EP3861884A1 - Faserstrang eines uhrenarmbands - Google Patents

Faserstrang eines uhrenarmbands Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3861884A1
EP3861884A1 EP21166514.6A EP21166514A EP3861884A1 EP 3861884 A1 EP3861884 A1 EP 3861884A1 EP 21166514 A EP21166514 A EP 21166514A EP 3861884 A1 EP3861884 A1 EP 3861884A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
strand
reinforcement
fixing
connecting element
blade
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21166514.6A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Adrien Catheline
Félix GRASSER
Frédéric Oulevey
Daniele-Antonio Bianco
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rolex SA
Original Assignee
Rolex SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from CH00620/11A external-priority patent/CH704771B1/fr
Application filed by Rolex SA filed Critical Rolex SA
Publication of EP3861884A1 publication Critical patent/EP3861884A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/0053Flexible straps
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/14Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps characterised by the way of fastening to a wrist-watch or the like

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a reinforcement for a watch strap strand.
  • the invention also relates to a strand for a bracelet comprising such a reinforcement.
  • the invention also relates to a bracelet comprising at least one such strand.
  • the invention relates to a watch comprising at least one such part.
  • the aim of the invention is to provide a bracelet overcoming the drawbacks mentioned above and improving the bracelets known from the prior art.
  • the invention provides an efficient and comfortable bracelet.
  • the invention also proposes a watch comprising such a bracelet.
  • a reinforcement according to a first aspect of the invention is defined by claim 1.
  • a bracelet strand according to the invention is defined by claim 11.
  • Embodiments of the bracelet strand according to the invention are defined by claims 12 and 13.
  • a bracelet according to the invention is defined by claim 14.
  • a watch according to the invention is defined by claim 15.
  • the bracelet strand is of the flexible type, in particular of the hybrid type, that is to say of flexible material but comprising a reinforcement.
  • the bracelet strand comprises a reinforcement 2 placed in an envelope made of flexible material.
  • the reinforcement is preferably made from a first material and the casing 3 is made from a second material.
  • the first material is metallic, in particular an alloy, in particular a superelastic alloy or a shape memory alloy.
  • the second material is flexible.
  • An elastomer, such as rubber, a polymer or leather, can in particular be used as the second material.
  • a strand is preferably produced, the architecture of which is based on a central core or reinforcement and an envelope implemented around the core, that is to say at least partially coating the core.
  • the reinforcement makes it possible to ensure high performance in terms of mechanical resistance of the strand, in particular in terms of tensile strength (high strength) and in deformation thereof under stress (low deformation). Complementarily or alternatively, the reinforcement makes it possible to ensure high performance in terms of mechanical resistance of the strand to bending.
  • the envelope (or coating of the strand) at least partially surrounding the reinforcement allows for its main functions of comfort and aesthetics, in particular by making it possible to obtain a desired flexibility and / or a desired lightness and / or a desired geometry.
  • the envelope is preferably overmolded on the reinforcement, in particular when it is made of an elastomeric material.
  • the envelope can also be assembled by gluing and / or by sewing around the reinforcement when it is made of leather.
  • an opening 30 can be made in the casing in order to reveal the reinforcement 2.
  • the visible part of the reinforcement can then be treated to avoid any deterioration of the latter.
  • the opening can have an aesthetic function and / or the function of revealing the technicality of the bracelet strand.
  • the reinforcement comprises an element 6 for fixing the strand to the watch case and an element 5 for fixing the strand to a closure element.
  • the reinforcement comprises a connecting element 4 mechanically connecting the element 6 for fixing the strand to the watch case to the element 5 for fixing the strand to a closure element.
  • the element 6 for fixing the strand to the watch case comprises a tube 10 and / or the element 5 for fixing the strand to the closure element comprises a tube 9.
  • the fixing element 6 of the strand to the watch case is produced by a first end of the connecting element, and / or the element 5 for fixing the strand to a closure element is produced by a second end of the connecting element.
  • the reinforcement 2 mainly comprises a blade 4, in particular a metal blade, in particular a blade made of superelastic metal alloy.
  • the element 6 for fixing the strand to the watch case is intended to cooperate with a second fixing element provided to secure the strand to the watch case, in particular to the horns.
  • the first and second elements constitute a tie.
  • the element 5 for fixing the strand to a closure element is intended to cooperate with a second fixing element provided to secure the strand to the closure element, which may in particular be a buckle or a clasp, by example a folding clasp.
  • the first and second elements constitute a tie.
  • the element 6 for fixing the strand to the watch case and / or the element 5 for fixing the strand to a closing element is made by means of a tube assembled to the blade 4 by welding or soldering 19
  • the tube 9 and / or 10 can also have an extra thickness and / or a groove intended to receive the end of the blade and to facilitate and / or improve the performance of the weld or solder.
  • the tube shown has a groove to receive the blade 4.
  • a bar, a screw or a pin, constituting the second fixing element, is then engaged in each tube 9 and / or 10 to fix the strand to the watch case or to the closure element.
  • the tubes are preferably chosen from the same material as the material of the metal strip constituting the reinforcement.
  • the material of the tubes is preferably a superelastic metal alloy, more preferably the same superelastic alloy as that used for the blade, in particular an NiTi alloy.
  • This advantageous combination allows a robust assembly of the tubes at the ends of the blade.
  • the assembly of the tubes at the ends of the blade is preferably carried out by welding, the welding being more preferably of the laser type.
  • the recommended assembly by laser welding allows localized melting of the material and therefore secures the end of the blade and the tube, without external input of material, while ensuring excellent mechanical performance and good corrosion resistance.
  • the dimensions of the tubes are typically between 1 and 2.5 mm outside diameter.
  • the box / strand attachment tube 10 is preferably provided with notches 101 to avoid damaging the casing when using a bar clamp to mount the strand on the middle part.
  • tubes made of Phynox, Nivaflex or equivalent material could also be used, with the risk that the assembly of the tubes at the ends of the blade would be more difficult to achieve.
  • the tube 10 for attaching to the watch case must be much shorter to allow this compression.
  • the element 6 'for fixing the strand to the watch case and / or the element 5' for fixing the strand to a closure element is produced by folding the end of the blade 4 '. Indeed, the first end is folded to form a passage 8 or a loop and part 20 of the end is folded over the blade 4 '. This folded or folded part 20 is fixed to the blade, in particular by riveting. To do this, the blade and the fold have holes intended to come face to face and to receive rivets 12.
  • the second end of the blade is preferably shaped. in the same way, in order to make a passage 7 or a loop, the blade and the fold have holes intended to come face to face and to receive rivets 14.
  • the reinforcement In order to ensure the performance of the strand, the reinforcement must be connected to the attachments while maintaining its performance as well as possible.
  • the riveted fold at each end makes it possible to provide a passage for a bar, a screw or a pin intended for fixing the strand.
  • a tube 10 ' can be placed in the passage 8 and / or a tube 9' can be placed in the passage 7 made at the other end of the reinforcement.
  • the reinforcement can thus be folded around the tube or tubes.
  • a bar, a screw or a pin, constituting the second fixing element, is then engaged in each tube to fix the strand to the watch case or to the closure element.
  • the tubes 9 'and / or 10' are optional since the bars, screws or pins could directly engage in the passages 7 or 8 without the presence of a tube. However, the presence of the tubes is preferred.
  • the tubes are preferably chosen from a material Phynox, Nivaflex, superelastic alloy or equivalent, which makes it possible to ensure, on the one hand, good mechanical performance and, on the other hand, good resistance to corrosion.
  • the dimensions of the tubes are typically between 1 and 2.5 mm outside diameter.
  • the box / strand attachment tube 10 ' is preferably provided with notches 101 to avoid damaging the casing when using a bar clamp to mount the strand on the middle part.
  • the first and second embodiments can be combined on the same reinforcement, with the first embodiment at a first end and the second embodiment at a second end.
  • the reinforcement is first produced which makes it possible to mechanically connect the element for fixing the strand to the watch case to the element for fixing the strand to the closure element.
  • a mechanical tensile action of 50N, or even 100N, or even 200N, on the reinforcement does not make it possible to deform the reinforcement and the fixing element, as is the case in the prior art.
  • a mechanical tensile action on an axis or a bar located in the tube 9 or 10 does not make it possible to release the tube or the other element of the reinforcement, except to break the reinforcement.
  • the fasteners of the fasteners are secured to the reinforcement.
  • the main role of the reinforcement 2 is to ensure the mechanical strength of the strand. Taking into account the need to have a flexible strap and the criterion of resistance to different forces, the reinforcement mainly comprises a metal strip or a metal blade 4. In particular, the use of a superelastic metal alloy also makes it possible to improve the resistance. folding resistance.
  • a superelastic alloy is advantageously used for the reinforcement.
  • Superelasticity is manifested in some very specific alloys which show a transition between an austenitic phase and a martensitic phase. Superelasticity is characterized by the complete recovery of the shape of the sample when the applied stress ceases. In the temperature range where the austenite is stable, the martensitic transformation can be caused under stress. The stress is exerted first in the elastic strain domain of the austenite, with a stress proportional to the strain. Above a critical value, austenite turns into martensite.
  • Nitinol nickel and Titanium NiTi
  • CuAIBe CuAINi
  • CuZnAI alloys can also be used.
  • the NiTi alloy reinforcement in particular an NiTi alloy blade assembled by laser welding to the NiTi alloy tubes, has excellent mechanical and corrosion resistance, even in unfavorable cases (association of materials favoring the equivalent of galvanic corrosion and prestressing of the metal blade), and this after two months of salt spray test.
  • the blades used can have an initial curvature of zero and the curvature of the strand can be obtained during the molding of the casing. It is also possible to envisage giving the blade an initial curvature (preform) with a suitable manufacturing process.
  • the reinforcement can be dimensioned on its own without taking the envelope into account. It remains obvious that the addition of a casing further improves the tensile strength.
  • the NIHS 92-11 standard states that a watch strap must be able, as shown in figure 7 , withstand a tensile force F of 200N per strand without breaking (permanent deformation is tolerated). These requirements can be increased, the breakage of the bracelet then being ensured by the shear breakage of the pins of the bars.
  • the reinforcement is then dimensioned according to the maximum tensile force F that the strand must be able to withstand without breaking, by estimating the stresses equivalent to the maximum force, which must be less than the elastic limit of the material.
  • F the maximum tensile force
  • a thickness of 0.1mm of the blade allows to obtain a limiting force before deformation 440N plastic, that is, well above the desired values and far below the elastic limit and the tensile stress of the material.
  • the thickness of the envelope can be chosen so as to optimize the resistance of the strand to bending.
  • the admissible bending radius is 0.7mm (by comparison, a central stainless steel blade (type 1.4310) only tolerates a minimum bending radius of 5mm).
  • the thickness of the coating of the bracelet is then chosen so as to ensure a radius of curvature greater than the limit allowed during a 180 ° bend of the strand.
  • the NiTi alloy loses its superelastic properties below 0 ° C. However, the alloy regains all of its properties as soon as the temperature rises above this limit. Thus, a bent blade with a radius of 2mm at -16 ° C retains this curvature as long as the temperature is below 0 ° C, but becomes perfectly straight again as soon as the temperature is higher (resumption of the shape in 8s at 20 ° C ). Likewise, the superelastic alloy blade retains all of its superelastic properties following coating (overmolding conditions: typically T> 180 ° C for several minutes). This temperature behavior can vary depending on the superelastic alloy chosen.
  • certain alloys allow use at a lower temperature, but with a reduction in the maximum temperature of use.
  • the blades shown in figures 2 , 3 and 7 to 11 have a complex shape, with a side section that varies along the strand. This makes it possible to fine-tune the rigidity and flexibility of the bracelet along the strand. Indeed, the flexibility of the strand varies significantly if the thickness of the strand and / or its width vary, and / or if an opening 30 is cut in the strand for reasons of aesthetics or comfort. For a complex bracelet strand as shown in figure 1 , these variations in flexibility can interfere with wearing the watch and can interfere with its tactile appreciation.
  • the approach is to compensate for the variation of the flexural modulus (Young's modulus times inertia around the neutral fiber of the metal core) of the envelope by playing on the inertia of the blade, in particular on its width.
  • the objective is to ensure a predefined flexibility of the strand throughout the latter, in particular constant, over the entire length of the strand or, failing that, over part of the strand, in particular near the closure element since it is in this zone that the radius of curvature of the wrist varies the most.
  • the thickness of the blade does not vary along the blade.
  • FIG. 9 is a section at plan AA level of the figure 8
  • the figure 10 is a section at plane BB of the figure 8
  • the figure 11 is a section at the level of the CC plan of the figure 8 .
  • the geometries of the section of the strand are different at the level of these three planes.
  • the geometry of the section of the casing 3 and / or the geometry of the section of the reinforcement 4 changes along the strand.
  • the section of the envelope changes to ensure aesthetic functions and the section of the reinforcement changes to ensure a mechanical function, in particular a mechanical function related to comfort.
  • the figure 9 also shows an opening 30.
  • This architecture makes it possible to have constant flexibility of the strand, in particular on the part of the strand close to the closure element, and to compensate for the variations in rigidity due to the presence of an opening or, more generally due to variations in the section of the envelope.
  • the strands with variable reinforcement section are optimized to ensure constant rigidity throughout the strand, with a nominal value equal to 1 on the ordinate. It can be seen that the variable section of the reinforcement makes it possible to compensate to a very large extent for the effects of variations in the section of the envelope: between points 10 and 28, the variation between the minimum and maximum stiffness values falls by more than 25% for a constant section reinforcement at 4% for a variable section reinforcement, which is no longer perceptible.
  • the abscissa points 14, 21 and 28 correspond approximately to the locations of profiles AA, BB and CC of the figures 8 to 11 .
  • the figures 15 to 17 show the possibilities offered by the controlled variation of the dimensions of the blade in a simpler case, and illustrate the process of sizing the blade.
  • the bracelet strand is composed of a reinforcement of elastic modulus E r and of an envelope of a material of modulus E e .
  • the flexural stiffness of a single material strand is proportional to the product of the elastic modulus and the inertia of the section.
  • the rigidity of the strand will be proportional, as a first approximation, to (E r ⁇ I r + Ee ⁇ le), where I r and I e represent the inertia of the cross section of reinforcement and casing, respectively.
  • the envelope has a variable width and / or thickness along the strand
  • the reinforcement has a variable width depending on the position along the strand which makes it possible to compensate for the variation in rigidity of the envelope alone.
  • the figure 15 shows a strand whose envelope has a width of 16mm at one end (origin of the abscissa x) which remains constant until the middle of the strand, then which increases linearly up to 20mm at the other end of the strand , with a constant thickness of 2.8mm.
  • the figure 16 represents an envelope of constant width along the strand, the thickness of which is 2.8mm on the first half of the strand and increases linearly to 3.2mm.
  • the figure 17 combines variations in the width and thickness of the strands of figures 15 and 16 .
  • the thickness of the reinforcement is chosen constant at 0.1mm, and the width at the origin is chosen at 14mm.
  • the profile of the blade along the strand does not evolve in the same direction as the profile of the casing, i.e. the width of the blade and the width of the casing evolve in opposite directions along the strand.
  • the rates of change of blade width and casing width along the profile have opposite signs.
  • the profile of the blade does not follow the profile of the envelope on at least part of the strand, for example on at least one half of the strand.
  • the rate of change of the value of the inertia of the cross section of the blade along the strand is of opposite sign to the rate of change of the value of the inertia of the cross section of the casing on at least part of the strand or of the reinforcement, for example on at least half of the strand.
  • the value of the inertia of the cross section of the blade and the value of the inertia of the cross section of the casing evolve in opposite directions over at least part of the strand or of the reinforcement, for example over at least half of the strand.
  • the rate of change of the thickness value of the blade along the strand may be of the opposite sign to the rate of change of the thickness value of the casing over at least part of the strand or of the strand. reinforcement, for example on at least half of the strand.
  • the thickness value of the blade and the thickness value of the casing can change in opposite directions over at least part of the strand or of the reinforcement, for example over at least half of the strand.
  • the rate of change of the value of the width of the blade along the strand is of the opposite sign to the rate of change of the value of the thickness of the casing over at least part of the strand or of the reinforcement, for example on at least half of the strand.
  • the width value of the blade and the thickness value of the casing evolve in opposite directions over at least part of the strand or of the reinforcement, for example over at least half of the strand.
  • figure 17 must be considered with caution, as the section of the reinforcement is probably too small at the widest end of the casing to ensure the desired mechanical performance.
  • variable width reinforcement makes it possible to compensate for the effect of the external geometry of the strand. It even makes it possible to appreciably attenuate the effect due to the presence of a reinforcement extending under the lower plane of the strand, such as for example a comfort cushion.
  • the area for winding the strand around the wrist can then exhibit almost constant flexibility and provide significantly increased wearing comfort.
  • the reinforcement therefore has a cross section whose geometry, in particular the width of the cross section, changes along the strand so that the flexural rigidity of the strand, along the strand, has a profile determined, in particular a constant profile on at least part of the strand, for example on at least one half of the strand, for example on half of the strand close to the closure element.
  • constant profile is meant that the bending stiffness of the strand does not vary by more than 20% of a nominal value, or even preferably does not vary by more than 10% of the nominal value, or even ideally does not vary. more than 5% of the nominal value.
  • the envelope can be made of leather sewn around the reinforcement.
  • the strand has been described previously applied to a bracelet comprising two strands and a clasp.
  • the strand comprises a reinforcement extending from the attachment of the box to the attachment of the clasp.
  • the strand may therefore include a reinforcement extending from the box attachment to the buckle attachment or a reinforcement extending from the box attachment to the tongue holes.
  • connecting element 4 mechanically connects or mechanically integrates a first fastening element 6 to a second fastening element 5
  • the connecting element prevents, except by breaking the connecting element, that the first element can be moved away from the second fixing element, under a tensile force of 50N, or even 100N, or even 200N. This remains true even before the wrap is put in place around the reinforcement.
EP21166514.6A 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Faserstrang eines uhrenarmbands Pending EP3861884A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH00620/11A CH704771B1 (fr) 2011-04-06 2011-04-06 Renfort de brin de bracelet de montre.
EP11405241 2011-04-07
PCT/CH2012/000080 WO2012135967A1 (fr) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Brin de bracelet de montre
EP12713859.2A EP2693910B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband

Related Parent Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP12713859.2A Division-Into EP2693910B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband
EP12713859.2A Division EP2693910B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3861884A1 true EP3861884A1 (de) 2021-08-11

Family

ID=46968510

Family Applications (3)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP14173541.5A Active EP2783592B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband
EP12713859.2A Active EP2693910B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband
EP21166514.6A Pending EP3861884A1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Faserstrang eines uhrenarmbands

Family Applications Before (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP14173541.5A Active EP2783592B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband
EP12713859.2A Active EP2693910B1 (de) 2011-04-06 2012-04-05 Uhrarmband

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US9516928B2 (de)
EP (3) EP2783592B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6081443B2 (de)
CN (1) CN103561606B (de)
WO (1) WO2012135967A1 (de)

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WO2016019110A2 (en) 2014-08-01 2016-02-04 Utex Industries, Inc. High pressure seal with composite anti-extrusion mechanism
KR102270209B1 (ko) * 2014-10-28 2021-06-29 삼성전자주식회사 신체 착용형 전자 장치
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USD802465S1 (en) * 2016-01-06 2017-11-14 Samsonite Ip Holdings S.Àr.L. Two-piece watch strap
US9609921B1 (en) 2016-03-04 2017-04-04 Feinstein Patents, Llc Self-fitting, self-adjusting, automatically adjusting and/or automatically fitting magnetic clasp
CN208463107U (zh) * 2018-04-09 2019-02-05 云谷(固安)科技有限公司 腕式设备及其腕带组件
CN109846153A (zh) * 2018-12-07 2019-06-07 深圳市中电华通科技有限公司 一种手表表带及其制备方法
EP3923089B1 (de) 2020-06-09 2023-06-07 Olga Tishurova Uhrenarmband für eine mechanische uhr
EP4052883A1 (de) 2021-03-03 2022-09-07 Rolex Sa Verfahren zur herstellung einer uhrenkomponente

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US2573055A (en) * 1947-12-04 1951-10-30 Bernard G Pedersen Reinforced wrist watch band
DE1806449A1 (de) * 1967-11-24 1969-06-12 Lumorex Luescher Moret & Co Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Uhrarmbandes und nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Uhrarmband
FR1591988A (de) 1967-11-24 1970-05-04
CH502787A (fr) * 1969-02-04 1971-02-15 Movado Montres Bracelet de montre comprenant une armature métallique souple
EP0116384A1 (de) * 1983-01-28 1984-08-22 Jean Lassale S.A. Lederarmband mit Faltverschluss
JPH01236004A (ja) * 1988-03-16 1989-09-20 Tokin Corp 形状記憶合金を用いた腕時計用バンド
EP0554764A1 (de) * 1992-02-05 1993-08-11 Andreas Geissbühler Schmuckband
AT400551B (de) 1993-06-30 1996-01-25 Hirsch Armbaender Sandwichbauteil mit einem tragkörper
AT407692B (de) 1994-01-14 2001-05-25 Hirsch Armbaender Uhrarmband
JPH07329110A (ja) 1994-06-09 1995-12-19 Casio Comput Co Ltd バンドおよびその製造方法

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EP2693910A1 (de) 2014-02-12
EP2783592A1 (de) 2014-10-01
CN103561606A (zh) 2014-02-05
JP2014509914A (ja) 2014-04-24
CN103561606B (zh) 2016-12-28
US9516928B2 (en) 2016-12-13
EP2783592B1 (de) 2017-08-16
US20140053602A1 (en) 2014-02-27
EP2693910B1 (de) 2021-05-05
JP6081443B2 (ja) 2017-02-15
WO2012135967A1 (fr) 2012-10-11

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