CA1338950C - Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric - Google Patents
Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabricInfo
- Publication number
- CA1338950C CA1338950C CA000616914A CA616914A CA1338950C CA 1338950 C CA1338950 C CA 1338950C CA 000616914 A CA000616914 A CA 000616914A CA 616914 A CA616914 A CA 616914A CA 1338950 C CA1338950 C CA 1338950C
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- fabric
- support member
- yarns
- stream
- woven
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
Abstract
A hydropatterning apparatus is disclosed for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric. It includes a woven or knitted fabric workpiece having a non-colourfast dye component; and a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction. The conveyor includes a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces.
Hydrojet means are provided for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
Hydrojet means are provided for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
Description
APPARATIJS AND METHOD FOR HYDROPATTERNING FABRIC
SPECIFICATION
Field of The Invention This invention generally relates to a method and apparatus for producing a visual pattern or other patterned ef~ect in fabric, and more particularly, for producing a pattern through treatment witl water.
Backqround Art It has become desirable to impart a visual pattern or ot~ler patterned effect on some types of fabries. For example, it is desireable to produce a washed-out, distressed, or pre-worn el-fect on dye~ denim fabrics. Dyeing and dye printing are normally additive processes where ~yes or pigments are added to natural, wllite, or previously dyed fabrics. Creating distressed or pre-worn surface effects is gellcrally a subtractive process of removing eolor from tl~e ~ye(l ~a}Jric. ',evera:l s~lbtractive, ~ye~ fabric treatmellt processes are knowll in tlle art, but llave been foulld to be ullsatisfactory for various reasons.
lor example, disc}large printing is a subtractive printincJ
process wl~ere fal)ric is piece-dyed ancl then printed witll a paste of - 1 3 3 ~ 9 50 caustic soda and sodium hydrosulfite to destroy the color in the printed areas. The caustic paste used to remove the base color must be thoroughly washed out, or it can have a serious deteriorating effect on the fabric.
Acid washing is a chemically induced, subtractive process which removes color from fabric already cut and sewn into garments.
Acid washed effects are achieved by soaking pumice stone in chlorine bleach, which are then added to a load of denim garments in an industrial washing machine without water. The load of stones and garments is agitated for a length of time based upon the degree of "frosting" or color removal desired, e.g. from one to several hours.
The effect of the acid coupled with the abrasion caused by the stones is extremely detrimental to fabric strength and durability.
Stone washing is a mechanical, color subtractive process achieved by a combination of crocking, abrasion, and lack of color fastness to washing. IIere denim garments are loaded into industrial washers along with water and pumice stones and agitated for a predetermined length of time. The degree of washout can be somewhat controlled by the length of the agitation cycle, however, the overall effect is the end result of substantially random processes. The fabric is subject to less abuse and deterioration in stone washing than in acid washing. Ilowever, for both stone and acid washing, the washout patterning of the fabric cannot be precisely controlled and made repeatable from load to load. In both cases, the wash equipment is subjected to extremely hard beating caused by the tumbling and crumbling of the pumice stone.
t 3389~0 Acid washing and other chemical treatment of fabrics generate large amounts of contaminated or caustic effluents which are discharged to the environment. It is highly desireable to find ways to reduce the amounts of polluted effluents that are discharged to the environment.
In order to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art, it is a principal object of the invention to provide an apparatus and related method for producing a visual pattern or other effect on fabric which minimizes abuse and deterioration of the process equipment, as well as the fabric being processed. In particular, it is a specific object to obtain subtractive color patterning of woven fabric by non-caustic fluid treatment which does not wear down and damage the process equipment and deteriorate the fabric. It is a further object to pattern fabric through a process which reduces the amounts of polluted effluents that are discharged to the environment.
Summary of The Invention The present invention encompasses an hydropatterning apparatus comprising: a conveyor for conveying a sheet of fabric through a patterning station along a machine direction, the conveyor including a support surface formed with a pattern of solid areas and void areas interspersed therein, wherein the fabric is placed flat in contact with the support surface as it is carried through the patterning station; hydrojet means disposed above the conveyor for directing a curtain of fluid downwardly to impact on the fabric as it is moved through the patterning station on the support surface, 1~38~0 wherein said curtain of fluid is substantially continuous across the fabric and is controlled such that a visual property of the fabric become altered in correspondence to the pattern of solid areas and void areas of the support surface due to the impact of the fluid curtain on the fabric against the patterned support surface. The invention also includes a process for hydropatterning fabric as in the above-described apparatus, as well as the patterned fabric product produced by such process.
In the preferred form of the invention, the hydropatterning apparatus includes a plurality of manifolds mounted in parallel along the periphery of a conveyor drum forming a series of curtains of water under which the fabric is conveyed, each manifold including a plurality of nozzles, distributed in the cross direction perpendicular to the machine direction, which eject divergent, overlapping jets of water so that the water curtain impacts substantially evenly across the width of the fabric. The nozzles preferably have wide divergent openings so that they do not become clogged with fibers from the fabric and other debris, have angles of divergence in the range of 2 to 45 degrees, and are disposed about 1 to 10 inches above the conveyor. Preferred results are obtained using water pressures of about 1000 psi at process speeds of 60 ft/min, and with energy of 0.4 to 2.0 hp-hr/sq-yd.
A specific application for the present invention is the hydropatterning of dyed woven fabric obtained by washing color from areas of the fabric in contact with the solid areas of the patterned support surface. The support surface is formed with a pattern of - 1 338~50 solid and void areas corresponding to the washout pattern to be obtained on the fabric. The void areas preferably occupy approximately 25 percent of the overall pattern area.
~ further application for the present invention is the hydropatterning of fabric obtained by displacement of yarn or fibre in repeating patterns in the fabric. Light density or loosely woven fabrics are subjected to the above-described hydrojet treatment while in contact with a support surface having a pattern of raised areas, such as domes, or three-dimensionally embossed or relief-patterned woven screens.
Visual effects such as ribbing, wavy lines, checkering, geometric or floral designs, or lacework can be obtained.
Hydropatterned fibre displacement can be applied to dyed or undyed woven or knitted fabrics, as well as to nonwoven and stitch-bonded fabrics.
In a broad aspect, therefore, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning apparatus for producing a visual pattern in a knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric comprising: a conveyor for conveying a sheet of the knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric to a patterning station along a machine direction, the conveyor including a support surface formed with a pattern of raised and lowered areas and solid or void areas interspersed therein, wherein the fabric is placed flat in contact with the support surface as it is carried through the patterning station; hydrojet means disposed above the conveyor for directing a curtain of non-compressible fluid downwardly to impact on the fabric as it is moved through the 1 33~950 - 5(a) -patterning station on the support surface, wherein said fluid curtain is substantially continuous across the fabric, such that a visual property of the fabric becomes altered in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface due to the impact of the fluid curtain on the fabric against the patterned support surface, wherein, said hydrojet means includes a manifold extending in a cross direction perpendicular to the machine direction having a plurality of nozzles spaced in the cross direction which eject divergent, fan sprays having an angle of divergence so as to provide overlapping jets of water forming said water curtain substantially evenly across the fabric.
In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a method for hydropatterning a visual pattern in a knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric, comprising the steps of:
conveying a sheet of the knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric along a machine direction supported on a support surface formed with a pattern of raised and lowered areas and solid or void areas interspersed therein; directing a curtain of non-compressible fluid downwardly to impact on the fabric as it is conveyed on the support surface, wherein said fluid curtain is substantially continuous across the fabric, such that a visual property of the fabric become altered in correspondence to the pattern of raised or solid areas and lowered or void areas of the support surface due to the impact of the curtain of fluid on the fabric against the support surface.
1 33~95a - 5(b) -In a further broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning apparatus for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric comprising: a woven or knitted fabric workpiece having a non-colourfast dye component, a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces, hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning method for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric comprising: conveying a woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction, on and in direct contact with a support member, the fabric having a non-colourfast dye component and the support member having a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces, evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
- 5(c) -In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterned woven or knitted fabric comprising dyed yarns selectively faded to form an even and reproducible patterned surface by interaction between an evenly controlled application of a non-compressible fluid under pressure and an underlying patterned backing.
In yet another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning apparatus for producing a visual pattern in a woven fabric comprising: a woven fabric workpiece having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points; a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein; hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
In still another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning method for producing a visual pattern in a woven fabric comprising: supporting a woven fabric having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points; on and in direct contact with a patterned - 5(d) -support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid and perforated surfaces interspersed therein; conveying said woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction; evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
In still another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterned woven fabric comprised of warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points, said fabric being supported on a patterned support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein, said fabric being subjected to treatment by a continuous curtain of liquid extending across the width of the fabric with force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a method for patterning a woven fabric, said fabric comprising substantially continuous yarns which are .' ~
- 5(e) -interlaced in a repeating configuration and having a left lateral edge, a right lateral edge, and a point therebetween, said method comprising: (a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric; wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises: (i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges; (ii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and (iii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
In still another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a method for patterning a woven fabric, said fabric comprising substantially continuous yarns which are interlaced in a repeating configuration and having a left lateral edge, a right lateral edge, and a point therebetween, said method comprising: (a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric; wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises: (i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges; (ii) at least one stream deviating at an '. k3~
,. ~
- 5(f) -angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and (iii) at least one stream deviating at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
In a further broad aspect, the present invention relates to an apparatus for patterning a textile fabric, said apparatus comprising: (a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including: (i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support; (ii) at least one stream deviating leftward from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and (iii) at least one stream deviating rightward from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
In yet another broad aspect, the present invention relates to an apparatus for patterning a textile fabric, said apparatus comprising: (a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including: (i) at C
,_ ~ 338950 5(g) least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support; (ii) at least one stream deviating leftward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and (iii) at least one stream deviating rightward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
Other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description of the best mode of practising the invention when considered with reference to the drawings, as follows:
Brief Description of the Drawings FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the process steps for hydropatterning fabric in accordance with the invention;
FIG. 2 is a perspective view illustrating one embodiment of hydropatterning apparatus for carrying out the invention;
FIG. 3 is a side schematic view of the hydropatterning apparatus illustrated in FIG. 2;
~C '' 1 338q50 FIG. 4 is a side schematic view of another embodiment of the hydropatterning apparatus;
FIG. 5A is a sectional view showing a planar support surface for hydropatterning fabric which has a pattern of void and solid areas suitable for color washout effects, and FIG. 5B is a sectional view of a drum support surface which has a pattern of domes and depressed areas suitable for fiber displacement effects;
FIGS. 6~ to 6K are photographs of support surface patterns and the resulting dye washout effects obtained in the fabric in accordance with the invention; and FIGS. 7A to 7L are photographs of support surface patterns and the resulting fiber displacement effects obtained in the fabric.
Best Mode Of Carrying Out The Invention The hydropatterning apparatus and related method and products of the invention obtain a controllable and repeatable visual pattern in fabric by the application of a non-caustic fluid under pressure to the fabric carried in contact with a patterned support surface. The invention as described herein applies a continuous curtain of water to obtain a subtractive, color washout effect in dyed woven fabrics, such as in warp dyed denim with indigo dyestuff, and fiber displacement patterns in light density or loosely woven fabrics.
However, it should be understood that the principles of the invention may be applied to other applications besides color washout and fiber displacement, may employ other non-caustic fluids besides water, and may be used with other types of fabrics, including nonwoven fabrics.
1 33~50 Referring to the general process steps of the invention as illustrated in Fig. 1, incoming fabric is subjected to any required pre-treatment, such as dyeing with dyestuff to obtain a base color level. The pre-treated fabric is then subjected to the hydropatterning treatment of the invention at a patterning station, which receives a supply of high pressure water from and returns recovered water to the associated water processing equipment. The patterned fabric from the patterning station is then subjected to any required post-treatment, such as drying under tension on conventional tenter frames, to obtain the final fabric product.
In the following description of one embodiment of the hydropatterning apparatus, a continuous sheet of dyed woven fabric is subjected to hydropatterning treatment to produce a color washout effect. The dyeing of woven fabric is deemed to be well known to those skilled in the art. The type of dyestuff and method of dyeing plays an important role in the patterning effect to be obtained. For dyed denim, indigo dye is preferred for its surface or layered characteristic, i.e. not being fast to washing, which produces patterned effects by the removal of dye from the surface of the yarns in discrete areas. The indigo dye is typically applied by passing yarns from a warp beam through a series of 5 to 8 dye baths to form a number of dye coats on the surface of the fibers.
Referring now to one preferred form of hydropatterning apparatus shown in Fig. 2, the patterning station 10 includes an endless conveyor 24 driven by rollers 26, 28 for advancing the fabric 12 in a machine direction (arrow indicating a downstream `_ 1 338950 direction). Preferred line speeds for the conveyor are in the range of lO to 500 ft/min. The conveyor 24 presents a generally planar support surface 16 in the patterning zone which is formed with a plain weave pattern of solid (or raised) and void (or lowered) areas, e.g. grid, honeycomb, diamond, striated, etc. The fabric is supported in contact with the solid or raised areas of the pattern, while the void areas drain away the water applied to the fabric, as described further below. In the preferred embodiments, the void areas occupy approximately 25 percent of the overall pattern area.
The fabric 12 in Fig. 2 has a different cross-hatching at the exit end 42 from the incoming fabric at the entry end 3~ to indicate that it has been altered by the hydropatterning process.
Mounted above the conveyor 24 is an arrangement of manifolds 30 spaced apart in parallel and aligned in a cross direction of the fabric which is perpendicular to the machine direction. The manifolds 30 are spaced approximately 4 inches apart, and are positioned at least l.O inch, and preferably in the range of 1 to lO
inches above the conveyor. Each manifold has a row of water jet nozzles 36, spaced along the cross direction, which ejects a divergent fan jet 34 of water downwardly on the fabric 12. The fan jets 34 overlap to form a continuous curtain 40 of water which impacts substantially evenly across- the width of the fabric. This produces an even pressure of water on the fabric against the patterned support surface in order to avoid streaking or otherwise uneven patterning.
The manifolds are designed to deliver fluid pressures to the -nozzles 36 in the range of 200 to 2500 psi. The nozzles of the manifold are spaced approximately 1 inch apart and are positioned 1 to 10 inches above the conveyor 24. The fan jets 34 diverge in a fan-shape having an angle of divergence in the cross direction relative to the nozzle axis which is perpendicular to the conveyor surface. The angle of divergence may be from 2 to 45 degrees, and experimentation has shown that a divergence angle of about 18 degrees yields an optimum fan shape and an even curtain of water pressure.
The output energy of the curtain of water is preferably in the range of 0.4 to 2.0 hp-hr/sq-yd of fabric, and particularly 1.0 hp-hr/sq-yd. In the case of heavier fabrics such as denim, the energy applied to the surface of the fabric may be a surface effect and therefore independent of weight.
Preferred nozzles for use in the invention are of the type manufactured by Spraying Systems Co., distributed by J.~. Snowden &
Associates, Manchester, New llampsire, under product designation 0503-TC. This nozzle has a tungsten carbide spray tip which has been found effective for providing regulated pressure sprays. The ejection orifices in the nozzle have a non-circular shaped configuration. The preferred nozzle has an effective diameter of about 0.43 inches and flow rate of 1.5 gallons/min with an effective jet spray angle of approximately 18 degrees and 1000 psi.
As shown in Fig. 3, as the fabric is moved on the conveyor 24 through the series of water curtains 40, the water impacts on the fabric against the raised or solid areas of the patterned support surface. It is found that a dye which lacks a certain degree of -color fastness, such as indigo dye, will wash out from the fabric in the raised or solid areas at least partially under the pressure of the water curtains. The water and carried-away dye is drained through the void areas of the support surface to a collecting tank 50 below the conveyor 24. A filter 52 is provided to remove dislodged fibers and other debris, and a recirculating pump 54 returns the water under pressure to the manifolds 30. The washed out dye may be removed by the use of settling tanks.
A preferred conveyor structure is shown in Fig. 4 employing a cylindrical or drum conveyor 24 and patterned support surface 60.
The manifolds 30 are arranged in close proximity at the upper part of the circumference of the support member. In its other aspects, the operation of this embodiment is similar to the first described embodiment, although the drum conveyor is found to provide preferred results. The water processing equipment in this embodiment includes a filtration system of the type manufactured by Dore Oliver Inc., Stamford, Connecticut, under product designation 120 DSM Screen. The DSM system has a dispensing nozzle 64 and filter screen 66 which directs fiber debris into discharge receptacle 70, while the filtered fluid is diverted to be recirculated through pump 72. A settling tank is used for dyestuff recovery, although it is not shown in the drawing.
In Fig. 5A, a side sectional view illustrates the washout patterning function of the water curtains 40 impacting downward on the fabric 12 carried on the support surface 16 (60). The support surface has a pattern of solid areas 16a and void areas 16b, such as may be produced by a honeycomb or evenly perforated pattern in a screen. The pressure of the water jets presses the fabric 12 against the support surface so that portions of it are supported on the solid areas 16a and other portions are depressed into the void areas 16b. It is found that, for a dyed fabric, the dye tends to wash out from the raised portions supported on the solid areas 16a, and to drain into and to be retained in the depressed portions in the void areas 16b, thereby producing a color washout pattern corresponding to the pattern of the support surface.
In Figs. 6A to 6K, examples of several patterned support surfaces and the resulting pattern effect obtained on the fabric are shown. Generally, the support surface is formed out of fine wire mesh in which raised areas are formed in a repeating pattern, or from a metal plate in which void areas are perforated. In Fig. 6A the support surface was a perforated metal plate with round void areas, and the resulting fabric is shown in Fig. 6B having a stippled washout effect. The support surface in Fig. 6C is a wire mesh embossed with a repeating flower pattern, and the resulting patterned fabric is shown in Fig. 6D. The wire mesh employed a basket weave embossing in Fig. 6E, with the result in Fig. 6F, a plaid embossing in Fig. 6G, with the result in Fig. 6H, a lines/dots embossing in Fig. 6I, with the result in Fig. 6J. The patterned result of a wire mesh drum embossed with a honeycomb pattern is shown in Fig. 6K.
Besides retaining the washout pattern, the resulting fabrics can also retain a three-dimensional embossed effect corresponding to 1 33~950 - the pattern of the support surface due to the pressure of the water at the hydropatterning station forcing the fabric into the open areas of the screen or plate. The patterned fabrics may be treated with sizing or other stiffeners or heat setting to make the embossed effect more permanent. The embossed effect can be obtained alone, without the washout effect, by using dyestuff which is more color fast than indigo or other vat dyes.
In Fig. 5B, a side sectional view illustrates the fiber displacement patterning function of the water curtains 40 impacting downward on the fabric 12 carried on the drum support surface 16 (60). The drum support surface has a three-dimensionally embossed or woven relief pattern of raised or embossed areas 16a, such as in the shape of domes, and void areas 16b. The pressure of the water jets presses the fabric 12 against the support surface so that portions of it are forced against the domed areas 16a and other portions are depressed into the lowered or void areas 16b. The drum support surface is preferred for both color washout and fiber displacement effects. It is found that, for light density or loosely woven fabrics, the fibers are displaced by the action of the water and become entangled together at crossover points. The yarns are thus locked together, creating open areas or lace-like fabric with good cohesion and stability. The fabric also exhlbits yood drape and hand, because it is such an open fabric, yet has limited yarn slippage due to the locking together of the fibers during hydropatterning. The patterning is most effective in lightweight fabrics with fine to moderate size yarns. Such patterns can include 133g950 ribbing, wavy lines, checkering, geometric or floral designs, or lacework effects. The use of higher energy water curtains or treating the patterned fabrics with sizing can make the displacement effect more permanent.
Figs. 7A to 7L show samples of the displacement patterns obtained in fabrics with different patterned screens. In Fig. 7A, a blouse fabric made of polyester/rayon, having filament warp yarns of 76 ends/inch in the warp (machine) direction, and spun fill of 31 picks/inch in the cross direction, is patterned using the flower patterned screen shown in Fig. 7B. The photomicrograph of Fig. 7C
shows a magnified view (16x~ of the yarn displacement obtained. In Fig. 7D, a shirt fabric o~ 100~ cotton, of 76 ends/inch by 68 picks/inch, is patterned using the woven mesh (20x20/inch) screen shown in Fig. 7E, with the displacement result shown magnified (16x) in Fig. 7F. In Fig. 7G, a seeded batiste fabric, composed of 92%
polyester and 8% cotton fibers, of 90 ends/inch by 44 picks/inch, is obtained usinq the wavy lines/dots screen shown in Fig. 7~, with the displacement result shown magnified (16x) in Fig. 7I. Fig. 7J
further shows the blouse fabric patterned with the wavy lines/dots screen of Fig. 7H, with the fiber displacement result shown magnified (16x) in Fig. 7K and (l~x) in Fig. 7L.
Thus, the invention provides a method and apparatus for patterning fabrics by the use of one or more water curtains under pressure against a patterned screen. The pattern can be regularly repeated in the fabric and controlled for the desir~d effect. A wide range of patterned designs and visual effects can be obtained. The hydropatterning technique of the invention produces minimal wear and tear on the process equipment and on the fabric being processed.
Furthermore, the production of caustic or chemical wastes is minimized, thereby lessening the impact of such fabric treatment processes on the environment.
A wide range of other patterning effects can be achieved by using different dyes, colors, dyeing processes, water curtain configurations, screen patterns, fabrics, and fabric weaves. The water curtain can be generated by other types and arrangements of nozzles and pressure manifolds. Woven, perforated, or expanded metal or plastic screens or other three-dimensional screens with raised and lowered areas can be used for the support surface to achieve the patterned effect. The hydrojet processing of the fabric can also employ additives, such as caustic agents and abrasives, if desired, and other types of fluids. Besides woven fabrics, other nonwoven, bonded, layered, gauze, or composite fabrics or laminates may be similarly hydropatterned in accordance with the principles of the invention. Other variations of structures, materials, products, and processes may be devised, which are nevertheless considered to be within the spirit and scope of the present invention, as defined in the claims appended hereto.
SPECIFICATION
Field of The Invention This invention generally relates to a method and apparatus for producing a visual pattern or other patterned ef~ect in fabric, and more particularly, for producing a pattern through treatment witl water.
Backqround Art It has become desirable to impart a visual pattern or ot~ler patterned effect on some types of fabries. For example, it is desireable to produce a washed-out, distressed, or pre-worn el-fect on dye~ denim fabrics. Dyeing and dye printing are normally additive processes where ~yes or pigments are added to natural, wllite, or previously dyed fabrics. Creating distressed or pre-worn surface effects is gellcrally a subtractive process of removing eolor from tl~e ~ye(l ~a}Jric. ',evera:l s~lbtractive, ~ye~ fabric treatmellt processes are knowll in tlle art, but llave been foulld to be ullsatisfactory for various reasons.
lor example, disc}large printing is a subtractive printincJ
process wl~ere fal)ric is piece-dyed ancl then printed witll a paste of - 1 3 3 ~ 9 50 caustic soda and sodium hydrosulfite to destroy the color in the printed areas. The caustic paste used to remove the base color must be thoroughly washed out, or it can have a serious deteriorating effect on the fabric.
Acid washing is a chemically induced, subtractive process which removes color from fabric already cut and sewn into garments.
Acid washed effects are achieved by soaking pumice stone in chlorine bleach, which are then added to a load of denim garments in an industrial washing machine without water. The load of stones and garments is agitated for a length of time based upon the degree of "frosting" or color removal desired, e.g. from one to several hours.
The effect of the acid coupled with the abrasion caused by the stones is extremely detrimental to fabric strength and durability.
Stone washing is a mechanical, color subtractive process achieved by a combination of crocking, abrasion, and lack of color fastness to washing. IIere denim garments are loaded into industrial washers along with water and pumice stones and agitated for a predetermined length of time. The degree of washout can be somewhat controlled by the length of the agitation cycle, however, the overall effect is the end result of substantially random processes. The fabric is subject to less abuse and deterioration in stone washing than in acid washing. Ilowever, for both stone and acid washing, the washout patterning of the fabric cannot be precisely controlled and made repeatable from load to load. In both cases, the wash equipment is subjected to extremely hard beating caused by the tumbling and crumbling of the pumice stone.
t 3389~0 Acid washing and other chemical treatment of fabrics generate large amounts of contaminated or caustic effluents which are discharged to the environment. It is highly desireable to find ways to reduce the amounts of polluted effluents that are discharged to the environment.
In order to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art, it is a principal object of the invention to provide an apparatus and related method for producing a visual pattern or other effect on fabric which minimizes abuse and deterioration of the process equipment, as well as the fabric being processed. In particular, it is a specific object to obtain subtractive color patterning of woven fabric by non-caustic fluid treatment which does not wear down and damage the process equipment and deteriorate the fabric. It is a further object to pattern fabric through a process which reduces the amounts of polluted effluents that are discharged to the environment.
Summary of The Invention The present invention encompasses an hydropatterning apparatus comprising: a conveyor for conveying a sheet of fabric through a patterning station along a machine direction, the conveyor including a support surface formed with a pattern of solid areas and void areas interspersed therein, wherein the fabric is placed flat in contact with the support surface as it is carried through the patterning station; hydrojet means disposed above the conveyor for directing a curtain of fluid downwardly to impact on the fabric as it is moved through the patterning station on the support surface, 1~38~0 wherein said curtain of fluid is substantially continuous across the fabric and is controlled such that a visual property of the fabric become altered in correspondence to the pattern of solid areas and void areas of the support surface due to the impact of the fluid curtain on the fabric against the patterned support surface. The invention also includes a process for hydropatterning fabric as in the above-described apparatus, as well as the patterned fabric product produced by such process.
In the preferred form of the invention, the hydropatterning apparatus includes a plurality of manifolds mounted in parallel along the periphery of a conveyor drum forming a series of curtains of water under which the fabric is conveyed, each manifold including a plurality of nozzles, distributed in the cross direction perpendicular to the machine direction, which eject divergent, overlapping jets of water so that the water curtain impacts substantially evenly across the width of the fabric. The nozzles preferably have wide divergent openings so that they do not become clogged with fibers from the fabric and other debris, have angles of divergence in the range of 2 to 45 degrees, and are disposed about 1 to 10 inches above the conveyor. Preferred results are obtained using water pressures of about 1000 psi at process speeds of 60 ft/min, and with energy of 0.4 to 2.0 hp-hr/sq-yd.
A specific application for the present invention is the hydropatterning of dyed woven fabric obtained by washing color from areas of the fabric in contact with the solid areas of the patterned support surface. The support surface is formed with a pattern of - 1 338~50 solid and void areas corresponding to the washout pattern to be obtained on the fabric. The void areas preferably occupy approximately 25 percent of the overall pattern area.
~ further application for the present invention is the hydropatterning of fabric obtained by displacement of yarn or fibre in repeating patterns in the fabric. Light density or loosely woven fabrics are subjected to the above-described hydrojet treatment while in contact with a support surface having a pattern of raised areas, such as domes, or three-dimensionally embossed or relief-patterned woven screens.
Visual effects such as ribbing, wavy lines, checkering, geometric or floral designs, or lacework can be obtained.
Hydropatterned fibre displacement can be applied to dyed or undyed woven or knitted fabrics, as well as to nonwoven and stitch-bonded fabrics.
In a broad aspect, therefore, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning apparatus for producing a visual pattern in a knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric comprising: a conveyor for conveying a sheet of the knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric to a patterning station along a machine direction, the conveyor including a support surface formed with a pattern of raised and lowered areas and solid or void areas interspersed therein, wherein the fabric is placed flat in contact with the support surface as it is carried through the patterning station; hydrojet means disposed above the conveyor for directing a curtain of non-compressible fluid downwardly to impact on the fabric as it is moved through the 1 33~950 - 5(a) -patterning station on the support surface, wherein said fluid curtain is substantially continuous across the fabric, such that a visual property of the fabric becomes altered in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface due to the impact of the fluid curtain on the fabric against the patterned support surface, wherein, said hydrojet means includes a manifold extending in a cross direction perpendicular to the machine direction having a plurality of nozzles spaced in the cross direction which eject divergent, fan sprays having an angle of divergence so as to provide overlapping jets of water forming said water curtain substantially evenly across the fabric.
In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a method for hydropatterning a visual pattern in a knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric, comprising the steps of:
conveying a sheet of the knitted, woven or bonded, nonwoven fabric along a machine direction supported on a support surface formed with a pattern of raised and lowered areas and solid or void areas interspersed therein; directing a curtain of non-compressible fluid downwardly to impact on the fabric as it is conveyed on the support surface, wherein said fluid curtain is substantially continuous across the fabric, such that a visual property of the fabric become altered in correspondence to the pattern of raised or solid areas and lowered or void areas of the support surface due to the impact of the curtain of fluid on the fabric against the support surface.
1 33~95a - 5(b) -In a further broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning apparatus for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric comprising: a woven or knitted fabric workpiece having a non-colourfast dye component, a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces, hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning method for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric comprising: conveying a woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction, on and in direct contact with a support member, the fabric having a non-colourfast dye component and the support member having a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces, evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
- 5(c) -In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterned woven or knitted fabric comprising dyed yarns selectively faded to form an even and reproducible patterned surface by interaction between an evenly controlled application of a non-compressible fluid under pressure and an underlying patterned backing.
In yet another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning apparatus for producing a visual pattern in a woven fabric comprising: a woven fabric workpiece having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points; a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein; hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
In still another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterning method for producing a visual pattern in a woven fabric comprising: supporting a woven fabric having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points; on and in direct contact with a patterned - 5(d) -support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid and perforated surfaces interspersed therein; conveying said woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction; evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
In still another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a hydropatterned woven fabric comprised of warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points, said fabric being supported on a patterned support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein, said fabric being subjected to treatment by a continuous curtain of liquid extending across the width of the fabric with force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
In another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a method for patterning a woven fabric, said fabric comprising substantially continuous yarns which are .' ~
- 5(e) -interlaced in a repeating configuration and having a left lateral edge, a right lateral edge, and a point therebetween, said method comprising: (a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric; wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises: (i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges; (ii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and (iii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
In still another broad aspect, the present invention relates to a method for patterning a woven fabric, said fabric comprising substantially continuous yarns which are interlaced in a repeating configuration and having a left lateral edge, a right lateral edge, and a point therebetween, said method comprising: (a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric; wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises: (i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges; (ii) at least one stream deviating at an '. k3~
,. ~
- 5(f) -angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and (iii) at least one stream deviating at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
In a further broad aspect, the present invention relates to an apparatus for patterning a textile fabric, said apparatus comprising: (a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including: (i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support; (ii) at least one stream deviating leftward from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and (iii) at least one stream deviating rightward from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
In yet another broad aspect, the present invention relates to an apparatus for patterning a textile fabric, said apparatus comprising: (a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including: (i) at C
,_ ~ 338950 5(g) least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support; (ii) at least one stream deviating leftward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and (iii) at least one stream deviating rightward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
Other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description of the best mode of practising the invention when considered with reference to the drawings, as follows:
Brief Description of the Drawings FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the process steps for hydropatterning fabric in accordance with the invention;
FIG. 2 is a perspective view illustrating one embodiment of hydropatterning apparatus for carrying out the invention;
FIG. 3 is a side schematic view of the hydropatterning apparatus illustrated in FIG. 2;
~C '' 1 338q50 FIG. 4 is a side schematic view of another embodiment of the hydropatterning apparatus;
FIG. 5A is a sectional view showing a planar support surface for hydropatterning fabric which has a pattern of void and solid areas suitable for color washout effects, and FIG. 5B is a sectional view of a drum support surface which has a pattern of domes and depressed areas suitable for fiber displacement effects;
FIGS. 6~ to 6K are photographs of support surface patterns and the resulting dye washout effects obtained in the fabric in accordance with the invention; and FIGS. 7A to 7L are photographs of support surface patterns and the resulting fiber displacement effects obtained in the fabric.
Best Mode Of Carrying Out The Invention The hydropatterning apparatus and related method and products of the invention obtain a controllable and repeatable visual pattern in fabric by the application of a non-caustic fluid under pressure to the fabric carried in contact with a patterned support surface. The invention as described herein applies a continuous curtain of water to obtain a subtractive, color washout effect in dyed woven fabrics, such as in warp dyed denim with indigo dyestuff, and fiber displacement patterns in light density or loosely woven fabrics.
However, it should be understood that the principles of the invention may be applied to other applications besides color washout and fiber displacement, may employ other non-caustic fluids besides water, and may be used with other types of fabrics, including nonwoven fabrics.
1 33~50 Referring to the general process steps of the invention as illustrated in Fig. 1, incoming fabric is subjected to any required pre-treatment, such as dyeing with dyestuff to obtain a base color level. The pre-treated fabric is then subjected to the hydropatterning treatment of the invention at a patterning station, which receives a supply of high pressure water from and returns recovered water to the associated water processing equipment. The patterned fabric from the patterning station is then subjected to any required post-treatment, such as drying under tension on conventional tenter frames, to obtain the final fabric product.
In the following description of one embodiment of the hydropatterning apparatus, a continuous sheet of dyed woven fabric is subjected to hydropatterning treatment to produce a color washout effect. The dyeing of woven fabric is deemed to be well known to those skilled in the art. The type of dyestuff and method of dyeing plays an important role in the patterning effect to be obtained. For dyed denim, indigo dye is preferred for its surface or layered characteristic, i.e. not being fast to washing, which produces patterned effects by the removal of dye from the surface of the yarns in discrete areas. The indigo dye is typically applied by passing yarns from a warp beam through a series of 5 to 8 dye baths to form a number of dye coats on the surface of the fibers.
Referring now to one preferred form of hydropatterning apparatus shown in Fig. 2, the patterning station 10 includes an endless conveyor 24 driven by rollers 26, 28 for advancing the fabric 12 in a machine direction (arrow indicating a downstream `_ 1 338950 direction). Preferred line speeds for the conveyor are in the range of lO to 500 ft/min. The conveyor 24 presents a generally planar support surface 16 in the patterning zone which is formed with a plain weave pattern of solid (or raised) and void (or lowered) areas, e.g. grid, honeycomb, diamond, striated, etc. The fabric is supported in contact with the solid or raised areas of the pattern, while the void areas drain away the water applied to the fabric, as described further below. In the preferred embodiments, the void areas occupy approximately 25 percent of the overall pattern area.
The fabric 12 in Fig. 2 has a different cross-hatching at the exit end 42 from the incoming fabric at the entry end 3~ to indicate that it has been altered by the hydropatterning process.
Mounted above the conveyor 24 is an arrangement of manifolds 30 spaced apart in parallel and aligned in a cross direction of the fabric which is perpendicular to the machine direction. The manifolds 30 are spaced approximately 4 inches apart, and are positioned at least l.O inch, and preferably in the range of 1 to lO
inches above the conveyor. Each manifold has a row of water jet nozzles 36, spaced along the cross direction, which ejects a divergent fan jet 34 of water downwardly on the fabric 12. The fan jets 34 overlap to form a continuous curtain 40 of water which impacts substantially evenly across- the width of the fabric. This produces an even pressure of water on the fabric against the patterned support surface in order to avoid streaking or otherwise uneven patterning.
The manifolds are designed to deliver fluid pressures to the -nozzles 36 in the range of 200 to 2500 psi. The nozzles of the manifold are spaced approximately 1 inch apart and are positioned 1 to 10 inches above the conveyor 24. The fan jets 34 diverge in a fan-shape having an angle of divergence in the cross direction relative to the nozzle axis which is perpendicular to the conveyor surface. The angle of divergence may be from 2 to 45 degrees, and experimentation has shown that a divergence angle of about 18 degrees yields an optimum fan shape and an even curtain of water pressure.
The output energy of the curtain of water is preferably in the range of 0.4 to 2.0 hp-hr/sq-yd of fabric, and particularly 1.0 hp-hr/sq-yd. In the case of heavier fabrics such as denim, the energy applied to the surface of the fabric may be a surface effect and therefore independent of weight.
Preferred nozzles for use in the invention are of the type manufactured by Spraying Systems Co., distributed by J.~. Snowden &
Associates, Manchester, New llampsire, under product designation 0503-TC. This nozzle has a tungsten carbide spray tip which has been found effective for providing regulated pressure sprays. The ejection orifices in the nozzle have a non-circular shaped configuration. The preferred nozzle has an effective diameter of about 0.43 inches and flow rate of 1.5 gallons/min with an effective jet spray angle of approximately 18 degrees and 1000 psi.
As shown in Fig. 3, as the fabric is moved on the conveyor 24 through the series of water curtains 40, the water impacts on the fabric against the raised or solid areas of the patterned support surface. It is found that a dye which lacks a certain degree of -color fastness, such as indigo dye, will wash out from the fabric in the raised or solid areas at least partially under the pressure of the water curtains. The water and carried-away dye is drained through the void areas of the support surface to a collecting tank 50 below the conveyor 24. A filter 52 is provided to remove dislodged fibers and other debris, and a recirculating pump 54 returns the water under pressure to the manifolds 30. The washed out dye may be removed by the use of settling tanks.
A preferred conveyor structure is shown in Fig. 4 employing a cylindrical or drum conveyor 24 and patterned support surface 60.
The manifolds 30 are arranged in close proximity at the upper part of the circumference of the support member. In its other aspects, the operation of this embodiment is similar to the first described embodiment, although the drum conveyor is found to provide preferred results. The water processing equipment in this embodiment includes a filtration system of the type manufactured by Dore Oliver Inc., Stamford, Connecticut, under product designation 120 DSM Screen. The DSM system has a dispensing nozzle 64 and filter screen 66 which directs fiber debris into discharge receptacle 70, while the filtered fluid is diverted to be recirculated through pump 72. A settling tank is used for dyestuff recovery, although it is not shown in the drawing.
In Fig. 5A, a side sectional view illustrates the washout patterning function of the water curtains 40 impacting downward on the fabric 12 carried on the support surface 16 (60). The support surface has a pattern of solid areas 16a and void areas 16b, such as may be produced by a honeycomb or evenly perforated pattern in a screen. The pressure of the water jets presses the fabric 12 against the support surface so that portions of it are supported on the solid areas 16a and other portions are depressed into the void areas 16b. It is found that, for a dyed fabric, the dye tends to wash out from the raised portions supported on the solid areas 16a, and to drain into and to be retained in the depressed portions in the void areas 16b, thereby producing a color washout pattern corresponding to the pattern of the support surface.
In Figs. 6A to 6K, examples of several patterned support surfaces and the resulting pattern effect obtained on the fabric are shown. Generally, the support surface is formed out of fine wire mesh in which raised areas are formed in a repeating pattern, or from a metal plate in which void areas are perforated. In Fig. 6A the support surface was a perforated metal plate with round void areas, and the resulting fabric is shown in Fig. 6B having a stippled washout effect. The support surface in Fig. 6C is a wire mesh embossed with a repeating flower pattern, and the resulting patterned fabric is shown in Fig. 6D. The wire mesh employed a basket weave embossing in Fig. 6E, with the result in Fig. 6F, a plaid embossing in Fig. 6G, with the result in Fig. 6H, a lines/dots embossing in Fig. 6I, with the result in Fig. 6J. The patterned result of a wire mesh drum embossed with a honeycomb pattern is shown in Fig. 6K.
Besides retaining the washout pattern, the resulting fabrics can also retain a three-dimensional embossed effect corresponding to 1 33~950 - the pattern of the support surface due to the pressure of the water at the hydropatterning station forcing the fabric into the open areas of the screen or plate. The patterned fabrics may be treated with sizing or other stiffeners or heat setting to make the embossed effect more permanent. The embossed effect can be obtained alone, without the washout effect, by using dyestuff which is more color fast than indigo or other vat dyes.
In Fig. 5B, a side sectional view illustrates the fiber displacement patterning function of the water curtains 40 impacting downward on the fabric 12 carried on the drum support surface 16 (60). The drum support surface has a three-dimensionally embossed or woven relief pattern of raised or embossed areas 16a, such as in the shape of domes, and void areas 16b. The pressure of the water jets presses the fabric 12 against the support surface so that portions of it are forced against the domed areas 16a and other portions are depressed into the lowered or void areas 16b. The drum support surface is preferred for both color washout and fiber displacement effects. It is found that, for light density or loosely woven fabrics, the fibers are displaced by the action of the water and become entangled together at crossover points. The yarns are thus locked together, creating open areas or lace-like fabric with good cohesion and stability. The fabric also exhlbits yood drape and hand, because it is such an open fabric, yet has limited yarn slippage due to the locking together of the fibers during hydropatterning. The patterning is most effective in lightweight fabrics with fine to moderate size yarns. Such patterns can include 133g950 ribbing, wavy lines, checkering, geometric or floral designs, or lacework effects. The use of higher energy water curtains or treating the patterned fabrics with sizing can make the displacement effect more permanent.
Figs. 7A to 7L show samples of the displacement patterns obtained in fabrics with different patterned screens. In Fig. 7A, a blouse fabric made of polyester/rayon, having filament warp yarns of 76 ends/inch in the warp (machine) direction, and spun fill of 31 picks/inch in the cross direction, is patterned using the flower patterned screen shown in Fig. 7B. The photomicrograph of Fig. 7C
shows a magnified view (16x~ of the yarn displacement obtained. In Fig. 7D, a shirt fabric o~ 100~ cotton, of 76 ends/inch by 68 picks/inch, is patterned using the woven mesh (20x20/inch) screen shown in Fig. 7E, with the displacement result shown magnified (16x) in Fig. 7F. In Fig. 7G, a seeded batiste fabric, composed of 92%
polyester and 8% cotton fibers, of 90 ends/inch by 44 picks/inch, is obtained usinq the wavy lines/dots screen shown in Fig. 7~, with the displacement result shown magnified (16x) in Fig. 7I. Fig. 7J
further shows the blouse fabric patterned with the wavy lines/dots screen of Fig. 7H, with the fiber displacement result shown magnified (16x) in Fig. 7K and (l~x) in Fig. 7L.
Thus, the invention provides a method and apparatus for patterning fabrics by the use of one or more water curtains under pressure against a patterned screen. The pattern can be regularly repeated in the fabric and controlled for the desir~d effect. A wide range of patterned designs and visual effects can be obtained. The hydropatterning technique of the invention produces minimal wear and tear on the process equipment and on the fabric being processed.
Furthermore, the production of caustic or chemical wastes is minimized, thereby lessening the impact of such fabric treatment processes on the environment.
A wide range of other patterning effects can be achieved by using different dyes, colors, dyeing processes, water curtain configurations, screen patterns, fabrics, and fabric weaves. The water curtain can be generated by other types and arrangements of nozzles and pressure manifolds. Woven, perforated, or expanded metal or plastic screens or other three-dimensional screens with raised and lowered areas can be used for the support surface to achieve the patterned effect. The hydrojet processing of the fabric can also employ additives, such as caustic agents and abrasives, if desired, and other types of fluids. Besides woven fabrics, other nonwoven, bonded, layered, gauze, or composite fabrics or laminates may be similarly hydropatterned in accordance with the principles of the invention. Other variations of structures, materials, products, and processes may be devised, which are nevertheless considered to be within the spirit and scope of the present invention, as defined in the claims appended hereto.
Claims (63)
1. A hydropatterning apparatus for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric comprising:
a woven or knitted fabric workpiece having a non-colourfast dye component;
a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces, hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
a woven or knitted fabric workpiece having a non-colourfast dye component;
a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces, hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
2. A hydropatterning method for producing a colour washout pattern in a woven or knitted fabric comprising:
conveying a woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction, on and in direct contact with a support member, the fabric having a non-colourfast dye component and the support member having a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces;
evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
conveying a woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction, on and in direct contact with a support member, the fabric having a non-colourfast dye component and the support member having a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces;
evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of fluid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having sufficient force and coverage to selectively remove dye from the fabric in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member.
3. A hydropatterned woven or knitted fabric comprising dyed yarns selectively faded to form an even and reproducible patterned surface by interaction between an evenly controlled application of a non-compressible fluid under pressure and an underlying patterned backing.
4. An apparatus according to Claim 1, wherein the non-compressible fluid is a non-caustic liquid.
5. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the non-compressible fluid is a non-caustic liquid.
6. A fabric according to Claim 3, wherein the non-compressible fluid is a non-caustic liquid.
7. An apparatus according to Claim 4, wherein the non-caustic liquid is water.
8. A method according to Claim 5, wherein the non-caustic liquid is water.
9. A fabric according to Claim 6, wherein the non-caustic liquid is water.
10. An apparatus according to Claim 1, wherein the fabric is denim.
11. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the fabric is denim.
12. A fabric according to Claim 3 which is a dyed denim.
13. An apparatus according to Claim 1, wherein the dye is indigo.
14. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the dye is indigo.
15. A fabric according to Claim 3, wherein the dye is indigo.
16. An apparatus according to Claim 1, wherein the hydrojet means is an array of manifolds fitted with high pressure fluid jets.
17. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the fabric is impacted with a plurality of continuous curtains provided by an array of manifolds fitted with high pressure fluid jets.
18. An apparatus according to Claim 16, wherein the jets are overlapping divergent fan jets.
19. A method according to Claim 17, wherein the jets are overlapping divergent fan jets.
20. An apparatus according to Claim 16, wherein the jets are columnar jets.
21. A method according to Claim 17, wherein the jets are columnar jets.
22. An apparatus according to Claim 1, wherein the support member is perforated.
23. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the support member is perforated.
24. An apparatus according to Claim 1, wherein the support member is a fine wire mesh.
25. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the support member is a fine wire mesh.
26. An apparatus according to Claim 16, wherein the carrying speed is from 10 to 500 fpm and the jet pressure is from 200 to 2500 psi.
27. A method according to Claim 17, wherein the carrying speed is from 10 to 500 fpm and the jet pressure is from 200 to 2500 psi.
28. An apparatus according to Claim 26, wherein the carrying speed is approximately 60 fpm and the jet pressure is approximately 1000 psi.
29. A method according to Claim 27, wherein the carrying speed is approximately 60 fpm and the jet pressure is approximately 1000 psi.
30. An apparatus according to Claim 18, wherein the fan jets have a divergence angle of about 18 degrees.
31. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the fabric is a light density or loosely woven or knit fabric.
32. A method according to Claim 31, wherein the yarns of the fabric are displaced in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface.
33. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the fabric is non-colourfast, and a visual property of the fabric is altered by selective colour washout in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface.
34. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the fabric is embossed in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface.
35. A method according to Claim 33, wherein the fabric is embossed in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface.
36. A method according to Claim 34, wherein the embossed fabric is post-treated to at least one of a sizing, a stiffener, or a heat setting treatment.
37. A method according to Claim 2, wherein the fabric is embossed in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface.
38. A hydropatterning apparatus for producing a visual pattern in a woven fabric comprising:
a woven fabric workpiece having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points;
a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein;
hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
a woven fabric workpiece having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points;
a conveyor for carrying the fabric in a machine direction, the conveyor including a support member maintained in direct contact with the fabric and formed with a patterned surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein;
hydrojet means for evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
39. A hydropatterning method for producing a visual pattern in a woven fabric comprising:
supporting a woven fabric having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points; on and in direct contact with a patterned support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid and perforated surfaces interspersed therein;
conveying said woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction;
evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
supporting a woven fabric having warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points; on and in direct contact with a patterned support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid and perforated surfaces interspersed therein;
conveying said woven or knitted fabric in a machine direction;
evenly impacting the fabric with a continuous curtain of liquid extending in a cross direction with respect to the machine direction, and having force and coverage effective to raise fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
40. A hydropatterned woven fabric comprised of warp yarns and fill yarns which intersect at crossover points, said fabric being supported on a patterned support surface of raised and lowered areas having solid or perforated surfaces interspersed therein, said fabric being subjected to treatment by a continuous curtain of liquid extending across the width of the fabric with force and coverage effective to raise the fibres in said warp and fill yarns, to displace said yarns in correspondence with the patterned surface of the support member, and to cause entanglement of adjacent yarns at said crossover points.
41. An apparatus according to Claim 38, wherein the hydrojet means comprise an array of manifolds fitted with high pressure fluid jets.
42. A method according to Claim 39, wherein the fabric is impacted with a plurality of continuous liquid curtains by an array of manifolds fitted with high pressure fluid jets.
43. An apparatus according to Claim 38, wherein the hydrojet means comprise overlapping divergent fan jets.
44. A method according to Claim 39, wherein the continuous curtain of liquid is formed by overlapping divergent fan jets.
45. An apparatus according to Claim 38, wherein the hydrojet means comprise columnar jets.
46. A method according to Claim 39, wherein the continuous curtain of liquid is formed by columnar jets.
47. An apparatus according to Claim 38, wherein the support member is perforated.
48. A method according to Claim 39, wherein the support member is perforated.
49. A hydropatterned woven or knitted fabric wherein the fabric is a light density or loosely woven fabric.
50. A method according to Claim 39, wherein the fabric is embossed in correspondence to the pattern of the support surface.
51. A method for patterning a woven fabric, said fabric comprising substantially continuous yarns which are interlaced in a repeating configuration and having a left lateral edge, a right lateral edge, and a point therebetween, said method comprising:
(a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric;
wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges;
ii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and iii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
(a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric;
wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges;
ii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and iii) at least one stream deviating from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
52. A method for patterning a woven fabric, said fabric comprising substantially continuous yarns which are interlaced in a repeating configuration and having a left lateral edge, a right lateral edge, and a point therebetween, said method comprising:
(a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric;
wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges;
ii) at least one stream deviating at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and iii) at least one stream deviating at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
(a) placing said fabric against a support member; and (b) directing a plurality of divergent fluid streams towards the surface of said fabric;
wherein said plurality of divergent streams comprises:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said fabric surface and to said point between said lateral edges;
ii) at least one stream deviating at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said left lateral edge; and iii) at least one stream deviating at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream and directed toward said right lateral edge.
53. A method as defined in Claim 51, wherein said yarns comprise fibres.
54. A method as defined in Claim 51, wherein said support member comprises a conveyor.
55. A method as defined in Claim 54, wherein said conveyor conveys said fabric along a machine direction.
56. A method as defined in Claim 55, wherein said machine direction is parallel to a lateral edge of said fabric.
57. A method as defined in Claim 51, wherein said support member comprises a cylindrical drum.
58. A method as defined in Claim 51, wherein said streams emanate from a hydrojet means.
59. A method as defined in Claim 58, wherein said hydrojet means comprises a manifold.
60. A method as defined in Claim 51, wherein said fluid comprises water.
61. A method as defined in Claim 52, wherein said angle of deviation of said stream deviating toward said left lateral edge is 18 degrees and said angle of deviation of said stream deviating toward said right lateral edge is 18 degrees.
62. An apparatus for patterning a textile fabric, said apparatus comprising:
(a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support;
ii) at least one stream deviating leftward from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and iii) at least one stream deviating rightward from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
(a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support;
ii) at least one stream deviating leftward from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and iii) at least one stream deviating rightward from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
63. An apparatus for patterning a textile fabric, said apparatus comprising:
(a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support;
ii) at least one stream deviating leftward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and iii) at least one stream deviating rightward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
(a) a support member having a longitudinal axis, a right outer lateral edge, a left outer lateral edge, and a point therebetween; and (b) hydrojet means mounted on said support, said hydrojet means comprising a plurality of fluid streams including:
i) at least one stream directed perpendicularly to said longitudinal axis of said support;
ii) at least one stream deviating leftward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream; and iii) at least one stream deviating rightward at an angle ranging from 2 to 45 degrees from the direction of said perpendicular stream.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000616914A CA1338950C (en) | 1988-04-14 | 1994-09-12 | Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US181,284 | 1988-04-14 | ||
| US07/181,284 US4960630A (en) | 1988-04-14 | 1988-04-14 | Apparatus for producing symmetrical fluid entangled non-woven fabrics and related method |
| CA 596622 CA1333000C (en) | 1988-04-14 | 1989-04-13 | Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric |
| CA000616914A CA1338950C (en) | 1988-04-14 | 1994-09-12 | Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric |
Related Parent Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA 596622 Division CA1333000C (en) | 1988-04-14 | 1989-04-13 | Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1338950C true CA1338950C (en) | 1997-03-04 |
Family
ID=25672611
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000616914A Expired - Fee Related CA1338950C (en) | 1988-04-14 | 1994-09-12 | Apparatus and method for hydropatterning fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CA (1) | CA1338950C (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP3690098A1 (en) * | 2019-01-30 | 2020-08-05 | Tessitura Clara S.r.l. | Denim fabric and method for making said fabric |
-
1994
- 1994-09-12 CA CA000616914A patent/CA1338950C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP3690098A1 (en) * | 2019-01-30 | 2020-08-05 | Tessitura Clara S.r.l. | Denim fabric and method for making said fabric |
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