EP3759268B1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus leinen - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus leinen

Info

Publication number
EP3759268B1
EP3759268B1 EP19711434.1A EP19711434A EP3759268B1 EP 3759268 B1 EP3759268 B1 EP 3759268B1 EP 19711434 A EP19711434 A EP 19711434A EP 3759268 B1 EP3759268 B1 EP 3759268B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibers
yarn
yarns
threads
linen
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP19711434.1A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3759268A1 (de
EP3759268C0 (de
Inventor
Francesca SOSTER
Andrea BAGGIANI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Loro Piana SpA
Original Assignee
Loro Piana SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Loro Piana SpA filed Critical Loro Piana SpA
Publication of EP3759268A1 publication Critical patent/EP3759268A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3759268B1 publication Critical patent/EP3759268B1/de
Publication of EP3759268C0 publication Critical patent/EP3759268C0/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04—Linen
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • Plant fibers especially bast fiber and, more in particular, linen fibers, are known to be particularly stiff and irregular, not very extensible and easily creased. However, their high thermal conductivity makes them particularly suitable for manufacturing summer items of clothing and this causes them to be counted among the finest natural fibers.
  • GB 655,613 A discloses a potentially elastic substantially inextensible yarn which comprises an elastic core thread under tension and held against contraction by a wrapping which comprises a soluble thread, and associated with a substantially inextensible soluble restraining thread, each of the soluble threads being soluble in a solvent having no deleterious effect on the other soluble thread and the other components of the yarn or alternatively the soluble threads being soluble in a common solvent having no deleterious effects on the other components of the yarn.
  • the restraining thread may be within the wrapping thread and the soluble threads may be wool, cellulose acetate or alginate threads. Fabric incorporating the yarn can be treated to remove the soluble threads.
  • the bonded yarn is stapled, and the fibres crimped or curled by heat treatment if the vinyl constituent has latent shrinkability.
  • the staple fibres may be blended with other synthetic fibres before or after crimping.
  • the elastomeric fibres may be "spot-adhered" to the other synthetic fibres by a water-insoluble sizing agent spot-applied to the bonded yarn before stapling.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric capable of solving the drawbacks of the prior art.
  • the invention is aimed at providing a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric which is comfortable and has a high degree of elasticity, solving, at the same time, the tendency to form typical defects due to the lack of elastic return.
  • the resulting fabric can preferably be subjected to possible dyeing and finishing operations, depending on the look and the coat to be obtained, in particular after thermal fixing and drying for the stabilization of the elastic yarn.
  • stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed threads 10, 12, wherein there are linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an elastic thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
  • the further yarn described therein (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) can be replaced with a further yarn obtained with sole linen fibers, for example comprising two linen threads twisted together.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines dehnbaren Gewebes mit den folgenden Arbeitsschritten:
    - Bereitstellen eines dehnbaren gezwirnten Garns (1), das eine Vielzahl von miteinander verzwirnten Einzelfäden (10, 12, 14) aufweist und in dem vorhanden sind:
    ein Paar gemischter Einzelfäden (10, 12), und
    ein elastischer Einzelfaden (14), wobei der elastische Einzelfaden synthetische elastische Fasern aufweist;
    - Bereitstellen eines weiteren Garns;
    - Herstellen eines Gewebes durch Weben durch Verflechten eines Satzes des gedehnten gezwirnten Garns (1) mit einem Satz der weiteren Fäden;
    wobei das Verfahren dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass der gemischte Einzelfaden (10, 12) Leinenfasern aufweist, die mit synthetischen Fasern aus Polyvinylalkohol gemischt sind;
    dass das weitere Garn Leinenfasern aufweist; und
    dass das Verfahren den Arbeitsschritt des Auflösens der aus Polyvinylalkohol hergestellten synthetischen Fasern aus dem Gewebe aufweist.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei die synthetischen elastischen Fasern Polyurethanfasern aufweisen.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei das weitere Garn einen ersten Einzelfaden aus den Leinenfasern und einen zweiten Einzelfaden aus Tierfasern aufweist, wobei die Fäden miteinander verzwirnt sind.
  4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 3, wobei die tierischen Fasern des zweiten Einzelfadens aus Seidenfasern bestehen.
  5. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei das weitere Garn ein Paar Einzelfäden aus den Leinenfasern aufweist, die miteinander verzwirnt sind.
  6. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei das Weben so durchgeführt wird, dass der Satz von Schussfäden eine Vielzahl der gezwirnten Garne (1) aufweist, die sich mit einer Vielzahl der weiteren Garne abwechseln.
  7. Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, wobei das Weben so ausgeführt wird, dass der Satz von Kettfäden eine Vielzahl der weiteren Garne aufweist.
  8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, wobei das Weben so durchgeführt wird, dass der Satz von Kettfäden eine Vielzahl von gezwirnten Garnen (1) aufweist, die sich mit der Vielzahl von weiteren Garnen abwechseln.
  9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei das Weben so durchgeführt wird, dass der Satz von Schussfäden eine Vielzahl der gezwirnten Garne (1) aufweist und der Satz von Kettfäden eine Vielzahl der gezwirnten Garne (1) aufweist.
  10. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, bei dem die synthetischen Fasern aus Polyvinylalkohol durch ein Bad in einer alkalischen Lösung aus dem Gewebe herausgelöst werden.
EP19711434.1A 2018-03-01 2019-02-28 Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus leinen Active EP3759268B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102018000003155A IT201800003155A1 (it) 2018-03-01 2018-03-01 Metodo per la realizzazione di un tessuto elasticizzato comprendente fibre vegetali sostanzialmente inestensibili, e tessuto elasticizzato realizzato mediante tale metodo.
PCT/IB2019/051608 WO2019166978A1 (en) 2018-03-01 2019-02-28 Method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising plant fibres and stretch fabric manufactured by such method

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3759268A1 EP3759268A1 (de) 2021-01-06
EP3759268B1 true EP3759268B1 (de) 2025-07-23
EP3759268C0 EP3759268C0 (de) 2025-07-23

Family

ID=62167830

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19711434.1A Active EP3759268B1 (de) 2018-03-01 2019-02-28 Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus leinen

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US20210002798A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3759268B1 (de)
JP (1) JP7328238B2 (de)
KR (1) KR20210023802A (de)
CN (1) CN111788343A (de)
CA (1) CA3092547A1 (de)
IT (1) IT201800003155A1 (de)
WO (1) WO2019166978A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT202000027062A1 (it) * 2020-11-12 2022-05-12 E T C Eng Textile Company S R L Tessuto elasticizzato con tecnica innovativa, particolarmente per tessuti garzati
CN112725959B (zh) * 2020-12-03 2022-06-14 广东职业技术学院 一种低密度、蓬松的混纺纱线及其制备方法和应用
US20250331608A1 (en) * 2024-04-30 2025-10-30 Fujian Xiduo New Material Co., Ltd. Novel Weaving Shoe Uppers with Elastic Strings

Family Cites Families (21)

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GB655613A (en) * 1947-08-12 1951-07-25 Lastex Yarn And Lactron Thread Improvements in and related to elastic yarn
US2668565A (en) * 1949-01-31 1954-02-09 Clay Philip Ernest Frank Elastic fabric and method of manufacture thereof
GB1075115A (en) * 1963-03-28 1967-07-12 Kurashiki Rayon Kk Method of manufacturing knitted and woven elastic fabrics
GB1077533A (en) * 1963-07-17 1967-08-02 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Yarn and fibre containing synthetic elastomeric material and a process for manufacturing fabrics therefrom
IT1074019B (it) * 1976-09-03 1985-04-17 Sits Soc It Telecom Siemens Connettore per derivazione per mezzi tasmissivi rigidi di tipo coassiale e punto di derivazione atto a consentire l uso del connettore stesso
DE2703005C2 (de) * 1977-01-26 1982-05-19 Roland Dipl.-Kfm. 7022 Leinfelden-Echterdingen Belz Toilettensitzauflage und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung
US6162852A (en) * 1996-12-13 2000-12-19 Isolyser Company, Inc. Degradable polymers
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CN100365182C (zh) * 2006-09-01 2008-01-30 马伟华 棉维纺织物及其制作工艺
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ITTO20080412A1 (it) * 2008-05-29 2009-11-30 Loro Piana S P A Tessuto ottenuto dalla lavorazione di filati risultanti dalla torsione di fibre animali ritorte con un filamento di seta.
CN201553838U (zh) * 2009-10-29 2010-08-18 浙江省现代纺织工业研究院 一种热敏形状记忆聚氨酯包覆纱
CN201634818U (zh) * 2010-04-15 2010-11-17 高莉萍 一种弹力记忆纱
PT2562299T (pt) * 2010-04-20 2024-01-08 Kuraray Trading Co Ltd Método de produção de um fio encorpado para fabrico de tecido de tecelagem ou malha
IT1404727B1 (it) * 2010-10-30 2013-11-29 Benelli Filato elasticizzato, tessuto elasticizzato prodotto con detto filato elasticizzato e metodo per la produzione di detto filato
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP3759268A1 (de) 2021-01-06
IT201800003155A1 (it) 2019-09-01
CA3092547A1 (en) 2019-09-06
CN111788343A (zh) 2020-10-16
WO2019166978A1 (en) 2019-09-06
JP2021515115A (ja) 2021-06-17
KR20210023802A (ko) 2021-03-04
EP3759268C0 (de) 2025-07-23
US20210002798A1 (en) 2021-01-07
JP7328238B2 (ja) 2023-08-16

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