EP3759268B1

EP3759268B1 - Method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising linen

Info

Publication number: EP3759268B1
Application number: EP19711434.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Francesca SOSTER; Andrea BAGGIANI
Original assignee: Loro Piana SpA
Current assignee: Loro Piana SpA
Priority date: 2018-03-01
Filing date: 2019-02-28
Publication date: 2025-07-23
Anticipated expiration: 2039-02-28
Also published as: CA3092547A1; JP2021515115A; IT201800003155A1; WO2019166978A1; US20210002798A1; CN111788343A; EP3759268A1; KR20210023802A; JP7328238B2; EP3759268C0

Description

Technical field

The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric.

Technological background

Plant fibers, especially bast fiber and, more in particular, linen fibers, are known to be particularly stiff and irregular, not very extensible and easily creased. However, their high thermal conductivity makes them particularly suitable for manufacturing summer items of clothing and this causes them to be counted among the finest natural fibers.
The state of the art currently causes the linen fabric to be become elastic through the twisting of the linen yarn with an elastic yarn, typically an elastomeric (for example, polyurethanic) yarn, changing the twisting coefficient from low to high or very high, which is what happens with extra-twisted yarns. Alternatively, this mechanism is supported by a further thermoshrinking yarn made of a synthetic fiber. This technique, however, does not allow manufacturers to obtain a good elastic recovery of the fabric manufactured with the above-mentioned yarn thus causing the formation of visible defects.
GB 655,613 A discloses a potentially elastic substantially inextensible yarn which comprises an elastic core thread under tension and held against contraction by a wrapping which comprises a soluble thread, and associated with a substantially inextensible soluble restraining thread, each of the soluble threads being soluble in a solvent having no deleterious effect on the other soluble thread and the other components of the yarn or alternatively the soluble threads being soluble in a common solvent having no deleterious effects on the other components of the yarn. The restraining thread may be within the wrapping thread and the soluble threads may be wool, cellulose acetate or alginate threads. Fabric incorporating the yarn can be treated to remove the soluble threads.
GB 1,077,533 A discloses a yarn comprising synthetic elastomeric fibres or filaments-for example of polyurethane-and water soluble polyvinyl alcohol fibres or filaments for temporary control of the elasticity of the elastomer during fabric formation. As described a synthetic elastomeric filamentary yarn may be combined side-by-side with, be coiled around or be coiled by, or be twisted with a polyvinyl alcohol filamentary yarn which may be coloured. The surface of the vinyl yarn may be raised, sueded, or grooved, or may be treated with a non-skid agent. The composite yarn may itself be coiled with a natural or synthetic thread and/or be bonded with a water-soluble sizing agent. To form staple fibres, the bonded yarn is stapled, and the fibres crimped or curled by heat treatment if the vinyl constituent has latent shrinkability. The staple fibres may be blended with other synthetic fibres before or after crimping. The elastomeric fibres may be "spot-adhered" to the other synthetic fibres by a water-insoluble sizing agent spot-applied to the bonded yarn before stapling. Fabrics described are a lace fabric made by embroidering a base cloth of polyvinyl alcohol with a composite yarn and dissolving out all the polyvinyl alcohol; a woven fabric formed from one composite yarn, or with the warp formed from two different composite yarns and the weft from a natural or synthetic yarn; a flat-knitted fabric either composed of one composite yarn, or of two composite yarns and one natural or synthetic yarn; and a warp knitted fabric made of two composite yarns and one ordinary yarn.
EP 1 731 638 A1 discloses a method to produce a textile or fabric having a high yarn strength and a high stretching property. The textile or fabric does not cause troubles such as a thread breakage even in weaving or knitting with a high-speed weaving or knitting machine. In the method a composite twisted yarn is provided which at least comprises a spun yarn and a water-soluble yarn twisted with the spun yarn, wherein the twist direction of the composite twisted yarn is reverse to the twist direction of the spun yarn.

Summary of the invention

An object of the invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric capable of solving the drawbacks of the prior art.
In particular, the invention is aimed at providing a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric which is comfortable and has a high degree of elasticity, solving, at the same time, the tendency to form typical defects due to the lack of elastic return.
According to the invention, this and other objects are reached by means of a method having the technical features set forth in the appended independent claim.
Further features and advantages of the invention will be best understood upon perusal of the following detailed description, which is provided by way of example and is not limiting, with reference, in particular, to the accompanying drawings, which are briefly described below:

Brief description of the drawings

Figure 1 is a schematic view, in a longitudinal direction, of a stretch twisted yarn which can be used in a method implemented according to an explanatory embodiment of the invention.
Figure 2 is a schematic, cross section view of the stretch twisted yarn shown in figure 1.

Detailed description of the invention

With reference, in particular and by way of example, to figures 1 and 2, the invention suggests a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising the following operating steps:

providing a stretch twisted yarn (1) comprising a plurality of single threads twisted together and wherein there are:
- a pair of mixed single threads 10, 12, wherein the mixed single threads comprise linen fibers mixed with synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol, and
- an elastic single thread 14, wherein the elastic single thread comprises synthetic elastic fibers;
providing a further yarn comprising linen fibers;
manufacturing a fabric through weaving by interlacing a set of said stretch twisted yarns 1 with a set of said further yarns; and
dissolving said synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol from the fabric.

Thanks to these features, the water-soluble synthetic fiber creates a sort of filling inside a "cage" formed by bundles of natural fibers, thus allowing the yarn to resist weaving tensions. Once the synthetic fiber has dissolved, the yarn looses a percentage of weight amounting to the content of water-soluble fiber and the cavities formed due to the melting of the water-soluble fibers are then responsible for an elasticity that allows the natural fibers to be wound around the elastic yarn, without causing a narrowing.
Therefore, the aforesaid method reduces the tendency to the formation of defects in the fabric, maintaining the technical resistance and improving the elastic recovery capacity of the fabric.
For example, as far as the mixed yarn is concerned, the weight percentage of the water-soluble fibers advantageously, though not necessarily ranges from 20% to 70% of water-soluble fibers.
The method described above produces a natural fiber fabric with a reduced percentage of synthetic fiber (for example, a weight percentage substantially ranging from 1% to 5%), though capable of ensuring ideal elasticity and comfort. This happens without using further synthetic fibers, thus preserving the look and the features that are typical of natural fibers when touching them, as wells as the breathability and the fresh feeling when they are worn. Furthermore, the method generates a performing fabric, which fulfills high quality standards. Finally, the aforesaid method enables a dry spinning with traditional wool or cotton systems, which, compared to the traditional linen spinning system, permits a proper distribution of the fibers.
The further yarn preferably comprises a single thread made of linen fibers and a single thread made of animal fibers, said threads being twisted together. In particular, the animal fibers comprise silk fibers. According to a variant, the further yarn can consist of pure linen. According to this variant, the further yarn can comprise a pair of single threads made of linen fibers, wherein said single threads are twisted together.
In the aforesaid method, the weaving is preferably carried out so that the set of weft threads comprises a plurality of stretch twisted yarns 1 alternated with a plurality of the further yarns.
In the aforesaid method, the weaving is preferably carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of the further yarns.
In particular, the weaving is carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of stretch twisted yarns 1 alternated with the plurality of the further yarns.
Preferably , the synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol are dissolved from the fabric by means of a bath in an alkaline solution.
Therefore, the resulting fabric can preferably be subjected to possible dyeing and finishing operations, depending on the look and the coat to be obtained, in particular after thermal fixing and drying for the stabilization of the elastic yarn.
Two explanatory embodiments of the invention will be described hereinafter.
In a first explanatory embodiment of the invention, the further yarn comprises a linen thread and a silk thread, which are twisted together.
Furthermore, stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed threads 10, 12, wherein there are linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an elastic thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
In this first embodiment, the set of warp threads consists of a plurality of further yarns (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together). Furthermore, the set of weft threads consists of a plurality of further yarns (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with stretch twisted yarns 1 (comprising the linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed thread and the elastic thread of polyurethanic fibers).
In a second explanatory embodiment of the invention, the further yarn comprises a linen thread and a silk thread, which are twisted together. Furthermore, stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed threads 10, 12, wherein there are linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an elastic thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
In this second embodiment, the set of warp threads consists of a plurality of further yarns (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with stretch twisted yarns 1 (comprising the pair of linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed threads 10, 12 and elastic thread 14 of polyurethanic fibers). Similarly, the set of weft threads consists of a plurality of further yarns (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with stretch twisted yarns 1 (comprising the pair of linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed threads 10, 12 and elastic thread 14 of polyurethanic fibers).
Alternatively, both in the first explanatory embodiment and in the second explanatory embodiment, the further yarn described therein (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) can be replaced with a further yarn obtained with sole linen fibers, for example comprising two linen threads twisted together.
Naturally, the principle of the invention being set forth, embodiments and implementation details can be widely changed relative to what is described above and shown in the drawings as a mere way of non-limiting example, without in this way going beyond the scope of protection provided by the accompanying claims.

Claims

Method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising the following operating steps:
- providing a stretch twisted yarn (1) comprising a plurality of single threads (10, 12, 14) twisted together and wherein there are:
a pair of mixed single threads (10, 12), and

an elastic single thread (14), said elastic single thread comprising synthetic elastic fibers;

- providing a further yarn;

- manufacturing a fabric through weaving by interlacing a set of said stretch twisted yarns (1) with a set of said further yarns;
said method being characterized in that said mixed single thread (10, 12) comprises linen fibers mixed with synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol;

in that said further yarn comprises linen fibers; and

in that said method comprises the operating step of dissolving said synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol from said fabric.
Method according to claim 1, wherein said synthetic elastic fibers comprise polyurethanic fibers.
Method according to claim 1, wherein said further yarn comprises a first single thread made of said linen fibers and a second single thread made of animal fibers, said threads being twisted together.
Method according to claim 3, wherein said animal fibers of said second single thread comprise silk fibers.
Method according to claim 1, wherein said further yarn comprises a pair of single threads made of said linen fibers, which are twisted together.
Method according to claim 1, wherein said weaving is carried out so that the set of weft threads comprises a plurality of said stretch twisted yarns (1) alternated with a plurality of said further yarns.
Method according to claim 6, wherein said weaving is carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of said further yarns.
Method according to claim 7, wherein said weaving is carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of stretch twisted yarns (1) alternated with said plurality of further yarns.
Method according to claim 1, wherein said weaving is carried out so that the set of weft threads comprises a plurality of said stretch twisted yarns (1) and the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of said stretch twisted yarns (1).
Method according to claim 1, wherein said synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol are dissolved from said fabric by means of a bath in an alkaline solution.