EP3641724A1

EP3641724A1 - Novel surfactant mixture, novel composition comprising same and use thereof in cosmetics

Info

Publication number: EP3641724A1
Application number: EP18736982.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Marie-Françoise GAYRAL CHIRAC; Jérôme GUILBOT; Georges DACOSTA
Original assignee: Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Current assignee: Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Priority date: 2017-06-22
Filing date: 2018-05-22
Publication date: 2020-04-29
Also published as: US20200101001A1; WO2018234648A1; CN110996895A; JP2020524683A; FR3068043A1

Abstract

Method for improving the foaming properties of a cleansing formulation (F₁) for topical use comprising glutamate-based surfactants, comprising a step of incorporating into said formulation (F₁) an effective amount of at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition; aqueous formulation comprising same in combination with anionic or amphoteric surfactants; use thereof in cleansing the human or animal body.

Description

New surfactant mixture, novel composition comprising and use in cosmetics

The present invention relates to a novel process for improving the foaming properties of topical formulations, novel compositions for topical use, their use for cleaning skin, hair, scalp, mucous membranes, and a method of cleaning the skin human and animal, hair, scalp and mucous membranes.

The present invention finds application in the cosmetic and dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical human and veterinary field.

Cleansing formulations for the skin, hair, scalp and mucous membranes, and more generally body and hair care products presented in the form of shampoos, lotions, gels or liquid soaps, require the rapid formation of foam when applied to the part of the body to be cleaned. Indeed, in the mind of the consumer foam formation, in a timely manner, is one of the proofs of the effectiveness of cleaning. The speed of formation of the foam (or duration of expansion), the volume of this foam, its stability, as well as the pleasant sensations that it induces, are important parameters to take into account in order to hope for the commercial success of these formulations.

Cleaning formulations include cleansing and foaming surfactants, whether of cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic nature. These surfactants are said to be amphiphilic because they consist of a hydrophilic part (or polar head), soluble in water, and a lipophilic part (hydrophobic tail) which has an affinity with oils and greases. This amphiphilic structure makes it possible both to dissolve greasy soils and to eliminate them by a washing operation.

Anionic surfactants have historically been surfactants which have been used to prepare foaming cleansing formulations for topical use. Sulphated anionic surfactants are a class of surfactants frequently used because of their good foaming properties. These surfactants are known for their good cleaning power, and they also produce an aerated foam whose feel is not considered unpleasant by the consumer. However, these surfactants have the disadvantage of being sensitive to the degree of hardness of the water and the presence of greasy soils, which consequently leads to a decrease in the volume of foam initially generated by these formulations but especially a decrease in the stability over time of this volume of foam.

To improve the stability of the foams, a person skilled in the art of detergency knows that he can combine the foaming surfactants with one or more additives having the effect of increasing the rigidity of the foam-forming gas cells.

Thus, the French patent application published under No. 2 439 230 discloses the use of fatty amines as a foaming aid, aqueous solutions of surfactants such as alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates. The international application published under number WO03 / 035794 A1 teaches the increase of the stability of a foam obtained by the use of at least one aliphatic hydrocarbyl phosphate mono-ester by the addition of a stabilizing agent. foam; said foam being used in a method of drilling oil wells.

Mention may also be made of the use of fatty acids as foam stabilizing agents, whose aliphatic fatty chain comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in mass proportions greater than or equal to 10% by weight for 100% of the mass of said cleaning formulation for topical use.

However, the previously described foam stabilizing additives are often not very biodegradable and sometimes toxic, which makes them non-compliant with the new environmental requirements and regulations, and for application to the skin.

The French patent application published under the number 2,850,017 discloses a means for stabilizing cosmetic compositions in the form of foams by using fatty acids in small amounts, provided that this foam is obtained from a emulsion in the form of oil-in-water and to associate said fatty acids with sugar derivatives, and more particularly alkyl glycosides, said combination being described as "emulsifying". The fatty acids used in the French patent application published under number 2,850,017 are carboxylic fatty acids with a linear or branched aliphatic chain containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The alkyl glycosides used in the French patent application published under the number 2,850,017 are alkyl glycosides having emulsifying properties such as, for example, the emulsifying compositions sold under the tradenames MONTANOV ™ 68 (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside), MONTANOV. ™ 82 (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol and coco-glucoside), MONTANOV ™ L (INCI name: C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkyl glucoside). The French patent application published under the number 2,850,017 also discloses weight ratios of fatty acids to alkylpolyglucosides equal to 1/1, and do not disclose the necessity of associating N-acylamino acid type surfactants such as, for example, disodium or monosodium cocoyl glutamate.

New technical solutions have recently been developed to prepare surfactant compositions that generate stable foams without the addition of foam stabilizing additives. It is thus possible to cite the international application published under the publication number WO 2012/085391 A1, which discloses a method of drilling cavities in underground formations using an aqueous fluid in the form of a foam obtained by blending d a gas or a mixture of gas and an aqueous solution comprising an N-acyl derivative of glutamic acid, or a salt thereof, and / or aspartic acid, or of one of its salts, for which the acyl radical has from eight to eighteen carbon atoms. Foams generated by aqueous solutions comprising such N-acyl derivatives of glutamic acid, or a salt thereof, and / or aspartic acid, or a salt thereof, have both advantage of forming with an average expansion time and to show mechanical properties making them suitable for use in a step of removing cuttings during a drilling operation of underground cavities.

The US patent application published under the number US 2008/0233057 A1 describes gentle cleaning compositions comprising i) at least one surfactant of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, ii) at least one coloring agent, iii) at least one encapsulated coloring agent. The foaming surfactants included in this mild cleaning composition may be N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, for example sodium cocoyl glutamate, alkylpolyglycosides, for example alkylpolyglucosides whose alkyl chain may contain from 4 to 22 atoms. carbon, more particularly from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

The US patent application published under the number US 2004/0057922 A1 describes a cosmetic composition comprising for 100% of its mass i) from 2% to 50% by weight of at least one N-acylated amino acid derivative, and ii ) from 50% to 98% by weight of at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside. This US patent application published under the number US 2004/0057922 A1 also describes a comparative composition noted (C3) comprising the sodium salt of cocoyl glutamate and C12-16 alkylpolyglucoside in a weight ratio cocoyl sodium glutamate / C12-16 alkylpolyglucoside 3/1. This US patent application published under the number US 2004/0057922 A1 discloses the characterization of the foaming properties of the compositions according to the invention in question and the comparative composition (C3), thus showing that the foam generated by the composition (C3) is unstable; the volume of foam measured after 15 minutes after its formation being equal to zero.

The Japanese patent application published under the number JP2010-285397 describes compositions comprising at least one N-acyl glutamic surfactant, at least one N-acyl aspartic surfactant and at least one sugar-based surfactant selected from the group consisting of esters of sugar derivatives or alkylpolyglucosides. Of the alkylpolyglucoside surfactants which may be associated with the N-acyl glutamic surfactant and the N-acyl aspartic surfactant, the Japanese patent application JP2010-285397 expressly describes the alkylpolyglucosides whose alkyl chain comprises from 8 to 16 atoms. , and more particularly from 8 to 12 carbon atoms (JP2010-285397, paragraph [0022]). Such compositions are described as having good foaming characteristics (JP2010-285397, paragraph [0048]) and imparting high health and hairspring properties (JP2010-285397, paragraphs [0052], [0053], [0054] ).

The Japanese patent application published under the number JP-H-04-1 14100 describes compositions comprising an N-acyl aspartic acid salt and at least one alkylpolyglucoside whose alkyl chain comprises from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Such compositions are used to prepare cleaning formulations having good detergency, but also improved skin tolerance and imparting sensory properties of freshness to hair and skin.

The international patent application published under the number WO2015 / 122371 A1 describes cleaning compositions comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant and anionic surfactants, said anionic surfactants comprising at least one N-acylated derivative of the acid. glutamic acid and at least one alkyl ether of a carboxylic acid and at least one alkylsulfosuccinic acid. These compositions are described as generating a "rich" foam and characterized by good sensory properties (WO2015 / 122371 A1, page 21, paragraph [0064]).

It has also been observed by the Applicant that the properties of foams formed from aqueous solutions comprising N-acyl derivatives of glutamic acid or a salt thereof, and / or aspartic acid or a of its salts, necessary for the preparation of cleaning and foaming compositions for topical use, including the duration of expansion and the stability of the foam, showed variations from one batch of manufacture to another, making their effectiveness random. These observed variations are related to the variation of the mass proportion of residual fatty acids and / or the mass content in inorganic salts present in solutions of N-acyl derivatives of glutamic acid, or a salt thereof, and / or aspartic acid, or a salt thereof, inherent in the implementation of their methods of preparation, the essential steps and essential operating parameters of which remain constant and unchanged.

There remains a need to have an aqueous cleaning composition for topical use-spreading easily on the skin, without leaving a residual film greasy or sticky on the skin, which is capable of inducing the formation of a stable foam and having a rapid expansion time.

Therefore, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a process for improving the foaming properties of a cleaning formulation for topical use (Fi) comprising for 100% of its mass from 0.5% to 10% by mass. , more particularly from 1% to 10% by mass and even more particularly from 1% to 8% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(a) - from 65% to 90% by weight, more particularly from 65% to 85% by weight and especially from 65% to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I):

R 1 -C (= O) -NH-CH (COOH) - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -COOH (I) in acid form, partially or totally salified in which the RrC (= O) - group represents a linear or branched acyl radical saturated or unsaturated, having from eight to eighteen carbon atoms, and

(β) - From 10% to 35% by weight, more particularly from 15% to 35% by weight, and especially from 20% to 35% by weight of at least one compound of formula (II):

RrC (= O) -OH (II)

in acid form, partially or totally salified, in which the group R 1 is as defined for the formula (I), said process being characterized in that it comprises a step a1) of incorporation into said formulation (Fi) of an effective amount of at least one composition (C2) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(γ) - From 14% to 80% by weight of a composition (C3) or a mixture of compositions (C3), said composition (C3) being represented by formula (III):

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) _P -H (III)

in which R3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, G3 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to at 5, said composition (C3) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (III1), (Mb), (M is), (NU) and (II l ₅ ):

R ₃ -0- (G ₃ ) ₅ - ^■ H (l Is)

in the respective molar proportions a ₁ , a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such that:

the sum: ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1, and

the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to p;

(δ) - From 0% to 3% by weight of at least one alcohol of formula (IV):

R ₃ -OH (IV)

in which R ₃ is as defined for the formula (I II) above,

(ε) - From 20% to 80% of a composition (C ₄ ) or a mixture of compositions (C ₄ ), said composition (C ₄ ) being represented by formula (V):

R ₄ -0- (G ₄ ) _q -H (V)

in which R ₄ represents a linear aliphatic radical chosen from butyl, pentyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals, G ₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C ₄ ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (V1), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V) and (Vs):

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₂ -H (V ₂ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₃ -H (V ₃ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₄ -H (V ₄ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₅ -H (V ₅ ),

in the respective molar proportions a ' ₁ , a' ₂ , a ' ₃ , a' ₄ and a 's, such that:

the sum: a'i + a ' ₂ + a' ₃ + a ' ₄ + a's is equal to 1, and

the sum a'1 + 2a ' ₂ + 3a' ₃ + 4a ' ₄ + 5a's is equal to q; and

(η) - From 0% to 3% by weight of at least one alcohol of formula (VI):

R -OH (VI)

wherein R ₄ is as defined for the above formula (V).

By "effective amount of at least one composition (C ₂ )" is meant in the definition of the process which is the subject of the invention the quantity of said composition (C ₂ ) such that once incorporated in the formulation (F1), it leads to a final formulation obtained by said process which:

generates a foam height greater than or equal to 130 mm, 30 minutes after its formation according to the operating conditions described in section 4 of the experimental part of this disclosure;

- shows a half-life, determined according to the method described in section 4 of the experimental part of this presentation, greater than or equal to 30 minutes;

- shows an expansion time, determined according to the method described in section 4 of the experimental part of this presentation, less than or equal to 25 seconds

- shows a degree of expansion greater than or equal to 4 and less than or equal to 20.

The expansion rate (T _F ) is the ratio between the volume of foam produced by a foaming composition on the volume of the foaming solution used. Therefore, the higher the rate of expansion, the more the foam is light and its large volume, not allowing easy spreading on the skin.

By compounds of formula (I) or (II) in acid form, partially or totally salified, it is meant that in the context of the present invention one, more or all of the carboxyl functions present in one or other of the said compounds of formula (I) or (II) is either in acid form (-COOH) or in salified form (-COO ^" M ⁺ ) In the latter case M ⁺ represents a monovalent cation chosen from:

- The ammonium cation,

Monovalent cations of alkali metals, for example sodium (Na ⁺ ), potassium (K ⁺ ) or lithium (Li ⁺ ) cation,

The (hydroxyalkyl) ammonium, bis (hydroxyalkyl) ammonium or tris (hydroxyalkyl) ammonium cations in which the hydroxyalkyl radical or radicals contain from one to four carbon atoms, for example the 2-hydroxyethanammonium, 2-hydroxypropanammonium, bis cations; (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium and tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium,

The (alkyloxyalkyl) ammonium, bis (alkyloxyalkyl) ammonium or tris (alkyloxyalkyl) ammonium cations in which the alkyloxyalkyl radical or radicals contain from two to six carbon atoms, for example the 2-ethoxyethanammonium cation,

The (hydroxyalkylaminoalkyl) ammonium, bis (hydroxyalkylaminoalkyl) ammonium or tris (hydroxyalkylaminoalkyl) ammonium cations, in which the hydroxyalkylaminoalkyl radical or groups contain from two to six carbon atoms, for example the 2-hydroxyethylaminomethanammonium cation and the 2-hydroxy cation; éthylaminoéthanammonium. By residue of a reducing sugar, in the definition of the radicals (G3) and (G4), formulas (II I) and (V) as defined above are designated, the remainder of saccharide derivatives without a glycosidic bond established between an anomeric carbon. and oxygen of an acetal group, as defined in the reference work: "Biochemistry, Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990."

Oligomeric structures (G3) and _P (L ₄₎ _q may be in any form of isomerism, whether optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or position isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.

In the formula (II I) as defined above, the group R3 is bonded to G3 by the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function. Similarly, in the formula (V) as defined above, the R ₄ group is bonded to G ₄ by the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.

According to a particular aspect of the process as defined above, respectively in formula (II I) and in formula (IV), G 3 and G _4, which are identical or different independently of each other the radical of a sugar reducing agent glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose.

By linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from twelve to sixteen carbon atoms, R ₃ is especially designated in formulas (III) and (IV):

- a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl (n-Ci2H25-), tetradecyl (n-Cl ₄ H ₂ 9) and hexadecyl (n-CIEH -)

A branched alkyl radical resulting from iso-alkanols of formula (1):

(CH 3) (CH ₃ ) CH- (CH ₂ ) rCH ₂ -OH (1)

in which r represents an integer of between 8 and 16, for example the isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl or isohexadecyl radical;

A branched alkyl radical derived from a Guerbet alcohol of formula (2):

CH (C _s H2s ₊ i) (CtH2t ₊ 1) -CH ₂ -OH (2)

in which t is an integer between 2 and 12, s is an integer between 2 and 14 and the sum s + t is greater than or equal to 10, and less than or equal to 14, for example the 2-ethyl radical decyl, 2-butyl octyl, 2-ethyl dodecyl, 2-butyl decyl, 2-hexyl octyl, 2-hexyl decyl or 2-butyl dodecyl. According to a particular aspect, said method for improving the foaming properties of a cleaning formulation for topical use (Fi) is characterized in that in said composition (C2) the proportions of alcohol of formula (VI) are zero.

According to another particular aspect of the process which is the subject of the present invention, the compounds of formula (I) and of formula (II) are partially or completely salified in the form of sodium salt or of potassium salt.

According to another particular aspect, the composition (Ci) as defined above comprises, for 100% of its mass, from 65% to 90% by weight of one or more compounds of formula (I) and from 10% to 35% by mass. one or more compounds of formula (II); and more particularly from 65% to 85% by weight of one or more compounds of formula (I) and from 15% to 35% by weight of one or more compounds of formula (II).

In the formulas (I) and (II), as defined above, the radical is more particularly an acyl radical selected from octanoyl, decanoyl, ω-undecylenoyl, dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, 9-octadecenoyl, 9,12-octadecadienoyl and 9,12,15-octadecatrienenoyl.

The compounds of formulas (I) as described above are generally obtained by N-acylation of the corresponding amino acids or their salts. It is described for example in the international application published under the number WO 98/0961 1. It is implemented indifferently on an amino acid or on a mixture of amino acids. The acylating agent generally consists of an activated derivative of the carboxylic acid of formula:

RRC (= 0) -OH,

wherein R 1 is as previously defined, such as a symmetrical anhydride of this acid, the methyl ester of this acid, or an acid halide such as acid chloride or acid bromide. It can also consist of a mixture of activated derivatives of carboxylic acids derived from natural oils or fats of animal or vegetable origin such as coconut oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, soya oil, rapeseed oil , corn, beef tallow, spermaceti oil or herring oil.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is said process as defined above, characterized in that said composition (Ci) is obtained by a process comprising at least:

a step A) of acylation of a compound of formula (VII):

NH ₂ -CH (COOH) - (CH ₂ ) 2 -COOH (VII), in acid form, partially or totally salified, with a mixture of acid chlorides comprising, for 100 mol%, from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of dodecanoyl chloride, from 10 mol% to 20 mol% of tetradecanoyl chloride, from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of decanoyl chloride, and 5 mol% to 15 mol% of octanoyl chloride, and optionally up to 100 mol% of hexadecanoyl chloride and / or chloride of octadecanoyl and / or 9-octadecenoyl chloride and / or octadeca-9,12-dienoyl chloride.

In a more particular aspect, the mixture of acid chlorides used comprises, for 100 mol%, 11 mol% of octanoyl chloride, 9.5 mol% of decanoyl chloride, 51 mol% of dodecanoyl chloride, , 5 mol% of tetradecanoyl chloride, 6.5 mol% of hexadecanoyl chloride, 2 mol% of octadecanoyl chloride, 3 mol% of 9-octadecenoyl chloride and 1.5% of octadeca-9 chloride. , 12-dienoyl.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is said process as defined above, characterized in that the compound (s) of formula (I) are chosen from monosodium N-cocoyl glutamate and N-cocoyl glutamate, N -cocoyl disodium glutamate and dipotassium N-cocoyl glutamate.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises for 100% of its mass:

(γ) - a mass proportion in said composition (C3) greater than or equal to 14% and less than 70%, and

(δ) - a mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (IV) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%,

(ε) - a mass proportion in said composition (C ₄ ) greater than or equal to 30% and less than or equal to 80%, and

(η) - A mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (VI) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%.

According to a still more particular aspect, the subject of the invention is said process as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) as defined above comprises, for 100% of its mass, a mass proportion in said composition (C3) greater than or equal to 14% and less than or equal to 65%, a mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (IV) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%, a mass proportion of said composition (C ₄ ) greater than or equal to 35% to and less than or equal to 80% and a mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (VI) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in said formula (III), G3 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and lithium. arabinose.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in said formula (III), p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that formulas (III) and (IV), the radical R3 represents a linear alkyl radical chosen from dodecyl radicals (n-C12H). 5- _2), tetradecyl _(n-2 Ci4H 9) and n-hexadecyl (n-Ci6H ₃ 2-).

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in formula (V), G4 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the method as defined above, characterized in that in the formula (V), q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5 , more preferably greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that in formulas (V) and (VI), R ₄ represents a linear alkyl radical chosen from hexyl radicals. and heptyl (n-C7Hi ₅ -).

According to an even more particular aspect, in the formulas (V) and (VI), R ₄ represents the heptyl radical (n-C7Hi ₅ -).

According to another even more particular aspect, in the formulas (V) and (VI), R ₄ represents the n-hexyl (n-CeH-) radical.

According to another particular aspect, the invention relates to the method as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) and compositions (C _4), said mixture comprising per 100% of its mass: (γι) - From 13.6% to 44.4% by weight, more particularly from 17% to 44.4% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the dodecyl radical (n -Ci2H25-)

(Y2) - From 5% to 16.25% by weight, more particularly from 6.25% to 16.25% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the tetradecyl radical (n 9- -Ci4H _2), and

(Y3) - From 1.4% to 4.55% by weight, more particularly from 1.75% to 4.55% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the hexadecyl radical (n-Ci6H ₃ 2-), and

(ει) - From 35% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 35% by mass to 75% by weight, of a composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V) in which R ₄ represents the heptyl radical (n-C 7 H 15) ).

According to another particular aspect, the invention relates to the method as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) and compositions (C _4), said mixture comprising per 100% of its mass:

From 13.6% to 44.4% by weight, more particularly from 17% to 44.4% by weight, of a composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the dodecyl radical (n-C12H); ₂ 5-),

From 5% to 16.25% by weight, more particularly from 6.25% to 16.25% by weight, of a composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the tetradecyl radical (n-Ci); ₄ H ₂ 9-), and

From 1.4% to 4.55% by weight, more particularly from 1.75% to 4.55% by weight, of a composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the hexadecyl radical (n -Ci6H ₃ 2-), and

from 35% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 35% to 75% by weight, of a composition (C ₄ ) represents, by the formula (V) in which R ₄ represents the radical, the 2-ethyl hexyl radical.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) comprising for 100% of its mass:

From 13.6% to 44.4% by weight, more particularly from 17% to 44.4% by weight, of a composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the dodecyl radical (n-C12H); ₂ 5-), From 5% to 16.25% by weight, more particularly from 6.25% to 16.25% by weight, of a composition (C3) represented by formula (III) in which R3 represents the tetradecyl radical (n-Cul); -bg-), and

from 35% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 35% to 75% by weight, of a composition (C4) represented by the formula (V) in which R4 represents the n-hexadecyl radical (n- According to a more particular aspect the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (III), G3 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose, p represents a higher decimal number or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2, 0, and R ₃ represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl _(n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl _(n-2 Ci4H 9) and hexadecyl (n-Ci6H ₃ 2-).

According to a still more particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (III), G3 represents the rest of the glucose, p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2 , 5, and R ₃ represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl _(n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl _(n-2 Ci4H 9) and hexadecyl (n-Ci6H32-).

According to another more particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (III) G3 represents the rest of the xylose, p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2, 5, and R ₃ represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl _(n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl radical (n-C14H29-), and the hexadecyl radical (n-CIEH -).

According to another more particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in the formula (V), G4 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0, and R ₄ represents an aliphatic alkyl radical selected from hexyl (n-CeHis-), heptyl radical (n-C7Hi ₅ -) and (2-ethylhexyl). According to a still more particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in the formula (V), G4 represents the rest of the glucose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2 , 5, and R4 represents an aliphatic alkyl radical selected from hexyl (n-CeHis-), heptyl (n-C7Hi ₅ -) and (2-ethyl-hexyl).

According to a still more particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in the formula (V), G4 represents the rest of the glucose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2 , 5, and R ₄ represents the radical heptyl (n-C7Hi ₅ -).

According to another even more particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (V), G4 represents the rest of the xylose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5, and R4 represents an aliphatic alkyl radical selected from hexyl radicals heptyl (n-C7H15-) and (2-ethylhexyl).

According to a very particular aspect, the process as defined above is characterized in that in formula (V), G4 represents the rest of xylose, q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2, 5, and R ₄ represents the radical heptyl (n-C7Hi ₅ -).

According to a still more particular aspect, the process as defined above, is characterized in that the composition (C3) is obtained by the implementation of a process comprising at least one glycosylation step A ') of:

One to five molar equivalents, more particularly from two to four molar equivalents, more particularly from three to four molar equivalents, of a mixture of alcohols comprising for 100 mol%:

from 40% to 90% by mole of dodecanol-1, more particularly from 65% to 90% by mole, and even more particularly from 75% to 90% by mole,

from 9% to 40% by mole of tetradecanol-1, more particularly from 9% to 20% by mole, and still more particularly from 9% to 20% by mole, and

from 1 mol% to 20 mol% of hexadecanol-1, more particularly from 1% to 15 mol%, and even more particularly from 1% to 5 mol%,

With a molar equivalent of a reducing sugar of formula (VII):

HO- (G ₃ ) -H (VII)

wherein G3 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar selected from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose. According to another particular aspect, the process as defined above, is characterized in that the composition (C4) is obtained by the implementation of a process comprising at least one glycosylation step of:

One to four molar equivalents, more particularly one to three molar equivalents, still more particularly two to three molar equivalents of at least one alcohol of formula (VI), with one molar equivalent of a reducing sugar of formula (VIII) ):

HO- (G ₄ ) -H (VIII)

wherein G4 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar selected from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.

According to another particular aspect, the process as defined above, is characterized in that the composition (C3) is obtained by the implementation of a process comprising at least one glycosylation step A 'generally carried out with mechanical stirring, by contacting a molar equivalent of a reducing sugar (G3) with from one to five molar equivalents of the mixture of dodecanol-1, tetradecanol-1, and hexadecanol-1, as described above, in presence of an acidic catalyst system, under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions.

Similarly, step Ai 'of the process for preparing the composition (C4), as defined above, is generally carried out with mechanical stirring, by bringing into contact a molar equivalent of a reducing sugar (G4) with from one to four molar equivalents of at least one alcohol of formula (V), in the presence of an acidic catalyst system, under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions.

Such temperature and partial vacuum conditions are, for example, temperature values between 70 ° C. and 130 ° C., and a partial vacuum of between 300 mbar (3.10 ⁴ Pa) and 20 mbar (2.10 ³ Pa). Carrying out step A 'and the Α-glycosylation step respectively makes it possible to form the composition (C3), or a mixture of compounds represented by formulas (III1), (Mb), (Mb), (NU ) and (III ₅ ) as defined above, and optionally an excess of the alcohol of formula (IV) or the mixture of alcohols of formula (IV), and the composition (C4), a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (V1), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ) as defined above, and optionally an excess of the alcohol of formula (VI).

If necessary or if desired, step A or step Ai 'of the respective method for preparing compositions (C3) and _(C4) as defined above, respectively can be followed by a step B' or a step Β- elimination of alcohols respectively of formula (IV), or of the mixture of alcohols of formula (IV), and of formula (VI), unreacted during step A ') or of step A'.

Such a preparation process can be completed, if necessary or if desired, by neutralization, filtration and bleaching operations.

By acidic catalyst system, in step A 'and in step Ai' of the process defined above, it is meant strong acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, methanesulfonic acid, (para-toluene) sulfonic acid, (trifluoromethane) sulfonic acid, hypophosphorous acid, hyponitrous acid, polyphosphoric acid, or ion exchange resins.

During step B ') or step ΒΊ) of the process as described above, the alcohols respectively of formula (IV), or the mixture of alcohols of formula (IV), or the alcohol of formula (V) are removed by methods known to those skilled in the art such as, for example, by distillation, such as hard thin-film distillation, molecular distillation or solvent extraction.

According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above which is characterized in that, the mass ratio

Δ = mass of compound (s) of formula (I) / [mass of composition (C3) + mass of composition (C4)], is greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 65/35, plus especially greater than or equal to 25/75 and less than or equal to 65/35.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above which is characterized in that, the mass ratio

Δ 1 = mass of the composition (C3) / mass of the composition (C ₄ ) is greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 70/30, more particularly greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 65/35, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 25/75 and less than or equal to 65/35.

The subject of the invention is also a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% by weight:

a) - from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 1% by weight to 10% by mass, and even more particularly from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(a) - from 65% to 90% by weight, more particularly from 65% by weight to 85% by weight, and even more particularly from 65% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I):

R 1 -C (= O) -NH-CH (COOH) - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -COOH (I) in acid form, partially or totally salified in which the group RrC (= O) - represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical containing from eight to eighteen carbon atoms, and

(β) - From 10% to 35% by weight, more particularly from 15% by weight to 35% by mass, and even more particularly from 20% by weight to 35% by weight of at least one compound of formula (II):

in acid form, partially or totally salified, in which the group R 1 is as defined for the formula (I),

b) from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight of at least one composition (C2) such as as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, and

c) from 3.4% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 3.9% by weight to 20% by weight, and even more particularly from 4% by weight to 17% by weight of at least one foaming and / or detergent surfactant; selected from foaming surfactants and / or anionic or amphoteric detergents, and

d) - from 60% to 96% by weight, more particularly from 65% by weight to 95% by weight, and even more particularly from 70% by weight to 94.5% by weight of water.

The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of the formulation as defined above, means that said cleaning formulation is implemented by application to the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes, that it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical cleaning formulation or an indirect application, for example in the case of a personal hygiene formulation in the form of a wipe textile or paper or sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin or the mucous membranes.

Foaming and / or detergent surfactants are defined in the definition of the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above, the compounds of amphiphilic structure which are used to generate foam in aqueous solution and / or allow the cleaning of the soils of human skin, and more particularly foaming surfactants and / or anionic and / or amphoteric detergents.

As examples of foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants optionally present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts of alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alkylcarboxylates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyllactylates.

According to one particular aspect, the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactant present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention is a compound represented by the formula (VII):

[R'-O-S03 ^" ] t, X ^{t +} (VII)

in which :

R '1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

- 1 representing an integer equal to 1 or 2 or 3,

- X ^{t +} represents a cation of valence t,

or a mixture of compounds of formula (VII),

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII), the radical R '1 represents a radical chosen from the radicals n- octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII), X ^{t +} represents a cation chosen from:

i) When t is equal to 1, the alkali metal cations, the ammonium ion, the ammonium ion of an N-alkylamino, the ammonium ion of an N- (hydroxyalkyl) amine,

ii) When t is equal to 2, the cations of an alkaline earth metal and

iii) When t is equal to 3, the cations of aluminum or boron.

According to another more particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII), the cation X ^{t +} represents a cation selected from sodium cations potassium, ammonium, N-ethylammonium, Ν, Ν-diethylammonium, Ν, Ν, Ν-triethylammonium, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ion ammonium or N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium. According to a more particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VII):

the radical R '1 represents a radical chosen from the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl or n-hexadecyl radicals, and

X ⁺ represents a cation selected from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, N-ethyl ammonium, Ν, Ν-diethylammonium, Ν, Ν, Ν-triethylammonium, N- ( 2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium.

According to another particular aspect, the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactant present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (VIII):

[R'-O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) sSO ₃ ] rY (VIII) in which:

R'2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

s represents a decimal number between 1 and 10, preferably between 2 and 4, r is an integer equal to 1 or 2 and

Y represents the cation of an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, the ammonium ion, the hydroxyethyl ammonium ion, the tris (hydroxyethyl) ammonium ion.

In formula (VIII) as defined above, Y represents, for example, sodium, magnesium or ammonium ion.

According to a more particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above for which, in the definition of compound (VIII):

the radical R '2 represents a radical chosen from the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl or n-hexadecyl radicals, and

Y represents a cation selected from the cations of an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonium, N-ethyl ammonium, Ν, Ν-diethylammonium, Ν, Ν, Ν-triethylammonium, N- (2) hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium ion.

As examples of foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants which may be present in the formulation (F2) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylisulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates. According to one particular aspect, the foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactant present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention is a compound of formula (IX):

R ' ₃ -C (O) -NH (CH 2) _q -N ⁺ (R' ₄ ) (R ' ₅ ) - (CH ₂ ) v -CO 2 - (IX) in which R' ₃ represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, R'4 and R ' ₅ represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical, optionally substituted with a group hydroxyl, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, q represents an integer between 2 and 6, and v represents an integer equal to 1 or 2, or a mixture of compounds of formula (IX).

In the formula (IX) as defined above, R'3-C (O) - represents for example the octanoyl radical, the decanoyl radical, the lauroyl radical, the cocoyl radical.

In the formula (IX) as defined above, q is for example equal to 3.

In the formula (IX) as defined above, R ' ₄ and R' ₅ represent a methyl radical.

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, it relates to a formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use for which the foaming amphoteric surfactant and / or detergent of formula (IX) is cocamidopropryl betaine.

The formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use object of the present invention can be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a device of "pump bottle" type, in a device provided with a perforated wall, for example a grid, in a device provided with a ball applicator (called "roll-on") When packaged in bottles, the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use according to the invention as defined above can be applied in the form of fine droplets by means of mechanical or propellant pressurization devices Among the propellants that can be combined with the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use according to the invention, there are hydrofluorinated compounds, such as dichlorodifluoromethane, trichlorofluoromethane, difluoroethane, isobutane, butane, propane.

The formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use as defined above may further comprise excipients and / or active ingredients usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical.

The formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use object of the present invention and as defined above, may further comprise one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickeners and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents , antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioners, deodorants, bleaching agents for hair and skin discoloration, active principles for providing a treating action and / or protective against the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners , repellents for insects.

Among the water-soluble antioxidants that can be combined with the formulation (F2) for topical use according to the invention, there is ascorbic acid, glutathione, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

Among the water-soluble sequestering agents that can be combined with the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use according to the invention, there are the salts of ethylenediamine tetracetic acid (EDTA), such as the sodium salt of EDTA , the salts of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) such as the sodium salts of DTPA, acetyl glutamic acid (Dissolvine range).

Among the water-soluble dyes that can be combined with the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use according to the invention, there is caramel, Yellow 5, Acid Blue 9 / Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3 / Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4 / Food Red 1, Yellow 6, Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12, Red 40, Carmine Cochineal (Cl 15850, Cl 75470), the Ext. Violet 2, Red 6-7, Ferrie Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Yellow 3 / Yellow 10 Acid, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10.

Among the water-soluble color-stabilizing agents that can be combined with the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use according to the invention, there is Tris citrate (tetramethylhydroxy piperidinol), benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulphonate sodium, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol.

Examples of texturizing agents that may be present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, for example lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE ™. LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO ™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica, pearlite. As examples of active principles that may be present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, there are:

- Vitamins and their derivatives, for example, retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in the form of salt and its esters, sugar derivatives of the ascorbic acid (eg ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (eg tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); - Compounds with a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, for example SEPIWHITE ™ MSH, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, VEGEWHITE ™, GATULINE ™, SYNERLIGHT ™, BIOWHITE ™, PHYTOLIGHT ™, DERMALIGHT ™, CLARISKIN ™, MELASLOW ™, DERMAWHITE ™, ETHIOLINE, MELAREST ™, GIGAWHITE ™, ALBATINE ™, LUMISKIN ™;

Compounds with a soothing action such as SEPICALM ™ S, allantoin and bisabolol;

- anti-inflammatory agents;

- Compounds showing a moisturizing action, for example diglycerol, triglycerol, urea, hydroxyureas, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, erythritylglucoside, sorbitylglucoside, xylitylglucoside, the product sold under the brand name AQUAXYL ™ comprising xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol and xyllitol;

- Compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM ™, ADIPOLESS ™;

- Vegetable extracts rich in polyphenols tannins and / or isoflavones, for example grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; soy extracts, for example Raffermine ™; wheat extracts for example TENSINE ™ or GLIADINE ™; plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals;

- Compounds with an antimicrobial action or a purifying action, for example LIPACIDE ™ C8G, LIPACIDE ™ UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5; OCTOPIROX ™ or SENSIVA ™ SC50;

Compounds having an energizing or stimulating property such as Physiogenyl ™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP ™ MP; - Anti-aging active ingredients like SEPILIFT ™ DPHP, LIPACIDE ™ PVB, SEPIVINOL ™, SEPIVITAL ™, MANOLIVA ™, PHYTO-AGE ™, TIMECODE ™; SURVICODE ™;

- Active anti-aging photo;

The active agents increasing the synthesis of the components of the extracellular matrix, for example collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;

- Assets acting favorably on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical as integrins;

- Active ingredients that create a sensation of "heating" on the skin, such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (for example nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a sensation of "freshness" on the skin (for example menthol and drifts) ;

The active agents improving the cutaneous microcirculation, for example the veinotonics; draining assets; decongestant active ingredients, for example extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, small holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow;

the active agents acting as skin tightening agents, for example vegetable protein hydrolysates, hydrolysates of marine origin such as hydrolysates of laminar extracts, hydrolysates of fish cartilages, marine elastin, the product marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name SESAFLASH ™, collagen solutions.

Tanning agents or skin browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose.

As examples of deodorant agents that may be present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate and zinc chloride. zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; Triclosan ™; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium octochlorohydrate, sulphate alumina, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum hydrochloride and glycol complexes, such as the aluminum and propylene glycol hydrochloride complex, the aluminum dihydrochloride complex and the propylene glycol dihydrochloride complex, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum dihydrochloride and polyethylene glycol, the complex of sesquichlorohydrate aluminum and polyethylene glycol.

Examples of thickening or gelling agents that may be present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include polyelectrolytes, linear or branched or crosslinked polymers, such as the homopolymer of acrylic acid. partially or fully salified, the homopolymer of partially or totally salified methacrylic acid, the homopolymer of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or fully salified, copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinyipyrolidone and AMPS, copolymers of AMPS and acrylate (2-hydroxyethyl) copolymers of AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and Ν, Ν-dimethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and tris (hydroxy - methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate , copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and THAM, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and N, N-dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and THAM, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and Ν, Ν-dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, of AMPS and acrylamide, the copolymers of the acid acrylic or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the copolymers of AMPS and of alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer having a strong acid function, free, partially salified or totally salified, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (VIII): CH2 = C (R'3) -C (= O) - [CH2 -CH2-0] n-R'4 (VIII)

in which R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty .

The polyelectrolytes polymers, linear or branched or crosslinked that can be associated with the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use object of the present invention, may be in the form of a solution, an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a powder, for example the products sold under the names SIMULGEL ™ EG, SIMULGEL ™ EPG, SEPIGEL ™ 305, SIMULGEL ™ 600, SIMULGEL ™ NS, SIMULGEL ™ INS 100, SIMULGEL ™ FL, SIMULGEL ™ A, SIMULGEL ™ SMS 88, SEPINOV ™ EMT 10, SEPIPLUS ™ 400, SEPIPLUS ™ 265, SEPIPLUS ™ S, SEPIMAX ™ Zen, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVC, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVS, NOVEMER ™ EC-1, NOVEMER ™ EC 2, ARISTOFLEX ™ HMB, COSMEDIA ™ SP, FLOCARE ™ AND 25, FLOCARE ™ AND 75, FLOCARE ™ AND 26, FLOCARE ™ AND 30, FLOCARE ™ AND 58, FLOCARE ™ PSD 30, VISCOLAM ™ AT 64, VISCOLAM ™ AT 100; polysaccharides consisting solely of odds, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans originating from cassia gum (DS = 1/5), locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS) = 1/3), guar gum (DS = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1); polysaccharides consisting of oste derivatives, such as sulphated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly alginines, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oste and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of arabic gum and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans; cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes.

As examples of oils that may be present in the formulation (F2) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of mineral oils such as paraffin oil, liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins or mineral white oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane, vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, coriander seed oil, pit oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, olive oil avocado, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables, ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, lanolic acid derived esters, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly (alpha-olefin), polyolefins such as polyisobutane ) synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones and fatty acids, modified silicones, polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups. By "oils" is meant herein the compounds and / or the mixtures of water-insoluble compounds having a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C.

As examples of waxes that may be present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, the wax of Japan, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature. By "waxes" is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C. Examples of emulsifiable nonionic surfactants that may be combined with the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol, such as the products sold under the names MONTANE ™ 40, MONTANE ™ 60, MONTANE ™ 70, MONTANE ™ 80 and MONTANE ™ 85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between five moles and one hundred and fifty moles of ethylene oxide, as the composition comprises stearic acid ethoxylated to one hundred and thirty-five moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL ™ 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters; alkyl polyglycosides having a linear or branched aliphatic radical, saturated or unsaturated, and having from fourteen to thirty six carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, (2-octyl dodecyl) polyxyloside, (12-hydroxy stearyl) polyglucoside; linear or branched fatty alcohol compositions, saturated or unsaturated, and containing from fourteen to thirty-six carbon atoms, and alkyl polyglycosides as described above, for example the compositions sold under the tradenames MONTANOV ™ 68, MONTANOV ™ 14, MONTANOV ™ 82, MONTANOV ™ 202, MONTANOV ™ S, MONTANOV ™ W018, MONTANOV ™ L, FLUIDANOV ™ 20X and EASYNOV ™.

As examples of protection agent against ultraviolet rays of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F2) for topical use object of the present invention, are meant pigments, solar organic filters and inorganic solar filters.

As pigments used as protection agent against the ultraviolet rays of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use object of the present invention, there are for example titanium dioxide, brown iron oxides, yellow iron oxides, black iron oxides, or red iron oxides, or white or colored pearlescent pigments such as Mica-Titanium.

As solar organic filters used as a protective agent against ultraviolet radiation of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use object of the present invention, there are for example:

Those of the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of Ν, Ν-propoxy PABA and the ethyl esters of Ν, Ν-diethoxy; PABA, the esters ethers of Ν, Ν-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of Ν, Ν-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of Ν, Ν-dimethyl PABA;

Those of the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate;

Those of the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;

Those of the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, cinnamon cinnamate; p-methoxyisopropyl, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy-2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy-2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, cinnamate ethyl-α-cyano-3-phenyl, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-3-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate;

Those of the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4 methoxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxy benzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxy benzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) d, l-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate;

Those of the family of sulphonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy), 3,5 triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2- benzoic acid ethylhexyl) ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4 "-t-butylbenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy benzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) 1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6 tri-2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate diphenylacrylate such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate;

- Those of the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene malonate siloxane. As inorganic solar filters used as a protective agent against ultraviolet rays of the sun possibly present in the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use object of the present invention, there are for example: titanium oxides, zinc oxides , cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides. These inorganic screens may or may not be micronized, have undergone or not surface treatments and may be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.

According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a formulation (F ₂ ) as defined above, for cleaning the skin, the hair, the scalp and the mucous membranes.

The expression "to clean the skin, the hair, the scalp, the mucous membranes" means any action intended to allow the removal of dirt present on the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes of humans or animals. Examples of soiling on the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes of humans or animals include dust, dirt, sebaceous secretions, sweat, dandruff, dead cells, microorganisms or various chemical substances such as residues of make-up and skincare compositions, hair, scalp or mucous membranes.

According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a method for cleaning the skin, the hair, the scalp and / or the mucous membranes, characterized in that it comprises:

At least one step ₂ ) of applying the formulation (F ₂ ) as defined above to the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes, followed by

- At least one step b ₂ ) rinsing said skin, said hair, said scalp or said mucous treated according to step a ₂ ).

In step a ₂ ) of the cleaning method that is the subject of the invention, the formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use is applied to the surface of the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, including the stains to be cleaned by any means for example by application through a support consisting of synthetic or natural textile fibers, woven or non-woven, or paper, previously impregnated with said formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use. In step D2) of the cleaning method that is the subject of the invention, the rinsing of the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes on which the formulation (F2) for topical use has been applied during step a Σ) is made by spraying with water ,.

Step D2) of the cleaning method that is the subject of the invention can be carried out at ambient temperature or at a temperature of between 20 ° C. and 40 ° C.

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it.

1) Preparation of foaming compositions

1.1) Preparation of a solution of disodium N-cocoylglutamate [Composition (Ci)].

315 kilograms of water, 177.2 kilograms of sodium monosodium glutamate monohydrate and then 152.5 kilograms of an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at 30% by weight are introduced into a reactor, with stirring and at a temperature of 20 ° C. in order to reach a pH of 12. 167 kilograms of cocoyl chloride, which is a mixture of acid chlorides comprising, for 100% by weight, 8% by weight of octanoyl chloride and 8% by mass of chloride, are then gradually added with stirring; of decanoyl, 50% by weight of lauroyl chloride, 17% by weight of myristoyl chloride, 8% by weight of palmitoyl chloride, 3% by weight of stearoyl chloride, 4% by weight of oleoyl chloride and 2% by weight of linoleoyl, then an additional 10 kilograms of the 30% sodium hydroxide solution to maintain the pH between 11 and 12. The temperature is maintained between 20 ° C and 50 ° C for two hours.

The mixture obtained is acidified by adding 65 kg of an aqueous solution of sulfuric acid at 70% by mass, then diluted with 75 kg of water to obtain an aqueous solution of disodium N-cocoylglutamate [composition (O)].

1.2) Analytical characteristics of the composition (Ci) previously prepared.

The analytical characteristics of the composition (Ci) are given in Table 1 below.

Appearance at 20 ° C (Visual method) Clear

Water mass content (a) (According to NFT 73-201) 56.1%

Residual Fatty Acids (b) (Gas Chromatography (GPC)) 8.2%

PH 6.3

Sodium chloride content (Potentiometry (c) 4.6%

Sodium sulphate content (d) (Calculation on load) 5.6%

Mass content of active ingredient (MAi) (cocoyl glutamate)

25.5%

(MAi) = 100% - (a) - (b) - (c) - (d)

Table 1

2) Preparation of surfactant compositions based on alkylpolyglucosides

2.1) Preparation of a composition (C3)

3.7 molar equivalents of a mixture of fatty alcohols (Ni) constituted by 100% of its mass of 68% by mass of dodecanol-1, of 25% by weight of a mixture, are poured into a reactor maintained at 80 ° C. tetradecanol-1 and 7% by weight of hexadecanol-1, then 1 molar equivalent of anhydrous glucose, followed by 0.15% by weight of sulfuric acid at 98% per 100% by weight of the mixture.

The reaction medium is placed under partial vacuum of approximately 0.18x10 ⁵ Pa (180mbar) and maintained at 100 ° C-105 ° C for four hours with distillation of the water formed.

After cooling to 85 ° C.-90 ° C. and neutralization by addition of 40% sodium hydroxide, the reaction mixture thus obtained is drained at 70 ° C. and filtered to remove unreacted glucose grains.

The filtrate is then poured into another reactor and the excess of the fatty alcohol mixture

(Ni) distilled off using a thin film evaporator, and then the residue diluted in water. After stirring for thirty minutes at 50 ° C., the composition (C3), which comprises 50% by weight of water and 50% by weight of a mixture of alkyl polyglucosides (MAAPGI), for which the proportions of alkyl polyglucosides and the average degree of polymerization of their polyglucoside residue is determined by gas chromatography (GC); it thus comprises, for 100% by weight, 69% by weight of n-dodecyl polyglucosides, 25% by weight of n-tetradecyl polyglucosides and 6% by weight of n-hexacyl polyglucosides with a degree of polymerization equal to 1.25.

2.2) Preparation of a Composition (C ₄ ) Comprising N-Heptyl Polyglucoside 2.7 g of 1-heptanol and then 1 molar equivalent of anhydrous glucose are added with stirring to a reactor maintained at 40 ° C., followed by 0.15% by weight of 98% sulfuric acid per 100% by mass. of the mixture.

The filtrate is then poured into another reactor and the excess of heptanol distilled under partial vacuum and the residue diluted in water.

After stirring for 30 minutes at 50 ° C., the composition (C4) comprising 26.4% by weight of water and 73.6% by weight of n-heptyl polyglucosides (MAAPG2) is obtained, with a degree of polymerization, determined by GPC. equal to 1, 25.

3) Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions

Four compositions (Fi) _inv ., (F ₂ ) inv., (F ₃ ) inv are prepared. and (F ₄ ) inv. according to the invention, and two compositions (F ₅ ) com _P. and (F ₆ ) com _P. comparative by pouring with stirring into a reactor maintained at 40 ° C, the composition (Ci) and at least one of the compositions (C3) or (C4). The mixture is stirred for thirty minutes to obtain one of the compositions (Fi) _inv . to (F ₄ ) inv. and (F ₅ ) com _P. and (F ₆ ) com _P .. The quantities used are listed in the following Table 2:

Table 2 The analytic characteristics of the compositions (Fi) _inv ., (F ₂ ) _in v., (F ₃ ) inv., (F ₄ ) M

(F ₅ ) com _P. (F ₆ ) com _P. comparatives are shown in Table 3 below.

Table 3

(1): Residual fatty acids (Percentage by mass)

(2): F = (MAi) / [(MAi) + (MAAPGI) + (MAAPG ₂ )]

(3): F '= [(MAAPGI) + (MA _A PG ₂ )] / [(MAi) + (MAAPGI) + (MA _APG2 )]

(4): Δ ι = (MAAPGI) / (MAAPG ₂ )

4) Evaluation of foaming properties

4.1) Principle of the evaluation method

The evaluation of the foaming properties of the compositions tested is carried out by forming a foam, starting from a hard water solution OMS comprising a predetermined mass content of the compositions tested, by mechanical stirring at a temperature of 20 ° C.

4.2) Experimental protocol

Aqueous solutions of 250 cm ^{3 are} prepared so as to obtain solutions at 0.5% by weight of surfactant active material in WHO hard water, from the compositions

(Fi) inv., (F ₂ ) inv., (F3) inv., (F5) comp., (Fe) comp., (Cl), (C3) and (C4).

Aqueous solutions of 250 cm ³ to 0.39% surfactant active material in "WHO" hard water are also prepared from the compositions (Ci), as well as an aqueous solution of 250 cm ³ to 0.1 1% surfactant active material in WHO hard water, from the composition (Ci).

The WHO hard water contains, for one liter of deionized water, 0.403 grams of anhydrous calcium chloride and 0.139 grams of magnesium chloride hexahydrate; which gives it a hardness of 34 ° Th.

These solutions are poured into a beaker of 500 cm ³ and then subjected to agitation using a Rayneri ™ laboratory motor (model 33/300) equipped with a butterfly blade. three hollow branches at a constant speed of 3,000 rpm for two minutes.

4.3- Expression of results

For each test, the following parameters are measured:

- The expansion time (Tf ₀ i _S ): it is the stirring time after which we observe the removal of the vortex in the beaker. Beyond this time, the foam completely surrounds the stem of the pale and its level is horizontal;

- The half-life time (T1 / 2): it is the time at the end of which the foam obtained from a certain volume of foaming solution, wrung out a quantity of solution corresponding to half of the initial volume. For this test, the half-life time is reached when the upper level of the dewatering water reaches the mark of 125 cm ³ on the beaker;

- The foam height generated by stirring (H _to ): this is the foam height generated at the end of the two minutes of stirring;

- The residual foam height after thirty minutes (htao): this is the height of foam observed after thirty minutes after the end of the agitation of two minutes.

- The difference Δ _Η = (H _to - Ftao), makes it possible to evaluate comparatively the quality of the foams generated by the various surfactants.

- The expansion rate (T _F ): it is the value of the ratio between the volume of foam (V _m ) produced by a foaming composition on the volume (V _s ) of the foaming solution used (water and emulsifier) .

4.4- Results obtained

The results obtained for the aqueous solutions of active ingredient in hard water WHO for the compositions (Fi) inv., (F2) inv., (F ₃ ) inv., (F ₄ ) inv., (F ₅ ) comp . (F ₆ ) comp., (Cl), (C3) and (C4), are shown in Table 4 below.

(Ttimes) (T1 / 2) (H, o) (Ht3o) (ΔΗ) (TF)

0.50%

(Fi) _inv . 12s 48mn 160mm 145mm 15mm 6.5

(F ₂ ) inv. 13s 40mn 170mm 145mm 25mm 6.6

(F ₃ ) inv. 24s 36mn 170mm 145mm 25mm 6.5

(F4) inv. 10s 46mn 170mm 145mm 25mm 6.7

(Fsjcomp 22s 12mn 175mm n.m.nm.n.m.

(Fe) comp. 44s 30mn 125mm 115mm 10mm 6.8

(Ci) 27s 37mn 145mm 120mm 25mm 6.4 (Cs)> 2mn nmnmnmndnm

(C ₄ )> 2 nm nmnmnmndnmnm: not measurable.

4.5 - Analysis of the results

These results show that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to prepare foams having all the qualities required to be used in cosmetics, unlike those which are comparative.

5) Examples of formulation

Constituent proportions are expressed as a percentage by mass.

5.1. Foaming face gel

Formula

Sodium lauryl sulfate: 6%

Composition (Fi) _inv . 1%

MONTALINE ™ C40 ⁽⁾ : 5%

SEPITONIC ™ M3 ⁽²⁾ : 1%

Perfume: 0.1%

Lactic acid: 0, 15%

Water: qs 100%

Perfume: 0.3%

KATHON ™ CG ⁽³⁾ : 0.08%

Sodium chloride: 0.8%

5.2. Bubble bath

Formula

Sodium lauryl sulfate: 10%

Composition (Fi) _inv . 2.6%

Perfume: 0.1%

SEPICIDE ™ HB ⁽⁴⁾ : 0.5%

CAPIGEL ™ 98 ⁽⁵⁾ : 4.5%

Water: qs 100%

SEPICIDE ™ Cl ⁽⁸⁾ : 0.3%

Coloring: qs

Soda: qs 5.3. Liquid hand soap

Formula

Sodium lauryl sulfate: 10%

Composition (Fi) _inv . 2.6%

AMONYL ™ 675 SB < ⁶ >: 10%

Perfume: 0.3%

SEPICIDE ™ HB ⁽⁴⁾ : 0.5%

SEPICIDE ™ CI ⁽⁸⁾ : 0.3%

Water: qs 100%

Sodium chloride: qs

5.4. Facial Cleansing Foam

Formula

Sodium lauryl sulfate 5% Composition (Fi) inv. 2.9% SEPICIDE ™ HB ⁽⁴⁾ : 0.5% Fragrance: 0.2% Water: qs 100% SEPICIDE ™ CI ⁽⁸⁾ : 0.3% SEPITONIC ™ M3 ⁽²⁾ : 1% Tromethamine: qs Colorant : 5.5. Anti-stress shampoo

Formula

Sodium lauryl sulfate: 20%

Composition (Fi) _inv . 1 1, 6%

SEPICIDE ™ HB ⁽⁴⁾ : 0.5% SEPICIDE ™ CI ⁽⁸⁾ : 0.3%

Perfume: 0.2%

Water: qs 100%

SEPICAP ™ MP < ⁷ >: 1%

Water: 10% CAPIGEL ™ 98 ⁽⁵⁾ : 3%

Soda: qs pH = 7.2

Stain: qs (1): MONTALINE ™ C40 is a monoethanolamine cocamidopropyl betainamide chloride salt.

(2): SEPITONIC ™ M3, a mixture of magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate and copper gluconate, is an energizing active ingredient marketed by the company SEPPIC.

(3): KATHON ™ CG, a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, is a preservative marketed by the company Rohm & Haas.

(4): SEPICIDE ™ HB, a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.

(5): CAPIGEL ™ 98 is a copolymer of acrylates marketed by the company SEPPIC. (6): AMONYL ™ 675SB is a cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine sold by the company SEPPIC.

(7): SEPICAP ™ MP, is a mixture of N-cocoyl amino acids and potassium salt dimethicone PEG-7 panthenyl phosphate, marketed by the company SEPPIC.

(8): SEPICIDE ™ Cl, imidazoline urea, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.

Claims

1. A process for improving the foaming properties of a topical cleaning formulation (Fi) comprising for 100% of its mass from 0.5% to 10% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition (Ci) comprising for 100 % of its mass:

(a) - from 65% to 90% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I):

(β) - From 10% to 35% by weight of at least one compound of formula (II):

RrC (= O) -OH (II)

in acid form, partially or totally salified, in which the group R 1 is as defined for the formula (I);

said method being characterized in that it comprises a step a1) of incorporating into said formulation (Fi) an effective amount of at least one composition (C2) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(γ) - From 14% to 80% by weight of a composition (C3) or a mixture of compositions (C3), said composition (C3) being represented by the formula (II I):

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) _P -H (III)

in which R3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, G3 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to to 5, said composition (C3) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulas (III1), (Mb), (M is), (II l4) and (ll l _5):

R ₃ -0- (G ₃ ) s- ^■ H (l Is)

in the respective molar proportions a ₁ , a ₂ , a 3, a ₄ and as, such that:

the sum: ai + a ₂ + a3 + a ₄ + as is equal to 1, and

the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a3 + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to p;

(δ) - From 0% to 3% by weight of at least one alcohol of formula (IV): Rs-OH (IV)

in which R3 is as defined for formula (III) above,

R ₄ -0- (G ₄ ) _q -H (V)

R ₄ -O- (G) ₂ -H (V ₂ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₃ -H (V ₃ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₄ -H (V ₄ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₅ -H (V ₅ ),

in the respective molar proportions a'1, a'2, a'3, a ' ₄ and a'5,

such that: the sum: a'i + a'2 + a'3 + a ' ₄ + a'5 equals 1, and the sum

a'1 + 2a'2 + 3a'3 + 4a ' ₄ + 5a's equals q; and

(η) - From 0% to 3% by weight of at least one alcohol of formula (VI):

R ₄ -OH (VI)

wherein R ₄ is as defined for the above formula (V).

2. Method as defined in claim 1, characterized in that in the formulas (I) and (II) the group RrC (= O) - represents an acyl radical chosen from octanoyl, decanoyl, dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl radicals. octadecanoyl, 9-octadecenoyl, 9,12-octadecadienoyl and 9,12,15-octadecatrienoyl.

3. Method as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises for 100% of its mass:

(δ) - a mass proportion of said alcohol of formula (IV) greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 3%, (ε) - a mass proportion in said composition (C ₄ ) greater than or equal to 30% and less than or equal to 80%, and

4. Process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that in formula (III), G3 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and lithium. arabinose.

5. A method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in formula (III), p represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

6. A method as defined in any or any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that in formulas (III) and (IV), R ₃ represents a linear alkyl radical selected from dodecyl _(n-2 Ci2H 5-), tetradecyl (n-Cl ₄ H ₂ 9) and hexadecyl _(n-3 Ci6H 3-).

7. Process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that in formula (V), G ₄ represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.

8. A method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that in the formula (V), q represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

9. A process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that in the formulas (V) and (VI), R ₄ represents a linear alkyl radical chosen from hexyl radicals (n-CeH- ), heptyl (n-C7Hi ₅ -).

10. A method as defined in any or any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said composition (C2) comprises a mixture of compositions (C3) and compositions (C _4), said mixture comprising per 100% of its mass:

(γι) - From 13.6% to 44.4% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) in which R3 represents the dodecyl radical (nC ^ Hbs-), (Y2) - from 5% to 16.25% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) wherein R3 represents the tetradecyl radical _(n-2 Ci4H 9), and

(Y3) - from 1, 4% to 4.55% by weight of a composition (C3) represented by the formula (III) wherein R3 represents the radical hexadecyl (n-Ci6H ₃ 3-),

(ει) - from 35% to 80% by weight of a composition (C4) represented by the formula (V) wherein R4 represents the radical heptyl (n-C7Hi ₅ -).

11 - Process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the mass ratio:

Δ = mass of compound (s) of formula (I) / [Mass of the composition (C3) + mass of the composition (C4)], is greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 65/35.

12 - Process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that the mass ratio:

Δ1 = mass of the composition (C3) / mass of the composition (C4) is greater than or equal to 20/80 and less than or equal to 70/30.

13 - Formulation (F ₂ ) for topical use comprising for 100% of its mass:

a) - from 0.5% to 10% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(a) - from 65% to 90% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I):

R 1 -C (= O) -NH-CH (COOH) - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -COOH (I)

in acid form, partially or totally salified in which the group RrC (= O) - represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical containing from eight to eighteen carbon atoms, and

(β) - From 10% to 35% by weight of at least one compound of formula (II):

b) from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one composition (C ₂ ) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12, and

c) - from 3.4% to 20% by weight of at least one foaming and / or detergent surfactant chosen from foaming surfactants and / or anionic or amphoteric detergents, and d) - from 60% to 96% by mass of water,

14. Use of a formulation (F2) as defined in claim 13 for cleaning the skin, the hair, the scalp, the mucous membranes of the human body.

15. A method of cleaning the skin, hair, scalp and / or mucous membranes, characterized in that it comprises:

At least one step 32) of applying the formulation (F ₂ ) as defined in claim 13 to the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes, followed by

- At least one step D2) of rinsing said skin, said hair, said scalp or said mucosa treated according to step 82).