JP2004315999A - Method for producing woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing a woven fabric having no weft unevenness, and the like, excellent stretchability and qualities by using a rapier loom or a gripper loom. <P>SOLUTION: In the method for producing the woven fabric using a latently crimp developing polyester-based fiber multifilament yarn as a weft, which is composed of two or more kinds of polyester components and in which at least one component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate, by using the rapier loom or the gripper loom, the multifilament yarn is an interlaced yarn which is substantially twistless and has an interlacing number of ≥50/m. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

【００７３】
式中、ηｒは、純度９８％以上のｏ−クロロフェノール溶媒に溶解したポリトリメチレンテレフタレート糸又はポリエチレンテレフタレート糸の稀釈溶液の３５℃での粘度を、同一温度で測定した上記溶媒の粘度で除した値であり、相対粘度と定義されているものである。Ｃはｇ／１００ｍｌで表されるポリマー濃度である。
【００７４】
なお、固有粘度の異なる２種類のポリマーを用いた複合繊維の場合は、フィラメントを構成するそれぞれの固有粘度を測定することは困難であるので、複合繊維の紡糸条件と同じ条件で２種類のポリマーをそれぞれ単独で紡糸し、得られた糸を用いて測定した固有粘度を、複合繊維のフィラメントを構成するそれぞれの固有粘度とした。
【００７５】
（２）初期引張抵抗度
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１３〔化学繊維フィラメント糸試験方法〕初期引張抵抗度の試験方法に準じ、試料の単位繊度当たり０．０８８２ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘの初荷重を掛けて引張試験を行い、得られた荷重−伸長曲線から初期引張抵抗度（ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ）を算出し、１０回の平均値を求めた。
【００７６】
（３）伸縮伸長率、伸縮弾性率
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９０〔合成繊維フィラメントかさ高加工糸試験方法〕伸縮性試験方法：Ａ法に準じて測定を行い、伸縮伸長率（％）、伸縮弾性率（％）を算出し、１０回の平均値を求めた。
【００７７】
顕在捲縮の伸縮伸長率および伸縮弾性率は、巻取りパッケージから解舒した試料を、温度２０±２℃、湿度６５±２％の環境下で２４時間放置後に測定を行った。
【００７８】
熱水処理後の伸縮伸長率および伸縮弾性率は、無荷重で９８℃の熱水中に３０分間浸漬した後、無荷重で２４時間自然乾燥した試料を用いた。
【００７９】
（４）熱収縮応力
熱応力測定装置（カネボウエンジニアリング社製：商品名ＫＥ−２）を用い、試料を２０ｃｍの長さに切り取り、両端を結んで輪を作り測定装置に装填し、初荷重０．０４４ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、昇温速度１００℃／分の条件で収縮応力を測定し、得られた温度に対する熱収縮応力の変化曲線から１００℃における熱収縮応力（ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ）を読み取った。
【００８０】
（５）仮撚加工糸の顕在捲縮伸長率、顕在捲縮弾性率
島津製作所（株）製の引張試験機を用いて、つかみ間隔１０ｃｍにて仮撚加工糸を初荷重０．９×１０^−３ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘで取り付けた後、引張速度１０ｃｍ／分で伸長し、０．０８８２ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘの応力に達したときの伸び（％）を顕在捲縮伸長率とした。
【００８１】
その後、再び同じ速度で、つかみ間隔１０ｃｍまで収縮させた後、再度、応力−歪み曲線を描き、初荷重の応力が発現するまでの伸度を残留伸度（Ｂ）とする。顕在捲縮弾性率は以下の式によって求めた。
【００８２】
顕在捲縮弾性率（％）＝〔（１０−Ｂ）／１０〕×１００
（６）仮撚加工糸の捲縮伸長率、捲縮弾性率
巻き取りパッケージから解舒した仮撚加工糸を、無荷重下で９８℃の熱水中に２０分浸漬した後、無荷重下で２４時間乾燥した試料を用いた以外は、上記（５）顕在捲縮伸長率及び顕在捲縮弾性率の測定と同様の方法にて測定し、それぞれを捲縮伸長率、捲縮弾性率とした。
【００８３】
（７）織物のストレッチ性、ストレッチバック性
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６〔一般織物試験法〕伸長率Ａ法（定速伸長法）、伸長回復率（繰り返し定速伸長法）に準拠した。但し、伸長回復率は、伸長率Ａ法で求めた伸びの１００％まで試料を伸長した。
【００８４】
ＯＲＩＥＮＴＥＣ（株）製の引張試験機（型式：ＲＴＣ−１２１０Ａ）を用いて、試料（幅５ｃｍ×長さ１ｍ）にかかる重力に相当する荷重を初荷重としてかけ、把持間隔２０ｃｍ（Ｌ０）、引張速度２０ｃｍ／分で試料を所望の方向に伸長させ、１４．７１Ｎ（１．５ｋｇｆ、３００ｇｆ／ｃｍ）の荷重がかかるまで伸長し、長さ（Ｌ１）を読み取った。その後、１分間放置後、同速度で元の位置に戻し、３分間放置する。再び同速度で伸長し、初荷重と同じ荷重がかかった時点の長さ（Ｌ２）を読み取った。
【００８５】
ストレッチ率及びストレッチバック率は以下の式によって求めた。
【００８６】
ストレッチ率（％）＝｛（Ｌ１−Ｌ０）／Ｌ０｝×１００
ストレッチバック率（％）＝｛（Ｌ１−Ｌ２）／（Ｌ１−Ｌ０）｝×１００
（８）交絡数の測定
米国特許第２９８５９９５号明細書に記載されている測定方法に準拠して求めた。
【００８７】
試料長約１ｍの交絡点下端に０．１８ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（０．２ｇ／ｄ）の荷重を吊るして試料を垂下し、試料上方の糸束中央部に直径約０．７ｍｍのクロムメッキを施したフックを挿入して虫ピン等で支えながら、挿入位置より上方の交絡部で止められるまで一旦静かに下降させて、その下降長Ｌ（ｃｍ）を測定した。これを繰り返し５０回測定し、平均Ｌ（バー）から１００／Ｌ（バー）によって得られた値である。なお、フックの下降速度は１ｃｍ／秒である。
【００８８】
（９）織物品位の評価
熟練した加工技術者１０人により下記の基準で評価を行い、その平均点で示した。
【００８９】
５級；ネップが無く、極めて目面の美麗な織物である
３級；ネップが発生している織物である
１級；ネップが多い織物である
＜潜在捲縮発現性ポリエステル系繊維の製造＞
固有粘度の異なるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維を、以下の製造例１〜３により製造した。
【００９０】
〔製造例１〕
固有粘度の異なる二種類のポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを比率１：１でサイドバイサイド型に押出し、紡糸温度２６５℃、紡糸速度１５００ｍ／分で未延伸糸を得た。次いで、得られた未延伸糸を、ホットロール温度５５℃、ホットプレート温度１４０℃、延伸速度４００ｍ／分、延伸倍率は延伸後の繊度が１６７ｄｔｅｘとなるように設定して延撚し、１６５ｄｔｅｘ／３５ｆのサイドバイサイド型の複合繊維を得た。
【００９１】
得られた複合繊維の固有粘度は、高粘度側が［η］＝０．９０、低粘度側が［η］＝０．７０であった。初期引張抵抗度、顕在捲縮の伸縮伸長率及び伸縮弾性率、熱水処理後の伸縮伸長率及び伸縮弾性率、１００℃における熱収縮応力を表１に示す。
【００９２】
〔製造例２〕
製造例１と同様の方法で、１６５ｄｔｅｘ／３５ｆのサイドバイサイド型の複合繊維を得た。得られた複合繊維の固有粘度は、高粘度側が［η］＝０．８８、低粘度側が［η］＝０．７０であった。初期引張抵抗度、顕在捲縮の伸縮伸長率及び伸縮弾性率、熱水処理後の伸縮伸長率及び伸縮弾性率、１００℃における熱収縮応力を表１に示す。
【００９３】
〔製造例３〕
製造例１と同様の方法で１６５ｄｔｅｘ／３５ｆのサイドバイサイド型の複合繊維を得た。得られた複合繊維の固有粘度は、高粘度側が［η］＝０．８６、低粘度側が［η］＝０．６９であった。初期引張抵抗度、顕在捲縮の伸縮伸長率及び伸縮弾性率、熱水処理後の伸縮伸長率及び伸縮弾性率、１００℃における熱収縮応力を表１に示す。
【００９４】
【表１】

【００９５】
〔実施例１〜３〕
上記の各製造例で得られた複合繊維を用いて、石川製作所製ＩＶＦ−３３８にて第１ヒーター温度１７０℃、撚方向はＳ撚並びにＺ撚の二種、仮撚数３２００Ｔ／ｍで仮撚加工を行い仮撚加工糸を得た。実施例１〜３の仮撚加工糸は、顕在捲縮伸長率１８０〜２００％、顕在捲縮弾性率８５〜９０％、捲縮伸長率２００〜２５０％、捲縮弾性率８５〜９３％であった。
【００９６】
なお、製造例１で得た繊維を実施例１に用い、製造例２で得た繊維を実施例２に用い、製造例３で得た繊維を実施例３に用いた。
【００９７】
得られた仮撚加工糸を２本引き揃えて合糸し、インターレース加工（空気圧０．３ＭＰａ）により１１０個／ｍの交絡を付与した。
【００９８】
この交絡糸を緯糸として、綿番手で１６／−（３６９ｄｔｅｘ）の精製セルロース繊維（登録商標テンセル）紡績糸の先染め糸を経糸に用い、レピア織機（石川レピア２００１型；石川製作所社製）を用いて、織機回転数４５０ｒｐｍで製織し、経糸密度９５本／２．５４ｃｍ、緯糸密度５０本／２．５４ｃｍの３／１綾組織の生機を得た。
【００９９】
得られた生機を９０℃でサンフォライズ加工した後、製品に縫製して、常法に従って製品洗い（６５℃での湯洗い）を実施し、仕上げた。製品の生地密度は、経糸密度１３０本／２．５４ｃｍ、緯糸密度５３本／２．５４ｃｍであった。
【０１００】
実施例１〜３の織物品位は、全て４．５級以上と極めて良好であり、また、緯糸方向のストレッチ率／ストレッチバック率は、実施例１は３０％／９３％、実施例２は２７％／９２％、実施例３は２６％／９３％であり、ストレッチ性並びにストレッチバック性にも優れるものであった。
【０１０１】
〔比較例１〕
実施例１において、仮撚加工糸に交絡を付与せずに用いた以外は、実施例１と同様に製織、染色仕上げして織物を得た。得られた織物は、ストレッチ率及びストレッチバック率は２９％及び９２％であり、実施例１と同様に優れたストレッチ性を有するものであったが、織物品位は２．５級と劣ったものであった。
【０１０２】
〔実施例４〕
実施例１において、グリッパー織機（Ｐ７１００；スルザー社製）を用いて、織機回転数３５０ｒｐｍで製織した以外は、実施例１と同様に染色仕上げして織物を得た。得られた織物は、ストレッチ率及びストレッチバック率は２９％及び９１％で、実施例１と同様に優れたストレッチ性を有するものであり、織物品位も４．５級と優れたものであった。
【０１０３】
〔実施例５〕
製造例１において、紡糸速度を変化させて破断伸度１００％のＰＯＹを得た。
【０１０４】
次いで、仮撚加工機として、村田機械製作所（株）製の３３Ｈ仮撚機を用いて、仮撚加工糸の破断伸度が３５％となるように延伸倍率を設定し、仮撚ヒーター出口の糸条温度１６０℃、仮撚数３２００Ｔ／ｍで延伸仮撚加工を行い、８４ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆの１ヒーターの延伸仮撚加工糸を得た。
【０１０５】
得られた延伸仮撚加工糸は、顕在捲縮伸長率２００％、顕在捲縮弾性率９０％、捲縮伸長率２４０％、捲縮弾性率９１％であった。
【０１０６】
この仮撚加工糸４本を合糸して用いた以外は、実施例１と同様にして交絡、製織、染色仕上げして織物を得た。得られた織物は、織物品位が５級であり、ストレッチ率及びストレッチバック率は２９％及び９２％と優れたストレッチ性を有するものであった。
【０１０７】
〔実施例６及び７、比較例２〕
実施例１において、交絡数を８０個／ｍ（実施例６）、１８０個／ｍ（実施例７）、４０個／ｍ（比較例２）と変化させた交絡糸を用いた以外は、実施例１と同様にして製織、染色仕上げして織物を得た。得られた織物は、ストレッチ率及びストレッチバック率は２８〜３０％及び９１〜９３％で、実施例１と同様に優れたストレッチ性を有するものであった。しかし、織物品位は、実施例６及び７のものは４．５級以上と優れていたが、比較例２のものは３級と劣っていた。
【０１０８】
〔実施例８〕
製造例１で得られた複合繊維を仮撚加工せずに用いた以外は、実施例１と同様にして交絡、製織、染色仕上げして織物を得た。得られた織物は、織物品位が４．５級であり、ストレッチ率及びストレッチバック率は１４％及び８５％であった。
【０１０９】
【発明の効果】
本発明の製造法により、緯糸斑などの織物欠点が無く、ストレッチ性及び品位に優れた織物を、レピア織機又はグリッパー織機で製造することができる。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric using a polyester fiber multifilament yarn exhibiting latent crimp as a weft.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In recent years, there is a high demand for a woven fabric having a stretch property. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a knitted woven fabric composed of a latently crimp-expressing polyester fiber false-twisted yarn of which at least one component is polytrimethylene terephthalate. However, it is disclosed that the yarn has excellent stretchability, and an example in which this false twisted yarn is used as a weft and woven using a water jet loom (hereinafter, referred to as WJL) is disclosed.
[0003]
On the other hand, when weft-inserting this false twisted yarn using a rapier loom or a gripper loom known as a high-speed loom similarly to WJL, a woven fabric in which weft spots such as neps are generated may be obtained. Such weft spots (woven fabric defects) are caused, in particular, by the weft insertion of a substantially non-twisted latently crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn, and furthermore, two or more of this yarn and its false twisted yarn. This often occurred when wefting and weaving.
[0004]
Such a fabric defect does not occur in a fluid jet loom represented by WJL or an air jet loom (hereinafter, AJL), and is a problem peculiar to a rapier loom or a gripper loom.
[0005]
[Patent Document 1]
International Publication WO02 / 86211 pamphlet
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric which is free from the above-mentioned drawbacks and has excellent stretchability.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventor has studied in detail the relationship between the characteristics of the multifilament yarn and the weaving conditions, for example, the number of rotations, weft insertion conditions, and the like. And found that the present invention was completed.
[0008]
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[0009]
1. A fabric using a latently crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn in which at least one component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate and at least one of which is polytrimethylene terephthalate as a weft, is produced by a rapier loom or a gripper loom. A method for producing a woven fabric, wherein the multifilament yarn is a substantially non-twisted yarn having a number of entanglements of 50 / m or more.
[0010]
2. 2. The method for producing a woven fabric according to the above item 1, wherein the multifilament yarn is obtained by combining two or more yarns.
[0011]
3. 3. The method for producing a woven fabric according to the above item 1 or 2, wherein the multifilament yarn is a false twisted yarn.
[0012]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[0013]
In the present invention, the latently crimp-expressing polyester fiber is a fiber composed of at least two kinds of polyester components (specifically, many are bonded in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type). ), Which exhibit crimp by heat treatment. The composite ratio of the two polyester components (generally, many are in the range of 70/30 to 30/70 by mass%), the joining surface shape (there is a straight or curved shape) are not particularly limited. . The total fineness is preferably 20 to 300 dtex, and the single yarn fineness is preferably 0.5 to 20 dtex, but is not limited thereto.
[0014]
In the present invention, the latent crimp developing polyester fiber is characterized in that at least one component thereof is polytrimethylene terephthalate.
[0015]
In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate is a polyester having trimethylene terephthalate units as main repeating units, and the trimethylene terephthalate units are at least about 50 mol%, preferably at least 70 mol%, more preferably at least 80 mol%, More preferably, it contains 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is within a range of about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and still more preferably 10 mol% or less. And polytrimethylene terephthalate.
[0016]
Polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthesis process, one or more appropriate third components may be added to obtain a copolymerized polyester. Further, a polyester or nylon other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate may be blended with polytrimethylene terephthalate. The content of polytrimethylene terephthalate at the time of blending is preferably at least 50% by mass.
[0017]
As the third component to be added, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (such as isophthalic acid and sodium sulfoisophthalic acid), and fatty acids Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexane dimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene And the like, polyether glycols (such as polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (such as ω-oxycaproic acid), and aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (such as p-oxybenzoic acid). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.
[0018]
Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, It may contain a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like.
[0019]
As a specific example of the above-mentioned latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber, there is a polyester fiber containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as one component as disclosed in JP-A-2001-40537. That is, two types of polyester polymers are composite fibers joined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type. In the case of a side-by-side type, the melt viscosity ratio of the two types of polyester polymers is preferably 1.00 to 2.00. In the case of an eccentric core-sheath type, the sheath polymer and the core polymer preferably have an alkali weight reduction rate ratio of at least three times that of the sheath polymer.
[0020]
Specific combinations of polymers include polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate (a polyester having terephthalic acid as a main dicarboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component; glycols such as butanediol, isophthalic acid, Dicarboxylic acids such as 6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid may be copolymerized, and other polymers and additives such as matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, etc. may be contained.) And polytrimethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate (polyesters having terephthalic acid as a main dicarboxylic acid component and 1.4-butanediol as a main glycol component; glycols such as ethylene glycol, isophthalic acid, and 2,6-naphthalene) Dicarboxylic acid, etc. Dicarboxylic acid may be copolymerized, and other polymers and additives such as matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, and pigments may be contained.) It is preferable that polytrimethylene terephthalate is disposed inside.
[0021]
Such latently crimp-expressing polyester fibers in which at least one of the polyester components is polytrimethylene terephthalate are disclosed in JP-B-43-19108, JP-A-43-19108, and JP-A-2001-40537. JP-A-189923, JP-A-2000-239927, JP-A-2000-256918, JP-A-2000-328382, JP-A-2001-81640, and the like. For example, polytrimethylene terephthalate is used as the first component, and polyester such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate is used as the second component. Alternatively, a composite yarn spun into an eccentric sheath-core type is described. In particular, a combination of polytrimethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polytrimethylene terephthalate or a combination of two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities is preferable.
[0022]
Further, as the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber, those having the following physical properties are preferable for achieving the object of the present invention.
[0023]
The initial tensile resistance is preferably 10 to 30 cN / dtex, more preferably 20 to 30 cN / dtex, and still more preferably 20 to 27 cN / dtex. Within this range, fibers having a soft texture can be easily produced.
[0024]
The stretch ratio of the actual crimp is preferably 10 to 100%, more preferably 10 to 80%, and further preferably 10 to 60%. Within this range, the production is easy and the object of the present invention is sufficiently achieved.
[0025]
The elastic modulus of the apparent crimp is preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 85 to 100%, and still more preferably 85 to 97%. Within this range, the production is easy and the object of the present invention is sufficiently achieved.
[0026]
The heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. is preferably 0.1 to 0.5 cN / dtex, more preferably 0.1 to 0.4 cN / dtex, and still more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 cN / dtex. Within this range, the production is easy and the object of the present invention is sufficiently achieved.
[0027]
The stretch ratio after the hot water treatment is preferably 100 to 250%, more preferably 150 to 250%, and still more preferably 180 to 250%. Within this range, the production is easy and the object of the present invention is sufficiently achieved.
[0028]
The elastic modulus after hot water treatment is preferably 90 to 100%, more preferably 95 to 100%. With this range, the object of the present invention is sufficiently achieved.
[0029]
As the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber having such properties, a conjugate fiber composed of a single yarn in which two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities are combined with each other in a side-by-side type is mentioned as a preferable one. Can be
[0030]
The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferably 0.05 to 0.4 (dl / g), more preferably 0.1 to 0.35 (dl / g), and further preferably 0. .15 to 0.35 (dl / g). For example, when the intrinsic viscosity on the high viscosity side is selected from 0.7 to 1.3 (dl / g), the intrinsic viscosity on the low viscosity side is selected from 0.5 to 1.1 (dl / g). Preferably. In addition, the intrinsic viscosity on the low viscosity side is preferably 0.8 (dl / g) or more, more preferably 0.85 to 1.0 (dl / g), and still more preferably 0.9 to 1.0 (dl / g). g).
[0031]
The intrinsic viscosity of the conjugate fiber itself, that is, the average intrinsic viscosity, is preferably 0.7 to 1.2 (dl / g), more preferably 0.8 to 1.2 (dl / g), and more preferably 0.85 to 1.2 (dl / g). To 1.15 (dl / g), more preferably 0.9 to 1.1 (dl / g).
[0032]
The value of the intrinsic viscosity referred to in the present invention refers to the intrinsic viscosity of the spun yarn, not the polymer used. The reason is that polytrimethylene terephthalate is liable to be thermally decomposed as compared with polyethylene terephthalate and the like, and even when a polymer having a high intrinsic viscosity is used, the intrinsic viscosity is reduced by the thermal decomposition in the spinning process, and the composite fiber This is because it is difficult to maintain the intrinsic viscosity and the intrinsic viscosity difference of the polymer as they are.
[0033]
In the present invention, the method disclosed in each of the above-mentioned patent publications can be applied to spinning of the latent crimp developing polyester fiber. For example, a method in which an undrawn yarn is obtained at a winding speed of 3000 m / min or less and then twisted at a rate of about 2 to 3.5 times is preferable, but a direct drawing method (spin draw method) in which a spinning-drawing step is directly connected. Alternatively, a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more may be employed.
[0034]
Further, the form of the fiber may be uniform in the length direction or thick and thin, and the cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yaba-shaped, flat ( It has a flatness of about 1.3 to 4 and includes W type, I type, Boomerang type, corrugated type, skewered dumpling type, cocoon type, cuboid type, etc.), polygon type such as dog bone type, etc. It may be a leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type.
[0035]
The present invention is characterized by using a tangled yarn of the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn.
[0036]
This entangled yarn is substantially non-twisted and has a entanglement number of at least 50 yarns / m, preferably at least 60 yarns / m, more preferably at least 70 yarns / m, even more preferably at least 80 yarns / m. is there. The upper limit of the number of confounds is preferably 200 / m or less, more preferably 190 / m or less, and further preferably 180 / m or less. If the number of confounds is less than 50 / m, the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.
[0037]
Here, the term "substantially non-twisted" means that the number of twists is about the so-called unwinding twist, usually about 70 T / m or less, preferably 30 T / m or less, particularly 10 T / m or less.
[0038]
In the present invention, it is particularly effective when the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn is a false twisted yarn.
[0039]
The properties of the false twisted yarn that is preferable for obtaining a woven fabric having excellent stretchability are listed below.
[0040]
The apparent crimp elongation is preferably 70% or more, more preferably 70 to 300%, further preferably 100 to 300%, and particularly preferably 120 to 300%.
[0041]
The apparent crimp modulus is preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 82 to 100%, and still more preferably 85 to 100%.
[0042]
The crimp elongation is preferably 100 to 400%, more preferably 120 to 400%.
[0043]
The crimp modulus is preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100%.
[0044]
The false twisting method for obtaining the false twisted yarn is not particularly limited, and a pin type, a friction type, a nip belt type, an air twist type, or the like can be used. Above all, a pin type and a nip belt type are preferable. The false twisted yarn is more effective when a so-called one-heater false twisted yarn (non-set type) is used than a so-called two-heater false twisted yarn (set type).
[0045]
The yarn temperature at the outlet of the false twist heater is preferably 100 to 200 ° C.
[0046]
As for the number of false twists (T1), the coefficient K1 value of the number of false twists calculated by the following formula is preferably 21000 to 36000, and more preferably 25000 to 34000.
[0047]
T1 (T / m) = K1 / [fineness of original yarn (dtex)]^0.5
In particular, in the present invention, the false twisted yarn is preferably a POY drawn false twisted yarn, and a woven fabric having excellent quality is obtained.
[0048]
Examples of POY stretch false twisted yarns include those disclosed in JP-A-2001-20136 and JP-A-2001-164433.
[0049]
Note that POY is generally called a partially oriented yarn, a partially oriented undrawn yarn, a highly oriented undrawn yarn, or the like.
[0050]
The breaking elongation of POY is preferably 60% or more, more preferably 70% or more, and further preferably 80% or more. The upper limit of the elongation at break is preferably 250% or less, more preferably 200% or less, and further preferably 180% or less.
[0051]
The single yarn fineness of the POY drawn false twisting yarn is preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex, more preferably 1 to 2.5 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is in the above range, the elasticity is sufficient and the texture is soft.
[0052]
Such a POY is obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m / min, and particularly preferably obtained by a direct drawing method (spin draw method) in which a spinning-drawing step is directly connected.
[0053]
Regarding the POY stretch false twisting conditions, the stretch ratio is preferably 1.05 to 2.00 times, more preferably 1.05 to 1.70 times, and the number of false twists T1 is the coefficient K1 of the number of false twists. Is preferably 23000 to 36000, and more preferably 27000 to 34000.
[0054]
The yarn temperature at the outlet of the false twist heater is preferably 100 to 200 ° C. Moreover, the 1-heater false twisted yarn (non-set type) is more preferable than the 2-heater false twisted yarn (set type).
[0055]
The false twisting method is not particularly limited, and any method such as a pin type, a friction type, a nip belt type, and an air twisting type may be used.
[0056]
In the present invention, the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn is used as the weft, but this multifilament yarn and another yarn may be used in combination. In particular, the content of this multifilament yarn is in the range of 10% or more by mass, preferably 15% or more, most preferably 80% or more, for example, twin yarn or triple yarn or more and combined with other yarns. It is also effective if you do. Other yarns that can be used in combination with the multifilament yarn (raw yarn and / or false twisted yarn) include, for example, a substantially non-twisted raw yarn of polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. And / or false twisted yarns are preferred.
[0057]
The material used for the warp of the fabric is not particularly limited. In addition to the multifilament yarn, for example, polyester fibers such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyethylene terephthalate, and polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66 Synthetic fibers such as base fibers, acrylic fibers and acetate fibers, natural fibers such as cotton and wool, and cellulosic fibers such as cupra, rayon, and purified cellulose fibers can be used. Examples of the yarn form include bulky processed yarns such as non-twisted yarns, twisted yarns, and false twisted yarns. Composite yarns in which one or more of the above various materials are mixed may be used. Or composite false twist.
[0058]
The weaving structure may be any of a flat weaving, a vertical weaving, a twill weaving, a twill weaving, a satin, etc., a single weaving, a pile weaving, a pile weaving, a leno weaving, etc. It becomes easier to express high stretchability. In general, a flat structure having a large number of warp and weft crosses is unlikely to exhibit high stretchability. However, if the yarn of the present invention is used, the surface is smooth, and high stretch can be expressed. .
[0059]
Therefore, in the present invention, when a flat structure, a warp-like flat structure, and a twill structure are used, the effect of expressing high stretchability while maintaining a smooth surface is more easily exhibited.
[0060]
For the density of the fabric, the preferred cover factor (CF) for the greige as well as the finish is as follows: The warp CF = 800-3000 and the weft CF = 600-2500 in the greige machine, and the warp CF = 900-3000 and the weft CF = 700-2500 in the finishing.
[0061]
The cover factor (CF) is calculated by the following equation.
[0062]
Warp CF = Warp density (book / 2.54 cm) x Da^0.5
Weft CF = weft density (book / 2.54 cm) x Db^0.5
In the formula, Da is the total fineness of the warp (dtex), and Db is the total fineness of the weft (dtex).
[0063]
The weaving conditions of the rapier loom or the gripper loom are not particularly limited, and ordinary weaving conditions can be applied as they are. Generally, as the number of revolutions of the loom increases, the defect of the fabric tends to occur. However, the present invention is characterized in that a high-quality fabric can be obtained even at a high speed. The loom rotation speed is preferably at least 300 rpm, more preferably at least 350 rpm, even more preferably at least 400 rpm, and the upper limit thereof is preferably at most 550 rpm, more preferably at most 500 rpm, further preferably at most 450 rpm.
[0064]
In the present invention, as a method of dyeing and finishing a woven fabric, there is a method in which after the greige fabric is relaxed and widened, dyeing is performed, and a final set that also serves as a finishing process is performed. As a device used for the relaxation treatment, a liquid jet dyeing machine, a U-shaped softer, a horizontal softer, an open soaper, or the like can be used, but the use of a U-shaped softer is more preferable in terms of surface properties and high stretch expression. The temperature at this time is preferably from 80C to 105C, more preferably from 90C to 100C.
[0065]
It is more preferable to insert an intermediate set before dyeing in order to achieve surface smoothness. The temperature at that time is preferably 150 to 170 ° C. When the temperature is 150 to 170 ° C., the setting property is good, and a sufficient stretch property can be obtained.
[0066]
The dyeing apparatus is not particularly limited, and a liquid jet dyeing machine, a Jigger dyeing machine, a Wins dyeing machine, or the like can be used.
[0067]
The finishing agent is not particularly limited, and a commonly used softener, water repellent, antistatic agent and the like can be used.
[0068]
The final set temperature is preferably from 150 ° C. to 170 ° C. like the intermediate set temperature.
[0069]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
[0070]
In addition, the measuring method, the evaluation method, etc. are as follows.
[0071]
(1) Intrinsic viscosity
The intrinsic viscosity [η] (dl / g) is a value obtained based on the definition of the following equation.
[0072]
(Equation 1)

[0073]
In the formula, ηr is obtained by dividing the viscosity at 35 ° C. of a diluted solution of a polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn or a polyethylene terephthalate yarn dissolved in an o-chlorophenol solvent having a purity of 98% or more by the viscosity of the solvent measured at the same temperature. And is defined as the relative viscosity. C is the polymer concentration in g / 100 ml.
[0074]
In the case of a composite fiber using two types of polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, it is difficult to measure each intrinsic viscosity of the filament. Was spun independently, and the intrinsic viscosities measured using the obtained yarns were defined as the intrinsic viscosities constituting the filaments of the composite fiber.
[0075]
(2) Initial tensile resistance
JIS L 1013 [Test method for chemical fiber filament yarn] According to the test method for initial tensile resistance, a tensile test was performed by applying an initial load of 0.0882 cN / dtex per unit fineness of the sample, and a load-elongation curve was obtained. The initial tensile resistance (cN / dtex) was calculated, and the average value of 10 times was obtained.
[0076]
(3) Stretch rate, stretch rate
JIS L 1090 [Synthetic fiber filament bulky processed yarn test method] Stretchability test method: Measure according to Method A, calculate stretch elongation (%), stretch elastic modulus (%), and average 10 times I asked.
[0077]
The elastic elongation and elastic modulus of the actual crimp were measured after leaving the sample unwound from the winding package in an environment of a temperature of 20 ± 2 ° C. and a humidity of 65 ± 2% for 24 hours.
[0078]
The stretch ratio and stretch modulus after the hot water treatment were determined by immersing the sample in hot water of 98 ° C. for 30 minutes with no load, and then naturally drying the sample for 24 hours with no load.
[0079]
(4) Thermal contraction stress
Using a thermal stress measurement device (manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd., product name: KE-2), the sample was cut into a length of 20 cm, a loop was formed by connecting both ends, and the sample was mounted on the measurement device. The initial load was 0.044 cN / dtex, and the load was increased. The shrinkage stress was measured at a temperature rate of 100 ° C./min, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. (cN / dtex) was read from the change curve of the heat shrinkage stress with respect to the obtained temperature.
[0080]
(5) Obvious crimp elongation and apparent crimp elasticity of false twisted yarn
Using a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, the false twisted yarn was gripped at an interval of 10 cm and the initial load was 0.9 × 10^-3After mounting at cN / dtex, the film was elongated at a tensile speed of 10 cm / min, and the elongation (%) when a stress of 0.0882 cN / dtex was reached was defined as the apparent crimp elongation.
[0081]
After that, the film is contracted again at the same speed to a gripping interval of 10 cm, and then a stress-strain curve is drawn again, and the elongation until the stress of the initial load appears is defined as the residual elongation (B). The apparent crimp modulus was determined by the following equation.
[0082]
Overt crimp modulus (%) = [(10−B) / 10] × 100
(6) Crimp elongation and crimp elasticity of false twisted yarn
The above (5) manifests except that the false twisted yarn unwound from the winding package is immersed in hot water of 98 ° C. under no load for 20 minutes, and then dried for 24 hours under no load. The measurement was performed in the same manner as the measurement of the crimp elongation and the apparent crimp elasticity, and they were defined as the crimp elongation and the crimp elasticity, respectively.
[0083]
(7) Stretch property and stretch back property of woven fabric
JIS L 1096 [General woven fabric test method] Elongation rate A method (constant speed elongation method), elongation recovery rate (repeated constant speed elongation method). However, the sample was stretched to 100% of the elongation recovery rate obtained by the elongation rate A method.
[0084]
Using a tensile tester (model: RTC-1210A) manufactured by ORIENTEC, a load corresponding to gravity applied to the sample (width 5 cm × length 1 m) was applied as an initial load, and a gripping interval of 20 cm (L0) was applied. The sample was stretched at a speed of 20 cm / min in a desired direction, stretched until a load of 14.71 N (1.5 kgf, 300 gf / cm) was applied, and the length (L1) was read. Then, after leaving for 1 minute, return to the original position at the same speed and leave for 3 minutes. The length (L2) at the time when the film was stretched again at the same speed and the same load as the initial load was applied was read.
[0085]
The stretch rate and the stretch back rate were determined by the following equations.
[0086]
Stretch rate (%) = {(L1-L0) / L0} × 100
Stretch back rate (%) = {(L1-L2) / (L1-L0)} × 100
(8) Measurement of the number of confounds
It was determined based on the measurement method described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,985,995.
[0087]
A sample was suspended by suspending a load of 0.18 cN / dtex (0.2 g / d) at the lower end of the confounding point having a sample length of about 1 m, and chromium plating having a diameter of about 0.7 mm was applied to the center of the yarn bundle above the sample. While the hook was inserted and supported by an insect pin or the like, it was once gently lowered until it was stopped at the confounding portion above the insertion position, and the descent length L (cm) was measured. This is repeatedly measured 50 times, and is a value obtained from the average L (bar) by 100 / L (bar). The lowering speed of the hook is 1 cm / sec.
[0088]
(9) Evaluation of fabric quality
The evaluation was performed by 10 skilled processing technicians according to the following criteria, and the average value was shown.
[0089]
5th grade; no nep, very beautiful woven fabric
Grade 3; Nep is a woven fabric
Grade 1; Nepple-rich fabric
<Manufacture of latent crimp developing polyester fiber>
Side-by-side type composite fibers having different intrinsic viscosities were produced according to Production Examples 1 to 3 below.
[0090]
[Production Example 1]
Two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities were extruded in a side-by-side ratio at a ratio of 1: 1 to obtain an undrawn yarn at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1500 m / min. Next, the obtained undrawn yarn is drawn and twisted at a hot roll temperature of 55 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C., a drawing speed of 400 m / min, and a draw ratio of 167 dtex. A 35f side-by-side type composite fiber was obtained.
[0091]
The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained conjugate fiber was [η] = 0.90 on the high viscosity side and [η] = 0.70 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretching and elongation and the elastic modulus of the apparent crimp, the stretching and elongation and the elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0092]
[Production Example 2]
A 165 dtex / 35f side-by-side type composite fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained conjugate fiber was [η] = 0.88 on the high viscosity side and [η] = 0.70 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretching and elongation and the elastic modulus of the apparent crimp, the stretching and elongation and the elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0093]
[Production Example 3]
A 165 dtex / 35f side-by-side type composite fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained conjugate fiber was [η] = 0.86 on the high viscosity side and [η] = 0.69 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the stretching and elongation and the elastic modulus of the apparent crimp, the stretching and elongation and the elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, and the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C.
[0094]
[Table 1]

[0095]
[Examples 1 to 3]
Using the composite fiber obtained in each of the above production examples, the first heater temperature was 170 ° C., the twist direction was two types of S twist and Z twist, and the number of false twists was 3200 T / m by IVF-338 manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho. Twisting was performed to obtain a false twisted yarn. The false twisted yarns of Examples 1 to 3 had an apparent crimp elongation of 180 to 200%, an apparent crimp elasticity of 85 to 90%, a crimp elongation of 200 to 250%, and a crimp elastic modulus of 85 to 93%. there were.
[0096]
The fiber obtained in Production Example 1 was used in Example 1, the fiber obtained in Production Example 2 was used in Example 2, and the fiber obtained in Production Example 3 was used in Example 3.
[0097]
Two of the obtained false twisted yarns were drawn and aligned, and entangled at 110 yarns / m by interlacing (pneumatic pressure: 0.3 MPa).
[0098]
Using this entangled yarn as the weft yarn, a yarn dyed yarn of spun 16 /-(369 dtex) purified cellulose fiber (registered trademark Tencel) yarn is used as the warp yarn, and a rapier loom (Ishikawa Rapier 2001; manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho) is used. The loom was woven at 450 rpm to obtain a greige fabric having a 3/1 twill structure with a warp density of 95 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft yarn density of 50 yarns / 2.54 cm.
[0099]
The obtained greige was sanforized at 90 ° C., sewed on the product, and washed (washed with hot water at 65 ° C.) and finished according to a conventional method. The fabric density of the product was a warp density of 130 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 53 threads / 2.54 cm.
[0100]
The woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 are all very good at class 4.5 or higher, and the stretch ratio / stretch back ratio in the weft direction is 30% / 93% in Example 1, and 27 in Example 2. % / 92%, and Example 3 was 26% / 93%, which was excellent in stretchability and stretchback properties.
[0101]
[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained by weaving and dyeing and finishing in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the false twisted yarn was used without imparting entanglement. The obtained woven fabric had a stretch ratio and a stretch back ratio of 29% and 92%, and had excellent stretchability as in Example 1, but the woven fabric quality was inferior to 2.5 class. Met.
[0102]
[Example 4]
A woven fabric was obtained by dyeing and finishing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that weaving was performed at 350 rpm by using a gripper loom (P7100; manufactured by Sulzer). The obtained woven fabric had a stretch ratio and a stretch back ratio of 29% and 91%, and had excellent stretchability as in Example 1, and the woven fabric quality was excellent at 4.5 class. .
[0103]
[Example 5]
In Production Example 1, POY having a breaking elongation of 100% was obtained by changing the spinning speed.
[0104]
Next, using a 33H false twisting machine manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. as a false twisting machine, the draw ratio was set so that the breaking elongation of the false twisted yarn became 35%, and the outlet of the false twist heater was set. Stretching false twisting was performed at a yarn temperature of 160 ° C. and a number of false twists of 3200 T / m to obtain a stretched twisted yarn of 84 dtex / 36f with one heater.
[0105]
The obtained drawn false twisted yarn had an apparent crimp elongation of 200%, an apparent crimp elasticity of 90%, a crimp elongation of 240%, and a crimp elastic modulus of 91%.
[0106]
A woven fabric was obtained by entanglement, weaving, and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the four false twisted yarns were used in combination. The obtained woven fabric had a woven fabric grade of 5th grade, and had excellent stretchability with a stretch ratio and a stretchback ratio of 29% and 92%.
[0107]
[Examples 6 and 7, Comparative Example 2]
Example 1 was repeated except that the number of entangled yarns was changed to 80 yarns / m (Example 6), 180 yarns / m (Example 7), and 40 yarns / m (Comparative Example 2). The fabric was woven and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a stretch ratio and a stretch back ratio of 28 to 30% and 91 to 93%, and had excellent stretchability as in Example 1. However, the fabric quality of Examples 6 and 7 was excellent at 4.5 grade or more, while that of Comparative Example 2 was poor at 3 grade.
[0108]
Example 8
A woven fabric was obtained by entanglement, weaving and dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the composite fiber obtained in Production Example 1 was used without being subjected to false twist processing. The obtained woven fabric had a woven fabric grade of 4.5, and the stretch ratio and the stretch back ratio were 14% and 85%.
[0109]
【The invention's effect】
According to the production method of the present invention, a woven fabric having excellent stretchability and quality without woven fabric defects such as weft spots can be produced by a rapier loom or a gripper loom.

Claims (3)

A fabric using a latently crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn in which at least one component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate and at least one of which is polytrimethylene terephthalate as a weft, is produced by a rapier loom or a gripper loom. A method for producing a woven fabric, wherein the multifilament yarn is a substantially non-twisted yarn having a number of entanglements of 50 / m or more. The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament yarn is obtained by combining two or more yarns. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament yarn is a false twisted yarn.