPグリコール等のプルロニック型類、テトロニック等のテトラPOE・テトラPOPエチレンジアミン縮合物類、POEヒマシ油、POE硬化ヒマシ油、POE硬化ヒマシ油モノイソステアレート、POE硬化ヒマシ油トリイソステアレート、POE硬化ヒマシ油モノピログルタミン酸モノイソステアリン酸ジエステル、POE硬化ヒマシ油マレイン酸等のPOEヒマシ油硬化ヒマシ油誘導体、POEソルビットミツロウ等のPOEミツロウ・ラノリン誘導体、ヤシ油脂肪酸ジエタノールアミド、ラウリン酸モノエタノールアミド、脂肪酸イソプロパノールアミド等のアルカノールアミドのほか、POEプロピレングリコール脂肪酸エステル、POEアルキルアミン、POE脂肪酸アミド、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、POEノニルフェニルホルムアルデヒド縮合物、アルキルエトキシジメチルアミンオキシド、トリオレイルリン酸などが例示される。
、コラーゲン、カゼイン、アルブミン、ゼラチン等の動物系水溶性高分子などが例示される。
0℃及び45℃で6ヶ月保存したときのサンプルの外観、および物性を下記基準により4段階で評価した。
◎:外観および物性(粘度)の変化、凝集物が認められない
○:外観および物性(粘度)の変化が若干認められるが、凝集物は認められない。
△:外観および物性(粘度)の変化が若干認められ、わずかな凝集物が認められる。
×:外観および物性(粘度)の変化、または凝集物が明らかに認められる
専門評価パネラー20名により、なめらかさ、こく感、べたつきの無さ、きしみ感について5段階評価し、更にその平均点から下記基準により判定した。
5点:非常に良い
4点:良い
3点:普通
2点:やや悪い
1点:悪い
◎:平均点が4.5点以上
○:平均点が3.5点以上4.5点未満
△:平均点が2.5点以上3.5点未満
×:平均点が2.5点未満
表1および表2に示した化粧料を調整し、0℃及び45℃における経日安定性評価、および使用感評価(なめらかさ、こく感、べたつきの無さ、きしみ感)を実施した。その結果を表1および表2に示す。
(1)モノステアリン酸グリセリル 1.0%
(2)ステアリン酸 4.0%
(3)ステアリルアルコール 4.0%
(4)メドウフォーム油 3.0%
(5)スクワラン 3.0%
(6)流動パラフィン 3.0%
(7)2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 3.0%
(8)パルミチン酸2−エチルヘキシル 3.0%
(9)ミリスチン酸イソプロピル 3.0%
(10)トリ(カプリル酸/カプリン酸)グリセリル 3.0%
(11)コレステロール 0.5%
(12)水添レシチン 0.5%
(13)セラミド3 0.5%
(14)ステアロイルグルタミン酸Na 0.8%
(15)グリセリン 5.0%
(16)BG 3.0%
(17)1,3−プロパンジオール 5.0%
(18)ジプロピレングリコール 3.0%
(19)カルボマー 0.2%
(20)キサンタンガム 0.3%
(21)(アクリル酸/アクリル酸アルキル(C10−30))コポリマー 0.1%
(22)HEDTA−3Na 0.05%(23)水溶性コラーゲン 0.1%
(24)ヒアルロン酸Na 0.1%
(25)メチルパラベン 0.1%
(26)フェノキシエタノール 0.3%
(27)精製水 残余
(1)〜(13)を80℃で均一に溶解する(A液)。(14)〜(27)を80℃で均一に溶解する(B液)。A液にB液を添加して、混合・攪拌・分散した。次いで、攪拌しながら30℃まで冷却し、化粧料を調製した。
(1)モノステアリン酸グリセリル 1.0%
(2)ステアリン酸 1.0%
(3)ステアリルアルコール 1.0%
(4)ステアリン酸ポリグリセリル−10 0.8%
(5)イソステアリン酸 2.5%
(6)セラミド3 0.2%
(7)ミネラルオイル 4.0%
(8)ジメチルポリシロキサン 1.0%
(9)テトラエチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリチル 2.0%
(10)ワセリン 1.0%
(11)パラフィン 1.0%
(12)トリ(カプリル酸/カプリン酸)グリセリル 2.0%
(13)ベヘニルアルコール 0.5%
(14)セチルアルコール 0.5%
(15)グリセリン 5.0%
(16)ジプロピレングリコール 5.0%
(17)ステアロイルグルタミン酸Na 1.0%
(18)メチルパラベン 0.2%
(19)フェノキシエタノール 0.4%
(20)HDTA−2Na 0.05%(21)クエン酸 0.04%(22)クエン酸Na 0.06%(23)精製水 残余
(1)〜(10)を80℃で均一に溶解する(A液)。(11)〜(19)を80℃で均一に溶解する(B液)。A液にB液を添加して、混合・攪拌・分散した。次いで、攪拌しながら30℃まで冷却し、化粧料を調製した。
目を評価したところ、いずれの特性も優れており良好な結果を得た。
Claims (6)
- 下記成分(a)〜(f)を含有することを特徴とする化粧料。
(a)モノステアリン酸グリセリル
(b)ステアリルアルコール
(c)ステアリン酸
(d)25℃で液状の油
(e)N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム
(f)セラミド3 - さらに成分(g)としてジプロピレングリコール、または1,3−プロパンジオールから選ばれる1種を含有することを特徴とする請求項1に記載の化粧料。
- さらに成分(g)としてジプロピレングリコール、および1,3−プロパンジオールを含有することを特徴とする請求項1または請求項2に記載の化粧料。
- 成分(e)と成分(f)の質量比 成分(e)/成分(f)が1.8以上5.0以下であることを特徴とする請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。
- (成分(a)+成分(b)+成分(c))の合計と成分(f)の質量比 (成分(a)+成分(b)+成分(c))/成分(f)が10.0以上25.0以下であることを特徴とする請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。
- 成分(f)の配合量が化粧料全体の0.2質量%以上、0.6質量%以下であることを特徴とする請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。
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