EP3690098A1 - Denim fabric and method for making said fabric - Google Patents

Denim fabric and method for making said fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3690098A1
EP3690098A1 EP19154611.8A EP19154611A EP3690098A1 EP 3690098 A1 EP3690098 A1 EP 3690098A1 EP 19154611 A EP19154611 A EP 19154611A EP 3690098 A1 EP3690098 A1 EP 3690098A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
fabric
main
yarn
warp
Prior art date
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Granted
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EP19154611.8A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP3690098B1 (en
Inventor
Andrea Uboldi
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Tessitura Clara Srl
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Tessitura Clara Srl
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Priority to EP19154611.8A priority Critical patent/EP3690098B1/en
Publication of EP3690098A1 publication Critical patent/EP3690098A1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0093Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
    • D06B11/0096Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a denim fabric and a method for making said fabric of the type specified in the preamble of the first claim.
  • the warp threads pass under two or more weft threads at a time.
  • the finishing step comprises the use of devices, for example laser-type devices, suitable for lightening some yarns of the fabric so as to display the desired shapes.
  • a major object of the invention is to obtain a fabric and a method for making said fabric, which allows the making of shapes and figures on a garment without using expensive technologies or technologies suitable to wear out the fabric.
  • Another major object of the invention is to provide a fabric and a method for making the fabric, which is suitable to cut down the steps required for the manufacture of decorated fabrics with effects and patterns imprinted on the surface of the fabric.
  • the secondary yarn is preferably also dyed in other colours with other techniques such as for example with the so-called sulfur colours, or with mordant dyes, which allow non-solid colours to be obtained, which however can be washed out in the subsequent fabric or garment washing processes.
  • the main and the secondary yarns have values of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test (ISO 105 A02), which are high for the former and low for the latter, respectively, meaning that the former is necessarily higher than the latter, which is consequently low compared to the former.
  • the weft consists, for example, of stretch or non-stretch yarn, preferably made of cotton or stretch polyamide or stretch polyester or other stretch material, or of yarns that are similar or identical to the main and secondary yarns.
  • the method according to the invention preferably comprises a step of producing a warp beam consisting of at least one main yarn and at least one secondary yarn, and a step of weaving with other weft yarns as mentioned above.
  • inverted configurations could be provided in which the weft and the warp are exchanged with one another, or even with others depending on the type of fabric to be produced and the wash-out effect to be sought.
  • the beam thus formed is connected to a reed, which has suitably a linear thread density preferably greater than 20 threads/cm and more preferably comprised between 40 threads/cm and approximately 80 threads/cm.
  • the width of the reed of the fabric on the loom will preferably be from 160 cm up to 260 cm in total for single looms or twice as much for double-width looms, which therefore weave two fabrics at the same time.
  • the number of threads in the warp beam will preferably be higher than 3000, more preferably between 4,000 and 20,000.
  • the warp beam described is knotted to standard looms, for example a harness or Jacquard type, in a manner known per se.
  • the secondary yarn and the main yarns are suitably tensioned by tensioning one or more of the yarn feed rollers.
  • These feed rollers are subjected to tensions preferably varying within less than 5% of each other, and preferably said rollers are subjected to the same unwinding tension.
  • the main and secondary yarns, particularly made of cotton may be arranged on the same beam and the same rollers, so that they all have the same unwinding tension.
  • Said unwinding tension is preferably comprised between 100 and 450 kgp, i.e. approximately from 10 g to 50 g (grams weight) per thread if uniformly calculated on all threads.
  • the fabrics according to the present invention are made from fabrics on a tubular base, preferably with two layers but also with more than two layers, or from double face chain fabrics, preferably with two layers but also with more than two layers.
  • said upper layer is preferably bonded to said lower layer through at least one repeated stitching so that the two fabric layers do not open and create to all intents and purposes the sensation of being a single layer.
  • the repetition of the stitches will be preferably selected by bearing in mind the existing trade off to make a smaller number thereof in order not to bind the fabric too much and make it rigid and/or not comfortable and/or poorly elastic in the case of stretch fabrics, and, instead, of making a greater number thereof so as not to create layer opening effects and unpleasant bulges in the appearance and/or feel of the fabric and above all of the final washed-out garment.
  • the binding stitches for the tubular layers will tend to follow and possibly conveniently reveal, i.e. enhance, the preferably diagonal effect, but also other effects of the right side, without creating faults, lack of uniformity or unpleasant stitches that are visible on the right side.
  • the two faces of the warp on the right side of the fabric are made respectively by means of main yarns to create the background areas, and secondary yarns to make the pattern areas as also stated above.
  • the two faces are then mutually reversed by placing, in turn, one on the right side and the other on the reverse side, respectively, so as to create the desired different patterns or aesthetic effects.
  • the replacement of the main, preferably indigo yarns in the background area can be done by creating true areas of replacement of all main yarns with all secondary, preferably indigo yarns occurring in that area, thereby creating well defined patterns and graphic effects throughout the area involved, as described above.
  • the replacement of the main yarns with the secondary yarns can be carried out more preferably in another way, in which only a few main yarns are replaced in the area involved by respective secondary yarns.
  • This can be done by following a warp sequence for said replacement, which may be simple (i.e. with a short repetition rate) or more complex (i.e. with a longer repetition rate).
  • the rate of the warp sequence for the replacement of the main threads with the secondary threads can be as long as the same warp, i.e. random or apparently random, without any type of repetition throughout the width of the warp. In this way, the pattern effect will be more diluted or will create a lining with simple or more complex repetitions.
  • This additional method of replacing the main yarns with secondary, preferably streaked, cotton or Tencel yarns will create pattern streak effects or streak effects with very complex aesthetic effects that are invisible on the fabric and the garment made with the fabric according to the present invention before the wash-out, but will be revealed on the garment in those areas that will be sufficiently washed out during the garment washing process.
  • a first, standard type according to the prior art wherein the preferably indigo warp yarns and the preferably non-indigo weft yarns are raised more or less one on top of the other in order to obtain standard-type patterns and aesthetic effects according to the prior art.
  • a second type according to the present invention wherein in the preferably indigo warp yarns, however prepared and arranged according to the present invention and divided into main- and secondary-type yarns interwoven with the preferably non-indigo weft yarns, the main yarns and the secondary yarns are swapped so that the patterns and the aesthetic effects on the fabric are apparently the same as in the first, standard fabric types.
  • the main yarns will take on a darker colour, on the average, whereas the secondary ones will take on a lighter colour, on the average, in the garment areas where the wash-out effect has been sufficiently intense to create a colour effect perceivable by the human eye in the two types of yarns.
  • the two types of yarns will not have obtained a colour difference visible to the human eye and therefore no new type of pattern according to the present invention will be revealed.
  • a particular case of production of a fabric according to the invention is where the fabric is close-woven, i.e. without patterns of the first type described above, and only patterns and aesthetic effects of the second type are made thereon. Therefore, said fabric will have, before its wash-out, the appearance of a standard denim-like, close-woven fabric, and only after its wash-out will reveal the underlying pattern or aesthetic effects made according to the present invention only in the areas subject to a sufficiently intense wash-out.
  • Fig. 1 shows a weave which forms the bonded tubular background, with a main yarn effect with a thin diagonal weave and a well-bonded reverse side.
  • the four boxes identify the four possible combinations of horizontally odd (1) and even (2) weft threads and vertically odd (1) and even (2) chain threads, and the weaves which are applied to these combinations, respectively.
  • a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of solid dyed cotton, "B” is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton, and a weft sequence of the (a b) type is used, where "a” is a raw stretch nylon yarn and "b” is a raw stretch cotton yarn.
  • Fig. 2 instead, shows a weave which forms the pattern or aesthetic effect of the secondary yarn, again with a thin diagonal weave and a well-bonded reverse side identical to those of the background.
  • Fig.11 shows a fabric made with said background and pattern weaves.
  • Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 respectively, show other two weaves of the bonded tubular type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a stronger diagonal effect than the one previously described.
  • Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a thin diagonal.
  • the two boxes identify the two possible combinations of the weft thread alone (1) horizontally and the two odd (1) and even (2) chain threads vertically, and the weaves which are applied to these combinations, respectively.
  • a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of indigo dyed cotton with high colour fixation, "B” is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a” is a yarn of raw stretch T400 polyester.
  • Fig. 7 and Fig. 8 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a larger, more visible diagonal.
  • Fig. 9 and Fig. 10 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a larger, more visible diagonal.
  • a warp sequence of the (A A B, i.e. 2A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of indigo dyed cotton with high colour fixation, "B” is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a” is a yarn of cotton-coated raw stretch T400 polyester or a cotton core spun with stretch T400 as the inner core.
  • Fig. 12 and Fig. 13 instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a thin diagonal.
  • a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A” is, for example, a main yarn of sulfur black dyed streaked cotton with high colour fixation, "B” is a secondary yarn of sulfur black dyed streaked cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a” is a raw cotton non-stretch yarn.
  • a complex warp sequence is used for the exchange of the main and secondary yarns, where inside the sequence the main yarn designated as "A” is kept on the right side, whereas the main yarn designated as "B", instead, is exchanged with the secondary yarn.
  • the main yarn is arranged on the reverse side of the fabric only in the area of these "B" yarns, whereas the secondary yarn, which was on the reverse side, is arranged on the right side in its place, swapping places.
  • a surface processing step is preferably carried out, in which treatments known per se are applied, for example wash-out, chemical and/or mechanical treatments, or other processes which apply processing effects to the fabric, which give the fabric a surface wear effect.
  • the wash-out step allows the surfacing and thus the revealing of the effects defined by the secondary yarn surfacing on the right side that is washed out, whereas the main yarn maintains the original colouring and surface characteristics to a greater extent, as previously mentioned.
  • wash-out can contribute to varying the effects on the garment even when the fabric comprises one garment only.
  • the invention also includes an innovative fabric, preferably of the denim type, made with the method or the yarns described herein.
  • the invention also comprises a garment made with the fabric described herein.
  • the method according to the invention achieves important advantages.
  • the above-described method allows the making of denim fabrics including effects and patterns that emerge following a single wash-out step.
  • this aspect makes it possible to provide a fabric, which is less treated than common denim fabrics and also allows shapes and patterns to be created without using coloured weft yarns.
  • the fabric manufacturing process comprises or may comprise a single wash-out step.
  • the fabric manufacturing costs are therefore reduced, as is the garment manufacturing complexity, as well as the cost of any laser processing steps designed to define patterns on denim fabrics, which are commonly used to create particular effects and patterns.
  • Said fabric can also be obtained by means of machines of type comprising a single warp beam. These machines are more common and more cost effective than machines including a plurality of warp beams.

Abstract

A method is provided for making fabrics, comprising: the use of main yarns, the use of secondary yarns exhibiting a better wash-out ability than the main yarns, a step of processing the surface of the finished fabric, suitable for applying washout effects so as to display an aesthetic effect or a predetermined pattern on the surface of the finished fabric.

Description

  • The present invention relates to a denim fabric and a method for making said fabric of the type specified in the preamble of the first claim.
  • Denim-type fabrics, also commonly called Jeans fabrics, are currently known. Denim fabrics are generally made from a cotton warp and a cotton or linen weft.
  • In the most common denim fabrics, the weft threads are coloured in blue, preferably indigo blue denim, and the warp threads in white.
  • Moreover, in these fabrics, the warp threads pass under two or more weft threads at a time.
  • As is known, denim fabrics and their variants have always been very commercially successful, particularly in the case of garments such as trousers and the like, thanks to their physical resistance and their excellent aesthetic appearance.
  • Nowadays, denim fabrics are used in many variations and obtained with different yarns, even stretch ones, or in different colours.
  • They are also generally washed out, following the manufacture of the garment, to obtain ageing and wear and tear aesthetic effects. These actions are carried out with chemical and/or mechanical additives, which strongly stress the structure of the fabric.
  • In addition, when the denim fabric is required to have the wash-out and ageing effects with predefined-shape patterns or drawings, the finishing step comprises the use of devices, for example laser-type devices, suitable for lightening some yarns of the fabric so as to display the desired shapes.
  • The described prior art has a few major drawbacks.
  • In particular, the use of lasers, as well as chemical additives, tends to wear out the fibres of the fabric, and therefore, if the garments are characterized by a plurality of surface drawings, the fabric becomes weakened.
  • In addition, these technologies imply additional operating costs, which are due to both the materials in use and the machinery involved in the finishing steps, and can be very high in the case of very large or extended drawings and/or patterns on the garment.
  • Moreover, the brightening of the fabrics, for the appearance of the desired visual aesthetic effects, involves carrying out an additional step compared to the normal fabric processing steps, with implications in time as well as economic terms.
  • In this context, the technical task underlying the present invention is to devise a denim fabric and a method for making said fabric, which is capable of substantially obviating at least some of the above-mentioned drawbacks.
  • Within the scope of said technical task, a major object of the invention is to obtain a fabric and a method for making said fabric, which allows the making of shapes and figures on a garment without using expensive technologies or technologies suitable to wear out the fabric.
  • Another major object of the invention is to provide a fabric and a method for making the fabric, which is suitable to cut down the steps required for the manufacture of decorated fabrics with effects and patterns imprinted on the surface of the fabric.
  • The technical task and the specified objects are achieved by means of a fabric and a method for making the fabric as claimed in appended claim 1. Exemplary preferred embodiments are described in the dependent claims.
  • The features and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the detailed description of preferred embodiments of the invention, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
    • Fig. 1 shows a first example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 2 shows a second example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 3 is a third example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 4 is an example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 5 shows a further example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 6 is an example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 7 shows a further example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 8 is an example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 9 shows a further example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 10 is an example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 11 shows a further example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention;
    • Fig. 12 is an example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention; and
    • Fig. 13 shows a further example of weaves for carrying out a part of the method according to the invention.
  • Herein, the measures, values, shapes and geometric references (such as perpendicularity and parallelism), when used with words like "about" or other similar terms such as "approximately" or "substantially", are to be understood as except for measurement errors or inaccuracies due to production and/or manufacturing errors and, above all, except for a slight divergence from the value, measure, shape or geometric reference with which it is associated. For example, these terms, if associated with a value, preferably indicate a divergence of not more than 10% from said value.
  • Furthermore, when used, terms such as "first", "second", "higher", "lower", "main" and "secondary" do not necessarily identify an order, a priority relationship or a relative position, but can simply be used to distinguish more clearly the different components from each other.
  • Unless otherwise indicated, the measurements and data provided in this document are to be considered using International Standard Atmosphere ICAO (ISO 2533).
  • The method of making denim fabrics according to the invention comprises the use of a main yarn, which preferably exhibits a poor wash-out ability, and preferably also a step of manufacturing said yarn. The main yarn is, for example, dyed with solid dyes. The term "exhibits a poor wash-out ability" preferably refers to a yarn with a value of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test (ISO 105 A02) preferably greater than or equal to 3, more preferably greater than 4, or anyway a high value as defined below.
  • The main yarn is a main yarn preferably made of cotton and preferably dyed in black, more preferably in sulfur black, or blue, more preferably in indigo blue, optionally added with black to vary the brightness of the colour. The main yarn is preferably also dyed in other colours, and alternatively solid dyes, in particular of the direct, reactive and Indanthrene® types, or indigo dyes with a treatment suitable for a high or very high colour fixation can be used.
  • Secondary yarns for example also made of cotton and preferably dyed in black, more preferably in sulfur black, or blue, more preferably in indigo blue, optionally added with black to vary the brightness of the colour, are also used or suitably manufactured.
  • The secondary yarn is preferably also dyed in other colours with other techniques such as for example with the so-called sulfur colours, or with mordant dyes, which allow non-solid colours to be obtained, which however can be washed out in the subsequent fabric or garment washing processes.
  • The secondary yarn preferably has a value of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test (ISO 105 A02) that is low or preferably at least one point less than the value of the main yarn in the same test. Therefore, the secondary yarn exhibits a better wash-out ability than the main yarn.
  • Furthermore, the secondary yarn preferably has a value of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test (ISO 105 A02) that is less than 2, or anyway a low value as defined below.
  • The main and the secondary yarns have values of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test (ISO 105 A02), which are high for the former and low for the latter, respectively, meaning that the former is necessarily higher than the latter, which is consequently low compared to the former.
  • Both the main yarns and the secondary yarns can be one- or two- or multiple-ply yarns and suitably have a count preferably comprised between 6/1 NE (i.e. 12/2 NE in the case of two-ply yarns) and 120/1 NE (i.e. 240/2 NE in the case of two-ply yarns). In the case of yarns with more than two plies, the counts will preferably match the counts mentioned herein for one- or two-ply yarns.
  • The main yarn is more preferably a two-ply yarn with a count of from 16/2 NE to 120/2 NE. The secondary yarn is more preferably a one-ply yarn with a count comprised between 8/1 NE and 60/1 NE.
  • These yarns are then suitably collected, after their dyeing preferably with indigo, on hard cones and/or supporting beams.
  • Said main or secondary yarns preferably make up the warp.
  • The weft consists, for example, of stretch or non-stretch yarn, preferably made of cotton or stretch polyamide or stretch polyester or other stretch material, or of yarns that are similar or identical to the main and secondary yarns.
  • The method according to the invention preferably comprises a step of producing a warp beam consisting of at least one main yarn and at least one secondary yarn, and a step of weaving with other weft yarns as mentioned above.
  • However, inverted configurations could be provided in which the weft and the warp are exchanged with one another, or even with others depending on the type of fabric to be produced and the wash-out effect to be sought.
  • Further yarns, even more than one, preferably made of cotton or other types and not indigo-dyed, but raw, bleached or dyed in another colour can be added both to the warp and the weft, so as to create specific effects on the fabric such as linings, patterns, fil-coupe or other effects.
  • When individual weft and warp yarns are described herein in the final weaves, it is obviously understood that these individual threads are periodically arranged both along the whole sequence of the weft threads and that of the warp threads, respectively, of the whole fabric in a periodic manner or anyway as described by the respective warp and weft sequences.
  • The beam thus formed is connected to a reed, which has suitably a linear thread density preferably greater than 20 threads/cm and more preferably comprised between 40 threads/cm and approximately 80 threads/cm. The width of the reed of the fabric on the loom will preferably be from 160 cm up to 260 cm in total for single looms or twice as much for double-width looms, which therefore weave two fabrics at the same time. Moreover, the number of threads in the warp beam will preferably be higher than 3000, more preferably between 4,000 and 20,000.
  • In this step, the secondary yarn is preferably placed in the warp and not in the weft as the main threads of the warp in a standard stretch (i.e. non-bistretch) denim fabric do not exhibit high shrinkage (from 3% to approximately 8%), whereas the stretch weft of the fabric exhibits high shrinkage (from a minimum of 15% even up to 50%). The aforesaid warp beam is suitably prepared on standard fractional or sectional warpers, as in particular in the case of 2-ply yarns. In the case of one-ply yarns, these are preferably glued prior to the warping on the final beam, whereas the secondary yarn is preferably not glued.
  • In order to provide said warp beam, warpers of a known type are preferably used. The warp sequences used preferably comprise, in a portion periodically repeated on the width of the fabric, with a determined warp sequence, a main yarn and a secondary yarn.
  • In a subsequent knotting step, the warp beam described is knotted to standard looms, for example a harness or Jacquard type, in a manner known per se.
  • There are also other ways of producing a fabric according to the present invention such as circular knitting or Jersey or straight weaving, Raschel knitting or other known types of fabric production.
  • During the weaving step, the secondary yarn and the main yarns are suitably tensioned by tensioning one or more of the yarn feed rollers. These feed rollers are subjected to tensions preferably varying within less than 5% of each other, and preferably said rollers are subjected to the same unwinding tension. In particular, the main and secondary yarns, particularly made of cotton, may be arranged on the same beam and the same rollers, so that they all have the same unwinding tension. Said unwinding tension is preferably comprised between 100 and 450 kgp, i.e. approximately from 10 g to 50 g (grams weight) per thread if uniformly calculated on all threads.
  • The advantageous possibility of using a single beam is given in particular by the fact that the main and secondary yarns maintain the same characteristics and are subject to the same deformations.
  • However, for the purposes of the invention, a plurality of beams could also be used. In this case, the secondary yarn and the main yarn would be separate, each on its own beam, and selected each time, and other beams with other types of yarns could be added in order to obtain special effects on the fabric thus produced.
  • If the beams are more than two and each of said beams is suitable to contain other yarns, for example a third yarn suitable to provide different characteristics when the fabric is washed out, effects and patterns with different colours, or rather different shades can be created following the wash-out.
  • In the case of circular or linear knit or Raschel or other type of fabrics, other supports will be used each time to collect the main and secondary yarns.
  • The subsequent weaving step is carried out with weaving cards by means of which denim-type fabrics are suitably obtained.
  • These weaving cards can be of a known type, e.g. of the single, twill type and the warp threads can be varied as desired among main yarn and secondary yarn, so as to create weave portions in which the warp interwoven with the weft defines shapes and patterns defined by a warp that can be washed out, i.e. comprising secondary yarns.
  • Furthermore, multiple weaves may also be provided, and one or more of the following rules can be followed:
    In the case in which the fabric is made by placing the main and secondary yarns in the warp, and other yarns in the weft instead, the fabrics according to the present invention are made from fabrics on a tubular base, preferably with two layers but also with more than two layers, or from double face chain fabrics, preferably with two layers but also with more than two layers.
  • In the case of tubular fabrics, the right side, or upper layer, in the indigo background areas has a suitably heavy weave, i.e. with the chain mainly at the top on the right side and the weft at the bottom on the reverse side, and uses main yarn threads, i.e. solid dyed, preferably indigo-dyed, where the threads of the chain are exposed and the weft is hidden instead. Diagonal weaves of different types are preferably used so as to enhance the typical diagonal of denim. Conveniently, for example, heavy 3 or 4 twills, heavy 6 twills, heavy 4-2 twills, and others, may be used according to needs and according to the desired enhancement of the diagonal. Other weaves may be used to obtain a higher or lower raising of the weft yarns with respect to the warp yarns so as to obtain patterns and aesthetic effects on the fabric in the background area.
  • The right side in the pattern areas is preferably obtained by replacing the main yarns in the weaves with secondary yarns and by using specific weaves which enhance, i.e. keep the secondary yarn more raised, or possibly hidden, i.e. more lowered than the other main yarns so as to create fabric portions comprising shapes or patterns defined by a fabric that can be washed out.
  • Similarly to the background, also in the pattern areas other weaves may be used to obtain a higher or lower raising of the weft yarns with respect to the warp yarns so as to obtain patterns and aesthetic effects on the fabric in the background area.
  • In the case of tubular weaves, said upper layer is preferably bonded to said lower layer through at least one repeated stitching so that the two fabric layers do not open and create to all intents and purposes the sensation of being a single layer. The repetition of the stitches will be preferably selected by bearing in mind the existing trade off to make a smaller number thereof in order not to bind the fabric too much and make it rigid and/or not comfortable and/or poorly elastic in the case of stretch fabrics, and, instead, of making a greater number thereof so as not to create layer opening effects and unpleasant bulges in the appearance and/or feel of the fabric and above all of the final washed-out garment.
  • Preferably, the binding stitches for the tubular layers will tend to follow and possibly conveniently reveal, i.e. enhance, the preferably diagonal effect, but also other effects of the right side, without creating faults, lack of uniformity or unpleasant stitches that are visible on the right side.
  • In the case of double face chain fabrics, the two faces of the warp on the right side of the fabric are made respectively by means of main yarns to create the background areas, and secondary yarns to make the pattern areas as also stated above. The two faces are then mutually reversed by placing, in turn, one on the right side and the other on the reverse side, respectively, so as to create the desired different patterns or aesthetic effects.
  • In this case, too, different double face chain or weft weaves with different degrees of heaviness can be used in order to obtain different pattern effects and aesthetic effects.
  • In both cases, the replacement of the main, preferably indigo yarns in the background area can be done by creating true areas of replacement of all main yarns with all secondary, preferably indigo yarns occurring in that area, thereby creating well defined patterns and graphic effects throughout the area involved, as described above.
  • However, the replacement of the main yarns with the secondary yarns can be carried out more preferably in another way, in which only a few main yarns are replaced in the area involved by respective secondary yarns. This can be done by following a warp sequence for said replacement, which may be simple (i.e. with a short repetition rate) or more complex (i.e. with a longer repetition rate). At most, the rate of the warp sequence for the replacement of the main threads with the secondary threads can be as long as the same warp, i.e. random or apparently random, without any type of repetition throughout the width of the warp. In this way, the pattern effect will be more diluted or will create a lining with simple or more complex repetitions.
  • This additional method of replacing the main yarns with secondary, preferably streaked, cotton or Tencel yarns will create pattern streak effects or streak effects with very complex aesthetic effects that are invisible on the fabric and the garment made with the fabric according to the present invention before the wash-out, but will be revealed on the garment in those areas that will be sufficiently washed out during the garment washing process.
  • In the above ways, aesthetic and pattern effects of two types can be obtained.
  • A first, standard type according to the prior art, wherein the preferably indigo warp yarns and the preferably non-indigo weft yarns are raised more or less one on top of the other in order to obtain standard-type patterns and aesthetic effects according to the prior art.
  • On the other hand, a second type according to the present invention, wherein in the preferably indigo warp yarns, however prepared and arranged according to the present invention and divided into main- and secondary-type yarns interwoven with the preferably non-indigo weft yarns, the main yarns and the secondary yarns are swapped so that the patterns and the aesthetic effects on the fabric are apparently the same as in the first, standard fabric types.
  • However these new types of fabrics, once they are preferably first manufactured into garments and then washed out according to the various well-known processes and methods, will reveal new pattern effects that will be produced by the different alternation of the main and secondary yarns in the background and pattern areas and by their different wash-out degree obtained during the above process.
  • In summary, after the wash-out, the main yarns will take on a darker colour, on the average, whereas the secondary ones will take on a lighter colour, on the average, in the garment areas where the wash-out effect has been sufficiently intense to create a colour effect perceivable by the human eye in the two types of yarns. Vice versa, where the garment has experienced a mild wash-out, the two types of yarns will not have obtained a colour difference visible to the human eye and therefore no new type of pattern according to the present invention will be revealed.
  • Consequently and conveniently, stylists and the people skilled in the art will have the possibility, on the garments made with the fabric produced according to the present invention, of revealing or concealing the produced patterns of the second type described above in the final wash-out step, thereby obtaining absolutely innovative aesthetic effects that can not be produced with other techniques.
  • A particular case of production of a fabric according to the invention is where the fabric is close-woven, i.e. without patterns of the first type described above, and only patterns and aesthetic effects of the second type are made thereon. Therefore, said fabric will have, before its wash-out, the appearance of a standard denim-like, close-woven fabric, and only after its wash-out will reveal the underlying pattern or aesthetic effects made according to the present invention only in the areas subject to a sufficiently intense wash-out.
  • Independently of the making of a tubular or non-tubular fabric, different types of weaves can be provided.
  • The figures below illustrate examples of weaves, which can be easily read and understood by a person skilled in the art.
  • In particular, Fig. 1 shows a weave which forms the bonded tubular background, with a main yarn effect with a thin diagonal weave and a well-bonded reverse side. The four boxes identify the four possible combinations of horizontally odd (1) and even (2) weft threads and vertically odd (1) and even (2) chain threads, and the weaves which are applied to these combinations, respectively. Conveniently, according to the present invention, in this case, a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A" is, for example, a main yarn of solid dyed cotton, "B" is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton, and a weft sequence of the (a b) type is used, where "a" is a raw stretch nylon yarn and "b" is a raw stretch cotton yarn. Fig. 2, instead, shows a weave which forms the pattern or aesthetic effect of the secondary yarn, again with a thin diagonal weave and a well-bonded reverse side identical to those of the background. Fig.11 shows a fabric made with said background and pattern weaves. In this way, in the fabric created prior to the wash-out, there will be no distinction to the human eye between the two background and pattern areas or anyway the distinction will be very slight and therefore the fabric before the wash-out will appear close-woven or with a pattern that is barely visible, and only after the wash-out the underlying pattern will be revealed to a greater or lesser extent in those areas that will have been subjected to a more or less intense wash-out, respectively.
  • Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, respectively, show other two weaves of the bonded tubular type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a stronger diagonal effect than the one previously described.
  • Fig. 5 and Fig. 6, instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a thin diagonal. The two boxes identify the two possible combinations of the weft thread alone (1) horizontally and the two odd (1) and even (2) chain threads vertically, and the weaves which are applied to these combinations, respectively. Conveniently, according to the present invention, in this case, a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A" is, for example, a main yarn of indigo dyed cotton with high colour fixation, "B" is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a" is a yarn of raw stretch T400 polyester.
  • Fig. 7 and Fig. 8, instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a larger, more visible diagonal.
  • Fig. 9 and Fig. 10, instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a larger, more visible diagonal. Conveniently, according to the present invention, in this case, a warp sequence of the (A A B, i.e. 2A B) type is used, where "A" is, for example, a main yarn of indigo dyed cotton with high colour fixation, "B" is a secondary yarn of indigo dyed cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a" is a yarn of cotton-coated raw stretch T400 polyester or a cotton core spun with stretch T400 as the inner core.
  • Fig. 12 and Fig. 13, instead, respectively show two weaves of the double face chain type suitable to create the background area and the pattern area, respectively, of another fabric according to the invention, which will have a thin diagonal. In this fabric, conveniently, according to the present invention, in this case, a warp sequence of the (A B) type is used, where "A" is, for example, a main yarn of sulfur black dyed streaked cotton with high colour fixation, "B" is a secondary yarn of sulfur black dyed streaked cotton without colour fixation, and a weft sequence of the (a) type is used, where "a" is a raw cotton non-stretch yarn. In the weave of the drawing of Fig. 13, a complex warp sequence is used for the exchange of the main and secondary yarns, where inside the sequence the main yarn designated as "A" is kept on the right side, whereas the main yarn designated as "B", instead, is exchanged with the secondary yarn. In this way, the main yarn is arranged on the reverse side of the fabric only in the area of these "B" yarns, whereas the secondary yarn, which was on the reverse side, is arranged on the right side in its place, swapping places.
  • The sequence used is as follows:
    2A 1B 2A 2B 2A 3B 4A 2B 2A 2B 2A 4B 3A 3B 3A 2B 3A 2B 3A 3B 3A 2B 3A 2B
  • It is possible to display the aforesaid sequence in the figures, where it can be seen that the "A"-type yarns which are not exchanged in the drawing are displayed vertically by the white-coloured yarns, whereas the "B"-type yarns which are exchanged on the right side in the drawing are displayed vertically by the grey-coloured yarns.
  • In this way, in the fabric made with the weaves of Fig. 12 and Fig. 13, once the garment has been made and washed, the background areas will have a streak effect with a darker colour which is uniform on average, and instead, only in the pattern or effect areas of the fabric, the latter will have an irregular streak effect with darker and lighter lines mixed together. The aforesaid colour lining differential effect will be revealed with increasing intensity in those pattern or effect areas where the wash-out has also been carried out with increasing intensity.
  • Following the weaving step, a surface processing step is preferably carried out, in which treatments known per se are applied, for example wash-out, chemical and/or mechanical treatments, or other processes which apply processing effects to the fabric, which give the fabric a surface wear effect.
  • Thanks to the positioning in the weave of both main yarns and secondary yarns, wherein the latter are woven so as to create predetermined effects and shapes, during this step the fabric, originally homogeneously coloured, allows the desired effects to surface.
  • In other words, the wash-out step allows the surfacing and thus the revealing of the effects defined by the secondary yarn surfacing on the right side that is washed out, whereas the main yarn maintains the original colouring and surface characteristics to a greater extent, as previously mentioned.
  • By adopting a plurality of secondary yarns it is therefore possible to create wash-out effects with different colours and tones on the same garment.
  • In addition, different types of wash-out can contribute to varying the effects on the garment even when the fabric comprises one garment only.
  • Therefore, the invention also includes an innovative fabric, preferably of the denim type, made with the method or the yarns described herein.
  • The invention also comprises a garment made with the fabric described herein. The method according to the invention achieves important advantages.
  • In fact, the above-described method allows the making of denim fabrics including effects and patterns that emerge following a single wash-out step.
  • In particular, this aspect makes it possible to provide a fabric, which is less treated than common denim fabrics and also allows shapes and patterns to be created without using coloured weft yarns.
  • The fabric manufacturing process, during the finishing step, comprises or may comprise a single wash-out step.
  • The fabric manufacturing costs are therefore reduced, as is the garment manufacturing complexity, as well as the cost of any laser processing steps designed to define patterns on denim fabrics, which are commonly used to create particular effects and patterns.
  • Said fabric can also be obtained by means of machines of type comprising a single warp beam. These machines are more common and more cost effective than machines including a plurality of warp beams.
  • The invention is subject to variations without departing from the scope of the inventive concept as defined in the claims.
  • In this context, all details are replaceable by equivalent elements, and the materials, shapes and dimensions may be any materials, shapes and dimensions.

Claims (15)

  1. A method for making a fabric, characterized in that it comprises:
    - the use of main yarns,
    - the use of secondary yarns exhibiting a better wash-out ability than said main yarns,
    - a step of processing the surface of said finished fabric, suitable for applying washout effects so as to display an aesthetic effect or a predetermined pattern on the surface of said finished fabric.
  2. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said secondary yarns have a value of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test of at least one point less than the value of said main yarns in the same test.
  3. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, wherein said main yarns have a value of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test greater than or equal to 3 and said secondary yarns have a value of colour fastness to the wet rubbing test less than or equal to 2.
  4. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, wherein said main yarns are solid dyed yarns that can not be washed out, and said secondary yarns are yarns that can be washed out.
  5. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, comprising a plurality of types of said secondary yarns with different degrees of wash-out ability.
  6. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, comprising the manufacture of at least one warp beam comprising said secondary yarns and/or said main yarns.
  7. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, comprising a weaving step in which a fabric is made by means of said at least one warp beam.
  8. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, wherein said warp beam is made with a periodic basis consisting of at least one of said secondary yarns and one of said main yarns.
  9. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said main yarns and/or said secondary yarns are one- or two-ply yarns and have a count preferably comprised between 6/1 NE (i.e. 12/2 NE in the case of two-ply yarns) and 120/1 NE (i.e. 240/2 NE in the case of two-ply yarns).
  10. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said secondary yarn is a one-ply yarn with a count comprised between 8/1 NE and 60/1 NE, and said main yarn is preferably a two-ply yarn with a count of from 16/2 NE to 120/2 NE.
  11. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, wherein said main yarns are two for each one of said secondary yarns.
  12. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said main and secondary yarns are made of cotton or Tencel.
  13. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, wherein said secondary yarns and said main yarns are placed on the same beam.
  14. The method according to at least one of the preceding claims, wherein said weaving step results in a fabric selected from a denim, jersey or raschel type of fabric.
  15. A denim fabric characterized in that it is made according to one or more of the preceding claims.
EP19154611.8A 2019-01-30 2019-01-30 Method for making a fabric Active EP3690098B1 (en)

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3377412A (en) * 1964-06-01 1968-04-09 American Enka Corp Polyvinyl pyrrolidone in viscose and method of producing dye-receptive filaments
JPH02127538A (en) * 1988-11-07 1990-05-16 Mitsubishi Motors Corp Wool/chemical fiber woven fabric structure
CA1338950C (en) * 1988-04-14 1997-03-04 Veratec, Inc. Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric
WO2010079989A2 (en) * 2009-01-09 2010-07-15 Cho Eun Hyo Fabric woven to have stripe pattern of different light and shades and clothing made from the fabric
KR20110042586A (en) * 2009-10-19 2011-04-27 주식회사 우양크리에이션 Textile weaved with various dyed yarn

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3377412A (en) * 1964-06-01 1968-04-09 American Enka Corp Polyvinyl pyrrolidone in viscose and method of producing dye-receptive filaments
CA1338950C (en) * 1988-04-14 1997-03-04 Veratec, Inc. Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric
JPH02127538A (en) * 1988-11-07 1990-05-16 Mitsubishi Motors Corp Wool/chemical fiber woven fabric structure
WO2010079989A2 (en) * 2009-01-09 2010-07-15 Cho Eun Hyo Fabric woven to have stripe pattern of different light and shades and clothing made from the fabric
KR20110042586A (en) * 2009-10-19 2011-04-27 주식회사 우양크리에이션 Textile weaved with various dyed yarn

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