EP2919601A1 - Knitted bra having variable elasticity - Google Patents

Knitted bra having variable elasticity

Info

Publication number
EP2919601A1
EP2919601A1 EP13803135.6A EP13803135A EP2919601A1 EP 2919601 A1 EP2919601 A1 EP 2919601A1 EP 13803135 A EP13803135 A EP 13803135A EP 2919601 A1 EP2919601 A1 EP 2919601A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cup
bra
stiffener
mesh
type
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP13803135.6A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2919601B1 (en
Inventor
Manon Turlan
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DBI Operations Europe SAS
Original Assignee
Dbapparel Operations SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dbapparel Operations SAS filed Critical Dbapparel Operations SAS
Priority to EP18169311.0A priority Critical patent/EP3375307B1/en
Publication of EP2919601A1 publication Critical patent/EP2919601A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2919601B1 publication Critical patent/EP2919601B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0007—Brassieres with stay means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F15/00—Shoulder or like straps
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a bra which is made of circular knit fabric and which has a plurality of variable elasticity portions.
  • This type of bra which is achieved by means of a circular knitting machine provided for this purpose, has the advantage of being comfortable to wear and offer flexibility and stretch elasticity.
  • the bra comprises a first knitted cap and a second knitted net that are transversely alid and which each have a generally hemispherical shape.
  • the bra has a backing band and a pair of straps.
  • Each cup has a first lower peripheral portion which is made of knit, for the support of the chest.
  • each cup is supported by a lower reinforcing tubular reinforcement reinforcement, which is sewn or glued to the bottom of each cup.
  • the invention proposes a bra made of knit fabric, of the type comprising at least:
  • each cup having a first elastically extensible peripheral portion which is made of knit, for the support of the chest, a stiffening portion extending at least partly beneath each cup, and
  • stiffener forms a reinforcing strip which at least partially surrounds the first peripheral support portion of each cup, and in that the stiffener is made of a first type of mesh knit designed to substitute for a frame reported.
  • the invention provides a bra for optimal support of the chest without the need to use inserts or thermoformed cups.
  • the stiffener has a low or zero elastic extensibility in a vertical direction, perpendicular to a transverse direction, so as to support the chest.
  • first peripheral support portion of each cup has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener, and in that said first portion is vertically nerve, so as to lift the chest without crushing.
  • each cup has a second annular inner portion q u i is adjacent to the first portion, which is extensible elastically transversely and vertically, and has a vertical and transverse elastic extensibility greater than or equal to that of the first portion.
  • the second portion makes it possible to bring depth to the cups when the bra is worn.
  • the stiffener and the first portion of each cup has a number of meshes per unit area which is smaller than the number of meshes per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the stiffener and said first portion less transversely expandable than the second portion.
  • each cup has a third central portion which is adjacent to the second portion, which has a generally circular shape arranged generally at the center of the associated cup, and which has a vertical and transverse elastic extensibility lower than that of the second adjacent portion .
  • the third portion has a number of meshes per unit area which is smaller than the number of meshes per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the third portion less extensible transversely than the second portion.
  • each portion of each cup is made of knit according to a different type of mesh.
  • stiffener forms a central band which connects the first cap and the second cap between them so as to limit their transverse spacing.
  • each cup, the stiffener and the dorsal fastening strip are made in one piece by circular knitting.
  • This feature makes it possible to achieve a large part of the bra according to the invention on a circular knitting machine in a single knitting step.
  • FIG. 1 is a perspective view, which illustrates a bra made of knit fabric having a plurality of variable resilient portions, according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 is a plan view, which illustrates the bra of Figure 1;
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic front view, which illustrates a first type of mesh stiffener
  • Figure 4 is a schematic front view similar to Figure 3, which illustrates a second type of mesh forming a first portion of each cup;
  • Figure 5 is a schematic front view similar to Figure 3, which illustrates a third type of mesh forming a second portion of each cup;
  • FIG. 6 is a schematic front view similar to Figure 3, which illustrates a fourth type of mesh forming a third portion of each cup.
  • the longitudinal, vertical and transverse terminology will be adopted in a nonlimiting manner with reference to the trihedron L, V, T indicated in the figures.
  • FIG. 1 shows a bra 10 made of knitted fabric, which is shown in a configuration carried by a standing person, so that the transverse direction T represented by the unit L, V, T in FIG. to a horizontal direction.
  • the bra 10 comprises a first knitted cup 12a and a second knitted cup 12b which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape, convexity oriented forward in a longitudinal direction.
  • the bra 1 0 comprises a dorsal fastening strip 14 which is here composed of a first pan 16a and a second pan 16b which are connectable to each other in the back of the user by a means of removable clip 17, shown in FIG.
  • the attachment means 17 is of the staple type and complementary notches, for example.
  • the bra 10 may also be designed to be attached from the front, between the two cups 12a, 12b, according to an example of design not shown.
  • the bra 10 can be made of tube without attachment means, to be threaded by the head.
  • the dorsal fastening strip 14 is made of extensible knit in a transverse direction corresponding to its great length.
  • the bra 10 is equipped with a pair of suspenders
  • the bra 10 has a knit portion 20 which is referred to as "stiffener" 20 in the following description.
  • the stiffener 20 forms in particular a reinforcing strip 22 which extends below each cup 12a, 12b to promote the support and the holding of each cup 12a, 12b.
  • the reinforcing strip 22 of the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each net 1 2a, 1 2b, generally the lower half of each cup 12a, 12b.
  • the stiffener 20 forms a central band 24 which connects the first cap 12a and the second cap 12b between them so as to limit their transverse spacing relative to each other.
  • the stiffener 20 forms a first lateral strip 26a which connects the first cap 12a to the first panel 16a, and a second side band 26b which connects the second cap 1 2b to the second panel 16b of the fastening strip 14.
  • the stiffener 20 is made of knit according to a first type of mesh 28 illustrated in Figure 3 and described later, which is designed to replace a reported reinforcement, such as a metal frame for example.
  • the first type of mesh 28 of the stiffener 20 has a low elastic extensibility, or even zero, in a vertical direction.
  • weak elastic extensibility is meant herein stretching that is less than or equal to twenty percent, and preferably less than or equal to ten percent of a resting state of the knit.
  • each cup 12a, 12b comprises, from the periphery to the center of the cup, a first portion 30a, 30b, a second portion 32a, 32b, and a third portion 34a, 34b respectively.
  • the first portion 30a, 30b forms the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, so as to support the chest.
  • the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 1 2a, 1 2b substantially surrounds three-quarters of each cup 12a, 12b, of which a lower half and a lateral upper outer quarter, on the arm of the user.
  • first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is elastically extensible and is made of knit according to a second type of mesh 36 which will be described later.
  • first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener 20.
  • each cup 12a, 12b is sufficiently nerve vertically to lift the chest without crushing it.
  • the term "nervous” here reflects an ability to exert a significant restoring force vertically when the knit is taut.
  • the second portion 32a, 32b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a ring which is arranged inside the first portion 30a, 30b.
  • the second portion 32a, 32b is elastically extensible in a transverse direction and has an elastic extensibility greater than that of the first portion 30a, 30b, so as to obtain a satisfactory cup depth 12a, 12b.
  • the second portion 32a, 32b is made of knit according to a third type of mesh 38 which is described below.
  • each cup 12a, 12b forms a circle which is arranged in the center of the associated cup and which is surrounded by the second portion 32a, 32b adjacent.
  • the third portion 34a, 34b is elastically extensible and has a lower elastic extensibility than the second portion 32a, 32b.
  • the third portion 34a, 34b is made of knit according to a fourth type of mesh 40 described below.
  • the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b, the stiffener 20 and the dorsal fastening strip 14 are made in one piece by circular knitting.
  • each cup 12a, 12b is arranged in a generally concentric manner, as can be seen in FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • FIGS. 3 to 6 show schematically the visual rendering of a surface area 42 of the first type of mesh 28, the second type of mesh 36, the third type of mesh 38 and the fourth type of mesh 40 respectively, each unit of surface 42 being constituted by eight transverse rows of son forming eight vertical columns of knit.
  • the eight rows of yarns of each type of knit fabric are successively constituted by a yarn F1, a first polypropylene thread F2, a first textured yarn F3, a second polypropylene yarn F4, a flat yarn F5, a third yarn.
  • guiped wire means a wire consisting of a central portion called the core, and a peripheral portion called cover.
  • the central part is a natural spandex or gum thread, for example, which gives the wrapped thread elastic characteristics.
  • the peripheral portion is made of natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, or synthetic fibers, such as polyamide or polyester, for example.
  • the gimped yarn F1 comprises a central part of elastane and a peripheral portion of polyamide.
  • textured yarn is a flexible and bulky yarn having elastic extensibility properties, unlike a flat yarn.
  • the textured yarn is for example obtained by twisting smooth fibers, generally synthetic, to increase the volume, making it soft to the touch and a little expandable.
  • flat wire means a wire that does not stretch, which is here polyester or polyamide.
  • the flat wire is a monofilament wire, as opposed to a textured wire that is a multi-filament.
  • the flat wire is obtained by spinning the material at a sufficient speed, generally between 1000 meters per minute and 5000 meters per minute, and if necessary by means of a complementary drawing to obtain an amorphous wire or having a degree of low crystallinity, generally less than 5 percent.
  • each mesh type 28, 36, 38, 40 in a direction transverse in the yarn direction, and in a vertical direction in the mesh direction, is determined by the nature of the yarn used and the type of yarn used. knit made.
  • the jump of the mesh is illustrated in FIGS. 3 to 6 by the loops which extend vertically in several rows in succession.
  • the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each have a mesh "kept" in eight rows, alternately every other column.
  • the wire of the mesh kept of the first type of mesh 28 is the flat wire F5, which does not extend, so that the first type of mesh 28 has a weak or even zero vertical elastic extensibility.
  • the "guarded" mesh of the second type of mesh 36 is the guiped yarn F1, which is relatively elastic, so that the second type of mesh 36 is very vertically nervous.
  • the second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility of one hundred and forty percent compared to a state at rest.
  • the first wrapped thread F1, the third textured thread F3, the flat thread F5 and the textured thread F7 are each "kept" in two rows, one column on four, forming jumps staggered staggered.
  • the first wrapped yarn F1, the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7 are each kept in two rows, one column out of two forming stitch jumps arranged in staggered rows.
  • the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each comprise thirty six meshes per unit area 42
  • the third type of mesh 38 comprises fifty six meshes per unit area 42
  • the fourth type of mesh 40 has forty-eight meshes per unit area 42.
  • the high number of meshes of the fourth type of mesh 40 makes it possible to make the third portion 34a, 34b central of each cap 12a, 12b opaque, thus hiding the breast.
  • the first type of mesh 28 has the lowest vertical extensibility, which is for example between zero and twenty percent, and is preferably equal to ten percent or even zero percent, compared to a rest state. .
  • the second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the first type of mesh 28, and which is for example equal to one hundred and forty percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
  • the third type of mesh 38 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the second type of mesh 36, and which is for example equal to one hundred and seventy five percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
  • the fourth type of mesh 40 has a vertical extensibility which is lower than that of the third type of mesh 38, and which is for example equal to one hundred and fifty percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
  • the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 have a transverse extensibility which is more effective than the previous one.
  • the second type of mesh 38 and the fourth type of mesh 40 which is for example seventy five percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
  • transverse elastic extensibility of the third type of mesh 38 and the fourth type of mesh 40 is for example one hundred and seventy-five percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
  • the bra 10 according to the invention makes it possible to overcome a reported reinforcement.
  • the bra 10 according to the invention may be equipped with a reported frame to improve the maintenance of the chest.
  • the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, as well as a portion of the upper periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, to emphasize the volume of the cups 12a, 12b.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a knitted bra (10), comprising at least a first knitted cup (12a) and a second knitted cup (12b) which are transversely aligned and each have an overall hemispheric shape, each cup (12a, 12b) comprising a first elastically extensible knitted peripheral portion for supporting the chest, a stiffener (20) portion which extends at least partially under each cup (12a, 12b), and a strap (14) for attaching the back of the bra (10), characterised in that the stiffener (20) forms an underwiring strip which at least partially surrounds the first peripheral supporting portion (30a, 30b) of each cup (12a, 12b), and in that the stiffener (20) is knitted in a first type of stitch designed for replacing an added underwiring.

Description

Soutien-gorge réalisé en tricot à élasticité variable  Bra made of variable elastic knit
L'invention concerne un soutien-gorge qui est réal isé en tricot circulaire et qui comporte une pluralité de portions à élasticité variable. The invention relates to a bra which is made of circular knit fabric and which has a plurality of variable elasticity portions.
II est connu de réaliser un soutien-gorge en tricot, notamment en tricot circulaire, ou tubulaire, tel que le soutien-gorge décrit et représenté dans le document US-A-4,531 ,525.  It is known to make a knit bra, in particular circular knit, or tubular, such as bra described and shown in US-A-4,531, 525.
Ce type de soutien-gorge, qui est réalisé au moyen d'une machine à tricoter circulaire prévue à cet effet, présente l'avantage d'être confortable à porter et d'offrir une certaine souplesse et extensibilité élastique.  This type of bra, which is achieved by means of a circular knitting machine provided for this purpose, has the advantage of being comfortable to wear and offer flexibility and stretch elasticity.
On connaît aussi un soutien-gorge décrit et représenté dans le document US-A-7, 163,432, qui vise notamment à proposer un soutien-gorge ajustable à différentes tailles.  There is also known a bra described and shown in US-A-7, 163,432, which aims in particular to provide an adjustable bra to different sizes.
Selon ce document, le soutien-gorge comporte un premier bonnet et un second bon net tricotés q u i sont al ig nés transversalement et qui présentent chacun une forme globalement hémisphérique.  According to this document, the bra comprises a first knitted cap and a second knitted net that are transversely alid and which each have a generally hemispherical shape.
De façon conventionnelle, le soutien-gorge comporte une bande de fixation dorsale et une paire de bretelles.  Conventionally, the bra has a backing band and a pair of straps.
Chaque bonnet comporte une première portion périphérique inférieure qui est réalisée en tricot, pour le soutien de la poitrine.  Each cup has a first lower peripheral portion which is made of knit, for the support of the chest.
Complémentairement, chaque bonnet est soutenu par une armature tubulaire inférieure rapportée formant raidisseur, qui est cousue ou collée au dessous de chaque bonnet.  Complementarily, each cup is supported by a lower reinforcing tubular reinforcement reinforcement, which is sewn or glued to the bottom of each cup.
Bien que ce type de soutien-gorge offre une certaine élasticité, permettant de s'adapter à différentes tailles, l'armature rapportée risque de provoquer un inconfort à la personne qui porte le soutien-gorge.  Although this type of bra offers a certain elasticity, allowing to adapt to different sizes, the reported frame may cause discomfort to the person wearing the bra.
De plus, la fixation de l'armature sur le soutien-gorge demande une opération de fabrication supplémentaire.  In addition, the attachment of the frame on the bra requires an additional manufacturing operation.
Pour pallier notamment ces inconvénients, l'invention propose un soutien-gorge réalisé en tricot, du type comportant au moins :  To overcome these disadvantages, the invention proposes a bra made of knit fabric, of the type comprising at least:
- un premier bonnet et un second bonnet tricotés qui sont alignés transversalement et qui présentent chacun une forme globalement hémisphérique, chaque bonnet comportant une première portion périphérique extensible élastiquement qui est réalisée en tricot, pour le soutien de la poitrine, - une partie formant raidisseur qui s'étend au moins en partie au dessous de chaque bonnet, et - a first knitted hat and a second knitted hat which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape, each cup having a first elastically extensible peripheral portion which is made of knit, for the support of the chest, a stiffening portion extending at least partly beneath each cup, and
- une bande de fixation dorsale du soutien-gorge,  a dorsal fastening strip of the bra,
caractérisé en ce que le raidisseur forme une bande d'armature qui entoure au moins en partie la première portion périphérique de soutien de chaque bonnet, et en ce que le raidisseur est réalisé en tricot selon un premier type de maille conçu pour se substituer à une armature rapportée.  characterized in that the stiffener forms a reinforcing strip which at least partially surrounds the first peripheral support portion of each cup, and in that the stiffener is made of a first type of mesh knit designed to substitute for a frame reported.
Ainsi, l'invention permet de fournir un soutien-gorge permettant un maintien optimal de la poitrine sans qu'il soit nécessaire de recourir à des armatures rapportées ni à des bonnets thermoformés.  Thus, the invention provides a bra for optimal support of the chest without the need to use inserts or thermoformed cups.
Selon une autre caractéristique, le raidisseur présente une extensibil ité élastique faible ou nulle selon une direction verticale, perpendiculaire à une direction transversale, de façon à soutenir la poitrine.  According to another characteristic, the stiffener has a low or zero elastic extensibility in a vertical direction, perpendicular to a transverse direction, so as to support the chest.
De plus, la première portion périphérique de soutien de chaque bonnet présente une extensibilité élastique verticale supérieure à celle du raidisseur, et en ce que ladite première portion est nerveuse verticalement, de façon à lever la poitrine sans l'écraser.  In addition, the first peripheral support portion of each cup has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener, and in that said first portion is vertically nerve, so as to lift the chest without crushing.
Aussi, chaque bonnet comporte une deuxième portion intérieure annulaire q u i est adjacente à la prem ière portion , qui est extensible élastiquement transversalement et verticalement, et qui présente une extensibilité élastique verticale et transversale supérieure ou égale à celle de la première portion.  Also, each cup has a second annular inner portion q u i is adjacent to the first portion, which is extensible elastically transversely and vertically, and has a vertical and transverse elastic extensibility greater than or equal to that of the first portion.
La deuxième portion permet notamment d'apporter de la profondeur aux bonnets lorsque le soutien-gorge est porté.  The second portion makes it possible to bring depth to the cups when the bra is worn.
Selon un autre aspect, le raidisseur et la première portion de chaque bonnet comporte un nombre de mailles par unité de surface qui est inférieur au nombre de mailles par unité de surface de la deuxième portion de chaque bonnet, pour rendre le raidisseur et ladite première portion moins extensible transversalement que la deuxième portion.  In another aspect, the stiffener and the first portion of each cup has a number of meshes per unit area which is smaller than the number of meshes per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the stiffener and said first portion less transversely expandable than the second portion.
De plus, chaque bonnet comporte une troisième portion centrale qui est adjacente à la deuxième portion, qui présente une forme globalement circulaire agencée globalement au centre du bonnet associé, et qui présente une extensibilité élastique verticale et transversale inférieure à cel le de la deuxième portion voisine. De même, la troisième portion comporte un nombre de mailles par unité de surface qui est inférieur au nombre de mailles par unité de surface de la deuxième portion de chaque bonnet, pour rendre la troisième portion moins extensible transversalement que la deuxième portion. In addition, each cup has a third central portion which is adjacent to the second portion, which has a generally circular shape arranged generally at the center of the associated cup, and which has a vertical and transverse elastic extensibility lower than that of the second adjacent portion . Similarly, the third portion has a number of meshes per unit area which is smaller than the number of meshes per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the third portion less extensible transversely than the second portion.
Aussi, chaque portion de chaque bonnet est réalisée en tricot selon un type de maille différent.  Also, each portion of each cup is made of knit according to a different type of mesh.
De plus, le raidisseur forme une bande centrale qui relie le premier bonnet et le second bonnet entre eux de façon à limiter leur écartement transversal.  In addition, the stiffener forms a central band which connects the first cap and the second cap between them so as to limit their transverse spacing.
Enfin, les différentes portions de chaque bonnet, le raidisseur et la bande de fixation dorsale sont réalisés en une seule pièce par tricotage circulaire.  Finally, the different portions of each cup, the stiffener and the dorsal fastening strip are made in one piece by circular knitting.
Cette caractéristique permet de réaliser une grande partie du soutien-gorge selon l'invention sur une machine à tricoter circulaire en une seule étape de tricotage.  This feature makes it possible to achieve a large part of the bra according to the invention on a circular knitting machine in a single knitting step.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront à la lecture de la description détaillée qui suit pour la compréhension de laquelle on se reportera aux dessins annexés dans lesquels :  Other features and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows for the understanding of which reference will be made to the appended drawings in which:
- la figure 1 est une vue en perspective, qui illustre un soutien- gorge réalisé en tricot comportant une pluralité de portions à élasticité variable, selon l'invention ;  - Figure 1 is a perspective view, which illustrates a bra made of knit fabric having a plurality of variable resilient portions, according to the invention;
- la figure 2 est une vue en plan, qui illustre le soutien-gorge de la figure 1 ;  - Figure 2 is a plan view, which illustrates the bra of Figure 1;
- la figure 3 est une vue schématique de face, qui illustre un premier type de maille formant raidisseur ;  - Figure 3 is a schematic front view, which illustrates a first type of mesh stiffener;
- la figure 4 est une vue schématique de face similaire à la figure 3, qui illustre un deuxième type de maille formant une première portion de chaque bonnet ;  - Figure 4 is a schematic front view similar to Figure 3, which illustrates a second type of mesh forming a first portion of each cup;
- la figure 5 est une vue schématique de face similaire à la figure 3, qui illustre un troisième type de maille formant une deuxième portion de chaque bonnet ;  - Figure 5 is a schematic front view similar to Figure 3, which illustrates a third type of mesh forming a second portion of each cup;
- la figure 6 est une vue schématique de face similaire à la figure 3, qui illustre un quatrième type de maille formant une troisième portion de chaque bonnet. Pour clarifier la description et les revendications, on adoptera à titre non limitatif la terminologie longitudinal, vertical et transversal en référence au trièdre L, V, T indiqué aux figures. - Figure 6 is a schematic front view similar to Figure 3, which illustrates a fourth type of mesh forming a third portion of each cup. To clarify the description and the claims, the longitudinal, vertical and transverse terminology will be adopted in a nonlimiting manner with reference to the trihedron L, V, T indicated in the figures.
On a représenté à la figure 1 un soutien-gorge 10 réalisé en tricot, qui est représenté dans une configuration portée par une personne debout, de sorte que la direction transversale T représentée par le trièd re L,V,T à la figure 1 correspond à une direction horizontale.  FIG. 1 shows a bra 10 made of knitted fabric, which is shown in a configuration carried by a standing person, so that the transverse direction T represented by the unit L, V, T in FIG. to a horizontal direction.
Le soutien-gorge 10 comporte un premier bonnet 12a et un second bonnet 12b tricotés qui sont alignés transversalement et qui présentent chacun une forme globalement hémisphérique, de convexité orientée vers l'avant selon une direction longitudinale.  The bra 10 comprises a first knitted cup 12a and a second knitted cup 12b which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape, convexity oriented forward in a longitudinal direction.
De plus, le soutien-gorge 1 0 comporte une bande de fixation 14 dorsale qui est ici composée d'un premier pan 16a et d'un second pan 16b qui sont raccordables entre eux dans le dos de la personne utilisatrice par un moyen d'attache 17 amovible, représenté à la figure 2.  In addition, the bra 1 0 comprises a dorsal fastening strip 14 which is here composed of a first pan 16a and a second pan 16b which are connectable to each other in the back of the user by a means of removable clip 17, shown in FIG.
Le moyen d 'attache 17 est du type à agrafe et à crans complémentaires, par exemple.  The attachment means 17 is of the staple type and complementary notches, for example.
Toutefois, à titre non limitatif, le soutien-gorge 10 peut aussi être conçu pour être attaché par l'avant, entre les deux bonnets 12a, 12b, selon un exemple de conception non représenté.  However, without limitation, the bra 10 may also be designed to be attached from the front, between the two cups 12a, 12b, according to an example of design not shown.
De même, le soutien-gorge 10 peut être réalisé en tube sans moyen d'attache, pour être enfilé par la tête.  Similarly, the bra 10 can be made of tube without attachment means, to be threaded by the head.
La bande de fixation 14 dorsale est réalisée en tricot extensible selon une direction transversale correspondant à sa grande longueur.  The dorsal fastening strip 14 is made of extensible knit in a transverse direction corresponding to its great length.
En outre, le soutien-gorge 10 est équipé d'une paire de bretelles In addition, the bra 10 is equipped with a pair of suspenders
18a, 1 8b qui sont conçues pour supporter le soutien-gorge 10 sur les épaules de la personne utilisatrice. 18a, 18b which are designed to support the bra 10 on the shoulders of the user.
Comme on peut le voir aux figu res 1 et 2, le soutien-gorge 10 comporte une partie de tricot 20 qui est appelée « raidisseur » 20 dans la suite de la description.  As can be seen in Figs 1 and 2, the bra 10 has a knit portion 20 which is referred to as "stiffener" 20 in the following description.
Le raidisseur 20 forme notamment une bande d'armature 22 qui s'étend au dessous de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b pour favoriser le support et la tenue de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b.  The stiffener 20 forms in particular a reinforcing strip 22 which extends below each cup 12a, 12b to promote the support and the holding of each cup 12a, 12b.
A cet effet, la bande d'armature 22 du raidisseur 20 entoure la périphérie inférieu re de chaque bon net 1 2a , 1 2b, globalement la moitié inférieure de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b. De plus, le raidisseur 20 forme une bande centrale 24 qui relie le premier bonnet 12a et le second bonnet 12b entre eux de façon à limiter leur écartement transversal l'un par rapport à l'autre. For this purpose, the reinforcing strip 22 of the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each net 1 2a, 1 2b, generally the lower half of each cup 12a, 12b. In addition, the stiffener 20 forms a central band 24 which connects the first cap 12a and the second cap 12b between them so as to limit their transverse spacing relative to each other.
Aussi, le raidisseur 20 forme une première bande latérale 26a qui relie le premier bonnet 12a sur le premier pan 16a, et une seconde bande latérale 26b qui relie le second bonnet 1 2b sur le second pan 16b de la bande de fixation 14.  Also, the stiffener 20 forms a first lateral strip 26a which connects the first cap 12a to the first panel 16a, and a second side band 26b which connects the second cap 1 2b to the second panel 16b of the fastening strip 14.
Le raidisseur 20 est réalisé en tricot selon un premier type de maille 28 illustré à la figure 3 et décrit ultérieurement, qui est conçu pour se substituer à une armature rapportée, comme une armature métallique par exemple.  The stiffener 20 is made of knit according to a first type of mesh 28 illustrated in Figure 3 and described later, which is designed to replace a reported reinforcement, such as a metal frame for example.
Dans ce but, le premier type de maille 28 du raidisseur 20 présente une extensibilité élastique faible, voire nulle, selon une direction verticale.  For this purpose, the first type of mesh 28 of the stiffener 20 has a low elastic extensibility, or even zero, in a vertical direction.
On entend ici par « extensibilité élastique faible » une extensibilité qui est inférieure ou égale à vingt pour cent, et de préférence inférieure ou égale à dix pour cent par rapport à un état au repos du tricot.  By "weak elastic extensibility" is meant herein stretching that is less than or equal to twenty percent, and preferably less than or equal to ten percent of a resting state of the knit.
Selon un autre aspect, chaque bonnet 12a, 12b comporte, depuis la périphérie vers le centre du bonnet, une prem ière portion 30a, 30b, une deuxième portion 32a, 32b, et une troisième portion 34a, 34b respectivement.  In another aspect, each cup 12a, 12b comprises, from the periphery to the center of the cup, a first portion 30a, 30b, a second portion 32a, 32b, and a third portion 34a, 34b respectively.
La première portion 30a, 30b forme la périphérie inférieure de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b, de façon à soutenir la poitrine.  The first portion 30a, 30b forms the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, so as to support the chest.
Comme on peut le voir à la figure 1 , la première portion 30a, 30b de chaque bonnet 1 2a, 1 2b entoure sensiblement les trois quarts de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b, dont une moitié inférieure et un quart supérieur extérieur latéral, du côté du bras de la personne utilisatrice.  As can be seen in FIG. 1, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 1 2a, 1 2b substantially surrounds three-quarters of each cup 12a, 12b, of which a lower half and a lateral upper outer quarter, on the arm of the user.
De plus, la première portion 30a, 30b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b est extensible élastiquement et elle est réalisée en tricot selon un deuxième type de maille 36 qui sera décrit par la suite.  In addition, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is elastically extensible and is made of knit according to a second type of mesh 36 which will be described later.
En outre, la première portion 30a, 30b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b présente une extensibilité élastique verticale supérieure à celle du raidisseur 20.  In addition, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener 20.
De même, la première portion 30a, 30b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b est suffisamment nerveuse verticalement pour lever la poitrine sans l'écraser.  Similarly, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is sufficiently nerve vertically to lift the chest without crushing it.
Le terme « nerveuse » traduit ici une capacité à exercer une force de rappel importante verticalement lorsque le tricot est tendu. De façon complémentaire, la deuxième portion 32a, 32b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b forme un anneau qui est agencé à l'intérieur de la première portion 30a, 30b. The term "nervous" here reflects an ability to exert a significant restoring force vertically when the knit is taut. In a complementary manner, the second portion 32a, 32b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a ring which is arranged inside the first portion 30a, 30b.
De plus, la deuxième portion 32a, 32b est extensible élastiquement selon une direction transversale et elle présente une extensibilité élastique supérieure à celle de la première portion 30a, 30b, de façon à obtenir une profondeur de bonnet 12a, 12b satisfaisante.  In addition, the second portion 32a, 32b is elastically extensible in a transverse direction and has an elastic extensibility greater than that of the first portion 30a, 30b, so as to obtain a satisfactory cup depth 12a, 12b.
A cet effet la deuxième portion 32a, 32b est réalisée en tricot selon un troisième type de maille 38 qui est décrit par la suite.  For this purpose the second portion 32a, 32b is made of knit according to a third type of mesh 38 which is described below.
Enfin, la troisième portion 34a, 34b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b forme un cercle qui est agencé au centre du bonnet associé et qui est entouré par la deuxième portion 32a, 32b adjacente.  Finally, the third portion 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a circle which is arranged in the center of the associated cup and which is surrounded by the second portion 32a, 32b adjacent.
De plus, la troisième portion 34a, 34b est extensible élastiquement et elle présente une extensibilité élastique inférieure à celle de la deuxième portion 32a, 32b.  In addition, the third portion 34a, 34b is elastically extensible and has a lower elastic extensibility than the second portion 32a, 32b.
A cet effet, la troisième portion 34a, 34b est réalisée en tricot selon un quatrième type de maille 40 décrit par la suite.  For this purpose, the third portion 34a, 34b is made of knit according to a fourth type of mesh 40 described below.
Les différentes portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b, le raidisseur 20 et la bande de fixation 14 dorsale sont réalisés en une seule pièce par tricotage circulaire.  The different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b, the stiffener 20 and the dorsal fastening strip 14 are made in one piece by circular knitting.
De plus, les différentes portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b sont agencées de façon globalement concentrique, comme on peut le voir au figures 1 et 2.  In addition, the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b are arranged in a generally concentric manner, as can be seen in FIGS. 1 and 2.
On a représenté schématiquement aux figures 3 à 6 le rendu visuel d'une un ité de surface 42 du premier type de maille 28, du second type de maille 36, du troisième type de maille 38 et du quatrième type de maille 40 respectivement, chaque unité de surface 42 étant constituée par huit rangées transversales de fils formant huit colonnes verticales de tricot.  FIGS. 3 to 6 show schematically the visual rendering of a surface area 42 of the first type of mesh 28, the second type of mesh 36, the third type of mesh 38 and the fourth type of mesh 40 respectively, each unit of surface 42 being constituted by eight transverse rows of son forming eight vertical columns of knit.
Les huit rangées de fils de chaque type de maille de tricot sont constituées successivement par un fil guipé F1 , un premier fil en polypropylène F2, un premier fil texturé F3, un second fil en polypropylène F4, un fil plat F5, un troisième fil en polypropylène F6, un second fil texturé F7 et un quatrième fil en polypropylène F8.  The eight rows of yarns of each type of knit fabric are successively constituted by a yarn F1, a first polypropylene thread F2, a first textured yarn F3, a second polypropylene yarn F4, a flat yarn F5, a third yarn. polypropylene F6, a second textured yarn F7 and a fourth yarn of polypropylene F8.
On entend par « fil guipé » un fil constitué d'une partie centrale appelée âme, et d'une partie périphérique appelée couverture. La partie centrale est un fil d'élasthanne ou de gomme naturelle, par exemple, qui donne au fil guipé des caractéristiques élastiques. The term "guiped wire" means a wire consisting of a central portion called the core, and a peripheral portion called cover. The central part is a natural spandex or gum thread, for example, which gives the wrapped thread elastic characteristics.
La partie périphérique est en fibres naturelles, comme du coton ou de la laine, ou en fibres synthétiques, comme du polyamide ou du polyester, par exemple.  The peripheral portion is made of natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, or synthetic fibers, such as polyamide or polyester, for example.
Toutefois, selon l'exemple décrit ici, le fil guipé F1 comporte une partie centrale en élasthanne et une partie périphérique en polyamide.  However, according to the example described here, the gimped yarn F1 comprises a central part of elastane and a peripheral portion of polyamide.
On entend par « fil texturé » est un fil souple et volumineux ayant des propriétés d'extensibilité élastique, contrairement à un fil plat.  The term "textured yarn" is a flexible and bulky yarn having elastic extensibility properties, unlike a flat yarn.
Le fil texturé est par exemple obtenu par torsion de fibres lisses, généralement synthétiques, pour en en accroître le volume, le rendant doux au toucher et un peu extensible.  The textured yarn is for example obtained by twisting smooth fibers, generally synthetic, to increase the volume, making it soft to the touch and a little expandable.
On entend par « fil plat » un fil qui ne s'allonge pas, qui est ici en polyester ou en polyamide.  The term "flat wire" means a wire that does not stretch, which is here polyester or polyamide.
Le fil plat est un fil mono-filament, par opposition à un fil texturé qui est un multi-filaments. Le fil plat est obtenu par filage de la matière à une vitesse suffisante, généralement comprise entre 1000 mètres par minute et 5000 mètres par m in ute, et si nécessaire au moyen d'un étirage complémentaire pour obtenir un fil amorphe ou ayant un degré de cristallinité faible, généralement inférieur à 5 pour cent.  The flat wire is a monofilament wire, as opposed to a textured wire that is a multi-filament. The flat wire is obtained by spinning the material at a sufficient speed, generally between 1000 meters per minute and 5000 meters per minute, and if necessary by means of a complementary drawing to obtain an amorphous wire or having a degree of low crystallinity, generally less than 5 percent.
L'extensibilité de chaque type de maille 28, 36, 38, 40, dans une direction transversale dans le sens du fil, et dans une direction verticale dans le sens de la maille, est déterminée par la nature du fil utilisé et le type de tricot réalisé.  The extensibility of each mesh type 28, 36, 38, 40, in a direction transverse in the yarn direction, and in a vertical direction in the mesh direction, is determined by the nature of the yarn used and the type of yarn used. knit made.
En effet, la technique du saut de mailles, qui consiste à « garder » une maille sur plusieurs rangées, permet de faire varier l'extensibilité verticale du tricot.  Indeed, the technique of the mesh jump, which consists in "keeping" a mesh on several rows, makes it possible to vary the vertical extensibility of the knit.
Le saut de maille est illustré aux figures 3 à 6, par les boucles qui s'étendent verticalement sur plusieurs rangées à la suite. Plus le saut de maille est étendu, plus l'extensibilité élastique verticale intrinsèque du tricot est faible.  The jump of the mesh is illustrated in FIGS. 3 to 6 by the loops which extend vertically in several rows in succession. The larger the mesh break, the lower the intrinsic vertical elastic extensibility of the knit.
Comme on peut le voir aux figures 3 et 4, le premier type de maille 28 et le second type de maille 36 comportent chacun une maille « gardée » sur huit rangées, en alternance une colonne sur deux.  As can be seen in Figures 3 and 4, the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each have a mesh "kept" in eight rows, alternately every other column.
Le fil de la maille gardée du premier type de maille 28 est le fil plat F5, qui ne s'allonge pas, de sorte que le premier type de maille 28 présente une extensibilité élastique verticale faible, voire nulle. Selon la figure 4, le fil de la maille « gardée » du second type de maille 36 est le fil guipé F1 , qui est relativement élastique, de sorte que le second type de maille 36 est très nerveux verticalement. The wire of the mesh kept of the first type of mesh 28 is the flat wire F5, which does not extend, so that the first type of mesh 28 has a weak or even zero vertical elastic extensibility. According to FIG. 4, the "guarded" mesh of the second type of mesh 36 is the guiped yarn F1, which is relatively elastic, so that the second type of mesh 36 is very vertically nervous.
A titre indicatif, selon un exemple de réalisation, le second type de maille 36 présente une extensibilité verticale de cent quarante pour cent par rapport à un état au repos.  As an indication, according to an exemplary embodiment, the second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility of one hundred and forty percent compared to a state at rest.
Comme on peut le voir à la figure 5, qui illustre le troisième type de maille 38, le premier fil guipé F1 , le troisième fil texturé F3, le fil plat F5 et le fil texturé F7 sont chacun « gardés » sur deux rangées, une colonne sur quatre, formant des sauts de mailles agencés en quinconce.  As can be seen in FIG. 5, which illustrates the third type of mesh 38, the first wrapped thread F1, the third textured thread F3, the flat thread F5 and the textured thread F7 are each "kept" in two rows, one column on four, forming jumps staggered staggered.
De même, selon la figure 6 qui illustre le quatrième type de maille 40, le premier fil guipé F1 , le troisième fil texturé F3, le fil plat F5 et le fil texturé F7 sont chacun gardés sur deux rangées, une colonne sur deux, formant des sauts de mailles agencés en quinconce.  Similarly, according to FIG. 6 which illustrates the fourth type of mesh 40, the first wrapped yarn F1, the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7 are each kept in two rows, one column out of two forming stitch jumps arranged in staggered rows.
De façon complémentaire, l'extensibilité de chaque type de maille In a complementary way, the extensibility of each type of mesh
28, 36, 38, 40, dans une d irection transversale, dans le sens du fil , est déterminée par le nombre de mailles par unité de surface 42. Plus le nombre de mailles est élevé et plus l'extensibilité élastique transversale de la maille tend à être grande. 28, 36, 38, 40, in a transverse direction, in the direction of the yarn, is determined by the number of stitches per unit area 42. The higher the number of stitches, the greater the transverse elastic extensibility of the stitch. tends to be big.
En référence aux figure 3 à 6, le premier type de maille 28 et le second type de maille 36 comportent chacun trente six mailles par unité de surface 42, le troisième type de maille 38 comporte cinquante six mailles par unité de surface 42 et le quatrième type de maille 40 comporte quarante huit mailles par unité de surface 42.  With reference to FIGS. 3 to 6, the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each comprise thirty six meshes per unit area 42, the third type of mesh 38 comprises fifty six meshes per unit area 42 and the fourth type of mesh 40 has forty-eight meshes per unit area 42.
Le nombre de mailles élevé du quatrième type de maille 40, permet de rendre la troisième portion 34a, 34b centrale de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b opaque, cachant ainsi la poitrine.  The high number of meshes of the fourth type of mesh 40 makes it possible to make the third portion 34a, 34b central of each cap 12a, 12b opaque, thus hiding the breast.
Les caractéristiques d'extensibilité élastique verticale relatives des différents types de mailles 28, 36, 38, 40 sont décrites par la suite.  The characteristics of relative vertical elastic extensibility of the various types of meshes 28, 36, 38, 40 are described below.
Le premier type de maille 28 présente l'extensibilité verticale la plus faible, qui est par exemple comprise entre zéro et vingt pour cent, et qui est égale de préférence à dix pour cent, voire zéro pour cent, par rapport à un état au repos.  The first type of mesh 28 has the lowest vertical extensibility, which is for example between zero and twenty percent, and is preferably equal to ten percent or even zero percent, compared to a rest state. .
Le second type de maille 36 présente une extensibilité verticale qui est supérieure à celle du premier type de maille 28, et qui est par exemple égale à cent quarante pour cent d'allongement par rapport à un état au repos. Le troisième type de maille 38 présente une extensibilité verticale qui est supérieure à celle du second type de maille 36, et qui est par exemple égale à cent soixante quinze pour cent d'allongement par rapport à un état au repos. The second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the first type of mesh 28, and which is for example equal to one hundred and forty percent elongation with respect to a state at rest. The third type of mesh 38 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the second type of mesh 36, and which is for example equal to one hundred and seventy five percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
Le quatrième type de maille 40 présente une extensibilité verticale qui est inférieure à celle du troisième type de maille 38, et qui est par exemple égale à cent cinquante pour cent d'allongement par rapport à un état au repos.  The fourth type of mesh 40 has a vertical extensibility which is lower than that of the third type of mesh 38, and which is for example equal to one hundred and fifty percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
Concernant les caractéristiques d'extensibilité élastique transversales relatives des différents types de mailles 28, 36, 38, 40, le premier type de maille 28 et le second type de maille 36 présentent une extensibilité transversale pl us fa i bl e q ue cel l e d u tro is ièm e type de ma i l l e 38 et d u quatrième type de maille 40, qui est par exemple de soixante quinze pour cent d'allongement par rapport à un état au repos.  With regard to the relative transverse elastic extensibility characteristics of the various types of meshes 28, 36, 38, 40, the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 have a transverse extensibility which is more effective than the previous one. the second type of mesh 38 and the fourth type of mesh 40, which is for example seventy five percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
Enfin, l'extensibilité élastique transversale du troisième type de maille 38 et du quatrième type de maille 40 est par exemple de cent soixante quinze pour cent d'allongement par rapport à un état au repos.  Finally, the transverse elastic extensibility of the third type of mesh 38 and the fourth type of mesh 40 is for example one hundred and seventy-five percent elongation with respect to a state at rest.
Ainsi, le soutien-gorge 10 selon l'invention permet de s'affranchir d'une armature rapportée.  Thus, the bra 10 according to the invention makes it possible to overcome a reported reinforcement.
Toutefois, à titre non limitatif, le soutien-gorge 10 selon l'invention peut être équipé d'une armature rapportée pour améliorer le maintien de la poitrine.  However, without limitation, the bra 10 according to the invention may be equipped with a reported frame to improve the maintenance of the chest.
De plus, la disposition des différentes portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b de chaq ue bon net 1 2a , 1 2b et du raid isseu r 20, ainsi que les caractéristiques mécaniques de chaque type de maille 28, 36, 38, 40 permettent d'offrir un maintien optimal de la poitrine.  In addition, the arrangement of the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each good net 1 2a, 1 2b and raid isseu r 20, and the mechanical characteristics of each type of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40 provide optimal breast support.
Selon une variante de réalisation non représentée, le raidisseur 20 entoure la périphérie inférieure de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b, ainsi qu'une partie de la périphérie supérieure de chaque bonnet 12a, 12b, pour mettre en valeur le volume des bonnets 12a, 12b.  According to an alternative embodiment not shown, the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, as well as a portion of the upper periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, to emphasize the volume of the cups 12a, 12b.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . Soutien-gorge (10) réal isé en tricot, du type comportant au moins : 1. Bra (10) made of knit fabric, of the type comprising at least:
- un premier bonnet (12a) et un second bonnet (12b) tricotés qui sont alignés transversalement et qui présentent chacun une forme globalement hémisphérique, chaque bonnet (12a, 12b) comportant une première portion (30a, 30b) périphérique extensible élastiquement qui est réalisée en tricot, pour le soutien de la poitrine,  a first knitted cap (12a) and a second knitted cap (12b) which are transversely aligned and which each have a generally hemispherical shape, each cup (12a, 12b) comprising a first elastically extensible peripheral portion (30a, 30b) which is produced knit, for the support of the chest,
- une partie formant raidisseur (20) qui s'étend au moins en partie au dessous de chaque bonnet (12a, 12b), et  - a stiffening portion (20) which extends at least partially below each cup (12a, 12b), and
- une bande de fixation (14) dorsale du soutien-gorge (10), caractérisé en ce que le raidisseur (20) forme une bande d'armature qui entoure au moins en partie la première portion (30a, 30b) périphérique de soutien de chaque bonnet (12a, 12b), et en ce q u e l e raidisseur (20) est réalisé en tricot selon un premier type de maille (28) conçu pour se substituer à une armature rapportée.  a dorsal fastening strip (14) for the brassiere (10), characterized in that the stiffener (20) forms a reinforcing strip which at least partially surrounds the first peripheral support portion (30a, 30b) of each cup (12a, 12b), and in thatthe stiffener (20) is made of knit according to a first type of mesh (28) designed to substitute for a reported reinforcement.
2. Soutien-gorge (10) selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le raidisseur (20) présente une extensibilité élastique faible ou nulle selon une direction verticale, perpendiculaire à une direction transversale, de façon à soutenir la poitrine.  2. Bra (10) according to claim 1, characterized in that the stiffener (20) has a low or zero elastic extensibility in a vertical direction, perpendicular to a transverse direction, so as to support the chest.
3. Soutien-gorge (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la première portion (30a, 30b) périphérique de soutien de chaque bonnet (12a, 12b) présente une extensibilité élastique verticale supérieure à celle du raidisseur (20), et en ce que ladite première portion (30a, 30b) est nerveuse verticalement, de façon à lever la poitrine sans l'écraser.  3. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first portion (30a, 30b) support device of each cup (12a, 12b) has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener (20), and in that said first portion (30a, 30b) is vertically nerve, so as to lift the breast without crushing it.
4. Soutien-gorge (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que chaque bonnet (12a, 12b) comporte une deuxième portion (32a, 32b) intérieure annulaire q u i est adjacente à la première portion (30a, 30b), qui est extensible élastiquement transversalement et verticalement, et qui présente une extensibilité élastique verticale et transversale supérieure ou égale à celle de la première portion (30a, 30b).  4. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each cup (12a, 12b) has a second portion (32a, 32b) inner annular which is adjacent to the first portion (30a, 30b ), which is elastically extensible transversely and vertically, and which has a vertical and transverse elastic extensibility greater than or equal to that of the first portion (30a, 30b).
5. Soutien-gorge (10) selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que le raidisseur (20) et la première portion (30a, 30b) de chaque bonnet (12a, 12b) comporte un nombre de mailles par unité de surface (42) qui est inférieur au nombre de mailles par unité de surface (42) de la deuxième portion (32a, 32b) de chaque bonnet (1 2a, 1 2b), pour rendre le raidisseur (20) et ladite prem ière portion (30a, 30b) moins extensible transversalement que la deuxième portion (32a, 32b). 5. Bra (10) according to claim 4, characterized in that the stiffener (20) and the first portion (30a, 30b) of each cup (12a, 12b) has a number of meshes per unit area (42) which is smaller than the number of meshes per unit area (42) of the second portion (32a, 32b) of each cup (1 2a, 1 2b), to render the stiffener (20) and said first portion (30a, 30b) being less transversely extensible than the second portion (32a, 32b).
6. Soutien-gorge (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 ou 5, caractérisé en ce que chaque bonnet (12a, 12b) comporte une troisième portion (34a, 34b) centrale qui est adjacente à la deuxième portion (32a, 32b), qui présente une forme globalement circulaire agencée globalement au centre du bonnet (1 2a, 1 2b) associé, et q u i présente u ne extensibilité élastique verticale et transversale inférieure à celle de la deuxième portion (32a, 32b) voisine.  6. Bra (10) according to any one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that each cup (12a, 12b) has a third portion (34a, 34b) central which is adjacent to the second portion (32a, 32b), which has a generally circular shape arranged globally in the center of the cup (1 2a, 1 2b) associated, and which has u less vertical and transverse elastic extensibility than the second portion (32a, 32b) neighbor.
7. Soutien-gorge (10) selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que la troisième portion (34a, 34b) comporte un nombre de mailles par unité de surface (42) qui est inférieur au nombre de mailles par unité de surface (42) de la deuxième portion (32a, 32b) de chaque bonnet (1 2a, 1 2b), pour rendre la troisième portion (34a, 34b) moins extensible transversalement q u e l a deuxième portion (32a, 32b).  7. Bra (10) according to claim 6, characterized in that the third portion (34a, 34b) has a number of meshes per unit area (42) which is less than the number of meshes per unit area (42). ) of the second portion (32a, 32b) of each cup (1 2a, 1 2b), to make the third portion (34a, 34b) less transversely expandable than the second portion (32a, 32b).
8. Soutien-gorge (10) selon les revendications 4 ou 5, et 6 ou 7, caractérisé en ce que chaque portion (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) de chaque bonnet (12a, 12b) est réalisée en tricot selon un type de maille différent.  8. Bra (10) according to claims 4 or 5, and 6 or 7, characterized in that each portion (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) of each cup (12a, 12b) is made of knit according to a different type of mesh.
9. Soutien-gorge (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le raidisseur (20) forme une bande centrale (24) qui relie le premier bonnet (12a) et le second bonnet (12b) entre eux de façon à limiter leur écartement transversal .  9. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stiffener (20) forms a central strip (24) which connects the first cup (12a) and the second cup (12b) between them so as to limit their transverse spacing.
10. Soutien-gorge (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les différentes portions (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) de chaque bonnet (1 2a, 1 2b), le raid isseur (20) et la bande de fixation (14) dorsale sont réalisés en une seule pièce par tricotage circulaire.  10. Bra (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the different portions (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) of each cup (1 2a, 1 2b), the raid isseur (20) and the fastening strip (14) dorsale are made in one piece by circular knitting.
EP13803135.6A 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Knitted bra having variable elasticity Active EP2919601B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP18169311.0A EP3375307B1 (en) 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Knitted bra having variable elasticity

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1260761A FR2997820A1 (en) 2012-11-13 2012-11-13 GLOVES BRISTLE IN A VARIABLE ELASTICITY KNIT
FR1260949A FR2997821B1 (en) 2012-11-13 2012-11-19 GLOVES BRISTLE IN A VARIABLE ELASTICITY KNIT
PCT/FR2013/052722 WO2014076413A1 (en) 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Knitted bra having variable elasticity

Related Child Applications (1)

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EP2919601A1 true EP2919601A1 (en) 2015-09-23
EP2919601B1 EP2919601B1 (en) 2018-05-23

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EP18169311.0A Active EP3375307B1 (en) 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Knitted bra having variable elasticity

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US (1) US9538794B2 (en)
EP (2) EP2919601B1 (en)
CN (1) CN104754968B (en)
BR (1) BR112015006908A2 (en)
CA (1) CA2885319C (en)
ES (2) ES2684555T3 (en)
FR (2) FR2997820A1 (en)
MX (1) MX347338B (en)
WO (1) WO2014076413A1 (en)

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WO2014076413A1 (en) 2014-05-22
CN104754968B (en) 2017-01-11
CA2885319A1 (en) 2014-05-22
EP3375307B1 (en) 2020-05-13
MX2015003839A (en) 2015-07-17
FR2997821B1 (en) 2015-06-05
ES2684555T3 (en) 2018-10-03
FR2997820A1 (en) 2014-05-16
US9538794B2 (en) 2017-01-10
FR2997821A1 (en) 2014-05-16
CA2885319C (en) 2019-08-20
CN104754968A (en) 2015-07-01
ES2801331T3 (en) 2021-01-11
BR112015006908A2 (en) 2017-07-04
EP3375307A1 (en) 2018-09-19
MX347338B (en) 2017-04-24
US20160242472A1 (en) 2016-08-25
EP2919601B1 (en) 2018-05-23

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