EP3375307B1 - Knitted bra having variable elasticity - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a bra which is made of circular knitted fabric and which has a plurality of portions with variable elasticity.

It is known to make a knitted bra, in particular circular or tubular knit, such as the bra described and shown in the document. US-A-4,531,525 .

This type of bra, which is produced by means of a circular knitting machine provided for this purpose, has the advantage of being comfortable to wear and of offering a certain flexibility and elastic extensibility.

There is also known a circular knitted bra described and represented in the document. WO 2006/110387 A2 . The bra has a back panel, a front panel preferably having a pair of cups and preferably a pair of straps. The rear panel has at least one reinforced area. Preferably, the cups, suspenders and throat lug also have reinforced zones. Preferably, the reinforcement areas are formed during the knitting process, and also preferably using construction combinations of missing stitches with positive float and added in the threads. Preferably, the bra also has a real terry or imitation terry fabric construction on the fabric side of the reinforced areas, on the user side, to provide moisture wicking properties. The reinforced areas of the present invention can also be knitted in garments such as support garments, maternity garments and sports garments.

We also know a bra described and represented in the document US-A-7, 163.432 , which aims in particular to offer an adjustable bra to different sizes.

According to this document, the bra has a first knitted cap and a second knitted cap which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape.

Conventionally, the bra has a back strap and a pair of straps.

Each cap has a first lower peripheral portion which is made of knitted fabric, to support the chest.

In addition, each cap is supported by an attached lower tubular frame forming a stiffener, which is sewn or glued to the underside of each cap.

Although this type of bra offers a certain elasticity, making it possible to adapt to different sizes, the attached frame risks causing discomfort to the person wearing the bra.

In addition, the fixing of the frame on the bra requires an additional manufacturing operation.

To overcome these drawbacks in particular, the invention defines a bra made of a knitted fabric according to the features of claim 1.

Thus, the invention makes it possible to provide a bra allowing optimal support of the chest without the need for resorting to underwired frames or to thermoformed cups.

The dependent claims 2 to 12 define more precisely the brassiere of claim 1. These characteristics are described below.

According to another characteristic, the stiffener has little or no elastic extensibility in a vertical direction, perpendicular to a transverse direction, so as to support the chest.

In addition, the first peripheral support portion of each cup has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener, and in that said first portion is vertically nervous, so as to lift the chest without crushing it.

The second portion allows in particular to bring depth to the cups when the bra is worn.

According to another aspect, the stiffener and the first portion of each cup has a number of stitches per unit area which is less than the number of stitches per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the stiffener and said first portion less stretchable transversely than the second portion.

In addition, each cup has a third central portion which is adjacent to the second portion, which has a generally circular shape generally arranged in the center of the associated cup, and which has a lower vertical and transverse elastic extensibility than that of the second neighboring portion.

Likewise, the third portion has a number of stitches per unit area which is less than the number of stitches per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the third portion less transversely extensible than the second portion.

Also, each portion of each cap is knitted using a different type of mesh.

In addition, the stiffener forms a central strip which connects the first cap and the second cap to each other so as to limit their transverse spacing.

Finally, the different portions of each cap, the stiffener and the dorsal fastening strip are made in one piece by circular knitting.

This characteristic makes it possible to produce a large part of the bra according to the invention on a circular knitting machine in a single knitting step.

• la figure 1 est une vue en perspective, qui illustre un soutien-gorge réalisé en tricot comportant une pluralité de portions à élasticité variable, selon l'invention ;
• la figure 2 est une vue en plan, qui illustre le soutien-gorge de la figure 1 ;
• la figure 3 est une vue schématique de face, qui illustre un premier type de maille formant raidisseur ;
• la figure 4 est une vue schématique de face similaire à la figure 3, qui illustre un deuxième type de maille formant une première portion de chaque bonnet ;
• la figure 5 est une vue schématique de face similaire à la figure 3, qui illustre un troisième type de maille formant une deuxième portion de chaque bonnet ;
• la figure 6 est une vue schématique de face similaire à la figure 3, qui illustre un quatrième type de maille formant une troisième portion de chaque bonnet.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows for the understanding of which reference will be made to the appended drawings in which:

• the figure 1 is a perspective view, which illustrates a bra made of knitted fabric comprising a plurality of portions with variable elasticity, according to the invention;
• the figure 2 is a plan view, which illustrates the bra of the figure 1 ;
• the figure 3 is a schematic front view, which illustrates a first type of mesh forming a stiffener;
• the figure 4 is a schematic front view similar to the figure 3 , which illustrates a second type of mesh forming a first portion of each cap;
• the figure 5 is a schematic front view similar to the figure 3 , which illustrates a third type of mesh forming a second portion of each cap;
• the figure 6 is a schematic front view similar to the figure 3 , which illustrates a fourth type of mesh forming a third portion of each cap.

To clarify the description and the claims, the longitudinal, vertical and transverse terminology will be adopted without limitation, with reference to the trihedron L, V, T indicated in the figures.

We represented at the figure 1 a bra 10 made of knitted fabric, which is represented in a configuration worn by a standing person, so that the transverse direction T represented by the trihedron L, V, T at the figure 1 corresponds to a horizontal direction.

The brassiere 10 comprises a first knitted cap 12a and a second knitted cap 12b which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape, with convexity oriented towards the front in a longitudinal direction.

In addition, the bra 10 has a back fixing band 14 which is here composed of a first panel 16a and a second panel 16b which can be connected together behind the back of the user by means of attachment. 17 removable, shown in figure 2 .

The attachment means 17 is of the staple type and with complementary notches, for example.

However, without limitation, the bra 10 can also be designed to be attached from the front, between the two cups 12a, 12b, according to a design example not shown.

Similarly, the bra 10 can be made of a tube without attachment means, to be put on by the head.

The dorsal fastening strip 14 is made of stretch knit in a transverse direction corresponding to its great length.

In addition, the bra 10 is equipped with a pair of straps 18a, 18b which are designed to support the bra 10 on the shoulders of the user.

As can be seen in Figures 1 and 2 , the bra 10 comprises a knitting part 20 which is called “stiffener” 20 in the following description.

The stiffener 20 in particular forms a reinforcing strip 22 which extends below each cup 12a, 12b to promote the support and the holding of each cup 12a, 12b.

To this end, the reinforcing strip 22 of the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, generally the lower half of each cup 12a, 12b.

In addition, the stiffener 20 forms a central strip 24 which connects the first cup 12a and the second cup 12b to each other so as to limit their transverse spacing relative to one another.

Also, the stiffener 20 forms a first lateral band 26a which connects the first cap 12a to the first panel 16a, and a second lateral band 26b which connects the second cap 12b to the second panel 16b of the fixing band 14.

The stiffener 20 is produced by knitting according to a first type of mesh 28 illustrated in the figure 3 and described later, which is designed to replace an added frame, such as a metal frame for example.

For this purpose, the first type of mesh 28 of the stiffener 20 has a low elastic elasticity, even zero, in a vertical direction.

The term “low elastic extensibility” is understood here to mean an extensibility which is less than or equal to twenty percent, and preferably less than or equal to ten percent relative to a state of rest of the knitted fabric.

According to another aspect, each cup 12a, 12b comprises, from the periphery towards the center of the cup, a first portion 30a, 30b, a second portion 32a, 32b, and a third portion 34a, 34b respectively.

The first portion 30a, 30b forms the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, so as to support the chest.

As can be seen from the figure 1 , the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b substantially surrounds three quarters of each cup 12a, 12b, including a lower half and an upper lateral outer quarter, on the side of the arm of the user.

In addition, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is elastically extensible and it is made of knitted fabric according to a second type of mesh 36 which will be described later.

In addition, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener 20.

Likewise, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is sufficiently nervous vertically to lift the chest without crushing it.

The term “nervous” here translates an ability to exert a significant restoring force vertically when the knit is stretched.

In a complementary manner, the second portion 32a, 32b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a ring which is arranged inside the first portion 30a, 30b.

In addition, the second portion 32a, 32b is elastically extensible in a transverse direction and it has an elastic extensibility greater than that of the first portion 30a, 30b, so as to obtain a satisfactory cup depth 12a, 12b.

To this end, the second portion 32a, 32b is produced in knitting according to a third type of mesh 38 which is described below.

Finally, the third portion 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a circle which is arranged in the center of the associated cup and which is surrounded by the second adjacent portion 32a, 32b.

In addition, the third portion 34a, 34b is elastically extensible and it has an elastic extensibility less than that of the second portion 32a, 32b.

To this end, the third portion 34a, 34b is produced in knitting according to a fourth type of mesh 40 described below.

The different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b, the stiffener 20 and the dorsal fastening strip 14 are produced in one piece by circular knitting.

In addition, the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b are arranged in a generally concentric manner, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 2 .

We have represented schematically in figures 3 to 6 the visual rendering of a surface unit 42 of the first type of mesh 28, of the second type of mesh 36, of the third type of mesh 38 and of the fourth type of mesh 40 respectively, each surface unit 42 being constituted by eight transverse rows of threads forming eight vertical knitting columns.

The eight rows of yarns of each type of knitting mesh consist successively of a wrapped yarn F1, a first polypropylene yarn F2, a first textured yarn F3, a second polypropylene yarn F4, a flat yarn F5, a third yarn in polypropylene F6, a second textured thread F7 and a fourth thread in polypropylene F8.

The term “wrapped yarn” means a yarn consisting of a central part called the core, and a peripheral part called a cover.

The central part is a spandex or natural rubber thread, for example, which gives the wrapped thread elastic characteristics.

The peripheral part is made of natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, or synthetic fibers, such as polyamide or polyester, for example.

However, according to the example described here, the wrapped yarn F1 comprises a central part in elastane and a peripheral part in polyamide.

By “textured yarn” is meant a flexible and bulky yarn having elastic extensibility properties, unlike a flat yarn.

Textured yarn is for example obtained by twisting smooth fibers, generally synthetic, to increase its volume, making it soft to the touch and a little stretchy.

The term “flat wire” means a wire which does not lengthen, which is here made of polyester or polyamide.

The flat yarn is a monofilament yarn, as opposed to a textured yarn which is a multi-filament. The flat wire is obtained by spinning the material at a sufficient speed, generally between 1000 meters per minute and 5000 meters per minute, and if necessary by means of additional drawing to obtain a wire that is amorphous or has a low degree of crystallinity. , usually less than 5 percent.

The extensibility of each type of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40, in a transverse direction in the direction of the wire, and in a vertical direction in the direction of the mesh, is determined by the nature of the wire used and the type of knitting made.

Indeed, the technique of the jump of meshes, which consists in “keeping” a mesh on several rows, makes it possible to vary the vertical extensibility of the knitting.

The jump in mesh is illustrated in figures 3 to 6 , by the loops which extend vertically in several rows in succession. The more the mesh jump, the lower the intrinsic vertical elastic extensibility of the knitted fabric.

As can be seen in figures 3 and 4 , the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each comprise a “guarded” mesh in eight rows, alternating one column in two.

The thread of the guarded mesh of the first type of mesh 28 is the flat thread F5, which does not lengthen, so that the first type of mesh 28 has a low, even zero, vertical elastic extensibility.

According to figure 4 , the wire of the “guarded” mesh of the second type of mesh 36 is the gimped wire F1, which is relatively elastic, so that the second type of mesh 36 is very nervous vertically.

As an indication, according to an exemplary embodiment, the second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility of one hundred and forty percent relative to a state at rest.

As can be seen from the figure 5 , which illustrates the third type of mesh 38, the first covered yarn F1, the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7 are each "kept" in two rows, one column out of four, forming jumps of meshes arranged in staggered rows.

Similarly, according to the figure 6 which illustrates the fourth type of mesh 40, the first wrapped yarn F1, the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7 are each kept in two rows, one column in two, forming jumps of meshes arranged in staggered rows .

In a complementary way, the extensibility of each type of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40, in a transverse direction, in the direction of the wire, is determined by the number of meshes per unit of surface 42. The more the number of meshes is high and more the transverse elastic extensibility of the mesh tends to be great.

With reference to figure 3 to 6 , the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each have thirty six meshes per unit of area 42, the third type of mesh 38 has fifty six meshes per unit of area 42 and the fourth type of mesh 40 has forty eight meshes per unit area 42.

The high number of meshes of the fourth type of mesh 40 makes it possible to make the third portion 34a, 34b central of each cup 12a, 12b opaque, thus hiding the chest.

The relative elastic elasticity characteristics of the different types of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40 are described below.

The first type of mesh 28 has the lowest vertical extensibility, which is for example between zero and twenty percent, and which is preferably equal to ten percent, or even zero percent, relative to a state at rest .

The second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the first type of mesh 28, and which is for example equal to one hundred and forty percent of elongation compared to a state at rest.

The third type of mesh 38 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the second type of mesh 36, and which is for example equal to one hundred seventy five percent of elongation compared to a state at rest.

The fourth type of mesh 40 has a vertical extensibility which is less than that of the third type of mesh 38, and which is for example equal to one hundred and fifty percent of elongation relative to a state at rest.

Concerning the characteristics of relative transverse elastic extensibility of the different types of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40, the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 have a lower transverse extensibility than that of the third type of mesh 38 and of the fourth type of mesh 40, which is for example seventy-five percent elongation compared to a state at rest.

Finally, the transverse elastic extensibility of the third type of mesh 38 and of the fourth type of mesh 40 is for example one hundred seventy-five percent of elongation compared to a state at rest.

Thus, the bra 10 according to the invention makes it possible to dispense with an attached frame.

However, without implied limitation, the bra 10 according to the invention can be fitted with an added frame to improve the support of the chest.

In addition, the arrangement of the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b and of the stiffener 20, as well as the mechanical characteristics of each type of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40 make it possible to provide optimal breast support.

According to an alternative embodiment not shown, the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, as well as part of the upper periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, to enhance the volume of the cups 12a, 12b.

Claims (12)

1. Bra (10) made of a knit, the bra comprising:

   a first knitted cup (12a) and a second knitted cup (12b) which are transversely aligned and which each have a hemispherical overall shape, each cup (12a, 12b) comprising a peripheral first part (30a, 30b) which is elastically stretchable and made of a knit, serving to support the bust,

   a stiffener-forming part (20) which extends at least partially under each cup (12a, 12b), and

   a band (14) serving to fasten the back of the bra (10), the stiffener (20) forming a reinforcing band which at least partially surrounds the supporting peripheral first part (30a, 30b) of each cup (12a, 12b), the stiffener (20) being made of a knit using a first type of stitch (28) designed to replace an additional reinforcer and characterized in that of the first knitted cup and the second knitted cup each comprises an inner annular second part (32a, 32b) which is adjacent to the first part (30a, 30b), which is stretchable elastically transversely and vertically and which has vertical and transverse elastic stretch greater than or equal to that of the first part (30a, 30b).
2. Bra (10) according to Claim 1, characterized in that the stiffener (20) has low or zero elastic stretch in a vertical direction perpendicular to a transverse direction, so as to support the bust.
3. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the supporting peripheral first part (30a, 30b) of each cup (12a, 12b) has a vertical elastic stretch higher than that of the stiffener (20), and in that the said first part (30a, 30b) is reactive vertically so as to lift the bust without compressing it.
4. Bra (10) according to Claim 1, characterized in that the stiffener (20) and the first part (30a, 30b) of each cup (12a, 12b) comprise a number of stitches per unit area (42) which is not as high as the number of stitches per unit area (42) at the second part (32a, 32b) of each cup (12a, 12b) so as to render the stiffener (20) and the said first part (30a, 30b) less transversely stretchy than the second part (32a, 32b).
5. Bra (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that each cup (12a, 12b) comprises a central third part (34a, 34b) which is adjacent to the second part (32a, 32b), which has a circular overall shape arranged overall at the centre of the associated cup (12a, 12b) and which has vertical and transverse elastic stretch that is not as high as that of the second part (32a, 32b).
6. Bra (10) according to Claim 5, characterized in that the third part (34a, 34b) comprises a number of stitches per unit area (42) that is not as high as the number of stitches per unit area (42) of the second part (32a, 32b) of each cup (12a, 12b) so as to render the third part (34a, 34b) less transversely stretchy than the second part (32a, 32b).
7. Bra (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that each part (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) of each cup (12a, 12b) consists of a knit with a different type of stitch.
8. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stiffener (20) forms a central band (24) which connects the first cup (12a) and the second cup (12b) to one another in such a way as to limit their transverse spacing.
9. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the various parts (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) of each cup (12a, 12b), the stiffener (20) and the band (14) serving to fasten the back are made as a single piece using circular knitting.
10. Bra (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the second part of each cup forms an annulus arranged on the inside of the first part of each of the first knitted cup and the second knitted cup.
11. Bra (10) according to any one of Claims 5 to 10, characterized in that the third part of each cup forms a circle positioned at the centre of each cup and on the inside of the second part of each of the first knitted cup and the second knitted cup.
12. Bra (10) according to any one of Claims 5 to 11, characterized in that the first part, the second part and the third part are arranged concentrically on each of the first knitted cup and the second knitted cup.

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