EP3690098A1 - Tissu denim et procédé de fabrication dudit tissu - Google Patents

Tissu denim et procédé de fabrication dudit tissu Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3690098A1
EP3690098A1 EP19154611.8A EP19154611A EP3690098A1 EP 3690098 A1 EP3690098 A1 EP 3690098A1 EP 19154611 A EP19154611 A EP 19154611A EP 3690098 A1 EP3690098 A1 EP 3690098A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
fabric
main
yarn
warp
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP19154611.8A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3690098B1 (fr
Inventor
Andrea Uboldi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Tessitura Clara Srl
Original Assignee
Tessitura Clara Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Tessitura Clara Srl filed Critical Tessitura Clara Srl
Priority to ES19154611T priority Critical patent/ES2982512T3/es
Priority to EP19154611.8A priority patent/EP3690098B1/fr
Publication of EP3690098A1 publication Critical patent/EP3690098A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3690098B1 publication Critical patent/EP3690098B1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0093—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
    • D06B11/0096—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a denim fabric and a method for making said fabric of the type specified in the preamble of the first claim.
  • the warp threads pass under two or more weft threads at a time.
  • the finishing step comprises the use of devices, for example laser-type devices, suitable for lightening some yarns of the fabric so as to display the desired shapes.
  • a major object of the invention is to obtain a fabric and a method for making said fabric, which allows the making of shapes and figures on a garment without using expensive technologies or technologies suitable to wear out the fabric.
  • Another major object of the invention is to provide a fabric and a method for making the fabric, which is suitable to cut down the steps required for the manufacture of decorated fabrics with effects and patterns imprinted on the surface of the fabric.
  • the secondary yarn is preferably also dyed in other colours with other techniques such as for example with the so-called sulfur colours, or with mordant dyes, which allow non-solid colours to be obtained, which however can be washed out in the subsequent fabric or garment washing processes.
  • the main and the secondary yarns have values of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test (ISO 105 A02), which are high for the former and low for the latter, respectively, meaning that the former is necessarily higher than the latter, which is consequently low compared to the former.
  • the weft consists, for example, of stretch or non-stretch yarn, preferably made of cotton or stretch polyamide or stretch polyester or other stretch material, or of yarns that are similar or identical to the main and secondary yarns.
  • the method according to the invention preferably comprises a step of producing a warp beam consisting of at least one main yarn and at least one secondary yarn, and a step of weaving with other weft yarns as mentioned above.
  • inverted configurations could be provided in which the weft and the warp are exchanged with one another, or even with others depending on the type of fabric to be produced and the wash-out effect to be sought.
  • the beam thus formed is connected to a reed, which has suitably a linear thread density preferably greater than 20 threads/cm and more preferably comprised between 40 threads/cm and approximately 80 threads/cm.
  • the width of the reed of the fabric on the loom will preferably be from 160 cm up to 260 cm in total for single looms or twice as much for double-width looms, which therefore weave two fabrics at the same time.
  • the number of threads in the warp beam will preferably be higher than 3000, more preferably between 4,000 and 20,000.
  • the warp beam described is knotted to standard looms, for example a harness or Jacquard type, in a manner known per se.
  • the secondary yarn and the main yarns are suitably tensioned by tensioning one or more of the yarn feed rollers.
  • These feed rollers are subjected to tensions preferably varying within less than 5% of each other, and preferably said rollers are subjected to the same unwinding tension.
  • the main and secondary yarns, particularly made of cotton may be arranged on the same beam and the same rollers, so that they all have the same unwinding tension.
  • Said unwinding tension is preferably comprised between 100 and 450 kgp, i.e. approximately from 10 g to 50 g (grams weight) per thread if uniformly calculated on all threads.
  • the fabrics according to the present invention are made from fabrics on a tubular base, preferably with two layers but also with more than two layers, or from double face chain fabrics, preferably with two layers but also with more than two layers.
  • said upper layer is preferably bonded to said lower layer through at least one repeated stitching so that the two fabric layers do not open and create to all intents and purposes the sensation of being a single layer.
  • the repetition of the stitches will be preferably selected by bearing in mind the existing trade off to make a smaller number thereof in order not to bind the fabric too much and make it rigid and/or not comfortable and/or poorly elastic in the case of stretch fabrics, and, instead, of making a greater number thereof so as not to create layer opening effects and unpleasant bulges in the appearance and/or feel of the fabric and above all of the final washed-out garment.
  • the binding stitches for the tubular layers will tend to follow and possibly conveniently reveal, i.e. enhance, the preferably diagonal effect, but also other effects of the right side, without creating faults, lack of uniformity or unpleasant stitches that are visible on the right side.
  • the two faces of the warp on the right side of the fabric are made respectively by means of main yarns to create the background areas, and secondary yarns to make the pattern areas as also stated above.
  • the two faces are then mutually reversed by placing, in turn, one on the right side and the other on the reverse side, respectively, so as to create the desired different patterns or aesthetic effects.
  • the replacement of the main, preferably indigo yarns in the background area can be done by creating true areas of replacement of all main yarns with all secondary, preferably indigo yarns occurring in that area, thereby creating well defined patterns and graphic effects throughout the area involved, as described above.
  • the replacement of the main yarns with the secondary yarns can be carried out more preferably in another way, in which only a few main yarns are replaced in the area involved by respective secondary yarns.
  • This can be done by following a warp sequence for said replacement, which may be simple (i.e. with a short repetition rate) or more complex (i.e. with a longer repetition rate).
  • the rate of the warp sequence for the replacement of the main threads with the secondary threads can be as long as the same warp, i.e. random or apparently random, without any type of repetition throughout the width of the warp. In this way, the pattern effect will be more diluted or will create a lining with simple or more complex repetitions.
  • This additional method of replacing the main yarns with secondary, preferably streaked, cotton or Tencel yarns will create pattern streak effects or streak effects with very complex aesthetic effects that are invisible on the fabric and the garment made with the fabric according to the present invention before the wash-out, but will be revealed on the garment in those areas that will be sufficiently washed out during the garment washing process.
  • a first, standard type according to the prior art wherein the preferably indigo warp yarns and the preferably non-indigo weft yarns are raised more or less one on top of the other in order to obtain standard-type patterns and aesthetic effects according to the prior art.
  • a second type according to the present invention wherein in the preferably indigo warp yarns, however prepared and arranged according to the present invention and divided into main- and secondary-type yarns interwoven with the preferably non-indigo weft yarns, the main yarns and the secondary yarns are swapped so that the patterns and the aesthetic effects on the fabric are apparently the same as in the first, standard fabric types.
  • the main yarns will take on a darker colour, on the average, whereas the secondary ones will take on a lighter colour, on the average, in the garment areas where the wash-out effect has been sufficiently intense to create a colour effect perceivable by the human eye in the two types of yarns.
  • the two types of yarns will not have obtained a colour difference visible to the human eye and therefore no new type of pattern according to the present invention will be revealed.
  • a particular case of production of a fabric according to the invention is where the fabric is close-woven, i.e. without patterns of the first type described above, and only patterns and aesthetic effects of the second type are made thereon. Therefore, said fabric will have, before its wash-out, the appearance of a standard denim-like, close-woven fabric, and only after its wash-out will reveal the underlying pattern or aesthetic effects made according to the present invention only in the areas subject to a sufficiently intense wash-out.
  • Fig. 1 shows a weave which forms the bonded tubular background, with a main yarn effect with a thin diagonal weave and a well-bonded reverse side.
  • the four boxes identify the four possible combinations of horizontally odd (1) and even (2) weft threads and vertically odd (1) and even (2) chain threads, and the weaves which are applied to these combinations, respectively.
  • a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of solid dyed cotton, "B” is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton, and a weft sequence of the (a b) type is used, where "a” is a raw stretch nylon yarn and "b” is a raw stretch cotton yarn.
  • Fig. 2 instead, shows a weave which forms the pattern or aesthetic effect of the secondary yarn, again with a thin diagonal weave and a well-bonded reverse side identical to those of the background.
  • Fig.11 shows a fabric made with said background and pattern weaves.
  • Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 respectively, show other two weaves of the bonded tubular type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a stronger diagonal effect than the one previously described.
  • Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a thin diagonal.
  • the two boxes identify the two possible combinations of the weft thread alone (1) horizontally and the two odd (1) and even (2) chain threads vertically, and the weaves which are applied to these combinations, respectively.
  • a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of indigo dyed cotton with high colour fixation, "B” is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a” is a yarn of raw stretch T400 polyester.
  • Fig. 7 and Fig. 8 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a larger, more visible diagonal.
  • Fig. 9 and Fig. 10 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a larger, more visible diagonal.
  • a warp sequence of the (A A B, i.e. 2A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of indigo dyed cotton with high colour fixation, "B” is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a” is a yarn of cotton-coated raw stretch T400 polyester or a cotton core spun with stretch T400 as the inner core.
  • Fig. 12 and Fig. 13 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a thin diagonal.
  • a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of sulfur black dyed streaked cotton with high colour fixation, "B” is a secondary yarn of sulfur black dyed streaked cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a” is a raw cotton non-stretch yarn.
  • a complex warp sequence is used for the exchange of the main and secondary yarns, where inside the sequence the main yarn designated as "A” is kept on the right side, whereas the main yarn designated as "B", instead, is exchanged with the secondary yarn.
  • the main yarn is arranged on the reverse side of the fabric only in the area of these "B" yarns, whereas the secondary yarn, which was on the reverse side, is arranged on the right side in its place, swapping places.
  • a surface processing step is preferably carried out, in which treatments known per se are applied, for example wash-out, chemical and/or mechanical treatments, or other processes which apply processing effects to the fabric, which give the fabric a surface wear effect.
  • the wash-out step allows the surfacing and thus the revealing of the effects defined by the secondary yarn surfacing on the right side that is washed out, whereas the main yarn maintains the original colouring and surface characteristics to a greater extent, as previously mentioned.
  • wash-out can contribute to varying the effects on the garment even when the fabric comprises one garment only.
  • the invention also includes an innovative fabric, preferably of the denim type, made with the method or the yarns described herein.
  • the invention also comprises a garment made with the fabric described herein.
  • the method according to the invention achieves important advantages.
  • the above-described method allows the making of denim fabrics including effects and patterns that emerge following a single wash-out step.
  • this aspect makes it possible to provide a fabric, which is less treated than common denim fabrics and also allows shapes and patterns to be created without using coloured weft yarns.
  • the fabric manufacturing process comprises or may comprise a single wash-out step.
  • the fabric manufacturing costs are therefore reduced, as is the garment manufacturing complexity, as well as the cost of any laser processing steps designed to define patterns on denim fabrics, which are commonly used to create particular effects and patterns.
  • Said fabric can also be obtained by means of machines of type comprising a single warp beam. These machines are more common and more cost effective than machines including a plurality of warp beams.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP19154611.8A 2019-01-30 2019-01-30 Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu Active EP3690098B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ES19154611T ES2982512T3 (es) 2019-01-30 2019-01-30 Método de fabricación de un tejido
EP19154611.8A EP3690098B1 (fr) 2019-01-30 2019-01-30 Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP19154611.8A EP3690098B1 (fr) 2019-01-30 2019-01-30 Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3690098A1 true EP3690098A1 (fr) 2020-08-05
EP3690098B1 EP3690098B1 (fr) 2024-04-17

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ID=65443648

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19154611.8A Active EP3690098B1 (fr) 2019-01-30 2019-01-30 Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP3690098B1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2982512T3 (fr)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3377412A (en) * 1964-06-01 1968-04-09 American Enka Corp Polyvinyl pyrrolidone in viscose and method of producing dye-receptive filaments
JPH02127538A (ja) * 1988-11-07 1990-05-16 Mitsubishi Motors Corp ウール／化学繊維織物構造
CA1338950C (fr) * 1988-04-14 1997-03-04 Veratec, Inc. Installation et procede de creation de motifs sur des tissus par decoloration
WO2010079989A2 (fr) * 2009-01-09 2010-07-15 Cho Eun Hyo Tissu tissé de façon à comporter un motif en bande, ayant une clarté et des nuances différentes, et vêtement constitué de ce tissu
KR20110042586A (ko) * 2009-10-19 2011-04-27 주식회사 우양크리에이션 다종염색사로 직조된 직물

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3377412A (en) * 1964-06-01 1968-04-09 American Enka Corp Polyvinyl pyrrolidone in viscose and method of producing dye-receptive filaments
CA1338950C (fr) * 1988-04-14 1997-03-04 Veratec, Inc. Installation et procede de creation de motifs sur des tissus par decoloration
JPH02127538A (ja) * 1988-11-07 1990-05-16 Mitsubishi Motors Corp ウール／化学繊維織物構造
WO2010079989A2 (fr) * 2009-01-09 2010-07-15 Cho Eun Hyo Tissu tissé de façon à comporter un motif en bande, ayant une clarté et des nuances différentes, et vêtement constitué de ce tissu
KR20110042586A (ko) * 2009-10-19 2011-04-27 주식회사 우양크리에이션 다종염색사로 직조된 직물

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Publication number Publication date
EP3690098B1 (fr) 2024-04-17
ES2982512T3 (es) 2024-10-16

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