Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

• New surfactant mixture novel composition comprising and use in cosmetics
• the present invention relates to a novel process for improving the foaming properties of topical formulations, novel compositions for topical use, their use for cleaning skin, hair, scalp, mucous membranes, and a method of cleaning the skin human and animal, hair, scalp and mucous membranes.
• the present invention finds application in the cosmetic and dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical human and veterinary field.
• Cleaning formulations include cleansing and foaming surfactants, whether of cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic nature. These surfactants are said to be amphiphilic because they consist of a hydrophilic part (or polar head), soluble in water, and a lipophilic part (hydrophobic tail) which has an affinity with oils and greases. This amphiphilic structure makes it possible both to dissolve greasy soils and to eliminate them by a washing operation.
• Anionic surfactants have historically been surfactants which have been used to prepare foaming cleansing formulations for topical use.
• Sulphated anionic surfactants are a class of surfactants frequently used because of their good foaming properties. These surfactants are known for their good cleaning power, and they also produce an aerated foam whose feel is not considered unpleasant by the consumer.
• these surfactants have the disadvantage of being sensitive to the degree of hardness of the water and the presence of greasy soils, which consequently leads to a decrease in the volume of foam initially generated by these formulations but especially a decrease in the stability over time of this volume of foam.
• fatty acids as foam stabilizing agents, whose aliphatic fatty chain comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in mass proportions greater than or equal to 10% by weight for 100% of the mass of said cleaning formulation for topical use.
• foam stabilizing additives are often not very biodegradable and sometimes toxic, which makes them non-compliant with the new environmental requirements and regulations, and for application to the skin.
• the French patent application published under the number 2,850,017 discloses a means for stabilizing cosmetic compositions in the form of foams by using fatty acids in small amounts, provided that this foam is obtained from a emulsion in the form of oil-in-water and to associate said fatty acids with sugar derivatives, and more particularly alkyl glycosides, said combination being described as "emulsifying".
• the fatty acids used in the French patent application published under number 2,850,017 are carboxylic fatty acids with a linear or branched aliphatic chain containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
• alkyl glycosides used in the French patent application published under the number 2,850,017 are alkyl glycosides having emulsifying properties such as, for example, the emulsifying compositions sold under the tradenames MONTANOV TM 68 (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside), MONTANOV. TM 82 (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol and coco-glucoside), MONTANOV TM L (INCI name: C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkyl glucoside).
• Foams generated by aqueous solutions comprising such N-acyl derivatives of glutamic acid, or a salt thereof, and / or aspartic acid, or a salt thereof, have both advantage of forming with an average expansion time and to show mechanical properties making them suitable for use in a step of removing cuttings during a drilling operation of underground cavities.
• the US patent application published under the number US 2008/0233057 A1 describes gentle cleaning compositions comprising i) at least one surfactant of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, ii) at least one coloring agent, iii) at least one encapsulated coloring agent.
• the foaming surfactants included in this mild cleaning composition may be N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, for example sodium cocoyl glutamate, alkylpolyglycosides, for example alkylpolyglucosides whose alkyl chain may contain from 4 to 22 atoms. carbon, more particularly from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
• the US patent application published under the number US 2004/0057922 A1 describes a cosmetic composition comprising for 100% of its mass i) from 2% to 50% by weight of at least one N-acylated amino acid derivative, and ii ) from 50% to 98% by weight of at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside.
• This US patent application published under the number US 2004/0057922 A1 also describes a comparative composition noted (C3) comprising the sodium salt of cocoyl glutamate and C12-16 alkylpolyglucoside in a weight ratio cocoyl sodium glutamate / C12-16 alkylpolyglucoside 3/1.
• JP2010-285397 describes compositions comprising at least one N-acyl glutamic surfactant, at least one N-acyl aspartic surfactant and at least one sugar-based surfactant selected from the group consisting of esters of sugar derivatives or alkylpolyglucosides.
• the Japanese patent application JP2010-285397 expressly describes the alkylpolyglucosides whose alkyl chain comprises from 8 to 16 atoms. , and more particularly from 8 to 12 carbon atoms (JP2010-285397, paragraph [0022]).
• Such compositions are described as having good foaming characteristics (JP2010-285397, paragraph [0048]) and imparting high health and hairspring properties (JP2010-285397, paragraphs [0052], [0053], [0054] ).
• compositions comprising an N-acyl aspartic acid salt and at least one alkylpolyglucoside whose alkyl chain comprises from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Such compositions are used to prepare cleaning formulations having good detergency, but also improved skin tolerance and imparting sensory properties of freshness to hair and skin.
• the international patent application published under the number WO2015 / 122371 A1 describes cleaning compositions comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant and anionic surfactants, said anionic surfactants comprising at least one N-acylated derivative of the acid.
• glutamic acid and at least one alkyl ether of a carboxylic acid and at least one alkylsulfosuccinic acid are described as generating a "rich" foam and characterized by good sensory properties (WO2015 / 122371 A1, page 21, paragraph [0064]).
• the subject of the invention is a process for improving the foaming properties of a cleaning formulation for topical use (Fi) comprising for 100% of its mass from 0.5% to 10% by mass. , more particularly from 1% to 10% by mass and even more particularly from 1% to 8% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:
• composition ( ⁇ ) From 14% to 80% by weight of a composition (C3) or a mixture of compositions (C3), said composition (C3) being represented by formula (III):
• composition (C3) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (III1), (Mb), (M is), (NU) and (II l 5 ):
• composition ( ⁇ ) From 20% to 80% of a composition (C 4 ) or a mixture of compositions (C 4 ), said composition (C 4 ) being represented by formula (V):
• composition (C 4 ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (V1), (V 2 ), (V 3 ), (V) and (Vs):
• R 4 is as defined for the above formula (V).
• the expansion rate (T F ) is the ratio between the volume of foam produced by a foaming composition on the volume of the foaming solution used. Therefore, the higher the rate of expansion, the more the foam is light and its large volume, not allowing easy spreading on the skin.
• alkali metals for example sodium (Na + ), potassium (K + ) or lithium (Li + ) cation,
• alkyloxyalkyl ammonium, bis (alkyloxyalkyl) ammonium or tris (alkyloxyalkyl) ammonium cations in which the alkyloxyalkyl radical or radicals contain from two to six carbon atoms, for example the 2-ethoxyethanammonium cation,
• residue of a reducing sugar in the definition of the radicals (G3) and (G4), formulas (II I) and (V) as defined above are designated, the remainder of saccharide derivatives without a glycosidic bond established between an anomeric carbon. and oxygen of an acetal group, as defined in the reference work: "Biochemistry, Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990.”
• Oligomeric structures (G3) and P (L 4) q may be in any form of isomerism, whether optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or position isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.
• the group R3 is bonded to G3 by the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
• the R 4 group is bonded to G 4 by the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
• G 3 and G 4 which are identical or different independently of each other the radical of a sugar reducing agent glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose.
• a sugar reducing agent glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose.
• R 3 By linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from twelve to sixteen carbon atoms, R 3 is especially designated in formulas (III) and (IV):
• n-Ci2H25- dodecyl
• tetradecyl n-Cl 4 H 2 9
• hexadecyl n-CIEH -
• r represents an integer of between 8 and 16, for example the isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl or isohexadecyl radical;
• said method for improving the foaming properties of a cleaning formulation for topical use (Fi) is characterized in that in said composition (C2) the proportions of alcohol of formula (VI) are zero.
• the compounds of formula (I) and of formula (II) are partially or completely salified in the form of sodium salt or of potassium salt.
• composition (Ci) as defined above comprises, for 100% of its mass, from 65% to 90% by weight of one or more compounds of formula (I) and from 10% to 35% by mass. one or more compounds of formula (II); and more particularly from 65% to 85% by weight of one or more compounds of formula (I) and from 15% to 35% by weight of one or more compounds of formula (II).
• the radical is more particularly an acyl radical selected from octanoyl, decanoyl, ⁇ -undecylenoyl, dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, 9-octadecenoyl, 9,12-octadecadienoyl and 9,12,15-octadecatrienenoyl.
• an acyl radical selected from octanoyl, decanoyl, ⁇ -undecylenoyl, dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, 9-octadecenoyl, 9,12-octadecadienoyl and 9,12,15-octadecatrienenoyl.
• the compounds of formulas (I) as described above are generally obtained by N-acylation of the corresponding amino acids or their salts. It is described for example in the international application published under the number WO 98/0961 1. It is implemented indifferently on an amino acid or on a mixture of amino acids.
• the acylating agent generally consists of an activated derivative of the carboxylic acid of formula:
• R 1 is as previously defined, such as a symmetrical anhydride of this acid, the methyl ester of this acid, or an acid halide such as acid chloride or acid bromide. It can also consist of a mixture of activated derivatives of carboxylic acids derived from natural oils or fats of animal or vegetable origin such as coconut oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, soya oil, rapeseed oil , corn, beef tallow, spermaceti oil or herring oil.
• composition (Ci) is obtained by a process comprising at least:
• a mixture of acid chlorides comprising, for 100 mol%, from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of dodecanoyl chloride, from 10
• the mixture of acid chlorides used comprises, for 100 mol%, 11 mol% of octanoyl chloride, 9.5 mol% of decanoyl chloride, 51 mol% of dodecanoyl chloride, , 5 mol% of tetradecanoyl chloride, 6.5 mol% of hexadecanoyl chloride, 2 mol% of octadecanoyl chloride, 3 mol% of 9-octadecenoyl chloride and 1.5% of octadeca-9 chloride. , 12-dienoyl.
• the subject of the invention is said process as defined above, characterized in that the compound (s) of formula (I) are chosen from monosodium N-cocoyl glutamate and N-cocoyl glutamate, N -cocoyl disodium glutamate and dipotassium N-cocoyl glutamate.
• composition (C2) comprises for 100% of its mass:
• the subject of the invention is said process as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) as defined above comprises, for 100% of its mass, a mass proportion in said composition (C3) greater than or equal to 14% and less than or equal to 65%, a mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (IV) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%, a mass proportion of said composition (C 4 ) greater than or equal to 35% to and less than or equal to 80% and a mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (VI) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%.
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in said formula (III), G3 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and lithium. arabinose.
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in said formula (III), p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that formulas (III) and (IV), the radical R3 represents a linear alkyl radical chosen from dodecyl radicals (n-C12H). 5- 2), tetradecyl (n-2 Ci4H 9) and n-hexadecyl (n-Ci6H 3 2-).
• the radical R3 represents a linear alkyl radical chosen from dodecyl radicals (n-C12H). 5- 2), tetradecyl (n-2 Ci4H 9) and n-hexadecyl (n-Ci6H 3 2-).
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in formula (V), G4 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.
• the subject of the invention is the method as defined above, characterized in that in the formula (V), q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5 , more preferably greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in formulas (V) and (VI), R 4 represents a linear alkyl radical chosen from hexyl radicals. and heptyl (n-C7Hi 5 -).
• R 4 represents the heptyl radical (n-C7Hi 5 -).
• R 4 represents the n-hexyl (n-CeH-) radical.
• the invention relates to the method as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) and compositions (C 4), said mixture comprising per 100% of its mass: ( ⁇ ) - From 13.6% to 44.4% by weight, more particularly from 17% to 44.4% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the dodecyl radical (n -Ci2H25-)
• (Y2) - From 5% to 16.25% by weight, more particularly from 6.25% to 16.25% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the tetradecyl radical (n 9- -Ci4H 2), and
• (Y3) From 1.4% to 4.55% by weight, more particularly from 1.75% to 4.55% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the hexadecyl radical (n-Ci6H 3 2-), and
• composition ( ⁇ ) From 35% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 35% by mass to 75% by weight, of a composition (C 4 ) represented by the formula (V) in which R 4 represents the heptyl radical (n-C 7 H 15) ).
• the invention relates to the method as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) and compositions (C 4), said mixture comprising per 100% of its mass:
• composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the dodecyl radical (n-C12H); 2 5-),
• composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the tetradecyl radical (n-Ci); 4 H 2 9-), and
• composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the hexadecyl radical (n -Ci6H 3 2-), and
• composition (C 4 ) represents, by the formula (V) in which R 4 represents the radical, the 2-ethyl hexyl radical.
• composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) comprising for 100% of its mass:
• composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the hexadecyl radical (n -Ci6H 3 2-), and
• R4 represents the n-hexadecyl radical (n-)
• G3 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose
• p represents a higher decimal number or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2,
• R 3 represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl (n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl (n-2 Ci4H 9) and hexadecyl (n-Ci6H 3 2-).
• the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (III), G3 represents the rest of the glucose, p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2 , 5, and R 3 represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl (n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl (n-2 Ci4H 9) and hexadecyl (n-Ci6H32-).
• the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (III) G3 represents the rest of the xylose, p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2, 5, and R 3 represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl (n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl radical (n-C14H29-), and the hexadecyl radical (n-CIEH -).
• G4 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0
• R 4 represents an aliphatic alkyl radical selected from hexyl (n-CeHis-), heptyl radical (n-C7Hi 5 -) and (2-ethylhexyl).
• the process as defined above is characterized in that in the formula (V), G4 represents the rest of the glucose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2 , 5, and R4 represents an aliphatic alkyl radical selected from hexyl (n-CeHis-), heptyl (n-C7Hi 5 -) and (2-ethyl-hexyl).
• the process as defined above is characterized in that in the formula (V), G4 represents the rest of the glucose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2 , 5, and R 4 represents the radical heptyl (n-C7Hi 5 -).
• the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (V), G4 represents the rest of the xylose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5, and R4 represents an aliphatic alkyl radical selected from hexyl radicals heptyl (n-C7H15-) and (2-ethylhexyl).
• the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (V), G4 represents the rest of xylose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2, 5, and R 4 represents the radical heptyl (n-C7Hi 5 -).
• composition (C3) is obtained by the implementation of a process comprising at least one glycosylation step A ') of:
• composition (C4) is obtained by the implementation of a process comprising at least one glycosylation step of:
• G4 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar selected from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.
• the process as defined above is characterized in that the composition (C3) is obtained by the implementation of a process comprising at least one glycosylation step A 'generally carried out with mechanical stirring, by contacting a molar equivalent of a reducing sugar (G3) with from one to five molar equivalents of the mixture of dodecanol-1, tetradecanol-1, and hexadecanol-1, as described above, in presence of an acidic catalyst system, under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions.
• a process comprising at least one glycosylation step A 'generally carried out with mechanical stirring, by contacting a molar equivalent of a reducing sugar (G3) with from one to five molar equivalents of the mixture of dodecanol-1, tetradecanol-1, and hexadecanol-1, as described above, in presence of an acidic catalyst system, under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions.
• step Ai 'of the process for preparing the composition (C4), as defined above, is generally carried out with mechanical stirring, by bringing into contact a molar equivalent of a reducing sugar (G4) with from one to four molar equivalents of at least one alcohol of formula (V), in the presence of an acidic catalyst system, under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions.
• Such temperature and partial vacuum conditions are, for example, temperature values between 70 ° C. and 130 ° C., and a partial vacuum of between 300 mbar (3.10 4 Pa) and 20 mbar (2.10 3 Pa).
• Carrying out step A 'and the ⁇ -glycosylation step respectively makes it possible to form the composition (C3), or a mixture of compounds represented by formulas (III1), (Mb), (Mb), (NU ) and (III 5 ) as defined above, and optionally an excess of the alcohol of formula (IV) or the mixture of alcohols of formula (IV), and the composition (C4), a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (V1), (V 2 ), (V 3 ), (V 4 ) and (V 5 ) as defined above, and optionally an excess of the alcohol of formula (VI).
• step A or step Ai 'of the respective method for preparing compositions (C3) and (C4) as defined above, respectively can be followed by a step B' or a step ⁇ - elimination of alcohols respectively of formula (IV), or of the mixture of alcohols of formula (IV), and of formula (VI), unreacted during step A ') or of step A'.
• Such a preparation process can be completed, if necessary or if desired, by neutralization, filtration and bleaching operations.
• acidic catalyst system in step A 'and in step Ai' of the process defined above, it is meant strong acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, methanesulfonic acid, (para-toluene) sulfonic acid, (trifluoromethane) sulfonic acid, hypophosphorous acid, hyponitrous acid, polyphosphoric acid, or ion exchange resins.
• strong acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, methanesulfonic acid, (para-toluene) sulfonic acid, (trifluoromethane) sulfonic acid, hypophosphorous acid, hyponitrous acid, polyphosphoric acid, or ion exchange resins.
• step B ') or step ⁇ ) of the process as described above the alcohols respectively of formula (IV), or the mixture of alcohols of formula (IV), or the alcohol of formula (V) are removed by methods known to those skilled in the art such as, for example, by distillation, such as hard thin-film distillation, molecular distillation or solvent extraction.
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above which is characterized in that, the mass ratio
• ⁇ mass of compound (s) of formula (I) / [mass of composition (C3) + mass of composition (C4)], is greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 65/35, plus especially greater than or equal to 25/75 and less than or equal to 65/35.
• the subject of the invention is the process as defined above which is characterized in that, the mass ratio
• ⁇ 1 mass of the composition (C3) / mass of the composition (C 4 ) is greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 70/30, more particularly greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 65/35, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 25/75 and less than or equal to 65/35.
• the subject of the invention is also a formulation (F 2 ) for topical use, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% by weight:
• composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:
• composition (C2) such as as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, and
• foaming and / or detergent surfactant selected from foaming surfactants and / or anionic or amphoteric detergents, and
• Foaming and / or detergent surfactants are defined in the definition of the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above, the compounds of amphiphilic structure which are used to generate foam in aqueous solution and / or allow the cleaning of the soils of human skin, and more particularly foaming surfactants and / or anionic and / or amphoteric detergents.
• foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants optionally present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention
• the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactant present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention is a compound represented by the formula (VII):
• R '1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms
• the subject of the invention is a formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII), the radical R '1 represents a radical chosen from the radicals n- octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl.
• the subject of the invention is a formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII), X t + represents a cation chosen from:
• the subject of the invention is a formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII), the cation X t + represents a cation selected from sodium cations potassium, ammonium, N-ethylammonium, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethylammonium, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -triethylammonium, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ion ammonium or N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium.
• the subject of the invention is a formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII):
• the radical R '1 represents a radical chosen from the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl or n-hexadecyl radicals, and
• X + represents a cation selected from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, N-ethyl ammonium, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethylammonium, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -triethylammonium, N- ( 2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium.
• the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactant present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (VIII):
• R'2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms
• s represents a decimal number between 1 and 10, preferably between 2 and 4, r is an integer equal to 1 or 2 and
• Y represents the cation of an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, the ammonium ion, the hydroxyethyl ammonium ion, the tris (hydroxyethyl) ammonium ion.
• Y represents, for example, sodium, magnesium or ammonium ion.
• the subject of the invention is a formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VIII):
• the radical R '2 represents a radical chosen from the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl or n-hexadecyl radicals, and
• Y represents a cation selected from the cations of an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonium, N-ethyl ammonium, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethylammonium, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -triethylammonium, N- (2) hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium ion.
• foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants which may be present in the formulation (F2) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention
• the foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactant present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (IX):
• R'3-C (O) - represents for example the octanoyl radical, the decanoyl radical, the lauroyl radical, the cocoyl radical.
• R ' 4 and R' 5 represent a methyl radical.
• the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use object of the present invention can be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a device of "pump bottle” type, in a device provided with a perforated wall, for example a grid, in a device provided with a ball applicator (called “roll-on")
• the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use according to the invention as defined above can be applied in the form of fine droplets by means of mechanical or propellant pressurization devices
• propellants that can be combined with the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use according to the invention, there are hydrofluorinated compounds, such as dichlorodifluoromethane, trichlorofluoromethane, difluoroethane, isobutane, butane, propane.
• the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use as defined above may further comprise excipients and / or active ingredients usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical.
• the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use object of the present invention and as defined above, may further comprise one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickeners and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents , antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioners, deodorants, bleaching agents for hair and skin discoloration, active principles for providing a treating action and / or protective against the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners , repellents for insects.
• auxiliary compounds chosen from thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickeners and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents,
• water-soluble antioxidants that can be combined with the formulation (F2) for topical use according to the invention, there is ascorbic acid, glutathione, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.
• water-soluble sequestering agents that can be combined with the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use according to the invention, there are the salts of ethylenediamine tetracetic acid (EDTA), such as the sodium salt of EDTA , the salts of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) such as the sodium salts of DTPA, acetyl glutamic acid (Dissolvine range).
• EDTA ethylenediamine tetracetic acid
• DTPA diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
• Dissolvine range acetyl glutamic acid
• Tris citrate tetramethylhydroxy piperidinol
• benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulphonate sodium benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol.
• Examples of texturizing agents that may be present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, for example lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE TM. LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica, pearlite.
• active principles that may be present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, there are:
• Vitamins and their derivatives for example, retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in the form of salt and its esters, sugar derivatives of the ascorbic acid (eg ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (eg tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); - Compounds with a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, for example SEPIWHITE TM MSH, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, VEGEWHITE TM, GATULINE TM, SYNERLIGHT TM, BIOWHITE TM, PHYTOLIGHT TM, DERMALIGHT TM, CLARISKIN TM, MELASLOW TM, DERMAWHITE TM, ETHIOLINE, MELAREST TM, GIGAWHITE TM, ALBATINE TM,
• Vegetable extracts rich in polyphenols tannins and / or isoflavones for example grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; soy extracts, for example Raffermine TM; wheat extracts for example TENSINE TM or GLIADINE TM; plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals;
• Compounds having an energizing or stimulating property such as Physiogenyl TM, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP TM MP; - Anti-aging active ingredients like SEPILIFT TM DPHP, LIPACIDE TM PVB, SEPIVINOL TM, SEPIVITAL TM, MANOLIVA TM, PHYTO-AGE TM, TIMECODE TM; SURVICODE TM;
• the active agents increasing the synthesis of the components of the extracellular matrix, for example collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;
• Active ingredients that create a sensation of "heating” on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (for example nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a sensation of "freshness” on the skin (for example menthol and drifts) ;
• the active agents improving the cutaneous microcirculation for example the veinotonics; draining assets; decongestant active ingredients, for example extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, small holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow;
• the active agents acting as skin tightening agents for example vegetable protein hydrolysates, hydrolysates of marine origin such as hydrolysates of laminar extracts, hydrolysates of fish cartilages, marine elastin, the product marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name SESAFLASH TM, collagen solutions.
• Tanning agents or skin browning agents for example dihydroxyacetone, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose.
• deodorant agents that may be present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate and zinc chloride.
• quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts
• glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; Triclosan TM; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium octochlorohydrate, sulphate alumina, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum hydrochloride and glycol complexes, such as the aluminum and propylene glycol hydrochloride complex, the aluminum
• R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty .
• the polyelectrolytes polymers may be in the form of a solution, an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a powder, for example the products sold under the names SIMULGEL TM EG, SIMULGEL TM EPG, SEPIGEL TM 305, SIMULGEL TM 600, SIMULGEL TM NS, SIMULGEL TM INS 100, SIMULGEL TM FL, SIMULGEL TM A, SIMULGEL TM SMS 88, SEPINOV TM EMT 10, SEPIPLUS TM 400, SEPIPLUS TM 265, SEPIPLUS TM S, SEPIMAX TM Zen, ARISTOFLEX TM AVC, ARISTOFLEX TM AVS, NOVEMER TM EC-1, NOVEMER TM EC 2, ARIS
• waxes that may be present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, the wax of Japan, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature.
• waxes is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.
• esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol such as the products sold under the names MONTANE TM 40, MONTANE TM 60, MONTANE TM 70, MONTANE TM 80 and MONTANE TM 85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between five moles and one hundred and fifty moles of ethylene oxide, as the composition comprises stearic acid ethoxylated to one hundred and thirty-five moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL TM 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters; alkyl polyglycosides having a linear or branched aliphatic radical, saturated or uns
• protection agent against ultraviolet rays of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F2) for topical use object of the present invention, are meant pigments, solar organic filters and inorganic solar filters.
• pigments used as protection agent against the ultraviolet rays of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use object of the present invention, there are for example titanium dioxide, brown iron oxides, yellow iron oxides, black iron oxides, or red iron oxides, or white or colored pearlescent pigments such as Mica-Titanium.
• PABA para-aminobenzoic acids
• monoglycerol esters of PABA the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -propoxy PABA and the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -diethoxy
• PABA the esters ethers of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA;
• salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;
• cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, cinnamon cinnamate; p-methoxyisopropyl, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy-2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy-2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, cinnamate ethyl- ⁇ -cyano-3-phenyl, 2-ethylhexyl- ⁇ -cyano-3-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2
• benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4 methoxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxy benzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxy benzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) d, l-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate;
• sulphonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and its salts
• triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy), 3,5 triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2- benzoic acid ethylhexyl) ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazo
• inorganic solar filters used as a protective agent against ultraviolet rays of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use object of the present invention, there are for example: titanium oxides, zinc oxides , cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides.
• These inorganic screens may or may not be micronized, have undergone or not surface treatments and may be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.
• the subject of the invention is the use of a formulation (F 2 ) as defined above, for cleaning the skin, the hair, the scalp and the mucous membranes.
• the expression "to clean the skin, the hair, the scalp, the mucous membranes” means any action intended to allow the removal of dirt present on the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes of humans or animals.
• soiling on the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes of humans or animals include dust, dirt, sebaceous secretions, sweat, dandruff, dead cells, microorganisms or various chemical substances such as residues of make-up and skincare compositions, hair, scalp or mucous membranes.
• the subject of the invention is a method for cleaning the skin, the hair, the scalp and / or the mucous membranes, characterized in that it comprises:
• step b 2 At least one step b 2 ) rinsing said skin, said hair, said scalp or said mucous treated according to step a 2 ).
• step a 2 of the cleaning method that is the subject of the invention, the formulation (F 2 ) for topical use is applied to the surface of the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, including the stains to be cleaned by any means for example by application through a support consisting of synthetic or natural textile fibers, woven or non-woven, or paper, previously impregnated with said formulation (F 2 ) for topical use.
• step D2 of the cleaning method that is the subject of the invention the rinsing of the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes on which the formulation (F2) for topical use has been applied during step a ⁇ ) is made by spraying with water ,.
• Step D2) of the cleaning method that is the subject of the invention can be carried out at ambient temperature or at a temperature of between 20 ° C. and 40 ° C.
• cocoyl chloride which is a mixture of acid chlorides comprising, for 100% by weight, 8% by weight of octanoyl chloride and 8% by mass of chloride, are then gradually added with stirring; of decanoyl, 50% by weight of lauroyl chloride, 17% by weight of myristoyl chloride, 8% by weight of palmitoyl chloride, 3% by weight of stearoyl chloride, 4% by weight of oleoyl chloride and 2% by weight of linoleoyl, then an additional 10 kilograms of the 30% sodium hydroxide solution to maintain the pH between 11 and 12. The temperature is maintained between 20 ° C and 50 ° C for two hours.
• the mixture obtained is acidified by adding 65 kg of an aqueous solution of sulfuric acid at 70% by mass, then diluted with 75 kg of water to obtain an aqueous solution of disodium N-cocoylglutamate [composition (O)].
• composition (Ci) The analytical characteristics of the composition (Ci) are given in Table 1 below.
• Mass content of active ingredient (MAi) (cocoyl glutamate)
• the reaction medium is placed under partial vacuum of approximately 0.18x10 5 Pa (180mbar) and maintained at 100 ° C-105 ° C for four hours with distillation of the water formed.
• reaction mixture thus obtained is drained at 70 ° C. and filtered to remove unreacted glucose grains.
• the composition (C3) which comprises 50% by weight of water and 50% by weight of a mixture of alkyl polyglucosides (MAAPGI), for which the proportions of alkyl polyglucosides and the average degree of polymerization of their polyglucoside residue is determined by gas chromatography (GC); it thus comprises, for 100% by weight, 69% by weight of n-dodecyl polyglucosides, 25% by weight of n-tetradecyl polyglucosides and 6% by weight of n-hexacyl polyglucosides with a degree of polymerization equal to 1.25.
• MAAPGI mixture of alkyl polyglucosides
• GC gas chromatography
• the reaction medium is placed under partial vacuum of approximately 0.18x10 5 Pa (180mbar) and maintained at 100 ° C-105 ° C for four hours with distillation of the water formed.
• reaction mixture thus obtained is drained at 70 ° C. and filtered to remove unreacted glucose grains.
• the filtrate is then poured into another reactor and the excess of heptanol distilled under partial vacuum and the residue diluted in water.
• composition (C4) comprising 26.4% by weight of water and 73.6% by weight of n-heptyl polyglucosides (MAAPG2) is obtained, with a degree of polymerization, determined by GPC. equal to 1, 25.
• compositions (Fi) inv ., (F 2 ) inv., (F 3 ) inv are prepared. and (F 4 ) inv. according to the invention, and two compositions (F 5 ) com P. and (F 6 ) com P. comparative by pouring with stirring into a reactor maintained at 40 ° C, the composition (Ci) and at least one of the compositions (C3) or (C4). The mixture is stirred for thirty minutes to obtain one of the compositions (Fi) inv . to (F 4 ) inv. and (F 5 ) com P. and (F 6 ) com P ..
• Table 2 The quantities used are listed in the following Table 2:
• the evaluation of the foaming properties of the compositions tested is carried out by forming a foam, starting from a hard water solution OMS comprising a predetermined mass content of the compositions tested, by mechanical stirring at a temperature of 20 ° C.
• Aqueous solutions of 250 cm 3 are prepared so as to obtain solutions at 0.5% by weight of surfactant active material in WHO hard water, from the compositions
• Aqueous solutions of 250 cm 3 to 0.39% surfactant active material in "WHO" hard water are also prepared from the compositions (Ci), as well as an aqueous solution of 250 cm 3 to 0.1 1% surfactant active material in WHO hard water, from the composition (Ci).
• the WHO hard water contains, for one liter of deionized water, 0.403 grams of anhydrous calcium chloride and 0.139 grams of magnesium chloride hexahydrate; which gives it a hardness of 34 ° Th.
• Tf 0 i S The expansion time (Tf 0 i S ): it is the stirring time after which we observe the removal of the vortex in the beaker. Beyond this time, the foam completely surrounds the stem of the pale and its level is horizontal;
• the half-life time (T1 / 2): it is the time at the end of which the foam obtained from a certain volume of foaming solution, wrung out a quantity of solution corresponding to half of the initial volume. For this test, the half-life time is reached when the upper level of the dewatering water reaches the mark of 125 cm 3 on the beaker;
• the expansion rate (T F ) it is the value of the ratio between the volume of foam (V m ) produced by a foaming composition on the volume (V s ) of the foaming solution used (water and emulsifier) .
• compositions according to the invention make it possible to prepare foams having all the qualities required to be used in cosmetics, unlike those which are comparative.
• Constituent proportions are expressed as a percentage by mass.
• MONTALINE TM C40 is a monoethanolamine cocamidopropyl betainamide chloride salt.
• SEPITONIC TM M3 a mixture of magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate and copper gluconate, is an energizing active ingredient marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• KATHON TM CG a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, is a preservative marketed by the company Rohm & Haas.
• SEPICIDE TM HB a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• CAPIGEL TM 98 is a copolymer of acrylates marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• AMONYL TM 675SB is a cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine sold by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICAP TM MP is a mixture of N-cocoyl amino acids and potassium salt dimethicone PEG-7 panthenyl phosphate, marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICIDE TM Cl imidazoline urea, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.

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