JP2001131837A - Soft stretch yarn and method for producing the same and fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To produce a soft stretch yarn which can solve the conventional problem of the strength of a tightening touch and the conventional problem of the rough stiffness of a fabric, and can provide a fabric having a more excellent soft stretch property than those of conventional fabrics, to provide a method for producing the same, and to provide a fabric. SOLUTION: This soft stretch yarn simultaneously satisfies a Uster irregularity of <=2.0, a stress of <=30×10-3 cN/dtex to the 50% elongation of the yarn, and a recovery of >=60%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a soft stretch yarn capable of imparting a soft stretch property to a fabric with excellent crimp development ability, a production method thereof, and a fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Prior Art Synthetic fiber fabrics are widely used because they are superior in durability, easy care and the like to natural fiber fabrics and semi-synthetic fiber fabrics. However, compared to natural fiber fabrics and semi-synthetic fiber fabrics, various improvements have been made since they are inferior in aesthetics and texture. By synthesizing these improvements, a cloth having a high texture even if it is a synthetic fiber has been developed, and has been widely used under the name of “new synthetic fiber”. This "new synthetic fiber" is used in the production of synthetic fiber fabrics.
A new high-quality feel completely different from the conventional synthetic fiber fabric, which has been obtained by both the advancement of the yarn-making technology and the advance of the high-level processing technology for fabric, has been accepted in the market. However, this new synthetic fiber does not reach the aesthetics and texture of natural fiber fabrics or semi-synthetic fiber fabrics. Further improvements in functionality and the like have been desired.

To solve this problem, for example, as a means of obtaining a fabric having a surface change, there is a method of using a pre-twisted false twisted yarn, but it is insufficient to obtain a new surface feeling, and the cost is low. There was a problem that soared. Further, there is a problem that stretchability cannot be imparted to the fabric due to twisting. In addition, there is a method of mixing a polyurethane-based elastic yarn to impart a stretch property to a fabric, but this method is very expensive, and when used together with a general-purpose synthetic fiber such as polyester, it is not dyed with a disperse dye. Due to dullness at the time of dyeing and poor heat resistance, there were problems of fabric surface roughness and rough curing.

[0004] For this reason, various polyester fibers using a side-by-side composite of polymers have been proposed as methods which do not use polyurethane fibers or false twisted yarns.

For example, JP-B-44-2504 and JP-A-4-308271 disclose polyethylene terephthalate (PE) having an intrinsic viscosity difference or an intrinsic viscosity difference.
T) Side-by-side composite yarn, JP-A-5-29563
No. 4 discloses homo-PET and copolymer P having higher shrinkage.
ET side-by-side composite yarns are described. If such a latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber is used, it is possible to obtain a certain degree of stretchability,
The stress generated when the fabric was stretched was high, that is, the fabric became hard with a strong tightening feeling, and recovery from stretching could not be sufficiently exhibited. The present inventors have found that this is because the side-by-side composite yarn of the combination of PET having a large difference in viscosity or difference in shrinkage as employed in the publication has a large resistance to crimp elongation. Was. Furthermore, the side-by-side composite yarn as described above has a problem in that the crimp development ability under the constraint of the fabric is low, or the crimp is easily set by external force. The side-by-side composite yarn does not use the stretch property of a polymer matrix like polyurethane-based fiber, but uses the crimp expression due to the polymer with a large difference in shrinkage between the composite polymers entering the inside for the stretch property. I have. For this reason, for example, if the polymer is subjected to heat treatment in a state where the shrinkage of the polymer is restricted as in the case of woven fabrics, the polymer is heat-fixed as it is, and the further shrinkage is lost.

Further, polypropylene terephthalate (PPT) which is a polyester having a slight stretch property
And JP-B-43-19108 describe a side-by-side composite yarn utilizing polybutylene terephthalate (PBT). However, Example 15 of the publication discloses that the elongation power is large, Estimated from the number of finished plain weaves, the experiment number XV-
In d, the generated stress for 30% elongation is 60 × 10 ⁻³ cN.
/ Dtex or more, which was also quite large, and also had a strong tightening feeling. Further, when the present inventors conducted additional tests, they had a drawback that worcester spots (U%) were poor and dye spots when formed into a fabric became large.

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the problems of the tightening feeling, the problem of coarse hardening of the fabric, and the problem of yarn spots, which have been problems with the conventional side-by-side composite yarn, and achieves soft stretchability and uniform dyeing. It is intended to provide a soft stretch yarn, a production method, and a fabric which can provide a fabric having excellent properties.

[0008]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention employs the following constitution. That is, (1) a soft stretch yarn characterized by simultaneously satisfying a worcester spot of 2.0% or less, a stress for 50% elongation of the yarn of 30 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex or less, and a recovery rate of 60% or more.

(2) The soft stretch yarn according to the above (1), wherein the strength is not less than 2.2 cN / dtex.

(3) The recovery rate for 50% elongation of the yarn is 7
The soft stretch yarn according to the above (1) or (2), which is 0% or more.

(4) The stress for 50% elongation of the yarn is 10
The soft stretch yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (3), which is not more than × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex.

(5) The soft stretch yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (4), wherein at least one component comprises a polyester side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite yarn in which polypropylene terephthalate is used.

(6) The strength is 2.2 cN / dtex or more,
The soft stretch yarn according to the above (5), wherein the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex or more.

(7) A side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite yarn made of polyester having a different melt viscosity ratio is spun at a spinning temperature of 250 to 280 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min or more, once wound and stretched. A method for producing a soft stretch yarn, comprising: drawing and heat setting at a draw ratio of 50 to 80 ° C. and a draw yarn elongation of 20 to 45% using a machine.

(8) A side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite yarn made of polyester having a different melt viscosity ratio is spun at a spinning temperature of 250 to 280 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min or more, and then spun without being wound once. Direct drawing method, drawing temperature 50-80 ° C, drawn yarn elongation 20-45%
A method for producing a soft stretch yarn, comprising: performing drawing at a draw ratio, heat setting, and winding.

(9) The melt viscosity ratio of the composite yarn is from 1.0 to 2.
5. The method for producing a soft stretch yarn according to the above (7) or (8), wherein

(10) A soft stretch blend comprising the soft stretch yarn according to any one of (1) to (6) and a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less. Thread.

(11) The above (1) to (6) and (1)
A fabric comprising at least the soft stretch yarn according to any one of (1) and (2).

(12) The fabric according to the above (10), wherein natural fibers and / or semi-synthetic fibers are mixed.

[0020]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the present invention, in order to achieve soft stretchability, it is important that the yarn has a low resistance to elongation and a high recovery rate against elongation.
This property can be evaluated by the stress when the yarn is elongated by 50% and the recovery rate in the hysteresis of the elongation curve (FIG. 1). In practice, the yarn is first skeined and heat-treated in boiling water for 15 minutes with substantially no load, followed by air drying and drying at 180 ° C. for 15 minutes. Then, the heat-treated yarn was used as a 4.4 × 1 yarn using an automatic tensile tester.
^{0 -3 cN / dtex (5mgf /} d) keep at initial tension, 50 at a rate of 100% / min to pull the yarn therefrom
% Elongation, return immediately to the elongation rate of 0% at the same speed, and draw a hysteresis curve (FIG. 1). And
The highest ultimate stress based on the initial tension is defined as the stress for 50% elongation. The recovery rate is the recovery rate (%) in FIG.
It is calculated by [(50−a) / 50] × 100%. Here, a is the elongation rate at the point where the generated stress becomes the initial tension in the recovery process of the hysteresis curve.

In the soft stretch yarn of the present invention, 5
The stress for 0% elongation is 30 × 10 ^-3cN / dtex or less
It is important that the
A soft fabric that has a tretching property and has no feeling of tightening
You can get it. On the other hand, conventional side
The stress for 50% elongation of the yarn is very high in the id composite yarn.
50 × 10^-3Tighten to exceed cN / dtex
Only a fabric having a strong feeling and a rough feeling can be obtained.
The stress for 50% elongation of the yarn is preferably 10 × 10
^-3cN / dtex or less. Also enough stretch
The recovery rate for 50% elongation of the yarn is 60
% Is important. Recovery rate is preferably 7
0% or more.

When the crimped diameter of the soft stretch yarn after the heat treatment is 250 μm or less, soft stretchability is easily exhibited, and when a fabric is formed, roughening of the fabric surface is suppressed and a high quality fabric can be obtained. Can be obtained and is preferred. The crimp diameter of the soft stretch yarn is more preferably 200 μm or less.

Further, when the crimping phases are uniform among the single yarns, fine crimps are formed on the fabric, and a beautiful surface of the fabric can be obtained. On the other hand, if the phase of the crimp is shifted between the single yarns, the fabric is likely to be a plain surface fabric and can be a fabric having good slipperiness.

Further, the crimp elongation ratio without load (E ₀ )
Is more than 50%, the stretchability is further improved, which is preferable. Here, the crimp elongation is an index indicating the degree of crimp, and the higher the value of the crimp elongation, the higher the degree of crimp and the higher the stretchability. E ₀ reflects the degree of crimping under a load-free condition. However, when the soft stretch yarn of the present invention is formed into a strongly twisted yarn or a woven fabric, the crimping is exerted by the restraining force due to the strong twist and the restraining force due to the woven structure. In some cases. Therefore, the crimp elongation under load is also important, and this characteristic can be estimated by the crimp elongation (E _3.5 ) when a load of 3.5 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex is applied. . In the soft stretch yarn of the present invention, E _3.5 is preferably 10% or more. On the other hand, JP-A-11-81
The polyethylene terephthalate-based side-by-side bicomponent filaments that are described in 069 JP etc. E _3.5 is 0.5%
In the case of a strong twisted yarn or woven fabric, crimp is hardly developed and the stretchability is poor.

Also, in order to overcome the strong twist and restraint of the woven fabric and to develop crimp, shrinkage stress is also important, and the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex (0.28 gf / d) or more. Is preferred. More preferably, the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.30 cN / dtex (0.34 gf / d) or more. Further, the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress is 110 ° C.
It is preferable that it is above.

The initial tensile resistance of the yarn is 60 cN.
If it is / dtex or less, the fabric becomes softer, which is preferable. The initial tensile resistance of the yarn is more preferably 50c
N / dtex or less.

Furthermore, in the high-order processing of the fabric, if the fabric shrinks excessively, it will be roughly cured, so the dry heat shrinkage of the soft stretch yarn is preferably 20% or less.

In the present invention, it is important that the Worcester spot, which is an index of the fineness spot (thickness spot), is 2.0% or less. As a result, not only the occurrence of the spots of dyeing of the fabric can be avoided, but also the spots of shrinkage of the yarn when the fabric is formed can be suppressed, and a beautiful fabric surface can be obtained. Worcester spots are preferably less than 1.2%.

The strength of the soft stretch yarn is 2.2 cN / dtex from the viewpoint of ensuring the passability of the soft stretch yarn in the high-order processing step and ensuring the tear strength when it is made into a fabric.
(2.5 gf / d) or more. The strength is more preferably 3.0 cN / dtex (3.4 gf /
d) It is above. Further, the elongation of the soft stretch yarn is preferably 20 to 45% from the viewpoint of handleability of the yarn.

The structure of the soft stretch yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but a side-by-side composite yarn or an eccentric core-sheath composite yarn composed of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) and polypropylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PPT). In this case, the stress for 50% elongation of the yarn is easily reduced, and at the same time, the recovery rate is easily improved. Further, if the difference in melt viscosity between the two polymers is made large, stretch characteristics such as a recovery rate against 50% elongation of the yarn and a crimp elongation rate are improved, which is preferable. Further, it is preferable to arrange the PPT inside the crimp because the stretchability is further improved.

The composite ratio of the polymer is not limited at all.
It is preferably up to 7/3. More preferably 4 /
It is 6 to 6/4, more preferably 5/5.

In the present invention, PET refers to a polycondensate using terephthalic acid as an acidic component and ethylene diol as a diol component, and PPT refers to terephthalic acid as an acidic component and 1,3-propanediol as a diol component. Polycondensate. Further, a part of the diol component and a part of the acid component may be substituted with another copolymerizable component in a range of 15 mol% or less. When the copolymer component is polyethylene glycol, the content is 15% by weight or less. They may also contain additives such as other polymers, matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments and the like.

However, if the melt viscosity difference of the polymer to be composited becomes excessively large, so-called yarn bending occurs, so that the spinnability deteriorates remarkably. For this reason, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open
It is necessary to use a complicated insertion-type base (see FIG. 2 (b)) as described in JP-A-43835, and the occurrence of abnormal retention of the polymer in the pack or the base may significantly reduce the spinnability. is there. Therefore, if the melt viscosity ratio of the two types of polymers is reduced, the simple parallel merged composite die (FIG. 2)
(A)), the Journal of the Textile Society of Japan, vol. 54, P-1
73 (1998) can avoid the problem of a decrease in spinnability due to the bending of the polymer in the die. Such a combination of melt viscosities has the advantage that operability can be greatly improved. Preferably, the melt viscosity ratio is between 1.0 and 2.5. Here, the melt viscosity ratio is defined by the following equation. Melt viscosity was measured under the same conditions as for normal melt spinning of polyester.
The temperature was set to 80 ° C. and the strain rate was set to 6080 sec ⁻¹ .

Melt viscosity ratio = V1 / V2 V1: Melt viscosity value of polymer having relatively high melt viscosity (poise) V2: Melt viscosity value of polymer having relatively low melt viscosity (poise) The cross-sectional shape is not limited at all. For example, a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 3 can be considered. Of these, those with a good balance between crimping and texture are semicircular side-by-sides with a round cross-section, but triangular cross-sections when aiming for a dry texture, lightweight, and hollow side-by-side when aiming for heat retention. Thus, the cross-sectional shape can be appropriately selected.

Although the method for producing the soft stretch yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, it can be produced, for example, as follows.

First, as a first preferred embodiment of the method for producing a soft stretch yarn of the present invention, a conventional spinning and drawing method is used.
The method by the step method will be described. That is, a side-by-side composite yarn composed of two types of polyesters having a melt viscosity ratio of 1.0 to 2.5 is formed at a spinning temperature of 250 to 280 ° C.
Spin at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min or more, wind up once,
This is a method in which a drawing machine having a hot roller is used to draw and heat-set at a drawing temperature of 50 to 80 ° C. and a draw ratio of a drawn yarn elongation of 20 to 45%. Hereinafter, a specific description will be given with reference to the drawings. In FIG. 4, the molten polyester is filtered through a filter 2 and spun from a spinneret 3. Then, the spun yarn is cooled by a cooling device, and after being supplied with oil by a refueling device 6, confounding is given by an air nozzle as necessary, and a first take-up roller (1GD) 8 and a second take-up roller After being picked up by (2GD) 9, it is wound up by a winder 10. Here, the peripheral speed of 1GD8 is the spinning speed. Next, the wound undrawn yarn 11 is drawn by a drawing device,
Heat setting is performed. For example, in FIG.
Is sent out from the feed roller (FR) 12,
Preheated by the first hot roller (1HR) 13 and 1
Stretching is performed between the HR 13 and the second hot roller (2HR) 14. After being heat-set by the 2HR 14, it is wound as a drawn yarn 16 via the cold roller 15.

Here, as the combination of the composite polymers, if the melt viscosity ratio is 1.0 to 2.5, the spinnability is improved, but if at least one of the polyesters is PPT or PBT, the soft stretch property is exhibited. Easy and preferred. More preferably, it is PPT. Further, in order to suppress yarn spots, it is important to select a spinning temperature and a spinning speed. Since the melting point of PPT is lower than that of PET by about 30 to 35 ° C., the spinning temperature is lower than the normal spinning temperature of PET.
It is preferable to set the temperature at 250 to 280 ° C. As a result, thermal degradation and excessive decrease in viscosity of PPT can be suppressed, a decrease in yarn strength can be prevented, and yarn spots can be reduced. The spinning temperature is more preferably from 255 to 275 ° C. Furthermore, by setting the spinning speed to 1200 m / min or more,
The cooling process in spinning is stable, and the fluctuation of the yarn sway and the solidification point of the yarn is largely suppressed, and the yarn spots can be greatly suppressed as compared with the yarn spun at a lower speed. This also has the advantage that the yarn strength can be increased. However, if the spinning speed is 30
At about 00 m / min, the stretch characteristics of the soft stretch yarn may be reduced, and it is preferable to avoid the stretch property. However, when the spinning speed is 5000 m / min or more, the stretch characteristics are improved, so that high-speed spinning is also preferably employed.

In stretching and heat setting, PPT is PE
It is preferable to consider that the glass transition temperature and the melting point are lower than T and the heat resistance is inferior. In particular, in order to suppress yarn spots, it is important to select a stretching temperature.
The temperature is preferably set to 0 ° C. This suppresses excessive crystallization and thermal deterioration of the yarn on the 1HR13. As a result, yarn sway, yarn spots due to fluctuations in the drawing point, and yarn breakage are reduced, and the yarn strength is also improved. The stretching temperature is preferably from 65 to 75 ° C. Further, in order to reduce the dry heat shrinkage of the drawn yarn, heat setting is performed subsequent to drawing, but when a hot roller is used as a heat setting device, 120 is used.
When using a hot plate, the shrinkage ratio is preferably set to 110 to 180 ° C., which is preferably about 110 to 180 ° C., because the shrinkage rate can be reduced to 20% or less.
When a heat plate is used as the heat setting device, the heat setting can be performed in a state where the molecular chains are strained, so that the shrinkage stress of the yarn can be increased, which is preferable. Furthermore, in order to develop the soft stretch property of the present invention, the draw ratio is important, and it is preferable to set the draw yarn elongation to 20 to 45%. This suppresses the occurrence of yarn breakage in the stretching process due to excessive high-magnification stretching, a decrease in soft stretchability, and the occurrence of yarn breakage in the fabric formation process. This makes it possible to avoid troubles such as panhiike.
The setting of the draw ratio is more preferably 25 to 25 in drawn yarn elongation.
35%.

Next, as a second preferred embodiment of the method for producing a soft stretch yarn of the present invention, a method by a direct spinning drawing method in which a spun yarn is drawn without being wound once will be described. That is, a side-by-side composite yarn composed of two types of polyesters having a melt viscosity ratio of 1.0 to 2.5 was formed at a spinning temperature of 250 to 280 ° C and a spinning speed of 1200 m /
After spinning for more than one minute, the film is drawn directly by a direct drawing method without spinning, and the drawing temperature is 50 to 80 ° C. and the drawn yarn elongation is 20 to
This is a production method in which stretching is performed at a stretching ratio of 45%, heat setting is performed, and then winding is performed. Hereinafter, a specific description will be given with reference to the drawings. In FIG. 8, the molten polyester is filtered by a filter 2 and spun from a spinneret 3. And
The spun yarn is cooled by a cooling device and supplied to a refueling device 6.
After the refueling is performed, confounding is given by an air nozzle as needed, and the first Hollo Nelson roller (1HN
R) 17, after being preheated, stretched with a second hot Nelson roller (2HNR) 18, heat-set at 2HNR 18, and wound up by a winder 10. Here, the peripheral speed of 1HNR17 is the spinning speed, the temperature of 1HNR17 is the drawing temperature, 2H
The temperature of the NR 18 becomes the heat setting temperature.

Here, as the combination of the composite polymers, if the melt viscosity ratio is 1.0 to 2.5, the spinnability is improved, but if at least one of the polyesters is PPT or PBT, the soft stretch property is exhibited. Easy and preferred. More preferably, it is PPT. Further, in order to suppress yarn spots, it is important to select a spinning temperature and a spinning speed. Since the melting point of PPT is lower than that of PET by about 30 to 35 ° C., the spinning temperature is lower than the normal spinning temperature of PET.
It is preferable to set the temperature at 250 to 280 ° C. As a result, thermal degradation and excessive decrease in viscosity of PPT can be suppressed, a decrease in yarn strength can be prevented, and yarn spots can be reduced. The spinning temperature is more preferably from 255 to 275 ° C. Furthermore, by setting the spinning speed to 1200 m / min or more,
The cooling process in spinning is stable, and the fluctuation of the yarn sway and the solidification point of the yarn is largely suppressed, and the yarn spots can be greatly suppressed as compared with the yarn spun at a lower speed. This also has the advantage that the yarn strength can be increased. However, if the spinning speed is 30
At about 00 m / min, the stretch characteristics of the soft stretch yarn may be reduced, and it is preferable to avoid the stretch property. However, when the spinning speed is 5000 m / min or more, the stretch characteristics are improved, so that high-speed spinning is also preferably employed.

In stretching and heat setting, PPT is PE
It is preferable to consider that the glass transition temperature and the melting point are lower than T and the heat resistance is inferior. In particular, in order to suppress yarn spots, it is important to select a stretching temperature.
The temperature is preferably set to 0 ° C. Thereby, 1HNR17
Excessive crystallization and thermal deterioration of the yarn are suppressed. As a result, yarn sway, yarn spots due to fluctuations in the drawing point, and yarn breakage are reduced, and the yarn strength is also improved. The stretching temperature is preferably from 65 to 75 ° C. Also, in order to reduce the dry heat shrinkage of the drawn yarn, heat setting is performed subsequent to drawing,
When the heat setting temperature is 120-160 ° C, the shrinkage ratio is 20
% Or less. Furthermore, in order to develop the soft stretch property of the present invention, the draw ratio is important, and it is preferable to set the draw yarn elongation to 20 to 45%. This suppresses the occurrence of yarn breakage in the stretching process due to excessive high-magnification stretching, a decrease in soft stretchability, and the occurrence of yarn breakage in the fabric formation process. Troubles can be avoided. The setting of the stretching ratio
More preferably, the direct drawing method of spinning is used instead of the two-step method of spinning and drawing as described above, in which the drawing yarn elongation is 25 to 35%. However, the crimping phase of the soft stretch yarn is likely to be random, and when the yarn is used without twisting, the shrinkage of the yarn in the fabric occurs randomly, resulting in a plain and good slipperiness. There is an advantage that a fabric is easily obtained.

Next, as a third preferred embodiment of the method for producing a soft stretch yarn of the present invention, in FIG. 9, a non-contact heater 19 is provided on the spinning line between the die 3 and the 1GD 8 so that the spinning speed is 4000 m / min or more. By using high-speed spinning, it is also possible to employ a simplified spinning direct drawing method in which heat drawing is performed after drawing automatically occurs in the non-contact heater 19 due to air resistance. At this time, since the yarn passes through the non-contact heater in a non-bundle state, it is stretched and heat-set separately between the single yarns, and further soft-stretched compared to the above-described hot roller-type spinning direct drawing method. This is preferable because the crimping phase of the yarn is likely to be random.

Next, as a fourth preferred embodiment of the method for producing a soft stretch yarn of the present invention, the spinning speed is set to 5000 m / min or more in FIG. Stretching occurs,
It is also possible to adopt a more simplified manufacturing method in which heat setting is performed by the heat of the yarn itself.

The soft stretch yarn of the present invention is preferably formed by twisting at 100 turns / m or more, since the crimping phase is easy to be uniform, and the stretchability is easily exhibited even in a fabric state. In general, when the side-by-side composite yarn is a strongly twisted yarn, crimp expression is poor and the stretchability is reduced. However, in the soft stretch yarn of the present invention, E _3.5 is significantly higher than that of the conventional PET-based side-by-side composite yarn. Therefore, a sufficient stretch property is exhibited even as a strong twisted yarn. The term “strong twist” as used herein refers to applying a twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 5000 or more, and the fineness of the yarn is 5 or more.
In the case of 6 dtex, the number of twists is 700 turns / m or more. The twist factor is determined by the number of twists (turns / m) and the fineness (dtex)
× 0.9).

The soft stretch yarn of the present invention can also be used without twist. In this case, if the crimp phase is shifted between the single yarns of the yarn, the surface of the woven fabric becomes plain, For example, it can be used as a stretch lining excellent in slipperiness. Another advantage is that the bulkiness is higher than when the crimps are even.

Further, when the soft stretch yarn of the present invention is used for knitting, it can be formed into an excellent stretch knit having soft stretch properties which cannot be obtained by conventional knitting. In particular, in the case of knitted fabrics, the fabric shrinks in a state where the binding force is weak in the high-order processing step, and the apparent shrinkage including the shrinkage due to crimping is large and the stitches are clogged. . Therefore, in knitting, the soft stretch property of the yarn itself is a particularly important parameter, and by using the soft stretch yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a soft stretch knit that could not be obtained in the past. Also,
When a soft stretch yarn having a uniform crimp phase is used, fine crimps are easily generated between stitches, and fine crimps are formed, so that a knitted fabric having high aesthetics can be obtained.

Further, when the soft stretch yarn of the present invention is used in combination with a low shrinkage yarn made of polyester or nylon having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less, not only the softness is further increased, but also the swelling feeling and rebound are obtained. The feeling is also improved, which is preferable. If the low-shrinkage yarn is present relatively on the outer periphery of the soft stretch yarn, it plays the role of a cushion, further improving the soft feeling, and increasing the yarn diameter as a multifilament, thereby improving the swelling feeling. Therefore, it is advantageous that the low shrinkage yarn has a lower boiling water shrinkage ratio, and more preferably the boiling water shrinkage ratio is more preferably 4% or less, and further preferably 0% or less. Further, it is advantageous that the initial tensile resistance of the low-shrink yarn is also low, preferably 50 cN / dt.
ex or less. Furthermore, since the softness of the low shrinkage yarn is improved when the single yarn fineness is small, the single yarn fineness is preferably 2.5 dtex or less, more preferably 1.0 dtex or less.

When the soft stretch yarn of the present invention is used in combination with a natural fiber and / or a semi-synthetic fiber, the natural fiber and the semi-synthetic fiber have excellent moisture absorption / desorption properties, contact cooling sensation, resilience and the like. It is preferable because stretchability can be added without impairing the texture. The term “mixed” as used herein means mixed fiber, cross weaving, cross knitting and the like. In order to balance the characteristics of the soft stretch yarn with the feel of the natural fiber or the semi-synthetic fiber, the total weight of the natural fiber and / or the semi-synthetic fiber is preferably 10 to 90% of the weight of the fabric.

The soft stretch yarn of the present invention can be used for socks, shirts, blouses, cardigans, pants, skirts,
It can be suitably used for one-piece, suit, blouson, lining and the like.

[0050]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to embodiments. In addition, the measuring method in the Example used the following method. A. Stress and recovery for 50% elongation of the yarn First, the yarn is skeined and heat-treated at substantially no load in boiling water for 15 minutes, followed by air drying and drying at 180 ° C for 15 minutes. Then, the heat-treated yarn was applied to the yarn at 4.4 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex (5
mgf / d), the yarn is stretched by 50% at a pulling speed of 100% / min, and then immediately turned back to 0% elongation at the same speed to draw a hysteresis curve (FIG. 1). ). The highest ultimate stress based on the initial tension is defined as the stress for 50% elongation. The recovery rate in FIG. 1 is the recovery rate (%) = [(50−a) / 50].
Calculate at × 100%. Here, a is the elongation rate at the point where the generated stress becomes the initial tension in the recovery process of the hysteresis curve. B. Crimp elongation rate (FIG. 6) Crimp elongation rate (%) = [(L1−L2) / L1] × 100
% L1: After treating the fiber skein with boiling water for 15 minutes, 1 more
After a dry heat treatment at 80 ° C. for 15 minutes, 180 × 10 ⁻³ cN /
Skew length when dtex load is suspended L2: After measuring L1, the suspended load is set to 180 × 10 ⁻³ cN / d
tex (0.2 gf / d) to 0.9 × 10 ⁻³ cN / d
Skein length when tex (1 mgf / d) is substituted E ₀ : Crimp elongation when heat-treated without load (no treatment load) E _3.5 : 3.5 × 10 ^-3 cN / dtex (4 mgf / d)
d) Crimp elongation when heat-treated under load Crimp Diameter The yarns obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples after the E ₀ measurement were sampled with as little force as possible, and observed with a scanning electron microscope (FIG. 7). And crimp 100
The diameter (outer diameter) was randomly selected and measured, and the average value was taken as the crimp diameter. D. Worcester spots (U%) USTER TESTER 1 manufactured by Zellweger
The measurement was performed in the normal mode while supplying the yarn at a speed of 200 m / min using Model C. E. FIG. Shrinkage stress Measured at a heating rate of 150 ° C./min with a thermal stress meter manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. The sample was a loop of 10 cm × 2, and the initial tension was fineness (decitex) × 0.9.
× (1/30) gf. F. Strength and Elongation An initial sample length = 50 mm, a tensile speed = 50 mm / min (100% / min), and a load-elongation curve was determined under the conditions shown in JIS L1013. The elongation was taken as the elongation divided by the initial sample length. G. FIG. Melt viscosity The melt viscosity was measured under a nitrogen atmosphere using a Capillograph 1B manufactured by Toyo Seiki. Measurement temperature 280 ° C, strain rate 6080
The measurement at sec ^-1 was performed three times, and the average value was defined as the melt viscosity. H. Initial tensile resistance The measurement was performed according to JIS L1013. I. Boiling water shrinkage and dry heat shrinkage Boiling water shrinkage (%) = [(L0′−L1 ′) / L
0 ′)] × 100% L0 ′: Skew of drawn yarn and initial load 0.18 cN / dt
ex (0.2 gf / d) Original length of skein measured under ex (0.2 gf / d) L1 ′: The skein measured L0 ′ is treated in boiling water for 15 minutes in a substantially load-free state, and the initial load is 0.1 after air-drying.
Skew length under 8 cN / dtex (0.2 gf / d) Dry heat shrinkage (%) = [(L0′−L2 ′) / L0 ′)]
× 100% L2 ′: The skein for which L1 ′ was measured was treated with 180 ° C. dry heat for 15 minutes in a substantially load-free state, and air-dried under an initial load of 0.18 cN / dtex (0.2 gf / d). Skein length J. Feeling Evaluation The fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to a sensory evaluation of softness, swelling, resilience, stretchability, dyed spots, and surface (aesthetics of the surface of the fabric) on a first to fifth grade. Class 3 or higher was accepted.

Example 1 Homo-PPT containing no titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 400 poise and titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 370 poise were added to 0.1 wt.
At a temperature of 260 ° C and 285, respectively.
C. and melted separately using a stainless steel non-woven filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm.
As a side-by-side composite yarn (FIG. 3 (b)) having a composite ratio of 1: 1 was discharged at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. from the parallel-merging composite spinneret (FIG. 2 (a)). The melt viscosity ratio at this time was 1.08. 168d at spinning speed of 1500m / min
The unrolled yarn of tex, 12 filaments is wound, and then the temperature of the first hot roller is set to 70 ° C. and the temperature of the second hot roller is set to 1 using a drawing machine having a hot roller.
Stretching was performed at 30 ° C. and a stretching ratio of 3.00. spinning,
The yarn-forming properties were good in both drawing and no yarn breakage. The yarn production conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn properties are shown in Table 2. However, the PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp development ability. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 200 μm, and the phases were uniform, resulting in a very high quality. Furthermore, its initial tensile resistance is 42c.
Soft enough with N / dtex, 11% dry heat shrinkage
Was sufficiently low shrinkage. The temperature at which the shrinkage stress reached its maximum was 128 ° C., which was sufficiently high.

[0052]

[Table 1]

[0053]

[Table 2]

Example 2 Homo PPT containing no titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 2900 poise and homo PET containing 0.03% by weight of a titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 370 poise at 280 ° C., respectively.
After melted separately at 85 ° C. and separately filtered using a stainless steel non-woven filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm, an insertion type composite spinneret having 12 holes described in JP-A-9-157951 (FIG. 2 (b)). )) To form a side-by-side composite yarn having a composite ratio of 1: 1 (FIG. 3 (b)) at a spinning temperature of 27.
Discharged at 5 ° C. 190 dt at spinning speed of 1350 m / min
ex, the unrolled yarn of 12 filaments is wound up, and then the temperature of the first hot roller is set to 80 ° C. and the temperature of the second hot roller is set to 13 using a drawing machine having a hot roller.
Stretching was performed at 5 ° C. and a stretching ratio of 3.40. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability and no breakage. The yarn production conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn properties are shown in Table 2, but the high-viscosity PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp development ability. The crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ is 175 μm.
It was very fine, and the phases were even and very high quality. Furthermore, its initial tensile resistance is 4
6 cN / dtex, which is sufficiently soft and the dry heat shrinkage is 9
%, Which was sufficiently low shrinkage. Further, the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress was 130 ° C. was sufficiently high.

Example 3 Homo-PPT containing no titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 1500 poise and homo-PPT containing no titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 400 poise were separately melted at 270 ° C. and 260 ° C., respectively. After separately filtering using a filter, a side-by-side composite yarn having a composite ratio of 1: 1 (FIG. 3 (b)) was inserted from an insertion type composite spinneret (FIG. 2 (b)) having 12 holes and described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-157941. As b)), discharge was performed at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. The unrolled yarn of 132 dtex and 12 filaments is wound at a spinning speed of 1350 m / min. Then, using a drawing machine having a hot roller, the temperature of the first hot roller is set at 65 ° C, and the temperature of the second hot roller is set at 130 ° C. Stretching was performed at a magnification of 2.35. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability and no breakage. The yarn production conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn properties are shown in Table 2, but the high-viscosity PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp development ability. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 190 μm, and the phases were uniform, resulting in very high quality. Furthermore, its initial tensile resistance is 22 cN / d.
The tex was sufficiently soft, and the dry heat shrinkage was 12%, which was sufficiently low shrinkage. Further, the temperature at which the contraction stress reached its maximum was 125 ° C., which was a sufficiently high temperature.

Example 4 Melt spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the spinning speed was 3000 m / min and the fiber was 77 dtex. Using this undrawn yarn, drawing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the drawing ratio was 1.40. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability and no breakage. Table 1 shows the spinning conditions.
The yarn physical properties are shown in Table 2, and the PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp development ability. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 220 μm, and the phases were uniform, resulting in very high quality.

Example 5 From side-by-side composite to eccentric core-sheath composite (FIG. 2 (h))
Melt spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the polymer and the composite ratio were changed as follows. At this time, titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 400 poise was added to 0.40
60% by weight of PET containing PET by weight as a sheath polymer, and 40% by weight of PPT containing no melt viscosity of 700 poise titanium oxide as a core polymer. Using this undrawn yarn, the draw ratio was 2.60 and the second hot roller temperature was 1
Stretching was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the temperature was changed to 40 ° C. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability and no breakage. The yarn production conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn physical properties are shown in Table 2, but excellent crimp developing ability was exhibited. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 240 μm, and the phases were uniform, resulting in very high quality.

Example 6 Melt spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the spinning speed was changed to 7000 m / min. This could be used in a wound state without stretching. The physical properties of the product are shown in Table 1, and showed excellent crimp developing ability. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 120 μm, and the phases were uniform, resulting in a very high quality. Further, the dry heat shrinkage was 5%, which was a sufficiently low shrinkage yarn.

Example 7 Melt spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the fiber cross section was changed to a hollow cross section (FIG. 3 (f)). Using this undrawn yarn, drawing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2 except that the draw ratio was set to 2.95. The yarn production conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn properties are shown in Table 2. However, the PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp development ability. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 240 μm, and the phases were uniform, resulting in very high quality.

Example 8 In Example 1, PPT was used, and the melt viscosity was 390 poise.
The yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) containing no titanium oxide was used to obtain a soft stretch yarn. Table 1 shows the spinning conditions.
The physical properties of the yarn are shown in Table 2, and showed good crimp development ability. However, the stress for 50% elongation is 10 × 10 ⁻³ c.
Since N / dtex was exceeded and the recovery rate was less than 70%, the softness and stretchability were a step further than in Example 1. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was 300 μm.

Example 9 In Example 2, PPT was used with a melt viscosity of 1050 pois.
Example 2 except that the PBT was not PBT containing no titanium oxide.
The yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a soft stretch yarn. The yarn-making conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn physical properties are shown in Table 2, but good crimp developing ability was shown. However, the recovery rate for 50% elongation is 70%.
%, The stretchability was one step further than that of Example 2. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was 280 μm, and the crimp phase was not uniform as compared with Example 2, and the quality of the crimp was one step higher than that of Example 2. I gave up. Furthermore, its initial tensile resistance was 55 cN / dtex and its softness was one step further than that of Example 2, but its dry heat shrinkage was 12%, which was sufficiently low shrinkage. The temperature at which the shrinkage stress reached its maximum was 128 ° C., which was sufficiently high.

Example 10 In Example 6, PPT was used with a melt viscosity of 390 poise.
PBT containing no titanium oxide, and a spinning speed of 600
Spinning was performed in the same manner as in Example 6 except that the speed was set to 0 m / min, to obtain an undrawn yarn. Stretching was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio was changed to 1.10. Thus, a soft stretch yarn was obtained. The yarn-making conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn physical properties are shown in Table 2, but good crimp developing ability was shown. However, since the recovery rate for 50% elongation was less than 70%, the stretchability was not higher than that of Example 6.
Was one step closer to Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was 260 μm.

Example 11 Homo-PPT containing no titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 700 poise and titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 370 poise were added to 0.1 wt.
At a temperature of 260 ° C and 285, respectively.
C. and melted separately using a stainless steel non-woven filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm.
As a side-by-side composite yarn (FIG. 3 (b)) having a composite ratio of 1: 1 was discharged at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. from the parallel-merging composite spinneret (FIG. 2 (a)). Then, using the spinning direct drawing apparatus of FIG. 8, the peripheral speed of the first hot Nelson roller 17 was 1500 m / min, the temperature was 75 ° C., the peripheral speed of the second hot Nelson roller 18 was 4500 m / min, and the temperature was 130 ° C. Similarly, spinning is performed, and 56 dtex, 12
The soft stretch yarn of the filament was wound up. Table 2 shows the physical property values of the obtained soft stretch yarn.
T entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp development ability. In addition, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was very fine, 200 μm, and was very high quality. Furthermore, its initial tensile resistance is 42 cN / d.
tex and was sufficiently soft, and the dry heat shrinkage was 10%, which was sufficiently low shrinkage. The temperature at which the shrinkage stress reached its maximum was 128 ° C., which was sufficiently high. In addition, the crimping phase was randomized, which was suitable for a non-twisted lining with excellent slipperiness.

Example 12 The non-contact heater 19 was set to a temperature of 190 ° C. and the spinning speed was set to 5000 m / min using the spinning direct drawing apparatus shown in FIG.
100 ° C. steam heat treatment was applied between D9 and the winder 10 and spinning was performed in the same manner as in Example 11. At this time, the yarn speed before entering the non-contact heater was 2200 m / min. The physical properties of the obtained soft stretch yarn are shown in Table 2, and the PPT entered the inside of the crimp and exhibited excellent crimp development ability. Further, the crimp diameter developed by the heat treatment for measuring E ₀ was 190 μm, which was very fine and very high quality. Further, the crimping phases were varied between the single yarns, and they were bulkier than in Example 2. Furthermore, the initial tensile resistance was 43 cN / dtex, which was sufficiently soft, and the dry heat shrinkage was 12%, which was sufficiently low shrinkage. Further, the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress is 126 ° C.
It was high enough. In addition, the crimping phase was randomized, which was suitable for a non-twisted lining with excellent slipperiness.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 A polymer combination was prepared by mixing homo-PTT containing no titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 400 poise with a melt viscosity of 400 poi.
Melt spinning and drawing under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the PET was homo-PET containing 0.03% by weight of titanium oxide, the yarn speed was 900 m / min, the spinning temperature was 286 ° C., the discharge rate and the draw ratio were changed. To obtain a drawn yarn of 56 dtex and 12 filaments. The yarn production conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn properties are shown in Table 2. The yarn crimping ability was exhibited to some extent. However, the spinning temperature was high, the ejection was unstable due to the thermal degradation on the PPT side, and the spinning speed of the undrawn yarn was low. Due to the low temperature, the fluctuation of the yarn sway and the solidification point during the spinning process became large. For this reason, the yarn strength of the drawn yarn was remarkably reduced, and the Worcester spots also became worse. Further, the stress for 50% elongation exceeds 30 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex,
Since the recovery rate was also less than 70%, the softness and the stretchability were lower than those in Example 1.

Comparative Example 2 A combination of the polymer of Comparative Example 1 and a spinning temperature of 280
Spinning was carried out in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min and a non-drawn yarn of 146 dtex and 12 filaments. Then, melt spinning and stretching were performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the stretching ratio was 2.70 times and the temperature of the first hot roller was 100 ° C., to obtain a stretched yarn. The spinning conditions are shown in Table 1 and the yarn properties are shown in Table 2, and although the crimping ability was exhibited to some extent, the temperature of the first hot roller was high.
PT deteriorated due to heat and thread breakage occurred frequently. In addition, the obtained drawn yarn also had low yarn strength, and had worse Worcester spots. Further, the stress for 50% elongation is 30 × 10 ⁻³ cN.
/ Dtex and the recovery rate was less than 70%,
The stretchability was lower than that of Example 1.

Comparative Example 3 Homo PET containing 0.03% by weight of titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 130 poise (intrinsic viscosity 0.46) and a melt viscosity of 2650 poise (intrinsic viscosity 0.77) was 275 each.
At 290 ° C. and separately filtered using a stainless steel nonwoven fabric filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm, and then having an insertion hole with 12 holes as described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-157941 (FIG. )) To obtain a side-by-side composite yarn having a composite ratio of 1: 1 (FIG. 3A) at a spinning temperature of 290.
Dispensed at ° C. The melt viscosity ratio at this time was 20.3. The undrawn yarn of 154 dtex and 12 filaments is wound at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min. Then, using a drawing machine having a hot roller, the temperature of the first hot roller is 90 ° C., and the temperature of the second hot roller is 130 ° C. After stretching at a magnification of 3.11, a 10% relaxation heat treatment was performed using a non-contact heater (heater temperature: 160 ° C.). Both the spinning and the drawing were poor in the spinning properties, and the yarns were frequently broken. Table 1 shows the yarn production conditions and Table 2 shows the yarn properties.
The stress with respect to% elongation exceeded 50 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex, and the soft stretch yarn of the present invention could not be obtained. In addition, E _3.5 = 0.5% and the crimp developing ability under the constraint was low. Furthermore, its initial tensile resistance was 75 cN / dtex and lacked softness.

Comparative Example 4 Homo PET containing 0.03% by weight of titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 2000 poise and copolymerized PET containing 0.03% by weight of titanium oxide obtained by copolymerizing 10 mol% of isophthalic acid as an acid component having a melt viscosity of 2100 poise. Are melted separately at 285 ° C. and 275 ° C., respectively.
After separately filtering using a stainless steel nonwoven fabric filter of μm, a parallel-merging composite spinneret having 12 holes (FIG. 2)
From (a)), a side-by-side composite yarn having a composite ratio of 1: 1 (FIG. 3B) was discharged at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. Then, at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min, 154 dtex, 12
The unrolled yarn of the filament was wound up. Then, using a stretching machine having a hot roller, the temperature of the first hot roller 90 ° C, the temperature of the second hot roller 130 ° C,
Stretching was performed at a stretch ratio of 2.75. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability and no breakage. Table 1 shows the spinning conditions
Table 2 shows the yarn physical properties.
It exceeded 0 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex, and could not be used as the soft stretch yarn of the present invention. E _3.5 =
The crimp expression ability under the constraint of 0.4% was low.

Example 13 The yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were used as raw yarns, and twisted at 700 turns / m.
A twist-prevention set was performed by steam at ℃. And 2
The knitted fabric was knitted with an interlock structure over an 8 gauge circular knitting. After a relaxing scouring at 90 ° C. according to a conventional method, an intermediate setting was performed at 180 ° C. After the alkali weight was reduced by 10% by weight according to a conventional method, the dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. Then, the texture of the obtained fabric was sensory evaluated (Table 3). Examples 1 to 10
The soft stretch yarn was soft and excellent in stretchability, and the fabric surface was rich in aesthetics. At the level using the raw yarns of Examples 1 to 7, the crimp diameters of the raw yarns were small and the phases of the crimps were uniform, so that particularly beautiful crimps appeared on the surface of the fabric, and the aesthetics were excellent. Was. In addition, no staining spots occurred and the quality was high. However, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, staining spots were generated, and the quality was inferior. In Comparative Examples 3 and 4, the texture was coarse and hard.

[0070]

[Table 3]

Example 14 The soft stretch yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were used as raw yarns, twisted with a number of twists of 1500 turns / m, and twisted with steam at 65 ° C. went. And plain weave was produced using the same yarn for the warp and the weft. At this time, the yarn density was 110 yarns / inch for the warp and 91 yarns / inch for the weft, and the torque balance was set as an alternate arrangement of S twist / Z twist. The obtained greige was processed as follows. First, relaxation scouring was performed at 90 ° C., and thereafter, intermediate setting was performed at 180 ° C. with dry heat using a pin tenter. Then, after a 15% alkali weight loss was performed by a conventional method, the dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. by a conventional method.

The texture of the obtained fabric was subjected to a sensory evaluation (Table 4). In the case where the yarns of Examples 1 to 10 were used as the original yarns, as expected from the characteristics of the original yarns, all exhibited good stretchability, but in Comparative Examples 3 and 4, the stretchability was inferior. At the level using the original yarns of Examples 1 to 7, the crimp diameter of the original yarns was small and the phases of the crimps were uniform, so that the fabric surface was not rough and was particularly rich in aesthetics.

[0073]

[Table 4]

Example 15 A plain weave was produced using the same yarn as the warp and weft while keeping the soft stretch yarn obtained in Examples 1, 11, and 12 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4 untwisted. The yarn density at this time is
The warp was 110 yarns / inch and the weft was 91 yarns / inch. The obtained greige was processed as follows. First 90
Scouring using a softer at ℃, then dry heat 180 ℃
The intermediate set was performed with a pin tenter. Then, after a 15% alkali weight loss was performed by a conventional method, the dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. by a conventional method.

The texture of the obtained fabric was subjected to a sensory evaluation. In the fabrics using Examples 1, 11, and 12, sufficient stretchability was obtained. However, in the case of Example 1, fine wrinkles remained on the surface of the cloth, though not so much as to cause a problem. On the other hand, in Examples 11 and 12, wrinkles did not occur and the fabric surface was plain and had good slipperiness, which was suitable for stretch lining. In Examples 11 and 12, Example 12 was more excellent in slipperiness. In the case of Comparative Examples 3 and 4, the expression of crimp of the yarn was weak due to the tension in the softer, and stretchability was not obtained.

Example 16 The soft stretch yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 3, 5, and 8 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were used as raw yarns, and PE yarns were obtained under the conditions shown in Table 5.
A mixed fiber with a low-shrinkage yarn made of T was prepared, and set with twist prevention by steam at 65 ° C. And Example 12
Weaving and processing were performed in the same manner as described above, and evaluation was performed.

The texture of the resulting fabric was sensory evaluated (Table 6). As expected from the yarn characteristics, the yarns of Examples had soft texture and good stretchability as expected from the yarn characteristics. However, the yarns of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 had strong coarseness. It became.

[0078]

[Table 5]

[0079]

[Table 6]

Example 17 The soft stretch yarn obtained in Example 2 was used as a raw yarn, twisted with a twist of 700 turns / m, and set to prevent twisting by steam at 65 ° C. This was used as a weft, and a plain weave was produced using a cuprammonium rayon "cupra" (83 dtex, 45 filament) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation as a warp. At this time, the warp density is 1
The number of wefts was 10 / inch and the number of wefts was 91 / inch, and the torque balance was set as an alternate arrangement of S twist / Z twist. The obtained greige was processed as follows. First, relaxation scouring was performed at 90 ° C., and then intermediate setting was performed at 150 ° C. with dry heat using a pin tenter. And it dyed at 100 degreeC.

The obtained woven fabric was soft and rich in stretchability, and exhibited a high dry feeling due to a large contact cooling sensation unique to cuprammonium rayon. Also,
The moisture absorption / release properties and the slipperiness of the fabric surface were also good.

Example 18 Viscose rayon "Sil" manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation
A woven fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 14 except that max "(83 dtex, 38 filaments) was used. The obtained woven fabric was soft and rich in stretchability. The repulsive feeling provided a crisp touch feeling, a high dry feeling due to a greater cooling sensation, and good moisture absorption / release properties.

Example 19 The soft stretch yarn obtained in Example 2 was used as a raw yarn, twisted with a number of twists of 550 turns / m, and set to prevent twisting with steam at 65 ° C. This and Example 14
The knitted fabric was knitted with an interlock structure using a mixture of the copper ammonia rayon used in the above and a 24 gauge circular knitting. This was subjected to relaxing scouring at 90 ° C according to a conventional method, and then dyeing at 100 ° C.

The obtained knitted fabric was soft and rich in stretchability, and further exhibited a high dry feeling due to a large contact cooling feeling peculiar to copper ammonia rayon. In addition, the moisture absorption / release properties and the slipperiness of the fabric surface were also good.

Example 20 A knit was produced in the same manner as in Example 16 except that the viscose rayon used in Example 15 was used instead of the copper ammonia rayon.

The resulting knit was soft and rich in stretchability. In addition, a vivid viscose rayon-specific excellent resilience provided a crisp tactile sensation, and a high degree of dryness due to a large contact cooling sensation was exhibited. Also, the moisture absorption / release properties were good.

[0087]

According to the present invention, a soft stretch yarn, a manufacturing method, and a fabric which can solve the problems of the strength of tightening feeling and the rough curing of the fabric, which have been problems in the past, and can provide a fabric excellent in soft stretch property than the conventional one. Is provided.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a strength-elongation curve hysteresis.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of a side-by-side composite spinneret.

FIG. 3 is a diagram illustrating an example of a fiber cross-sectional shape of a polyester fiber.

FIG. 4 is a diagram illustrating an example of a spinning / winding device.

FIG. 5 is a view showing a stretching device.

FIG. 6 is a view showing a crimp elongation rate measurement method.

FIG. 7 is an electron micrograph showing an example of a fiber shape of a soft stretch yarn.

FIG. 8 is a diagram illustrating an example of a direct spinning apparatus.

FIG. 9 is a diagram showing another example of the direct spinning apparatus.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: spin block 2: non-woven fabric filter 3: base 4: chimney 5: thread 6: lubrication guide 7: entanglement guide 8: first godet roller 9: second godet roller 10: winding yarn 11: undrawn yarn 12: feed roller 13: first hot roller 14: second hot roller 15: cold draw roller 16: drawn yarn 17: first hot Nelson roller 18: second hot Nelson roller 19: non-contact heater 20: steam conditioner

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D02J 1/22 D02J 1/22 NK D03D 15/00 D03D 15/00 BD 15/04 102 15/04 102A D04B 1/16 D04B 1/16 F term (reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AB05 AC01 AC02 BA02 DA05 EA06 FA01 4L036 MA05 MA15 MA17 MA24 MA33 MA39 PA01 PA03 PA12 PA33 RA03 UA01 UA07 4L041 AA08 AA10 AA14 BC20 BA02 BC05 CA06 CA08 DD01 DD04 EE09 4L045 AA05 BA03 BA18 BA21 BA36 BA49 BA51 BA57 BA60 CA09 CA25 CA40 CB13 DA42 DC02 4L048 AA21 AA22 AA28 AA30 AA48 AA50 AA51 AB07 AB09 AC07 AC11 AC12 BA01 BA02 CA04 CA12 CA13 DA01 EB04

Claims (12)

[Claims] 1. Worcester spots of 2.0% or less, 50% of yarn
A stress against elongation of 30 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex or less;
A soft stretch yarn having a recovery rate of 60% or more at the same time. 2. The soft stretch yarn according to claim 1, wherein the strength is not less than 2.2 cN / dtex. 3. The soft stretch yarn according to claim 1, wherein a recovery ratio of the yarn to 50% elongation is 70% or more. 4. The stress for a 50% elongation of the yarn is 10 × 10
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the pressure is less than ^-3 cN / dtex.
4. The soft stretch yarn according to any one of items 1 to 3. 5. The polyester side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core composite yarn wherein at least one component is polypropylene terephthalate.
4. The soft stretch yarn according to any one of 4. 6. The soft stretch yarn according to claim 5, wherein the strength is 2.2 cN / dtex or more and the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex or more. 7. A side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite yarn made of polyester having a different melt viscosity ratio is spun at a spinning temperature of 250 to 280 ° C. and at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min or more, and is once wound and stretched. And a stretching temperature of 50
A method for producing a soft stretch yarn, comprising stretching at a stretching ratio of from 80 to 80 ° C. and a stretching ratio of from 20 to 45% and heat setting. 8. A side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite yarn made of polyester having a different melt viscosity ratio is spun at a spinning temperature of 250 to 280 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min or more, and then directly spun without winding. By the stretching method,
A method for producing a soft stretch yarn, comprising stretching at a stretching temperature of 50 to 80 ° C and a stretching ratio of 20 to 45% of stretched yarn elongation, heat setting, and winding. 9. The method for producing a soft stretch yarn according to claim 7, wherein the melt viscosity ratio of the composite yarn is 1.0 to 2.5. 10. A soft stretch mixed yarn comprising a mixture of the soft stretch yarn according to claim 1 and a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less. 11. A fabric comprising at least the soft stretch yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and 10. 12. The fabric according to claim 10, wherein natural fibers and / or semi-synthetic fibers are mixed.