EP3644957A1 - Dispersions comprenant au moins une huile non volatile hydrocarbonée - Google Patents
Dispersions comprenant au moins une huile non volatile hydrocarbonéeInfo
- Publication number
- EP3644957A1 EP3644957A1 EP18734218.3A EP18734218A EP3644957A1 EP 3644957 A1 EP3644957 A1 EP 3644957A1 EP 18734218 A EP18734218 A EP 18734218A EP 3644957 A1 EP3644957 A1 EP 3644957A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- drops
- oil
- fatty
- dispersion
- phase
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Classifications
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
- B01J13/00—Colloid chemistry, e.g. the production of colloidal materials or their solutions, not otherwise provided for; Making microcapsules or microballoons
- B01J13/02—Making microcapsules or microballoons
- B01J13/06—Making microcapsules or microballoons by phase separation
- B01J13/10—Complex coacervation, i.e. interaction of oppositely charged particles
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
- B01J13/00—Colloid chemistry, e.g. the production of colloidal materials or their solutions, not otherwise provided for; Making microcapsules or microballoons
- B01J13/0052—Preparation of gels
- B01J13/0065—Preparation of gels containing an organic phase
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
- B01J13/00—Colloid chemistry, e.g. the production of colloidal materials or their solutions, not otherwise provided for; Making microcapsules or microballoons
- B01J13/02—Making microcapsules or microballoons
- B01J13/06—Making microcapsules or microballoons by phase separation
- B01J13/14—Polymerisation; cross-linking
- B01J13/16—Interfacial polymerisation
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates to stable dispersions comprising macroscopic drops of a dispersed fatty phase comprising at least one gelling agent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. It also relates to compositions, in particular cosmetics, containing said dispersions and their uses in the cosmetic field.
- compositions having a differentiating and attractive visual and a novel sensoriality which constitutes an alternative to conventional classically white emulsions and comprising dispersed phase drops not visible to the naked eye. .
- Dispersions of macroscopic drops of this type have low mechanical strengths, which can lead to shearing or fragmentation of the drops during transport.
- airless packaging it is known to implement these dispersions in packaging requiring a specific atmosphere without air (so-called “airless packaging”), which restricts their use.
- the application WO 2017/046305 describes the addition in the dispersed fatty phase of at least one gelling agent, which makes it possible to obtain stable dispersions having high mechanical strengths, enabling them to withstand shearing or fragmentation of macroscopic drops during transport.
- a disadvantage sometimes observed in macroscopic dispersions according to WO 2017/046305 is an opacification of the continuous aqueous phase and / or an adhesion of the drops between them and / or on the walls of the packaging. This last phenomenon is more or less exacerbated depending on the nature of the packaging. Without wishing to be bound to any theory, the Applicant assumes that the opacification is associated with leakage of oil (s) and / or agent (s) gelling (s) from the dispersed phase to the continuous aqueous phase.
- the encapsulation is precisely to preserve the integrity of the encapsulated asset, or even to implement within the same composition incompatible assets between them while giving a visual differentiating and attractive to consumers.
- the change in the size distribution of the drops and the presence of agglomerates can lead to variable drop densities, and therefore to an inhomogeneous dose distribution.
- the object of the present invention is therefore to provide stable dispersions of macroscopic drops in which the phenomena of opacification of the aqueous continuous phase and / or of adhesion of the drops to the walls of the packaging and / or aggregation of the drops between them. are reduced or even overcome.
- Another object of the invention is to provide a stable dispersion of macroscopic drops to prevent / prevent leakage of oil (s) and / or agent (s) gelling (s) or encapsulated asset (s) (s) from the dispersed phase to the continuous aqueous phase, thus preserving the integrity of said active agents and / or said drops and thus the stability over time of said dispersion.
- the present invention relates to a dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in which the drops comprise a fatty phase containing at least one gelling agent, and wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 containing more than 90%, preferably more than 95%, of fatty acids having at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably at least 20 carbon atoms.
- the dispersion of the invention has the advantage of being stable, especially over time and during transport.
- the term “stable” is intended to denote the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the droplets of disperse phase in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the aqueous continuous phase, the absence of aggregation of the drops together, and in particular the absence of Oswald coalescence or ripening of the drops between them, and the absence of leakage of materials from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa.
- the use of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil as mentioned above in a dispersion according to the invention makes it possible to reduce, or even prevent, the phenomenon of opacification of the continuous aqueous phase, leakage of materials, in particular oil (s) and / or gelling agent (s), from the dispersed phase to the continuous aqueous phase, the adhesion of the drops to the walls of the packaging, and / or the aggregation of drops between them. This makes it possible to preserve or even improve the visual and the stability over time of a dispersion according to the invention.
- the drops of the dispersion of the invention are macroscopic drops, that is to say that said drops are visible to the naked eye, as opposed to microscopic drops not visible to the naked eye.
- drops have an average diameter D greater than or equal to 100 ⁇ m, even greater than or equal to 200 ⁇ m, better than or equal to 300 ⁇ m, in particular greater than or equal to 400 ⁇ m, preferably greater than or equal to 500 ⁇ m; , even greater than or equal to 1,000 ⁇ , or even between 100 ⁇ and 3,000 ⁇ , better still between 200 ⁇ and 2,000 ⁇ , in particular between 300 ⁇ and 1,000 ⁇ , better still between 500 ⁇ and 3,000 ⁇ , preferably between 1,000 ⁇ and 2,000 ⁇ , in particular between 800 ⁇ and 1,500 ⁇ .
- the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 ⁇ , or even greater than or equal to 200 ⁇ , better than or equal to 300 ⁇ , in particular greater than or equal to 400 ⁇ , preferably greater than or equal to 500 ⁇ , or even greater than or equal to 1,000 ⁇ , or even between 100 ⁇ and 3,000 ⁇ , better still between 200 ⁇ and 2,000 ⁇ , in particular between 300 ⁇ and 1,000 ⁇ , better still between 500 ⁇ and 3,000 ⁇ .
- ⁇ preferably between 1,000 ⁇ and 2,000 ⁇ , in particular between 800 ⁇ and 1,500 ⁇ , represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to at 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase.
- dispersions may be denoted by the term "emulsions”.
- the drops advantageously have an apparent monodispersity (ie they are perceived by the eye as identical spheres in diameter).
- the drops are advantageously substantially spherical.
- the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary considerably, which thus makes it possible to obtain varied textures.
- a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better still from 400 mPa.s to 100 mPa.s. 000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 1000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
- the viscosity is measured at ambient temperature and at ambient pressure by the method described in WO2017046305.
- the dispersions according to the invention comprise an aqueous continuous phase, preferably in the form of a gel.
- the continuous phase is not solid at ambient temperature and at ambient pressure, that is to say that it is able to flow under its own weight.
- the aqueous phase has a viscosity of between 400 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s, preferably between 800 mPa.s and 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
- the continuous phase of the dispersions comprises water.
- water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.
- the mass percentage of water of the aqueous continuous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60%. %, especially between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous phase.
- the continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one base. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. The presence of at least one base in said aqueous continuous phase contributes in particular to enhance the viscosity of the latter.
- the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base.
- the mineral base is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
- the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and especially NaOH.
- the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base.
- organic bases mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or else triethylamine.
- a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight of base, preferably from mineral base, and especially NaOH, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- the dispersions according to the invention do not comprise a surfactant. According to one embodiment, the dispersions according to the invention do not comprise glyceryl trioctanoate, tricaprylate / glycerol caprate, and their mixture.
- the drops of a dispersion according to the invention are devoid of bark or membrane, in particular of polymeric membrane or formed by interfacial polymerization.
- the drops of a dispersion according to the invention are not stabilized using a coacervate membrane (anionic polymer type (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone)).
- the contact between the aqueous continuous phase and the dispersed fatty phase is direct.
- the drops of the dispersed phase further comprise a bark.
- this bark comprises at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.
- the drops according to the invention are surrounded by a shell (or membrane) comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.
- the drops obtained may have a very thin bark, in particular of thickness less than 1% of the diameter of the drops.
- the thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 ⁇ and is therefore too small to be measured by optical methods.
- the thickness of the bark of the drops is less than 1000 nm, especially between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, and preferably less than 10 nm.
- the measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the small angle neutron scattering (Small-Angle X-Ray Scattering) method, as implemented in Sato et al. J. Chem. Phys. 1 1 1, 1393-1401 (2007).
- the drops are produced using deuterated water and are then washed three times with a deuterated oil, such as, for example, a deuterated hydrocarbon-type oil (octane, dodecane, hexadecane).
- a deuterated oil such as, for example, a deuterated hydrocarbon-type oil (octane, dodecane, hexadecane).
- the drops are then transferred to the Neutrons cell to determine the l (q) spectrum; q being the wave vector. From this spectrum, classical analytical treatments (REF) are applied to determine the thickness of the hydrogenated (undeuterated) bark.
- REF classical analytical treatments
- the bark surrounding the drops of the dispersed phase is stiffened, which in particular gives good resistance to drops and reduces or even prevents their coalescence.
- This bark is typically formed by coacervation, i.e. precipitation of charged polymers of opposite charges.
- coacervation i.e. precipitation of charged polymers of opposite charges.
- bonds binding the charged polymers to each other are of ionic type, and are generally stronger than bonds present within a surfactant-type membrane.
- the bark is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of the type anionic. These two polymers act as stiffening agents for the membrane.
- the formation of the coacervate between these two polymers can be caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reagents, etc.).
- the coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.
- the membrane thus formed around each drop typically forms a bark which completely encapsulates the heart of the drop, and thus isolates the heart of the drop from the continuous aqueous phase.
- anionic type polymer or "anionic polymer” a polymer having anionic type chemical functions. We can also speak of anionic polyelectrolyte.
- chemical function of the anionic refers to a chemical function AH capable of donating a proton to give a function A ". According to the environmental conditions in which it is located, the anionic polymer therefore contains chemical functions as AH, or in the form of its conjugate base A " .
- anionic chemical functions mention may be made of the carboxylic acid functions -COOH, optionally present in the form of carboxylate anion -COO - .
- anionic type polymer there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions.
- Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be anionic polymer comprising monomeric units comprising at least one chemical function of carboxylic acid type.
- the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water.
- anionic polymer suitable for carrying out the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide or alkyl acrylates. , C 5 -C 8 alkyl acrylates, C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates, C 12 -C 22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates , and their mixtures.
- an anionic polymer is preferably a carbomer as described below.
- This polymer can also be a copolymer crosslinked acrylates / Ci-30 alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / C1-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer).
- the bark of the drops comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer.
- carbomer means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) optionally crosslinked.
- carbomers of the invention mention may be made of those sold under the trade names Tego ® Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol ® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.
- it is the Carbopol ® 910, Carbopol 934 ®, Carbopol ® 934P, Carbopol 940 ®, Carbopol ® 941, Carbopol ® 71 G, carbopol ® 980, Carbopol ® 971 P or Carbopol ® 974P.
- the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.
- the carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
- a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferentially from 0.10% to 0.5%, of anionic polymer (s) ( s), especially carbomer (s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- the dispersions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked acrylates / C 10 -3 alkyl acrylate copolymer.
- the aqueous phase according to the invention may also comprise at least one crosslinked polymer or at least one crosslinked copolymer, said crosslinked polymer or crosslinked copolymer comprising at least one unit derived from the polymerization of one of the following monomers: acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylate or alkyl methacrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or their salts.
- a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one perfuming agent as defined below.
- the aqueous phase may also comprise a mixture of crosslinked polymers or a mixture of crosslinked copolymers or a mixture of crosslinked polymer (s) and crosslinked copolymer (s).
- unit derived from the polymerization of a monomer means that the polymer or copolymer is a polymer or copolymer obtained by polymerization or copolymer of said monomer.
- the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer is a crosslinked polyacrylate.
- crosslinked copolymers and polymers of the invention are anionic.
- the copolymer is a copolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid and unsaturated carboxylate of C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
- Such a copolymer comprises at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C -C 30) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
- R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester type (C1-C30) ) unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the following monomer of formula (II):
- R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units), R 3 denoting a C 1 -C 30 , and preferably dC 4, alkyl radical.
- crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth) acrylate, (meth) ) allyl acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, and castor oil.
- a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth) acrylate, (meth) ) allyl acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, m
- the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer is a polymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and / or of alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and / or alkyl methacrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- the crosslinked copolymer is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms.
- crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms a crosslinked copolymer resulting from the polymerization of a monomer of methacrylic acid and an alkyl acrylate monomer comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- the methacrylic acid is from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the copolymer.
- the alkyl acrylate is from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the copolymer.
- the alkyl acrylate is chosen from alkyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate.
- the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer according to the invention present in the continuous aqueous phase, is chosen from the group consisting of the following polymers or copolymers: Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates crosspolymer-4, Acrylates crosspolymer-3, Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer and Polyacrylate-14 (INCI names).
- the crosslinked copolymer is chosen from crosslinked copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylates comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- the dispersion of the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 3% by weight of polymer ( s) crosslinked (s) or copolymer (s) crosslinked (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops further comprise a cationic type polymer. They may also include several cationic polymers. This cationic polymer is the one mentioned above which forms the bark by coacervation with the anionic polymer.
- cationic polymer or cationic polymer means a polymer having chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of cationic polyelectrolyte.
- the cationic polymer is lipophilic or fat-soluble.
- chemical function of cationic type means a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a function BH + .
- the cationic type polymer therefore has chemical functions in B form, or in BH + form, its conjugated acid.
- a cationic type polymer there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers, at least a part of which carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.
- Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
- cationic polymers suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may be made of amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.
- amodimethicone derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.
- amodimethicone derivatives for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers containing amine functions.
- the bis-isobutyl copolymer PEG-14 / amodimethicone, Bis (C 13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone may be mentioned.
- polysaccharide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).
- polypeptide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.
- polyethyleneimine polymers comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.
- the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops comprise a cationic polymer which is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.
- the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops comprise amodimethicone.
- the cationic polymer has the following formula:
- RR 2 and R 3 independently of each other, represent OH or CH 3 ;
- R 4 represents a -CH 2 - group or a -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C 3 or C 4 alkylene radical;
- x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and more preferably between 80 and 300;
- y is an integer between 1 and 1000, in particular between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and more preferably between 5 and 20; and z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and more preferably equal to 1.
- R 1, R 2 and R 3 are preferably CH 3 .
- R 4 is preferably - (CH 2 ) 3 -NH-.
- each drop may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, by weight of cationic polymer (s), in particular amodimethicone (s), by ratio to the total weight of the fat phase.
- s cationic polymer
- s amodimethicone
- the dispersions comprise a dispersed fatty phase, in the form of drops, comprising at least one gelling agent.
- the present invention is based on the presence, at the level of the dispersed fatty phase, of at least one gelling agent.
- a gelling agent is different from the anionic and cationic polymers described above.
- the term “gelling agent” means an agent for increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase of the drops of the dispersion free of said gelling agent, and to reach a final viscosity.
- the gelled fatty phase greater than 20,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 50,000 mPa.s, better still greater than 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly greater than 200,000 mPa.s.
- the viscosity of the fatty phase of the drops of the dispersion in the presence of said gelling agent is between 20,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 50,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 100,000. at 500,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C.
- the choice of agent (s) gelling (s) takes place especially with regard to the nature of the dispersed phase.
- the gelling agent is lipophilic.
- the gelling agent is chosen from organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; solid fatty substances at room temperature and pressure; and mixtures thereof, especially chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof.
- the gelling agents that may be used according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.
- inorganic lipophilic gelling agents there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example , that sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by Elementis.
- optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example , that sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by Elementis.
- hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride also known as quaternium-18 bentonite, such as the products sold or manufactured under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 marketed or manufactured by Southern Clay, modified clays known as benzalkonium and quaternium-18 bentonites and marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by Southern Clay, chloride-modified clays stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium compounds, known as steralkonium bentonites, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 sold or manufactured by Rheox.
- quaternium-18 bentonite such as the products sold or manufactured under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 marketed or manufactured by Southern Clay
- fumed silica optionally treated with hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ . It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
- hydrophobic groups can be:
- Silicas thus treated are named "Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8 th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812 ® by Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® by the company Cabot; or
- silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972 ® , and Aerosil R974 ® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-61 0 ® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ® by CABOT.
- the hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
- the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example elastomeric organopolysiloxanes partially or totally crosslinked, three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6 ®, KSG1 6 ® and KSG18 ® by the company SH IN-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ® and Trefil E-506C ® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC ® , SR DMF10 ® , SR-DC556 ® , SR 5CYC gel ® , SR DMF 10 gel ® and SR DC 556 gel ® by the GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ® and JK 1 1 3 ® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethyl cellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel ® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six, particularly two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated alkyl chain or not,
- Block copolymers of "diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB ® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) such as those marketed under the trademark Kraton ® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene), triblock and radial copolymers of the mixtures (star) in isododecane such as those sold by the PENRECO company under the name Versagel ® such as the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
- the gelling agents that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters and fatty acid (s), in particular esters of dextrin and fatty acid (s), esters of glycerol and fatty acid (s) or esters of inulin and 'Fatty acids ; polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
- Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO 02/056847, WO 02/47619, in particular the resins of polyamides (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US 5783657.
- polyorganosiloxane type silicone polyamides such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,874,069, US Pat. No. 5,919,441, US Pat. No. 6,051,216 and US Pat. No. 5,981,680.
- silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:
- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or
- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
- the ester of dextrin and fatty acid (s) according to the invention is a dextrin mono- or poly-ester and of at least one fatty acid corresponding to the following formula (II):
- n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50,
- radicals R 4, R 5 and R 6, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group -COR a in which the radical R a represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 5 to 50, preferably 5 to 25 carbon atoms,
- R 4 1 R 5 and R 6 represent, independently of each other, H or an acyl group -COR a in which R a is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals R 4, R 5 or R 6 are identical and different from hydrogen.
- radicals R 4, R 5 and R 6 which are identical or different, represent a radical -COR a
- these can be chosen from the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl and eicosanyl.
- docosanoyl isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl , sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and mixtures thereof.
- esters of dextrin and fatty acid mention may be made, for example, of dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates and mixtures thereof.
- esters of dextrin and of fatty acid (s) marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name myristate dextrin) by Miyoshi Europe.
- Rheopearl® KL2 INCI name: dextrin palmitate
- Rheopearl® TT2 INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate
- Rheopearl® MKL2 Iyoshi Europe.
- inulin esters and acid (s) fat under the names Rheopearl ® ISK2 or Rheopearl ® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe.
- the gelling agent is chosen from polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C 1 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (s), preferably of C 14 -C 24 alkyl acrylate (s), and even more preferably acrylate (s) alkyl 8 -C 22.
- the polyacrylates are polymers of acrylic acid esterified with a fatty alcohol whose saturated carbon chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, or a mixture of said fatty alcohols .
- the fatty alcohol comprises 18 carbon atoms or 22 carbon atoms.
- the polyacrylates there may be mentioned more particularly stearyl polyacrylate, behenyl polyacrylate.
- the gelling agent is stearyl polyacrylate or behenyl polyacrylate.
- Interlimer® ICI name: Poly CiOC 30 alkyl acrylate
- the gelling agent is an ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s), in particular a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s).
- said ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) may be used alone or as a mixture.
- it may be a glycerol ester and a fatty acid or a glycerol ester and a mixture of fatty acids.
- the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) has the following formula (III): in which: R 1; R 2 and R 3 are, independently of one another, selected from H and a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R 1, R 2 and R 3 being different from H. According to one embodiment, R 1; R 2 and R 3 are different.
- R 1; R 2 and / or R 3 represents a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30, preferably from 12 to 22, and preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.
- esters of glycerol and of fatty acid (s) marketed under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate / eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), by the Nisshin Oillio company.
- the term "wax” means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C.
- the waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention may be chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.
- waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
- hydrogenated jojoba oil hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil
- di-tetrastearate trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane
- HEST 2T-4S di-tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S” by the company HETERENE
- di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.
- waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73 ® ® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in the application FR2792190.
- silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.
- the silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C 2 o C 6 o) alkyldimethicones , in particular the (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.
- alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C 2 o C 6 o) alkyldimethicones , in particular the (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer
- hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen.
- the waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.
- the term “butter” (also referred to as “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a change of state. solid / liquid reversible and having at the temperature of 25 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
- the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C.
- the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C. may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
- the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C.
- the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
- the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.
- the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999.
- the melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .
- DSC differential scanning calorimeter
- sample preparation and measurement protocols are as described in WO2017046305.
- the liquid fraction by weight of the butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter.
- the enthalpy of melting of the butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
- the butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
- the butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form.
- the melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the standard ISO 1,1357-3: 1999.
- the melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
- the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.
- the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.
- the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter.
- the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
- sample preparation and measurement protocols are as described in WO2017046305.
- the pasty fatty substance or butter may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin.
- a pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
- lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines,
- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones,
- linear or branched oligomers homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group,
- the particular butter or butters are of plant origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial. Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published 15/06/2000, D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, item 13.2.2.2, Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
- C10-C18 triglycerides having at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.
- C10-C18 triglycerides having at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction
- shea butter Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Teng
- THIXCIN® R from Elementis Specialties (INCI: Trihydroxystearin) or Estogel E from PolymerExpert (Proposed INCI name: Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Castor Oil).
- the gelling agent is chosen from dextrin palmitates.
- a fatty phase gelling agent according to the invention is a heat-sensitive gelling agent, namely which reacts with heat, and in particular is a gelling agent that is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 40 ° C., preferably higher at 50 ° C.
- a fatty phase gelling agent according to the invention is a thixotropic gelling agent or capable of conferring a thixotropic behavior on the solution which comprises it.
- a thixotropic gelling agent is in particular chosen from the optionally hydrophobic fumed silicas previously described.
- a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 75%, preferably from 0.5% to 60%, in particular from 1% to 40%, better still from 1.5% to 20%, and preferably 1% to 4%, by weight of gelling agent (s) relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
- a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 99%, preferably from 1% to 70%, in particular from 1.5% to 50%, better still from 2% to 40%, in particular from 2.5% to 30%, and preferably from 10% to 20%, by weight of gelling agent (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
- a dispersion according to the invention requires the use in the fatty phase of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H 1 containing more than 90%, preferably more than 95%, of fatty acids of chain length greater than or equal to to 18 carbon atoms, preferably greater than or equal to 20 carbon atoms.
- Preferably more than 90% and preferably more than 95%, of the fatty acids of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has a chain length between C 8 and C 36, preferably between C 20 and C 28, and more between C 20 and C 2 2-
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
- the fatty acid chains of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H 1 are linear or branched, preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated or even polyunsaturated.
- the term "unsaturated fatty acid” means a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. It is more particularly long-chain fatty acids, that is to say having at least 18, preferably 20, carbon atoms.
- the unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or in salt form, for example their calcium salt, or in the form of derivatives, especially fatty acid ester (s).
- non-volatile is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
- unsaturated fatty acids of the ⁇ -5 series mention may be made in particular of monounsaturated eicosenoic acid with 20 carbon atoms and unsaturation (20: 1, ⁇ -5), docosanoic acid monounsaturated with 22 carbon atoms. and unsaturation (22: 1, ⁇ -5) and docosadienoic acid polyunsaturated with 22 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (22: 2, ⁇ 5).
- ⁇ (or “delta-x”) relates to unsaturated fatty acids, for which each double bond is indicated by the sign ⁇ and followed by the position of the double bond along the aliphatic chain of the fatty acid since the carboxylic end -COOH of the molecule.
- a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention comprises a mixture of monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids.
- a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention comprises more than 90%, and preferably more than 95%, of fatty acids chosen from oleic acid, in particular of the (C18: 1, ⁇ -9) type.
- eicosenoic acid in particular of the type (C20: 1, ⁇ -5), docosanoic acid, in particular of the (C22: 1, ⁇ -5) and / or (C22: 1, ⁇ -13) type
- docosadienoic acid in particular of the type (C22: 2, ⁇ 5), and mixtures thereof, and more preferably eicosenoic acid, docosanoic acid and / or docosadienoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 is chosen from vegetable oils.
- the dispersion of the invention comprises several oils H1, at least one of which is a vegetable oil.
- the dispersion of the invention comprises a plurality of oils H1 chosen from vegetable oils.
- the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H 1 comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even is chain length less than 18 carbon atoms, and better still less than 20 carbon atoms.
- the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil H1 comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even is devoid of saturated fatty acid.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oils H1 examples include jojoba oil, linseed oil, Perilla oil, Inca Inchi oil, rosehip oil , rapeseed oil, hemp oil, sweet almond oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, Meadowfoam oil (INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil) and mixtures thereof, preferably jojoba oil and / or Meadowfoam oil, and better Meadowfoam oil.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oils H1 in particular vegetable oils, and especially Meadowfoam oil
- compositions in particular cosmetic compositions
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oils H1 in particular vegetable oils, and especially Meadowfoam oil
- their implementation in a macroscopically dispersed fatty phase of macroscopic drops may have advantageous effects in terms of reduction of opacification of the continuous aqueous phase and / or adhesion of the drops on the walls. packaging and / or aggregation of drops between them.
- the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 1% and 50%, preferably between 5% and 40%, in particular between 10% and 30%, and better still between 15% and 20%, by weight. of oil (s) H1 relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
- oil (s) H1 relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
- the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention further comprises at least one H2 oil, different from the aforementioned H1 oil.
- an H2 oil may be advantageous for conferring on the dispersion according to the invention a different sensoriality or ensuring the implementation of a particular raw material, for example not soluble in an oil H1.
- the oil H1 is a vegetable oil and the macroscopic drops of the dispersion according to the invention comprise a bark, in particular derived from the implementation of amodimethicone.
- amodimethicone has a lack of compatibility with vegetable oils.
- the oil H2 is therefore preferably an oil in which the cationic polymer is soluble.
- the H2 oil is therefore advantageously compatible with the cationic polymer and therefore corresponds to a good solvent of the cationic polymer.
- H2 oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene and squalane
- esters and synthetic ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a C 8 to C 29 fatty acid, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, C 3 to C 30 , such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, 2-hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptano
- silicone oils for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or alternatively octyldodecanol;
- the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least one oil H1 and at least one oil H2, different from the aforementioned oil H1.
- the mass ratio between the amount of oil (s) H1 and the amount of oil (s) H2 is from 0.01 to 1, preferably from 0.05 to 0.66, in particular from 0.1 to 0.43, and more preferably from 0.17 to 0.25.
- a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 50%, preferably from 0.1% to 40%, and more preferably from 1% to 25%, by weight of oil (s) H1 and H2 relative to to the total weight of said composition.
- the fatty phase comprises at least one oil H1, or even an oil H2, having a refractive index close to that of the gelling agent (s), in order to improve the transparency of the phase.
- the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention further comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from esters of sugar or of polysaccharide and of fatty acid (s), in particular of dextrin and acid ( s) fatty, and most preferably selected from the group consisting of dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates, and mixtures thereof
- H1 oil and optionally H2 oil has (s) a hint of refraction close to that of the gelling agent (s), namely an oil having a refractive index, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, of between 1, 2 and 1.8, preferably between 1.3 and 1.8. and 1, 7, in particular between 1, 4 and 1, 6, and more preferably between 1, 45 and 1, 55.
- the oil H1 having a refractive index of between 1, 2 and 1.8 is Meadowfoam oil.
- the oil H2 having a refractive index of between 1.2 and 1.8 is a silicone oil, in particular a phenyl silicone oil, for example diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil such as KF-56 A from Shin Etsu ( INCI Name: Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone).
- a silicone oil in particular a phenyl silicone oil, for example diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil such as KF-56 A from Shin Etsu ( INCI Name: Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone).
- Such an H2 oil may also be INOLEX LexFeel® Shine Oil (INCI Name: Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate).
- the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed fatty phase may further comprise at least one additional compound other than the anionic and cationic polymers, the gelling agent and the aforementioned oils.
- the dispersions according to the invention can thus also comprise powders; Glitter ; coloring agents, especially chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, liposoluble or non-organic or inorganic dyes, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase; conservatives; humectants; stabilizers; chelators; emollients; modifying agents selected from texturing agents, viscosity agents (e.g., gelling agents / aqueous phase texture agents other than the aforementioned base), pH, osmotic strength and / or refractive index modifiers etc. or any usual cosmetic additive; and their mixtures.
- coloring agents especially chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, liposoluble or non-organic or inorganic dyes, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase; conservatives; humectants; stabilizers; chelators; emollients;
- the particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase of the drops are chosen from the group consisting of pigments, ceramics, polymers, especially acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
- the dispersions according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active agent chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV-screening agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecular dermal and / or epidermal agents, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.
- at least one biological / cosmetic active agent chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV-screening agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecular dermal and / or epidermal agents, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.
- the dispersion according to the invention comprises from 0.00020% to 10%, preferably from 0.00025% to 5%, and preferably from 0.0026% to 1% by weight of agent (s). dye (s), and in particular dye (s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- preservatives there may be mentioned phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol and EDTA.
- the dispersions according to the invention comprise at least one preservative, and preferably a mixture of several preservatives.
- the content by weight of preserving agent (s) is from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- a dispersion according to the invention and in particular the heart of the drops (i.e., the fatty phase), can also comprise at least one perfuming agent, especially as defined in WO2016096995.
- the dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 30% by weight of perfume agent (s), preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion .
- the dispersions of the invention may further comprise glycerine.
- a dispersion according to the invention may comprise at least 5% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- the dispersions according to the invention provide another advantage over “conventional" emulsions because they allow the use of glycerin, moreover in high levels.
- They may in particular comprise glycerin in a content greater than or equal to 10%, greater than or equal to 20%, greater than or equal to 30%, greater than or equal to 40%, or even up to 50%, by weight, by relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
- the dispersion of the invention further comprises at least one filler.
- a dispersion according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, making it possible, in particular, to impart to it additional properties of improved stability with regard to exudation and non-migration properties after application and / or dullness and / or coverage.
- filler is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they allow to confer body or rigidity and / or softness, and uniformity to the deposit, especially in a context of makeup.
- the fillers used in the dispersions according to the invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
- the fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. dispersion.
- silicones amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. dispersion.
- it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer.
- Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof.
- the aqueous phase may comprise at least one texturing agent different from the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.
- hydrophilic texture agents that is to say those which are soluble or dispersible in water, and therefore may be present in the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:
- natural texture agents chosen in particular from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, exudates of microorganisms, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents, in particular hyaluronic acid,
- synthetic texturizing agents chosen in particular from homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters, (meth) acrylic acid copolymers or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido); 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), associative polymers,
- the other texturing agents especially chosen from polyethylene glycols (sold under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those sold under the names Aerosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerin, and
- the term "associative polymer” means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; associative polymers according to the present The invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; these include those described in FR 2 999 921. Preferably, these are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers as described below.
- hydrophilic texture agents are described in more detail in FR3041251.
- any additional compound (s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the dispersion according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged.
- the nature and / or the amount of the additional compound (s) depends on the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase of the dispersion according to the invention.
- the dispersions according to the invention can be prepared by different processes.
- the dispersions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" method, namely by simple emulsification.
- an aqueous solution and a fat solution are prepared separately. It is the stirring addition of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase which creates the direct emulsion.
- the viscosity of the aqueous phase can be controlled, in particular by varying the amount of anionic polymer (especially carbomer) and the pH of the solution.
- the pH of the aqueous phase is less than 4.5, which may involve the addition of a third sodium hydroxide solution (BF) in the last time to reach a pH of between 5.5 and 6, 5.
- the viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are the two main parameters that influence the size and monodispersity of the emulsion.
- the emulsions according to the invention can also be prepared according to a microfluidic process, in particular as described in international applications WO2012 / 120043 or WO2015 / 055748. According to this embodiment, the drops obtained by this microfluidic process have a uniform size distribution.
- the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse drops, in particular such that they have a mean diameter D ranging from 100 ⁇ to 3,000 ⁇ , in particular from 500 ⁇ to 3,000 ⁇ , and a coefficient Cv variation less than 10%, or even less than 3%.
- the term "monodisperse drops” means that the population of drops of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodispersed drops have good monodispersity. Conversely, drops with poor monodispersity are said to be “polydispersed”.
- the average diameter D of the drops is for example measured by analysis of a photograph of a batch consisting of N drops, by an image processing software (Image J).
- Image J image processing software
- the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in ⁇ , depending on the size of the container containing the drops of the dispersion.
- the value of N is chosen greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the drop diameter distribution of said emulsion.
- N is advantageously greater than or equal to 100, especially in the case where the dispersion is polydispersed.
- the standard deviation ⁇ of a dispersion reflects the distribution of the diameters D, drops of the dispersion around the average diameter D.
- the coefficient of variation can be calculated:
- This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the drops as a function of the average diameter thereof.
- the coefficient of variation Cv of the diameters of the drops according to this mode of the invention is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.
- the monodispersity can be demonstrated by placing a dispersion sample in a bottle of constant circular section. A gentle stirring by rotating a quarter of a turn for half a second around the axis of symmetry through the bottle, followed by a rest of half a second is performed, before repeating the operation in the opposite direction, and this four times in a row.
- the drops of the dispersed phase are organized in a crystalline form when they are monodispersed. Thus, they have a stack in a repeating pattern following in three dimensions. It is then possible to observe, a regular stack which indicates a good monodispersity, an irregular stack reflecting the polydispersity of the dispersion.
- microfluidic technique Utada et al., MRS Bulletin 32, 702-708 (2007), Cramer et al., Chem Eng Sci 59, 15, 3045-3058). (2004)
- microfluidic devices of co-flow type the fluids go in the same direction
- flow-focusing devices the fluids go in different directions, and typically in opposite directions.
- the process for preparing such an emulsion according to the invention may comprise a heating step (between 40 ° C. and 150 ° C., in particular between 50 ° C. and 90 ° C.) of at least the fatty phase before mixing. contacting said fatty phase with the aqueous phase and, if appropriate and in the case of a "non-microfluidic" process as mentioned above, maintaining this heating during stirring until obtaining the desired dispersion.
- the process for preparing the dispersions of the invention comprises a drop-forming step comprising:
- the fluid F1 is initially prepared by mixing a fatty phase intended to form the heart of the drops, at least one gelling agent and at least one oil H1 and optionally, at least one first precursor polymer. coacervation such as a cationic polymer as defined above, at least one H2 oil and / or at least one additional compound such as mentioned above (s).
- the fluid FE is initially prepared by mixing an aqueous phase intended to form the continuous phase of the dispersion with, optionally, at least one base, at least one second polymer precursor of coacervation, such as an anionic polymer as defined above, at least one additional compound, preservatives and / or other water-soluble products such as glycerine.
- the cationic polymer optionally present in said oily fluid FI serves in particular for the formation of the bark of the drops.
- the aqueous continuous phase of the dispersion formed comprises, or is represented by, the aqueous phase of the fluid FE.
- the anionic polymer optionally present in said fluid FE is used in particular for the formation of the bark of the drops. Said anionic polymer also contributes to increasing the viscosity of the fluid FE, and therefore of the continuous aqueous phase.
- the drop formation step may further comprise a step of injecting a solution for increasing the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE.
- the viscosity increasing solution is aqueous. This solution for increasing the viscosity is typically injected into the aqueous external fluid FE after formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and thus after formation of the drops.
- the solution for increasing the viscosity comprises a base, in particular an alkaline hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.
- the method for preparing a dispersion according to the invention comprises a step of heating the oily fluid F1, comprising the fatty phase of the dispersion, at a temperature of between 40 ° C. and 150 ° C., of preferably from 50 ° C to 90 ° C, prior to the aforementioned step of forming the drops, and therefore before mixing / contacting said fatty phase with the aqueous phase.
- this heating step can be maintained during stirring to obtain the desired dispersion.
- the temperature of the heating step is from 50 ° C to 80 ° C, preferably from 50 ° C to 70 ° C, and more preferably from 55 to 65 ° C.
- oily fluid FI when the oily fluid FI comprises from 5% to 15% by weight of agent (s) gelling (s) relative to the total weight of said oily fluid FI, said oily fluid FI is advantageously heated to a temperature from 65 to 70 ° C.
- the oily fluid F1 comprises from 15% to 99%, preferably from 15% to 40%, by weight of gelling agent (s) relative to the total weight of said oily fluid F1, said oily fluid F1 is heated to a temperature of 80 to 90 ° C.
- the process for preparing the dispersions of the invention comprises the following steps:
- drops of fatty phase consisting of the oily fluid F1, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase constituted by fluid FE, the said drops optionally comprising a bark isolating the heart from the drops of the fatty phase of the dispersion,
- the oily fluid FI comprises at least one gelling agent and at least one H1 oil and, optionally, at least one cationic polymer as defined above, in particular amodimethicone, at least one H 2 and / or at least one additional compound as mentioned above; and the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one anionic polymer as defined above, in particular a carbomer, at least one additional compound as mentioned above.
- the dispersion according to the invention is directly usable, at the end of the aforementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition.
- the dispersion according to the invention when prepared by means of a microfluidic process as described above, is also usable as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, after separation of the drops and redispersion thereof in a second phase. appropriate.
- the invention also relates to the use of a dispersion according to the invention for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition.
- the present invention thus also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one dispersion according to the invention, in combination with a physiologically acceptable medium.
- the dispersions or compositions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetics field.
- They may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.
- physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is suitable for cosmetic applications, and that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin.
- the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
- the physiologically acceptable medium is represented directly by the aqueous continuous phase as described above.
- the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be, for example, a cream, an emulsion, a lotion, a serum, a gel and an oil for the skin (hands, face, feet, etc.), a foundation (liquid, paste ) a preparation for baths and showers (salts, foams, oils, gels, etc.), a hair care product (hair dye and bleach), a cleaning product (lotions, powders, shampoos), a care product for hair (lotions, creams, oils), a product of styling (lotions, lacquers, glossines), a product for shaving (soaps, foams, lotions, etc.), a product intended to be applied to the lips, a sun product, a tanning product without sunlight, a product allowing whiten the skin, an anti-wrinkle product.
- the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be an anti-aging serum, a youth serum, a moisturizing serum or a scented water.
- the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one dispersion or at least one layer of a cosmetic composition mentioned above.
- the present invention also relates to the use of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 containing more than 90%, preferably more than 95%, of fatty acids having at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably at least 20 carbon atoms. carbon, as defined above, to improve the transparency of a dispersion according to the invention, and in particular to reduce or even prevent:
- the dispersions described below result from a microfluidic process, especially as described above or in WO2017046305.
- the microfluidic device used is broken down into two parts, a first part where the contact between the IF (or FI) and the OF (or FE) is carried out hot (between 75 and 90 ° C.). to form the dispersion, and a second part ensuring rapid cooling of the dispersion thus formed to accelerate the gelling kinetics of the drops and thus prevent the risk of coalescence of the post-formation drops (cooling temperature: between 5 and 28 ° C) .
- This example consisted in preparing dispersions of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
- the compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are as follows:
- Tests 2A-2C differ from tests 1A-1C by the presence of amodimethicone in gelled fatty phase. This leads to the formation of a membrane at the water-oil interface resulting from an interfacial complex coacervation reaction between the amodimethicone and the carbomer.
- Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol and EDTA are incorporated into the water. The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.
- the carbomer is then dispersed in the preceding mixture with stirring for 30 minutes using a pale deflocculator.
- the glycerine is then added and the mixture is stirred for 10 minutes.
- the amodimethicone when present (ie tests 2A to 2C), is added to the isononyl isononanoate and then mixed with a magnetic bar for 5 minutes.
- the PHAT BLUE DC6204 dye is then added with stirring.
- the heated IF solution is introduced into a syringe connected to a heater to keep the IF hot (80 ° C). To reduce heat losses the microfluidic device has been installed directly out of the syringe.
- the soda and water are mixed using a magnetic bar for 5 min.
- the dispersions obtained comprise drops having a mean diameter greater than 100 ⁇ , in particular greater than 300 ⁇ .
- each test of Example 1 is packaged in three containers of polypropylene (PP) of 30 ml filled to half. After 1 day at room temperature, each test undergoes one of the following three transport tests (one receptacle per test), namely:
- the use of at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention thus effectively reduces the phenomenon of opacification of the aqueous phase. continuous but also aggregation of the drops between them (and therefore the risk of coalescence) and the adhesion of the drops on the walls of the packaging.
- This example consisted in preparing dispersions of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
- the compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are as follows:
- the dispersions obtained comprise drops having a mean diameter greater than 100 ⁇ , in particular greater than 300 ⁇ .
- an increase in the content of gelling agent in the dispersed fatty phase (i.e. 2C vs 3C) makes it possible to further reduce the aggregation of the drops between them, and therefore the risks of coalescence.
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1755907A FR3067930B1 (fr) | 2017-06-27 | 2017-06-27 | Dispersions comprenant au moins une huile volatile hydrocarbonee |
PCT/EP2018/067140 WO2019002308A1 (fr) | 2017-06-27 | 2018-06-26 | Dispersions comprenant au moins une huile non volatile hydrocarbonée |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP3644957A1 true EP3644957A1 (fr) | 2020-05-06 |
Family
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EP18734218.3A Pending EP3644957A1 (fr) | 2017-06-27 | 2018-06-26 | Dispersions comprenant au moins une huile non volatile hydrocarbonée |
Country Status (5)
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US (1) | US11534390B2 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3644957A1 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN110972462A (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3067930B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2019002308A1 (fr) |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR3098113B1 (fr) * | 2019-07-04 | 2022-05-27 | Capsum | Composition sous forme d’émulsion huile-dans-eau avec une phase grasse sous forme de gouttes et d’agrégats |
FR3110406B1 (fr) * | 2020-05-21 | 2022-12-23 | Capsum | Dispersion stable sans écorce |
FR3110405B1 (fr) | 2020-05-21 | 2022-05-13 | Capsum | Emulsion double stable sans écorce |
FR3119317B1 (fr) | 2021-02-04 | 2024-05-03 | Capsum | Composition sous forme d’émulsion macroscopique stable comprenant un pourcentage d’ingrédients d’origine naturelle supérieur ou égale à 95% selon la norme ISO 16128 |
FR3129287A1 (fr) | 2021-11-24 | 2023-05-26 | Capsum | Dispersion macroscopique avec phase grasse dispersee à teneur élevée en polymere cationique et en pigments |
FR3129286A1 (fr) | 2021-11-24 | 2023-05-26 | Capsum | Dispersion macroscopique |
FR3129590A1 (fr) | 2021-11-26 | 2023-06-02 | Capsum | Dispersion macroscopique solaire sans écorce |
FR3129605A1 (fr) | 2021-11-26 | 2023-06-02 | Capsum | Procédé de formation d’une dispersion comprenant des gouttes, et appareil associé |
FR3129607A1 (fr) | 2021-11-26 | 2023-06-02 | Capsum | Emulsion millimétrique bi-phasique |
FR3136157A1 (fr) | 2022-06-02 | 2023-12-08 | Capsum | Procédé simplifié de préparation d’une émulsion double |
FR3139481A1 (fr) | 2022-09-13 | 2024-03-15 | Capsum | Procédé de formation d’une dispersion comprenant des gouttes, et appareil associé |
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JP2796990B2 (ja) | 1989-05-10 | 1998-09-10 | 株式会社資生堂 | 肌用化粧料 |
JP2849437B2 (ja) * | 1990-03-30 | 1999-01-20 | 東陽化成株式会社 | 乳化状の化粧品と医薬部外品 |
FR2715294B1 (fr) * | 1994-01-26 | 1996-03-22 | Oreal | Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique anhydre contenant l'association d'une huile de silicone et d'une cire d'un homo- ou copolymère d'éthylène . |
DE69621409T2 (de) * | 1995-12-27 | 2003-01-16 | Kao Corp | Polysaccharidderivat, Verfahren zu deren Herstellung und seine Verwendung |
JP3195557B2 (ja) * | 1996-03-16 | 2001-08-06 | ウエラ アクチェンゲゼルシャフト | 混合ワックスおよびこれを含有する化粧品 |
US5874069A (en) | 1997-01-24 | 1999-02-23 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Cosmetic composition containing silicon-modified amides as thickening agents and method of forming same |
US5919441A (en) | 1996-04-01 | 1999-07-06 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Cosmetic composition containing thickening agent of siloxane polymer with hydrogen-bonding groups |
DE69725320T2 (de) * | 1996-08-02 | 2004-07-15 | Plum Kemi Produktion A/S | Oel-im-wasser emulsion zur gruendlichen reinigung, zum schutz oder verbesserung der haut |
US5783657A (en) | 1996-10-18 | 1998-07-21 | Union Camp Corporation | Ester-terminated polyamides of polymerized fatty acids useful in formulating transparent gels in low polarity liquids |
US6051216A (en) | 1997-08-01 | 2000-04-18 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Cosmetic composition containing siloxane based polyamides as thickening agents |
US5981680A (en) | 1998-07-13 | 1999-11-09 | Dow Corning Corporation | Method of making siloxane-based polyamides |
FR2792190B1 (fr) | 1999-04-16 | 2001-09-28 | Sophim | Procede de fabrication d'un emollient non gras a base de cires-esters |
AU2002230016A1 (en) | 2000-12-12 | 2002-06-24 | L'oreal S.A. | Cosmetic composition comprising a polymer and fibres |
WO2002056847A1 (fr) | 2001-01-17 | 2002-07-25 | L'oreal | Composition cosmetique contenant un polymer et une huile fluoree |
EP1386600A1 (fr) * | 2002-08-02 | 2004-02-04 | L'oreal | Composition gélifiée par un ester de dextrine |
KR101047694B1 (ko) * | 2007-11-30 | 2011-07-08 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | 휘발 안정성과 탁월한 보습력을 가지는 고형 수중유형화장료 조성물 |
EP2683475B1 (fr) * | 2011-03-08 | 2019-06-19 | Capsum | Procédé de formation de gouttes d'une première phase dispersées dans une deuxième phase sensiblement immiscible avec la première phase |
FR2972367B1 (fr) | 2011-03-08 | 2013-04-05 | Capsum | Emulsion stable de type eau dans huile |
FR2976824B1 (fr) | 2011-06-21 | 2013-08-02 | Capsum | Dispositif de formation de gouttes d'une phase interne dispersees dans une phase externe, ensemble et procede associes |
FR2999921B1 (fr) | 2012-12-20 | 2015-04-03 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique aqueuse comprenant de l'alkylcellulose. |
FR3012050B1 (fr) | 2013-10-17 | 2016-01-01 | Capsum | Procede de formation d'une dispersion comprenant des gouttes, et appareil associe |
FR3029785B1 (fr) | 2014-12-16 | 2017-01-27 | Capsum | Dispersions stables comprenant des gouttes d'agent parfumant |
FR3041252B1 (fr) * | 2015-09-18 | 2019-01-25 | Capsum | Dispersions stables de gouttes comprenant un agent gelifiant |
FR3041251B1 (fr) | 2015-09-18 | 2019-01-25 | Capsum | Compositions sous forme d'emulsions huile-dans-eau dont la phase grasse est sous forme de gouttes |
-
2017
- 2017-06-27 FR FR1755907A patent/FR3067930B1/fr active Active
-
2018
- 2018-06-26 CN CN201880043179.5A patent/CN110972462A/zh active Pending
- 2018-06-26 WO PCT/EP2018/067140 patent/WO2019002308A1/fr unknown
- 2018-06-26 US US16/626,820 patent/US11534390B2/en active Active
- 2018-06-26 EP EP18734218.3A patent/EP3644957A1/fr active Pending
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US11534390B2 (en) | 2022-12-27 |
FR3067930A1 (fr) | 2018-12-28 |
CN110972462A (zh) | 2020-04-07 |
WO2019002308A1 (fr) | 2019-01-03 |
US20200129413A1 (en) | 2020-04-30 |
FR3067930B1 (fr) | 2020-01-10 |
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