EP4089217B1 - Verfahren zum stricken und formen von gestricken mit unterschiedlicher dicke durch flachstrickmaschine und gestricke davon - Google Patents

Verfahren zum stricken und formen von gestricken mit unterschiedlicher dicke durch flachstrickmaschine und gestricke davon Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4089217B1
EP4089217B1 EP21172932.2A EP21172932A EP4089217B1 EP 4089217 B1 EP4089217 B1 EP 4089217B1 EP 21172932 A EP21172932 A EP 21172932A EP 4089217 B1 EP4089217 B1 EP 4089217B1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
weft
basic structure
knitting machine
flat knitting
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EP21172932.2A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP4089217A1 (de
Inventor
Chih-Chiang Lee
Ruei-Wen Shih
Po-Chun Chen
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Pai Lung Machinery Mill Co Ltd
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Pai Lung Machinery Mill Co Ltd
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Priority to ES21172932T priority Critical patent/ES3015186T3/es
Priority to EP21172932.2A priority patent/EP4089217B1/de
Publication of EP4089217A1 publication Critical patent/EP4089217A1/de
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B7/00—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/10—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles with provision for narrowing or widening to produce fully-fashioned goods
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/022—Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for knitting to form a fabric with varying thickness and a fabric thereof, and more particularly to a method for knitting and forming a weft-knitted fabric with varying thickness by a flat knitting machine and a weft-knitted fabric thereof.
  • three-dimensional fabrics have been invented for a long time, even though techniques of making three-dimensional fabrics with varying thickness have been developed, such as disclosed in CN102978823A , three-dimensional fabrics are always knitted independently. If the clothing design has a thick pad part formed by a three-dimensional fabric and a cloth surface part formed by a general knitted fabric, it is necessary to knit the three-dimensional fabric and the general knitted fabric separately, and then combine the two by sewing and splicing or using chemical adhesives. However, combining the three-dimensional fabric and the general knitted fabric by sewing and splicing will form spliced edges, which will greatly reduce the comfort of clothes.
  • clothing with thick pads is generally used as a close-fitting clothing, and the stuffiness caused by long-term wearing may produce qualitative changes in chemical adhesives, which may affect the wearer's skin.
  • chemical adhesives are not natural products, using excessively will also affect the environment.
  • US 2020/181813 A1 discloses a method for knitting and forming a weft-knitted fabric with varying thickness according to the preamble of claim 1, comprising a first region and a second region having a double jersey knit structure.
  • the distance between a first needle bed and a second needle bed is gradually increased at a constant rate, or linearly, as the course is formed, thereby forming a slope, and a spacer knit fabric of variable thickness.
  • the distance d remains constant during the formation of each course, thereby forming a plateau, and a spacer knit fabric of greater thickness than the other thickness regions.
  • a plurality of courses of a spacer knit construction are formed, the spacer knit construction comprising a first surface having a first set of loops formed on the first needle bed and a second surface having a second set of loops formed on the second needle bed, wherein the first surface is separate from the second surface.
  • the method further includes interlocking at least one spacer strand with each of the first surface and the second surface, and adjusting the spacing between the first needle bed and the second needle bed while forming the plurality of courses of the spacer knit construction.
  • a spacer strand is provided for connecting the first surface to the second surface. At least two spacer strands are provided for providing a support capability.
  • DE 10 2014 008725 A1 discloses a circular knitted textile fabric with at least one double-layered spacer structure 'and a method for its production, wherein a structural change from the double-layered spacer structure to a single-layered structure is completed, so that the circular-knit textile fabric has at least one structural change between the double-layered spacer structure and the single-layered structure.
  • the knitted textile fabric is provided with a single-layered structure for connecting the double-layered spacer structures at both sides, the structure is not integrally formed.
  • US 2016/353810 A1 discloses a bras, comprising a first region having a three-dimensional structure and a first structural property, and a second region having a second structural property, the first and second regions being joined by a seamless transition, and wherein the three-dimensional structure is formed via a dual bed, V-bed knitting machine such that both front and back beds of the machine are used to knit the three-dimensional structure.
  • the bras is provided with different numbers of yarns to form various thicknesses, but a supporting portion connected with the two surface layer portions and located between the two surface layer portions is not disclosed.
  • the invention has the following features: the weft-knitted fabric of the invention has the basic structure and the three-dimensional structure during knitting, through the three-dimensional structure generating varying thickness, conventional processing procedure of pasting three-dimensional objects afterwards is eliminated; furthermore, a position where the weft-knitted fabric of the invention forms the three-dimensional structure is not limited, and can be adjusted according to design.
  • the invention provides a weft-knitted fabric 10 with varying thickness.
  • the weft-knitted fabric 10 is knitted by a flat knitting machine 30 (as shown in Fig. 2 ).
  • the weft-knitted fabric 10 comprises at least one basic structure 11 and at least one three-dimensional structure 12.
  • the basic structure 11 is a general fabric structure without support function.
  • the basic structure 11 can be a single-layer fabric or a double-layer fabric. Structures of the single-layer fabric and the double-layer fabric are known to those having ordinary skill in the art, and thus will not be described here.
  • the three-dimensional structure 12 and the basic structure 11 are integrally knitted, that is, the three-dimensional structure 12 is not connected by splicing or other methods after the basic structure 11 is knitted.
  • a thickness of the three-dimensional structure 12 is greater than a thickness of the basic structure 11, so when observing the weft-knitted fabric 10 laterally (as viewed from a visual angle in Fig. 1 ), changes in thickness can be found. It should be understood that varying thickness or changes in thickness referred to in this specification is not thickness formed by stacking yarn layers, but changes produced when being observed laterally.
  • the three-dimensional structure 12 comprises two surface layer portions 121, 122 and a supporting portion 123 connected with the two surface layer portions 121, 122 and located between the two surface layer portions 121, 122, and a junction between the three-dimensional structure 12 and the basic structure 11 is without the supporting portion 123.
  • the three-dimensional structure 12 is formed by at least one supporting yarn 124, wherein the supporting yarn 124 deforms when at least one of the two surface layer portions 121, 122 is pressed by force.
  • the three-dimensional structure 12 can be regarded as a thick pad directly formed on the weft-knitted fabric 10. Therefore, the weft-knitted fabric 10 of the invention can be used as a breast pad in women's clothing or a cushion pad in sportswear.
  • the invention also provides a method 20.
  • the flat knitting machine 30 knits the weft-knitted fabric 10.
  • the method 20 comprises steps of
  • the basic structure 11 is used as the single-layer fabric to explain the method 20, and it is assumed that the flat knitting machine 30 is ready to knit the basic structure 11 (the step 21).
  • a machine head 33 on the flat knitting machine 30 drives one of the two needle beds 31, 32 to knit the basic structure 11 based on setting of a knitting process.
  • the machine head 33 drives the two needle beds 31, 32 to knit the two surface layer portions 121, 122.
  • one of the two surface layer portions 121 (or 122) is continuously knitted and formed from the basic structure 11, the other of the two surface layer portions 122 (or 121) is knitted and formed at this point of time.
  • the flat knitting machine 30 When the surface layer portion 122 is formed initially, the flat knitting machine 30 is set to use transfer knitting technique or tuck knitting technique to connect the surface layer portion 121 with the basic structure 11. Further, the flat knitting machine 30 is controlled to be temporarily suspended from feeding the supporting yarn 124 at a junction 13 between the three-dimensional structure 12 and the basic structure 11, and the supporting yarn 124 is fed to form the supporting portion 123 after the two surface layer portions 121, 122 are knitted with a plurality of stitches. Therefore, the weft-knitted fabric 10 of the invention is a bag-like structure at the junction 13 between the three-dimensional structure 12 and the basic structure 11. A point of time of feeding the supporting yarn 124 is after several stitches of the two surface layer portions 121, 122 are knitted.
  • a number of stitches temporarily suspended to be knitted can be adjusted based on characteristics of the weft-knitted fabric 10.
  • the supporting portion 123 is formed between the two surface layer portions 121, 122.
  • the supporting portion 123 prevents the two surface layer portions 121, 122 from being closely attached to each other, so that the three-dimensional structure 12 is visually thicker than the basic structure 11.
  • the method 20 of the invention is not limited to be ended immediately after completion of knitting of the three-dimensional structure 12.
  • the basic structure 11 is knitted again after the three-dimensional structure 12 is completed with knitting, as shown in Fig. 4 .
  • the basic structure 11 is used as the double-layer fabric to explain the method 20, and it is assumed that the flat knitting machine 30 is ready to knit the basic structure 11 (the step 21).
  • the machine head 33 simultaneously drives the two needle beds 31, 32 to knit the basic structure 11 based on setting of a knitting process and to produce two fabric surfaces 111, 112 that constitute the double-layer fabric.
  • the flat knitting machine 30 is set to use transfer knitting technique, tuck knitting technique, or a method of additionally feeding a cross-linking yarn 113, so that the two fabric surfaces 111, 112 are cross-linked and closely attached to each other.
  • the two surface layer portions 121, 122 are continuously knitted from the two fabric surfaces 111, 112. It should be noted that at a junction 13 of converting from the basic structure 11 to the three-dimensional structure 12 does not comprises any structure to connect the two surface layer portions 121, 122.
  • the supporting portion 123 is implemented with drop stitches at a junction between the basic structure 11 and the three-dimensional structure 12. Afterwards, the supporting yarn 124 is fed to knit the three-dimensional structure 12, knitting of the three-dimensional structure 12 is the same as described above and thus will not be repeated.
  • a thickness of the three-dimensional structure 12 is determined by a length of the supporting yarn 124, and a length of the supporting yarn 124 during knitting process depends on a width of a mouth 34 (shown in Fig. 2 and Fig. 6 ) of the flat knitting machine 30. It should be understood that changes in a width of the mouth 34 also affect a forming size of yarn loops. When a width of the mouth 34 is larger, knitted yarn loops will become larger, and it will be difficult for excessively large sized yarn loops to form fabric surface structure. Therefore, if a size of the mouth 34 cannot be changed during knitting process, in designing a thickness of the three-dimensional structure 12, a size of yarn loops of the basic structure 11 and the two surface layer portions 121, 122 must be considered.
  • the flat knitting machine 30 is capable of changing a width of the mouth 34 without stopping knitting during knitting process, the problem that a thickness of the three-dimensional structure 12 being limited by a single width of the mouth 34 can be tackled.
  • the applicant of the invention has provided flat knitting machine structures with variable mouth width during knitting process as disclosed in Taiwan Patent No. TW 202028555A , TW 202028557A , TW 202028558A , and TW I707074 . Please refer to Fig. 7 .
  • the flat knitting machine 30 When the flat knitting machine 30 is controlled to knit the supporting portion 123 of the three-dimensional structure 12, the flat knitting machine 30 drives two knock-over bits 311, 321 of the two needle beds 31, 32 to displace to change a size of the mouth 34 of the flat knitting machine 30, until a size of the mouth 34 is adjusted to meet the knitting requirements, the flat knitting machine 30 performs knitting of the supporting portion 123. In this way, a height of the supporting portion 123 will no longer be a fixed value, and the three-dimensional structure 12 will no longer have a single thickness but is capable of varying in thickness, as shown in Fig. 8 .
  • the three-dimensional structure 12 on the weft-knitted fabric 10 of the invention does not limit a knitting position, and a knitting position can be determined according to fabric design requirements of the weft-knitted fabric 10.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Verfahren (20) zum Stricken und Formen eines Gestricks (10) mit variierender Dicke durch eine Rundstrickmaschine (30), wobei das Verfahren (20) die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    Antreiben der Rundstrickmaschine (30), um eine Grundstruktur (11) durch mindestens eines von zwei Nadelbetten (31, 32) der Rundstrickmaschine (30) zu stricken, wobei die Grundstruktur (11) aus einem einlagigen Gestrick oder einem zweilagigen Gestrick ausgewählt ist; und
    Steuern der beiden Nadelbetten (31, 32) auf der Rundstrickmaschine (30), um eine dreidimensionale Struktur (12) zu stricken, die mit der Grundstruktur (11) verbunden ist, wobei eine Dicke der dreidimensionalen Struktur (12) größer ist als eine Dicke der Grundstruktur (11), die dreidimensionale Struktur (12) zwei Oberflächenschichtabschnitte (121, 122) und einen Stützabschnitt (123) aufweist, der mit den beiden Oberflächenschichtabschnitten (121, 122) verbunden ist und sich zwischen den beiden Oberflächenschichtabschnitten (121, 122) befindet;
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass
    die Rundstrickmaschine (30) so gesteuert wird, dass sie vorübergehend an einer Verbindungsstelle (13) zwischen der dreidimensionalen Struktur (12) und der Grundstruktur (11) kein Stützgarn (124) zuführt, so dass die Verbindungsstelle (13) ohne den Stützabschnitt (123) ausgebildet ist und das Stützgarn (124) zugeführt wird, um den Stützabschnitt (123) zu bilden, nachdem die beiden Oberflächenschichtabschnitte (121, 122) mit einer Vielzahl von Maschen gestrickt sind.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei während eines Strickvorgangs des Stützabschnitts (123) die Rundstrickmaschine (30) zwei Abstreifnadeln (311, 321) der beiden Nadelbetten (31, 32) antreibt, um eine Öffnung (34) der Rundstrickmaschine (30) zu verschieben und ihre Größe zu verändern, und eine Höhe des Stützabschnitts (123) kein fester Wert ist.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 2, wobei, wenn die Grundstruktur (11) das zweilagige Gestrick ist, zwei Gestrickoberflächen (111, 112) des zweilagigen Gestricks durch Fangstricken oder Transferstricken durch die Rundstrickmaschine (30) eng aneinander liegend miteinander verbunden werden.
  4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei, wenn die Grundstruktur (11) das zweilagige Gestrick ist, die Rundstrickmaschine (30) ein Vernetzungsgarn (113) zuführt, so dass zwei Gestrickoberflächen (111, 112) des zweilagigen Gestricks durch die Wirkung des Vernetzungsfadens (113) eng aneinander liegend miteinander verbunden werden können, und der Vernetzungsfaden (113) keine Stützfähigkeit aufweist.
  5. Schussgestricktes Gestrick (10) mit variierender Dicke, umfassend:
    mindestens eine Grundstruktur (11), ausgewählt aus einem einlagigen Gestrick oder einem zweilagigen Gestrick; und
    mindestens eine dreidimensionale Struktur (12), die mit der Grundstruktur (11) verbunden ist, wobei die Dicke der dreidimensionalen Struktur (12) größer ist als die Dicke der Grundstruktur (11), wobei die dreidimensionale Struktur (12) zwei Oberflächenschichtabschnitten (121, 122) und einen mit den beiden Oberflächenschichtabschnitten (121, 122) verbundenen und zwischen den beiden Oberflächenschichtabschnitten (121, 122) angeordneten Stützabschnitt (123) umfasst,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass
    der Stützabschnitt (123) durch mindestens ein Stützgarn (124) gebildet ist, dessen Zuführung an einer Verbindungsstelle (13) zwischen der dreidimensionalen Struktur (12) und der Grundstruktur (11) vorübergehend unterbrochen ist, so dass die Verbindungsstelle (13) ohne den Stützabschnitt (123) ausgebildet ist.
  6. Schussgestrickte Gestrick nach Anspruch 5, wobei die Höhe des Stützabschnitts (123) ohne festen Wert ist.
  7. Verwendung des schussgestrickten Gestricks nach Anspruch 5 oder 6 als Brustpolster in Damenbekleidung oder als Polsterkissen in Sportbekleidung.
EP21172932.2A 2021-05-10 2021-05-10 Verfahren zum stricken und formen von gestricken mit unterschiedlicher dicke durch flachstrickmaschine und gestricke davon Active EP4089217B1 (de)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ES21172932T ES3015186T3 (en) 2021-05-10 2021-05-10 Method for knitting and forming weft-knitted fabric with varying thickness by flat knitting machine and weft-knitted fabric thereof
EP21172932.2A EP4089217B1 (de) 2021-05-10 2021-05-10 Verfahren zum stricken und formen von gestricken mit unterschiedlicher dicke durch flachstrickmaschine und gestricke davon

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EP21172932.2A EP4089217B1 (de) 2021-05-10 2021-05-10 Verfahren zum stricken und formen von gestricken mit unterschiedlicher dicke durch flachstrickmaschine und gestricke davon

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EP4089217A1 EP4089217A1 (de) 2022-11-16
EP4089217B1 true EP4089217B1 (de) 2025-01-29

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CN102560840A (zh) * 2010-12-20 2012-07-11 株式会社岛精机制作所 立体编织物和其编制方法及运动护身带

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CN102978823A (zh) 2012-11-23 2013-03-20 福建福联精编有限公司 一种异形三维立体针织物及其制造方法
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EP3702501B1 (de) * 2019-03-01 2022-02-16 Pai Lung Machinery Mill Co., Ltd. Verfahren zum stricken von dreidimensionalem gewebe mit variabler dicke durch eine flachstrickmaschine

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JP2002020950A (ja) * 2000-07-07 2002-01-23 Yookusu Kk インナーウエアにおける二層編地構造
CN102560840A (zh) * 2010-12-20 2012-07-11 株式会社岛精机制作所 立体编织物和其编制方法及运动护身带

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EP4089217A1 (de) 2022-11-16

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