WO2000026455A1

WO2000026455A1 - Functional double-layered knitted fabric, and retention garment made from same

Info

Publication number: WO2000026455A1
Application number: PCT/FR1999/002666
Authority: WO
Inventors: Françoise Arabeyre; René Arabeyre
Original assignee: Cognon-Morin Sa
Priority date: 1998-11-04
Filing date: 1999-11-02
Publication date: 2000-05-11
Also published as: FR2785299B1; FR2785299A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a double-layered functional fabric (10) comprising an outer layer (11) formed by a knitted stitch array produced with at least one elastic and/or extensible yarn (15), and an inner layer (12) linked to the outer layer (11) without passing through it, said inner layer (12) being formed with non-elastic technical yarn (16) which is weft-stitched forming apparent looped portions.

Description

FUNCTIONAL KNIT WITH DOUBLE LAYER, AND CONTAINER GARMENT MADE FROM SAID SUIT

The present invention relates to a functional fabric of the double layer type, in particular for producing compression garments.

Double layer fabrics are being developed more and more in the hosiery sector, for example for socks or T-shirts. The mode

10 of traditional knitting used for the functional fabrics composing these garments is however not suitable for compression garments, in particular tights or medical stockings. Indeed, in the field of hosiery, we do not seek to exercise any restraint,

15 and moreover, on the contrary, it is very much sought to avoid such restraint which could cause discomfort in the context of normal wearing having nothing to do with therapeutic wearing.

The state of the art is illustrated by the

20 documents EP-A-0 626 020, EP-A-0 105 773, EP-A-0 045 372, US-A-3 717 150, US-A-3 250 095, FR-A-2 435 546, FR-A-1 545 845, FR-A-1 290 328, DE-A-3 832 798, DE-U-92 01860, DE-U-89 03749 and DE-U-86 06402.

It is also interesting to consider the

25 document BE-A-690 156. This document describes a double-layered fabric designed to be stretchable lengthwise to improve comfort, and relatively locked in widthwise to prevent the formation of pockets (articles targeted are

30 sports pants or time zones). The fabric thus comprises an elastic thread forming stitches on two needle beds and a "non-especially elastic" thread, partially forming stitches on a single needle bed, in a sufficient number to obtain the desired blocking in the direction of the width. The function of the "not especially elastic" thread is limited to transverse blocking, in order to combat the "pocketing" effect.

For the medical field, the most interesting state of the art consists of the document EP-A-0 626 020. This document describes a knitted fabric of high elasticity with several layers for medical stockings or the like, in which the inner layer which is close to the skin has a lower capacity for absorbing moisture than the outer layer which is knitted from a multi-filament yarn. Knitting in elastic or elastomeric yarn is carried out on a circular loom, and the desired technical effect is obtained by an approach based on the choice of a particular number of individual filaments constituting the outer layer, which number is approximately equal or greater than the fineness of the yarn in dtex, the other inner layer, close to the skin, consisting of floating yarns which are always knitted.

The double layer fabric of this document has an inner layer which is knitted mesh, so that the floating parts of the yarn concerned, which are in direct contact with the skin of the user, are automatically stretched flat due to the anchor crossing of this wire in the outer layer. This effect is further enhanced when the thread of the inner layer is elastic, which is expressly provided for in the document. The tension exerted on this wire has the consequence that the visible floating parts can only have a limited length, which de facto reduces the desired technical effect. In addition, the knitting of this yarn is through, which has the consequence that the yarn of the inner layer is visible from the outside at each anchor, thereby adversely affecting the comfort and aesthetics of the compression garment produced. from this fabric. The object of the invention is to produce a fabric functional double layer more efficient than the aforementioned high elasticity knit, that is to say capable of providing a technical effect, in particular a therapeutic effect, which is significantly more marked for the same surface of fabric, with in addition a optimal comfort and a satisfactory aesthetic for the user.

This problem is solved in accordance with the invention, thanks to a functional double-layer fabric, in particular for producing compression garments, comprising:

- an outer layer constituted by a knitted mesh network produced with at least one elastic and / or extensible thread; an inner layer intended to be in direct contact with the skin of the user, said layer being linked, without passing through, to the outer layer and being made up of non-elastic technical thread which is woven in forming visible looped portions.

Thus, unlike the knitted yarn constituting the inner layer of the knitted fabric of the prior art, the non-elastic technical yarn used in the functional fabric of the invention is screened, and it defines the visible looped portions whose large length makes it possible to reinforce considerably. the technical effect sought, in particular the therapeutic effect. Of course, the fact that the non-elastic technical yarn does not pass through the outer layer makes this yarn invisible from the outside.

In a particular embodiment, provision will be made for the non-elastic technical yarn constituting the inner layer to be woven in such a way that the visible looped portions are floating on at least three meshes. In particular, the non-elastic technical yarn may be knitted on all the rows, or alternatively every other row, the other row then being constituted by a any screened yarn, for example an elastic and / or dyed yarn.

The non-elastic technical thread constituting the inner layer may be non-extensible or extensible as the case may be. With a non-stretchable thread, the looped visible portions will have a less marked arch shape, which slightly alters the aesthetic effect obtained, but on the other hand there will be a greater length for these looped visible portions, therefore a more marked technical effect. .

The non-elastic technical yarn constituting the inner layer may be made of natural fiber, for example cotton, or alternatively of synthetic fiber, for example of polyamide or monofilament or an acrylic fiber, or also of artificial fiber, for example of rayon.

The non-elastic technical thread constituting the inner layer may have various functions, cumulative or not, for example a therapeutic function, such as a bactericidal or algicidal function, a thermoregulatory function, or even an odorous function, the thread then being able to be previously impregnated of a specific fragrance.

The outer layer, for its part, has a more conventional design, and the thread or threads which constitute it may be both monofilament and multifilament.

The invention also aims to cover a compression garment, in particular a compression tights, remarkable in that it is at least partly made from a functional double-layer fabric having at least one of the characteristics mentioned above.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in the light of the description which follows, relating to an embodiment. particular reference, with reference to the figures of the appended drawing, where:

- Figure 1 illustrates in perspective a functional double-layer fabric according to one invention in the form of a piece here of substantially square shape, which distinguishes the inner layer formed with non-elastic technical thread which is woven in forming portions apparent curly;

- Figures 2a and 2b are schematic top views showing the shape of the looped visible portions when the functional fabric of Figure 1 is respectively in the rest state or subjected to a transverse traction exerted in the direction of the dithering of the technical thread inelastic; - Figure 3 is a section illustrating the functional double-layer fabric according to one invention in the case of a woven technical yarn which is both non-elastic and non-stretchable;

- Figure 4 is a section similar to the previous one illustrating the case of a wefted technical yarn which is both non-elastic and extensible, -

- Figure 5 illustrates four schematic representations of a double-layer functional fabric according to the invention, these fabrics having variable densities of technical thread obtained by particular choices of rows and number of needles, the four embodiments illustrated here are of course only examples.

FIG. 1 illustrates a piece of functional fabric 10 with a double layer according to the invention, which fabric, produced on a circular loom, is in particular intended for making compression garments, in particular compression tights, or parts such tights. The functional fabric 10 firstly has a outer layer 11 which is constituted by a knitted mesh network produced with at least one elastic and / or extensible thread. For this outer layer, any type of mesh network traditionally encountered in this application mode can be used, such as single jersey, with any choice of basic mesh (micro-mesh, etc.). The constituent wire of this outer layer 11 could for example be a thick elastic thread being of the mono-filament type, for example pure lycra, or else of the multi-filament type, with then at least one elastic filament ensuring the shortening function. , and an extensible filament ensuring the swelling function. The shortening function due to elasticity is inherent in the marked return force that the elastic thread then presents. It is also possible to use an extensible wire (not rigid), or even a wire having the double characteristic of elasticity and extensibility.

In FIG. 1, 11.1 is noted the outer face and 11.2 the inner face of the functional fabric 10, with reference to the fabric as it is intended to be worn, that is to say that the inner face 11.2 is turned on the side of the user's skin.

The functional fabric 10 with double layer further comprises an inner layer denoted 12, intended to be in direct contact with the skin of the user, said layer being bonded, without crossing it, to the outer layer 11 and being constituted with a thread. non-elastic technique 16 which is screened by forming visible looped portions.

The inverted corner of the piece of fabric 10 illustrated in FIG. 1 shows that the outer face 11.1 of the outer layer 11 is absolutely smooth, that is to say that the non-elastic technical thread 16 used to constitute the layer inner 12 is in no way apparent on the outer side. This provides a very satisfactory health aesthetic for the garment made with such a functional fabric. nel.

In the rest state (FIG. 2a) the visible looped portions denoted 16.1 of the technical thread 16 are in the form of widely rounded loops. These loops are juxtaposed row by row, as is the result of the screening used. When the functional fabric 10 is subjected to a tensile force in a direction which corresponds to that of the wefting of the non-elastic technical thread 16, the apparent looped portions become elongated, and have an elongated arch shape of considerable length (FIG. 2b ).

When the double layer fabric is used to make a compression garment, or a part of such a garment, the design of the garment is preferably provided so that the fabric of the garment worn is presented as illustrated in FIG. 2b, that is to say that there is then a very large number of visible looped portions. As this inelastic technical thread is the primary source, and in principle unique, of the technical function sought, the effect obtained is of course considerably enhanced. It may be a therapeutic function, for example bactericidal or algicidal. It may also be a thermoregulatory function, this function being able, depending on the case, to be combined with one of the abovementioned therapeutic functions. Apart from these purely therapeutic functions, it is also possible to provide, individually or in combination with the preceding functions, an odorous function, the non-elastic technical thread then being previously impregnated with a specific perfume.

The section in FIG. 3 provides a better understanding of how the non-elastic technical thread 16 is linked, without crossing it, to the outer layer 11, by forming, thanks to the dithering, visible looped portions of more or less length (depending on the screening method used se). Thus, each technical thread 16 used has visible looped portions denoted 16.1, which are separated by very short anchoring portions 16.2 taken in the thickness of the outer layer 11 (without coming out on the other side). The representation of Figure 3 corresponds to a non-elastic technical thread which is also non-stretchy. The curved shape of each visible loop 16.1 is then very well marked, and a completely remarkable appearance and comfort are obtained for the user. According to the variant of FIG. 4, the non-elastic technical thread used, denoted 16 ′, is as previously non-elastic, but it is extensible. In this case, the apparent looped portions of greater or lesser length, denoted 16 ′. 1 have a less marked looping effect than in the case of FIG. 3. The inner layer of the functional fabric is then more fluffy in appearance. As before, the visible looped portions 16 ′. 1 are anchored by their ends at the level of short portions denoted 16 ′. 2 in the thickness of the outer layer 11. The appearance is perhaps less satisfactory than in the case of the previous variant, but on the other hand, even longer lengths are obtained for a given surface of functional fabric, and consequently a more marked technical function. As an indication, for the non-elastic technical thread 16, 16 ′ constituting the inner layer 12 of the functional fabric 10, it is possible to use a natural fiber, for example cotton, or alternatively a synthetic fiber, for example mono or multi polyamide -filaments, or an acrylic fiber, or an artificial fiber, for example rayon.

Depending on the technical effect, in particular therapeutic effect, that one seeks to obtain, one can also play on the density of the technical thread per unit area of the functional fabric to obtain a more or less less of visible curly portions. We have already seen that we could play on the nature of the technical thread, but we can also play on the screening method, by a judicious choice of the rows used and the number of needles.

FIG. 5 illustrates four structures by way of example, each corresponding to specific choices of rows and number of needles. In this figure, the elastic and / or extensible yarn constituting the knitted network (here in single jersey) of the outer layer of the functional fabric is referenced 15, while the non-elastic technical yarn (here extensible) constituting the inner layer with the portions apparent looped is referenced 16. In a), we see that the non-elastic technical thread 16 is woven on all rows and that, for each row, there is one mesh taken for three floating meshes. Specialists name this screening method 1; 1/3 (dithering on each row, each time with one needle in three). We distinguish in the figure the portions 16.1 of great length which correspond to the floating stitches of the thread 16. It is important to remember that the thread 16, at each row, only crosses the network of knitted stitches produced with the thread 15, without cross the layer formed by this network.

In b), the dithering of the non-elastic technical thread 16 is still carried out on all the rows, but there are two meshes taken followed by three floating meshes. A more marked anchoring of the technical yarn 16 is then obtained in the thickness of the outer layer constituted by the knitted mesh network produced with the yarn 15. This thus corresponds to a screening 1; 2/3 (dithering on each row, with two out of three needles each time).

In c), the screening of technical thread 16 is still carried out on all the rows, and, for each row, we finds a mesh taken for four floating meshes. In this embodiment, we therefore favored the very long length of the floating parts forming the visible looped portions 16.1. The screening is then of type 1; 1/4 (dithering on each row, each time with one needle in four).

In d), a variant has been illustrated in which the technical thread 16 is screened every other row, the other row (16 "thread) then being constituted by any screened thread, here in l / l, for example a thread elastic and / or tinted. On each row screened with technical thread 16, there is one mesh taken for four floating meshes. This is a screening of 2; 1/4 (screening every other row, with one needle out of four each time. In general, it will be interesting to provide that the non-elastic technical thread 16, 16 ′ constituting the inner layer 12 is woven in such a way that the visible looped portions 16.1, 16 ′. are floating on at least three stitches on each row, which is the case for the four examples illustrated in FIG. 5. The non-elastic technical thread 16, 16 ′ constituting the inner layer 12 can be screened every row (like c ’ is the case for examples a), b), c) of figure 5), or enc or every other row (as is the case for example d) in Figure 5).

The four embodiments illustrated in FIG. 5 are naturally only examples, and other variants can be used with screening methods that are already known (for example l / l screening, 1 / 2 etc ...).

In all cases, the non-elastic technical thread 16, 16 ′ which is woven, forms visible looped portions 16.1, 16 ′. 1 of considerable length, while being similar to a fleece technique with invisible hooking point. The technical thread will be screened on the inner face of the inner layer in traction, so that the formation of the looped portions is optimal in all states of the functional tissue.

It is therefore the first time that a fleece effect has been used on an elastic and / or stretchy knit to increase the density of a technical yarn, which constitutes a quite remarkable progress in the production of functional fabrics. double layer, especially for making compression garments. The invention also covers the various types of compression garments (such as stockings, tights, gussets) which are at least partly made from a functional double-layer fabric having at least one of the characteristics which come from be described. In the case of compression tights, the use of this functional fabric may be reserved for parts such as the gusset, knees, heels, or feet, or any part desired as part of a specific application. The invention is not limited to the embodiments which have just been described, but on the contrary encompasses any variant incorporating, with equivalent means, the essential characteristics set out above.

Claims

1. Functional fabric (10) with a double layer, in particular for making compression garments, characterized in that it comprises: - an outer layer (11) constituted by a knitted mesh network produced with at least one thread (15) elastic and / or stretchy;

- an inner layer (12) intended to be in direct contact with the skin of the user, said layer being bonded, without crossing it, to the outer layer (11) and being formed with non-elastic technical thread

(16, 16 ') which is screened by forming visible curly portions (16.1, 16' .1).

2. Functional fabric (10) according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread

(16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is preferably screened so that the visible looped portions (16.1, 16'.1) are floating on at least three meshes.

3. Functional fabric (10) according to claim

1 or claim 2, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is woven on all rows.

4. Functional fabric (10) according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is woven every other row, the other row being constituted by any screened thread (16 "), for example an elastic and / or tinted thread.

5. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16) constituting the inner layer (12) is non-stretchable.

6. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the technical thread is not elastic (16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is extensible.

7. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is made of natural fiber, for example cotton.

8. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is made of synthetic fiber, for example polyamide mono or multi-filaments or an acrylic fiber.

9. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) is made of artificial fiber, for example rayon.

10. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) has a therapeutic function, for example by being bacteria- cide or algicide.

11. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) has a thermoregulating function.

12. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the non-elastic technical thread (16, 16 ') constituting the inner layer (12) has an odorous function, in particular being previously impregnated with '' a specific fragrance.

13. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the or each wire (15) constituting the outer layer (11) is a monofilament.

14. Functional fabric (10) according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the or each yarn (15) constituting the outer layer (11) is a multi-filament.

15. Compression garment, in particular compression tights, characterized in that it is at least partly made from a double-layer functional fabric having at least one of the characteristics of claims 1 to 14.