EP3759268A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus pflanzenfasern und nach diesem verfahren hergestelltes dehngewebe - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus pflanzenfasern und nach diesem verfahren hergestelltes dehngewebe

Info

Publication number
EP3759268A1
EP3759268A1 EP19711434.1A EP19711434A EP3759268A1 EP 3759268 A1 EP3759268 A1 EP 3759268A1 EP 19711434 A EP19711434 A EP 19711434A EP 3759268 A1 EP3759268 A1 EP 3759268A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibers
yarn
threads
substantially inextensible
stretch
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP19711434.1A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3759268C0 (de
EP3759268B1 (de
Inventor
Francesca SOSTER
Andrea BAGGIANI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Loro Piana SpA
Original Assignee
Loro Piana SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Loro Piana SpA filed Critical Loro Piana SpA
Publication of EP3759268A1 publication Critical patent/EP3759268A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3759268C0 publication Critical patent/EP3759268C0/de
Publication of EP3759268B1 publication Critical patent/EP3759268B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04—Linen
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric and to a fabric manufactured by means of such method.
  • Plant fibers especially bast fiber and, more in particular, linen fibers, are known to be particularly stiff and irregular, not very extensible and easily creased. However, their high thermal conductivity makes them particularly suitable for manufacturing summer items of clothing and this causes them to be counted among the finest natural fibers.
  • the state of the art currently causes the linen fabric to be become elastic through the twisting of the linen yarn with an elastic yarn, typically an elastomeric (for example, polyurethanic) yarn, changing the twisting coefficient from low to high or very high, which is what happen with extra-twisted yarns.
  • an elastic yarn typically an elastomeric (for example, polyurethanic) yarn
  • this mechanism is supported by a further thermoshrinking yarn made of a synthetic fiber.
  • This technique does not allow manufacturers to obtain a good elastic recovery of the fabric manufactured with the above-mentioned yarn thus causing the formation of visible defects.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric and a stretch fabric manufactured by means of such method, wherein they are capable of solving the drawbacks of the prior art.
  • the invention is aimed at providing a method for manufacturing a stretch fabric which is comfortable and has a high degree of elasticity, solving, at the same time, the tendency to form typical defects due to the lack of elastic return.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic view, in a longitudinal direction, of a stretch twisted yarn which can be used in a method implemented according to an explanatory embodiment of the invention.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic, cross section view of the stretch twisted yarn shown in figure 1.
  • the invention suggests a method for manufacturing a stretch yarn comprising the following operating steps:
  • mixed threads 10, 12 wherein the mixed threads comprise substantially inextensible plant fibers mixed with water-soluble fibers, and
  • a further yarn for example a substantially inextensible yarn comprising substantially inextensible plant fibers
  • Said further yarn does not necessarily need to be a substantially inextensible yarn.
  • said further yarn can be stretch twisted yarn 1 itself. Therefore, in this hypothesis, the method creates a fabric weave, in which both the weft threads and the warp threads are made of the aforesaid stretch twisted yarn 1.
  • the water-soluble fiber creates a sort of filling inside a "cage" formed by bundles natural fibers, thus allowing the yarn to resist weaving tensions.
  • the yarn looses a percentage of weight amounting to the content of water-soluble fiber and the cavities formed due to the melting of the water-soluble fibers are then responsible for an elasticity that allows the natural fibers to be wound around the elastic yarn, without causing a narrowing. Therefore, the aforesaid method reduces the tendency to the formation of defects in the fabric, maintaining the technical resistance and improving the elastic recovery capacity of the fabric.
  • the weight percentage of the water-soluble fibers advantageously, though not necessarily ranges from 20% to 70% of water-soluble fibers.
  • the method described above produces a natural fiber fabric with a reduced percentage of synthetic fiber (for example, a weight percentage substantially ranging from 1% to 5%), though capable of ensuring ideal elasticity and comfort. This happens without using further synthetic fibers, thus preserving the look and the features that are typical of natural fibers when touching them, as wells as the breathability and the fresh feeling when they are worn. Furthermore, the method generates a performing fabric, which fulfills high quality standards. Finally, the aforesaid method enables a dry spinning with traditional wool or cotton systems, which, compared to the traditional linen spinning system, permits a proper distribution of the fibers .
  • the plant fibers of the mixed yarn preferably are bast fibers. More preferably, the bast fibers comprise linen fibers .
  • the water-soluble fibers comprise alginic fibers.
  • the water-soluble fibers comprise synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol or PVA.
  • the substantially inextensible yarn preferably comprises plant fibers of the same type used for the mixed yarn .
  • the substantially inextensible yarn preferably comprises a single thread made of substantially inextensible plant fibers and a single thread made of animal fibers, said threads being twisted together.
  • the substantially inextensible plant fibers are bast fibers and, in particular, linen fibers.
  • the animal fibers comprise silk fibers.
  • the substantially inextensible yarn can consist of substantially inextensible plant fibers, for example of pure bast fibers, in particular pure linen.
  • the substantially inextensible yarn can comprise a pair of single threads made of pure bast fibers, in particular linen fibers, wherein said single threads are twisted together.
  • the weaving is preferably carried out so that the set of weft threads comprises a plurality of threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 alternated with a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn.
  • the weaving is preferably carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn.
  • the weaving is carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 alternated with the plurality of threads of substantially inextensible yarn.
  • the water-soluble fibers are dissolved from the fabric by means of a bath in an alkaline solution.
  • the resulting fabric can preferably be subjected to possible dyeing and finishing operations, depending on the look and the coat to be obtained, in particular after thermal fixing and drying for the stabilization of the elastic yarn.
  • the substantially inextensible yarn comprises a linen thread and a silk thread, which are twisted together.
  • stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed threads 10, 12, wherein there linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an elastic thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
  • the set of warp threads consists of a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) .
  • the set of weft threads consists of a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising the linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed thread and the elastic thread of polyurethanic fibers) .
  • the substantially inextensible yarn comprises a linen thread and a silk thread, which are twisted together.
  • stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed thread 10, 12, wherein there linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an elastic thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
  • the set of warp threads consists of a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising the pair of linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed yarn threads 10, 12 and elastic thread 14 of polyurethanic fibers) .
  • the set of weft threads consists of a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising the pair of linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed yarn threads 10, 12 and elastic thread 14 of polyurethanic fibers) .
  • the substantially inextensible yarn described therein (comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) can be replaced with a substantially inextensible yarn obtained with sole linen fibers, for example comprising two linen threads twisted together.
  • the weaves that can be used to obtain the fabric according to the invention are different and it is also possible to manufacture a Jacquard apparel fabric and knitted fabrics according to the known techniques of the prior art.
  • an orthogonal fabric or a knitted fabric can be manufactured.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
EP19711434.1A 2018-03-01 2019-02-28 Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus leinen Active EP3759268B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102018000003155A IT201800003155A1 (it) 2018-03-01 2018-03-01 Metodo per la realizzazione di un tessuto elasticizzato comprendente fibre vegetali sostanzialmente inestensibili, e tessuto elasticizzato realizzato mediante tale metodo.
PCT/IB2019/051608 WO2019166978A1 (en) 2018-03-01 2019-02-28 Method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising plant fibres and stretch fabric manufactured by such method

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3759268A1 true EP3759268A1 (de) 2021-01-06
EP3759268C0 EP3759268C0 (de) 2025-07-23
EP3759268B1 EP3759268B1 (de) 2025-07-23

Family

ID=62167830

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19711434.1A Active EP3759268B1 (de) 2018-03-01 2019-02-28 Verfahren zur herstellung eines dehngewebes aus leinen

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US20210002798A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3759268B1 (de)
JP (1) JP7328238B2 (de)
KR (1) KR20210023802A (de)
CN (1) CN111788343A (de)
CA (1) CA3092547A1 (de)
IT (1) IT201800003155A1 (de)
WO (1) WO2019166978A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT202000027062A1 (it) * 2020-11-12 2022-05-12 E T C Eng Textile Company S R L Tessuto elasticizzato con tecnica innovativa, particolarmente per tessuti garzati
CN112725959B (zh) * 2020-12-03 2022-06-14 广东职业技术学院 一种低密度、蓬松的混纺纱线及其制备方法和应用
US20250331608A1 (en) * 2024-04-30 2025-10-30 Fujian Xiduo New Material Co., Ltd. Novel Weaving Shoe Uppers with Elastic Strings

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
IT201800003155A1 (it) 2019-09-01
KR20210023802A (ko) 2021-03-04
JP2021515115A (ja) 2021-06-17
CA3092547A1 (en) 2019-09-06
CN111788343A (zh) 2020-10-16
EP3759268C0 (de) 2025-07-23
WO2019166978A1 (en) 2019-09-06
EP3759268B1 (de) 2025-07-23
US20210002798A1 (en) 2021-01-07
JP7328238B2 (ja) 2023-08-16

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