JP2004346072A - ケラチン繊維をパーマネントに新しい形状を与えるための還元組成物及びパーマネント再形成処理方法 - Google Patents
ケラチン繊維をパーマネントに新しい形状を与えるための還元組成物及びパーマネント再形成処理方法 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2004346072A JP2004346072A JP2004147826A JP2004147826A JP2004346072A JP 2004346072 A JP2004346072 A JP 2004346072A JP 2004147826 A JP2004147826 A JP 2004147826A JP 2004147826 A JP2004147826 A JP 2004147826A JP 2004346072 A JP2004346072 A JP 2004346072A
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- NXLOLUFNDSBYTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N retene Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C3=CC=C(C(C)C)C=C3C=CC2=C1C NXLOLUFNDSBYTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010561 standard procedure Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- KZNICNPSHKQLFF-UHFFFAOYSA-N succinimide Chemical class O=C1CCC(=O)N1 KZNICNPSHKQLFF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940035024 thioglycerol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NJRXVEJTAYWCQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N thiomalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(S)C(O)=O NJRXVEJTAYWCQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- DGXNWWJYEMQHED-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(4-methyl-3-oxopent-4-enyl)azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)CC[N+](C)(C)C DGXNWWJYEMQHED-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- USFMMZYROHDWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C USFMMZYROHDWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VZTGWJFIMGVKSN-UHFFFAOYSA-O trimethyl-[3-(2-methylprop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)C VZTGWJFIMGVKSN-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylamine Chemical group CN(C)C GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- DGVVWUTYPXICAM-UHFFFAOYSA-N β‐Mercaptoethanol Chemical compound OCCS DGVVWUTYPXICAM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
【解決手段】本発明は、ケラチン繊維、特に毛髪をパーマネントリシェイプ処理するための組成物であって、少なくとも炭酸水素アンモニウム並びにアンモニア水、炭酸水素アンモニウム以外のアンモニウム塩及びそれらの混合物から選択される他のアルカリ剤を含む組成物であってアンモニウムのモル濃度比が2.1より大きく、アンモニア水の含有率が3重量%未満である組成物に関し、また、第1段階でこの還元組成物を塗布するステップと、次いで、放置時間の後に、固定組成物を塗布し、このように処理したケラチン繊維をすすぐステップとを含む、パーマネントリシェイプ処理方法にも関する。本発明はまた、この還元組成物を含む、区画を有する装置又はキットに関する。
Description
−少なくとも炭酸水素アンモニウム並びにアンモニア水、炭酸水素アンモニウム以外のアンモニウム塩及びそれらの混合物から選択される少なくとも1種の他のアルカリ剤、ここで、以下の式によって定義されるモル濃度比Rは2.1より大きい、と、
−少なくとも1種の非環状陽イオンポリマーと、
−アンモニア水が存在する場合は、NH4OHとして、組成物の全重量に対して3%未満の割合で存在し、及び
還元剤と
を含む。
−チオールを中和するのに必要なアンモニウムのモル数と、
−過剰のアンモニウムのモル数と、
−炭酸水素アンモニウムのモル数と
を含む。
[式中、
R3は、水素原子又はCH3基を表し、
Aは、1〜6個の炭素原子、好ましくは2若しくは3個の炭素原子の直鎖又は分枝のアルキル基、或いは1〜4個の炭素原子のヒドロキシアルキル基を表し、
R4、R5及びR6は、同一でも異なっていてもよく、1〜6個の炭素原子を含むアルキル基を表し、
R1及びR2は、同一でも異なっていてもよく、水素又は1〜6個の炭素原子を含むアルキル基を表し、好ましくはメチル又はエチルを表し、
Xは、メト硫酸陰イオンや塩化物若しくは臭化物などハロゲン化物等の、無機酸又は有機酸由来の陰イオンを表す]。
−Hercules社によりHercoflocの名称の下で販売されている商品など、硫酸ジメチル又はハロゲン化ジメチルを用いて四級にした、アクリルアミド及びジメチルアミノエチルメタクリレートのコポリマー、
−例えば、欧州特許出願EP−A−080 976号に記載され、Ciba Geigy社によりBina Quat P 100の名称の下で販売されている、アクリルアミド及び塩化メタクリロイロキシエチルトリメチルアンモニウムのコポリマー
−Hercules社によりRetenの名称の下で販売されている、アクリルアミド及びメト硫酸メタクリロイロキシエチルトリメチルアンモニウムのコポリマー
を挙げることができる。
[式(48)中、
R10、R11、R12及びR13は、同一でも異なっていてもよく、約1〜4個の炭素原子を含むアルキル又はヒドロキシアルキル基を表し、n及びpは、約2〜20の範囲の整数であり、
X−は、無機酸又は有機酸由来の陰イオンである]。
[式中、
pは、約1〜6の範囲の整数であり、
Dは、存在しないか、基−(CH2)r−CO−(式中、rは4又は7に等しい数字を表す)を表してもよく、
X−は鉱酸又は有機酸由来の陰イオンである]。
pは3に等しく、かつ
a)Dは−(CH2)4−CO−基を表し、Xは塩素原子を表し、炭素−13NMR(13C NMR)で測定した分子量が約5600である(このタイプのポリマーはMiranol社によりMirapol−AD1の名称の下で販売されている)
b)Dは−(CH2)7−CO−基を表し、Xは塩素原子を表し、炭素−13NMR(13C NMR)で測定した分子量が約8100である(このタイプのポリマーはMiranol社によりMirapol−AZ1の名称の下で販売されている)
c)Dは値ゼロを表し、Xは塩素原子を表し、炭素−13NMR(13C NMR)で測定した分子量が約25500である(このタイプのポリマーはMiranol社によりMirapol−A15の名称の下で販売されている)
d)a)及びc)に記載のポリマーに対応するユニットから形成される「ブロックコポリマー」(Miranol社によりMirapol−9(13C NMRでの分子量は約7800)、Mirapol−175(13C NMRでの分子量は約8000)及びMirapol−95(13C NMRでの分子量は約12500)の名称の下で販売されている)
ものである。
具体的にはゲル浸透クロマトグラフィーで決定して分子量が9500〜9900であるもの、
特にゲル浸透クロマトグラフィーで決定して分子量が約1200であるもの
を使用することがより好ましい。
i)上で定義した還元組成物をケラチン物質に塗布するステップと、
ii)ケラチン物質の還元に必要な放置時間(leave−in time)及び任意選択のすすぎの後、固定組成物を塗布するステップと、
iii)固定に必要な放置時間の後、このようにして処理したケラチン物質をすすぐステップと
を含む方法に関する。
本出願人は、本発明に従って還元組成物(1)を調製した。
I−還元組成物(1)を用いた試験
カーラーに巻いた湿らせた毛髪に組成物(1)を塗布し、10分間放置した。反対側に、DV2還元剤を10分間塗布した。すすいだ後、組成物(3)及びDV2定着剤(fixer)を用いて5分間で固定を行い、最終のすすぎを行った。
II−還元組成物(2)を用いた試験
組成物(2)のチオグリコール酸の組成は、パーマネントウェーブ処理製品DV2の還元剤のそれと同等である。
L’Orealにより販売されている染料Feria(登録商標)7.40で染色し、次いで一連の4回のシャンプー洗浄を行った白髪を90%含む天然の毛髪の毛束を、次いで還元組成物(1)及び(2)並びにDV2還元組成物を用いてパーマネントウェーブ処理した。
Claims (20)
- 前記比Rが前記組成物の全重量に対して2.1−5、好ましくは2.1−3であることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の組成物。
- 前記他のアルカリ剤がアンモニア水であることを特徴とする、請求項1及び2のいずれかに記載の組成物。
- 前記アンモニア水の含有率が前記組成物の全重量に対して1%〜3%、好ましくは1.5%〜3%であることを特徴とする、請求項1から3までのいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- 前記還元組成物が追加のアルカリ剤としてモノエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン又は1,3−ジアミノプロパン誘導体を含むことを特徴とする、請求項1から4までのいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- 前記非環状陽イオンポリマーがポリアミン、ポリアミノアミド及びポリ四級アンモニウムのタイプのポリマーから選択されることを特徴とする、請求項1から5までのいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- 前記還元組成物中の非環状陽イオンポリマーの濃度が前記組成物の全重量に対して0.01%〜20%、好ましくは0.1%〜10%であることを特徴とする、請求項1から8までのいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- 少なくとも1種の亜硫酸塩及びチオールから選択される還元剤を含むことを特徴とする、請求項1から9までのいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- 前記チオールがチオグリコール酸、チオ乳酸、システイン及びシステアミン又はその塩、並びにチオグリコール酸グリセリルから選択されることを特徴とする、請求項10に記載の組成物。
- 界面活性剤、シリコン、ワックス、濃化剤、浸透剤、脂肪族アルコール、ラノリン誘導体、セラミド、活性成分、脱毛防止剤、ふけ防止剤、懸濁剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、乳白剤、安定剤、染料、シリコン若しくは非シリコンの日焼け止め剤、保存料、香料又はジチオ化合物から選択される添加剤を含むことを特徴とする、請求項1から11までのいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- ケラチン物質、特に毛髪をパーマネントリシェイプ処理するための方法であって、以下の操作を含む方法
i)第1段階で、請求項1から12までに記載の還元組成物を該ケラチン物質に塗布するステップと、
ii)該ケラチン物質の還元に必要な放置時間の後、固定組成物を塗布するステップと、
iii)固定に必要な放置時間の後、このようにして処理した該ケラチン物質をすすぐステップ。 - 前記固定組成物を塗布する前に前記ケラチン物質をすすぐことを特徴とする、請求項13に記載の方法。
- 前記固定組成物が、過酸化水素、過酸化尿素、臭素酸アルカリ金属及び過ホウ酸塩や過硫酸塩など過酸塩から選択される少なくとも1種の酸化剤を含むことを特徴とする、請求項13又は14に記載の方法。
- 前記還元組成物を塗布する前にプレローションを前記ケラチン物質に塗布することを特徴とする、請求項13から15までのいずれか一項に記載の方法。
- 使用する前記プレローションがアミノシリコンを含むことを特徴とする、請求項16に記載の方法。
- 湿らせたケラチン物質に前記還元組成物を塗布することを特徴とする、請求項13から17までのいずれか一項に記載の方法。
- 固定組成物を塗布する前に、高温で数秒間加熱する段階を行うことを特徴とする、請求項13から18までのいずれか一項に記載の方法。
- 第1区画に請求項1から12までのいずれか一項に記載の還元組成物を含み、第2区画に固定組成物を含む、ケラチン繊維、特に毛髪をパーマネントリシェイプ処理するための区画を有する装置又はキット。
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FR0305971A FR2855045B1 (fr) | 2003-05-19 | 2003-05-19 | Composition reductrice pour la deformation permanente des fibres keratiniques et procede de deformation permanente. |
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EP (1) | EP1486196B1 (ja) |
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CN (1) | CN100336497C (ja) |
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JP2010248192A (ja) * | 2009-04-15 | 2010-11-04 | L'oreal Sa | 還元性組成物を用い且つ加熱を用いた、毛髪に形を付与する方法 |
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US7815901B2 (en) * | 2005-01-28 | 2010-10-19 | L'ORéAL S.A. | Hair treatment method |
FR2881346B1 (fr) * | 2005-01-28 | 2007-04-27 | Oreal | Procede de traitement capillaire et utilisation dudit procede |
FR2941600A1 (fr) * | 2009-01-30 | 2010-08-06 | Oreal | Dispositif de chauffage de fibres keratiniques, procede et kit correspondants |
FR2965481B1 (fr) * | 2010-10-01 | 2013-04-19 | Oreal | Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques mettant en oeuvre au moins un reducteur soufre, au moins un polymere cationique et au moins un mercaptosiloxane |
WO2017154708A1 (ja) * | 2016-03-09 | 2017-09-14 | 昌代 熊谷 | 毛髪処理方法及び毛髪処理剤セット |
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EP0269107A3 (en) | 1986-11-28 | 1989-10-11 | Kao Corporation | Composition for hair treatment agent |
DE59200033D1 (de) * | 1991-05-31 | 1994-01-27 | Goldwell Ag | Mittel zur Verformung von menschlichen Haaren und Verwendung von Chlorophyll und Chlorophyllderivaten in solchen Mitteln. |
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FR2736262B1 (fr) * | 1995-07-07 | 1997-09-26 | Oreal | Compositions cosmetiques detergentes a usage capillaire et utilisation de ces dernieres |
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JP2010248192A (ja) * | 2009-04-15 | 2010-11-04 | L'oreal Sa | 還元性組成物を用い且つ加熱を用いた、毛髪に形を付与する方法 |
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US7754193B2 (en) | 2010-07-13 |
JP4118251B2 (ja) | 2008-07-16 |
DE602004027776D1 (de) | 2010-08-05 |
ATE471741T1 (de) | 2010-07-15 |
CN1572284A (zh) | 2005-02-02 |
CN100336497C (zh) | 2007-09-12 |
EP1486196B1 (fr) | 2010-06-23 |
EP1486196A1 (fr) | 2004-12-15 |
FR2855045A1 (fr) | 2004-11-26 |
ES2344945T3 (es) | 2010-09-10 |
US20050112076A1 (en) | 2005-05-26 |
BRPI0402064A (pt) | 2005-01-25 |
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